Thank you so much. This saved me a ton of time. As a side note I have a 21 Gas Gas EC300 and these instructions were spot on for it as well. Much much easier than the manual or other methods.
Thanks for the great video, I used your method this afternoon on a 22TE300i RS worked like a charm once I removed the skid plate 😄 keep up the videos, I really enjoy watching your stuff!
FWIW, I was able to get the shock out without unbolting the expansion pipe. I just pulled it toward the frame as far as the rubber mount would allow and the shock slipped past.
Nice video. It's really easy to just take off the swingarm like the manual says. While you're at it, you can grease all the bearings and linkage but of course your bike is new :)
@@BlueDawnEnduro 🤣 I didn't read far enough down. Looks like someone said the exact thing I did 4 months ago. These bikes are beasts. Hopefully you're enjoying yours!
@@BlueDawnEnduro I was sold on your "out the side" method until I saw how dry that bolt was. I think it's worth the time to pull the swing arm and all the linkage and put a little grease on. That job is a 4 out of 10 on difficulty. Filming it by yourself easily makes it an 8! Thanks for the effort, enjoy your bike and ride safe!
I've had the rear shock of my GTX FSE-R out several times... GTX is a clone(at least at this rear section) of the Husky TE, I remove the shock the same way.
I bought from Slavens Racing in Colorado (online store). His generic brand - I've bought Racetech in the past, but I don't think paying extra for a spring is worth it. See his weight chart here: slavensracing.com/shop/shock-springs-straight-rate-linkage-ktm-125-450/?attribute_pa_shock-springs3=cr62260l-54w-5-4kgmm-white
@@FLYNXC I use RaceTech's website as a cross reference. Rider experience/preference will go a long way in determining whether to adjust from the charts up or down a bit.
You don’t have to go through all this procedure. You do have to remove the silencer. You don’t have to remove the brake master, gas tank. After removing the linkage and shock bolts, jack up the rear tire to close proximity to the rear under fender, and the spring/shock will slide to the bottom. Then remove the header and the shock will come out the top/side. There’s multiple videos of this procedure with more knowledgeable service procedures for KtM/Husky/GasGas.
This procdure didn't touch the brake or linkage. You gotta link for one of them vids? Because the swing hole doesn't seem large enough regardless of angle.
Is this just to replace spring? With bike on stand the shock nut easily spins. To change rear spring always just loosen nut and take linkage bolts out and drop spring right out. 10 Minutes. You keep saying 60 and 50 mm. Stock spring is 240mm, slavens carries 260mm. And spring preload is like 8mm.
you shouldnt put the loctite on those linkage bolts before putting them through the bushings. i know your greasing the bolt too but that loctite is getting all inside those holes and bushings when you do that. put the bolt through then put the loctite on.
Great video but I saw your comment and thought the same thing. Actually I just put mine back together with blue loctite and put it on the bolt first (after I said I wouldn't) but completely forgot because I was in a rush. Do you think putting it on before inserting will cause any serious issues? Just wondering if I should take it off now, clean it, redo it as you suggested or not. Next time for sure but wondering if I should redo sooner. Thanks for any suggestions.
@@BlueDawnEnduro I'm sorry there must have been a miscommunication, when you said double torx fitting you were talking about the bolts to get it off right? When I mentioned the spanner wrench I was talking about the wrench that loosens the "compression collar" my bad on my husky its red
@@samuelyeet6006 aah, The compression collar. I would use the special tool for that depending on the year of your shock. My '21 the collar is made of plastic so using a hammer with a punch or screwdriver would work but might permanently mess-up that plastic collar
Thank you so much. This saved me a ton of time. As a side note I have a 21 Gas Gas EC300 and these instructions were spot on for it as well. Much much easier than the manual or other methods.
Thanks for the great video, I used your method this afternoon on a 22TE300i RS worked like a charm once I removed the skid plate 😄 keep up the videos, I really enjoy watching your stuff!
Excellent work, thank you for investing the time to make this video.
Just what I needed. Thanks for the video.
Hello, I followed your process and it works great. 2021 FX350.
FWIW, I was able to get the shock out without unbolting the expansion pipe. I just pulled it toward the frame as far as the rubber mount would allow and the shock slipped past.
Nice video. It's really easy to just take off the swingarm like the manual says. While you're at it, you can grease all the bearings and linkage but of course your bike is new :)
Ya, now that I have 70 hours on the bike I'll want to rebuild the linkage anyway and grease the swing ;)
@@BlueDawnEnduro 🤣 I didn't read far enough down. Looks like someone said the exact thing I did 4 months ago. These bikes are beasts. Hopefully you're enjoying yours!
Your awesome man thanks
Great video and well explained👍
thank you. glad it helped
I removed the swingarm and just slid it back a little and the shock came out the bottom. While I was at it I greased all the linkage bearings too.
Good idea to hit the grease while your at it!
@@BlueDawnEnduro I was sold on your "out the side" method until I saw how dry that bolt was. I think it's worth the time to pull the swing arm and all the linkage and put a little grease on. That job is a 4 out of 10 on difficulty. Filming it by yourself easily makes it an 8! Thanks for the effort, enjoy your bike and ride safe!
Hi Blue dawn..Is that a 5.4KG Spring you put on? that looks rather Stiff! I am 230 with gear and I put on a 4.8
I don't remember exactly off the top. Its based upon weight, ability, and type of riding. I'm a tall and large guy.
I've had the rear shock of my GTX FSE-R out several times... GTX is a clone(at least at this rear section) of the Husky TE, I remove the shock the same way.
Do you know what springs you size and brand you did? I’m about to setup my 22 te300 it’s spring so light from factory, and I weigh about 250
I bought from Slavens Racing in Colorado (online store). His generic brand - I've bought Racetech in the past, but I don't think paying extra for a spring is worth it. See his weight chart here: slavensracing.com/shop/shock-springs-straight-rate-linkage-ktm-125-450/?attribute_pa_shock-springs3=cr62260l-54w-5-4kgmm-white
@@BlueDawnEnduro I own three of the bikes listed, or the three, two stock referenced, and two upgrades listed are incorrect for the bikes I own.
@@FLYNXC I use RaceTech's website as a cross reference. Rider experience/preference will go a long way in determining whether to adjust from the charts up or down a bit.
You don’t have to go through all this procedure. You do have to remove the silencer. You don’t have to remove the brake master, gas tank. After removing the linkage and shock bolts, jack up the rear tire to close proximity to the rear under fender, and the spring/shock will slide to the bottom. Then remove the header and the shock will come out the top/side. There’s multiple videos of this procedure with more knowledgeable service procedures for KtM/Husky/GasGas.
This procdure didn't touch the brake or linkage. You gotta link for one of them vids? Because the swing hole doesn't seem large enough regardless of angle.
@@BlueDawnEnduro I’ll have to check my new 22’ TX 300 and see if it has changed. (Ability to come out the top/side).
@@BlueDawnEnduro It goes down into the swing hole, and then up past the mudguard, can remove the mud-guard to make it easier.
Is this just to replace spring? With bike on stand the shock nut easily spins. To change rear spring always just loosen nut and take linkage bolts out and drop spring right out. 10 Minutes. You keep saying 60 and 50 mm. Stock spring is 240mm, slavens carries 260mm. And spring preload is like 8mm.
It’s a lot easier to flip the back up
you shouldnt put the loctite on those linkage bolts before putting them through the bushings. i know your greasing the bolt too but that loctite is getting all inside those holes and bushings when you do that. put the bolt through then put the loctite on.
Great video but I saw your comment and thought the same thing. Actually I just put mine back together with blue loctite and put it on the bolt first (after I said I wouldn't) but completely forgot because I was in a rush. Do you think putting it on before inserting will cause any serious issues? Just wondering if I should take it off now, clean it, redo it as you suggested or not. Next time for sure but wondering if I should redo sooner. Thanks for any suggestions.
That’s good but dude you have to tear everything apart and grease it : swing arm, linkage, steering bearing etc…
Anying else I can use if I dont have that spanner wrench?
Most of the bolts have a double torx fitting. You gotta have one or the other
@@BlueDawnEnduro huh? Sorry not sure what you mean, I was talking about the big red plastic nut that adjust the spring load
@@samuelyeet6006 ???
@@BlueDawnEnduro I'm sorry there must have been a miscommunication, when you said double torx fitting you were talking about the bolts to get it off right? When I mentioned the spanner wrench I was talking about the wrench that loosens the "compression collar" my bad on my husky its red
@@samuelyeet6006 aah, The compression collar. I would use the special tool for that depending on the year of your shock. My '21 the collar is made of plastic so using a hammer with a punch or screwdriver would work but might permanently mess-up that plastic collar
that looks like a rocket!!! 🚀
I think the least intrusive way to change the spring is to do it with the shock still in place... but thats me ;)
thanks!!