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You should be fine with starting the generator on a lithium. Your only challenge will be if you want to use the start on battery voltage option. You will need to determine when your voltage starts to drop on low state of charge. This is narrower than with a flooded/AGM battery. Hopefully you have a shunt that will show you the state of charge. This will help you figure that voltage out.

@@arthemmingson2439 I showed a close up of the PMW controller. There are many on EBAY matching the specs I mentioned. Vendors come and go, so a link would already be gone. As far as a fan, measure the space you have and get the largest that fit in that space as it will move more air than a smaller fan.

I don’t think the product is a failure… just a work in progress. A couple software improvements and it will be even better.

Thanks. Glad it helped you get back on the road… safe travels.

I have never seen one that winds from the top. All mine wind from bottom. I think the key is what is in line with the fair lead. I also verified my Warn winch and it winds in from bottom. I would unspool yours and check what the drum says to confirm yours is correct. It should have an indication on the drum.

Most winches wind from the bottom. www.google.com/search?q=prioer%20winch%20winding%20top%20or%20bottom&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&client=firefox-b-1-m

Story sounded familiar, brought back nightmares :). Glad it helped you figure it out… safe travels!

How do you reset the relay?

Possibly the PMW cannot deliver the amps needed to start the fan.

Would be terrible for heat. Most of the heat comes from under the dash area because that’s where the radiator blow it.., and the hoses run under the floor. Plus, where does it get the fresh air? You would just be blowing dust and heat around. You MUST get fresh air from above the fan if you want it to work properly. Make sure to get the LARGEST fan you can fit, so you can run it slower rpm and the noise it not bad.

Intake boots were fine. Most likely the previous owner did not take care of air filter and oil changes. DO NOT hone the cylinder as it has a coating that honing will destroy. Sounds like you should be doing a FULL rebuild since you destroyed a piston. I suspect there is a lot more wrong. I ended up doing a FULL rebuild and glad I did. I found a bad bearing on balance shaft and a stretched oil pump chain (see other video) which would have grenaded the engine. I checked the Polaris spec for ring gap, and the Wiseco ring gap specs. I used the Weisco spec…. Since it was their pistons and rings. The 900 burns oil for 2 main reasons. The rings and the intake valve guides. Your old rings will be very worn with a huge gap. That’s the source for most of the oil usage. The valve guides add to it. I tried valve seals first, but it made little difference. When I saw the ring gap it was obvious. Also when I had the valve guides done they showed me my valves. The edges were sharp as a knife. This means they are worn out. So I had those replaces and went ahead and did the springs as well, so a full rebuild on head. I think the engine had less than 3500 miles on it when I got it. So you can have major oil burning in a short time. I now have over 4000 miles on rebuild and everything is working fine. I credit that to the air system (see other video). I no longer get any dust in the engine, and it runs cooler as well as belt is cooler.

@@swalesutubeyou can hone plated cylinders in fact you need to hone them if the cross hatch is worn away which mine were on one side.You just have to use the right hone which I have. I’m trying to do this in frame and it is a huge pain. Wishing I’d have just bought a reman and the R&R’d it but here we are. The intake boots were/are famous for sucking in dirt and taking out the rings. That’s why Polaris has updated the boots twice now. (Mine is a 2015 model year). What happens is people don’t maintain them and change the air filters then the engine has to suck air somewhere so the intake boots are the path of least resistance. In my case it actually leaned the mixture out enough to melt the exhaust side of the piston away. Slightly damaged the surface in the exhaust valves so I replaced those. The oil looked really clean. It’s not mind it’s my neighbours and he never checked the air filter in 3200 miles. Hard to believe people spend that much on a new machine then run it until failure.

Yes, I am aware of the “right hone”, but it doesn’t take much to burn thru. When I checked my cylinder there were a few areas that were already burn thru… before honing. All things considered I would just replace the cylinder as it is cheap compared to all the components you have to replace if you are wrong. Head bolts, gaskets, etc add up to enough cost to just replace the cylinder.

Thanks for the feedback!

That might work. I wish the lithium batteries or shunts would have an output that would mimic what a flooded battery voltage would be. So if Lithium is at 50% it would report 12.1 volts over a special output wire. This would eliminate a lot of problems when using many accessories. It seems like a simple function they could incorporate. It would help the built in battery monitors in most coaches read accurately when switching the Lithiums. It would help this gen start with the start on voltage feature.

Glad it helped.

I hope to get with Onan R&D to discuss my recommendations. The unit is still usable once you understand how it works, that’s why I did the video. I was mainly concerned with temperature control as I have solar to keep batteries charged. A few software tweaks and this could be a solid system.

I had a similar problem. I ended up unplugging all connections in the control panel behind the fridge and plugging them back in. Surprisingly that worked. My plan was just to test the thermister (ohms test), and it tested ok. I figured I would check all the plugs connections while in there. There must have been a bad connection because mine has now been working for over a year. Give it a try.

Maybe on the next rebuild. Many have used this method… see comments. It works, but you will probably discover a full rebuild is in order. That’s what happened in my case. Found a bad bearing and chains were stretched.

Honestly don’t remember. It was whatever fit the thickness of the frame. It was laminated glass… always use that for safety.

Its wired backwards. they are push pull fans depending on the way you wire it.

Can you flip the fan over? You might need longer bolts, or make a bracket.

Thanks for the feedback, hope your windshield turn out great!

@swalesutube it was a no crank/starter turn over issue. I recently replaced the starter solenoid, cleaned all of the ground connections and the starter connections in addition to the start relay. Hopefully this will be the fix. I'll see when it gets cold again. The only thing left is the start switch and the starter itself.

Make sure to check the ring gap first. I had to properly gap mine. Use lots of oil on cylinder and rings and work slow. Let us know how it goes.

Thanks!

Thanks 😆

Not sure of the diameter. I used a piece of conduit, I think it was 1/2 inch.

@@swalesutube thanks for your prompt responses! I realized I can just use a normal spring compressor adapter set and wood fulcrum. Do you mind telling me how you strapped the primary clutch and to what? Like did you go through it and strap to something or around it and to something? I hope the wood blocks was alright. It seemed to work okay but if one came dislodged for any reason it could F me up.

@@swalesutube definitely will do thanks. I would be the ones I'm working with will be stuck too. It's actually a friend's 2012 RZR900 not mine. Smoking a lot on startup and throttle application. Starts and seems to run good but I haven't ran it more than a little bit in a parking lot. I thought the compression would be low and leak test reveal rebuild percentages but it was actually 9 and 3.5%. I thought the compression readings were low for a warmed up engine though. And by the amount of dirt in the filter and sucked into the intake I thought it would have really bad condition intake valves but I won't know for sure unless I take the head off. I saw a video of an xp1000 turbo where he had a spot in the valve train where the cam lobes weren't pushing on any of the buckets. He marked the cam sprockets to the chain and put it back the same way without separating them. He replaced one head bolt at a time then put it back together and it ran just fine. I was going to attempt it that way so I didn't have to separate cams and sprockets or turn the engine multiple times or move the cams multiple times to get the timing back right. Idk I should probably just follow the book and not do it the other way because it might leave room for the valve to drop if I should lose air pressure. As long as I block the primary I shouldn't though.

With that new info I have some recommends. You will definitely need new rings and most likely new intake valves seats and valves. If you are smoking that is what it will be. I started trying the valves seals, but it made little difference. My rings were very worn and the intake valves edges were razor sharp. I ended up just doing a full rebuild. Watch my other videos for thing I found… like the oils chain stretched. Also the balance shaft bearings were grooved and would have failed eventually. At the minimum I would pull the head and replace valve seats and valves, then put in new rings. I have a video showing how to do the rings without pulling the engine.

@@swalesutube this is what I was trying to tell the guy. The leakage test wasn't 20% or more but the compression readings at 180° were 196-220 on both cylinders. Idk why I was getting that much variance. Digital gauge maybe? But yeah the leak down was 9% left cylinder and 3.5 right cylinder. I was going to buy an expensive seat cutting set and get him new valves too but he just wants the seals done...

From the antennae booster to the splitter. Each TV has coax that goes to splitter. The RCA to coax box allows the Wally to send from RCA (because bedroom and outside TV do not have HDMI, so they use coax (which goes to splitter). So if antennae booster is off the Wally will display on channel 3. If booster is on then it is using antennae for over the air TV.

Thanks for the compliment. It has worked out great and keeps the winch looking like new. Good luck with your project!

Hope the video has a solution… let us know what it turns out to be.