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there exists such a thing. I know of Falcon Sanding Stones that makes some and I've seen them sold on Maritime Knife Supplies website, I'm sure theres more companies out there making some too!

Thanks!

Gracias 🙏🏼

Thanks! Working on a few 😬

Thank you!

Thank you!!

Thanks!

My pleasure!

Glad you’ve found it helpful! I’ll usually blend that transition with my disc sander while it has the leather backing, just carefully touch it so I don’t wash out the flat area for the handle scales to sit on. Then it can be blended further during hand sanding. For the leather on my disc I’m using 8oz veg tan, but be sure to chamfer and round the edge of the side where you stick the sandpaper, if you leave it at a 90 degree it is very very easy to catch the edge of your knife, and that is extremely dangerous and scary. I use 3m feathering disc adhesive for the disc, also use it on the leather. Hope this helps

Thank you! I appreciate it!

My pleasure!

It definitely moves a bit but to be honest I’ve been using it for so long I don’t even notice anymore. Though sometimes I’ll throw a 60lb anvil on the other end and it solves that issue

@@saccoknives That sounds like a great solution. Also gives me a good weight estimate for a table that won't shake too much. Thanks for the response!

I’ve never had any trouble, I don’t use a whole lot of wax to begin with just enough to lightly coat the tang. I also go back in with some small files and clean up the edges because I found that the tang slot leaves an extremely tight fit which makes it difficult to slide the handle on and off while I’m working & checking it.

Thanks! I may add that in to one of my next videos

Thanks! I use Birchwood Casey super blue

Cheers

Good to be back!

Thanks! Much better than a handful of elastics that’s for sure

not a noob question at all! The disc sander is machined properly flat, so it covers quite a larger surface area on the bevels of my knife vs the 2 inches my belt sander gives me. This allows me to even out my grinds and double check that I've not got any high or low spots left over from my 2x72. It's also good with a leather backing because again, it's got a nice large flat surface area, so with the leather I can blend my convex grinds over a larger area and even everything out which really helps cut down on hand sanding. Essentially its just a super handy tool if you want to get flat bevels, or make sure your tang and handle material flat for better glue ups. hope this helps

@@saccoknives sweet! Thanks for the informative reply. I got into knife making recently so the disk sander is definitely something I’ll be looking into in the near future!

@@cressibuiltcustoms if you're getting a disc sander I would HIGHLY recommend getting the VFD with it or some sort of speed control. Otherwise they can be quite difficult and slightly terrifying to use!

Not on my stock removeal knives. I buy the steel normalized and annealed

@@saccoknives thank you. Would you mind if I ask where you purchase your steel from? I mostly get mine from New Jersey Steel Baron. I usually use 1084, but I’m very interested in moving into 52100. I haven’t done that in the past because most everything you see says you really need an oven. I think you’ve shown that you really don’t. Thanks again!

@@dougclarke4540 I've found 52100 to be quite forgiving and a fairly easy steel to heat treat out of a forge so long as you're not forging it. If you are forging then yes I would recommend putting it through proper cycles in a HT oven. I'd also recommend parks 50 quench oil for the best and most consistent results. I get my 52100 from NJSB as well, with each steel on their website they have data sheets for heat treating which is always a nice little touch

Thanks! This was 52100

Sure! I’ll add it to my list

Unfortunately I don’t have a welder so I’ve got to make do with what I have! It works just as well. Thanks!

Big leaf maple burl

52100

@@saccoknives is this safe for food usage? Will the finish come off into the food?

My pleasure!

I use a 3 to 1 solution of water to ferric. So 3 parts water and 1 part ferric chloride. I think the key to getting a nice dark even finish is a good hand sand or clean finish on the steel before going into the ferric chloride. And then I do 2-3 cycles usually