Very well done. I like the no nonsense step by step. i.e. I didn't feel like my time was wasted. And I really liked the Shopsmith cameo. It's my primary woodworking tool.
In design did you find the dust collection port needs to be oriented on a particular side with respect to chip discharge so as to pick up debris better? I would assume it would be oriented on side of the milled wood rather than the un-milled wood unless you are cutting on BOTH push and pull strokes. Maybe it doesnt matter?
I didn’t put as much thought into it as I probably should have. For me it was more about the orientation of my shop, where I had room, where the vacuum is located etc. if you are going to consistently and diligently mill the wood in one direction then you are correct in your thinking. BTW, great point!
Appreciate that, thank you. I don't find that any deflection is affecting my work pieces. Keep in mind that you can adjust the slide rails and re-mount closer to your work piece to minimize any deflection. A little deflection side to side but that doesn't affect anything from what I've seen.
What amount of deflection have you experienced with these Amazon rails in the center where the least amount of support is? Have you noticed any sag in them?
I forgot to mention that you can also realign the side rails and pull closer to your work piece. This would minimize any deflection. Again, I have not noticed any deflection that would cause an issue so far.
Great video, really helpful. Quick question. The dust skirt also comes in a 1.5" high configuration. Is there a reason not to use the shorter skirt? It would allow the sled to track closer to the workpiece.
Thank you. No reason at all for not going shorter. I thought I would need a higher skirt as the boards I tend to flatten are thick. A shorter skirt would be fine though.
I thought about developing something that would allow for adjustability. In the end I opted to go with plywood blocks or 2x4s under the rails to adjust for height. Thanks for watching!
How did you mark the holes on the acrylic strips for the sliders on the side rails? You just said you drilled them to match the holes in the sliders. You can’t use the same technique you used with the punch on the router plate as the holes do not go all the way through. Does that make sense? I can’t think of a way to make sure that I drill them so everything sits square and lined up.
Hi there, I made another video showing you how to do just that: th-cam.com/video/s11rGObOmWY/w-d-xo.html. You can also use tape to mark the hole and transfer or take a photocopy of the slider and use the copy to mark the holes.
@ Worked like a charm! You weren’t kidding, though, making the side rail pieces and the baseplate is a bear with all that marking and drilling. I almost blew out the second to last hole I had to drill in the corner of the baseplate. I thought I was gonna have a heart attack. But I made it through lol. Also, I know I’m not the first to say it, but I’ve watched more instructional router sled videos than I’d like to admit and how informative you are while remaining concise is quite impressive. Thank you for the help and keep up that good work!
@ thank you very much for the kind words and I’m happy to hear it worked. I have found it’s such a great jig to have in my shop. Oh yeah, man, you really need to be patient and take your time with the drilling!
Too bad you can't get these parts in europe, i would love to make one of these :( Amazon won't ship these parts where i am. I may try to source them elsewhere and will post maybe links here for people in my situation if it's ok with you. I would also try to put these on the side of the table so you can use your workbench in all other situations.
Where in Europe are you? I just ordered vevor linear rails and bearings. Part of the order I did via Kaufland online store, part on Polish eBay aka allegro and all that crap came feom a warehouse in Czechia to Poland 3 days later. Should be no problem.
@@industrialcomforthiya Todd, I figured you’re from the US. Excellent presentation. I think I’ve watched like 15 videos on these sleds and your video has the most concise information along with some of the clearest speech that I’ve ever heard with no ums. I was trying to reply to the gent that complained about not being able to get parts for the sled here in Europe ;) - apparently that didn’t work or something.
You could have made a cheaper MDF template for the router base to check all measurements were inline before doing anything on the more expensive piece of acrylic.
I subscribed and gave you thumbs up only because you gave me all the content before you asked me. Most ask me to subscribe at the beginning before they give me anything.
I'd add some collar stops as an extra...not expensive. BTW- the acrylic in Canada is $98 + tax OOOps! I see you have them installed at the last frame of the vid...never mind...😃
@@industrialcomfort Everything that comes from the States is expensive with all the taxes. I'm thinking of using Baltic ply. Get a whole sheet for the same price.
Great, but then we have a big jig a little difficult to store and not useful for every day usage. Great for people with plenty of space or that they never store it because they use it everyday.
This is awesome! Best tutorial on making a router sled I've seen so far. Thank you for sharing.
Really appreciate the feedback! Glad it helped.
Awesome - Great instructional video - Thanks for taking the time to share this with everyone.
Absolutely. Glad it helped and thanks for watching.
Great video, thanks for sharing
Glad it was helpful, thank you for watching!
Very well done. I like the no nonsense step by step. i.e. I didn't feel like my time was wasted. And I really liked the Shopsmith cameo. It's my primary woodworking tool.
Thank you very much, Dana.
Impressive precision and patience. Beautiful result!
Thank you and appreciate you watching!
In design did you find the dust collection port needs to be oriented on a particular side with respect to chip discharge so as to pick up debris better? I would assume it would be oriented on side of the milled wood rather than the un-milled wood unless you are cutting on BOTH push and pull strokes. Maybe it doesnt matter?
I didn’t put as much thought into it as I probably should have. For me it was more about the orientation of my shop, where I had room, where the vacuum is located etc. if you are going to consistently and diligently mill the wood in one direction then you are correct in your thinking. BTW, great point!
Wery nice, like big mankei
Great jig and great video. My only concern is how much deflection on those rods ?
Appreciate that, thank you. I don't find that any deflection is affecting my work pieces. Keep in mind that you can adjust the slide rails and re-mount closer to your work piece to minimize any deflection. A little deflection side to side but that doesn't affect anything from what I've seen.
2x24 do you mean 12x24? great video btw very clear and concise. Thankyou
Apologies, I never noticed the mistake! Yes, 12x24!
What amount of deflection have you experienced with these Amazon rails in the center where the least amount of support is? Have you noticed any sag in them?
I have not really noticed much at all.
I forgot to mention that you can also realign the side rails and pull closer to your work piece. This would minimize any deflection. Again, I have not noticed any deflection that would cause an issue so far.
Great video, really helpful. Quick question. The dust skirt also comes in a 1.5" high configuration. Is there a reason not to use the shorter skirt? It would allow the sled to track closer to the workpiece.
Thank you. No reason at all for not going shorter. I thought I would need a higher skirt as the boards I tend to flatten are thick. A shorter skirt would be fine though.
Good ideas! Wouldn't it have worked OK to use the unused plastic router base for lining up your holes to mount the router in the moving base?
I thought of that too but the plastic base does not have the same hole configuration I wanted to use. I wanted to use 4 bolts instead of 3
@@industrialcomfort ah! The metal router base has threaded holes for several configurations; I would probably drill one of them wrong!
@@mriguy3202 LOL
Have you found anything that would mate up with this to make it height adjustable? Great job, by the way!
I thought about developing something that would allow for adjustability. In the end I opted to go with plywood blocks or 2x4s under the rails to adjust for height. Thanks for watching!
How did you mark the holes on the acrylic strips for the sliders on the side rails? You just said you drilled them to match the holes in the sliders. You can’t use the same technique you used with the punch on the router plate as the holes do not go all the way through. Does that make sense? I can’t think of a way to make sure that I drill them so everything sits square and lined up.
Hi there, I made another video showing you how to do just that: th-cam.com/video/s11rGObOmWY/w-d-xo.html. You can also use tape to mark the hole and transfer or take a photocopy of the slider and use the copy to mark the holes.
@ Worked like a charm! You weren’t kidding, though, making the side rail pieces and the baseplate is a bear with all that marking and drilling. I almost blew out the second to last hole I had to drill in the corner of the baseplate. I thought I was gonna have a heart attack. But I made it through lol. Also, I know I’m not the first to say it, but I’ve watched more instructional router sled videos than I’d like to admit and how informative you are while remaining concise is quite impressive. Thank you for the help and keep up that good work!
@ thank you very much for the kind words and I’m happy to hear it worked. I have found it’s such a great jig to have in my shop. Oh yeah, man, you really need to be patient and take your time with the drilling!
Do you by chance have a link to the rollers?
They should be in the video’s description
Too bad you can't get these parts in europe, i would love to make one of these :( Amazon won't ship these parts where i am. I may try to source them elsewhere and will post maybe links here for people in my situation if it's ok with you. I would also try to put these on the side of the table so you can use your workbench in all other situations.
That would the very helpful, thank you!
Where in Europe are you? I just ordered vevor linear rails and bearings. Part of the order I did via Kaufland online store, part on Polish eBay aka allegro and all that crap came feom a warehouse in Czechia to Poland 3 days later. Should be no problem.
@@macsubs2499 I am in the US
@@industrialcomforthiya Todd, I figured you’re from the US. Excellent presentation. I think I’ve watched like 15 videos on these sleds and your video has the most concise information along with some of the clearest speech that I’ve ever heard with no ums.
I was trying to reply to the gent that complained about not being able to get parts for the sled here in Europe ;) - apparently that didn’t work or something.
@@maciejstalmach2252 ah apologies, I wasn't paying attention. I really appreciate the kind words.
You could have made a cheaper MDF template for the router base to check all measurements were inline before doing anything on the more expensive piece of acrylic.
yes, that could definitely. i just don't like cutting mdf... dangerous
I subscribed and gave you thumbs up only because you gave me all the content before you asked me. Most ask me to subscribe at the beginning before they give me anything.
Thank you, Kujo. Hopefully you found it helpful.
I'd add some collar stops as an extra...not expensive.
BTW- the acrylic in Canada is $98 + tax
OOOps! I see you have them installed at the last frame of the vid...never mind...😃
That is an insane cost for acrylic! You could use wood.
@@industrialcomfort
Everything that comes from the States is expensive with all the taxes.
I'm thinking of using Baltic ply.
Get a whole sheet for the same price.
understood. Plywood will work fine. Just go 3/4”. Good luck!
Great, but then we have a big jig a little difficult to store and not useful for every day usage. Great for people with plenty of space or that they never store it because they use it everyday.
You could also consider making a smaller version of this jig if you don't have a lot of storage space.
I wonder if you could make it so that it was easy to break down and store.
@@danasmith8950removing the rail slides allows you to remove the entire assembly from the base and it takes about a minute to unscrew everything
It’s a few pipes on end to store. Not a big deal for limited space.
You don't have a corner to stand it up in after you take it apart in 30 seconds?