Hi David, I think you are doing a fantastic job so far with your transom replacement! I would recommend leaving the corners in place. Grind away the gelcoat and a bit of fiberglass to create a bevel on either side of the "wrong " cut, then fill the cut with strips of fiberglass to add back some strength. After it has cured, sand the repair flush, and sand the corners aggressively, removing all the gelcoat in preparation for the new fiberglass, which should wrap around the corners so as to make it as one solid piece again. Then, you should use a fairing filler to shape and smooth the surface and finish with gelcoat or paint.I hope that is helpful, and I wish you all the best!
Absolutely agree (with experience from Reliant cars back in the day!). Think weld prep shallow 'V' cutouts. You used to be able to buy filler that was made from impregnated shopped strands. Horrible messy stuff but really strong when used in this type of application. Then cover with mat as usual per the above.
Another chapter in the Twiggy restoration-🙌🫶 you remind me of my can do dad but you are more professional. Can I suggest "workmans" knee pads? The ground must be cold and damp. Thinking of the future😂 - must care for self also me thinks😂 NOTE no mention of age!! Thanks from wonkey knees Jan Adelaide
@@CruisingTheCut As mentioned by a few others, open out the cut and then as you have access to the inside, add many layers of matting to cover the cut, this will add strength. Recommend using Cabosil glass beads mixed with resin to make a filler which you can sculpt to a nice curve profile.
@James-In-Exile Yes! I'm not sure how much pressure YT makes to encourage vloggers to "Juice Up" their submissions, but I'll take David's punny titles over the non-descriptive or clickbait titles every time.
Make sure when rolling the air bubbles out that you only apply weight equivalent of the roller and your wrist no actual physical force or you end up squishing out the resin and making it thin and a less resin to glass composite. Sometimes you need more force to get the bubbles out but this is due to running out of time with it setting up. I'm guessing you likely know this but thought I'd say just incase as this is absolutely crucial to a strong laminate.
Whenever I hear this music it instantly takes me back to 2019 when I started watching you and the joy of discovering the canal network. I hope these videos continue for a long time because you are a sort of therapy that I feel we should all be paying towards 😅.
Hi David, what I would do with regards to your cut on the starboard corner as an aircraft mechanic who has done a fair few fibreglass repairs is grind out your cut so you have space on either side (approx 50mm either side as you said) and run a patch from top to bottom, and when you fit the new transom plywood cover the entire transom with new fibreglass and wrap around the corner blending the repair into the rest of the panel. If you scallop the cut well enough it should be fairly smooth without needing too much filler. Not sure your plans with regards to surface finish once complete but I imagine you should be able to bring it all together quite easily. I don't think cutting out the entire section would be worth it with it being single skin and presumably quite important structurally, plus getting that area back up to full thickness would take a lot of matting and resin where you already have existing structure that you may as well keep Just my 2p's worth Keep up the good work and keep the vids coming, loving the content so far :D
You can also intentionally create a bit of a bulge of new glass out around the curve of the transom to the starboard side of the hull then match that bulge on the port corner.
Yes! The corner is an important structural element, but everything is fixable. You need to build back the strength, not just cover it to keep the water out. AEHazz has described a good repair, including the full wrap from the transom. You might also add a layer or two on the inside of the hull. You really do not want this corner to fail after all of your other work.
I'm glad to see Twiggy in the hands of a caring soul. Too often in life too many useful things are thrown to the wayside in favor of expediency. Kudos to you for caring.
ahh! I wish the videos were longer. I'm not a Boaty but I love watching you repair the boat. Your narration is excellent, and I get totally absorbed in the project.
You’re a master David, it would appear as if you’d been fibreglassing for decades, well done sir. Oh, and you’re an extraordinarily fast worker too, the Benny Hill music would seem appropriate.
Am I the only one that thinks of Wallace & Grommit every time David mentions cheese sandwich. Another excellent relaxing video, now to Betty on a boat for my full evening relaxation therapy.
-Breaking Bad- ❌ Badly Broken ✅ This is marine grade. I mean, you got...Jesus, you got chop strand mat in here 2 feet, 3 feet long. This is pure fibreglass. You're a damn artist! This is art, Mr. Cut!"
David - just loving this twiggy series - she is going to be a cutie once finished ! Looking forward to seeing you zipping around the canals in her - it will be fun for you and us 🚤❤🎉!
This will likely be the last update over winter as it's too cold and wet and miserable to continue for the next couple of months or so. But it will carry on in the fullness of time!
I'd say that was a queen wasp or hornet that had decided to use your fibreglass sheet as a hibernating spot. You can see as you unfold the last bit, the queen flies out. The new queens are looking for a nice place for hibernating through the winter. Then they emerge in spring to start new nests. So take care getting into any jackets or boots you've had lying around. Great job BTW on the boat. I'm thoroughly enjoying watching your progress. 😊
I could watch David work all day on boats. Once again, you've made one of those boat mysteries previously terrifying to me much clearer. Thanks for that, enjoy a Cheese Sandwich I just bought. I'm off to rewatch Painting the Bilge.
Its looking good David. On the corners, I would just grind the gelcoat down till you get back to the original fiber and then wrap the whole corner. This will give you the strongest bond. Then its just a matter of how oretty you want it. Use thickened resin to putty it up and then sand it down as much as you like to satisfy its look. You can get it extremely smooth and then spray or have someone spray 2 part gelcoat paint that will give you and like new surface or just stop before that and be happy with the sanded out thickened resin finish which is what I would do.
Agreed. Creating the shape of fibreglass pieces is the hard bit. Just adding layers to an existing shape is easy. Getting a smooth finish takes time, but that will need doing either way.
I’d probably open up the slot a little or chamfer it at least then squeeze a load of construction adhesive in there till it oozes out then clean up the excess, but of sanding then as you say overlap it with fibreglass.
Jolly good hooray ..becoming the expert now David. Mulling over is always a good idea..I take my hat off to you,,,It really is looking good well done.Till next time take care.
Sorry to say, but I find a great deal of satisfaction sitting in my comfy chair by a fire with my feet up in slippers watching a timelapse video of someone working in a boatyard with fiberglass in a mask for 10 minutes... Well done!
Nice thing about Fiberglass is it's very forgiving. One can do almost anything they want. If a mistake is made, it's easily repaired. Nice job for a first time.
Hi David. Applying resin and fibreglass sheets for the first time is not for the faint hearted. You mad3 an excellent effort and your methodical approach is being amply rewarded. Good luck with the rest of this interesting and enjoyable series. 👏👏👍😀
I must admit, I underestimated how much resin this would take and thought you had mixed way too much... 😮 Looks great, can't wait for the finished job! 👍👍👍
David, regarding your problem corner: Can you make a structural repair on the *inside*? The repair will need to be strong, since you've cut right through the hull - scarf it over as large an area as possible, and then lay extra layers of glass over the whole area to build up the thickness and tie the repair into the rest of the hull. This would all be inside, and not visible, so would just need to be strong, rather than pretty. You would then have a largely cosmetic repair to do on the outside. You may need to carefully cut away the seat/bunk(?) base to get access and reinstate it afterwards, but that wouldn't be structural or very visible, so should be fairly straightforward to do. The important thing is that the cut corner needs STRENGTH.
@@CruisingTheCut That is maybe something you will have to do - nice straight cuts to remove them, then re-glass once the internal structural repair has been done. Good luck, whatever. :)
Cardboard templates are a boat restorer's friend. And you can use some silica power to make thickened resin to fill those 'extra' ventilation slits you cut, then grind the entire curve and wrap the whole thing in one continuous sheet of glass mat. For such a small area, you can skip the expense of 'Peel Ply' and just sand it all smooth enough to paint it with two part epoxy paint...
The force of the outboard engine pushing and pulling has the potential to try and rip the transom off the boat at the area where you cut around the side. Certainly, a patch will not be sufficient you need to make a fully reinforced repair. Ideally strengthen the cut area on the inside with a lot of fiberglass or combination of wood and fiberglass.
When using fibreglass resin or any other mixed glues etc., it is always a good idea to have another place ready for application, to USE UP the leftovers, I agree with FishBump, keep that RH corner, open up your saw cut and give that a really good sticking. Sand the corner back with course sanding, then wrap the whole corner. Make it really strong, because that is where you might bump the boat, look at the scuff marks there already. Good job David you are doing well.
Apologies David for my former maths teacher OCD: it’s square metres not metres squared. EG- 2 metres squared is 2x2=4; which is not 2 square metres, which would be 2x1=2. 😂The only time it’s the same is if you are talking about 1 sq m which of course is the same as 1 m squared (1x1)😂😂. Thus endeth the lesson
Good job fending off the hornet! I was stung on my hand years ago and it felt like my entire arm was on fire. Twiggy's rearend makeover is progressing nicely.
After you've finished your project, don't forget to install a bilge pump and connect it to a flotation switch that will automatically turn the pump on when Twiggy takes on water.
I never would’ve guessed you’d turn into a “project guy”; I was wrong, well done sir. You’ll appreciate having a wider squeegee during layups, maybe 6 inches or so.
I don't know how thick those corner pieces are, but what we always do is grind them back down to under the side piece and then do everything with large pieces of fiberglass. You can add resin filler to the small crack you have cut whit chop fiber string (you can get it at any good polyester store). You mix the fiber through the resin until you have the thickness of a peanut butter-like substance and fil it whit that and then the glass fiber cloth over that. build it up with layers and then grind it down to the correct thickness. then fill in any uneven areas. then apply the top coat over that and then the gel coat
I have almost zero interest in boats and diy however your enthusiasm, sense of humour and great presentation makes these videos unmissable for me. Well done and thank you.
I do admire your tenacity, positivity and patience in renovating Twiggy, David. Even though I have no interest in DIY, I find watching the process oddly therapeutic. It’s calming watching our engaging host, fully absorbed in a challenging task, especially when the project is a labour of love and the restoration of a sweet old boat.
My favourite videos on youtube! Always good content mate! A note on fibreglass work... if resin has fully cured in the case of the holes you filled first, then always sand before adding the next layer (such as the filler).. the cured resin has a shiny surface and the next layer will not bond well unless you sand first...
Breaking Bad? That gave the game away - now we know how you can afford all this fibreglass !! Seriously David this is so interesting. Ive often wondered how fibreglassing works. Thanks - and we await the next episode with interest.
Another interesting video, David. Your mathematical skills amaze me. I would have needed a calculator to figure all that mixing stuff out! Lol. And the hornet was a nice touch to the video. I'm still chuckling about that. I had a mad bee after me the other day. Crazy creatures. Thanks for the video. Looking forward to the next one.
As a retired chief marine engineer, I think you are a very brave man!! You are doing a very good job for a DIY'er!! I'm following this closely, as I need to do some deck repairs on my old 1959 Freeman 22 !
Hello David, My recommendation is that you do a sanding of the whole side and making a single repair, you will find that is the safest way to ensure waterproofness. Hope this helps. Thank you for sharing your journey.
Excellent job! I have to say I’m always impressed by how you set about doing entirely new things, with no experience, and then look as if you’re a pro at them! I just love your commentary too. Very informative but full of dry wit - a definite winner!
As always a multitude of great “resins” to watch David’s videos as he “glasses” over the task at hand and gets right into the sticky, stringy details, wildlife be warned! Absolutely riveting stuff… oh wait, that may come later…. 😉 💖
What does Fishbump say about that corner? I might just grind out a V, leave it very rough on the sides and then fill it with chop glass pieces with heavy filler in the epoxy/vinylester. Leaving it rough gives the epoxy something to key into which increases the bond. Do two or three batches if it runs. A shop vac on your random orbital would really help keep the dust down. What I always do is use a vacuum cleaner bag on the inside. Mostly I have to tape these to the in port with duct tape. The center pleated filters last forever. Without the bag they can clog up pretty quickly. The last one I bought for this cost me about $40 which is about 60 grams, or 2 square shillings... And adapters for the vac hose to your tool? I mostly just bootleg duct tape and whatever. Sometimes finding the right adapters is a real pain.
Here’s my Colonial 2 cents. Cut some course glass mat. Whip up a bit of thickened epoxy, use a small brush to wet the insides of the cracks. Use a flat edged putty knife to work the glass pieces into the cracks, add a bit more thickened epoxy to just overfill the crack lines. Sand the repair back, and at the same time, sand back the entire corner to accept another layer of glass that wraps all the way around like you want it. Add the gel-coat, paint, and you’re done! GOOD JOB!
I agree that leaving the rounded corner piece in place will allow the new fiberglass to keep the original shape and give it structure that would not be there if you remove it. Didn't David say that there was nothing behind it? And if the original piece was removed....I would think that the shape would be hard to replicate. I think you have hit on the solution....it will be interesting to see what he decides.
Agree with others. I’d g rind down any existing fiberglass on enough to thin it down ever so slightly and give it a “tooth” to adhere to. Then cover complete transom and wrap around both sides to cover all the scratches. Then go inside and reinforce the cut area with a filet of epoxy followed by several layers of cloth and epoxy spanning the cut area. I know this is not a large engine with high horsepower but transom strength is very important. Then once the fiberglass is sanded somewhat smooth you will have to scuff the hull and add fairing compound before final paint. This is just like drywall. You are covering the work to make it strong and fairing and sanding to make a smooth transition to the rest of the hull. Talking to my co-worker who has done 5 transoms I learned he always removed the inner fiberglass to remove rotted wood. I understand you had limited access on the inside.
I agree - there's a cut right through the hull - it isn't a 'crack' - so it needs building up on the inside to give the strength back, even if it means cutting away some of the inner 'furniture'. Trying to build it up on the outside will look awful.
With chopped strand mat there is no continuous fibre, so on the corner you need to put woven or stitched cloth on both the inside and the outside (having removed the gelcoat, obviously) going from the transom to the hull shell, to repair the very structural part of the boat you accidentally sliced through. Ideally, you want fibres going horixontally and at plus and minus 45 degrees to tie it all back together
A Kutzall Original Shaping Disc - Coarse used on an Angle Grider does amazing stock removal. We put a vacuum head on the grinder to aid in keeping the massive amounts of dust down. This works great for tapering edges, or removing old fillets.
Hi David, I think you are doing a fantastic job so far with your transom replacement! I would recommend leaving the corners in place. Grind away the gelcoat and a bit of fiberglass to create a bevel on either side of the "wrong " cut, then fill the cut with strips of fiberglass to add back some strength. After it has cured, sand the repair flush, and sand the corners aggressively, removing all the gelcoat in preparation for the new fiberglass, which should wrap around the corners so as to make it as one solid piece again. Then, you should use a fairing filler to shape and smooth the surface and finish with gelcoat or paint.I hope that is helpful, and I wish you all the best!
Thank you Captain Joe, that is very helpful, I really do appreciate you taking the time to watch and comment 🙏
Absolutely agree (with experience from Reliant cars back in the day!). Think weld prep shallow 'V' cutouts. You used to be able to buy filler that was made from impregnated shopped strands. Horrible messy stuff but really strong when used in this type of application. Then cover with mat as usual per the above.
Another chapter in the Twiggy restoration-🙌🫶 you remind me of my can do dad but you are more professional.
Can I suggest "workmans" knee pads? The ground must be cold and damp. Thinking of the future😂 - must care for self also me thinks😂 NOTE no mention of age!! Thanks from wonkey knees Jan Adelaide
@@CruisingTheCut As mentioned by a few others, open out the cut and then as you have access to the inside, add many layers of matting to cover the cut, this will add strength. Recommend using Cabosil glass beads mixed with resin to make a filler which you can sculpt to a nice curve profile.
As above, I would also add some mat to the inside of the cut and corner for reinforcement .
Can we all just pause for a second to applaud that "Resins to be cheerful" header? No one creates such witty headlines so consistently as David.
@James-In-Exile Yes! I'm not sure how much pressure YT makes to encourage vloggers to "Juice Up" their submissions, but I'll take David's punny titles over the non-descriptive or clickbait titles every time.
The only truly calming yt channel I'm subbed to. Been following this guy since highschool.
Definitely! One of David’s best! 😂
Let's be honest - all David's videos are just an excuse really - it's the punning titles that he really lives for !! 🤣🤣
only applaud if this is Part 3.
The Breaking Bad version of canal boats.
Against giant hornet-dragons.
This can't get any better.
Yet it does after every episode.
I still love it when you go into the Fast forward “Benny Hill mode”😂. I’m waiting for someone to come by and slap you on top of your head 😂
🤣
For a first timer in using fiberglass. I think you did an outstanding job
Thank you!
I agree with your assessment.
Totally agree, well done David.
Make sure when rolling the air bubbles out that you only apply weight equivalent of the roller and your wrist no actual physical force or you end up squishing out the resin and making it thin and a less resin to glass composite. Sometimes you need more force to get the bubbles out but this is due to running out of time with it setting up. I'm guessing you likely know this but thought I'd say just incase as this is absolutely crucial to a strong laminate.
Agreed wholeheartedly, David did a remarkably good job, especially for a beginner.
Whenever I hear this music it instantly takes me back to 2019 when I started watching you and the joy of discovering the canal network. I hope these videos continue for a long time because you are a sort of therapy that I feel we should all be paying towards 😅.
Ditto, I find the theme tune 'nostalgic'. 😊
thank you for wearing the respirator and taking resin seriously, important for people to see it done the right (safe) way!
Hi David, what I would do with regards to your cut on the starboard corner as an aircraft mechanic who has done a fair few fibreglass repairs is grind out your cut so you have space on either side (approx 50mm either side as you said) and run a patch from top to bottom, and when you fit the new transom plywood cover the entire transom with new fibreglass and wrap around the corner blending the repair into the rest of the panel. If you scallop the cut well enough it should be fairly smooth without needing too much filler. Not sure your plans with regards to surface finish once complete but I imagine you should be able to bring it all together quite easily.
I don't think cutting out the entire section would be worth it with it being single skin and presumably quite important structurally, plus getting that area back up to full thickness would take a lot of matting and resin where you already have existing structure that you may as well keep
Just my 2p's worth
Keep up the good work and keep the vids coming, loving the content so far :D
You can also intentionally create a bit of a bulge of new glass out around the curve of the transom to the starboard side of the hull then match that bulge on the port corner.
Agreed !
Yes! The corner is an important structural element, but everything is fixable. You need to build back the strength, not just cover it to keep the water out. AEHazz has described a good repair, including the full wrap from the transom. You might also add a layer or two on the inside of the hull. You really do not want this corner to fail after all of your other work.
Thus one really resinated
Hahaha I like that!
There’s something satisfying about Twiggy vaguely resembling a cheese sandwich.
People who say that nobody is doing great comedy anymore, obviously haven't seen any of David's videos. Always good for a chuckle 😊
Resins to be cheerful? The Dury's out on that pun David.
I see what you did there!
No idea what a dury is, but the jury approves 😂
🤣🤣🤣
@@ScottFidler Ian Dury & The Blockheads sang "Reasons To Be Cheerful"
I'm glad to see Twiggy in the hands of a caring soul. Too often in life too many useful things are thrown to the wayside in favor of expediency. Kudos to you for caring.
ahh! I wish the videos were longer. I'm not a Boaty but I love watching you repair the boat. Your narration is excellent, and I get totally absorbed in the project.
You’re a master David, it would appear as if you’d been fibreglassing for decades, well done sir.
Oh, and you’re an extraordinarily fast worker too, the Benny Hill music would seem appropriate.
Am I the only one that thinks of Wallace & Grommit every time David mentions cheese sandwich. Another excellent relaxing video, now to Betty on a boat for my full evening relaxation therapy.
David, even with a mouthful of cheese, you maintain your radio voice clarity. Thanks for all your entertaining videos.
-Breaking Bad- ❌
Badly Broken ✅
This is marine grade. I mean, you got...Jesus, you got chop strand mat in here 2 feet, 3 feet long. This is pure fibreglass. You're a damn artist! This is art, Mr. Cut!"
That hand sanding gave me flashbacks of the Six Million Dollar Man ! 🤣🤣
Imagine the bill to make him now!
David - just loving this twiggy series - she is going to be a cutie once finished ! Looking forward to seeing you zipping around the canals in her - it will be fun for you and us 🚤❤🎉!
This will likely be the last update over winter as it's too cold and wet and miserable to continue for the next couple of months or so. But it will carry on in the fullness of time!
Loved this one David!!! You're the best! Yes to that title!!!
Oh one of your finer pun titles - well played sir!
I'd say that was a queen wasp or hornet that had decided to use your fibreglass sheet as a hibernating spot. You can see as you unfold the last bit, the queen flies out. The new queens are looking for a nice place for hibernating through the winter. Then they emerge in spring to start new nests. So take care getting into any jackets or boots you've had lying around. Great job BTW on the boat. I'm thoroughly enjoying watching your progress. 😊
Twiggy already looks better off than before you started. Well done David!
Whew!! All that math made my head buzz... Looks like a job well done up to date... keep up the good work... Cheers from Tennessee, USA
I could watch David work all day on boats. Once again, you've made one of those boat mysteries previously terrifying to me much clearer. Thanks for that, enjoy a Cheese Sandwich I just bought. I'm off to rewatch Painting the Bilge.
Hornets/Wasps and boat stalls, name a more iconic duo.
Its looking good David. On the corners, I would just grind the gelcoat down till you get back to the original fiber and then wrap the whole corner. This will give you the strongest bond. Then its just a matter of how oretty you want it. Use thickened resin to putty it up and then sand it down as much as you like to satisfy its look. You can get it extremely smooth and then spray or have someone spray 2 part gelcoat paint that will give you and like new surface or just stop before that and be happy with the sanded out thickened resin finish which is what I would do.
Agreed. Creating the shape of fibreglass pieces is the hard bit. Just adding layers to an existing shape is easy. Getting a smooth finish takes time, but that will need doing either way.
I’d probably open up the slot a little or chamfer it at least then squeeze a load of construction adhesive in there till it oozes out then clean up the excess, but of sanding then as you say overlap it with fibreglass.
Looking good. Have a cheese sandwich!
Thanks! You too!
I think a dude named Madds would give it a thumbs up!!
I have so enjoyed your exploits over the years. You make me laugh and have more fun on my sailboat. ARTEMIS II. KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK.
Jolly good hooray ..becoming the expert now David. Mulling over is always a good idea..I take my hat off to you,,,It really is looking good well done.Till next time take care.
For a guy that never worked with fiberglass before,you did a fine job😎
Sorry to say, but I find a great deal of satisfaction sitting in my comfy chair by a fire with my feet up in slippers watching a timelapse video of someone working in a boatyard with fiberglass in a mask for 10 minutes... Well done!
I often wondered how fibre-glassing was done so really glad for this tutorial!! Looking forward to seeing Twiggy on her travels!!
It's definitely NOT a tutorial!! 🤣🤣
Your vlog resin-ates with me. I am now glassy-eyed.
Nice thing about Fiberglass is it's very forgiving. One can do almost anything they want. If a mistake is made, it's easily repaired. Nice job for a first time.
I kinda liking Hyperspeed David!
Wish it was that fast in reality!
The timelapse audio is great........... 😁😄😘 ...... thx for the DIY fun!
Looking good David.
At 5:26 there is something peeking it's head out from under your boat. Did anyone else see that? Keep up the good work, David.
plastic bag-- good eye
It looked like a plastic bag blowing in the wind to me.
it's a boatyard gremlin every boatyard has them. they move your tools when your not looking. 👍
I want the same meds you’re taking to make you sand that fast! 😊
Hi David. Applying resin and fibreglass sheets for the first time is not for the faint hearted. You mad3 an excellent effort and your methodical approach is being amply rewarded. Good luck with the rest of this interesting and enjoyable series. 👏👏👍😀
Thanks 👍
I must admit, I underestimated how much resin this would take and thought you had mixed way too much...
😮
Looks great, can't wait for the finished job!
👍👍👍
Yay more Twiggy just what we need on this cold nights ! 🥰
You should get the ship Happens crew to help , you all would make a fine crew 😂😂
Can I just say; I really appreciate the proper subtitles (and the extra commentary in them!)
My thoughts exactly, such funny humor.
I hate sorting the subtitles so I amuse myself by adding extra bits 🤣🤣
Sometimes I feel like we're right there doing everything along with you! You are doing a great job!
C.A.D. (Cardboard Aided Design) is your friend for creating templates to use for cutting out fiberglass / glassfiber sheet or mating
David, regarding your problem corner: Can you make a structural repair on the *inside*?
The repair will need to be strong, since you've cut right through the hull - scarf it over as large an area as possible, and then lay extra layers of glass over the whole area to build up the thickness and tie the repair into the rest of the hull. This would all be inside, and not visible, so would just need to be strong, rather than pretty. You would then have a largely cosmetic repair to do on the outside.
You may need to carefully cut away the seat/bunk(?) base to get access and reinstate it afterwards, but that wouldn't be structural or very visible, so should be fairly straightforward to do. The important thing is that the cut corner needs STRENGTH.
It's not accessible from the inside without destroying the bunk and the flotation tanks.
@@CruisingTheCut That is maybe something you will have to do - nice straight cuts to remove them, then re-glass once the internal structural repair has been done. Good luck, whatever. :)
Mission accomplished. Very well done despite a hornet rudely interrupting! Looking good1 Thank you.
Well done David! Looking forward to your next video!😊
Cardboard templates are a boat restorer's friend. And you can use some silica power to make thickened resin to fill those 'extra' ventilation slits you cut, then grind the entire curve and wrap the whole thing in one continuous sheet of glass mat. For such a small area, you can skip the expense of 'Peel Ply' and just sand it all smooth enough to paint it with two part epoxy paint...
Looking good, David!
After you clean up, please take a moment to review the Acetone Safety Datasheet.
Cheers
Not necessary. See www.atsdr.cdc.gov/ToxProfiles/tp21-c1-b.pdf
Wear safety gloves- it's deadly stuff.
The force of the outboard engine pushing and pulling has the potential to try and rip the transom off the boat at the area where you cut around the side. Certainly, a patch will not be sufficient you need to make a fully reinforced repair. Ideally strengthen the cut area on the inside with a lot of fiberglass or combination of wood and fiberglass.
When using fibreglass resin or any other mixed glues etc., it is always a good idea to have another place ready for application, to USE UP the leftovers, I agree with FishBump, keep that RH corner, open up your saw cut and give that a really good sticking. Sand the corner back with course sanding, then wrap the whole corner. Make it really strong, because that is where you might bump the boat, look at the scuff marks there already. Good job David you are doing well.
Lovely work David! And i learned something 😊
😀
I have never seen anyone work with fiberglass. I am really enjoying this series. Thank you David. Keep up the good work. It looks great! 👷♂
More to come!
Nice work David, looks great!
Well done ! I liked your description too...' In this "thrilling" episode'...🤣 That back end was such a mess; going to be actually good again.
Apologies David for my former maths teacher OCD: it’s square metres not metres squared. EG- 2 metres squared is 2x2=4; which is not 2 square metres, which would be 2x1=2. 😂The only time it’s the same is if you are talking about 1 sq m which of course is the same as 1 m squared (1x1)😂😂. Thus endeth the lesson
Good job fending off the hornet! I was stung on my hand years ago and it felt like my entire arm was on fire. Twiggy's rearend makeover is progressing nicely.
I'm so glad you weren't afraid to do this, well enough to not try! I knew it would turn out great!!! Can't wait to see her back out on the canals!!!
After you've finished your project, don't forget to install a bilge pump and connect it to a flotation switch that will automatically turn the pump on when Twiggy takes on water.
Yes there will be a bilge pump.
Well done, David! You’re making what started as a pretty unpleasant prospect into a bang up, almost (almost!) fun undertaking. Kudos to you.
I never would’ve guessed you’d turn into a “project guy”; I was wrong, well done sir. You’ll appreciate having a wider squeegee during layups, maybe 6 inches or so.
I don't know how thick those corner pieces are, but what we always do is grind them back down to under the side piece and then do everything with large pieces of fiberglass. You can add resin filler to the small crack you have cut whit chop fiber string (you can get it at any good polyester store). You mix the fiber through the resin until you have the thickness of a peanut butter-like substance and fil it whit that
and then the glass fiber cloth over that. build it up with layers and then grind it down to the correct thickness. then fill in any uneven areas. then apply the top coat over that and then the gel coat
I have almost zero interest in boats and diy however your enthusiasm, sense of humour and great presentation makes these videos unmissable for me. Well done and thank you.
Glad you like them! 😀
David, your vlogs are just a total delight.🙏🇦🇺👍
Well done, brilliant! As always, I love watching your projects. Take care God bless, Gloria 🐂
Thanks so much 😊
I do admire your tenacity, positivity and patience in renovating Twiggy, David. Even though I have no interest in DIY, I find watching the process oddly therapeutic. It’s calming watching our engaging host, fully absorbed in a challenging task, especially when the project is a labour of love and the restoration of a sweet old boat.
Hi David, just love your humour & DIY. Look forward to every video. Regards from New Zealand.
Thanks so much 😀
My favourite videos on youtube! Always good content mate! A note on fibreglass work... if resin has fully cured in the case of the holes you filled first, then always sand before adding the next layer (such as the filler).. the cured resin has a shiny surface and the next layer will not bond well unless you sand first...
I’m impressed. Well done!
Breaking Bad? That gave the game away - now we know how you can afford all this fibreglass !! Seriously David this is so interesting. Ive often wondered how fibreglassing works. Thanks - and we await the next episode with interest.
Another interesting video, David. Your mathematical skills amaze me. I would have needed a calculator to figure all that mixing stuff out! Lol. And the hornet was a nice touch to the video. I'm still chuckling about that. I had a mad bee after me the other day. Crazy creatures. Thanks for the video. Looking forward to the next one.
As a retired chief marine engineer, I think you are a very brave man!! You are doing a very good job for a DIY'er!! I'm following this closely, as I need to do some deck repairs on my old 1959 Freeman 22 !
I love those old Freemans!
Thank you for the continued enjoyable process David.
Doing a good job! Thanks, David
Hello David,
My recommendation is that you do a sanding of the whole side and making a single repair, you will find that is the safest way to ensure waterproofness.
Hope this helps.
Thank you for sharing your journey.
Excellent job! I have to say I’m always impressed by how you set about doing entirely new things, with no experience, and then look as if you’re a pro at them! I just love your commentary too. Very informative but full of dry wit - a definite winner!
It's looking great, David! Very satisfying to see.
As always a multitude of great “resins” to watch David’s videos as he “glasses” over the task at hand and gets right into the sticky, stringy details, wildlife be warned! Absolutely riveting stuff… oh wait, that may come later…. 😉 💖
What does Fishbump say about that corner? I might just grind out a V, leave it very rough on the sides and then fill it with chop glass pieces with heavy filler in the epoxy/vinylester. Leaving it rough gives the epoxy something to key into which increases the bond. Do two or three batches if it runs.
A shop vac on your random orbital would really help keep the dust down. What I always do is use a vacuum cleaner bag on the inside. Mostly I have to tape these to the in port with duct tape. The center pleated filters last forever. Without the bag they can clog up pretty quickly. The last one I bought for this cost me about $40 which is about 60 grams, or 2 square shillings...
And adapters for the vac hose to your tool? I mostly just bootleg duct tape and whatever. Sometimes finding the right adapters is a real pain.
Tape is the universal solution!! (well, that and a hammer 🤣)
Here’s my Colonial 2 cents. Cut some course glass mat. Whip up a bit of thickened epoxy, use a small brush to wet the insides of the cracks. Use a flat edged putty knife to work the glass pieces into the cracks, add a bit more thickened epoxy to just overfill the crack lines. Sand the repair back, and at the same time, sand back the entire corner to accept another layer of glass that wraps all the way around like you want it. Add the gel-coat, paint, and you’re done! GOOD JOB!
I agree that leaving the rounded corner piece in place will allow the new fiberglass to keep the original shape and give it structure that would not be there if you remove it. Didn't David say that there was nothing behind it? And if the original piece was removed....I would think that the shape would be hard to replicate. I think you have hit on the solution....it will be interesting to see what he decides.
Smashing‼️
MARINE EPOXY
I totally agree about the corner. Removing it will be very difficult to reconstruct any stability it now has
Great choices there.
Nice job you are doing really well good luck with the project
Your repairs not only look good but you appear to have bonded the layers together very well. You should be very proud of your new found skills.
Thanks 👍
Little known fact, all filmed in real time. Dave just moves that fast.
Love your videos. You have such a way with words. Thank you for being you!
Thank you so much!
Well done David! I had complete faith in your ability to fix Twiggy.. going nicely Indeed.. Cheers!
Very well done David.
I've been working with fiberglass for over fourty years and never had such a hard time figuring out the problems of how much harder to resin ratio
Congratulations on being naturally brilliant, it must be amazing being you.
Agree with others.
I’d g rind down any existing fiberglass on enough to thin it down ever so slightly and give it a “tooth” to adhere to. Then cover complete transom and wrap around both sides to cover all the scratches.
Then go inside and reinforce the cut area with a filet of epoxy followed by several layers of cloth and epoxy spanning the cut area.
I know this is not a large engine with high horsepower but transom strength is very important.
Then once the fiberglass is sanded somewhat smooth you will have to scuff the hull and add fairing compound before final paint.
This is just like drywall. You are covering the work to make it strong and fairing and sanding to make a smooth transition to the rest of the hull.
Talking to my co-worker who has done 5 transoms I learned he always removed the inner fiberglass to remove rotted wood.
I understand you had limited access on the inside.
In case I was unclear-do not remove any more of the hull fiberglass.
Just scuff and add layers.
I agree - there's a cut right through the hull - it isn't a 'crack' - so it needs building up on the inside to give the strength back, even if it means cutting away some of the inner 'furniture'. Trying to build it up on the outside will look awful.
Yes the access is negligible inside so not feasible without major destruction.
With chopped strand mat there is no continuous fibre, so on the corner you need to put woven or stitched cloth on both the inside and the outside (having removed the gelcoat, obviously) going from the transom to the hull shell, to repair the very structural part of the boat you accidentally sliced through. Ideally, you want fibres going horixontally and at plus and minus 45 degrees to tie it all back together
What about bonding in some stainless steel mesh ... 3mm square mesh, say?
A Kutzall Original Shaping Disc - Coarse used on an Angle Grider does amazing stock removal. We put a vacuum head on the grinder to aid in keeping the massive amounts of dust down. This works great for tapering edges, or removing old fillets.
cheese sandwich was the intelligent choice in my opinion.
Davids headliners are quick witted so is David...Its oming along David..Nice job nice vlog...😁😊
The vlog reminds me of a cooking show.
But you are handy enough to work with fiberglass.
Thank you for sharing. So fun to watch. Can't wait to see her back on the water.
A job Weldone David I wouldn’t worry about making mistakes it’s how us humans learn from our mistakes