Steering Knuckle Kingpin Replacement / Repair

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  • เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 เม.ย. 2022
  • 6 years after the lower kingpins sat in flood water, they failed. So far only one needed replacement. Replacement was limited primarily to the bearing and kingpin itself, but there was severe damage to the knuckle hub and a little to the axle casting from the castings rubbing on each other.
    The new lower kingpin bearing seal no longer fully contacts the original hub bearing cavity, so installed that seal and added a zerk fitting to allow grease to be inserted into the bearing area, pushing out debris or water that might occur in the future.
    The knuckle axle joint (double u-joints) also showed some missing paint because it had been rubbing on the knuckle casting. The rubbing was caused because the axle was running lower than designed due to kingpin bearing disintegration.
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ความคิดเห็น • 11

  • @detchie69
    @detchie69 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Thanks for the video!

    • @rancher9625
      @rancher9625  ปีที่แล้ว

      Glad that the information can be useful.

  • @mantequilla9336
    @mantequilla9336 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Great video. Very informative.

  • @tylerhall6455
    @tylerhall6455 ปีที่แล้ว

    Wondering with that nice machine and indoor shop you don't have air tools, mainly a air hammer to help you get this done? Thanks for the vid. Trying to prep for doing the front axle on my case 580 super k.

    • @rancher9625
      @rancher9625  ปีที่แล้ว

      The tractor was at property with a roof-only barn. Regarding anything except a portable generator, I didn't think I needed other equipment, so I didn't haul the extras there for the work.

  • @johnfranq
    @johnfranq 3 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Hi great video, How did you determine whether the shim was required or not?

    • @rancher9625
      @rancher9625  3 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

      Good question. I assembled with the shim. When I tested the hub tightness, it was loose. Not terribly loose, but there was up/down play with the hub, which is equal to giving the top of the tire an in/out movement. This would mean that the upper and lower kingpins are too far apart. Remove the shim(s) and re-assemble to test again. Logically, I believe there should be zero movement, yet no stiffness with the hub in a "steering" motion which would indicate too tight. The kingpin bearings should not be subject to heat that would require a slight give like there is with a wheel bearing, therefore zero tolerance is desired.

  • @genechronister7085
    @genechronister7085 ปีที่แล้ว

    Ouch

  • @raywilliams9808
    @raywilliams9808 ปีที่แล้ว

    Not greaseable then?

    • @rancher9625
      @rancher9625  ปีที่แล้ว

      Grease? - Yes and no. The bottom can be greased with the zerk fitting I added (see 5:45), but the main purpose is to be able to push grease through it to expel possible dirt or water because the bottom seal is no longer perfect. The top is to be greased then assembled, which is the original design. Apparently JD did not believe it necessary to add grease during the lifetime of the bearings, or that the need is very infrequent. The kingpin bearings only move when steering is turned. In comparison, axle bearings move all of the time, but they are similar in that they are only regreased periodically.