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They are all different. I believe I did say them in the video but I just looked them up again in my book. The front carburetor is 7/8 turns out on the Low and 1 1/4 turns out on the high The center carburetor is 7/8 turns out on the Low and 1 1/8 turns out on the high. The rear carburetor (with the accelerator pump) is 1 1/8 turn out on Low and 1 3/8 turns out in the high speed jet.

The weather has been exciting tonight! I'm in Massachusetts. I haven't done much with it in a bit but intend on getting back to it this Fall!

Yes you do. When the actuators are removed, it's basically an open port to where the transmission shift forks are on the shaft. It's important to clean and lube them as they may be getting stuck. Mine was great for a month and then I ended up replacing the actuators with aftermarket ones from Amazon.

Thank you very much!! I appreciate that!

This is true, but that's no fun 😂 Thanks

Where is your idle/air mixture screw set to? I believe it should be at 3/4 turns out, but that is a guideline of course. You can adjust it wherever as needed, but if you adjust it a lot and make it real rich and/or lean you could foul a spark plug doing so (possibly). I am leaning more toward your throttle slide/needle though. Make sure it's installed properly and the throttle cable has free play. I'd start there anyhow

@@wickedrepairs8527 I started at 3/4 then 1 full tuen then 1 1/4. No change. Throttle seems to be free.

Yeah, sometimes the microfiche diagrams are not the best. They orient them different than they actually are. I appreciate you coming by and for commenting, glad it was helpful!

Absolutely! Thank you, I appreciate you leaving a comment! I'll be in the tent next week, can't wait! My oldest son turns 11 and he wants to go camping! 👍 Win win for everyone 🤣

A manual should not have these actuators. If you are having issues with shifting in a manual, most likely it's a clutch issue. Could be something simple like clutch fluid or a master cylinder.

@@wickedrepairs8527 ok thanks .

@lindsaykrug1510 I do not. It's packed away at the moment or I'd measure. I'd say a rough measurement would be 8 ft or so.

I will have to check that out for you. Honestly have worked on hundreds or these but haven't touched one in a while at the same time. As far as I remember they come off the cooler and down along the side of the motor I believe. I may have a manual and if so I'll get back to you on what I see

@@jbostephens absolutely! 👊

Thats excellent!! I'm glad it worked out for you! 216,000 is great! Good luck and I appreciate your comment!

Thank you! Hope you have a great day!

Yes indeed!

I would start by swapping your actuators and see if the code changes and follows to clutch actuator A. If you haven't seen my other video on how to clean the ports and lube the shift shaft, check it out. Do that when you switch the actuators and that may even fix it. At least temporarily and will tell you if you should replace the actuators. Let me know what happens! Definitely don't bring it in yet for a transmission issue!

On my second oil change it won’t stay running by itself self but everytime I force it seems to wanna run more and more added some sea foam to the fuel also it’s white smoking quite a bit trying to clean up all the old lubrication on it Inside and out.

Yes, I would definitely do it, just incase. If the oil is milky, either it has water in it, or it can be from moisture from sitting as well. I would replace the spark plugs as they can foul easily from the fogging oil, provided it was winterized properly. The oil will always read low in them from sitting. Always be aware of that. Yamaha states, that as long as it's on the tip of the lipstick a half inch, it's good!! If the oil level is 3/4 up the hash marks or more when cold, it's technically overfilled! You need to leave plenty of room for expansion.

@@wickedrepairs8527 there’s a leaking of oil on the right side of the engine just havnt found where hard to see

Yeah that can be tough. You have to use mirrors to see like that usually.

I would swap the lower and upper and see if the code follows to the other actuator. If so, then I would get new actuators. Mine from Amazon have been fine and much cheaper than Ford! When you have the actuators out, make sure to clean the ports with brake cleaner, spray some wd40 or penetrating lubricant into the ports and also put a little grease on the new actuators around the gear and casing to keep moisture from getting into the transmission. It's basically an open port. If it's not better, then it may be either an internal issue with the transmission, or the transmission control module.

@@wickedrepairs8527 Thank you! When I switched them the code followed. I may just order 2 new ones on Amazon. Can you post the link?

@Snowbunny98 ill see if I can find the link, I thought I had it pinned. Definitely have it in a few comment sections 😆 If it followed, it's 99% most likely the actuators. Definitely get both, great idea!

@Snowbunny98 AE8Z-7C604-A Automatic Transmission Clutch Actuator Compatibile with 2012-2017 Ford Focus SE SEL, 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 Ford Fiesta Trans Clutch Actuator - Replace Ford AE8Z7C604A, AE8Z7C604 a.co/d/bya4XSE 👍

@@wickedrepairs8527 If I order 2, does it matter which one goes in A and B?

🤣 that's awesome! Haven't heard of that working! I like it! Old school like tapping a starter 😆

Absolutely!! I appreciate your comment and coming by!

Yes!! Buying the hub assembly is so much easier! 🤣 Thank you, I appreciate that! 👊

😆 you can trust replacing just th3 diaphragm, which is usually the culprit, or just get a new carburetor. They are pretty cheap usually

@@wickedrepairs8527 ok I will probably just replace it thanks for the advice I appreciate it

@Riggons absolutely!! Good luck!

@@wickedrepairs8527 thank you

What?

Awesome! youre welcome! Happy 4th!

@mandybrown7758 thanks so much, I really appreciate that I hope you haveam a get day!!

It's going excellent! Kids were swimming in it 2 days ago. I was a bit late openening it up for the season but it's been up since day 1 and holding strong! We are loving it

@@wickedrepairs8527 yay I'm so glad! We are enjoying our Intex! Oddly enough ours got no dirt and it's crystal clear STILL since the day I set it up!

@weedlebunz that is fantastic! We keep a rinse bucket for feet by the stairs to help with any dirt and grass. I'm glad yours is going so well! Next year I will be building a deck around a portion of it. Crystal clear is great!

Thank you very much for that!! I really appreciate your kind words and happy to help! You're welcome!

If they are saying it's necessary to replace the shift forks then that price is about average. It is a big job, but I was told the same roughly and had replaced the actuators myself and cleaned and lubed the shift shafts and forks through the actuator ports and that got my car up an running no problem. Cost me less than $100 for the actuators on Amazon and about $12 of brake cleaner and WD40. Only took about 20 minutes time also.

It is a keihin factory carburetor from yamaha that comes on this machine. I do believe that it is a fuel screw. I remember at one point speaking with Yamaha about it and they said it is a fuel screw. On the motor side it's always a fuel screw and on the intake side it's an air screw. I do know these machines pretty well. I was a gold certified yamaha technician for 20 years. These carburetors come so lean, but usually adjusting the screw little by little helps. How long as it been doing this? Just wondering if you have checked the valve adjustment at all? The air filter is clean and lubed with air filter oil? I'm assuming it's a foam filter and not paper. Make sure the throttle cable is adjusted properly too. Just thinking of some stuff, you may have done all of these already 😆

@@wickedrepairs8527 since brand new. We will just live with it. It needs an accelerator pump ha. And the air screw thing on the backside isn't ALWAYS the case... I'll bet you five bucks that's an air screw lol. Even a gold 20 year mechanic can't know EVERYTHING.. especially when there's a thousand videos and websites out there saying that has to be a fuel screw. I've had this carburetor apart so many times it's not even funny i have carb kits from Arctic Cat, ebay, PZ19 carbs, like 12 throttle needles and every size jet 10 above 10 below, emulsion tubes with bigger/ more holes, electric choke, that's how I figured out the air screw fuel screw thing. Trying to troubleshoot why the hell this thing sputters when you crack the throttle. Ive traced the paths of every hole 17 times lol. Every video, except like 2, says that on that side it has to be a fuel screw, but it doesn't look like any fuel screws. It's just on the "suction" side instead of the other side- I know it's back assward, But there's a pilot air hole on the intake side and if you take the float bowl cover off and spray through you can see where everything goes, the screw doesn't contact any fuel or mixed air fuel. That is why it's not a needle and it's a flat blunt screw. The dealer had this thing for a whole month, it does have a new carb They threw on every part from another machine- I'm talking full main wiring harness, ignition coil, ais pump, pretty much everything and couldn't figure it out and just said these small carbs are finicky. It runs good until the automatic enricher shuts off, heck it always runs good if you just come to a stop wait 3 seconds and punch it fast it'll cough, sometimes die. and I have completely plugged off the enricher hole, but if I put richer jets in it just sputters at the top end. Also yes valve clearance is spot on, compression is 205 psi. I just put a uni filter in there and some uni extra vents on the cover. It's made by Kymco

I can find a carburetor manual online for a Honda CRF 50 with a similar Keihin carb, but it won't let me post it here lol. It's an air screw on the engine side of the slide. That's all I can find but alot of these factory Keihins are backwards. And you probably don't give a shit anyways lol.

@JrodBooya no. I do care 😆 Anything educational I'm all for! It definitely seems like an air screw, just doesn't make sense with the location. I am definitely going to check. I even thing I have a service manual for one. I have a ton of them. The first shop I worked at closed as the owner retired and I got a ton of manuals and tools from him.

@@wickedrepairs8527 the process is the same turning it until it idles highest its just backwards- in is rich. And they both change the mixture ratio lol I run it only 1/2 to 3/4 turns out so it idles rich. This helps with the lean bog when stabbing the throttle fast. Its a 2022 model its been almost 2 years since i crackheaded out on it trying to get it to run like it's EFI, so it's not fresh in my mind plus I'm burnt lol but I am 100% positive about the air screw thing. Its a Keihin PTE i believe, which as far as i found is just a name brand disposable carb for factory cheap machines. Keihin doesn't have it on any of their websites or parts for that model specifically. The extra UNI air box vents actually make it a little lean popping at 1/3 throttle now. I didn't think they would do anything but I'll probably try a bigger pilot again and lower the needle clip and see if either helps. The bigger pilots before would make it sound and run rich. It actually runs perfect the way it was stock, besides fast stabbing the throttle once in a while and bogging or dying out. Can't have it dying out if my kid is trying to cross a road! Ok I'm done being a chatty Cathy now 👍

I did not, but I also have not finished it! I got super busy and put it on the back burner. I have been coaching 2 soccer teams for my kids for a couple seasons now but I do intend in getting back in there! I would love to finish it up. We never use our bathroom in the camper, so much plan is to make it into a pantry/storage closet. We always camp at places with bathrooms so we don't really need it. I appreciate you watching and I will get some stuff done in there asap!!

Oh yeah! Same here 😆 rags definitely help it but it's fun to see it blow out everywhere 🤣

What about if doesnt turn on it crancks and sounds like wants to but just doesn’t turn on

@rosendocanto9896 the 3 things you need most are spark, fuel, and compression. I would check spark first, if that's good, check to see if you can spray some carburetor cleaner (or starter fluid or fogging oil) into the intake and crank it over. If it doesn't start or try to almost start, then check your engine compression. Engine compression should be 125psi on all 3 cylinders. At least 120, 100 minimum to be able to start.

@@wickedrepairs8527 i order a engine compresson should be coming tomorrow so ill check engine compression and spark but if the engine compression low what can i do

@@wickedrepairs8527 i should be getting my air engine compressor and spark plugs tomorrow so ill let you know in 2 days how it goes but if i dont have enough pressure what can i do?

Yes, that's correct

2PCS AE8Z-7C604-A Automatic Transmission Clutch Actuator A and B for 2012-2017 Ford Focus SE SEL, 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 Ford Fiesta Trans Clutch Actuator Replaces Ford AE8Z7C604A, AE8Z7C604 a.co/d/dyVIzdV This should bring you there.

@@wickedrepairs8527 thank you!! And have you had anymore problems since you've replaced them?

@BIGMICHlarryoover you're welcome! I haven't had any issues until last week. My car is currently an anchor in my driveway! It's been over 1.5 years and about 20,000 miles driven daily and a few decent sized road trips. I pucked up my kids from school. Got home, 10 minutes later my wife went to take it to the store, and it wouldn't start in my driveway. Communication lost with TCM (transmission control module) and it said hill assist start not available. That's it, it's been sitting now and I have to figure out what is going on. I may make a call to my Ford dealer. I bought this car brand new off the showroom floor and had the TCM replaced at 16,000 miles because it failed. Sucks pretty bad!

@@wickedrepairs8527 that's how I feel about mine it's been a great car untill this happened. But thankfully I got the parts ordered and they have arrived today, so either today or tomorrow I'm gonna replace them and go from their. And now two things does it matter which clutch actuator is which? I'm assuming it doesn't, and two I've read just about almost every online forum I've found about the transmission reset sequence does it matter if you reset it or not? I've read posts where people has just replaced the actuators and just got in and drove the car without resetting the transmission and others have so I'm kinda of 50 50 on it. And I'm sorry I'm hoping whatever happened to you car is an easy fix, if possible I'd like to be kept updated in the future in case I run into the same problem in the future.

Same here! Never had that happen until this vehicle!

Yes that is correct! That's never good to have to take out a grinder or cut off tool to have to do that! Makes a 10 minute job a 30 minute process!

No thank you. I do appreciate it, it is a machine I was doing repairs on for someone else.

Yes, I could absolutely see that happening. I would try a 'wire wiggle' test to see if there's a broken wire or something going on. Check your grounds of course too, grounds are the most common issue with electrical components. I would start the bike and just sit it at idle and start wiggling the ignition wires, regulator wires, and of just make sure your battery terminals are tight. Sounds like ignition related but you definitely want to diagnose it and check things to make it so your not just throwing parts at it.

Thx

Thank you very much! At first I did not have the rain fly on it and that will let a ton of sun in, and rain of course. It is all attached and sealed 👍 No worries there. The bottom is waterproof up to 5 inches or so I believe as well.

Thanks Colonel! I never thought of that with apples! I will do that now! I have a few apple trees. Thank you 👊

Awesome! Good luck and thanks for watching!

Youre welcome! That's the best way to do it! I replaced just the bearing on my focus and it was so much more work. Much easier to replace the assembly. Nicer to have it all new anyhow. Good luck! I'm not positive of the actual torque to be honest. I just made sure they were tight and I used just a small dab of blue loc tite

I appreciate that! Removing I used a punch and hammer to hit the inside of the axle to loosen it, then it comes right apart easily. Same basically with installation. I put never seize on the axle shaft and then it should go together very easily being new. You can twist the hub assembly and shaft slightly while getting the shaft through and then torque the nut after.

Was there any water in the hull as if the hull plugs weren't in, or in all the way it may have been taking on water? Just thinking if there was any water intrusion to the hull, it may have been sucked up from the intake into the motor. If it was capsized, also just be sure it didn't take on water from flipping UT upright again. Also, there's the possibility of a self siphon, did it get towed at all where it may have siphoned water into the exhaust. Besides having a hole in the hull. Those are the most common ways that water could get in. Of course there is if it was on the trailer and having a hose connected without the machine running. But I'm sure that's not the case as it was running fine prior to it having this issue.

Yes, I do believe they should!

If that happens, it can be a pain sometimes to get realigned. Just have to be patient and turn the key back slowly to line up the tumblers and basically start over.

Thank you!!