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swalesutube
United States
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 26 ต.ค. 2010
Owner of:
CanAm ATV
Fleetwood Bounder 35k
CanAm ATV
Fleetwood Bounder 35k
Ultimate Guide to Onan EC-AGS+ (Almost)
The Almost Ultimate Guide to the Cummins Onan EC-AGS+ Automatic Generator Start system.
Learn why you need an AGS, how to install, and a fix to why many have had difficulties with this AGS.
Chapters:
00:00 Onan EC-AGS+
00:14 Install Overview
00:58 Do you need an AGS?
03:26 What about Lithium?
05:55 Why I chose EC-AGS+
09:19 What comes in Box?
14:05 Safety First
14:14 Temp Sensor Install
15:09 Gateway Install
16:13 Harness Install
17:28 Common Wiring Choice - Possible Issue
18:35 Eliminating Parasitic Draw
20:38 First Startup Test - Whats Wrong?
23:15 The Fix!
27:41 Start on Temperature
36:19 Start on Battery Voltage
36:40 Settings
38:06 Final Thoughts
39:18 Bonus Material
39:39 User Settable Minimum Runtime
40:30 Gray Wire Charge Parameters
41:27 Custom Lebels Red/Gray wires
41:56 Improve Temperature Controls
43:25 Heating Mode
44:20 Generator Hours Reset
44:49 Battery Voltages
45:55 Thanks for Watching
Learn why you need an AGS, how to install, and a fix to why many have had difficulties with this AGS.
Chapters:
00:00 Onan EC-AGS+
00:14 Install Overview
00:58 Do you need an AGS?
03:26 What about Lithium?
05:55 Why I chose EC-AGS+
09:19 What comes in Box?
14:05 Safety First
14:14 Temp Sensor Install
15:09 Gateway Install
16:13 Harness Install
17:28 Common Wiring Choice - Possible Issue
18:35 Eliminating Parasitic Draw
20:38 First Startup Test - Whats Wrong?
23:15 The Fix!
27:41 Start on Temperature
36:19 Start on Battery Voltage
36:40 Settings
38:06 Final Thoughts
39:18 Bonus Material
39:39 User Settable Minimum Runtime
40:30 Gray Wire Charge Parameters
41:27 Custom Lebels Red/Gray wires
41:56 Improve Temperature Controls
43:25 Heating Mode
44:20 Generator Hours Reset
44:49 Battery Voltages
45:55 Thanks for Watching
มุมมอง: 278
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Ultimate Cooling for UTV
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Let them kids learn! Lol 😂 no touchy
One more question. Fifth wheel two lithium batteries and no engine start or chassis battery like in a motor coach. Any suggestions? Thank you
You should be fine with starting the generator on a lithium. Your only challenge will be if you want to use the start on battery voltage option. You will need to determine when your voltage starts to drop on low state of charge. This is narrower than with a flooded/AGM battery. Hopefully you have a shunt that will show you the state of charge. This will help you figure that voltage out.
Great job
Parts list??
@@arthemmingson2439 I showed a close up of the PMW controller. There are many on EBAY matching the specs I mentioned. Vendors come and go, so a link would already be gone. As far as a fan, measure the space you have and get the largest that fit in that space as it will move more air than a smaller fan.
Holy smokes man, why’d you decide to record a video at the very same time the popo came to serve the arrest warrant on you.
What a huge and obvious fail on Oman’s part, cost them my sale, going Cerbo GX.
I don’t think the product is a failure… just a work in progress. A couple software improvements and it will be even better.
You are the absolute man. It was my starter relay. Quick swap with the AC relay and I'm on the Rd..
Thanks. Glad it helped you get back on the road… safe travels.
Got the E3A code on the last trip. This means the dryer overheated. It was totally my fault as I did not heed the warning in the instructions. It says you can wash 15lbs, but only dry 7lbs. I never really thought about why. Well it turns out that over loading reduces the needed air flow, which causes the condenser to overheat. Took a couple hours to pull the unit out, open up, and hit the thermal breaker buttons. I also took the opportunity to remove the condenser fan and clean out the lint… be sure to do that if doing any maintenance. All is working fine now… lesson learned!
I've never seen a winch that wound in from the bottom of the spool instead of over the top that just don't look right I have three winches and they all run off the top of the spool when winding in not off the bottom maybe it was round round from the factory or is that the way it's supposed to be I don't buy from Harbor Freight bad experiences in the past with their stuff but I think I'm going to call him and just out of curiosity to see if it's supposed to wind off the bottom if so that's a new one on me thanks for the video
I have never seen one that winds from the top. All mine wind from bottom. I think the key is what is in line with the fair lead. I also verified my Warn winch and it winds in from bottom. I would unspool yours and check what the drum says to confirm yours is correct. It should have an indication on the drum.
Most winches wind from the bottom. www.google.com/search?q=prioer%20winch%20winding%20top%20or%20bottom&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&client=firefox-b-1-m
Senior…. Thanks to you and this video. I was stuck in Amarillo this morning 800 miles from home. Had already changed battery out as it was going bad. Wouldn’t start. Reset the relay and voila it turned over. Just finished a 13 hour drive home safe thanks to you. Well done sir.
Story sounded familiar, brought back nightmares :). Glad it helped you figure it out… safe travels!
How do you reset the relay?
Really well done! Thank you for taking the time to explain and video. That is a lot of work and time put into it. FYI, my step still works fine.
I just recently purchased a fan for the roof of my golf cart. 12v 120watts. I purchased a PWM off of Amazon with a kill switch built in. When I hook it up and turn it on and turn the dial up it will not turn my fan at all. I hooked up my multimeter on the outlet side and it is pushing 12v out of the PWM. Fan will run straight to power just fine or with a two way switch. Any thoughts on what I am missing?
Possibly the PMW cannot deliver the amps needed to start the fan.
I just recently purchased a fan for the roof of my golf cart. 12v 120watts. I purchased a PWM off of Amazon with a kill switch built in. When I hook it up and turn it on and turn the dial up it will not turn my fan at all. I hooked up my multimeter on the outlet side and it is pushing 12v out of the PWM. Fan will run straight to power just fine or with a two way switch. Any thoughts on what I am missing?
So question I’d like to ask? What are your thoughts on a fan of similar size under the dash? I’m looking for dust control mostly, would that cause the pressure around the feet area to keep the dust out? Maybe not quite as harsh as the fan blowing or noise right at your face ??? What you think?
Would be terrible for heat. Most of the heat comes from under the dash area because that’s where the radiator blow it.., and the hoses run under the floor. Plus, where does it get the fresh air? You would just be blowing dust and heat around. You MUST get fresh air from above the fan if you want it to work properly. Make sure to get the LARGEST fan you can fit, so you can run it slower rpm and the noise it not bad.
Was it burning oil because of excessive miles or was it the typical intake boots leaking? Also I’m curious what hone you used to hone the cylinder and what you set the ring gap to. I’m just in the middle of doing an in frame build right now. This one destroyed the cam chain side piston but had been using oil since the first dealer oil change after it was new.
Intake boots were fine. Most likely the previous owner did not take care of air filter and oil changes. DO NOT hone the cylinder as it has a coating that honing will destroy. Sounds like you should be doing a FULL rebuild since you destroyed a piston. I suspect there is a lot more wrong. I ended up doing a FULL rebuild and glad I did. I found a bad bearing on balance shaft and a stretched oil pump chain (see other video) which would have grenaded the engine. I checked the Polaris spec for ring gap, and the Wiseco ring gap specs. I used the Weisco spec…. Since it was their pistons and rings. The 900 burns oil for 2 main reasons. The rings and the intake valve guides. Your old rings will be very worn with a huge gap. That’s the source for most of the oil usage. The valve guides add to it. I tried valve seals first, but it made little difference. When I saw the ring gap it was obvious. Also when I had the valve guides done they showed me my valves. The edges were sharp as a knife. This means they are worn out. So I had those replaces and went ahead and did the springs as well, so a full rebuild on head. I think the engine had less than 3500 miles on it when I got it. So you can have major oil burning in a short time. I now have over 4000 miles on rebuild and everything is working fine. I credit that to the air system (see other video). I no longer get any dust in the engine, and it runs cooler as well as belt is cooler.
@@swalesutubeyou can hone plated cylinders in fact you need to hone them if the cross hatch is worn away which mine were on one side.You just have to use the right hone which I have. I’m trying to do this in frame and it is a huge pain. Wishing I’d have just bought a reman and the R&R’d it but here we are. The intake boots were/are famous for sucking in dirt and taking out the rings. That’s why Polaris has updated the boots twice now. (Mine is a 2015 model year). What happens is people don’t maintain them and change the air filters then the engine has to suck air somewhere so the intake boots are the path of least resistance. In my case it actually leaned the mixture out enough to melt the exhaust side of the piston away. Slightly damaged the surface in the exhaust valves so I replaced those. The oil looked really clean. It’s not mind it’s my neighbours and he never checked the air filter in 3200 miles. Hard to believe people spend that much on a new machine then run it until failure.
Yes, I am aware of the “right hone”, but it doesn’t take much to burn thru. When I checked my cylinder there were a few areas that were already burn thru… before honing. All things considered I would just replace the cylinder as it is cheap compared to all the components you have to replace if you are wrong. Head bolts, gaskets, etc add up to enough cost to just replace the cylinder.
Awesome explanation videos. Thank you. You got new subscriber.
Thanks for the feedback!
Installing now and wanting to do the same but slightly different config between two batteries... but sounds like same issue which is grrrrrrr bad... I think. [Onan 4K EVAP Generator + EC-AGS+] I want to START the generator with my 12V RV battery (AGM with 450 CCA), but want the trigger battery to be SOC of my 48V EG4 system battery bank. I am not using my generator for RV inversion power... but to connect to EG4 Chargeverter connected to power my EG4 48V battery bank (5.12kWh x2). With what you found... I'm wondering/researching if can use wire(s?) from EG4 3K inverter dry contact to the EC-AGS+ to then use Red wire connected to 12V battery to start the Gen. Phewwwww.... I don't know... we'll see. -Mike
That might work. I wish the lithium batteries or shunts would have an output that would mimic what a flooded battery voltage would be. So if Lithium is at 50% it would report 12.1 volts over a special output wire. This would eliminate a lot of problems when using many accessories. It seems like a simple function they could incorporate. It would help the built in battery monitors in most coaches read accurately when switching the Lithiums. It would help this gen start with the start on voltage feature.
Thank you very much!!!
Glad it helped.
Fantastic video! Great information! I too am interested in this device but Onan R&D has come up a bit short it appears... The threshold for keeping the gateway/app active and the temp control issues are keeping me on the bench for now. There absolutely should be a high temp/low temp control point and the programming should allow for a cool down period once the low temp is achieved. Sub'd to your channel in hope of an update video....provided Onan listens to their customers.. Thanks!
I hope to get with Onan R&D to discuss my recommendations. The unit is still usable once you understand how it works, that’s why I did the video. I was mainly concerned with temperature control as I have solar to keep batteries charged. A few software tweaks and this could be a solid system.
Hello, Are you interested in testing our products? We would like to invite you to test the Phone Holder for your RZR XP 900
Our fridge just quit cooling but the freezer is at 32. All fuses are good. I am at a lose is to what to do next. We are on the road so cannot take it to a shop and wait weeks to get it back. I have not pulled the unit out. Any ideas would be helpful.
I had a similar problem. I ended up unplugging all connections in the control panel behind the fridge and plugging them back in. Surprisingly that worked. My plan was just to test the thermister (ohms test), and it tested ok. I figured I would check all the plugs connections while in there. There must have been a bad connection because mine has now been working for over a year. Give it a try.
I was really hoping you actually showed this idea
Maybe on the next rebuild. Many have used this method… see comments. It works, but you will probably discover a full rebuild is in order. That’s what happened in my case. Found a bad bearing and chains were stretched.
Failed miserably is an understatement. I’m fighting this right now. My bell housings out and I’m struggling. lol I have a couple different things coming to try. Can you switch it to the gen 2 cover with one bolt
Great Video I tried 2nd step again an it worked this time!!! Next step was going to buy a starter which would’ve sucked!!! Great video!!!
I bought the same brand, only mine is 16". $36 on Amazon. I found the same thing about the amps. Startup was about 10+ amps, runs about 6 or 7... Great video. I put mine on my very large lawn tractor. (Steiner 450)
What thickness glass do you use?
Honestly don’t remember. It was whatever fit the thickness of the frame. It was laminated glass… always use that for safety.
This is exactly the video I needed thank you.
Amazing job
Just dumb, if you need a fan you may be ridin in too hot of weather. There's cooler seasons like winter, fall and spring. Summer is for boating. 😂.
I have the same fan does anyone know why mine blows the wrong way instead of blowing air out it sucks air in and no matter how I wire it it won’t blow air out only suck air in
Its wired backwards. they are push pull fans depending on the way you wire it.
Can you flip the fan over? You might need longer bolts, or make a bracket.
No crank no start but could hear something engage in the engine bay. I pressed on the relay on she started right up
Got a 👍 from me & subbed, the mesh wire as a mount is a EXCELLENT idea not only for a safety issue but also because such is WONDERFUL as a mount because you have so many options to mount it and other stuff because of the availability of holes that you DON'T have to drill, I want to do the same on a smaller scale to put in front of my Hot Florida driven Air cooled Honda 300 , so if you don't mind I may like to connect more directly with you about my project, I'm a electrical idiot, thanks for your production
Great video. What brand of fan is that? Could you post make, model and or part numbers for the fan switch and the speed on control? Thank you
Eggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggslent video and content. Thanx for sharing. You Rock!!
Thanks for the feedback, hope your windshield turn out great!
I have this issue but it only happens when it's cold out (< 60 deg. F). Kept turning the ignition switch on and off, and it finally started. Changed the starter solenoid on the passenger fender well and it worked, until today when it's somewhat cold out again. Any suggestions?
@swalesutube it was a no crank/starter turn over issue. I recently replaced the starter solenoid, cleaned all of the ground connections and the starter connections in addition to the start relay. Hopefully this will be the fix. I'll see when it gets cold again. The only thing left is the start switch and the starter itself.
This will be try #2 first time damaged a ring..Any one near me in needles ca.. that could help out a fellow rider please let me know thanks 4 the video ..
Make sure to check the ring gap first. I had to properly gap mine. Use lots of oil on cylinder and rings and work slow. Let us know how it goes.
Very nice!!
Thanks!
So after 3 years how has it performed?
Excellent video
You my friend are hard core nice work
Thanks 😆
really like your windshield design!!! what type of glass company did you use? something like an auto glass repair/replace or some general purpose glass company?
Just want to ask a question because you probably know. When pressuring the cylinder with air you must keep the piston from moving down right? I used blocks of wood to keep the primary clutch from moving which I'm pretty sure kept the crank from being able to move. This is what I plan to do for changing the valve seals. How did you keep the crank/piston(s) from moving. And do you know the diameter of the spring retainers?
Not sure of the diameter. I used a piece of conduit, I think it was 1/2 inch.
@@swalesutube thanks for your prompt responses! I realized I can just use a normal spring compressor adapter set and wood fulcrum. Do you mind telling me how you strapped the primary clutch and to what? Like did you go through it and strap to something or around it and to something? I hope the wood blocks was alright. It seemed to work okay but if one came dislodged for any reason it could F me up.
@@swalesutube definitely will do thanks. I would be the ones I'm working with will be stuck too. It's actually a friend's 2012 RZR900 not mine. Smoking a lot on startup and throttle application. Starts and seems to run good but I haven't ran it more than a little bit in a parking lot. I thought the compression would be low and leak test reveal rebuild percentages but it was actually 9 and 3.5%. I thought the compression readings were low for a warmed up engine though. And by the amount of dirt in the filter and sucked into the intake I thought it would have really bad condition intake valves but I won't know for sure unless I take the head off. I saw a video of an xp1000 turbo where he had a spot in the valve train where the cam lobes weren't pushing on any of the buckets. He marked the cam sprockets to the chain and put it back the same way without separating them. He replaced one head bolt at a time then put it back together and it ran just fine. I was going to attempt it that way so I didn't have to separate cams and sprockets or turn the engine multiple times or move the cams multiple times to get the timing back right. Idk I should probably just follow the book and not do it the other way because it might leave room for the valve to drop if I should lose air pressure. As long as I block the primary I shouldn't though.
With that new info I have some recommends. You will definitely need new rings and most likely new intake valves seats and valves. If you are smoking that is what it will be. I started trying the valves seals, but it made little difference. My rings were very worn and the intake valves edges were razor sharp. I ended up just doing a full rebuild. Watch my other videos for thing I found… like the oils chain stretched. Also the balance shaft bearings were grooved and would have failed eventually. At the minimum I would pull the head and replace valve seats and valves, then put in new rings. I have a video showing how to do the rings without pulling the engine.
@@swalesutube this is what I was trying to tell the guy. The leakage test wasn't 20% or more but the compression readings at 180° were 196-220 on both cylinders. Idk why I was getting that much variance. Digital gauge maybe? But yeah the leak down was 9% left cylinder and 3.5 right cylinder. I was going to buy an expensive seat cutting set and get him new valves too but he just wants the seals done...
Any issues?
I've got that same book
How is your splitter hooked up I have one just like it but no coaxial connected
From the antennae booster to the splitter. Each TV has coax that goes to splitter. The RCA to coax box allows the Wally to send from RCA (because bedroom and outside TV do not have HDMI, so they use coax (which goes to splitter). So if antennae booster is off the Wally will display on channel 3. If booster is on then it is using antennae for over the air TV.
That's impressive!
Mine is reading 28ohms, so i assume this is the culprit. It lights but the flame is very small.
cool project. you did a really nice job. I hope it turns out this nice when I do it
Thanks for the compliment. It has worked out great and keeps the winch looking like new. Good luck with your project!
What a coincidence.. family is sitting here about a thousand miles from home… sitting at a gas pump in the middle of Wyoming because our rv isnt starting
Hope the video has a solution… let us know what it turns out to be.