That works, I can add a couple pro tips for some situations others may run into. 1) You can manipulate the arc of the top section when it opens by adjusting or moving where the top rollers mount. In a worst case scenario they sell “low headroom” top brackets, or even low headroom double upper tracks. It doesn’t make the smoothest working door, but if you don’t have room between the arc and ceiling can be a solution. 2) Ideally you want the operator, front and back, installed as low as possible. This also means once installed the track will not be level, it should be sloping down from the wall to the head with the rail only about 1/2” above the fully opened door. 3) #2 will help you get the connecting arm as short as possible, which will also require less over all travel distance and give you a more secure as well as smoother operating door. 4) When the door is fully closed you ideally want the arm as perfectly straight up and down as possible. This helps push the top of the door fully closed, the bottom of the door down for a good seal. Most importantly this helps make your door more secure. When perfectly at 90deg to the floor it makes the door impossible for someone to grab the outside of the door and force it open, they’ll just be pushing straight up against the rail. The further someone installs the arm leaning back the easier it is for someone to force the door up and open. 5) By following #4 you may save yourself from extensive door damage should a spring break or cable come off when closed. With the arm leaning back the operator will attempt to rip the top of the door apart when its pulling dead weight. If the arm is perfectly up and down its going to try to lift the middle of the door up rather than straight back. 6) Bonus tip: When installing the arm mounting bracket to the door you want the pin, or pivot point on the door inline with the horizontal plane of the top two roller shafts.
I just want to thank you for this video! My husband replaced our garage door opener a few weeks ago and used your suggestions. We didn't have to buy the extension, and it's working beautifully! Thanks again!
I have a 7ft opener on my 8ft door i got a chamberlain PD752d 3/4 hp ac chaindrive i just took the stop bolt out and brought the travel up 6 inches and it only its 4 inches below the header it clears what i need it to clear and gets the job done flawlessly
here's a thought. just cause its an 8ft door doesn't mean you need to open it fully to get your car in, so it stops at say the seven ft height the only drawback is a visual one but not of function, if your in need to go all the way up cause your bringing something into the garage you can always disengage the trolley for a few mins. Yeah i realize this is asking for trolls to attack but hey I'm not the one too cheap to buy the right opener.
I have the same issue. I’m struggling with the cost of an extension or spend a few hours manufacturing an extension or just spend an extra $60 for the appropriate extension rail. Everyone’s time equals money. I think I will just buy the extension. Great vid
Exactly. These companies can make a universal unit that at least covers 7 and 8 foot doors. The 10 ft doors are a different story but it would be nice if better information was given when you buy the garage door opener to begin with.
@@chamberlainliftmasterfan-2521 A extension kit is between 45 and 50 Not 70 to 80 Probably spent 20 bucks in wood and screws bolts etc. Unless you bought Chinese crap
That works, I can add a couple pro tips for some situations others may run into.
1) You can manipulate the arc of the top section when it opens by adjusting or moving where the top rollers mount. In a worst case scenario they sell “low headroom” top brackets, or even low headroom double upper tracks. It doesn’t make the smoothest working door, but if you don’t have room between the arc and ceiling can be a solution.
2) Ideally you want the operator, front and back, installed as low as possible. This also means once installed the track will not be level, it should be sloping down from the wall to the head with the rail only about 1/2” above the fully opened door.
3) #2 will help you get the connecting arm as short as possible, which will also require less over all travel distance and give you a more secure as well as smoother operating door.
4) When the door is fully closed you ideally want the arm as perfectly straight up and down as possible. This helps push the top of the door fully closed, the bottom of the door down for a good seal. Most importantly this helps make your door more secure. When perfectly at 90deg to the floor it makes the door impossible for someone to grab the outside of the door and force it open, they’ll just be pushing straight up against the rail. The further someone installs the arm leaning back the easier it is for someone to force the door up and open.
5) By following #4 you may save yourself from extensive door damage should a spring break or cable come off when closed. With the arm leaning back the operator will attempt to rip the top of the door apart when its pulling dead weight. If the arm is perfectly up and down its going to try to lift the middle of the door up rather than straight back.
6) Bonus tip: When installing the arm mounting bracket to the door you want the pin, or pivot point on the door inline with the horizontal plane of the top two roller shafts.
I came across the same issue and this is exactly what I’m looking for. Great job sir!!! 🙏
Glad to know that this was useful.
I just want to thank you for this video! My husband replaced our garage door opener a few weeks ago and used your suggestions. We didn't have to buy the extension, and it's working beautifully! Thanks again!
That's great to hear. Thank you for your confirmation.
I have a 7ft opener on my 8ft door i got a chamberlain PD752d 3/4 hp ac chaindrive i just took the stop bolt out and brought the travel up 6 inches and it only its 4 inches below the header it clears what i need it to clear and gets the job done flawlessly
I got the extension and so far it works good. I replaced the spring last year and now installed a new unit.
here's a thought. just cause its an 8ft door doesn't mean you need to open it fully to get your car in, so it stops at say the seven ft height the only drawback is a visual one but not of function, if your in need to go all the way up cause your bringing something into the garage you can always disengage the trolley for a few mins. Yeah i realize this is asking for trolls to attack but hey I'm not the one too cheap to buy the right opener.
I have the same issue. I’m struggling with the cost of an extension or spend a few hours manufacturing an extension or just spend an extra $60 for the appropriate extension rail. Everyone’s time equals money. I think I will just buy the extension. Great vid
Very informative, thanks for taking the time to make this :-)
Awesome and brilliant. Thank you.
Why Chamberlain do not make an opener rail for 8 foot door ?Do we have same problem with other brands ?
Exactly. These companies can make a universal unit that at least covers 7 and 8 foot doors. The 10 ft doors are a different story but it would be nice if better information was given when you buy the garage door opener to begin with.
Just bought and installed a chamberlain 2202 . The door will only go up 67 inches before it locks. Frustrating piece of junk
So....I was RIGHT ! :o) WOO HOO !
That looks hideous. Save the effort and get an 8' rail in the first place
Andy Wagner still like $70-$80 for an extension kit. Sure this method doesn’t look as good as a regular extension kit, but it gets the job done
@@chamberlainliftmasterfan-2521
A extension kit is between 45 and 50
Not 70 to 80
Probably spent 20 bucks in wood and screws bolts etc. Unless you bought Chinese crap