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I thank you for an interesting thought, but I can't find a reason to embrace the concept of used oil. Could it use more lube? Yes. If you have tried to use engine oil on chains, you have probably noted that it slings off, and the trend these days is to use the very thinnest oil to save fuel with an engine that has close tolerances. Chain Lube in a can or bottle has a very sticky nature to keep in on the chain, which is why motorcycles use a specific-purpose lubricant. Even heavy gear oil is better than engine oil because it will stay around a little longer. Used oil is no longer in service because it is no longer considered a good lubricant, and using that to avoid spending $5 on a machine worth thousands just not make economic sense.

The best practice to ensure chains operate optimally may be to lube them after a few (8?) hours of use and when the machine is stored between uses. Doing it before storage will keep condensation-based rust and corrosion at bay. If the storage is for a lengthy time, say over winter, another lube session before the season's first use would be very beneficial. Even with all of that, chains do stretch and will need replacement at some point. Hopefully it is a delayed point.

So glad for you that you were able to find this beforehand.

I think you just said 10, 000

Good question. I assembled with the shim. When I tested the hub tightness, it was loose. Not terribly loose, but there was up/down play with the hub, which is equal to giving the top of the tire an in/out movement. This would mean that the upper and lower kingpins are too far apart. Remove the shim(s) and re-assemble to test again. Logically, I believe there should be zero movement, yet no stiffness with the hub in a "steering" motion which would indicate too tight. The kingpin bearings should not be subject to heat that would require a slight give like there is with a wheel bearing, therefore zero tolerance is desired.

As I mentioned in the video, the bale tension system uses hydraulics, and is "closed" - meaning that it does not connect to your tractor. You may not need all of the details, but I will cover them here. First you connect that system to your tractor. I found a coupling behind the baler front pressure gauge (7:36). I purchased a special-sized coupling to match that connector, then made up a hydraulic hose with that special coupling and plugged the hose into my tractor SCV. From the tractor, I pressurized the baler's system, then released that pressure. Repeated that until I was certain there was no air left in the baler's hydraulics. I disconnected the special coupling. At this point, the system is ready to use. The valve in the rear of the baler (7:48) is used to control hydraulic pressure, thus control density. The more the valve is closed, the higher the hydraulic pressure. That pressure is shown by the front pressure gauge. It must never be completely closed. When the rear gate is opened (normal operating process via the tractor SCV), the pressure gauge shows the pressure setting, even when no bale is present.

I was hoping not to have to go to that level of detail. I take a 1/2" breaker bar and insert it into the tensioner pulley arm to relieve pressure, then pop the belt off. If you want video, I'm sure there are other YT videos for that.

Yes, that's possible. But a chain that has stretched will not fit the sprockets correctly, therefore the sprockets will wear faster. If the sprockets are worn enough, they can cause the chain to slip. You don't want to have to change the sprockets and chains.

Good question. Bad bearings would feel rough when turned, give off noise, or create heat. The first two symptoms would not be detectable on a running unit. I highly recommend an "infrared thermometer" gun. Harbor Freight sells them for $25. Run the baler for at least 15 minutes, then take the gun and point it at all of the bearings, looking for one that is warmer than the rest. A very common occurrence with balers is that they burn up in the field. For that, the cause is a bearing that has failed and gets so hot (red hot) that it ignites nearby hay dust or hay. Therefore a gun is a perfect tool to review bearing temperatures when stopped for a break or at the end of the day. I found a bad bearing by accident when I was brushing hay away from the chains and chain sprockets with my bare hand, therefore I could feel that one area was warmer than the rest.

You're welcome

The tractor was at property with a roof-only barn. Regarding anything except a portable generator, I didn't think I needed other equipment, so I didn't haul the extras there for the work.

If you are referencing the filters in the very back where you have to take off a rear shied they are both hydraulic filters. I believe they are both for the transmission. The engine oil is not as obvious. Good video showing where it is.

Grease? - Yes and no. The bottom can be greased with the zerk fitting I added (see 5:45), but the main purpose is to be able to push grease through it to expel possible dirt or water because the bottom seal is no longer perfect. The top is to be greased then assembled, which is the original design. Apparently JD did not believe it necessary to add grease during the lifetime of the bearings, or that the need is very infrequent. The kingpin bearings only move when steering is turned. In comparison, axle bearings move all of the time, but they are similar in that they are only regreased periodically.

Thanks for the encouragement.

I'm not sure which engine you have. But even without looking it up, I add an amount of oil that looks like less than what came out. Then pull out the dipstick, clean it off withe a rag or paper towel, insert back in all the way, remove it again but keep the tip horizontal, so oil on the stick does not run one way or another. Look carefully to see if it shows any signs of oil on the marks. Add more oil if it is not close to the Full mark. Repeat all of this until it is. Since your filter will be new, the filter will hold/take some of the new oil once the engine is restarted. Therefore, once I see the first signs of oil on the dipstick, I start the engine and make sure the oil pressure gauge shows pressure. But on the Kubota it is just a light, so wait until the light goes out, which should be around 15 seconds after starting. Turn off the engine. At that point the filter will be full of oil. I then finish filling to the level I just described.

I do not know the difference. When I look for specs, both are 1994-1998 models, and the specs suggest more power to run the 654, but pickup width and bale size appear to be the same. Sometimes balers have an option for slicing - maybe that's the difference?

644 is 4x5 and 654 baler makes a 4x6 ft bale

Great point. That's why you see that I add jack stands under the axle.

I bought our in December - I am pretty sure it was 2014. It wasn't long before that recall came out - less than a year. However, I had the exact same plugging happening in 2021, long after I made this video. Therefore I can't blame the dealer for that one, so I guess I shouldn't blame them on whatever caused the plugging for this video.

I ended up removing my pump three times. It took me more time to record the video than to do the job. The fender well and duct are untouched, so I do not understand how messing with them makes it easier.

Yep. Exactly.

I think you missed the two places in the video that it mentions the screen in the tank. Might want to check that if you haven't addressed it.

CP3 was used 2001 to 2010. Mine is 2003.

You're right. If replaced each time it is/would be damaged, I'd be replacing it a few times each year ... at $130+ each time. Instead, I avoid being in the area when it is turning.

@@rancher9625 Guess I'm just lucky I've never wrecked pto yet but have a great day thanks your reply