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I wouldn’t go too much shorter but basswood would work well.

Appreciate that!

You’re welcome! I was surprised no one posted about this previously…

@@courtneycox8265 that would absolutely work and is a great idea! I just hate to waste such great wood.,,, I should just get over it

Thank you very much!

There are two bits; a spiral up-cut for the perimeter and the dish bit. www.freudtools.com/products/75-108 www.freudtools.com/products/19-578

@ thank you

Really appreciate the feedback! Glad it helped.

Apologies, I never noticed the mistake! Yes, 12x24!

Thank you for watching and glad it helped!

Just plain old mineral oil

You bet! Glad you found it helpful and hopefully Apollo will love it.

Hi there, I made another video showing you how to do just that: th-cam.com/video/s11rGObOmWY/w-d-xo.html. You can also use tape to mark the hole and transfer or take a photocopy of the slider and use the copy to mark the holes.

@ Worked like a charm! You weren’t kidding, though, making the side rail pieces and the baseplate is a bear with all that marking and drilling. I almost blew out the second to last hole I had to drill in the corner of the baseplate. I thought I was gonna have a heart attack. But I made it through lol. Also, I know I’m not the first to say it, but I’ve watched more instructional router sled videos than I’d like to admit and how informative you are while remaining concise is quite impressive. Thank you for the help and keep up that good work!

@ thank you very much for the kind words and I’m happy to hear it worked. I have found it’s such a great jig to have in my shop. Oh yeah, man, you really need to be patient and take your time with the drilling!

Let me know how you make out with the change!

All comments welcome!!

No doubt, Dave! I turned an off-center rectangular bowl, which I’ll be posting next week, and was shocked that I still got vibration at 750 lbs! Sadly I have t had time to flex it out much. I needed to get a new bandsaw to cut bowl blanks to really put it to use.

@@industrialcomfort Vibration of the lathe or on your tool? How fast were you turning? It really doesn't take much off-balance to get the lathe dancing depending on the size of the blank. Also, there is usually a range of RPM where there is some natural vibration--often if you go just a bit higher the vibration will go away. Be careful of course--nobody wants a piece flying through the shop (or into their face!). I usually turn between 600-800 RPM for bowls (on the lower end when roughing), but will speed up once in balance and I'm coring. But by rule of thumb, I try to never turn a bowl above 1,000 RPM, though speed is fun!

I didn’t put as much thought into it as I probably should have. For me it was more about the orientation of my shop, where I had room, where the vacuum is located etc. if you are going to consistently and diligently mill the wood in one direction then you are correct in your thinking. BTW, great point!

edit, i put 4 1x1x 12 together and epoxied with a gold shimmer

Thank you, Kujo. Hopefully you found it helpful.

I pick them up on Amazon and harvest the bases....

You know it!!

That entirely depends on the size of your monitor and how much space you want around the stand. I used 12" x 32" slab

@@industrialcomfort many thanks!

Best practice would be to run against the direction of the spinning bit when you're working an edge you're finishing. There will be an arrow on the plunge router base that indicates the direction of the router's spindle. So if the bit is spinning clockwise, you'll want to move the router clockwise (or the workpiece counterclockwise against the router). If you're just removing wood and don't have an edge to worry about then I don't really care which direction I'm moving the router.

@@industrialcomfort Thank you for the answer (and the video). Ok, so I wont get kickback if I just start working in an uneven shape into a piece of wood, moving in all directions? If so, that would be great news.

@SuperGamli It depends on the workpiece, the router speed, the hardness of wood, bit type, direction of grain, etc. If you're just hogging out wood, no, you shouldn't have any issue. Bucking and kickback tends to happen on outside corners. Not to say you won't get kickback when removing material but you've got a bearing and router jig to help stabilize things significantly. As with any tool, practice and getting a feel for the tool helps a lot.

@@industrialcomfort Awesome! Its just a few pieces of Sitka spruce, so I reckon pretty soft. Thanks for taking the time to answer!

@SuperGamliof course! Good luck

Thank you. No reason at all for not going shorter. I thought I would need a higher skirt as the boards I tend to flatten are thick. A shorter skirt would be fine though.

You bet, glad it helped!

Glad to hear the video was helpful!

you are welcome and thanks for watching, Joseph.

Brush part number is 2610007957

That is an insane cost for acrylic! You could use wood.

@@industrialcomfort Everything that comes from the States is expensive with all the taxes. I'm thinking of using Baltic ply. Get a whole sheet for the same price.

⁠understood. Plywood will work fine. Just go 3/4”. Good luck!

Great to hear!

It all comes down to the radius on the round-over bit you use. That gives you the flexibility to create either large or small round contours.

Let me know how you make out, Steve!

I thought about developing something that would allow for adjustability. In the end I opted to go with plywood blocks or 2x4s under the rails to adjust for height. Thanks for watching!

Glad it helped and thanks for watching

great idea!

LOL, sorry about that and good catch! That is a spacer because I mis-cut the slide (see minute 6:31). Had I not put the spacer in the slide would go back too far

Thank you, really appreciate the feedback. I lot Tru Oil because it's so easy to apply and dries perfectly. Sadly it isn't food safe and also adds an amber hue. If you're looking for a food safe finish you could try bees wax, wood turner's finish, walnut oil or just straight mineral oil.

Just eyeballed it…

@@industrialcomfort Ahhh. Magic.

@@robertcornelius3514 I should have mentioned that I used the grain to center as much as possible. That made things much, much easier :)

Appreciate that, thank you. I don't find that any deflection is affecting my work pieces. Keep in mind that you can adjust the slide rails and re-mount closer to your work piece to minimize any deflection. A little deflection side to side but that doesn't affect anything from what I've seen.

Honest answer, you absolutely could. I assumed I'd need more support from the black but you really don't.

@@industrialcomfort Thanks for the response. I've a novice woodworker at best, just trying to find my way around!

@@carrera0002 You bet! Just make sure that if you do not use the block method that you're feeding the wood from the right side or that piece of wood is going to fly right off the table. The router is a seriously dangerous tool and the block will offer you some added support.

Exactly why we're all here!​@@carrera0002

Hi there, I used an upspiral bit along with a bushing on my router base. The bushing allows me to ride the side of the template I created and the upspiral bit allows me to make the plunge cut. A flushcut bit can't be used for plunge cuts, which is needed here. Just do a google search for "upspiral bits" and "router bushings". You'll just want to make sure the bit fits the bushing you decide to go with.

Safe to assume there is a small offset between your pattern and the routed opening since you’re using a bushing?

@@philigyarto7812 yes, absolutely correct...about 1/16"

Glad it helped, Jeff! Thank you for watching.

I believe I mention in one of the videos the same issue. This design requires less material and time as well as minimizing tear-out when cutting.