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@@brian29190 good to hear! It's too bad the garage couldn't troubleshoot it.

You're welcome!

Glad to hear it helped! That's the reason I make videos, so thanks for sharing.

You're welcome, that's good to hear! I didn't know they'd be similar.

You're welcome! I'm glad it helped.

Awesome, glad to hear it! Never seen a T30 here in the US, I had to look it up. Neat rigs.

@@CheapskateGarage 👍🏼

I only replaced the drum and the piston with the damaged seal. Everything else was ok. We just sold the van after putting more than 30k more trouble-free miles on the transmission.

Thanks great video

How long did it take u just to remove compounder and valve body

@@charrito020Hard to say since it's been a few years, but probably about 90 minutes. Having a lift saves some time for sure.

Yes indeed. What better place for a long, long test drive than traversing central OR?

I'm not sure. Did it look similar when it used to work? Pretty much any VFD display draws decent current, makes a little heat, and eventually cracks solder joints. I've had to fix them in VCRs, instrument panels, ovens, etc. It's worth investigating.

I bought it like that, i will try to fix it, ty a lot@@CheapskateGarage

@@cristianburlacu1483 no problem, and good luck!

I believe I got a piece of exhaust tubing of just the right diameter, cut square on both ends, and cut it slightly longer than the shaft. I probably cut a large window opening in the side of the tube, so I could access the snap ring with my snap-ring pliers. I think I then set everything on my press and pushed down on the spring with the exhaust tubing and press, and removed/installed the snap ring as necessary. I can say for certain that I did exactly that on this particular transmission, but I've done it in many similar situations. In hindsight, I really should've covered that in this video. Sorry for leaving it out!

I think Chris Hendricks took it, but I don't know his youtube

Sorry I didn't see this sooner. With metal in the filter, you're not likely to have a simple fix like this leaky seal. There are probably some hard parts worn out inside. It depends on whether or not the shavings were ferrous.

You're welcome, I'm glad it helped!

Same here

does dealer sell those plastic buttons

Yep, 25k miles later it's still going strong.

It sounds like the same problem here, though perhaps only one of the resistors is disconnected. Have you checked the resistors shown in the video for solder cracking?

@@CheapskateGarage No , but i will do that . thank you

The nut was no problem, but I think my gun peaks at 1200 ft-lbs in reverse. I'm not sure how difficult removing it by hand would be. My first instinct would be to try cutting a hardwood wedge just the right size to jam between the gears. If that wasn't working well, maybe a wedge on top between the gears, and a wedge on the bottom, with a bar clamp jamming them towards each other and into the gears. If hardwood doesn't grab well enough, a softwood would grab better (but might chip out easier).

I didn't. I've had to do rather extensive adaptation procedures after repairing volvos, but this Chrysler trans just went straight back to normal operation.

It's not necessary, but it will improve shift quality faster. The PCM will eventually learn the changes and adapt with out it, but you're talking about a week instead of a few hours.

Is it always the same gear it gets stuck in? Or does it vary? Driving around with a bidirectional scan tool could give some insight, unfortunately they're quite expensive. Before taking the compounder apart, I would track down all the speed sensors and verify their operation. You can ohm them out, and then ohm them out again through the PCM connector to verify harness integrity. Also check for corrosion in all the connectors.

Buy a dipstick and check fluid. It uses ATF plus 4. You are not stuck in gear you are in limp mode. Dirty fluid or wrong or low. I will help you

@@CHEAPROLLIN Good point, always a good idea to have a dipstick for the trans. I marked the backside of my engine oil dipstick according to some dimensions I found online. I can now use that dipstick for either the engine or the trans, and I always have it with me. Line pressures should be reported on a good scanner too, and can help indicate whether oil delivery is an issue. Low pressures can definitely cause slippage resulting in these speed mismatch codes.

If it whines a lot, you may want to research pump issues--I've heard that's common. The fix shown here definitely worked for me. We've put about 25k flawless miles on it since then. The car lift I bought used and it was ancient. Nearly touched the 12 foot peak. I've since moved and have a higher ceiling, poured my own slab and bought a new Ideal certified 10k bi-symmetric lift.

@FixItCheap I have a 2011 chrysler town and country I having a really weird issue nobody can figure it out I be driving it then all of a sudden it gets stuck in one gear nothing I do helps it get out of that gear then I have to pull over shut it off let it sit for a few seconds then turn it back on and it drives beautifully no hard shifting shifts into every gear then after driving a couple miles it does it again gets stuck into a gear then have to shut it off again and works fine when I go from park to drive I do hear a real bad clunk from the side pan sometimes it doesn't happen all the time this van is very Bazaar just got it 3 weeks after it was driving fire for couple weeks then this last week it started doing it it has the same codes p0734 p0735 p0733 thank you

@@mustanggta5444 so I just replaced the transmission in my son's 2012 Town and Country, been a learning experience in more way's than one. His van was showing P0733, P0846 and P083B, I researched those codes extensively and just looked up the codes you listed, also talked to a friend who was a transmission specialist but has retired and sold all his tools and he gave me some suggestions, I was thinking/hoping it was solenoid pack but he said it sounded more internal. Based on your codes and symptoms this is what i would recommend you do first, drop the trans oil pan and check for any large metal pieces, don't worry about metallic flakes that's normal, if no large pieces of anything that's positive and don't worry about black sludge unless there is an awful lot of it (if a lot then your clutches are pretty worn), check fluid, is there any red color to it at all or is it brown, if it's red or even dark red it's probably okay. Clean the magnet and all sludge out of pan, buy one of those Dorman transmission drains and install it on side of pan close to bottom edge (deep side of pan), don't put it on bottom. The washers that come with it don't work so well so go to Ace and buy a bronze or brass washer that fits the bigger part and a nylon washer that fits the smaller drain plug. Put one of the big nylon washers on inside and the other big nylon washer and bronze washer on outside and crank those down pretty snug, throw away the rubber o-ring on drain plug and the put couple wraps of thread tape on and then smaller nylon washer and snug that up, it will leak if you don't do all that. Install a new filter and instead of RTV i recommend getting a gasket, better way to go especially if you have to take it back off. put it back together, will take about 5 to 5.5 qts of ATF+4, multiple videos about checking fluid, I have done the oil dipstick method but also bought one of the special dipsticks, it was cheap. Take it for a ride, if it runs okay you are in luck and that's the easiest route. If it still acts up you can check the solenoids, plenty of diagrams and data sheets online for those and it's reasonably to get to, i just went to a junk yard and cut off the connecter with wires as long as I could get, labeled the wires and plugged that in and checked the solenoids with that. Based on you codes and symptoms I'm guessing it's not any solenoids but most likely the low clutch drum which is fairly common and in fact Chrysler has updated that part, that's the most likely. It could also be a problem with the pump or torque converter but doesn't seem likely based on your symptoms. If you have to pull the transmission, I would go with a completely rebuilt one or have somebody rebuild it, my experience with Ebay is that peoples ideas of "used good" or "refurbished" are different than my definition, also a lot of the tranny's listed even though the say they run and may even guarantee them, they have high mileage. That's kind of lengthy but hope it helps.

Я пока ещё не собрал все обратно, но надеюсь это решит мою проблему p0792 p0733 p0734 p1790

That appears to translate as, "Hello, I got all the same errors, today I dismantled the low drum and saw everything is the same as yours, thank you video because of him I climbed there" You're very welcome, I'm glad you were able to find the problem.

​@@TheEscolizardкак решил проблему?

I have pieces of metal in the filter. It drives only in first gear and in reverse gear it rides and slips a little. Code p075a,p0734,p0736,p0792.

The repair shown in parts 1 & 2 is the only repair I performed. I did not do anything with sensors, solenoids, or the valve body.

@@CheapskateGarage ok I see very cool

Yes, they do. The fiberglass is a bit more aggressive, but erasers are easier to find for sure. They can make some nasty smears if things are grease contaminated though.

I believe I did a Google search for ATSG 62TE pdf. If you can't find it let me know, and I can do some more digging.

@@CheapskateGarage Thank you

Hard to remember, but I think I may have bought the $30 Alldata subscription for this car.

Awesome! I'm glad you dug in and found the problem.

I don't recall any difficulty accessing those bolts, but I imagine it could be quite different in an Avenger. Sometimes on other cars, I've had to pop off a couple engine/trans mounts to lower the assembly an inch or two to gain access to transmission components. Good luck!