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I have a couple of shorts on axes th-cam.com/video/6eQkjRZJ21A/w-d-xo.htmlsi=HJTOqMOSE7YsirTv

I would adjust to 20-24 degrees. I'd start with a 120 grit and then go 200 then finish at 400 or 600.

@@sharpenrightservicesllc wOW I WAS NOT EXPECTING AN ANSWER SO RAPIDLY THANK YOU VERY MUCH AND WILL WATCH YOU LING VIDEO AFTER MUNCH! sry caps and again big Thanks God Bless! Frank from the deep North!

Yes you cannot leave any metal in Simple green long term.

I got the 3L just for shears……I had one a couple years back using for both but the clipper blades were always so nasty that I was constantly changing the solution because it got so dirty so fast. I can keep the parts washer cleaner since it has a filter. I hope that makes sense. I’m constantly trying new processes and changing equipment.

Thank u

Thanks for watching and participating.....it is appreciated.

That would work!

16” plate

th-cam.com/video/Icy6ahjpztQ/w-d-xo.htmlsi=IWPIas0MsTLCHBM3

Thanks!

@@sharpenrightservicesllc your welcome!

Thank you very much!

I use the flat test string first and I buy thick faux fur from Hobby Lobby.

Thanks for watching.

Pittsburg Kansas. What machine are you using? Edge leading or trailing? Thanks

$10

Thanks for watching. I would only start with 80 microns if the shears had significant damage where I needed to take a large amount of material off. This was not the case at all. 80 micron is very aggressive to use and removes a lot of material very quickly and heats the blade up dramatically. The more material we take off of a shear the more life we take off the shear.

@@sharpenrightservicesllc thank u

@@sharpenrightservicesllc I was trained to start at the 80 and work down. I have some hairdressing and dog grooming scissors to do next week so will give it a go. Thank u again

Keep in mind 80 microns is about 220 grit. If a shear is just dull and needs a fresh edge. Is 220 grit needed to sharpen it? If you were sharpening a kitchen knife would you start with a 220 grit whetstone?

AMK-75 from Amktactical.com

AMK-75 from Amktactical.com

I believe so but you need to contact the manufacturer….his information is in the description. This is not my product.

@@sharpenrightservicesllc thanks, I did that the other day but haven't received a reply from him yet.

Check out this guy....I think he makes something similar and may know .www.youtube.com/@SharperByMichael

No you want a clean plate prior to recharging. Remove all the old grit that contains metal from sharpening the blades. This will extend the life of your plate and better cutting blades.

@@sharpenrightservicesllc I’m sorry, I meant while in the process of charging and I’m at the part where I’m adding grit to the adhesive but see that too much was applied…can the excess be wiped off with a shop towel or blown off with a blower?

No don't wipe it off. Just rub as much into the plate as you can and move on. The excess will come off when sharpening. It's an art that takes time to master to get an even application. The Edge Pro has some good videos also.

Perfect!

I like manually

Don't take my videos as gospel. There is a lot of great content here on TH-cam and lots of great techniques and equipment. I watch a ton of videos also and I seem to always learn a new or better procedure. I do appreciate you watching my content and the positivity of your comments!

You're welcome!

I don't have a set routine. Depends on the edge. These knives were all pretty beat up so I started with a well worn 3M Cubitron 120, then used a 400 and 600 Trizact. Thanks for watching!

Keep in mind all of my belts are well used. I do 120 Cubitron, then 400, 600....sometimes 1200 Trizact then felt to remove burr followed by a leather strop. I use a piece of leather and a scotch bright pad to remove the burr often. There are lots of ways too sharpen. Talking to the customer is what steers my procedure if that makes sense? I don't have a set procedure.

Thanks for watching. I would like to get a good camera system and mounts. This channel is a work in progress. 🤣

@@sharpenrightservicesllc I'm just starting out now with my business. I cant afford the Twice As Sharp. I bought a bunch of old scissors and will try to sharpen them on a horizonal wet wheel to see if possible.

My advice is wait until you can get a TAS or even a Tormek. The Tormek is not idea for scissors but better than trying free hand in my opinion. Guard your reputation starting out. If you do one poorly sharpened scissor and a customer talks smack to anyone you are screwed. Few people will tell what a great job you did but one bad job and they will tell everyone. I just kid knives for the first few years of my business and built up a great reputation and clientele.

@@sharpenrightservicesllc I have a WEN coming in and a bunch of old scissors to practice on. I am going to go slow with this. Thanks!

Thats a good machine and you can do a good job with knives, scissors, chisels. The Tormek and Wen are just slow. I started with a Tormek and made great money for 3 years just doing knives and scissors. I save and bought better equipment as I went along. If I find something that works better I buy it. Next year will be my 10th year and I'm just now starting to make good steady money. Good luck to you!

Yes I have a TH-cam video on here somewhere 🤪

wolffindustries.com/products/white-ceramic-hone?_pos=1&_sid=69443fd3e&_ss=r

That’s just what I had handy…..any stone will work on the burr.

Sadly no. I used a Tormek for a few years and it took too long to set up and get the correct angle and create a crisp cut especially on high quality sewing scissors. In my opinion the TAS is the best machine for scissors. If I find a better machine I will buy it.

The machine has an arm and a clamp. You can see the machine at Wolffindustries.com it is a Hira To

That way they can sell a new and improved version 🤪

In real time it was just over 3 minutes. Thanks for watching!

No, I don’t put any compound on this belt because then it flattens it out. I want the fibers to stand up as much as possible to grab the burr. sometimes I’ll take a wire brush and use it on it

Thanks for watching!

There is no throttle. The engine adjust to the electrical load. You can learn all about these generators on the Duromax TH-cam channel and there is also a good Facebook page with lots of great information.

Probably 50/50…..salons are generally all convex and most dog groomers are beveled it would seem.

$10 per pair

I like that idea a lot. Might take me some time to get that done

Norton Combination Water Stones 4000/8000 Grit Naniwa S2 Super Stone 12000 Grit All from SharpeningSupplies.com I hope that helps you. Thanks for watching!

I’m not sure I know what the difference in the packages are?

@sharpenrightservicesllc this package has Household Scissors Industrial Shears Fabric Scissors Animal Grooming Shears Convex Beauty Shears

My personal opinion is that a TAS is not the proper equipment to sharpen pet grooming, barber or salon shears.

Call Wolff and talk to Joe and glen they will take care of you and yes the twice as sharp is the way to go.

There are lots of sources on the internet. Here is one: sharpeningmadeeasy.com/Scissorangles.htm The key to sharpening any scissor is to match the factory edge angle. That is where the Sharpie and a scratch test comes in and that is the same on whatever sharpening equipment you use. Now the bad thing is if the previous sharpener had ignored trying to mimic the factory edge and just grinds a new flat edge. Sometimes you can fix that and sometimes you cannot. I have sharpened a lot of scissors in 9 years and I will say the "factory edge angles" aren't always as stated on the internet. All I care about is getting as close to the factory edge as I can. If they have never been sharpened before I want to copy the edge angle. If they have been sharpened before I want to get back to as close to the factory specifications as I can. Ultimately you want whatever scissors you are sharpening to cut at least as well as when they were new. The customer will tell you very quickly if you have done a good job.😀 I hope this makes sense?

@@sharpenrightservicesllc Thank you! It makes absolutely wonderful sense. I guess that's what I was inquiring about, how do you know what the factory angles are, when they've been changed by someone in the past? For instance, how do you tell the difference between fabric shears and knife edge shears? Also, for instance, I have a couple sets of old Wiss kitchen shears from different places that are all sharpened at 10° per side, but on your chart and on the other reference material I've seen, they're listed at closer to 30° per side. When sharpened at 30° they cut, but not exceptionally well.. would you try changing the angle? Do you ever put "serrations/corrugations" back into kitchen shears?

@bronzewarner2689 Sadly so many sharpeners dont understand why a pair of scissors have a specific edge angle and they think any angle will do and if they cut they think that is fine. Sometimes you can lower the angle and sometimes back to where the factory angle should be but a lot of times you cannot because you just have to take off too much material to get there. There is no easy answer. Most kitchen shears with serrations you do not need to remove the serration. If you look carefully the edge is actually a sharp beveled edge and the serrations are on the side of the blade to hold chicken in place as the edge cuts. So you generally do not need to remove the serrations off to get most kitchen shears to cut well.

Ha...not at all. I like the little machine but I only use it once in a while. Thanks for watching though. Belts are from Cliff Curry at Currycustomcutlry.com I use only 3M belts.

I like using a piece of leather for small thin burrs.

Thanks for watching and subscribing. I'm an apprentice at sharpening at this point. Don't take my videos as tutorials. There are a lot a lot better training videos out there. I'm learning to make TH-cam videos on here. :-)

No screw on these scissors ✂️

@@sharpenrightservicesllc then it was definitely the sharpening.

th-cam.com/video/9BUMp1NcVdI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=tOm1qMrGvadMyzFk