What I've learned building an LS Swapped Datsun 280Z So Far

In this video I recap a 6 year project I have been working on building an Datsun 280Z with an LQ4/LS6 motor stuffed into it backed by a T56 and custom drivetrain. There are plenty of things I would have changed and newer products out now that didn't exist at the time that would have made my life so much easier.
Come check out where I am now and feel free to ask any of your own questions.

[@cameron7889]

I just checked out the channel. Great content. I would love an update for the 240z.

[@kennethwood713]

Nice car, lots of us admire your car. Must be nice

[@jaspermotorsport]

Sick car, we are doing the same thing. It's almost done

[@donchan1622]

Awesome car….!

[@LuciaPizarro-qt8rk]

nice engine

[@rsamano4434]

Badass build bro

[@gearheadgrind]

Thanks man!

[@LooseFab]

you should check out my build and lemme know what you think!

[@LooseFab]

just about to start this swap on my 280z, this is some great inspiration!

[@jaspermotorsport]

We are using a lot of the same stuff you are, we are using an F Body oil pan, same brakes as you and such, going to use 19" wheels to help with ground clearance for exhaust

[@gearheadgrind]

Cool, I will have tio check it out! 19" wheels are doable but large on these cars. For some reason I prefer the aesthetics of the 17's.

[@jaspermotorsport]

I totally agree the 19s are gonna be too big, probably will make it harder to steer as well. We just had some te37s laying around

[@antonioortiz6951]

👍🏼👍🏼

[@olp852]

Is the gas pedal just bolted to the firewall?

[@DatsunLSZ]

What’s hubs are you using? And what rear end?
Also are you running accessories like power steering and AC
Thanks in advance

[@gearheadgrind]

Arizona Z car hubs, no power steering or AC yet. I will use an electric power steering kit.

[@tameshiah5012]

What did you used for your Fusible links

[@LooseFab]

I did a video on my channel showing how to change fusible links to modern style fuses if youre interested

[@masonhansel34]

What seats are those specifically? I am looking at corbeau seats for my Z too

[@gearheadgrind]

Corbeau FX1 Pro in black vinyl

[@masonhansel34]

@@gearheadgrind Thanks for the reply, I knpw the clearance is a big issue in these cars when finding a replacement seat. How close are your seats to the window at the shoulder area where it gets wider for the harness pass throughs? I am going to try the RRX's and i think they are around the same measurements for the basic dimensions, so this helped me feel a bit more anxious about the fit up

[@gearheadgrind]

@@masonhansel34 Very close. Maybe 1/2" or so.

[@eleshiap6698]

What radiator is that?

[@gearheadgrind]

It is a Champion 3 row radiator. I don't have the part number though.

[@PhantasmPhoton]

I do not believe there was stock tint on the 280. Id fiberglass over that sunroof hole personally, glad I got a slick top, I think it looks better in profle.
I did a half cage that ties in the foot well to the original seatbelt box to the center of the trans tunnel behind the seats, to the rear shock towers. The bars from the floor to the hoop do make it trickier to get in and out but you get used to it. Im 6'0" and its ok. My 6'2" friend had no trouble but hes very lanky and flexable. I had to move the seats in about 2 inches to accommodate the bars. In the future I think Ill install door bars with a bend in them to make the middle lower and make them protrude into the door card. A few inches would solve all the ingress/egress issues. Being off center from the wheel is a little weird if you think about it too hard but I dont notice the second Im moving. I also lowered the seating position about an inch and a half which I think is more comfortable and something you should consider being so tall. I didnt link my rear towers to maintain maximum storage space back there. I feel like the stiffness of the hoop will increase the tower's stiffness a fair amount without it and I can always go to a bolt in later.
Its so cool you got a seam welded car. I started on that process during my restoration but the existing old seam sealer was too hard to remove and working around it was just causing a lot of black greasy smoke to be produced.
I feel like if you have bars in the car you should scrap the rear seats to save weight.

[@gearheadgrind]

Thanks! How did you try removing the seam sealer? An impact hammer with a chisel worked for me for the insulation and then it was a wire wheel on a grinder for the rest. Definitely a time consuming process for sure.
As for the rear seats, there is not much weight there as I'm not going to be using the stock mounting method and the seat itself isn't very heavy. I prefer the aesthetic on the 2+2 with the seat in over an empty space.

[@PhantasmPhoton]

@@gearheadgrind My issue was that it was in the seams in many cases, like Id have to pop the spot welds to get all the way in there and clean it out. Id get it as clean as I could on the surface but once I started welding up came the smoke so I gave up on that idea. I was worried the gas and smoke would get into the welding puddle, and it was just awful smoke. I removed a fair deal of the insulation by freezing it with dry ice and tapping it with a hammer. then used a paint scraper to pop it up once I could get under it.