Just completed a 3 week trip and fridge performed great. Stayed at 34 degrees on display fully packed. The fans working made a huge improvement, I was typically 38 to 40 degrees before.
Thanks for this video! From the surrounding cabinetry, etc., it looks like we have the same RV. When it's hot outside I can hear the fan(s) running, but I never saw them. Now I know where they are! Mine is also currently having trouble keeping the fridge under 40, though the freezer seems fine. I do have one of those little plastic Camco fans inside, but maybe I'll try tapping on the coils.
@@swalesutube It's very possible tapping helped mine, too. I hadn't seen the low 30s for a few days. I tapped on the coils this morning, went out for a few hours this afternoon, and when I came back, the display showed 33 degrees! I also have the fan pointing toward the fins as you described, so maybe that helped, too. By the way, do you know where the white hose that's connected to the condensate drain hose ends up? I'm curious to see if it has the check valve, but I can't figure out where it ends. I suppose I could disconnect it and pour some water in to see where it drips, but haven't tried that yet. (I have a 2013 Fleetwood Bounder 35K).
@@PaulEppley Funny you should ask about the white hose. I was also curious about it. I followed it under the refrigerator and saw that it heads toward the rear of the coach. Unfortunately I never found where it ends. It is possible it ties in with the mid bathroom grey water drain as there is no exit hose under coach.
@@PaulEppley Hopefully you are aware of the stupid defrost mode on this refrigerator. When you first turn it on it runs for 40hrs and then does a defrost cycle. Dometic suggest turning it on mid day so the defrost happens at nite. It then does defrosts every 24 hrs. You can override this by turning refrigerator off for 2 minutes. It then resets to the 40 hr til defrost. Do every day or two to keep it cold.
@@swalesutube Yes, indeed! Initially I thought this might be the problem I was having. The service manual I downloaded doesn't say 40 hours, though; it said 60 hours. So it suggests first turning the fridge on between 4 PM and 10 PM. It says the defrost lasts for 120 minutes and repeats every 48 hours, not 24. I thought maybe my control board was bad and it was defrosting randomly or maybe even stuck in the defrost mode. Now I don't think so, and here's why. After my apparent initial success with tapping the coils, unfortunately the temperature rose again. However, I noticed a fairly significant stream of cold air coming from between the fridge doors at the bottom. I'm now convinced that my problem is the rubber gaskets are sometimes insufficiently sealing. That would explain alot, including the apparent random nature of the problem. I stuffed some foam pipe insulation between the doors, and sure enough, the temperature dropped to 33! Now I just have to figure out a more permanent solution. Honestly, I think the whole door design is very poor, from that flap on the left door to the handles that are supposed to keep the doors closed.
Our fridge just quit cooling but the freezer is at 32. All fuses are good. I am at a lose is to what to do next. We are on the road so cannot take it to a shop and wait weeks to get it back. I have not pulled the unit out. Any ideas would be helpful.
I had a similar problem. I ended up unplugging all connections in the control panel behind the fridge and plugging them back in. Surprisingly that worked. My plan was just to test the thermister (ohms test), and it tested ok. I figured I would check all the plugs connections while in there. There must have been a bad connection because mine has now been working for over a year. Give it a try.
Make sure you are using a small fan to blow on the fins in the refer section. Being an absorption fridge it removes heat rather than blowing in cold air. The small fan makes a huge difference by circulating the air. When the freezer is around 5 degrees the refer should be in the mid 30s.
It’s also possible your fridge has built up crystals inside the tubes. Tap on the coils with a hammer, but not too hard. Better yet if you can remove the fridge, turn it upside down for 24hrs and tap the coils every few hours to break up crystals. Then reinstall and wait an hour or so. Should help.
So I have this same fridge (minus the ice maker). It was working for for several weeks, and all of a sudden the fridge and freezer are no longer cooling. I can hear the fans running outside, the gas runs, the electricity runs, but the unit is not cooling. No error codes on the display or anything. I'm desperately trying to find a video showing how to fix this, and I'm not finding one. No wires appear to be loose in the back, there's no yellow ammonia leakage, etc. I'm looking at the service manual and it doesn't even have a "no cool" section. Just "not working on gas, or not working on electric".. IT's not working on either. (well its running but not cooling the box) Ideas on where to start? Oh, and I was above it and yes it's hot at the upper coils, I can feel the fans trying to cool the unit off. I'm just dumbfounded that the unit appears to be running, but it seems to be actually heating the inside of the fridge and freezer instead of cooling them off.
Sounds like tubes could be clogged up. Try tapping (hard but not too hard) on all coils you can reach. Don’t hit so hard you bend tubes or break joints. This fixed mine awhile back. It won’t be a permanent fix, but mine still good over a year.
Another fix I have read about is to remove fridge, turn upside down for 24hrs, then reinstall. It settles the different chemicals back to the right places.
@@swalesutube I'll give this a shot. I did find some old forum with a similar issue and their unit was replaced by Dometic. But mine is out of W so I'll defiantly need to try what I can. Turning the fridge upside down would be a trip! lol. I think they are in excess of 225 lbs.
Worst case you can replace the cooling unit ($850 approx) and it can be done DIY. You can also convert to a 12v or 120v compressor cooling unit ($1250 approx). That’s far less expensive than a new unit.
We are full timing in our 2020 Keystone Cougar fifth wheel. I've been having a terrible time getting my dometic Rm1350smlx to run. About 2 months ago, it gradually stopped cooling in the fridge but still working ok in the freezer. We checked fuses and wires with ohm and tic meter, all seemed ok. I realized though the fans and inside light were both not working. Found the blasted hidden 5amp fuse under that mass of wires in the power control. Replaced it and fan/light came back on, but after 2 days on, no cooling to any part of the unit. So we replaced the thermistor. Still nothing. Enter head scratch. ....called the technician..... he replaced thermostat and rerouted the thermistor to the 100degree temps outside in effort to force unit to cool....it worked. However, still was only getting 40 degree cooling on level 5 (coldest setting). He replaced everything on his second visit. 5 hours after he left and I paid him, the 5 amp fuse blew again. I replaced it, and it blew again when I turned the switch on. Called the tech again.....he came back out and unplugged the heating coils to the front of the unit that controls door condensation (which is laughable that this unit even had because I was constantly for 3 years wiping the condensation off). He said hopefully it will work. ( the reading was very low for this heat thing so he figured it might be tripping the fuse). Guess what? A day later I open the door to the fridge to check the temps and ...bang! There goes the fuse again. I cant afford another tech. This guy had to come out 3 times and was still scratching his head when he left. I dont know what it could be at this point. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I am having to live out of the coolers right now......ugh....... What in the world could possibly cause the fuse to continually instantaneously blow? Can I run this unit if I buy an external fan that directly plugs in to the wall? Help!!!!
The manual says: “The main control board has two fuses. The 3 amp DC fuse is designed to protect the circuit board from internal/ external DC shorts. The 5 amp AC fuse is designed to protect the integrity of the AC detection and heater circuit from shorts. There is also a wire with a 4 amp fuse from the terminal block to an external relay for the fans and water line heater.” So it seems it’s the 5 amp AC fuse. Does it blow fuses when on LP gas mode? If not maybe the electric heating elements have a short and need replaced. There are 2 heating elements in series. You can ohm them out with a meter. Just disconnect the leads and put the meter on the leads. It should read 34.3 ohms plus or minus 10%.
Also, you need a small fan on the inside of the fridge pointing to the fins on the back. This makes a HUGE difference in cooling. Mine was at 40 degrees in fridge and with fan it hold 34 degrees now.
Ok so checked for ohms reading on the heat elements and is reading 34.9. I did another ohms reading of the two pronged flap heater switch and it is reading only .03.....nothing.
Actually..... I had the meter not set correctly for the door flap heater prongs. So correct reading is 27 ohms. You think maybe the interior light could cause ????
The door flap heater should be 29 ohms +- 10%, so it seems ok. I would definitely check the bulb. Was it changed? Also remember that if voltage is low the amp draw goes up. So maybe your 120 AC is low or your 12v DC is low. Check grounds and battery connections.
It is not adjustable. It is preset at a specific temperature. When it gets hot enough it closes and completes the circuit so the fan comes on. I installed a manual switch so I could override it and run the fan all the time when it is hot outside.
@@lisaloprestodehart1606 yes there might be a temp sensor inside the fridge that clips onto the fins in the back of the fridge. Move it up higher to make fridge colder, or lower it to make warmer. If it has gone bad the fridge might get too cold. Use a kitchen thermometer to see how cold it is getting. Around 34 degrees is good.
@@lisaloprestodehart1606 is it below freezing outside? That drain hose is directly open to the outside temperatures. It will let cold air in during winter and hot air in summer. It is best to put a U shape in the hose, like a P trap in plumbing. That way the small amount of water keeps the air out.
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Just completed a 3 week trip and fridge performed great. Stayed at 34 degrees on display fully packed. The fans working made a huge improvement, I was typically 38 to 40 degrees before.
Thanks for this video! From the surrounding cabinetry, etc., it looks like we have the same RV. When it's hot outside I can hear the fan(s) running, but I never saw them. Now I know where they are!
Mine is also currently having trouble keeping the fridge under 40, though the freezer seems fine. I do have one of those little plastic Camco fans inside, but maybe I'll try tapping on the coils.
Put the camco fan on the top shelf so it points directly at the fins. Tapping on coils really helped mine.
@@swalesutube It's very possible tapping helped mine, too. I hadn't seen the low 30s for a few days. I tapped on the coils this morning, went out for a few hours this afternoon, and when I came back, the display showed 33 degrees! I also have the fan pointing toward the fins as you described, so maybe that helped, too.
By the way, do you know where the white hose that's connected to the condensate drain hose ends up? I'm curious to see if it has the check valve, but I can't figure out where it ends. I suppose I could disconnect it and pour some water in to see where it drips, but haven't tried that yet. (I have a 2013 Fleetwood Bounder 35K).
@@PaulEppley Funny you should ask about the white hose. I was also curious about it. I followed it under the refrigerator and saw that it heads toward the rear of the coach. Unfortunately I never found where it ends. It is possible it ties in with the mid bathroom grey water drain as there is no exit hose under coach.
@@PaulEppley Hopefully you are aware of the stupid defrost mode on this refrigerator. When you first turn it on it runs for 40hrs and then does a defrost cycle. Dometic suggest turning it on mid day so the defrost happens at nite. It then does defrosts every 24 hrs. You can override this by turning refrigerator off for 2 minutes. It then resets to the 40 hr til defrost. Do every day or two to keep it cold.
@@swalesutube Yes, indeed! Initially I thought this might be the problem I was having. The service manual I downloaded doesn't say 40 hours, though; it said 60 hours. So it suggests first turning the fridge on between 4 PM and 10 PM. It says the defrost lasts for 120 minutes and repeats every 48 hours, not 24. I thought maybe my control board was bad and it was defrosting randomly or maybe even stuck in the defrost mode. Now I don't think so, and here's why.
After my apparent initial success with tapping the coils, unfortunately the temperature rose again. However, I noticed a fairly significant stream of cold air coming from between the fridge doors at the bottom. I'm now convinced that my problem is the rubber gaskets are sometimes insufficiently sealing. That would explain alot, including the apparent random nature of the problem. I stuffed some foam pipe insulation between the doors, and sure enough, the temperature dropped to 33! Now I just have to figure out a more permanent solution. Honestly, I think the whole door design is very poor, from that flap on the left door to the handles that are supposed to keep the doors closed.
Thank you, great information if I end up having to remove mine!
Our fridge just quit cooling but the freezer is at 32. All fuses are good. I am at a lose is to what to do next. We are on the road so cannot take it to a shop and wait weeks to get it back. I have not pulled the unit out. Any ideas would be helpful.
I had a similar problem. I ended up unplugging all connections in the control panel behind the fridge and plugging them back in. Surprisingly that worked. My plan was just to test the thermister (ohms test), and it tested ok. I figured I would check all the plugs connections while in there. There must have been a bad connection because mine has now been working for over a year. Give it a try.
Any thoughts on what would cause the freezer to get cold but not the lower fresh food section on that type refrigerator
Make sure you are using a small fan to blow on the fins in the refer section. Being an absorption fridge it removes heat rather than blowing in cold air. The small fan makes a huge difference by circulating the air. When the freezer is around 5 degrees the refer should be in the mid 30s.
It’s also possible your fridge has built up crystals inside the tubes. Tap on the coils with a hammer, but not too hard. Better yet if you can remove the fridge, turn it upside down for 24hrs and tap the coils every few hours to break up crystals. Then reinstall and wait an hour or so. Should help.
So I have this same fridge (minus the ice maker). It was working for for several weeks, and all of a sudden the fridge and freezer are no longer cooling. I can hear the fans running outside, the gas runs, the electricity runs, but the unit is not cooling. No error codes on the display or anything. I'm desperately trying to find a video showing how to fix this, and I'm not finding one. No wires appear to be loose in the back, there's no yellow ammonia leakage, etc. I'm looking at the service manual and it doesn't even have a "no cool" section. Just "not working on gas, or not working on electric".. IT's not working on either. (well its running but not cooling the box) Ideas on where to start? Oh, and I was above it and yes it's hot at the upper coils, I can feel the fans trying to cool the unit off. I'm just dumbfounded that the unit appears to be running, but it seems to be actually heating the inside of the fridge and freezer instead of cooling them off.
Sounds like tubes could be clogged up. Try tapping (hard but not too hard) on all coils you can reach. Don’t hit so hard you bend tubes or break joints. This fixed mine awhile back. It won’t be a permanent fix, but mine still good over a year.
Another fix I have read about is to remove fridge, turn upside down for 24hrs, then reinstall. It settles the different chemicals back to the right places.
@@swalesutube I'll give this a shot. I did find some old forum with a similar issue and their unit was replaced by Dometic. But mine is out of W so I'll defiantly need to try what I can. Turning the fridge upside down would be a trip! lol. I think they are in excess of 225 lbs.
Worst case you can replace the cooling unit ($850 approx) and it can be done DIY. You can also convert to a 12v or 120v compressor cooling unit ($1250 approx). That’s far less expensive than a new unit.
@@swalesutube Welp tapping on the back of the unit has killed it. It won't even turn on now. :(
Do you know why the defrost tray inside and the drain hole freezes up?
We are full timing in our 2020 Keystone Cougar fifth wheel. I've been having a terrible time getting my dometic Rm1350smlx to run. About 2 months ago, it gradually stopped cooling in the fridge but still working ok in the freezer. We checked fuses and wires with ohm and tic meter, all seemed ok. I realized though the fans and inside light were both not working. Found the blasted hidden 5amp fuse under that mass of wires in the power control. Replaced it and fan/light came back on, but after 2 days on, no cooling to any part of the unit. So we replaced the thermistor. Still nothing. Enter head scratch. ....called the technician..... he replaced thermostat and rerouted the thermistor to the 100degree temps outside in effort to force unit to cool....it worked. However, still was only getting 40 degree cooling on level 5 (coldest setting).
He replaced everything on his second visit. 5 hours after he left and I paid him, the 5 amp fuse blew again. I replaced it, and it blew again when I turned the switch on. Called the tech again.....he came back out and unplugged the heating coils to the front of the unit that controls door condensation (which is laughable that this unit even had because I was constantly for 3 years wiping the condensation off).
He said hopefully it will work. ( the reading was very low for this heat thing so he figured it might be tripping the fuse). Guess what? A day later I open the door to the fridge to check the temps and ...bang! There goes the fuse again. I cant afford another tech. This guy had to come out 3 times and was still scratching his head when he left. I dont know what it could be at this point. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I am having to live out of the coolers right now......ugh.......
What in the world could possibly cause the fuse to continually instantaneously blow?
Can I run this unit if I buy an external fan that directly plugs in to the wall?
Help!!!!
The manual says: “The main control board has two fuses. The 3 amp DC fuse is designed to protect the circuit board from internal/ external DC shorts. The 5 amp AC fuse is designed to protect the integrity of the AC detection and heater circuit from shorts. There is also a wire with a 4 amp fuse from the terminal block to an external relay for the fans and water line heater.”
So it seems it’s the 5 amp AC fuse. Does it blow fuses when on LP gas mode? If not maybe the electric heating elements have a short and need replaced. There are 2 heating elements in series. You can ohm them out with a meter. Just disconnect the leads and put the meter on the leads. It should read 34.3 ohms plus or minus 10%.
Also, you need a small fan on the inside of the fridge pointing to the fins on the back. This makes a HUGE difference in cooling. Mine was at 40 degrees in fridge and with fan it hold 34 degrees now.
Ok so checked for ohms reading on the heat elements and is reading 34.9. I did another ohms reading of the two pronged flap heater switch and it is reading only .03.....nothing.
Actually..... I had the meter not set correctly for the door flap heater prongs. So correct reading is 27 ohms. You think maybe the interior light could cause ????
The door flap heater should be 29 ohms +- 10%, so it seems ok. I would definitely check the bulb. Was it changed? Also remember that if voltage is low the amp draw goes up. So maybe your 120 AC is low or your 12v DC is low. Check grounds and battery connections.
Also the thermostat adjustment thing at the top how does that work? Does it adjust if in its colder or out colder?
It is not adjustable. It is preset at a specific temperature. When it gets hot enough it closes and completes the circuit so the fan comes on. I installed a manual switch so I could override it and run the fan all the time when it is hot outside.
@@swalesutube it's hard to explain but it's the white cord in fridge that's attached up top. Is that not a temp control?
@@swalesutube do you happen to know why the fridge keeps freezing at drain hole and in the tray all around it?
@@lisaloprestodehart1606 yes there might be a temp sensor inside the fridge that clips onto the fins in the back of the fridge. Move it up higher to make fridge colder, or lower it to make warmer. If it has gone bad the fridge might get too cold. Use a kitchen thermometer to see how cold it is getting. Around 34 degrees is good.
@@lisaloprestodehart1606 is it below freezing outside? That drain hose is directly open to the outside temperatures. It will let cold air in during winter and hot air in summer. It is best to put a U shape in the hose, like a P trap in plumbing. That way the small amount of water keeps the air out.
Why I am not getting power to my fans on a demedic RM1350SLMX
Check the relay on back of fridge. Mine was bad and caused fans not to run. You can get one at auto parts store.
I hate and lathe this fridge