CRK Sebenza: Lockup Trick
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 พ.ค. 2012
- This is a reliable and safe way to make the lockup on your sebenza earlier than it is now. This has not failed to work yet, so it's fair to say it will most likely work for you.
If you're not familiar with the knife or you aren't used to tinkering around, then I'd probably leave it alone. For you guys that are confident you can work on things, give it a try!
Hi! Thank you for the trick! It works not only on a Sebenza. So simple solution for a mind blowing problem.
I was a little skeptical considering the tight tolerances of the seb. To my surprise, it works and works nicely. Thank you.
Thanks. Worked well on my Emerson CQC-7. Lock was almost touching the show side. This brought it back to about 55%.
Just tried it on mine, totally worked. Nice trick dude thanks!
Thank you! Worked great. Finally gives my thumb a break!!
Always enjoy your vids,thanks.
Wow this one is like magic, it really works!
Thanks very much for your tip. Just received my new Small Sebenza 21 Insingo today and after following your advice, the lockup is now reset to 50% from approximately 90%. I'm extremely impressed, thanks once again!
Just wanted to say, I found this and tried it on a second hand ZT 0450 that had late lock up, and is much better now, thanks!
Awesome, glad to hear it!
Thanks for the movie mention. Big help!
Great info John!
That is a good tip, I am going to try that and see how that works
very interesting. I have used this trick in the past on other knives but I am surprised to see it work on a sebenza. You would think with CRK famously tight tolerances that there wouldnt be enough give to the parts to have that dramatic of an effect. Very cool.
Very cool trick!
Thanks so much for this tip. It worked great. my sebenza now has early lock up and no more sticky lock. I just got the edge pro and have watched all your videos. your info has helped me a great deal. I have one question. how do you sharpen a small sebenza on the edge pro. The stonel hits the thumb stud and you cannot remove. Is there a way? Thanks again.
Great video - thank you!
Thank´s John it worked perfect!
Neat trick John!
Bro! Thank you so much. I was tripping. I just got a used sebenza 21 black micarta to go with my Inkosi black micarta, and the lockup on the sebenza was at 95% and I was thinking I was going to have to send it in to the factory. Awesome video brother thank you so much.
Oh good, glad it helped! Enjoy your knife.
@@jdavis882 thanks brother!
Dang Dude, Why aren't you saying "Allah" before saying Lock bar.
Omfg i just died laughing. Best comment ever!
Wow, cool trick..that's awesome.
Thanks just did this to my new Insingo, worked great. I noticed on mine that the blade swings freely when disengaged. Thanks.
That's a great trick......thanks.
That's pretty much what I was thinking as well. The lock bar is now in effect "longer" in relation to the blade due to the offset.
Again great vid. Keep it up
It very work!! thank you
Nice info, thanks
I discovered that years ago and I made a crappy microsoft paint drawing demonstrating that. I think I posted it in blade forums. I think I advised to tap the lock side’s bottom while screws were slightly snug then fully tightening them after. Same result. It’s just ever so slightly shifting the slabs within their minute tolerances to one edge or the other.
lmao, what too, do you use to take apart the folding bits? just a strange observation kind of like when people use scissors to open a new clam shell pack of well scissors...
That's an awesome trick..I just need a sebenza to try it on
Thanks for the video jd.
that was awesome. I'm trying that on my sage 2>
It works because you're offsetting the scale with the lock bar further forward ever so slightly. Since the locking face is slanted, this will make you contact the locking face early in the slant. If you measured the centering of the blade before/after with a caliper, you should see that the blade is ever so slightly further to one side that the other, but clearly not visibly so based on your results.
Thanks for sharing!
What about spinning the little bar the blade sits on, I think the banging of the blade to the back bar may cause a small flat spot?
Definitely a cool trick. wonder how many other knives it will work on. Kinda similar to fixing a Militarys blade centering.
cool trick!
Thanks you rock!
Very cool.
Nice, I saw V6 upload this same trick a bit ago, it's very very handy :)
The process CRK uses doesn't apply a layer like carbonization does. When carbidizing you are actually applying a layer of foreign material to the Ti.
What CRK does is different. It doesn't apply a layer of a foreign material. It essentially forms a hard oxide layer over the soft Ti. It's all in the "Exquisite Blade," which is a movie put out by CRK. Watch it, it's great!
All of the old ones I've handled (only 4) have been really early. Guess those were the exception.
Supposedly you can do this with any framelock or linerlock even. I think Jeff from Karg Knives once did this for a ZT0551. Good reminder for early and late lock ups.
@Kahrrr Not on any of the ten I've done. The first one I did was over a month ago and it's still exactly where it was.
Should I sell all my folders and my otf for a sebenza? Honestly back when I only had 1 edc knife was so much more enjoyable to me and I really want a damn sebenza, plus the 21's are going soon and I dont like the 25's at all
In my experience the regular Sebenzas sometimes had early lockups but for the most part the Classic and 21's lockup has been at 50% + for the most part.
wow thank you
Is their any trick too make the Lock bar not so dam hard too disengage?
this is a good trick, i have to do this on my zt 0551 inorder for it to lock up tight and it works great. id love to see how you make your sebenza smoother! not sure if mine needs it but im still curious.
Q: Hi I'm picking up one next week unless I find a baca folder I'm looking for. Can you thin the washer for me? Thanks
When you say it gets rid of stick, do you mean it gets rid of that Hydraulic feeling Stick? Or seriously bad stick that makes you have to push hard and makes a loud sound?
Damn!! Thanks!!
Pretty cool vid, I am kind of shocked that a Reeve is subject to this trick.
I tried this a couple weeks ago and now my Sebenza is tighter than it was, even after breaking it down and putting it back together with lubrication TWICE lol. I'm seriously bummed out and I'm almost positive I'm going to have to send it back in and pay to get it fixed. Anybody have any insight?
Does that bench made tool work on the Spdy Southard is so what the name of the tool, again? Ty.
tolerances on the individual pieces like the holes in the handle scales, the sizes of the standoffs, and alinement of the pieces allow this to happen. Cool trick though!
I think carbidizing will work and Ive already tried to sell it with disclosure and it didn't work thanks to heather.... but worst comes to worse I use the hell out of it until it no longer functions :) either way I'm gonna post in the crk forum to show the carbidizing.
Can anyone tell me the advantages of early vs late lockup?
good trick. It's simple. your actually just making the lockbar taller by pushing the locking side up making it come into contact with the tang earlier.
WOW 10 YEARS LATER THE KNIVES THAT I CAN SEE IN YOUR COLLECTION ON THE SIDE ARE STILL HIGLY FAVORED
Thx 4 sharing
Yup, that's my guess as well. My only question would be how long would it take to shift back into into position?
would this work on a tenacious?
Neat trick, but is it necessary before the lock bar is close to 100%? I mean does it affect the rate at which the lock bar wears? I don't know what the smoothing trick is, but my small sebenza's blade falls freely when I disengage the lock bar after lubing it with CRK grease (+ one months worth of pocket lint).
JDavis, do you have any Sharpening Videos on Striders? I'd appreciate it if you could do one if it's needed. Thanks a TON.........🤝🏾🇺🇸💪🏾
where did you get the allen tool?
I've tried this a few times on my new sebbie, and for some reason I can't seem to get it to work despite following your instructions to the tee... I guess it's not a big deal, but I'm just puzzled as to why it's not really working. :S
Would that work on a sebenza 31? Since the 31 has different lock geometry now.
I thought carburizing was a case hardnening method for steel, and the thing people do to lock bars as called carbidization because it involves depositing a thin layer of tungsten carbide on the surface with an electric current.
Lazy Lizard Gear your correct. They don't know what they are talking about. You can't "carburize" titanium. Carburization is introducing carbon into an alloy before forging to ensure and adequate amount of carbon is in the alloy upon completion. Forging and heating all degrade carbon from metals. Carbidazation is the process of applying a carbide to another surface. In the knife world it would usually be tungsten carbide, because of its extreme hardness and wear resistance
Worked on my Knife Art carbon fiber. Took it from about 80%+ to around 50 or 55%
what neptune video do you speak of? I don't think I saw that one.
does this work on other ti framelocks?
I was wondering if you could tell me of an all around good site for knives and knife products in general? I'm a new subscriber so sorry if you've already mentioned it before.
Hmmm.. That is awesome
Awesome trick, did you come up with it?
Doesn't it work because you're very very minimally moving the locking side up towards the blade, so because of the angle it locks at it touches it earlier, therefore locking earlier?
What's problem of late lockup
@jdavis882 why do you have 3 plan sebenzas, why not any with inlays?
Burkinater 48 only inlay I like is micarta and I do own those.
@donotstealmythunder Due to the construction of the 0561 it won't work on that knife.
i just got a lock fail on my 2006 classic small sebenza (early lock), my 21 have a late lock up witch i now think is greater lol
Does anyone experience early lockup after assembling their seb21? I follow the CRK disassembly and cleaning vid and put it together the way they do and every time the lock up is super early, like 20% only, always have to adjust it like this video for a later lockup.
Yeah I have experienced that. Sometimes it helps to open the blade with some force before locking down all the screws. Let the lock settle in with a nice quick opening with the screws slightly loose, then crank them down when it’s opened. That sometimes helps.
Jdavis882 - Knife Sharpening and Reviews
This worked! Thank you
If screws are loosened in this manner and tightened down, could the washers get pinched? Not trying to cause controversy, I want to try this
Nvm, thinking about it logistically, it wouldn’t. Thx for the vid.
Hey bud if u know anyone selling a large sebenza or strider sng for 300 let me know please thanks
So, in effect the two treatments are different.
No one that I know of to date uses the method that CRK does. Everyone else just carbidizes the lock face. Carbidization wears off pretty rapidly in wear points, the carburization oxide layer doesn't. It can withstand literally tens of thousands of openings without wearing through.
What's the benefit of a early lockup?
This trick seems to work by slightly shifting the allignment of the knife scales. By doing that, the pivot moves slightly downward while the lock interface moves up, and that leads to the change in lockup. I tried this but ultimately my lockup goes back to about 60-65% because I didn't torque my screws down. I wouldn't do this unless you want it bad enough to slightly deform your countersinks in the titanium.
That said, if you were to do that carefully, it should work fine. I'd rather ask crk to give you a slightly earlier lockup and send it in to adjust the lock bar tension or replace the blade if need be.
holy shit it worked!!!!!
wondering when you were going to put this up. My sebenza works but still has a little play so I'm going to get tuffthumbz to carbidize the lock. Chris isn't much of a help right now.
What is the name of the manufacturer that makes the folding tool set used
Really? He said this BENCHMADE tool lol ;)
I can see why early lockup is important for a liner lock but why for a frame lock?
@WeaversofEternity That's weird man it's worked for everyone else so far. Are you sure you're getting the scales apart before you apply pressure and tighten it back down? Maybe make a private vid showing what you're doing and I'll see if you're doing anything differently?
My blade is also absoulytle centerde now!
Dude that blows. If that carbadizing doesn't work I'd just try to sell it full disclosure, or something. It's just a bad deal all around.
I always check my lock faces for flaking now. It's safe to assume that if it flakes, you're SOL. He will never believe that we didn't abuse the knife somehow.
@jaylang11 It literally was. Haha
I think he's just worried that it will wear to the other side. The earlier the lockup, the longer the lock will last. After a lock wears to the other side, I could see how further wear would cause lock rock or blade play of some sort, because the lock bar isn't pushed hard against the tang.
Nope I've never really tried it on anything else. As long as the stand offs don't have bosses in them this should work.
i think its magic
Nope, I actually checked for that. It doesn't really move the scales any appreciable amount. They are still square and plum. It may move a total of 1 thou.
Couldn’t you just bend the lockbar out carefully to make the lockup earlier? I’ve done the opposite (to make the lockup later)
Unfortunately no. The “self adjusting” nature of frame locks prevents you from forcing them to lock up earlier by removing tension. If you bend the lock bar out and remove tension, then yes the lock bar won’t move as far over....but it also won’t be forcing itself into the blade tang - so there will be a slight gap which will result in play in the lockup. The frame lock moves over as far as it needs to in order to mate itself to the blade tang. It “self adjusts.” Remove tension and it can no longer do that. I wish, though!
Hi, just watch this video, is it gonna work in inkosi?
The inkosi doesn’t have a pivot bushing like the seb, but you can still do this mod. It’s just a little bit different. I should post an updated video showing the process on the inkosi and umnumzaan.
@@jdavis882 yes please 👍thanks, I feel a bit lock tight if i wanna close the blade, got the sound from the ceramic ball but still ok
Could this be something that was intentionally designed into the knife?
My thoughts exactly, Sebenza's lock is somewhat known for failing due to lock slippage. Don't believe me? Watch Cold Steel's video comparison with a Sebenza and you'll understand. So my theory is that CRK made their lockup later to help prevent lock failure.