BMW E70 Tailgate Latch Failure (Updated Fixed)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 ต.ค. 2024
- In my first video on how to fix a malfunctioning E70 rear door, I missed two place holder holes on the back of the slam plate. The initial fix works but it backs out of alignment after opening and closing the tailgate for a couple of weeks. This video is an update to address that issue.
Parts used:
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I keep an assorted set of nuts and bolts on hand.
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If you don't want to buy this whole set you will just need two M3 Metric Machine Screws or something equivalent.
Link to my first video addressing the tailgate failing to latch:
• Upper tailgate latch f...
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I think they should send you to the engineering dept to tell them about our pain. Awesome job man.
Thanks, appreciate it.
i am lucky to have found your video. i got a 2013 50i m sport yesterday with the same issue. thanks
I'm glad it was helpful.
I don’t know if originally there should be screws, mine is too without it . And same times comes error trunk is opened and then disappears. I will try that too . Thanks
My X5 is an E70 2013 also. I have been having this problem on and off for a few years. I align the latch and it works for a while. I will give this fix a try and let you know.
Thanks for sharing this video and fix!
Taking your suggestion I was able to align the latch, and it now works …keeping my fingers crossed!
@HV71851 so did it work?
Yes, it did.
Hi Danny, is this fix still working for you?
Yes this hasn't been a problem since I made this video.
cheers, I'm going to tighten the bolts first and if it comes back try this approach@@crashboxfly1
Another comment said they had success with just tightening the bolts and using a little threadlocker, that very well may do the trick. My method ensures aliment but there's no harm in trying to just tighten the bolts first. That's what I did originally but it eventually became misaligned again, which is why I figured out to use the holes further back.
Hey Danny, you’re the only one that I’ve seen with the same exact issue as my car, it’s crazy. I tried doing exactly what you said, but I’m still having the same issue. It happens about 95% of the time, and it rarely closes fully. Did this permanently fix your problem ? Thank you for posting this video btw
Yes this seems to have fixed it permanently for me. Granted it's only been a few weeks, but so far so good. In my first video about this I didn't see those holes in the back that's why I made this one. In my first video I went over some other things people would claim caused the issue just to be more comprehensive.
Maybe try to realigne it without using those two holes in the back. See if you can get it to close by trying different positions. Maybe try to realigne it and close it while leaving the bolts loose. That may give you an idea on if it really is an alignment issue or something else. Let me know if that helps, I tried a bunch of other fixs before I figured out this was my problem. I'm happy to try and help.
The problem is the one original screw on the right doesn’t work well, the threads are done. So I’m guessing it keeps getting thrown if alignment since I’m working only with one screw. I had no choice but try to make it work like you. I might have to replace the piece
Thanks for your help
If you go to your local hardware store they should be able to match that screw for you so you can just get a new one. If you think the hole itself has damaged threads they will probably have a tap and die set or the correct tap size individually and you can use that to repair the threads. I don't know what your experience is with such things but a tap and die is pretty easy to use, there has to be a lot of TH-cam videos on how to use one. That would definitely be a lot cheaper than buying a new latch mechanism.
Lots of semi accurate info here. However, the objective is to first align door mechanically, which isn't really our issue here... THEN loosen the 2 large button head torx screws a tiny amount, maybe half turn, to allow soft close motor to be adjusted. THEN loosen the 2 inboard small torx screws and very carefully slide latch toward you (rearward) a half millimeter and snug all screws again. Recheck function. The objective is to make sure the soft close pull tab DOES NOT touch the upper latch as you close the upper door. Any contact and it thinks a micro switch sensed a problem and powers soft close system to release...
Often, this happens accidentally (often) and you just need a reset of the soft close module to act normal again. This ecu and fuse is NOT the same as tailgate module, or lift module. Easiest to just open trunk fully, disconnect batt for a few min and it'll cycle again(as long as latch isn't touching soft close latch, which will find you in a viscous loop)
I tried disconnecting the battery when this happened to me but it didn't help. I talk about a lot of the things I tried in an earlier video. It was only when I noticed the slam plate/ lower latch wasn't aligned that I managed to fix it. Thanks for your input though, the reason I made the video is because I had a terrible time trying to figure out what the problem was and I wanted to help others with the same problem. Any input or tips from other people are welcome.
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Can you close the gate with keyfob?
I never used the key fob to open and close because the alarm was very sensitive. I'm not sure if it will close with the keyfob or not and I've sold the X5 so I can't check unfortunately.
Nope easy way to fix this problem take those big bolts out but only do one at a time apply locktite and be done did mine 4 yrs ago no rattle since also you can adjust the bump stops aswell to fix the rattle issue both methods work
I can see why that would work but you also might put it back misaligned. The reason I use clips is because it should put the eye in the correct alignment. I addressed the bump stops in an earlier video, they had nothing to do with my specific case though.