Its not too difficult, main thing is to take your time and make SURE you get all the gasket material off the block. A good razor blade works well for this. Take care not to get it into the engine itself. Use a clean paper towel inside the hole for that. Also might recommend some white plumbing paste on the fuel line threads to seal them. Good luck
Also, there is a "part 2" to this. I ended up needing to put it back together quickly due to a storm and had to do tbis job a 2nd time to replace the gasket. I go a little more in depth.
Most likely. If the pump has age on it it could be leaking internally. Another possibility is the air bleed screw that you open to purge air after changing the fuel filter. Could even be a bad seal at the fuel filter or fuel heater....although usually there you would have an external fuel leak. I'd personally start by making sure the lines are clean from the lift pump to the injector lines as and loose fitting can cause a loss of prime. Sometimes it could even be as simple as the rubber line feeding into the lift pump getting a dryrot crack and allowing air to bleed in. I'd start by cleaning off and looking at lines before you start shotgunning parts at it. Hope that helps
@@ssgpentland8241 is it worthwhile to go ahead and do the upgrade to the newer style pump? I’ll definitely look more closely at the lines. Thank you for the advice!!
@@ssgpentland8241 the guys at power driven diesel said not to upgrade to the newer style lift pump because it would over pressurize the system and blow seals out. It’s mostly stock with a fueling mod and I think a timing mod.
I have a 1991 dodge ram turbo diesel cummins starts fine but after it starts sounds like it gonna die. New at this the truck my grandfather bought it new in 1991 he passed away I got it. Now it's giving me trouble. Less the 200,000 miles on it. Really want to learn or i am gonna have to sell. Any help you can give would love it. Thanks Tammy
Hmm...does it only act like it will die when idling? Does it smoke (more than normal)? Does it feel like a misfire? Simple possibilities first, I'd check for a clogged fuel or air filter. Air is easy, the fuel filter is kinda a pain but its something you can change yourself. If you dont know the age of the fuel filter its a good idea to change it as this is a commonly neglected maintenance item. Next assuming that didnt fix the problem is to check on the fuel. If its been in the tank longer than 6 months it can start to degrade, accumulate waterer or even an algae in it. Next is to check the lift pump by opening the air bleed screw and pushing the primper lever. If fuel comes out the lift pump is fine, if not or if it is very little, you could have an issue like I did there the diaphragm is ripping and causing the injector pump to lose prime. If all that still hasn't fixed it, next you move onto the injector pump or injectors. Thisnis where you should consult a professional, but its not unrealistic to have a set of injectors that are worn out. Each injector has to build up internal pressure before the correct "pop off pressure" is reached and the fuel is delivered at a specific time and pressure. A worn injector will "piddle" fuel in and will result in poor combustion, excessive smoke or rough idling. The same is true of the injector pump itself. However I would suspect a set of injectors way before the pump itself. Sorry this was a bit long but without seeing the truck or hearing it run kinda hard so I shotguned the most likely causes out there. These engines are pretty simple and its either fuel or air since there are no annoying sensors or electronics. Hope it helps
Sorry I didnt do a video of removal and install, but as I was getting started a storm was coming and I was in a hurry.....which is why I had to do another video doing it again due to oil leaking.
Its the same part from 1989 - 1993. The link below has the part number and in fact its the same one found on GMC trucks of the same era, the part is the same. Hope it helps www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/DC/1794-05008532.html?DN&PartsGeek+Google+Base&+Dodge+D250+Fuel+Pump+Airtex+1407+89-93+Dodge+Fuel+Pump+1991+1992&fp=pp&gbm=a&PartsGeek+Google+Basecid=6774379819&aid=79287199093&keyword=311364642155%3A%3Apla-311364642155&kid=311364642155&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIpt-qpsKb6gIVEvDACh3ExAFbEAQYBSABEgJ0WPD_BwE
If the lever on pump doesnt work like has no resistance at all and not sucking fuel is pump bad mine fired up and ran like crap for a few minutes which I thought was cause it was cold and then cleared up I moved truck about 100 feet it ran about 10 minutes total& i shut it off and went to move back and it wouldn't start no fuel at filter and nothing at pump
Jared, had a similar situation. The diaphragm inside the pump was shot allowing fuel to drain back through and lose prime. The reason this needs attention is not just poor performance and hard starting, but the MUCH more expensive injector pump is starved of fuel and and will result in damage to the injector pump or injectors themselves. This pump is not hard to replace with a little know-how and simple hand tools. Thanks for the comment
Could be several things. When is it doing it? Cold start? When hot / every start? Does it have excessive smoke? Ect. If it's only on cold starts, that's fairly "normal" since these trucks do not have glow plugs, they have a grid heater that heats the air coming through the intake manifold so it takes a few seconds to catch up. Could be that the lift pump is starting to fail and doesn't supply enough fuel at cranking rpm(this was an issue I had before I replaced the pump). Could be the injector pump doesn't create enough pressure to pop off the injectors at low cranking speed, Could be an injector (or several) that have a weak spring and "leak" fuel or pop off too early causing rough starts/ idles and smoke as well as some other things.
So at cold starts I go and it will crank and try to start but shuts off. At the second crank it starts up. When cold it idles very rough then it will idle up after about a minute and be fine after that. No smoke at all just like a haze. And it hazes when I’m at the drive thru and idling when the weather is cold.
Unless you are removing them, no. As long as you bleed the filter there will still be fuel in the lines and pump. If you replace an injector, you can bleed the line by loosening the line at the injector. *warning* do NOT do this on common rail engines.
@@ssgpentland8241 the reason I ask is I turn the truck off when I went to the store, returned in the truck wouldn't start I did a FSS delete and replace the lift pump, bled that line going into the filter truck still will not start so I'm wondering do I have air in the injector lines
Wow the music comment . An old man once told me a story about loud music. It went like this. He said. You know when a baby is sucking on a cheerio and the baby tries to put that slobbery cheerio in your mouth? The baby doesn't know the cheerio is gross and slobbery . The baby just wants to share. So when we hear that loud and shitty music. It's their cheerio they're trying to share. Rest in peace Stan.
Hello I have a similar engine in komatsu excavator I keep have to change lift pump change five in four months once I put new ones on it work perfectly for a little while. Any suggestions. Thanks
5 months?! That seems unusual to me since these "lift pumps" are the same thing really that was put onto small block GM products, Fords and Dodges since.....forever. How many hours is your engine seeing? Do you do other maintenance besides the pump ect and lastly (and please do not take the wrong way) is it installed correct / a QUALITY pump? These pumps are pretty basic and because of their simple nature they should last quite awhile. I'm thinking something else is going on. By the way, I am also assuming that there are not some wild modifications to the other parts of the fuel system or that you have turned the injection pump up beyond what the lift pump can support? Maybe your best option is to simply "block off" the stock pump and look into an electric one. This is no different than ones again used in carberated cars / trucks and most of them have a built in pressure switch, this is important because if you supply more than 15-20psi on the intake side of the injection pump, you risk blowing a seal that will allow fuel into your engine itself. Sorry this was long, but wanted to try to answer in the most possible direction. Thanks for the question
These lift pumps are NOT good enough for the 2nd gen P-pump engines. If the lift pump goes, the injection pump soon follows and is a lot more expensive and harder to service
Thank you for this straight forward no nonsense video👍🏼
Nice video! I like that comment about 14:24, that you "tighten the dog wodd out of it" with electrical tape! Keep up the good work.
thanks.....that's better than what I usually say but I "try" to keep it in the PG realm
Thank you for a plain Jane bare facts video that means something !!!! Going to attempt my first pump change fingers crossed lol lol !!!
Its not too difficult, main thing is to take your time and make SURE you get all the gasket material off the block. A good razor blade works well for this. Take care not to get it into the engine itself. Use a clean paper towel inside the hole for that. Also might recommend some white plumbing paste on the fuel line threads to seal them. Good luck
Also, there is a "part 2" to this. I ended up needing to put it back together quickly due to a storm and had to do tbis job a 2nd time to replace the gasket. I go a little more in depth.
Fantastic video! Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
I’m losing prime and NOT leaking fuel anywhere. 90 first gen. You think it’s still the lift pump?
Most likely. If the pump has age on it it could be leaking internally. Another possibility is the air bleed screw that you open to purge air after changing the fuel filter. Could even be a bad seal at the fuel filter or fuel heater....although usually there you would have an external fuel leak. I'd personally start by making sure the lines are clean from the lift pump to the injector lines as and loose fitting can cause a loss of prime. Sometimes it could even be as simple as the rubber line feeding into the lift pump getting a dryrot crack and allowing air to bleed in. I'd start by cleaning off and looking at lines before you start shotgunning parts at it. Hope that helps
@@ssgpentland8241 is it worthwhile to go ahead and do the upgrade to the newer style pump? I’ll definitely look more closely at the lines. Thank you for the advice!!
@@ssgpentland8241 the guys at power driven diesel said not to upgrade to the newer style lift pump because it would over pressurize the system and blow seals out. It’s mostly stock with a fueling mod and I think a timing mod.
I have a 1991 dodge ram turbo diesel cummins starts fine but after it starts sounds like it gonna die. New at this the truck my grandfather bought it new in 1991 he passed away I got it. Now it's giving me trouble. Less the 200,000 miles on it. Really want to learn or i am gonna have to sell. Any help you can give would love it. Thanks Tammy
Hmm...does it only act like it will die when idling? Does it smoke (more than normal)? Does it feel like a misfire? Simple possibilities first, I'd check for a clogged fuel or air filter. Air is easy, the fuel filter is kinda a pain but its something you can change yourself. If you dont know the age of the fuel filter its a good idea to change it as this is a commonly neglected maintenance item. Next assuming that didnt fix the problem is to check on the fuel. If its been in the tank longer than 6 months it can start to degrade, accumulate waterer or even an algae in it. Next is to check the lift pump by opening the air bleed screw and pushing the primper lever. If fuel comes out the lift pump is fine, if not or if it is very little, you could have an issue like I did there the diaphragm is ripping and causing the injector pump to lose prime. If all that still hasn't fixed it, next you move onto the injector pump or injectors. Thisnis where you should consult a professional, but its not unrealistic to have a set of injectors that are worn out. Each injector has to build up internal pressure before the correct "pop off pressure" is reached and the fuel is delivered at a specific time and pressure. A worn injector will "piddle" fuel in and will result in poor combustion, excessive smoke or rough idling. The same is true of the injector pump itself. However I would suspect a set of injectors way before the pump itself. Sorry this was a bit long but without seeing the truck or hearing it run kinda hard so I shotguned the most likely causes out there. These engines are pretty simple and its either fuel or air since there are no annoying sensors or electronics. Hope it helps
Sorry I didnt do a video of removal and install, but as I was getting started a storm was coming and I was in a hurry.....which is why I had to do another video doing it again due to oil leaking.
Please can you tell us what is the part number , and if will work on a 1991 w250
Its the same part from 1989 - 1993. The link below has the part number and in fact its the same one found on GMC trucks of the same era, the part is the same. Hope it helps
www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/DC/1794-05008532.html?DN&PartsGeek+Google+Base&+Dodge+D250+Fuel+Pump+Airtex+1407+89-93+Dodge+Fuel+Pump+1991+1992&fp=pp&gbm=a&PartsGeek+Google+Basecid=6774379819&aid=79287199093&keyword=311364642155%3A%3Apla-311364642155&kid=311364642155&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIpt-qpsKb6gIVEvDACh3ExAFbEAQYBSABEgJ0WPD_BwE
hey - thanks for NOT using that obnoxious background racket (music?). i’d MUCH rather hear
what you are saying !!!
Thanks for the video. Hate the tacky intro’s aswell. Cheers
Thanks as well. Got a few I have been working on that I have to get uploaded.
If the lever on pump doesnt work like has no resistance at all and not sucking fuel is pump bad mine fired up and ran like crap for a few minutes which I thought was cause it was cold and then cleared up I moved truck about 100 feet it ran about 10 minutes total& i shut it off and went to move back and it wouldn't start no fuel at filter and nothing at pump
Jared, had a similar situation. The diaphragm inside the pump was shot allowing fuel to drain back through and lose prime. The reason this needs attention is not just poor performance and hard starting, but the MUCH more expensive injector pump is starved of fuel and and will result in damage to the injector pump or injectors themselves. This pump is not hard to replace with a little know-how and simple hand tools. Thanks for the comment
@@ssgpentland8241 it doesn't have poor performance it flat won't start. Period in going to change pump and see if that helps thanks
What if it’s a rough idle at start then it idles fine after a minute ?
Could be several things. When is it doing it? Cold start? When hot / every start? Does it have excessive smoke? Ect. If it's only on cold starts, that's fairly "normal" since these trucks do not have glow plugs, they have a grid heater that heats the air coming through the intake manifold so it takes a few seconds to catch up. Could be that the lift pump is starting to fail and doesn't supply enough fuel at cranking rpm(this was an issue I had before I replaced the pump). Could be the injector pump doesn't create enough pressure to pop off the injectors at low cranking speed, Could be an injector (or several) that have a weak spring and "leak" fuel or pop off too early causing rough starts/ idles and smoke as well as some other things.
So at cold starts I go and it will crank and try to start but shuts off. At the second crank it starts up. When cold it idles very rough then it will idle up after about a minute and be fine after that. No smoke at all just like a haze. And it hazes when I’m at the drive thru and idling when the weather is cold.
Would you need to bleed each of the injectors too ?
Unless you are removing them, no. As long as you bleed the filter there will still be fuel in the lines and pump. If you replace an injector, you can bleed the line by loosening the line at the injector. *warning* do NOT do this on common rail engines.
@@ssgpentland8241 the reason I ask is I turn the truck off when I went to the store, returned in the truck wouldn't start I did a FSS delete and replace the lift pump, bled that line going into the filter truck still will not start so I'm wondering do I have air in the injector lines
Wow the music comment .
An old man once told me a story about loud music.
It went like this.
He said.
You know when a baby is sucking on a cheerio and the baby tries to put that slobbery cheerio in your mouth?
The baby doesn't know the cheerio is gross and slobbery . The baby just wants to share.
So when we hear that loud and shitty music.
It's their cheerio they're trying to share.
Rest in peace Stan.
Hello I have a similar engine in komatsu excavator I keep have to change lift pump change five in four months once I put new ones on it work perfectly for a little while. Any suggestions. Thanks
5 months?! That seems unusual to me since these "lift pumps" are the same thing really that was put onto small block GM products, Fords and Dodges since.....forever. How many hours is your engine seeing? Do you do other maintenance besides the pump ect and lastly (and please do not take the wrong way) is it installed correct / a QUALITY pump? These pumps are pretty basic and because of their simple nature they should last quite awhile. I'm thinking something else is going on. By the way, I am also assuming that there are not some wild modifications to the other parts of the fuel system or that you have turned the injection pump up beyond what the lift pump can support? Maybe your best option is to simply "block off" the stock pump and look into an electric one. This is no different than ones again used in carberated cars / trucks and most of them have a built in pressure switch, this is important because if you supply more than 15-20psi on the intake side of the injection pump, you risk blowing a seal that will allow fuel into your engine itself. Sorry this was long, but wanted to try to answer in the most possible direction. Thanks for the question
Kevin check all fuel lines for cracks or leaks. Somewhere there is air getting in your lines making your lift pump work harder.
BECAUSE THATS STUPID......I THANK YOU SIR!!!
Hey just wondering if anybody know where to get the low pressure switch on the suction line for a 1991 D250 part #56005783
If you have the tools or the know-how it is not too hard to make it as I did, but you can have one made at any shop that makes hydraulic hose
🤣🤣🤣🤣love that intro
These lift pumps are NOT good enough for the 2nd gen P-pump engines. If the lift pump goes, the injection pump soon follows and is a lot more expensive and harder to service