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@@dimitrybattesti7930 STL not available at the moment, see my reply in the other video.

The ballast was designed and printed in 3D but I am currently revising the ballast tank design. I might make it available as a WTC kit in the future.

@@oceanchaser not for sale

@@Hjerte_Verke no pitch controller installed at the time of making this video. Plus the sub is trimmed for slightly positive buoyancy.

@@mikaelronkainen1308 deepest I’ve gone is below 1.5-2 meters

@@neitoRC i assume you build your ballas tank unit yourself, how much it cost to build the ballas tank system?

@@mikaelronkainen1308 I designed the ballast tank and 3D printed it. The actual electronic parts were cheap but it took a lot of time to test and make sure the volume was right. You can check out my previous build videos of this sub for more details.

2.5in tube with 10.25 and 7.25in sections

@@neitoRC thank you.

Thanks! I was part of the Dive Tribe in 2022, but it was always tricky attending meetings from my time zone.

Thanks Robbert! I did consider reducing the snorkel vent hole but the pond is really shallow where I run, so I still prefer ballasting her positively and running at periscope depth. Might consider something similar to R&R on the next boat!

750kv

Do you have a link to the thread?

For sure, I have plans on doing such as guide for the Bronco 1/35 Type XXIII kit

@@neitoRC can't wait. Have that particular boat.

Thank you for your work on such a great kit!

I am controlling the sub on 75mhz which penetrates the water up to at least 1.5 meters. I’ve never gone deeper than that due to weeds and visibility.

There are float valves that will prevent water from going into the air intake line, the challenge is always fitting components like that in such a tight space. I will still go with a water pump conversion purely because of its simplicity and reliability.

It’s a 3D printed ballast tank so not really safe to be pressurized from the inside.

Thanks! Yes, 1/72 is certainly very tight, especially for submarines of this type. I have a Type VIIC of the same scale that I’ve yet to convert!

Try 1:144 scale i'm losing my mind trying to convert my trumpeter 1:144 gato class ​@@neitoRC

@@NuclearBomb-ow4zf difficulty increases significantly when it's a small scale. Have you considered the 1/72 Revell Gato kit?

@@neitoRC yeah i have it ain't cheap and electronic components ain't cheap either i've been eyeing the type 9 for a while because it is smaller than the Gato hence why this vid u made was interesting

@@neitoRC oiii neito where did you get an empty watertight cylinder from?

Exactly what I was thinking. Seems a bit lame to go through all the effort to make a functioning submergible system and use a 10” snorkel. So many ways to make a true air ballast system.

Thanks!

it can fully submerge using speed and diving planes, but the boat is set up such that there is always slight positive buoyancy that brings the boat up to the surface. The snort ballast system requires the snorkel to be above the water for surfacing.

Thanks! Working on modifying the WTC into a vented ballast tank system. Good old reliable water pump.

How are the Lego U-joints holding out? How about the BL motors, any problems running them wet?

Lego U-joints are running fine, BL motors are perfectly running in the wet. Routine lubrification is needed, just like with cup seals and Simmerings.

Great job! I have the same model, a polycarbonate tube, and all the electronics for two years. Your video motivates me to catch on with the project. I also fancied putting the motors outside. I also have brushless ones, but inrunners. I’d like to go as deep as 6m with a 900MHz radio. Will see if that works.

​@@ocsimano729most RC subs run at periscope depth with brief excursion down averaging around 1m maxing out at 3m. Beyond that is crush depth. Even if your WTC doesn't implode there's the risk of seals leaking flooding the wtc. Also your wtc gets compressed so much that all bouyancy is lost even if you blow ballast. How will you see to steer at that depth? Unless you're in a swimming pool or have a camera connected topside via cable you're not going to see anything.

I’ve posted videos of this running and completed on Facebook (look up The Subcommittee in FB groups). Sorry haven’t really been active on TH-cam, most of my spare time has been focused on completing projects rather than making videos.

Not planning to share the 3D files at the moment

There is a water pump that pumps water into the tank, as the tank fills, the air inside escapes through the tube, which is attached to an outlet in the periscope. When the ballast tank is fully filled, the submarine is sitting with a bit of the periscope exposed above the water. This allows air to come back into the ballast tank when the pump is emptying the tank, thereby surfacing the sub.

@@neitoRC okayy, Thank you very much friend, you have helped me a lot. 👌🏻

Not currently focused on developing this torpedo system further, but thanks for your interest!

Video Part 2 coming soon

The are called Simmerrings in Germany, otherwise known as cup seals/oil seals. You might be able to source them on ebay or from various O-ring suppliers. Personally I've stopped using them since they are hard to find here. All my current WTCs use brushless motors running in the wet.

@@neitoRC Interesting. What is your experience running the motor wet? I'm designing a motor for making micro air bubbles used in hydroponics gardening system. Trying to find a way to not have the motor be wet and spin the shaft in the water while motor is submerged.

@@Engineering_Science for brushed DC motors, I wouldn't recommend running in the wet since it really shortens the life of the motor (mineral build-up/corrosion in the brushes, etc). Brushless DC motors are better suited for running in the wet since there are no brushes making contact with the rotor. The 3-phase wiring system also prevent mineral build up at the motor terminals. I make sure to grease and lubricate the bearings on my brushless motors before and after every run, so far I've had no issues

Thanks, I'm using a GWS 6-channel transmitter on 75mhz

The conversion is complete, currently waiting for my pond to be unfrozen so I can continue with the next part of the video.