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Thanks! Have a great weekend!

What a great way to do that! It's almost like a yearly maintenance that should be done 😆 just a preventative thing. Definitely not uncommon! Thanks so much for sharing that info! 👊 I appreciate that. Have a great weekend!

Fantastic, hope it helped! Thank you 👊 ride safe!

Is that after you replaced the actuators, or something that just occurred? Any fault codes?

@_Parkerest95 definitely sounds like you need to rebuild your carburetors. If you have to use starter fluid to get it running, that means that the pilot circuit is dirty. The pilot circuit of your carburetors is what is used to get the machine running and to operate properly and smoothly from idle to 3,000 RPM. It continues to use that circuit, but then relies more on the Main jet circuit after 3,000rpm. If you are always taking in water them you have a leak somewhere. It may be in the pump housing or hull plugs. Sometimes water will get in, but if it's a lot then there is an issue there.

There is a grease fitting, however it is not a serviceable fitting and polaris says to not grease the U-joint fittings on the prop shaft. A lot of times I have seen this, it comes from the bearing on the rear wheel. It should like the prop shaft, but it's the was the noise travels. I have also seen the drive belt itself create strange noises like that, even sounding like metal, could be a belt that is too tight or not aligned properly. The prop shaft would be replaced as a whole unit.

It turns out it’s the axle nut on the yoke. I am going to grease and tighten the axle nut until there is no play and see if this fixes the problem. I know the nut is 30mm but what are the Allen screws for the two brackets holding the ujoint in the yoke

@michaelstaab2361 Do you have just one axle nut?

@michaelstaab2361 there is a recall for that, it should have 2 nuts and definitely don't grease it! There should be 2 nuts, the first one torqued to 150 ft lbs and the second one torqued to 250 ft lbs and both should have green loc tite on the threads

Youre welcome 👊 ride safe brother

Ok, thanks. I will take that into consideration. This is the first time anyone has ever mentioned that. I have had many tell me how they like that I don't fast forward or skip. 🤷‍♂️ I just try to make good and informative videos. I have 3 Channels and 2 are pretty successful. I must be doing something right 😆

For what recall? There was one with a door lock issue that they did very quickly, got much car back after a few hours. I had my transmission control module replaced at 16,000 miles in 2014 because it failed, was under warranty but not a recall.

Update i plugged radio back in completely and drove to my gate and back smooth shifting and radio on. My radio do show rpm and vehicle speed. Ill take it for a drive and see what happens

@skipbenner that is very interesting. How long has the aftermarket stereo been in for? Just wondering how it was wired in and making sure it wasn't tapped into a power source from CAN BUS on the vehicle where there could be a signal interruption.

Yes, only a little. I would prefer blue as it's more friendly in the event to take it apart again. Red may need heat to remove in the future.

After doing about 1,000 or so in my lifetime it is easy 🤣 Thanks Justin! 👊

It's possible that it could be something different. The same code will set if it your actuators or if it's something internal. Most of the time it can be fixed by cleaning and lubing the ports, other times you can replace the actuators. Worsthan case scenario, you have a bigger problem internally.

Thats fantastic!! 👊 I'm happy to hear that! Thank you!

You got lucky!! 😆 Sometimes that does work well. If your pilot circuit is too plugged, the carburetor needs to be removed. I even like to remove it anyhow for peace of mind that it's physically cleaned well. I used yamaha carburetor dip in a similar way and worked great too! I shut the fuel peacock off on the motorcycle tank, drained the fuel out of the carburetors, then removed the fuel line into the carbs and filled the carburetors with yamaha carburetor dip. I left it like that for about a week. Drained the carbs, a 2001 FZ1 in line 4, reconnected the fuel line and fired it up and it went from running on 3 cylinders, to all 4 and was awesome!

It helps to take the hub off the axle and then you can depress the CV axle in to create a little more room to access the torx bolts. It's not easy but use a light to see as best as possibly and some patience.

I had to replace my Transmission control module at 16K miles! Doing the 'repair' they are doing can last a long time, but to me it is temporary. Almost like a maintenance thing you may want to do once in a while. When I initially did mine, it was great for just over a week and started acting up again. I ordered actuators on Amazon and cleaned and lubed the ports and installed new actuators. The car was great for about 1 year and then died in my driveway a few months ago. Has been sitting since! I believe the transmission control module failed again. I bought my wife a new car and took her Ford edge over. I will get back to the focus asap and see what happens. Either that or just sell it as is. Not worth crap unfortunately, 152,000 miles.

​@@wickedrepairs8527that's like a sad epilogue to this video. It seems like everything's fine and there's a happy ending for your car, only to find out it died a year later. 🤦🏻‍♂️

I have not seen these videos but I'll have to check them out. When ethanol was first introduced i was working in my first motorsports shop and carburetor work became an every day thing all of a sudden! I did a ton of testing myself with fuel in containers with and without stabilizers. Also tested a handful of different stabilizers as well. It was amazing how fast fuel would suck moisture right out of the air and into a container of fuel just when it was moist out or a light drizzle. When your fuel already has ethanol in it and then water is introduced, it then creates electrolysis inside of your carburetor because you have an aluminum carb, steel float pin, brass seat (in a lot of cases) and it creates havoc! Needle valves get stuck, jets gets clogged fast, and water doesn't combust so then you have engine issues! It's so crazy. The shelf life of ethanol fuel not treated with a GOOD stabilizer is 14 days and then it starts to deteriorate. Yamaha fuel stabilizer was the best stabilizer in all my tests. I had containers with fuel and bolts in them. Star tron fuel stabilizer was one of the worwpulthe bolt got rusty very fast. The red color stah bil, was also not good (I believe it actually contains ethanol already in that) and the blue marine one was ok.

@@wickedrepairs8527 well sounds like you have it under control brother

@DisgustedGenXr yes sir! I will be checking those videos out anyhow because I'll take any more information I can get. Always learning more no matter how much we know!

@@wickedrepairs8527 I have a conundrum going on with my LTX 1046 has the FR 600 V 20 horse Kawasaki in it it’s surging all the time I replace a carburetor all gaskets adjusted valve, lash new valve, cover gaskets, new fuel lines all the way to the tank new flip over valve new gas filter, new fuel pump and no matter what I do. It’s still surges I try to just in the governors screw all the way up all the way down they just it all the way down. It’ll pop a little bit like a lien pop I am totally baffled, and yes, I checked the Welch plugs on the carburetor which is brand new and it’s not that. Any ideas?

@DisgustedGenXr i would spray carb cleaner very lightly around the mating surfaces while running to see if there is an air leak of any kind. Maybe a faulty gasket where the carb mounts. Im sure you did, but a fresh spark plug and air filter would at least eliminate those items. Inspect vacuum lines for any cracks. I wpuld at least start there. Then there's the possibility of worn linkage/springs that may need replacing.

If you put your bike in gear and pull in the clutch, it should move. If it doesn't, it's possibly the engine is seized or there is a clutch issue. If the Kickstart is locked up, I would take the right side cover off and check to see what's broken, if there is something broken in there. You could also take a socket and breaker bar to the nut on the rotor (left side of the motor) and see if you can manually turn the motor when it's in neutral.

@@wickedrepairs8527I have the same problem kicker isn’t fully seized but it’s extremely lumpy and takes so much effort to turn over, sometimes if I put the bike in gear and rock it hard back and forward it’ll free up the kicker enough to do a couple more kicks then seize up again, is it most likely the top end ? I’m hoping it isn’t the crank. It’s a rmz 250 2014 model

@RobertBrown-c6n that could go either way really. Have to take the top apart and see what's going on. I'd say more than likely the top end but a crank bearing can do the same. How does the spark plug look? If it looks gray I'd say top end but definitely have to take the head off at least and the cylinder.

@@wickedrepairs8527 Thanks a lot for your quick reply ! Going to tear her down next couple days, will keep you posted lol

@RobertBrown-c6n you're welcome! Definitely keep me posted, hopefully it's just a broken piston or rolled ring!

Interesting, I could have swore i used a 55, maybe it just worked 🤷‍♂️

Thanks for that, I really appreciate it! I'm glad my video was helpful to you! ✌️ Have a great weekend!

Not sure what you needed to see, anything specific? I did explain it very well, for what I didn't show. Sorry for that.

I will have to take a look and recheck for myself 😆 can't think of how to explain it off the top of my head.

Ok thanks, It's unbelievable can't find anything and what sucks is my tractor won't run right until the rod is connected

I'm thinking maybe a part fell off ?

@roberthollinger3184 yeah they definitely need that attached for throttle and governor opening.

I did see that you can get it seperate through Ford. I got the whole cable but didn't really need it, so I just popped off what I needed and kept the cable for the future if needed. That's strange. Pretty sure that should be available

Yeah, towing can be tough. It's not too hard to create a siphon when it's not running. If you follow this video, you have a good chance of saving the motor. Be patient with it! It takes some time and, of course, even more time depending on how much water is in there. Being a 4 stroke, make sure you verify oil level. Change it if necessary, and it may take 2 or more changes if it's milky and contaminated. You will need a battery charger nearby as it will deplete fast, holding the start button in short bursts for 5-7 seconds or so, and letting it rest is important for the battery, starter, and starter wires as they all get hot or could be damaged. Also, keep a set or 2 of fresh spark plugs in case fogging oil or water fouls them out during the process or even shortly after.

@@wickedrepairs8527 It's been quite a month, but I finally got around to this this morning. Nothing geysered out of the plug holes and when I put them back in, it fired up and purred like a kitten. So, false alarm, but I'm still grateful for this content. Getting this done by a Yamaha tech probably would've been pricey.

@christopherwalker5386 that is great! I'm gald to hear that it's all good! I hope things are well and looking up for you now! Definitely would have been pricey at a dealer, at least $120 and hour here in Massachusetts and that'll watch the low end!

Hello and thanks for coming by! Yes, they are the same actuator, same part number for A and B. I bought mine through Amazon and got both for cheaper than 1 through Ford. Ford original equipment is always best, but so far so good with the aftermarket ones in Amazon.

How long did the car last after changing using the Amazon replacement actuators?

@ashleybailey1988 has been almost 1 year with them

That is AMAZING to hear! Thank you so much. I will purchase and get them replaced. I APPRECIATE your fast responses.

@ashleybailey1988 absolutely!! Best of luck to you!! ✌️

Thank you. I appreciate that!

Hey there I have the same tractor with the same issues. However, when I took it apart one of the control rods was disconnected at the controller. I'm not sure if I lost a part and not knowing where this rod attaches too. If possible if you have some explanation or a picture of the throttle and choke rod assembly It would be greatly appreciated.

That seems a bit high for a TCM! They are pricey, but not that involved to replace it. It's definitely a possibility, but I would try to clean and lube the actuator ports as it may be a shift fork or shift shaft that is keeping it from shifting. Also much cheaper to try to replace the actuators first. I had my TCM replaced at 16,000 miles and there was a big lawsuit with these cars and these transmission issues.

@@wickedrepairs8527 Unfortunately I'm in another state now. I'm waiting for her to take it to a non-dealer transmission shop to see what it will cost and what it actually the problem. The code that popped was for the actuators and not the TCM. I maybe traveling back soon to fix it myself.

Did it start easily? I have a feeling you will be fine, but honestly wouldn't hurt just to peek at them. If any water got in there, I'm thinking it's pretty minimal and will burn off. Carry spare plugs with you incase any foul out. Always good to carry extras for a 2 stroke anyhow. Love those GP hulls! One of the best designs ever made.

@@wickedrepairs8527it started right away with no issues but after watching these videos of everyone saying to start the motor and then turn the water on it got me stressing out . Over here in Australia it’s night time so I will have to wait until the morning to give it a try. The jet ski is awesome , thanks for your fast reply man!

I forgot to ask will it hurt to put some of that fogging oil inside the cylinders without knowing if there is water in it or do you think im better off cranking it once to see and then put afterwards?

@Daniel-mv7bl nothing wrong with spraying some fogging oil in there. You shouldn't have to use a lot and fogging oil could foul a plug, but it will help with lubrication just incase! Don't want the piston rings getting rusty if water happened to get in.

Youre welcome!! 👊

Youre welcome! Good luck, I hope it goes well and have a great weekend!

Thats really strange. I have always found it very easy to set up. I would take a closer look just to be sure the correct poles are in the correct spots. Unless there is something defective.

That has a different setup but it still does have shift solenoids and I would check/replace those before anything else. It's the cheapest and existing fix if that is the issue.

Fantastic!! You're welcome! Thanks for commenting and being here! I appreciate that! Happy to help!

Yes! I do believe I used one. Thanks, safety is very important!

Thanks for coming by! Did they not replace the spark plugs? For $900 they should have removed the tank to clean it! That seems extreme! Have you replaced the spark plugs since then? They should definitely be replaced. I got your email and I will reply to you tomorrow with more details and what I recommend for you!

They are all different. I believe I did say them in the video but I just looked them up again in my book. The front carburetor is 7/8 turns out on the Low and 1 1/4 turns out on the high The center carburetor is 7/8 turns out on the Low and 1 1/8 turns out on the high. The rear carburetor (with the accelerator pump) is 1 1/8 turn out on Low and 1 3/8 turns out in the high speed jet.

The weather has been exciting tonight! I'm in Massachusetts. I haven't done much with it in a bit but intend on getting back to it this Fall!

Yes you do. When the actuators are removed, it's basically an open port to where the transmission shift forks are on the shaft. It's important to clean and lube them as they may be getting stuck. Mine was great for a month and then I ended up replacing the actuators with aftermarket ones from Amazon.

Thank you very much!! I appreciate that!

This is true, but that's no fun 😂 Thanks

Where is your idle/air mixture screw set to? I believe it should be at 3/4 turns out, but that is a guideline of course. You can adjust it wherever as needed, but if you adjust it a lot and make it real rich and/or lean you could foul a spark plug doing so (possibly). I am leaning more toward your throttle slide/needle though. Make sure it's installed properly and the throttle cable has free play. I'd start there anyhow

@@wickedrepairs8527 I started at 3/4 then 1 full tuen then 1 1/4. No change. Throttle seems to be free.

Yeah, sometimes the microfiche diagrams are not the best. They orient them different than they actually are. I appreciate you coming by and for commenting, glad it was helpful!

Absolutely! Thank you, I appreciate you leaving a comment! I'll be in the tent next week, can't wait! My oldest son turns 11 and he wants to go camping! 👍 Win win for everyone 🤣

A manual should not have these actuators. If you are having issues with shifting in a manual, most likely it's a clutch issue. Could be something simple like clutch fluid or a master cylinder.

@@wickedrepairs8527 ok thanks .

@lindsaykrug1510 I do not. It's packed away at the moment or I'd measure. I'd say a rough measurement would be 8 ft or so.