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Glad you found it, if you have any questions or in need of clarification just let me know

@ trying to find the hung weight roughly of a plate set not already drilled or just stick with the 2 holes. I see people doing things but never the original balance?

@@rogerstafford-wakeinc.2088 Any questions just ask. Just to get it out of the way, there is no way to attach set "hung weight" values to the cranks. There’s no way to set fixed values for cranks. Even when mass is removed via drilled holes instead of counterweights, each crank is unique due to variations in web thickness, hole size, and placement. For example, I’ve had cranks with web thicknesses ranging from 15.5mm, 15.8mm, 17mm, 18.8mm and 19.3mm. The 18.8mm and 19.3mm would be described as a "19mm thick crank" but the web difference is due to more beveling on one, thus removing mass. The placement of the holes also matters; too high or low on the web can affect balance. I've had two cranks that looked identical, but one had a balance factor of 15%-20% while the other was slightly higher. These small differences are why balance must be measured individually for each crank.

This comment is so retarded I can't even dumb down my response.

If you're incapable of replacing bearings or seals and hide under the guise it's easier to spend money on a new engine, that isn't a flex to avoid you're incapable of doing these things. That's like saying, it's easier to buy a new head because you don't know how to remove a spark plug.

No sir

😂

No problem sir

aw nvm lol

@@GasBikeFanatics I'm still trying to figure out what you're referring to

Who said anything about power? I know how to install seals, I've been doing them for a long time. If you can somehow install a seal incorrectly you shouldn't even be allowed to ride a bicycle.

@@MikeNBikes sorry should said pressure. Autocorrect. It's easy to you just dislodge the inner ring.

I just looked at your video. That is completely normal. You should only be concerned if you're holding the crank in your hand and pull up on he conrod as you are. If you're able to pull up and down on the conrod, you have an issue. It's difficult to do in the case because naturally the crank will want to spin Question. Where exactly did you get that engine from? I need a bottom end with that crank.

@@MikeNBikes there is no up and down play. I got it from ebay. Some one told me that it has to much side to side play

@@Potato37184 Could you link me to the exact listing? Because that looks to be a good crank Do not listen to them. I promise you, all cranks have side to side play which is normal. Factor in heat tolerances as metal expands. If you had up and down play I would be concerned. Anyone who is telling you its an issue most likely has either not split a case, or handled many cranks and is giving you bad advice.

@@MikeNBikes youtube doesnt let me post links.. my comment gets deleted after i have a Link in my comment. All i can say that it is a cheap china engine

@@MikeNBikes and how much rpm can the wristpin bearing and wristpin clips hold befor blow up?

Nope, that is just from manufacturing. The way it is placed will not affect how the float works

Thanks for reminding me to do an update. Stay clear of this clutch basket, it looks nice at first but it isn't. To answer your question, a 6809-ZZ bearing is pressed onto it. The bearings ID is 45mm which is slightly smaller than the baskets OD, so either they press it on with great force or they're shaved down slightly. The problem is during engagement and disengagement the basket doesn't stay "whole" stick with the normal ones

You're still unable to explain the mathematics other than repeating what you're saying as the explanation of what you're saying

lol just easier to buy a new axle, but it was toast unfortunately

I bought their 48mm to "hose" flange adapters and it did not end well. Really the biggest issue was it lacks surface area for the hose to grab properly, and while it isn't a deal breaker, it does remove one more vulnerability for an air leak