Great video. Hope to see the scraping. Tom's channel is one of may favorites. I can't recommend it enough for anyone who is hooked on DIY gears and mechanical gadgets.
Being unable to do it all in one setup is not a fail. It's just being unable to do it in one setup. As long as it's straight, square and parallell, you're good to go :)
I know it's not technically a fail, but I did want to do it all in one setup. Now I know I CAN do it, but I should have planned it out better. That was the real lesson I learned.
Maybe if you just clamped on the two outside areas there would be much less clamping distortion than trying to force it onto all 6 pads. Just cut off two 3/8" thick pads to fit the outside apertures, fix with two 1/2" cap heads using oversize washers to threads in the remaining aluminum block and it's not going anywhere. There seems to be at least 3/8" of the Aluminum block under the casting to clamp in the vise without the need for the large base. Bonus - no need to take the vise off.😃
Tom's Rabbit Hole is astonishing really. I have no idea how he can work out what he does. And more scraping please, I'd love to see that brought to 1/10,000 all over.
Well done! That turned out really great. I didn't machine my straight edge in that manner - I used the top pads on the table to do the base - but it didn't come out as nice as yours! Thanks to your clickbait thumbnail I spent the whole machining time expecting the fixture to come loose or something catastrophic to happen! Big relief when it didn't! A scraping video might be ok, seeing your technique and a few snapshots of the blued up surfaces, but be careful not to overdo it! It's very satisfying when you've got it spot on but, as you know, it can be a tedious process!
I thought about machining the pads first, like you did, and I have seen others like @JeremyMakesThings do it that way. This was more of an exercise in can I do it than anything else. Plus, if I decide to machine another one, I have the fixture for it!
I think it's possible I could even use the fixture I made. But my surface grinder, even if it was in working condition, is only a 6x12, so I don't think it would fit. I have access to a 6x18, but it's in unknown condition. It powers on, but I don't know much else about it. In any case, I don't think the scraping will be too bad as it is. I will just have to get under the swirls first.
Great job Greg, Both on the straight edge and the universal head drive gear. I have a 1942 K&T 2HL I rebuilt 40 years ago with the same universal head and the factory made drive gear. Your drive gear is a nearly exact copy of the factory gear. Should work very nicely ! A file hardness check on the gear shows a heat treatment to about Rockwell 45C to 50C. I am interested in a bluing check of the angle face. My 82 year old table has some sag from gravity, aging of the iron or wear and doesn't mill flat surfaces any more. The 0,020" sag from center to ends imparts a curve in the cut from the now curved table dove tails. I would expect about 3 to 4 thousands out of flat from the sag milled into a 12" straight edge on my 2HL. I look forward to a scraping video......
Well, it's good to know that the gear is what we were all hoping. Although this one is not hardened, nor will it be as it is made from 1018. I don't know that I will use it enough in what years I have left on the planet to wear it out, I suppose. When I start to scrape in the prism face, I will blue it up first just to see how it looks. Should be interesting.
@@MyLilMule My 2HL had been robbed for parts to keep another mill running. I got it for scrap. Had to make 3 gears and a shifter for the spindle gear box. Used cold rolled steel and 1144. I didn't harden them and have 40 years use. Opened it up to fix a shifter taper pin a couple years ago and the gears look good. Face of teeth polished by use and work hardened the surface. Minimal wear.
Nice job. Dont forget to reheat it to relief machining tension. Tilting the cutting head a degree will allow a rear relief for the tool now seems like both edges are touching the surface.
Those machining marks will be gone after a couple passes of scraping. I have the exact one from Martin. It would be nice to see how you go about scraping it flat. It was my first project that I did. Nice work. Joe
There can never be too many scraping videos on TH-cam. I'm curious, did you stone the bottom surface of the straight edge before taking it to the surface plate? What you're seeing could just be burrs from the milling cutter.
Hi. If you want use this straight edge, after milling you need annealed or standing her for about 6-12 mounts, better if annealed and stay in one place. Much better, if straight edge been in outside of your workshop: rain, snow, cold, warm can help to minimize inside stress of cast iron. After all you can scraping this. Sorry my English.
I after milling my Rucker 9" camelback straight edge I surface ground it. Plenty precise for what I do. Probably would need a 6x18 SG to be able to do yours.
Being that it’s a casting, it’s far from flat. Your fixture is what’s causing the swirl marks. You should only have three points of contact instead of an entire row of bolts. Essentially what’s happening is….that whole area that you’re bolting down on is not flat or straight and there’s certainly allot of twist. When you clamp down, your twisting and bending the casting also, which in turn creates stress points throughout the part. As youre machining deeper and deeper, that stress is being released and that’s causing the swirl marks. You need to have just three contact points underneath that webbing. This way when you clamp down on the casting you’re not twisting it. You almost want it to stay naturally twisted when you clamp it. If that makes any sense….
Of course we want to this scraped in!! It's Coming along nicely!!
Thanks!
Great video. Hope to see the scraping. Tom's channel is one of may favorites. I can't recommend it enough for anyone who is hooked on DIY gears and mechanical gadgets.
He has some pretty awesome machines. And he is equally as nice in person as he is a master at making gears.
Being unable to do it all in one setup is not a fail. It's just being unable to do it in one setup. As long as it's straight, square and parallell, you're good to go :)
I know it's not technically a fail, but I did want to do it all in one setup. Now I know I CAN do it, but I should have planned it out better. That was the real lesson I learned.
Putting Fail in titles is click bait. I’m glad it’s not a fail though.
Maybe if you just clamped on the two outside areas there would be much less clamping distortion than trying to force it onto all 6 pads. Just cut off two 3/8" thick pads to fit the outside apertures, fix with two 1/2" cap heads using oversize washers to threads in the remaining aluminum block and it's not going anywhere. There seems to be at least 3/8" of the Aluminum block under the casting to clamp in the vise without the need for the large base. Bonus - no need to take the vise off.😃
Nice video, Greg! Your machine is awesome, and the straightedge looks great! Really makes me happy to see it all working!
Thanks for the mention, btw!
Me, too! Can't thank you enough!
Tom's Rabbit Hole is astonishing really. I have no idea how he can work out what he does.
And more scraping please, I'd love to see that brought to 1/10,000 all over.
I especially like that Tom shows the math. I learn so much by watching him.
Excellent work and interesting video 👌🏻
Thank you very much!
I love your milling machine!
I'm pretty fond of it myself! Thanks for watching!
Nice job. Your K&T is an awesome machine!
It's a great machine. Maybe someday it will get a full rebuild when I am more confident in my scraping abilities.
Yeah, definitely do the scraping video!
Thanks for the input.
Well done! That turned out really great. I didn't machine my straight edge in that manner - I used the top pads on the table to do the base - but it didn't come out as nice as yours!
Thanks to your clickbait thumbnail I spent the whole machining time expecting the fixture to come loose or something catastrophic to happen! Big relief when it didn't!
A scraping video might be ok, seeing your technique and a few snapshots of the blued up surfaces, but be careful not to overdo it! It's very satisfying when you've got it spot on but, as you know, it can be a tedious process!
I thought about machining the pads first, like you did, and I have seen others like @JeremyMakesThings do it that way. This was more of an exercise in can I do it than anything else. Plus, if I decide to machine another one, I have the fixture for it!
Greg, what about running that on a surface grinder to get it close before scraping?
I think it's possible I could even use the fixture I made. But my surface grinder, even if it was in working condition, is only a 6x12, so I don't think it would fit. I have access to a 6x18, but it's in unknown condition. It powers on, but I don't know much else about it. In any case, I don't think the scraping will be too bad as it is. I will just have to get under the swirls first.
👍👍 more scraping
I will definitely try!
Good Job, would be nice to see the scraping.
Stay tuned... ;)
Great job Greg, Both on the straight edge and the universal head drive gear. I have a 1942 K&T 2HL I rebuilt 40 years ago with the same universal head and the factory made drive gear. Your drive gear is a nearly exact copy of the factory gear. Should work very nicely ! A file hardness check on the gear shows a heat treatment to about Rockwell 45C to 50C.
I am interested in a bluing check of the angle face. My 82 year old table has some sag from gravity, aging of the iron or wear and doesn't mill flat surfaces any more. The 0,020" sag from center to ends imparts a curve in the cut from the now curved table dove tails. I would expect about 3 to 4 thousands out of flat from the sag milled into a 12" straight edge on my 2HL.
I look forward to a scraping video......
Well, it's good to know that the gear is what we were all hoping. Although this one is not hardened, nor will it be as it is made from 1018. I don't know that I will use it enough in what years I have left on the planet to wear it out, I suppose. When I start to scrape in the prism face, I will blue it up first just to see how it looks. Should be interesting.
@@MyLilMule My 2HL had been robbed for parts to keep another mill running. I got it for scrap. Had to make 3 gears and a shifter for the spindle gear box. Used cold rolled steel and 1144. I didn't harden them and have 40 years use. Opened it up to fix a shifter taper pin a couple years ago and the gears look good. Face of teeth polished by use and work hardened the surface. Minimal wear.
Nice job. Dont forget to reheat it to relief machining tension. Tilting the cutting head a degree will allow a rear relief for the tool now seems like both edges are touching the surface.
It's already been stress relieved. No need.
Those machining marks will be gone after a couple passes of scraping.
I have the exact one from Martin.
It would be nice to see how you go about scraping it flat. It was my first project that I did.
Nice work.
Joe
Thanks for watching!
There can never be too many scraping videos on TH-cam. I'm curious, did you stone the bottom surface of the straight edge before taking it to the surface plate? What you're seeing could just be burrs from the milling cutter.
I don't recall if I stoned it before or after, TBH.
Hi. If you want use this straight edge, after milling you need annealed or standing her for about 6-12 mounts, better if annealed and stay in one place. Much better, if straight edge been in outside of your workshop: rain, snow, cold, warm can help to minimize inside stress of cast iron. After all you can scraping this. Sorry my English.
It has already been stress relieved.
@@MyLilMule after two weeks first scraping, measure your results and make video, and after one mounts after second scraping
Scraping video will be nice
Thanks. Appreciate the input.
I after milling my Rucker 9" camelback straight edge I surface ground it. Plenty precise for what I do. Probably would need a 6x18 SG to be able to do yours.
It would save me some time, that's for sure.
Film the scraping please!
Stay tuned!
Scraping video please.
Thanks for the input and for watching!
⭐🙂👍
👌🏻
WAY too over constrained.
✌🏻
Being that it’s a casting, it’s far from flat. Your fixture is what’s causing the swirl marks.
You should only have three points of contact instead of an entire row of bolts.
Essentially what’s happening is….that whole area that you’re bolting down on is not flat or straight and there’s certainly allot of twist. When you clamp down, your twisting and bending the casting also, which in turn creates stress points throughout the part.
As youre machining deeper and deeper, that stress is being released and that’s causing the swirl marks.
You need to have just three contact points underneath that webbing. This way when you clamp down on the casting you’re not twisting it. You almost want it to stay naturally twisted when you clamp it. If that makes any sense….
👍🏻