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I put in an upgraded turbo mouthpiece and detail that in another video but i took it down. Below is a link to the exact one I put in. Didnt notice any major "performance" differences, but I did notice a lower EGT and a slightly quicker spool from the turbo. Biggest issue is that there are very sharp bends in the stock part and it causes areas of high/low pressure in those bends. at some point ill do an AirDog, but i have been working on other projects. I need to upload those videos before people think this is a dead channel. www.xtremediesel.com/sb-filters-76-1006b-turbo-inlet-manifold?gclid=CjwKCAjwyY6pBhA9EiwAMzmfwcy7javfbKFKjgbxANyEbSacXCpE9Jz0eKt8EXjRL9EwZBXG1w3-6RoCNg4QAvD_BwE

Most likely. If the pump has age on it it could be leaking internally. Another possibility is the air bleed screw that you open to purge air after changing the fuel filter. Could even be a bad seal at the fuel filter or fuel heater....although usually there you would have an external fuel leak. I'd personally start by making sure the lines are clean from the lift pump to the injector lines as and loose fitting can cause a loss of prime. Sometimes it could even be as simple as the rubber line feeding into the lift pump getting a dryrot crack and allowing air to bleed in. I'd start by cleaning off and looking at lines before you start shotgunning parts at it. Hope that helps

@@ssgpentland8241 is it worthwhile to go ahead and do the upgrade to the newer style pump? I’ll definitely look more closely at the lines. Thank you for the advice!!

@@ssgpentland8241 the guys at power driven diesel said not to upgrade to the newer style lift pump because it would over pressurize the system and blow seals out. It’s mostly stock with a fueling mod and I think a timing mod.

What I ended up doing was putting the turbine compressor wheel and compressor housing on my stock H1C 3531696 turbo. Spools up a bit slower than a stock turbo, but being a manual I can keep the RPM up a bit higher to keep it spooled up. Switching to a newer generation turbo like an HX40 would require an aftermarket exhaust manifold since the mount is different and also a different downpipe because of the turbine housing diameter. This is why some like the hybrid turbo option. However, if you have a non-waistgated turbo (like i do) be carful because it's possible to over speed the turbine and cause damage to the turbo/engine

The radiator I purchased through my local Auto zone and the only differences are; manual or automatic transmission (integrated transmission oil cooler, external cooler). I dont know the part number, but if I find it, I'll post a new comment

As do we all

thanks. I still run the stuff and so far I haven't had a single problem.

Didn't need it at that time, and replacing the water pump is actually pretty simple. WAY easier than other vehicles, especially front wheel drive cars.

No problems since. She's parked for the winter since she has a "open" rear differential and performs horribly on snow/ice.

Could be several things. When is it doing it? Cold start? When hot / every start? Does it have excessive smoke? Ect. If it's only on cold starts, that's fairly "normal" since these trucks do not have glow plugs, they have a grid heater that heats the air coming through the intake manifold so it takes a few seconds to catch up. Could be that the lift pump is starting to fail and doesn't supply enough fuel at cranking rpm(this was an issue I had before I replaced the pump). Could be the injector pump doesn't create enough pressure to pop off the injectors at low cranking speed, Could be an injector (or several) that have a weak spring and "leak" fuel or pop off too early causing rough starts/ idles and smoke as well as some other things.

So at cold starts I go and it will crank and try to start but shuts off. At the second crank it starts up. When cold it idles very rough then it will idle up after about a minute and be fine after that. No smoke at all just like a haze. And it hazes when I’m at the drive thru and idling when the weather is cold.

So far it's the best I've put on. The BD manifold has some corrosion on it that I've let them know about. Not too bad, but way more than the passenger side stock manifold

for tightening? also, non visible cylinder caps can be replaced without pulling the whole engine off?

I dont, but this is who I got it from. The only difference is my end tanks were painted black. chrracing.com/products/aluminum-radiator-for-dodge-ram-w-5-9l-cummins-90-91-92-93-1990-1991-1992-1993?currency=USD&variant=35869738401947&Google%20Shopping&gclid=Cj0KCQjwnJaKBhDgARIsAHmvz6eQxvGxrCzUEdGOK9noSyIBA6FOl1HJGKyubkBcDkTr5BVfacrgmjQaAgkbEALw_wcB

@@ssgpentland8241 thank you! My 90 12v is non intercooled and my radiator has upper and lower hoses on the passenger side just like yours, but all I can find are ones that have the bottom hose and cap on the passenger side and one on the driver side?

@@texasfish9437 I know the ones for the I/C engines (93 and newer) are different. They should still be pretty easy to find. I got mine after a quick Google search.

@@ssgpentland8241 I basically need yours but not sure what to type in that was 4 years ago when you made this video so not sure if they still have it. :(

@@texasfish9437 the link was from their site just a few min ago when I 1st replied. I'm pretty sure they will have what you need. There's enough of them still on the road that even major auto parts stores should be able to get one. Some "generic" use radiators may have a built in transmission oil cooler or something, but that won't effect how it cools your engine.

Good question. For me it did not trigger a CEL because my truck isn't programmed with California emissions. It does however trigger "soft codes" since the computer no longer detects the egr system. To test this, find the electrical connector to your EGR valve and simply unplug it. The. Start your truck and bring it to operating temperature. If no CEL comes on, then you're good and you won't get an amber light. The soft codes won't effect drivability in ANY way. Sure you can program them out with an EFI live tune, but its not needed. I've had zero problems ever since and I still drive the truck. Hope this helps.

Well said. There are alot of ways to remedy the EGR issue. I simply decided to remove mine and replace the up pipes because I just wanted the assurance that it would never be an issue again. Havnt had any issues with the Tcase but will keep it in mind. (Change fluids with BG fluids annually). Also agree with getting rid of "DexKill" coolant because it reacts POORLY with air and forms this pink sludge that can (and does) clog the cooling systems. Again, annual BG fluid services has kept that from becoming an issue. At this moment I am still running stock tuning but will probably change that with EFI Live. Not planning anything crazy and in fact may have it detuned slightly for maximum economy for unloaded highway driving. Just replaced tierods since after 108k they were getting a little sloppy (not bad for original stock units). I got a few things to fix which are mostly cosmetic and age related. Will probably buy the new Banks diff cover for her before it gets cold again. Thanks again for the comment.

It's the return line from my FS2500 bypass oil filter.

Yea, it blew my mind that he obviously not only saw it but he commented as well

Yes, it was actually a combination of a $hitty regulator and an alternator that was failing(internal winding issue) Replaced them both and the problem is fixed. MAKE SURE you disconnect the battery or you will damage the new regulator or alternator.

Thanks. Didn't want to speak for anyone but myself. Seems alot of people felt the same.

Thanks