love the square on the servo spline and horn. lol no more pulling on the boom to set tension, or tension wheel adjusting in the frame, a simple screw sets tension. that is really nice, very nice. my 360 is a BEEP in that regard a set bearing in the tail that applies downward force "not adjustable" pull or push on the boom is what you get. then look in the frame to see if you can push one side close to the other About 1/2 way.. here is the actual directions, I love Align for coming up with that tension set screw!!!!!!! Thank you Ian. Good video. 1. View the tail rotor drive belt through the opening at the back of the main frame. 2. Use a hex wrench or standard screwdriver to compress the belt through the opening. 3. Apply light pressure on the belt, compressing the belt toward the left side of the tail boom. 4. The belt tension is correct if the compressed side of the belt reaches approximately halfway to the opposite side of the belt. I
Yes that's how you used to check with Align, took some judging that way Jason!! Yes I always use the square but so.etimes it's still not perfect, thanks for watching and commenting 😀👍
@@IansRCExploits Ian, i found something about the 330s. A bitt off-topic for this upload from you're 500X😄. Check de manual from the 330S and do those pre-flight steps before flying. Please let me know if you see any changes with flying. I don't know what it is, but when i do those pre-flight steps, it's suddenly a different Heli
That's one thing Helie's are lots of parts!! They are very complex, that's why I love them!! They are a real challenge to build, set up and fly!! I'm hooked 😀👍
Some more great tips Ian. If I can give you one ... after you've put the mounting rubbers into the servo recessed instead of using pliers to pick up and place the brass spacers into the rubber simply slide the spacer onto a mounting screw and push the screw complete with space into the hole, withdraw the screw and the spacer remains in the rubber 🙂
Yes it's a lot of work building a Heli Mark, I've got to say I'm enjoying the build it's a very nice quality kit, this is the easy part!! The set up is the hardest Lol thanks for watching and commenting 😀👍
It all depends on how the servo is constructed inside but i dissembled some 9g servos and was able to rearrange things inside so that the horn was bang central at neutral.
@@IansRCExploits I imagine the mechanical construction of align servos are very good, it will be slight differences in the potentiometers resistance that causes it, if they were to reject anything that wasn't exactly to thier spec it would cure the problem but I suspect that they just buy them in and and accept the potentiometers rated tolerance. Some servos can be fixed by shifting gears inside and some can have the potentiometer re aligned but I have attempted it on other servos that were built in a way that nothing could be done to them.
To be honest I've never been able to get the servo horn perfectly at 90 degrees on most of my Trex Helies!! But if you don't get it out with sub trim it can cause a bit of drift, but the flybarles Gyros tend to make up for this issue as you set your swash plate up 😀👍
Hi again :) what about two top links which go from arms to the swash? I didn't find in the manual recommended length for them. Also other question, are threads on both sides of a 'swashplate to servo' metal link the same? Because when i started to build swashplate links, the upper plastic side always was easier to fit, and the bottom part of link was harder, i even damaged one plastic link, it just did cut plastic inside, i saw how black threads of plastic were going outside of the hole but the plastic link itself never went on a thread.. so i have to order a new set of links now because one plastic part is damaged.
@@IansRCExploits yes i noticed that the direction is different there! But it doesn't matter which plastic link to put on? I saw some numbers on the other side behind A letter.
@IansRCExploits oh yes i see now, thank you :) i rather was checking the page 13.. i just went in other order, i decided to start with some simple preparations and will leave the main rotor and tail rotor on the end. Feels more fun for me to gather the main frame first :) (yes i know no loctite yet, just pre-build with screws in), and yes i'm aware of A being outside, saw it in the manual and in your video
Again Ian...a ton of great tips. This is a great way to do a build video. Very, very well done. These are quite complicated.
Thank you very much Adam much appreciated 😀👍
Another great upload enjoyed the watch thanks Ian
Cheers Gareth 😀👍
Hi Ian … totally fascinating to watch .. brilliant to hear you sharing your knowledge …. Really enjoying .. Thanks ..Michael
That's great glad you are enjoying it 😀👍
love the square on the servo spline and horn. lol no more pulling on the boom to set tension, or tension wheel adjusting in the frame, a simple screw sets tension. that is really nice, very nice. my 360 is a BEEP in that regard a set bearing in the tail that applies downward force "not adjustable" pull or push on the boom is what you get. then look in the frame to see if you can push one side close to the other About 1/2 way.. here is the actual directions, I love Align for coming up with that tension set screw!!!!!!! Thank you Ian. Good video.
1. View the tail rotor drive belt through the opening at the
back of the main frame.
2. Use a hex wrench or standard screwdriver to compress
the belt through the opening.
3. Apply light pressure on the belt, compressing the belt
toward the left side of the tail boom.
4. The belt tension is correct if the compressed side of the
belt reaches approximately halfway to the opposite side
of the belt.
I
Yes that's how you used to check with Align, took some judging that way Jason!! Yes I always use the square but so.etimes it's still not perfect, thanks for watching and commenting 😀👍
@@IansRCExploits yeah , I'm loving the new tension screw design. 😁
Some in's and out's you are giving Ian👍. You are making progres with the build. I learned something today!😁👍
Thanks Adnan 😀👍
@@IansRCExploits Ian, i found something about the 330s. A bitt off-topic for this upload from you're 500X😄. Check de manual from the 330S and do those pre-flight steps before flying. Please let me know if you see any changes with flying. I don't know what it is, but when i do those pre-flight steps, it's suddenly a different Heli
I couldn't see the steps you mean Adnan!! Let me know which ones please 👍
@@IansRCExploits It's page 8 in the manual👍
That's strange Adnan!! I would not have though it would make any difference but i will try it thanks 😀👍
Great tips Ian. Keep them coming! They will be very useful in the build of my 470LM.
Well Doug the two Helie's are very similar to build, just the main gear and belt drive that differ, thanks for watching and commenting 😀👍
Great stuff Ian, so many parts, I love it. So much engineering, very cool. I cannot keep looking, I might have to get one. 🤣
That's one thing Helie's are lots of parts!! They are very complex, that's why I love them!! They are a real challenge to build, set up and fly!! I'm hooked 😀👍
@@IansRCExploits I can see why you would love it. Very satisfying 👍🏻
I love the build, it's the set up that I dread Lol very involved it is Chris 😀👍
Some more great tips Ian. If I can give you one ... after you've put the mounting rubbers into the servo recessed instead of using pliers to pick up and place the brass spacers into the rubber simply slide the spacer onto a mounting screw and push the screw complete with space into the hole, withdraw the screw and the spacer remains in the rubber 🙂
Brilliant thanks Cliff 😀👍
The letter A must always face out away from ball as the link is shaped on opposite side to the A so as it snaps on to the metal ball easier.
Wow, incredible amount of challenging build effort required, can I get an RTF version LOL? 🙃 Awesome Ian!You are the TH-cam Copter King 👊👊!
Yes it's a lot of work building a Heli Mark, I've got to say I'm enjoying the build it's a very nice quality kit, this is the easy part!! The set up is the hardest Lol thanks for watching and commenting 😀👍
Ian great tips for ball links, looking forward to hitting your landing pad, Jeff in LA USA
Thank you Jeff for watching and commenting 😀👍
Hi.
Long time no see....
Frying..
Good job 👏 👍 👌 🙌 😄 😀
Thank you 😀👍
I see progress! 🙂
Thanks Randy 😀👍
It all depends on how the servo is constructed inside but i dissembled some 9g servos and was able to rearrange things inside so that the horn was bang central at neutral.
You would think that Align would be aware of this when they get the servo's produced, thanks for watching Steve 😀👍
@@IansRCExploits I imagine the mechanical construction of align servos are very good, it will be slight differences in the potentiometers resistance that causes it, if they were to reject anything that wasn't exactly to thier spec it would cure the problem but I suspect that they just buy them in and and accept the potentiometers rated tolerance.
Some servos can be fixed by shifting gears inside and some can have the potentiometer re aligned but I have attempted it on other servos that were built in a way that nothing could be done to them.
To be honest I've never been able to get the servo horn perfectly at 90 degrees on most of my Trex Helies!! But if you don't get it out with sub trim it can cause a bit of drift, but the flybarles Gyros tend to make up for this issue as you set your swash plate up 😀👍
Hi again :) what about two top links which go from arms to the swash? I didn't find in the manual recommended length for them. Also other question, are threads on both sides of a 'swashplate to servo' metal link the same? Because when i started to build swashplate links, the upper plastic side always was easier to fit, and the bottom part of link was harder, i even damaged one plastic link, it just did cut plastic inside, i saw how black threads of plastic were going outside of the hole but the plastic link itself never went on a thread.. so i have to order a new set of links now because one plastic part is damaged.
@@IansRCExploits yes i noticed that the direction is different there! But it doesn't matter which plastic link to put on? I saw some numbers on the other side behind A letter.
The letter A must face away from the metal ball as the side with the number is shaped so as it snaps on easier.
@IansRCExploits oh yes i see now, thank you :) i rather was checking the page 13.. i just went in other order, i decided to start with some simple preparations and will leave the main rotor and tail rotor on the end. Feels more fun for me to gather the main frame first :) (yes i know no loctite yet, just pre-build with screws in), and yes i'm aware of A being outside, saw it in the manual and in your video