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So many things I would like to comment on…

👋👋👋

agreed 💯

Well stated Roachrc. I love the competition of racing and find that many get hung up on hot laps and average times and making the A, this can cause stress at times. Though we have some awesome tracks nearby I have seen 1/10 racing struggle the past several years, I don’t know all the reasons for this but my hope is that people will rejoin because it’s ok to take breaks, try new things and resume with this great hobby!

For most of my 1/10th scale stuff I shoot for the middle. In my B6.4D I am using a HW Juststock XR10. I have a nicer ECS in my B74.2, but it came from my touring car. I have no plans to run mod anytime soon so ESCs that only do 0 timing are fine for now. I am shooting for the middle with servos as well, both are under $100. I'll care more about lightweight stuff or better quality when I am consistently making the A main. For now that gear won't help me, it is more about keeping the cars on the wheels.

The thing 99% of drivers need more track time not more hop up parts.

The fact is that people who run those hop ups and do good usually don't need to pay for them lmao. In my opinion the best solution for this is to let roar to raise the lowest weight limit a handful of grams, that way drivers neither have to concern about weight nor the chassis company has to go to extreme and sacrifice durability.

Uk racer here. It’s amusing how in mod you run any motor any batteries and go well. Yet in stock you need hand picked motors and the best lipos discharged and charged at 35A to get the lowest IR etc to do well. I missed the boat on getting my order in for the B7 and I think I might of dodged a bullet. I got mine from the 2nd batch, affectionately known as the revised kits. No issues at all having run it in my regional series. Astro and grass tracks. This was the first video I’ve seen of yours and it was a good one. Keep up the good work!

nailed it. i still race my old B6.1 and see no reason to buy another kit

See if you saved 20 grams of non rotating weight on a 1400gram vehicle you might aave one 10th of a second over 5 minutes. You could do the math to work it out roughly. For all that money, you are better to do an extra race each week or month and avoid tagging one pipe. If you get marshalled, that is probably 100 times your gain in time from spending all the money. If you run wide on one corner, thats it, might as well be running a stock standard buggy😂

I think raising minimum weight requirements to near box stock would aid a lot of these issues, but selling these hop ups are a vital part of the rc economy even if some of them are snake oil. Super high grip tracks like you see in 1/10 are also going to make racing more setup dependent and less skill based.

I would say the big hit and shocker as a novice for racing is how much tires cost and how important they are. No amount of motor or battery compensates for the wrong tires. Unless you are racing on only one surface tires get shockingly expensive fast. If I visit a new track I'm likely dropping $60 on tires for that track. Did I last visit the track on a 90° day and it's now 65° maybe I can get by with just softer rears and $30? And as a novice it makes the difference between mostly driving or mostly crashing.

Great video with some solid points for sure.

All rc cars have flaws not only the B7..The schumacher LD3 is more fragile especially front clip constantly breaking and everything else around it....AE is has the best customer service is the reason I am still sticking around and price cost and availability....

Footage is so clean. You're doing great man!

Can we also talk about drivers screaming at Marshalls from the stand........I literally wear ear plugs to try and minimize how ridiculous these dummies sound mad cuz they driving over their skillset. Expecting turn Marshall to help them win the race

the battle of the wallet...it can kill good driver's spirit. i have seen this so many times. work on the nut behind the wheel.

#1 upgrade is tires, you can never have enough tires! That's where about 75% of your cars ability comes from, if you're on a good set of tires for the right track surface and conditions you're 75% of the way there

I'm gonna start out with a RB10 as I'm new to the hobby and it's affordable. Just want to have fun.

Agree with your points

Totally agree.

9:29 Every RC company out there selling these products. "Whoa, whoa whoa there buddy. What are you doing? Have you seen our profit margin on charging 200 bucks for screws we buy in bulk from China? Just stop what you're doing. Quick. Marketing get out there and push the message".

I'm still on my 6.4. Most of the unsponsored people I know jumped on the B7 on release. I'm more in the mindset of waiting on new product releases for the bugs to be worked out. I likely won't swap to a new platform until 7.1. As long as there is parts support, there's no rush. As for the stock thing; yes I agree it would be nice if everyone was on a more even playing field and upgrades were more limited to force people to win based on setup and driving skill instead of willingness to open up a big wallet.

Great video, the things you brought up is what keep new racers away. They think they need to run all the hop ups instead of just running laps.

Stock racing is the most ironic name for a class, as nothing is stock on the top guys cars

Great info, I used to race when I was 16 years old when you had to build your own kit and the associated RC10 was killing everything. I’m 52 years old now and I’ve gotten back into RC. I actually have my own track on my property near San Antonio. Everything is so expensive, but I love the hobby, I have a couple of Team Corally Syncro 4s buggies that are amazing as rental units. At $369 I have no idea why everyone isn’t racing this buggy, especially beginners. Thanks again for the video👍🏽

Being not that much of a driver, I'm still able to do the A-Main with a 2018 Yokomo YZ2 Cal3 against B7's... The setup is key, 99% of people won't use the 3% more rpm the 180$ motor gives and the 4% lighter 200$ parts. To me 80% is driving 10% is setup 10% is maintenance.

I like that you use my car footage as B roll, especially when you're talking about unnecessary upgrades! The front of my car has Rudebits m3.5 titanium turnbuckles and the Exotek hub carriers for durability reasons. To finish first you need to finish!

Great video. I don’t currently race. I mainly just build and have vintage cars. I’d like to get some vintage racing started

Do you still were a mask at any tracks? I wanna go to a track soon but I’m still scared of Covid😿😬😖😖

I always thought 21.5 would make a good entry level / laid back racing class. Then 17.5 can be the class for the ultra competitive.

You want budget, go slash racing. No class at your local place? Start one. The old heads Will pick it up eventually. I went to my local place and they had slash thrown in with sct. Finally started a dedicated class and it has been an absolute blast.

Well said!

Just curious when you mention alternatives to AE B7 why you did not mention Schumacher LD3? Since you have some experience with it I was curious why you did not list that as a good option?

The b7 is horrible on dirt. Need rear motor

Plus things like Titanium turnbuckles are less durable than kit steel ones, so you buy expensive Ti ones, someone hits your car in practice, they bend your spangly new turnbuckle and you have to splash more cash to actually see the benefit you thought you were getting! That was on my Mod carpet Yokomo, my mate son hit me when my car was upside down and bent my shiny new turnbuckle, by some miracle I was able to straighten it enough to still work until I had chance to replace it with B7 TI ones, 😅 It was just one of those things, 1st time trying Ti parts on my car.

After learning about stock racing, I showed up to my first ever race with a blinky esc and a fixed timing 17.5 in my buggy. Problem is there are so few racers that show up that that the organizers just want cars on the track and don’t care what’s in them. I found out the hard way that everyone had a 10.5 or 13.5 motor…

Couldn’t agree more,

I do agree with roach, its better to learn to drive the car and get a good setup then drop the cost of another car on titanium and other cosmetic option parts that mostly do nothing for the new drivers. I can understand the companys saying you need this and that expensive option part its their profit and bread on the table that keep them alive. As an Xray xb2 driver i can say that the only two option parts for reliability on an xb2-24 that is needed is front bulkhead and rear rollcenter holder not more not less, the cars is good with the right setup.

Gutsy to make this video but 100% accurate about why RC racing has issues and hindering its growth. More videos like this should be made. My rant. Cost of RC tyres. For two pairs of Prolines I can get a mountain bike tyre which last at 20,000 times longer.

Sorry, but you danced around the subject without really saying anything. Probably not to make any industry folks mad. Your lone example is a racer who still has names on his shirt, is racing 13.5, not 17.5, 4wd not 2wd. You give kudos to the old car and other cars for sale by your sponsor and a couple others that people buying aren’t buying in the US. It almost sounds like a ad read. You avoided the whole issue with batteries as well battery rules not being enforced therefore people charging the snot out of their batteries, reducing their life and also increasing a huge safety risk for the entire track to get that extra pop at the beginning of a race. Let’s call a spade a spade the principal problem with stock racing is that the cars are not stock and many of the drivers don’t belong in stock with names plastered all over their shirt. Stock class cars are too fast couple that with no matter how much you need or don’t need all those extra bits when new racers or perspective racers hear the bill on what others are spending on their car. They check out. But that is not what the industry is going to push. The last thing they want is a return to chassis platforms lasting 10 years (b4) and people running two or three-year-old motors because they’re mod and they have too much hp anyway. Something is fundamentally wrong when a mod car no matter how you explain it is cheaper than a stock one. -U10

i raced my 6.4 for a whole season and the only things i have upgraded are ti turnbuckles (only cause i wanted something stronger not lighter), puck system because i was tired of replacing drive cups and aluminum bell cranks to tighten up the steering. NONE of those helped me go faster. the single biggest thing to help me place better in races was consistency and the main thing to help me get there was tires. not even finding the right tire but just replacing worn out tires. i run a $120 motor, stock/oem bearings, stock shocks and my batteries are literally a year old after lots of use and work just fine. i hate to break the news but replacing every screw with titanium isnt going to make you faster.

Old saying goes "you can have all the gear but have no idea." If you can get good with a true stock chassis, then you'll find benefit in upgrades. For newcomers I would recommend ignoring anyone that says "get this get that", use what you have and become proficient with it through practice and slight setup changes.

Unfortunately probably 80% of profit for rc tracks/suppliers is in parts for stock racing, take that away and I wonder how many tracks/suppliers become unviable. It sucks and I hate it but I don’t see how it’s going to go away with so much vested interest.

Lol I can't agree more

Running my stock

Good points. On a side note your audio really needs a de esser filter.

I'm still racing my B6.4, and I have no plans to switch to a B7 right now. For someone of my skill level (above average amateur) the B6.4 is more than enough car. I did the titanium screws and turnbuckles, the carbon bits and so on. My car wasn't a cheap build, but I know the car is not what is holding me back. In the club races I attend, I am confident that the car is capable of podium regularly, even against max spec B7's and anything else. The only thing I need to worry about now is driver skill, the more I practice the better I will get. The car is not my weak point anymore. By the time this car is my weak point, the B8 will likely be out. So as long as I can find parts for the B6.4, I will not change it.

Hey now! Im not that old 😅 The answer to this is run more Nitro. And ride dirt bikes 🤘

Roach great video I totally agree. I don’t race 1/10 scale or 1/8 scale anymore because it got so out of control expensive. The last couple years I have been competitively racing mini z’s, as all the bigger tracks have shut down in my area. Now I see the mini z racing going down that same path. So many guys will tell you that you have to have the most expensive stuff to be competitive and that just isn’t true, my opinion is it is pushing the new people away from the hobby. I had the most fun I have had in a long time last weekend. A new indoor track opened here for 1/18 scale and mini z and we raced mini b’s and mini t’s box stock and it was so much fun