Just want to ask a question because you probably know. When pressuring the cylinder with air you must keep the piston from moving down right? I used blocks of wood to keep the primary clutch from moving which I'm pretty sure kept the crank from being able to move. This is what I plan to do for changing the valve seals. How did you keep the crank/piston(s) from moving. And do you know the diameter of the spring retainers?
@@swalesutube thanks for your prompt responses! I realized I can just use a normal spring compressor adapter set and wood fulcrum. Do you mind telling me how you strapped the primary clutch and to what? Like did you go through it and strap to something or around it and to something? I hope the wood blocks was alright. It seemed to work okay but if one came dislodged for any reason it could F me up.
I went around the primary with the strap. The second time I did it (another story) I just used a pry bar through the primary to frame. Both methods worked. Don’t worry, you are over thinking it. The air pressure will hold the valve up even if the crank moves a little. Just make sure you are at TDC for the cylinder, then if air would fail the valve cannot drop too low to retrieve. Make sure you follow the video tip of hitting the top of the valve stem first… to pop the keepers loose.
@@swalesutube definitely will do thanks. I would be the ones I'm working with will be stuck too. It's actually a friend's 2012 RZR900 not mine. Smoking a lot on startup and throttle application. Starts and seems to run good but I haven't ran it more than a little bit in a parking lot. I thought the compression would be low and leak test reveal rebuild percentages but it was actually 9 and 3.5%. I thought the compression readings were low for a warmed up engine though. And by the amount of dirt in the filter and sucked into the intake I thought it would have really bad condition intake valves but I won't know for sure unless I take the head off. I saw a video of an xp1000 turbo where he had a spot in the valve train where the cam lobes weren't pushing on any of the buckets. He marked the cam sprockets to the chain and put it back the same way without separating them. He replaced one head bolt at a time then put it back together and it ran just fine. I was going to attempt it that way so I didn't have to separate cams and sprockets or turn the engine multiple times or move the cams multiple times to get the timing back right. Idk I should probably just follow the book and not do it the other way because it might leave room for the valve to drop if I should lose air pressure. As long as I block the primary I shouldn't though.
Just want to ask a question because you probably know. When pressuring the cylinder with air you must keep the piston from moving down right? I used blocks of wood to keep the primary clutch from moving which I'm pretty sure kept the crank from being able to move. This is what I plan to do for changing the valve seals.
How did you keep the crank/piston(s) from moving. And do you know the diameter of the spring retainers?
Yes, you need to prevent cylinder from moving. I used a strap around the primary.
Not sure of the diameter. I used a piece of conduit, I think it was 1/2 inch.
@@swalesutube thanks for your prompt responses! I realized I can just use a normal spring compressor adapter set and wood fulcrum. Do you mind telling me how you strapped the primary clutch and to what? Like did you go through it and strap to something or around it and to something? I hope the wood blocks was alright. It seemed to work okay but if one came dislodged for any reason it could F me up.
I went around the primary with the strap. The second time I did it (another story) I just used a pry bar through the primary to frame. Both methods worked. Don’t worry, you are over thinking it. The air pressure will hold the valve up even if the crank moves a little. Just make sure you are at TDC for the cylinder, then if air would fail the valve cannot drop too low to retrieve. Make sure you follow the video tip of hitting the top of the valve stem first… to pop the keepers loose.
@@swalesutube definitely will do thanks. I would be the ones I'm working with will be stuck too. It's actually a friend's 2012 RZR900 not mine. Smoking a lot on startup and throttle application. Starts and seems to run good but I haven't ran it more than a little bit in a parking lot. I thought the compression would be low and leak test reveal rebuild percentages but it was actually 9 and 3.5%. I thought the compression readings were low for a warmed up engine though. And by the amount of dirt in the filter and sucked into the intake I thought it would have really bad condition intake valves but I won't know for sure unless I take the head off. I saw a video of an xp1000 turbo where he had a spot in the valve train where the cam lobes weren't pushing on any of the buckets. He marked the cam sprockets to the chain and put it back the same way without separating them. He replaced one head bolt at a time then put it back together and it ran just fine. I was going to attempt it that way so I didn't have to separate cams and sprockets or turn the engine multiple times or move the cams multiple times to get the timing back right. Idk I should probably just follow the book and not do it the other way because it might leave room for the valve to drop if I should lose air pressure. As long as I block the primary I shouldn't though.