Wow, that's a lot of unnecessary work and material just to mount a 1 off casting. I would simply file or scrap the feet complainer, then bolt with feet down on the mill table with bolts thru the webs in conjunction with strap and toe clams.
Greg, I stopped the video and did a search on Amazon for the Spi vice stop you are using and can not find it. I have 2 similar vice stops but must use an Allen wrench from the back side to clamp them. the one you are using seems to have some kind of top clamp. Please provide a part number or link. Thanks in advance.
I don't know if these are made anymore. But the clamping force is done through some ball bearings on the back. When you tighten the thumb screws, they drive into the back if them and push the ball bearings into the rear of the vise jaw.
@@MyLilMule Sounds a lot like the concept used on Noga indicator holders and also the China clones. It should not be too hard to make one. I may try my luck at making one. I really wish I could master Fusion 360 so I could put some of my thoughts and ideas into prints and share them. I fooled around with the free version of Fusion 360 but for some reason could not get dimensions to stick. Thanks for the reply.
I sure have. Also guilty of turning a left hand tap clockwise when making an acme thread. Sometimes I find myself standing quietly wondering what I was doing. lol
The first non-ferrous cutting blade I put on my cutting saw I put backwards on the arbor, I couldn't understand why it was such a messy and long cut, a few seconds later I was utterly humbled.
I was waiting to see you mill 6 shallow slots to clear the webs and also 6 tapped holes for screws and washers in the Aluminum block. Then screw that casting to it, hold the assembly in the mill vise, and machine it all over.
I considered that, but I wanted to make it easier to shift it around or even shim individual blocks if it becomes necessary. The casting is a nice casting, but sometimes they aren't as straight as they appear. I figured this would idea would give me some wiggle room if I need it.
@@MyLilMule Maybe if you just clamped on the two outside areas there would be much less clamping distortion than trying to force it onto all 6 pads. Just cut off two 3/8" thick pads to fit the outside apertures, fix with two 1/2" cap heads using oversize washers to threads in the remaining aluminum block and it's not going anywhere. There seems to be at least 3/8" of the Aluminum block under the casting to clamp in the vise without the need for the large base. Bonus - no need to take the vise off.😃
Although I won't say "never" there are no current plans to machine these for sale. That could change, but I can't foresee the circumstance in which I would start that.
you could have put studs through the ali blocks straight to the t's in the t slots that would have avoided any potential error with the additional plate underneath
Those puppies aint moving! Always enjoy seeing power tap. Separates machine class for sure! This is a good project, Fresh.
Thanks 👍
Nice video, Greg! Looking forward to the finale!
Thanks!
Looking good Greg!
Thanks!
Nice work!
Thanks!
Very nice work sir
Thanks
Outstanding
Appreciate it.
Maybe I've missed it, but is there a reason why you don't use the feet on the casting to set it up? After all, they are made for it.
They still have to be machined. They are nowhere near flat. And I enjoyed coming up with the answer to my own challenge. Or at least I will try.
Wow, that's a lot of unnecessary work and material just to mount a 1 off casting.
I would simply file or scrap the feet complainer, then bolt with feet down on the mill table with bolts thru the webs in conjunction with strap and toe clams.
Looks like another fun build, I'd sure like to learn that scraping process.
It takes some patience, but it can be fun and rewarding to see it come together. I am far from an expert.
Well, that’s not going anywhere…
Nothing too strong ever broke. I think you’re gonna be fine. Lol
Good one, Greg
🤞🏻
Looking good!
Thanks!
Greg, I stopped the video and did a search on Amazon for the Spi vice stop you are using and can not find it. I have 2 similar vice stops but must use an Allen wrench from the back side to clamp them. the one you are using seems to have some kind of top clamp. Please provide a part number or link. Thanks in advance.
I don't know if these are made anymore. But the clamping force is done through some ball bearings on the back. When you tighten the thumb screws, they drive into the back if them and push the ball bearings into the rear of the vise jaw.
@@MyLilMule Sounds a lot like the concept used on Noga indicator holders and also the China clones. It should not be too hard to make one. I may try my luck at making one. I really wish I could master Fusion 360 so I could put some of my thoughts and ideas into prints and share them. I fooled around with the free version of Fusion 360 but for some reason could not get dimensions to stick. Thanks for the reply.
Who hasn't been guilty of running the spindle in reverse, at least once in their career.
I sure have. Also guilty of turning a left hand tap clockwise when making an acme thread. Sometimes I find myself standing quietly wondering what I was doing. lol
The first non-ferrous cutting blade I put on my cutting saw I put backwards on the arbor, I couldn't understand why it was such a messy and long cut, a few seconds later I was utterly humbled.
At least it wasn't on steel. ;)
I was waiting to see you mill 6 shallow slots to clear the webs and also 6 tapped holes for screws and washers in the Aluminum block. Then screw that casting to it, hold the assembly in the mill vise, and machine it all over.
I considered that, but I wanted to make it easier to shift it around or even shim individual blocks if it becomes necessary. The casting is a nice casting, but sometimes they aren't as straight as they appear. I figured this would idea would give me some wiggle room if I need it.
@@MyLilMule Maybe if you just clamped on the two outside areas there would be much less clamping distortion than trying to force it onto all 6 pads. Just cut off two 3/8" thick pads to fit the outside apertures, fix with two 1/2" cap heads using oversize washers to threads in the remaining aluminum block and it's not going anywhere. There seems to be at least 3/8" of the Aluminum block under the casting to clamp in the vise without the need for the large base. Bonus - no need to take the vise off.😃
😎👍👍👍👍👍
👍🏻
Presumably, you are going into production.
How much will you be selling them for ?
I guess it will be less than the cost of shipping to the UK.
Although I won't say "never" there are no current plans to machine these for sale. That could change, but I can't foresee the circumstance in which I would start that.
One for the algorithm
lol. Thanks!
All hail the algorithm !
Olá amigo gostei do trabalho,boa sorte sempre!!!
Thank you!
Eu que agradeço amigo@@MyLilMule ,pela atenção obrigado!!!
you could have put studs through the ali blocks straight to the t's in the t slots that would have avoided any potential error with the additional plate underneath
That would have meant trying to line up 6 additional t bolts blind. I don't think that would really work.
@@MyLilMule put the t in the slot put the stud in the t drop the alloy block over the stud space your block to suit
@@Bristolcentaurus Oh. I see. Well, that is another way of thinking about it.