Amazing work getting the H3 support finalized! 🥳 So glad you stuck with it and persisted, you really made it so much eaiser for the next H3 user 👏 Thanks again for all the testing and feedback!
Hi Daniel I have everything connected on my wall like @TheOfficialBatteryMan but H1, I am waiting for green light for CHADEMO and LEAF 24 kWh. Can`t wait, checking TH-cam and GitHub every day. How is it going with chademo support ? Can i help you somehow? I exceeded all my options, but can not get this damn thing to work. Kindest Regards Marcin
Awesome work mate. I knew from the last video you would have a few bumps in the road. I work in a garage and done all the EV training so understand the car stuff. The github is great so thank you for highlighting that, will make my project a little easier.
I think it’s a really useful tool for anyone looking to purchase ev batteries or even sell them. All for under £50 and a lead acid battery. Do you like working on the EV side?
@@TheOfficialBatteryMan I love it. I’ve always enjoyed the electrical side of the job. I’ve had a Leaf for a few years that needs the battery reconditioning, but I’m so busy fixing everyone else’s cars! What’s your background?
Could have used an easier inverter, but... going trough the hard work makes it possible for other people to use this inverter. So in the end it's a benefit for the community. So yeah thats great!
Love to know how much this has saved compared to an off the shelf battery storage system, power wall etc? It seems like a hell of a job, gota admire your determination.
This is so awesome! Thanks for taking the time to make this video and for DalasEVRepair and everyone who contributes to projects like this. Battery Man - the MCP2515 board you have in the video, is this the board which worked? I ask because I've been having issues with mine and I've noticed my original one (which I blew up) had a 8Mhz crystal and the others all have 16Mhz... these ones I can't seem to get working. Thanks
I’m glad you’ve enjoyed the video. Honestly, if you’ve ended up with an MCP 2515 and Lily go combination I’m sorry. I’ve had nothing but troubles from them working and then not working. Expect update in the next video with the Stark product. What battery / inverter combo are you using? Have you changed the frequency in the software to 16mhz?
@@TheOfficialBatteryMan I'm using Victron Shunt to Pylontech code from GitHub. Anyway, long story short - the MCP2515 with the 16Mhz crystals DON'T WORK!! I changed the crystal to 8Mhz and it works perfectly... A dive in to the datasheet and the makers of the MPC2515 board with the 16Mhz chip havn't actually changed a couple of the timing caps from the original 8Mhz boards. Very glad you mentioned this board being a problem, I was convinced I was doing something wrong! I'll look forward to seeing what you get upto soon.
So your inverter can handle the 360v leaf ev battery to house hold voltage? The EV voltage is not too high for the inverter? Are you using the PV (solar panels) input of the inverter?
It will work but most likely not needed as we are not working the battery hard. When I have some weather extremes data I will put a video out about it.
@@TheOfficialBatteryMan I'd imagine the bigger problem would be heating the battery when it gets to cold to safely take a charge. Or does it not get that cold there?
Cool stuff! Need a little clarification. I'm in the 48v inverter world, so wondering how you have an EV battery (350-400v?) hooked up. Does your inverter accept high voltages like that or is there some sort of step down going on?
Good question. There are loads of inverters that run at higher voltages between say 200-800v. I didn’t know until a couple of years ago. I’m a big believer in high voltage is better. I’m using 10mm cable to move 17kw
The inverter has a max size based on voltage. The manufacturer only had so many range of size batteries. It will handle the biggest of EV batteries as long as they are under 800v. I think it’s 45kw of PV. Unfortunately I don’t have the space for this much solar. Not unless I persuade my neighbours to use their garden space. 😂
60kWh. I could have chosen a larger pack but it’s really important to me to choose LFP. 2 main reasons. Safety. This is the same sort of technology as in all other home energy storage. Longevity. These packs should handle more cycles
Can anyone help me out, i had to replace my Zappi charger and at the same time i added another powerwall and this time they added the Harvey, But ever since all my solar is bypassing the house and charger and going to the grid , when i plug the car in its taking 7kw from the powerwalls . Does anyone know what is wrong ? The only way i can use my solar is to go self powered every morning then back to grid timed setting in the evening .
It sounds like the CT might not be in the correct place within your installation. I would think it’s normal for the power wall to cover the house load including the charger. You can set up a load of rules through home assistant if you’re that way inclined. When ev charging pause or limit discharging.
@@TheOfficialBatteryMan Hi thank you for a quick reply. i think you are right i haven't had the Myenergy App for that long so i just looked at it and someone else is having the same problems . its the CT settings in the Zappi need to be configured. I'm a bit thick but i will try and play with those settings , many thanks for your help.
@@TheOfficialBatteryMan Yes i shall do , they are quite a large company and i had my 1st powerwall from them with bad after sales service, i wrote to them twice now and they haven't replied to my email, i think i will have to phone them , Thanks again for your help .
@@TheOfficialBatteryMan Basically like yourself I've just had 3 phase installation confirmed. Unlike yourself it's setting me back £22k and that's with me digging the trenching. 30kW export and I'm probably aiming for 60kW peak oif solar panels. Need the battery pack to keep the 30kW constant using the batteries as a buffer and also to keep exporting into the night as much as I can. All very complicated. I have a 3.68kW system up and running on export only as we are off grid otherwise. That runs on 2 x 15kWh 48v Lifepo4 packs. Heat camera is a must and has already saved me from a dodgy cable.
@@CaptainProton1 that’s a pretty hefty sum of solar panels. I wish I could fit a lot more here but everywhere else has shade at least part of the day. I understand what you’re doing. Using battery to soak the load. Have you considered an EV or can you get more money exporting?
I was thinking of getting 2 x Model 3 LR batteries to fit on the floor of my solar shed. Are you relying on the Tesla BMS to do all the balancing and if so how are you monitoring each cell....oh yes I haven't started the vid yet so apologies if already answered :)
Yes. Relying on the Tesla BMS to carry out balancing and the solar inverter is managing the battery based on the parameters the battery is sending it. There is still some real nerdiness to iron out but it works
@@TheOfficialBatteryMan You have me thinking now as I've just built 3 x 48v 15kWh Lifepo4 packs but I hate dealing with the big fat cables. And I'm going to need at least 6 to 9 of these packs to do what I need. Hi voltage seems much simpler and a better grade of inverter with less heat in cables. Hmmmm 30kW export is nothing to a Tesla battery (I have an old Model S85 myself) but I'm a bit concerned on my ability to cause a quick death at that voltage. I could hook up 2 in parallel. Other concern is longevity compared to LFP cells...although my Model S is 10 years old with 198k on the clock with only 12% loss in range. Now you have me thinking .......
Love your and Dalas work!!! I got 80kW 48V system based on Victron.. May i ask if it will be possible to connect different brands of EVbatterys at the same time? If possible im actually think i will sell or trade my current system for something like this And also im really interested in Tesla model S 2018...and if this will be possible to hack in the future. Regards from wet and cold wetern Norway
That’s quite the size for a 48v system. What sort of amps you pulling with that. Or is it more to get you through? Different brands to different battery inputs. Not in parallel or series. I think post 2020 model s is supported in the last few weeks From an oddly sunny UK
Ev batteries tend to have different numbers of series cells or even different chemistries, sometimes between trim levels and model years, so no you can’t parallel them up. You could have multiple inverters though and try to manage them as one - can be easy if you use the same inverters.
@@TheOfficialBatteryMan Its made of 7 pcs 14S Leaf Cells CE marked (guess there is paralell cells in each pack as they are aprox 7KWh each) I also have 248 LEV50 Cells From Mitsubishi divided into 10 packs Guess i tested the total capacity last summer to approx 100kWh But i only run them between 51V-57.5V So Ca 80kWh+ in real life.. One Victron Qattro 10W 240V and one Multiplus 2, 8000W "20kW solar, small hydroturbine 2kW, one M6 Wind turbine (2kW in Storm ...) One 10 kW Diesel Gen And im now in the making of a Wood Gas Generator
@@edc1569 My hope is to use one large inverter and use different brands of batteries to serve the high Voltage input As this will let me buy cheap battery packs as they are availible at scrap yards.. Gues you all know there is aLOT of EVs to be scrapped here in Norway soon(already)
@@TheOfficialBatteryMan every pack got 150A BMS so lets say 150X17=2550A 2550A at nom Voltage 56.8= 144kW Not possible to use all of this, but my Lynx bus bar in and out is limited to 1000A 80V i belive
Hi, I've watched the series and congratulate you on your resourcefulness. The one thing I always wonder when I see things like this is what happens when you go to sell your property. The people purchasing will have to know similar things you do. What sort of documentation have you done for this? Also have yoo done a breakdowneof cost you have incurred?
If we moved all that would be left would be some holes on the wall. A system like this at the development stage and not for the general public. Cost to come In a later video.
@@TheOfficialBatteryMan got that part, What I want to know is what device are you using to charge the 350V EV battery? A high voltage battery charger? Or a high voltage solar charge controller to charge 350V batteries? What are you using to convert grid power to 350VDC to charge the EV battery?
@ a high voltage solar hybrid inverter. I’ve gone for a Fox Ess H3 Pro. Revealed in my video before this one. We did most of the connections in that video
Amazing showcase of technology but I think you’re limited by practicality and regulation. How much are you really saving compared to a ‘branded’ (ie UL-listed in the US) battery? LFP is less than $300 /kWh. Used EV batteries are what, $150-$200 /kWh? And how do you get such a large pack installed, permitted, and insured to power your house for many years? Maybe the USA perspective is too cautionary!
This battery was purchased at around $82 a kilowatt. When you talking 60 kW that’s quite a saving. For me it’s about showcasing what can be done. Proving it can be safe and 2 a high standard.
@ That is a great price per kilowatt-hour! Unfortunately, at least in the USA, this would not be permitted or insured in the majority of places. I can appreciate the ingenuity and showcase of technology.
@ All depends on the local “AHJ” - Authority Having Jurisdiction, aka the building department at a township or city. They all have their own view on solar, batteries, and the National Electric Code. And then you have utilities and interconnection. It’s an ideal system for making solar and batteries seem like a niche, complicated, exotic specialty, instead of an affordable, reliable, democratic norm. :(
Also note, that it works with the inverter you already own. My Huawei works with HV battery, but instead i went with generic LFP and a true hybrid inverter.
I would agree. DO NOT put EV batteries on your house! We’ve quite literally interpreted the CAN data that the manufacturer doesn’t give us, reverse engineered that to allow us to connect batteries that the automotive company’s do not provide CAN data and making them work together. How do you define hack?
Amazing work getting the H3 support finalized! 🥳 So glad you stuck with it and persisted, you really made it so much eaiser for the next H3 user 👏 Thanks again for all the testing and feedback!
Thank you for your time and expertise. I’m glad to have added to your project
Hi Daniel I have everything connected on my wall like @TheOfficialBatteryMan but H1, I am waiting for green light for CHADEMO and LEAF 24 kWh. Can`t wait, checking TH-cam and GitHub every day.
How is it going with chademo support ? Can i help you somehow? I exceeded all my options, but can not get this damn thing to work.
Kindest Regards
Marcin
Makes my 3 off grid solar panels on garage roof with a car battery look like a project for the under 5's. Dala's software looks amazing.
😂😂😂 it’s all good fun
Awesome work mate. I knew from the last video you would have a few bumps in the road. I work in a garage and done all the EV training so understand the car stuff. The github is great so thank you for highlighting that, will make my project a little easier.
I think it’s a really useful tool for anyone looking to purchase ev batteries or even sell them. All for under £50 and a lead acid battery. Do you like working on the EV side?
@@TheOfficialBatteryMan I love it. I’ve always enjoyed the electrical side of the job. I’ve had a Leaf for a few years that needs the battery reconditioning, but I’m so busy fixing everyone else’s cars! What’s your background?
Could have used an easier inverter, but... going trough the hard work makes it possible for other people to use this inverter. So in the end it's a benefit for the community. So yeah thats great!
Tell me about it. I would always recommend an inverter that requires only the lilygo
Another brilliant video. I'm really excited with this project. Good luck!
Thank you. Great to hear you’ve enjoyed. There is definitely more curve balls and adventure to come with this project
Wow hello Dala!
Electronics guy here, maybe I could make you guys a better pcb with two CAN transceivers and that’s happy with wider voltage range, OLED display?
The project actually has an alternative to the lilygo board already called a stark (dual can, CAN-FD, etc).
Yes watch this space
Love to know how much this has saved compared to an off the shelf battery storage system, power wall etc? It seems like a hell of a job, gota admire your determination.
It’s defo not for everyone to take on. But it is on the internet for people’s enjoyment
@@TheOfficialBatteryMan lol totally appeals to the kind of things I do but is it a huge saving? Just wondering
@@thomasbroker69 yes. I have a 55kwh battery for about £7k all in.
@@pumpkinhead456 is that car battery or off the shelf battery price?
Great channel, I have been enjoying your content. Where did you get the Lilygo case?
On Dala's discord. I later moved to this for DIN mounting www.thingiverse.com/thing:6788996
This is so awesome! Thanks for taking the time to make this video and for DalasEVRepair and everyone who contributes to projects like this.
Battery Man - the MCP2515 board you have in the video, is this the board which worked? I ask because I've been having issues with mine and I've noticed my original one (which I blew up) had a 8Mhz crystal and the others all have 16Mhz... these ones I can't seem to get working. Thanks
I’m glad you’ve enjoyed the video. Honestly, if you’ve ended up with an MCP 2515 and Lily go combination I’m sorry. I’ve had nothing but troubles from them working and then not working. Expect update in the next video with the Stark product. What battery / inverter combo are you using? Have you changed the frequency in the software to 16mhz?
@@TheOfficialBatteryMan I'm using Victron Shunt to Pylontech code from GitHub. Anyway, long story short - the MCP2515 with the 16Mhz crystals DON'T WORK!! I changed the crystal to 8Mhz and it works perfectly... A dive in to the datasheet and the makers of the MPC2515 board with the 16Mhz chip havn't actually changed a couple of the timing caps from the original 8Mhz boards.
Very glad you mentioned this board being a problem, I was convinced I was doing something wrong!
I'll look forward to seeing what you get upto soon.
So your inverter can handle the 360v leaf ev battery to house hold voltage? The EV voltage is not too high for the inverter? Are you using the PV (solar panels) input of the inverter?
Yes the inverter can handle a range of batteries from about 250v - 800v. Yes I have a small solar set up from my solar pergola video.
Thanks,
COOP
...
I have a new ev and a project like this might add to my home battery
have you checked that the coolant/cooling will work on the battery when it’s installed vertically - or are you not cooling it?
It will work but most likely not needed as we are not working the battery hard. When I have some weather extremes data I will put a video out about it.
@@TheOfficialBatteryMan off topic for this comment but do you have his discord link btw
@@TheOfficialBatteryMan I'd imagine the bigger problem would be heating the battery when it gets to cold to safely take a charge. Or does it not get that cold there?
@@danp762 yeah cold could be a problem but we’ve hopefully got that covered for a future video
Lol the cooling is just there for fast charging, and heating. In the end with LFP batteries with such a low C rate charging no cooling is needed.
Will you do a step-by-step video of this set up?
Defo will do a video from start to finish
Ooooo exciting. I have not even watched it yet. Just see the thumbnail.
It’s the original master of batteries 😉
Cool stuff! Need a little clarification. I'm in the 48v inverter world, so wondering how you have an EV battery (350-400v?) hooked up. Does your inverter accept high voltages like that or is there some sort of step down going on?
Good question. There are loads of inverters that run at higher voltages between say 200-800v. I didn’t know until a couple of years ago. I’m a big believer in high voltage is better. I’m using 10mm cable to move 17kw
Yea I know the Anker Solix X1 has a battery voltage from 350v to 450v using mc4 connections as battery cables and pv voc of 1000v
Don't the inverter have a max battery size kw you can put to the inverter how much pv can this handle.
The inverter has a max size based on voltage. The manufacturer only had so many range of size batteries. It will handle the biggest of EV batteries as long as they are under 800v.
I think it’s 45kw of PV. Unfortunately I don’t have the space for this much solar. Not unless I persuade my neighbours to use their garden space. 😂
This is wild
US market . Using a Tesla model 3 battery pack what would be the best inverter? Have a 5..3k solar array.
Check out what inverter is on the approved list for US power. Then narrow down from there. Hard for me to know as there are many variables
How many kw is the battery you have
60kWh. I could have chosen a larger pack but it’s really important to me to choose LFP. 2 main reasons. Safety. This is the same sort of technology as in all other home energy storage. Longevity. These packs should handle more cycles
@TheOfficialBatteryMan is that the most kw the inverter can have going in to it and 45 kw of solar?
My Sunsynk 8.8KW inverter has the option to use other batteries (like lead-acid, etc) already built into the firmware...
i Need those socks! :)
This is the future of home batteries
Nice comment
Can anyone help me out, i had to replace my Zappi charger and at the same time i added another powerwall and this time they added the Harvey, But ever since all my solar is bypassing the house and charger and going to the grid , when i plug the car in its taking 7kw from the powerwalls . Does anyone know what is wrong ? The only way i can use my solar is to go self powered every morning then back to grid timed setting in the evening .
It sounds like the CT might not be in the correct place within your installation.
I would think it’s normal for the power wall to cover the house load including the charger. You can set up a load of rules through home assistant if you’re that way inclined. When ev charging pause or limit discharging.
I would recommend contacting your installer. That’s what they are there for any they know your system best
@@TheOfficialBatteryMan Hi thank you for a quick reply. i think you are right i haven't had the Myenergy App for that long so i just looked at it and someone else is having the same problems . its the CT settings in the Zappi need to be configured. I'm a bit thick but i will try and play with those settings , many thanks for your help.
@@TheOfficialBatteryMan Yes i shall do , they are quite a large company and i had my 1st powerwall from them with bad after sales service, i wrote to them twice now and they haven't replied to my email, i think i will have to phone them , Thanks again for your help .
Oh this I am interest in, finding it hard to find 1000v PV input 3 phase inverters that run on 48v batteries
Yeah 48v is great for a certain size but once the KW go up you need higher voltages. Is that to work with existing batteries?
@@TheOfficialBatteryMan Basically like yourself I've just had 3 phase installation confirmed. Unlike yourself it's setting me back £22k and that's with me digging the trenching. 30kW export and I'm probably aiming for 60kW peak oif solar panels. Need the battery pack to keep the 30kW constant using the batteries as a buffer and also to keep exporting into the night as much as I can. All very complicated. I have a 3.68kW system up and running on export only as we are off grid otherwise. That runs on 2 x 15kWh 48v Lifepo4 packs. Heat camera is a must and has already saved me from a dodgy cable.
@@CaptainProton1 that’s a pretty hefty sum of solar panels. I wish I could fit a lot more here but everywhere else has shade at least part of the day. I understand what you’re doing. Using battery to soak the load. Have you considered an EV or can you get more money exporting?
Rocking a Tesla S85 and 15kWh phase change water heater. Ran out of places to store it. Managed 98kWh yesterday but it was a good bright day.
Any one trying to use the Fisker ocean battery that is 100kwh? The company is bankrupt and the cars are going for like $5000... but they're 800v.
That would be awesome. I’m the wrong side of the pond to pick one up by chance. 800v is possible for some of these high voltage inverters
I was thinking of getting 2 x Model 3 LR batteries to fit on the floor of my solar shed. Are you relying on the Tesla BMS to do all the balancing and if so how are you monitoring each cell....oh yes I haven't started the vid yet so apologies if already answered :)
Yes. Relying on the Tesla BMS to carry out balancing and the solar inverter is managing the battery based on the parameters the battery is sending it. There is still some real nerdiness to iron out but it works
@@TheOfficialBatteryMan You have me thinking now as I've just built 3 x 48v 15kWh Lifepo4 packs but I hate dealing with the big fat cables. And I'm going to need at least 6 to 9 of these packs to do what I need. Hi voltage seems much simpler and a better grade of inverter with less heat in cables. Hmmmm 30kW export is nothing to a Tesla battery (I have an old Model S85 myself) but I'm a bit concerned on my ability to cause a quick death at that voltage. I could hook up 2 in parallel. Other concern is longevity compared to LFP cells...although my Model S is 10 years old with 198k on the clock with only 12% loss in range. Now you have me thinking .......
Love your and Dalas work!!!
I got 80kW 48V system based on Victron..
May i ask if it will be possible to connect different brands of EVbatterys at the same time?
If possible im actually think i will sell or trade my current system for something like this
And also im really interested in Tesla model S 2018...and if this will be possible to hack in the future.
Regards from wet and cold wetern Norway
That’s quite the size for a 48v system. What sort of amps you pulling with that. Or is it more to get you through?
Different brands to different battery inputs. Not in parallel or series.
I think post 2020 model s is supported in the last few weeks
From an oddly sunny UK
Ev batteries tend to have different numbers of series cells or even different chemistries, sometimes between trim levels and model years, so no you can’t parallel them up. You could have multiple inverters though and try to manage them as one - can be easy if you use the same inverters.
@@TheOfficialBatteryMan Its made of 7 pcs 14S Leaf Cells CE marked (guess there is paralell cells in each pack as they are aprox 7KWh each)
I also have 248 LEV50 Cells From Mitsubishi divided into 10 packs
Guess i tested the total capacity last summer to approx 100kWh
But i only run them between 51V-57.5V
So Ca 80kWh+ in real life..
One Victron Qattro 10W 240V and one Multiplus 2, 8000W
"20kW solar, small hydroturbine 2kW, one M6 Wind turbine (2kW in Storm ...)
One 10 kW Diesel Gen
And im now in the making of a Wood Gas Generator
@@edc1569 My hope is to use one large inverter and use different brands of batteries to serve the high Voltage input
As this will let me buy cheap battery packs as they are availible at scrap yards..
Gues you all know there is aLOT of EVs to be scrapped here in Norway soon(already)
@@TheOfficialBatteryMan every pack got 150A BMS so lets say 150X17=2550A
2550A at nom Voltage 56.8= 144kW
Not possible to use all of this, but my Lynx bus bar in and out is limited to 1000A 80V i belive
Hi,
I've watched the series and congratulate you on your resourcefulness.
The one thing I always wonder when I see things like this is what happens when you go to sell your property.
The people purchasing will have to know similar things you do.
What sort of documentation have you done for this?
Also have yoo done a breakdowneof cost you have incurred?
If we moved all that would be left would be some holes on the wall. A system like this at the development stage and not for the general public. Cost to come In a later video.
Okay, you take power from the battery into the inverter. That runs your loads. How do you recharge the battery?
Grid and solar. They can of course be fully off grid for those that have the land space
@@TheOfficialBatteryMan got that part, What I want to know is what device are you using to charge the 350V EV battery? A high voltage battery charger? Or a high voltage solar charge controller to charge 350V batteries? What are you using to convert grid power to 350VDC to charge the EV battery?
@ a high voltage solar hybrid inverter. I’ve gone for a Fox Ess H3 Pro. Revealed in my video before this one. We did most of the connections in that video
Amazing showcase of technology but I think you’re limited by practicality and regulation. How much are you really saving compared to a ‘branded’ (ie UL-listed in the US) battery? LFP is less than $300 /kWh. Used EV batteries are what, $150-$200 /kWh? And how do you get such a large pack installed, permitted, and insured to power your house for many years?
Maybe the USA perspective is too cautionary!
This battery was purchased at around $82 a kilowatt. When you talking 60 kW that’s quite a saving. For me it’s about showcasing what can be done. Proving it can be safe and 2 a high standard.
@ That is a great price per kilowatt-hour! Unfortunately, at least in the USA, this would not be permitted or insured in the majority of places. I can appreciate the ingenuity and showcase of technology.
@ I’m not family with regulation in the US. Do you think different states would have different takes on something like this?
@ All depends on the local “AHJ” - Authority Having Jurisdiction, aka the building department at a township or city. They all have their own view on solar, batteries, and the National Electric Code.
And then you have utilities and interconnection.
It’s an ideal system for making solar and batteries seem like a niche, complicated, exotic specialty, instead of an affordable, reliable, democratic norm. :(
Also note, that it works with the inverter you already own. My Huawei works with HV battery, but instead i went with generic LFP and a true hybrid inverter.
Most EV batteries are not suitable for house use...so....and clearly there is no hack here.
I would agree. DO NOT put EV batteries on your house!
We’ve quite literally interpreted the CAN data that the manufacturer doesn’t give us, reverse engineered that to allow us to connect batteries that the automotive company’s do not provide CAN data and making them work together. How do you define hack?