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De nada!! Estoy feliz que te gusta!

Pull up on the tan plastic piece with your finger and thumb and then squeeze in on the center tan piece you just pulled up and that should release the catch and you can remove the harness

That sounds like a pretty competitive quote. What did they charge the hourly labor at?

It is theoretically possible, I think. I don’t really know but I think you would have to fork the ratgdo github and adjust the python programming to accommodate a second door and then adjust the yaml code in ESPHome to point to the pinout you choose for the second door as well as your GitHub repository of the forked ratgdo. As for the circuit board: If you wanted to add the second door on the same circuit as the first door while utilizing a different pin a couple diodes would have to be added between the pinouts in the esp8266 and the transistors and then the proper circuitry would have to be soldered in or created on a pcb board. So I think it is doable, but I truly don’t know for sure. I haven’t looked into that as I haven’t needed it. That is an excellent thought though!!

I’m glad it was helpful!

The way I made mine is the red wire to red (the input into one side (drain) of one transistor and also into the ground (center) of the other transistor). The black wire goes to black which is wired through a resistor to pin 7 on the esp8266. The white wire goes to white and is the ground. The black wire on the GDO is the data from your obstruction sensors and needs to go through a resistor to pin 7 with another resistor between pin 7 and the first resistor returning to ground.

What I don't understand is why the obstruction sensors go off? The Paul Wieland RATGDO does not do this. There appears to be extra chips on the board purchased from him. Wondering if yours doesn't have all the needed chips?

I have the yellow learn button and only built mine exactly as shown in the video and it works flawlessly

Thank you for watching!! I did have some help with recording for most of it. Let me know if there are other videos you want to see me do.

In my case my phone was all I had while working on the vehicle and the best way to hold the phone so I could sit precariously in the engine compartment was to hold it vertically. To keep the continuity of the video I recorded the video’s entirety vertically.

I am using ESPHome inside HA and haven’t done any scripting for the board. I have only edited the yaml file in ESPHome. I have not tried to integrate it through Homekit. You might reach out to the Home Assistant community on Discord. I will try to do some searching as well.

Thanks for responding back. I found it. I have to use the cover.toggle call service and then pass at the entity name. I was just trying the entity name or device with wish then toggle method but that's not valid. Thanks again

It knows based on the reed switch I installed on the door. It knows the state of the switch and therefore the state of the door. That gets passed through to Home Assistant

That clip shouldn’t be important for the ground wire to function if your ground wire is in good shape and where it connects to the battery and Car are good connections. I have had to replace the entire fuse block that attaches to the top of the battery once already. You may check that setup to see if it is in need of repair or replacement. Also make sure you don’t have any corrosion in your battery terminals, relays, or wires at the starter.

Are you asking about the RATGDO 2.5i board? If so, I have nothing to do with that project and can’t be of any assistance on troubleshooting their product. From what I have seen at a quick glance they have an integrated esp8266 chip on that board and I don’t know if they have a boot button built in. You may have to ground a particular pin, but I don’t know exactly which pin that is. It might be labeled as RST, but you will have to confirm with the RATGDO group to ensure you do it correctly

I don’t recall off the top of my head but it looks to be around an 11mm. That should be a good starting point to put it on the bolt and see if it works and adjust the size accordingly

I have not seen anything for tasmota on this project

The drain is the left side of each mosfet, correct. That is how they are set up. The red wire feeds into the Drain (left) on one transistor and the Ground(center) on the other with the Source(right) to ground on both and the Ground(center) inputs from D1 to one transistor and the Drain(left) output from the other transistor to D2.

@@thedaddyshow01 makes sense, at around the 18:00 min mark in the video you say the drain is the right side post. I got a bit confused by that, maybe add something so others don't get tripped up by it. Great video otherwise! thanks

Thank you for the heads up! I appreciate it. I’ll look into adjusting or notating it.

The substitutions allow you to dictate what each pinout will do. It also allows you to further define your wifi and/or api information. However, if the default setup is working for you with no undesired performance then that will work.

That is absolutely true!! I’ve been messing with Home Assistant for a little over a year and I have learned so much!! That’s what makes it fun for me. It would be boring if there were no opportunities to learn. I think that’s what a lot of the younger generation is missing these days. Sometimes frustration is what makes the successful outcome more satisfying

I am using Tasmota on this one. It is my first time using it but I’ve had zero issues.

That’s an excellent way to set that up. I will take a deeper look at that

@@thedaddyshow01 when done correctly the icons automatically update for all 5 states. You can go from seeing the icon for a closed door to the up arrow icon indicating movement followed by an icon for an open door. I really like being able to alert on fail to close because I can just drive away without looking and if it fails to close I get alerts. The extra states allow for more intelligence in the automations.

I honestly don’t know. If the craftsman uses the same logic in their board then it theoretically should but I truly don’t know. I’ll do some research and let you know what I find.

The craftsman purple button does not use encrypted signal between the wall push button and the opener. Therefore you just need to short the wires to activate the motor. This ratgdo has some support for that style device but it’s not the primary target audience.

You would benefit, in part, then from my other myQ workaround video using a shelly1 relay. You just wont need to solder inside the wall-mounted button and can just attach everything at the opener it sounds like. myQ Workaround | Garage door openner | Shelly 1 | Home Assistant th-cam.com/video/H3tFiPtltbM/w-d-xo.html

@@thedaddyshow01 thank you all for the help

You are most welcome! I hope the other video was helpful.

Im only 5’8” so that helps a lot!!

I laid down some towels and lay down over the top of the engine, using a stepstool to do that (2014 Yukon).

I used the firmware available on the ratgdo website

I will get you added!!

You are a winner of the giveaway! email me at the1daddyshow@gmail.com with your name and address so I can get a board sent out to you!

I think it took me between 1 and 2 hours. I want to say 1 hour, but since I was recording I really didn’t pay attention to the time and I don’t recall how long it took. It wasn’t too long though

ESPHome is awesome. It will pick it up in Home Assistant. I will release a video on that part in the near future. If you flash a chip yourself you will have to edit the yaml in ESPHome before it is fully ready.

@@thedaddyshow01 the chip your selling is already flashed, right?

Yes, that is correct. I am flashing it with ESPHome but it can be flashed with MQTT. The ones I am flashing with ESPHome have the yaml code corrected already. @@DaveHenning

Video about the software side is forthcoming and will hopefully be done before the weekend is over.

The giveaway is for my version. Just subscribe and like the video and I will get you entered!

I sure will

I sure will!

You are a winner of the giveaway! email me at the1daddyshow@gmail.com with your name and address so I can get a board sent out to you!

I know you have not mentioned it but is a casing for this an option? Or suggestions of keeping it getting dusty in the garage. Do you just leave this inside the white plastic cover where you pull back to replace the lightbulb of the garage door opener?

I do not have a cover as of now. If there is enough demand/support I plan to get a pcb put together and a case as well. Right now, however, there is no case or cover. I currently have mine (the first one built) set in side the garage door opener light cover.

Would like to be entered in give away, thank you

Make sure you are subscribed and like the video and I will get you entered

I can certainly add you to the giveaway drawing if you have subscribed and liked. As for selling some: we can certainly discuss that was well, especially if you are wanting them before I complete the drawing.

You are a winner of the giveaway! email me at the1daddyshow@gmail.com with your name and address so I can get a board sent out to you!

Glad to hear it! I will enter you in the drawing!!

Awesome! Please do let me know how it goes!

I used 2n3904 that I had , but it failed, i have ordered 2n7000 hope that will solve, I was referring 1 Gate 2 Source and 3 drain.

⁠@@anufuntimethat sounds good! I haven’t had any issues so far. The 2n7000’s worked right off the bat.

@@thedaddyshow01 I see you are selling the board do you ship it to Canada? how much it may cost? Can you also add flashing video as this device requires additional steps to add into HA

I do plan to make a video on flashing and setting up in Home Assistant. Have you used ESPHome inside Home Assistant before? I am selling boards and have a link to order those. I have to find out what it costs to ship to Canada. Email me at the1daddyshow@gmail.com and we can discuss further.

We can definitely discuss that!

Glad to hear it! Make sure you are subscribed and I will enter you in the drawing!

You are a winner of the giveaway! email me at the1daddyshow@gmail.com with your name and address so I can get a board sent out to you!

That is an excellent question! One to which I do not know the answer for certain. I set mine up via ESPHome but it can be done via MQTT. I would recommend checking the ratgdo documentation. I do not know much about Google Home or Alexa. I have neither.

​@@thedaddyshow01 Do you use any home assistant or just ESP Home for the ESP Board projects.

I use Home Assistant

It wont natively work with alexa, but Home Assistant can be a bridge to alexa and google home

Tim, thank you for the response! I’m still working on google assistant setup myself.

You are welcome! I’m glad it solved your problem!!

Very true! If I can start making money on my videos, I will do that for sure!!

Well said! I appreciate your candor. I love all the suggestions so far. I will be working to make some changes in the future and I’ll upload an updated video. You are correct, I did what I could with the current budget and supplies on hand and made it work as-is for now. Thank you for the sentiment!

I’m happy it helped!

I will look into that!

I have looked into the ratgdo. I appreciate you pointing that out. I will have a video coming shortly on my findings and potentially an install video

Which remote are you speaking of? I still have to have power to the shelly so I’m curious because running no wires would be awesome!

@@thedaddyshow01 open up the remote that came with your garage door opener. Solder the two leads from the Shelly to the button of the remote. To power the Shelly cut a computer power cord and wire it in. Find any open outlet in the garage and plug in.

This would ultimately be the same as what I did only it would use a remote instead of the button. But I do like what you are saying. I will have an updated video coming shortly with some new information and a possible better way to make it work!

I got it either at Oreillys or Auto Zone. You may price it at Napa or another preferred auto parts store

This video was amazing… I reached the starter but my bolts holding it in place are TOUGH haha but thanks again this vid saved my life

No problem! I’m glad it was helpful.

@@thedaddyshow01when removing the transmission dip stick how did you unplug the black pieces that were connected to it

Do you mean the plastic clips that hold wires? If that’s what you mean i usually just use a pair of pliers on the back side to squeeze it and I gently pry with a screwdriver on the other side to pop it out.

I don’t recall exactly but it was about an hour or so.

I’m glad you found the video helpful! Let me know if you run into any issues

If you are asking which cylinder is number 4; according to a Nissan Mechanic they are numbered 2,4,6 across the front and 1,3,5 across the back starting with 2 being on the passenger side and 6 toward the driver side and 1 toward the passenger side and 5 toward the driver side.

Thank you! I threw it together a while back. I’m glad to hear someone likes it!

Thank you for the thoughtful reply! I try to keep it simple and thorough. I think most people can fix their own vehicles. I think some are just afraid they don’t know the steps and I’m trying to change that. Let me know if there are other areas of repair you want to see.

That they are! I had an 06 Impala and had to detach the too motor mount and roll the engine forward in the car to get to the rear plugs.