I replaced my office hvac & one in a rental house. Although the attic units were very accessible, it was still easier to replace just the coils & fan elements inside the old sheet metal boxes than lug the whole new units upstairs for the office or thru a ceiling crawl hole for the house.
So far I’ve installed 6 of these units. Three on the last house and three on the new house. I always use 2 ton separate units this way if a compressor goes out I still have some what of air from the other units. Self taught, now I’m teaching neighbors. Never a problem.
I’m a retired master electrician but over the years I’ve replaced my own furnace in 3 different houses, done a few for friends and relatives, installed the entire system in a new house I had built, and installed a complete AC system and replaced the boiler in a 5000sq.ft. historic home I restored. The boiler was the biggest challenge, it was a beast. I dismantled that to remove it because it was so heavy, fortunately it came apart in ten 120# sections once I stripped the cabinet off it. That thing had a 10” diameter copper glue pipe connecting it to the chimney. I got over $400 for the scrap metal from that. I take my time , plan ahead, do actual heat loss/gain calcs to correctly size the unit (most “pros” don’t), and used manual D to properly size the ductwork. Mine all turned out better than most of the “pros”. Skilled trades are greatly under staffed these days so actual craftsmen are hard to find so this is a good opportunity to save some money and likely end up with a better result.
Nice job April, im an HVAC Contractor and after seeing this video i would hire you in a heart beat to install new ac systems. You did amazing, i am amazed on how well you did. Thank you for sharing!
I recommend running a 2”thick filter. It will facilitate less static pressure in the system which makes less resistance on the fan, more effective heat exchange. Wish they had this product when I did mine myself.
@@ron827 its actually the opposite because thicker filters have more surface area, static pressure is is a function of filter surface area and flow. At a given flow rate, a filter with more surface area will have less restriction and therefore decrease the static pressure.
Great video as always! Helpful life saving meter tip in the future. Prior to assuming a piece of equipment is no longer energized is to do a live-dead-live test. Confirm your meter is working properly by testing it on a known love circuit, followed by the de-energized circuit you are validating. Followed by known live.
When working in an inclosed area where this is fiberglass insulation, some kind of respirator would be a good idea because as you move around, fine fibreglass dust becomes airborne.
Kudos to you; you amaze me with every video! A couple things to mention; It gets hot in those attics in the summer time. Seriously, heat stroke in 15 minutes! Also, in the south its pretty common to have an attic AND a crawl space (like a basement but not as high, and with a dirt floor). Most crawl spaces were not built with ease of access in mind, though I built my house myself and built it with EOA at the top of my list, since I was in a service job for 25 years! Third, many 2-story homes have separate units up and down for more even cooling/heating. Ours does and I wouldn't have it any other way! Total control of each floor; it makes a huge difference!
I've been watching this channel diyhvacguy and have learned a lot from his videos as well. If you have a working unit, you can self recover the refrigerant into the condensor. Someone will have to recover it from that at a later date. Great information in this video. I always look forward to see what your doing next.
On some systems you can do this. As long as the charge is only the factory charge. If you had a long line set that required extra charge, you risk EPA sanctions for intentional refrigerant release. Other wise yeah you can just close your high side valve and pump down.
Also you have several kinks in your flex duct that is causing an airflow issue. You don’t want hard turns or kinks from the strapping of the flex duct.
Would love a followup video on how you chose the unit you did. I'm trying to get my a/c unit (both inside and out) replaced and this video gave me a huge confidence boost that I could do it myself. Thanks and love your videos ma'am.
Totally agree with the mastic suggestion. You might even want to add a strip of foil faced insulation to add a little more R-value and to lessen the chance of sweating during summer heat. You did a very good job overall
I run a heat pump and -22 is impressive. I know mine still run in below freezing, just runs a lot longer using more electric. Since you geek out on tech I’ll tell you I automated my propane fireplace and ceiling fan to come on with the heat pump from the thermostat only when it’s colder then 40 outside and it runs half the time now with double the off time in between. Plus the benefit of increasing humidity in the house. So far works great. But I may still install a small Mr cool for the garage this year.
@@grasshopperlawnmaintenance8738Well the basics is HomeKit with an 4K Apple TV. I already had a security system with an Aqara HUB on HomeKit/matter so I tied in a temp/humid sensor that is installed under my porch roof. With the gas fireplace and ceiling fan I use Meross HomeKit switches. I took one apart for the fireplace Meross smart switch and soldered a USB A cable to the voltage regulator on the board and installed to control the gas fireplace switch and installed it behind the gas fireplace switch. It’s powered with a small 5V DC USB apple charger. The other Meross switch is for the ceiling fan was installed normal on 120VAC like a normal switch replacing the dumb switch. My thermostat is the Honeywell Lyric T6 Pro WiFi also HomeKit enabled. Ok, so now we have fireplace control, ceiling fan control, outdoor temperature, and thermostat control and status. The rest of it is automation in HomeKit for when its colder then 40F outside and the heat comes one then turn on the fireplace (set at medium) and ceiling fan (set in reverse). Once the heat goes off turn off fireplace, and delay the turning the fan off for 60 seconds. Not sure yet if the const of gas for the fireplace offsets the cost of electric, but I do know the warmth of propane is a lot nicer, humidity stays at about 40% so no need for a humidifier or static shock in the air. The heater only runs half the usual run time when on, and stays off twice as long so less wear and tease on the system. You could put a timer on the fireplace switch running so it only runs for 3 or 5 minutes to give the system heat and thaw the pump. But I fond the humidity stayed better running it the whole time and shorter run time on the heat pump.
I had a heat pump system in Dayton back in the 70s, and it worked flawlessly. As I recall it had an electric heat augmenter when the temps got down below 18 degrees F. You're really going to enjoy how quiet your new system is compared to the old one. My old house had a conventional AC unit for the house and a mini split unit for the master bedroom. When I was standing in front of the mini split condenser the conventional condenser, 50 feet away, was louder than the mini.
This is awesome. I installed two home heat pumps to replace a single heat pump that did two floors in 2010. The price was the big reason but not only did I have to learn all the electrical, plumbing, and duct fabrication but I had to learn how to braze the copper to include doing a tripple evac before getting a tech to come check the charge. A few years later I added a mini to the living room so it could be kept slightly warmer when people were in there when it was freezing out. That didnt require the brazing but required using a flaring tool which is problematic for some. This fixes the refrigerant line problems.
Good choice and good job on the heat pump install. I installed a Mr Cool system in my house and am very happy with it. Don't forget to send in for your Mr.Cool hat! lol
1. bold DIY in this one... I had never considered doing air-handler and condenser myself but... now i'm like... well maybe! 2. laughed at the roof wall cut out. So many possibilities there... cut a much larger hole... beam it... big window... internal flooring for a "sky den" sort of thing. Or just have a door and add a roof deck for chairs and telescope :)
Let me start off by saying “I hate you”, as an HVAC Contractor, you are taking food from my children! But, I must say, from what I’ve seen on this video, You did a great job. I do recommend “sealing” the tapework with the white mastic(we generally call it “mud”) as the heat will “melt” the gummy stuff on the back of the tape. You did a better job than a lot of installs I’ve corrected by “professionals”. I congratulate you!
😢😢 I’m too old to do my own work had to pay for professional. Boy is there crazy prices 7,500 to over 14,000 bucks for the same thing. 😊😮😢 did I mention it was a one day job. No duct work. 😅😊
I wish you'd taken advantage of the opportunity to install a MERV 13, 4-inch thick, pleated air filter. It looked like your 1-inch filter was just a moth-stopper. The higher efficiency filter would be better for allergies.
On the old unit, when checking for power on the contactor make sure you are testing at the line side (bottom usually) you won't have any power at the load side unless it's pulled in or its a single pole contactor. I'd recommend getting a torque wrench for tightening those adapters, they have a high failure rate especially if not torqued properly. I think the smaller one on that unit should be 25ft/lb and the larger is 30ft/lb, but id verify that in the manual. When they do end up leaking just flare the lines, get rid of the adapters, and nitro test it before weighing the new refrigerant. I have 2 units that have leaked from those fittings.
I saved $5000 by doing it myself, probably a 3hr job I fabricated the wall mount too. Doing research took 8 hours of research sifting through inconsistent videos comparing to the manual for several afternoons. The 30 videos I went through turned out to be a huge time waste I should have just studied the manual, where I live most professional installers don't follow the book after learning it myself.
@@mattsnyder4754 I'm the kind of guy who'll try anything if I have the instructions and the right tools or can afford them, I replaced or timing chain and timing chain balancer in our car before we had to take a whole section of the motor apart and torque 30 bolts approximately I ran into a spot were I needed a special tensioning wrench and welded one from stuff I had, the job was successful. But I agree not just anyone off the street can do an install because there's way too much half baked into available, but I've seen local pro's look like they learnt how to install from TH-cam using patio blocks on grass as a base is not acceptable here and there do it and within a few years the outdoor unit looks like the leaning tower of Pisa, the guy across the street from me had a HVAC company install his and that had to service it 8 times it still sounds like a jet plane you can hear it way down the street. I seen a really good This Old House episode where they skipped the manual J and used rule of thumb and put in the wrong size and the guys utility bill was way higher than all the neighbors who switched, 3/4 of the companies here rely on rule of thumb. Anyways everything I mentioned is where I am it may be better where you are, when you can't trust people you learn to be a good researcher.
Great work April however, the purpose of the mini split system is to get 100 percent of the cool and heat . But by reusing your old duct work you lose 40-60 percent of heating and cooling in the duct work.
I had a couple problems with a mini split: one was the noise that the indoor unit makes in every room. The other was the condensate lines needed monthly maintenance and eventually got moldy. The entire system was horrible to clean out. The mold got everywhere including the interior fan blades.
Very good video I might recommend on the inside of your air handler to put a angled air dam so it doesn't create turbulence by hitting that flat panel it makes the are deflect into your ductwork just a piece of sheet metal put in there at an angle has a deflector
Do they make a ground source heat pump kit? Five feet below the surface of the ground is approximately 50 degrees all year long which is plenty of low-grade heat to be had without having to super stress the system in -20 degree. If one owns a decent size backhoe or excavator to dig trenches for the heat exchanger coils barriered in the yard the cost drops to a reasonable level...
Not a criticism of April or of this channel, but two observations about electrical norms in the US which I find fascinating. Instead of "disconnect box", which is four syllables, why not refer to that as an "isolator"? Also on the topic of the electrical side of things, I find it amazing that those wire nut things are permitted. They just look like such a bodge, and a fire waiting to happen. Whats wrong with a bit of terminal strip, or even a wago connector?
As far as my words of choice, I try to use words that someone who's not familiar with the type of project, would instantly recognize and remember. Definitely "Disconnect Box" would stick in their memory whereas Isolator may not. Thanks for watching.
Thanks so much for taking the time to reply. Just to clarify, my comment really was not intended as a criticism of you, more of an observation. Your countryman Adam Booth from the Abom79 channel uses the same term "disconnect box", so it makes sense that this phrase would be easier for viewers to understand. Here in the UK however, the word "isolator" is quite commonly used - for example if a bathroom is fitted with an extractor fan, there will usually be a labelled switch, which can be used to disconnect that device from the electrical system, just outside the bathroom (our 240v power and regulations do not allow switches other than pull-cords or sockets to be installed in bathrooms). Those are labelled with the words "Fan isolator", or sometimes simply "Isolator", so the word is in common usage over here. Similarly, I have noticed other TH-camrs describe an electrical outlet as a "receptacle" whereas that word is not in common usage here. We would call it an outlet, or most often a socket. As for "wire nuts", I have seen your fellow countryman, Adam Savage (both examples I chose were called Adam!) use those for various projects, but i have to say that they look risky to me. I for one think a screw terminal strip is safer and easier to service. Anyway, fascinating video. Thanks for making it!
Great job April. glad you had help and got the unit changed over. Looks really good and should be perfect for your location. Stay safe and keep up the fun projects around there. Star gazing she says, I want a sky lite she says, can't wait to see how that turns out. Have fun !! Fred.
Would love to use my ac for heat pump..... in Alberta it can get severely cold and they do not work. Natural gas burns hot every time it ignites and i can count on my family keeping warm and having hot water. Even my solar panels tell me that they don't want to work the winter.
No April you are not normal. You're very awesome one of a kind person and I love watching your projects come together. Great job April and thanks for sharing this project. You're appreciated🤙🏾💯
Not a fan of the return pan off I would have done a reduced angled as not to choke one side. The theory is that the motor will tilt slightly over time where the pan off is due to air turbulance. This instance its a slight difference and I dont see it being that much of an issue, but if yours is more then 5” panned off then think about making a transition piece with a filter rack
I didn't see one in the video, but being in Texas, I hope you also have a whole-house dehumidifier. AC units generally to a good job at dehumidification, but they have the side effect of making the space cooler...which is fine during a hot summer day, but sometimes it makes it too cold. Dedicated dehumidifiers that are controlled separately from your AC (i.e. a humidistat) are great at improving comfort during the time-of-day/time-of-year when it's a comfortable temperature outside, but it's humid. If you live anywhere in the US east of the Rockies, you should consider adding a whole-home dehumidifier to your HVAC system.
I would make that new roof access a nice insulated window with a motorized transom. Having the natural light not to mention a way to evacuate Texas summer heat will cool the house down.
In working in electrical stuff, make sure you have some electrical gloves rated at 20 KVAC. Sounds nuts, right? Depending on the type of A/C you're tearing apart it can be 120V all the way up to 3 KV. You want that extra safety buffer in there. Most home units are 2 phase 120VAC even though they say they're 240 Volt units, technically correct. The run capacitors for the unit can give you a lethal shock. Some units have an auto-discharge unit that when you open the panel or have a button to do it, however never assume that stuff works, assume that the capacitor has a charge on it and to be very careful when you ground in putting the prongs into the dirt 2.5 to 3 feet from where your feet or knees are.
There’s generally auxiliary heat for when it’s too cold (usually resistive coils). But the heat pump will still be able to provide the majority of your heat throughout the year.
Nice job. I just installed a MRCOOL Universal Residential 3-Ton 36000-BTU 17.5-Seer Upflow/Horizontal Central Air Conditioner from Lowes. It took me 1.5 days. It connected right to my Carier natural gas furnace. There are always some added costs to these systems but it was well worth it. Added costs such as I needed to run new electrical since this system runs on a 35amp circuit so 8 gauge wire was needed to the condenser and a new disconnect box replacing an older 30amp system. Needed to buy duct sheeting and tools to reconnect to the Plenum of the existing duct system, duct tape, duct calk, 1/2 inch sheet metal screws and PCV for the water discharge and 8 Gauge 1/4 inch spade connectors for the condenser. After having it all together I had to buy a new thermostat, smart thermostat now, "yea", since my existing one did not support cooling. It's up and running like a dream. I only had a little bit of difficulty connecting the lines outside on the condenser. I could have really used a second person to steady the line because those lines need to be perfectly aligned to start hand threading them together to make sure they were not cross threading. MRCOOL is highly reputable and it comes with a 10 year warranty DIY as long as you buy the pre-charged systems. Non pre-charged systems only warranty if you use a certified HVAC Pro. When I had my furnace replaced 5 years ago I was quoted an additional $9000 for AC. I put this system in including tax for around $3800 total. I believe I saved some cash here, lol.. Do some vigilant research on your current system because you can do this. It is so nice have those window units out of my windows which are well over a thousand dollars for the 4 that I had running. And these new condensers run so so so much quieter, more efficient than the older units. Peace....www.lowes.com/pd/MRCOOL-Universal-2-3-Ton-Up-to-20-SEER-Air-Conditioner-and-A-Coil-w-15ft-Quick-Connect-Line-Set/5013333377
@@mattneff1262 I don't have a heat pump. my MRCOOL is a cool only system. A-Coil, Lines and Compressor. The A-Coil attaches to your existing gas or electric furnace. Check the link to Lowes and you'll see the system. They do however make the same thing with a heat pump but this would require an entirely different compressor that what I have.
Thanks for sharing this note. This sounds like a great option for me. I have a Carrier split system with a failed condenser. Wire rub eventually grounded to my return refrig line and burned a hole. Complete loss of my R-22. So new condenser, new precharged lineset, new coil, all fitted up to existing air handler...Holy Cow! So I can really toss out all of these $10k+ quotes I ve been collecting?!
@@swcswc111 I'm glad this helped and it's why I posted it. We live in a world that has some really good honest HVAC technicians in it, and we have some really bad and crooked HVAC technicians. When ever someone tells you your Condenser is bad. Invest in a multimeter and test the capacitor yourself. Lots of video on it. The capacitor rip-off is real with bad HVAC people trying to sell you a whole new system when you really only need a $20 part. Sounds like they were quoting you on whole system replacements. Because brazing a new condenser, line, vacuum, nitrogen pressure test, and recharge is expensive but not $10,000+.
I could be wrong but i think you may have your condensate drain backwards. your primary hole is slightly lower than the secondary outlet hole. Your drain going into the emergency drain pan may fill up right away. your primary outlet should be going outside and secondary to your pan. once again i could be wrong just going by the video.
I would mostly definitely still pressure test to ensure those lines sealed tight. And these dont require the lines to be vacuumed below 500 microns? That seems wild. I would assume having the excess moisture could still cause non condensables and create issues in these systems. Maybe im wrong. Ive never been hands on with one of these Mr. Cools. Interested to see how it works now
For safety, you need to do four things. Turn off the thermostat so it's not calling for service or running the fan in your furnace and that is actually used even when not heating, it's used for cooling, too. You need to turn off the furnace fan at the furnace. You turn off the circuit breaker for the A/C unit in the breaker box but please stand to the side of the breaker box, the side closest to the switch you're turning off to help mitigate the rises of arc flash and associated events. Same thing when you turn it back on, same procedure. Pull out the the quick disconnect (you say it's code that you need it, that depends purely on the city and state you're in). I'll be honest, it should be code regardless for the quick disconnect to be a part of this unit.
Viper pan and drain treatment or nucalgon pan tablets have helped me prevent the condensate lines from clogging up. I use them around the beginning of the season. A cutoff float valve in the primary drain isn't a bad idea either and it's cheap. Highly recommend a surge protector.
Amazing, I learned a lot from your video! I'm not planning on installing a split system, however your video was well done and very informative. Thanks so much!
I installed a Mr. Cool mini split three years ago, and I have been pleased with it. The HVAC installers constantly tell me that "I hope you can get the parts when it eventually breaks."
I know......but a MrCool system is about 1/3 the price of a professionally installed system from Lennox, Mitsubishi, Fujitsu etc. The HVAC industry has priced itself out of many jobs.
These are 10 years systems if you get more than that its a bonus. When saying these most all mini split systems. Biggest problem is parts aren't accessible in our "normal" supply chain. Extra effort extra time and when you finally get the part its for a customer that wants Diy pricing so most of us just pass. I say good for ya'll doing your own stuff
@@binglebongle8601 Guess any in the business that I know of would be "us" And based off the number of calls a year I get requesting me to help a internet bought unit. After I decline you get the frustrated well who does..... um I'm not sure. I live in one of the most competitive markets in the country so shouldn't be hard at all. I install a average of 70 mini split systems per year I'm not interested in doing any I don't control what was purchased or where I can get warranty parts at. Such as had a part I needed and since it was a unit I install basically every week I just got it off a new one I keep in stock in my shop.
As someone that does HVAC the only thing I would do is make a better transition at 15:35. That little bit is some of your airflow. Otherwise I like the install.
I really enjoyed your video. Can you provide specifics as to the make/model of system you installed? How many tons of HVAC did you have and how many tons did you replace it with?
I'm not a fan of skipping the leak test and you are supposed to torque your flare connections. Also we lose our rebate if we DIY. I also don't like the excess line set coiled up, I think it causes issues.
I have been looking at putting one of their mini-splits in for my garage. I keep going back and forth on short electrical and long line set or vise versa.
My heat pump is worth its weight in gold. Just the money savings alone are significant. Better operation all around. You did a fantastic job thank you for sharing.👍♥️
One . That attic is the envy of any hvac tech . That fact that she can stand up and move around feeling is awesome . She would be hating life if this attic was tight .Who wears daisy dukes around insulation ?
I think his point was t he insulation not your views. I hate working on systems in attics because the fiberglass and sweat are a horrible combo. I wear long sleeves and jeans no matter how hot it is, because every call after that I don’t want to feel fiberglass in my skin all day.
The refrigerant is usually called Freon. The older form is R22 Freon which the US government has outlawed. The next itteration is R143. R12 was used in refrigerators and freesers and auto A/C systems. The large lineset is the vapor or gas line. The small lineset is the liquid line. You may lose a little of the air handling efficiency because you blanked off part of the case without a transition between the different sizes.
R22 is not outlawed. It is phased out of new manufacture and for new equipment. It is still being sold and used for service and repair. R143 is not a thing. You possibly mean 134a, which replaced r12 in cars, but 134a is also on the way out. 410a (puron) replaced r22 and that is also being phased out now.
I have watched your channel for years. I always enjoy the content. I think you are fearless!!! I always look forward to your new video wondering what you are going to do next! Timothy
I guess April should be the month when you were born ❤. Great job ❤🎉just think about a big solar system should be good to feed for your AC system. A perfect 👍 house 🏠
So how a AC works is it takes all the hot air in your house and dissipates it outside through the condenser. Whatever hot air is still left in the house the blower fan in the air handler or furnace however you want to say it blows the hot heat over the evaporator coil cooling the air. A heat pump works in reverse it takes the cold air out of the house and the cold air that’s left blows over the evaporator coil that’s now super heated warming the air and now the condenser is outputting cold air. It can do this with a reversing valve. Heat pumps don’t work in colder climates because the condenser is outputting cold air and if the outside is also really cold they can freeze up.
13:06 Torque specs, this isn't hand tight. 16:28 another option is the "Safe-T-Switch" that screws into the second drain. 17:22 Could use sealant too, the slang in the HAVC biz its called Pookie. Great video!
Remember when you add a coupling or fitting to PVC it creates and area where water and mildew can become trapped check your connections and make then as little as possible
YOU ARE AWESOME! An HVAC guy didn't even know universal /Central systems existed, then told me he'd charge me $4,500 to install, even though all our ducting was brand new and I have a single story house.
Sorry April, -22F does not cut it in North Dakota or northern Minnesota ( I grew up in ND and now live in northern Minnesota). The record low for both states is -60F, and -30F is expected.
currently waiting for my current unit to die and creating a small fund for this, would love to know the energy difference you have seen in the last month.
Carpenter, concrete, electrician, plumber. And now HVAC. You go girl. Mad skills as always. Cheers
Thanks! Glad you enjoy my channel. Thanks for watching.
You might know this, but she get a lot of help along the way like a guided tour. But good for her.
I replaced my office hvac & one in a rental house. Although the attic units were very accessible, it was still easier to replace just the coils & fan elements inside the old sheet metal boxes than lug the whole new units upstairs for the office or thru a ceiling crawl hole for the house.
So far I’ve installed 6 of these units. Three on the last house and three on the new house. I always use 2 ton separate units this way if a compressor goes out I still have some what of air from the other units. Self taught, now I’m teaching neighbors. Never a problem.
Awesome! That's great to hear. Thanks for Sharing and for watching.
I’m a retired master electrician but over the years I’ve replaced my own furnace in 3 different houses, done a few for friends and relatives, installed the entire system in a new house I had built, and installed a complete AC system and replaced the boiler in a 5000sq.ft. historic home I restored. The boiler was the biggest challenge, it was a beast. I dismantled that to remove it because it was so heavy, fortunately it came apart in ten 120# sections once I stripped the cabinet off it. That thing had a 10” diameter copper glue pipe connecting it to the chimney. I got over $400 for the scrap metal from that. I take my time , plan ahead, do actual heat loss/gain calcs to correctly size the unit (most “pros” don’t), and used manual D to properly size the ductwork. Mine all turned out better than most of the “pros”. Skilled trades are greatly under staffed these days so actual craftsmen are hard to find so this is a good opportunity to save some money and likely end up with a better result.
I am an HVAC guy and i have much respect for you for tackling this job yourself.
Thanks! And thanks for watching.
I don't think she did it all herself.
I like how you don’t let your fears prevent you from tackling projects April! Congrats on a successful installation! 👏👍😃
Thanks! Yes, although nervous it's best to jump on it. Thanks for watching.
Nice job April, im an HVAC Contractor and after seeing this video i would hire you in a heart beat to install new ac systems. You did amazing, i am amazed on how well you did. Thank you for sharing!
Thanks! I definitely do my research before tackling a project. Thanks for watching.
I recommend running a 2”thick filter. It will facilitate less static pressure in the system which makes less resistance on the fan, more effective heat exchange. Wish they had this product when I did mine myself.
Wouldn't a thicker filter create more resistance, to air movement, thus "increase" static pressure?
@@ron827 its actually the opposite because thicker filters have more surface area, static pressure is is a function of filter surface area and flow. At a given flow rate, a filter with more surface area will have less restriction and therefore decrease the static pressure.
Great video as always!
Helpful life saving meter tip in the future. Prior to assuming a piece of equipment is no longer energized is to do a live-dead-live test. Confirm your meter is working properly by testing it on a known love circuit, followed by the de-energized circuit you are validating. Followed by known live.
When working in an inclosed area where this is fiberglass insulation, some kind of respirator would be a good idea because as you move around, fine fibreglass dust becomes airborne.
Kudos to you; you amaze me with every video! A couple things to mention; It gets hot in those attics in the summer time. Seriously, heat stroke in 15 minutes! Also, in the south its pretty common to have an attic AND a crawl space (like a basement but not as high, and with a dirt floor). Most crawl spaces were not built with ease of access in mind, though I built my house myself and built it with EOA at the top of my list, since I was in a service job for 25 years! Third, many 2-story homes have separate units up and down for more even cooling/heating. Ours does and I wouldn't have it any other way! Total control of each floor; it makes a huge difference!
I've been watching this channel diyhvacguy and have learned a lot from his videos as well. If you have a working unit, you can self recover the refrigerant into the condensor. Someone will have to recover it from that at a later date. Great information in this video. I always look forward to see what your doing next.
On some systems you can do this. As long as the charge is only the factory charge. If you had a long line set that required extra charge, you risk EPA sanctions for intentional refrigerant release. Other wise yeah you can just close your high side valve and pump down.
Also you have several kinks in your flex duct that is causing an airflow issue. You don’t want hard turns or kinks from the strapping of the flex duct.
Would love a followup video on how you chose the unit you did. I'm trying to get my a/c unit (both inside and out) replaced and this video gave me a huge confidence boost that I could do it myself. Thanks and love your videos ma'am.
You should use duct mastic in addition to the foil tape to seal the ductwork.
Totally agree with the mastic suggestion. You might even want to add a strip of foil faced insulation to add a little more R-value and to lessen the chance of sweating during summer heat. You did a very good job overall
I run a heat pump and -22 is impressive. I know mine still run in below freezing, just runs a lot longer using more electric. Since you geek out on tech I’ll tell you I automated my propane fireplace and ceiling fan to come on with the heat pump from the thermostat only when it’s colder then 40 outside and it runs half the time now with double the off time in between. Plus the benefit of increasing humidity in the house. So far works great. But I may still install a small Mr cool for the garage this year.
This is very interesting. Would love to hear more detail.
@@grasshopperlawnmaintenance8738Well the basics is HomeKit with an 4K Apple TV. I already had a security system with an Aqara HUB on HomeKit/matter so I tied in a temp/humid sensor that is installed under my porch roof. With the gas fireplace and ceiling fan I use Meross HomeKit switches. I took one apart for the fireplace Meross smart switch and soldered a USB A cable to the voltage regulator on the board and installed to control the gas fireplace switch and installed it behind the gas fireplace switch. It’s powered with a small 5V DC USB apple charger. The other Meross switch is for the ceiling fan was installed normal on 120VAC like a normal switch replacing the dumb switch.
My thermostat is the Honeywell Lyric T6 Pro WiFi also HomeKit enabled.
Ok, so now we have fireplace control, ceiling fan control, outdoor temperature, and thermostat control and status. The rest of it is automation in HomeKit for when its colder then 40F outside and the heat comes one then turn on the fireplace (set at medium) and ceiling fan (set in reverse). Once the heat goes off turn off fireplace, and delay the turning the fan off for 60 seconds.
Not sure yet if the const of gas for the fireplace offsets the cost of electric, but I do know the warmth of propane is a lot nicer, humidity stays at about 40% so no need for a humidifier or static shock in the air. The heater only runs half the usual run time when on, and stays off twice as long so less wear and tease on the system.
You could put a timer on the fireplace switch running so it only runs for 3 or 5 minutes to give the system heat and thaw the pump. But I fond the humidity stayed better running it the whole time and shorter run time on the heat pump.
If you want to save money on the lineset covers I found using a gutter pipe is just and nice looking and saves a ton and easier to work with.
I had a heat pump system in Dayton back in the 70s, and it worked flawlessly. As I recall it had an electric heat augmenter when the temps got down below 18 degrees F.
You're really going to enjoy how quiet your new system is compared to the old one. My old house had a conventional AC unit for the house and a mini split unit for the master bedroom. When I was standing in front of the mini split condenser the conventional condenser, 50 feet away, was louder than the mini.
Yes, I'm glad I went with this new system. Thanks for Sharing and for watching.
This is awesome. I installed two home heat pumps to replace a single heat pump that did two floors in 2010. The price was the big reason but not only did I have to learn all the electrical, plumbing, and duct fabrication but I had to learn how to braze the copper to include doing a tripple evac before getting a tech to come check the charge. A few years later I added a mini to the living room so it could be kept slightly warmer when people were in there when it was freezing out. That didnt require the brazing but required using a flaring tool which is problematic for some. This fixes the refrigerant line problems.
Ok is there is there anything that April hasn't done? The AC isn't only cool thing in attic. 😎 😊👍👍
My goodness April another outstanding diy project you have done have a great week be safe
Thank you! You too!
Good choice and good job on the heat pump install. I installed a Mr Cool system in my house and am very happy with it. Don't forget to send in for your Mr.Cool hat! lol
1. bold DIY in this one... I had never considered doing air-handler and condenser myself but... now i'm like... well maybe!
2. laughed at the roof wall cut out. So many possibilities there... cut a much larger hole... beam it... big window... internal flooring for a "sky den" sort of thing. Or just have a door and add a roof deck for chairs and telescope :)
Let me start off by saying “I hate you”, as an HVAC Contractor, you are taking food from my children! But, I must say, from what I’ve seen on this video, You did a great job. I do recommend “sealing” the tapework with the white mastic(we generally call it “mud”) as the heat will “melt” the gummy stuff on the back of the tape. You did a better job than a lot of installs I’ve corrected by “professionals”. I congratulate you!
Ha! Thanks! I'm glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching.
Up the Fridgys 💪💪💪
Your business is safe. My big takeaway from this great video is: There's no way in (you know where) that I'm ever doing this as a DIY project!
😢😢 I’m too old to do my own work had to pay for professional. Boy is there crazy prices 7,500 to over 14,000 bucks for the same thing. 😊😮😢 did I mention it was a one day job. No duct work. 😅😊
@@fyrwerx4485 👍🏻😊
I wish you'd taken advantage of the opportunity to install a MERV 13, 4-inch thick, pleated air filter. It looked like your 1-inch filter was just a moth-stopper. The higher efficiency filter would be better for allergies.
Nice work on accomplishing what can be a daunting task! Glad you shared this one with us. Thanks! Keep on building!
Thanks!
On the old unit, when checking for power on the contactor make sure you are testing at the line side (bottom usually) you won't have any power at the load side unless it's pulled in or its a single pole contactor. I'd recommend getting a torque wrench for tightening those adapters, they have a high failure rate especially if not torqued properly. I think the smaller one on that unit should be 25ft/lb and the larger is 30ft/lb, but id verify that in the manual. When they do end up leaking just flare the lines, get rid of the adapters, and nitro test it before weighing the new refrigerant. I have 2 units that have leaked from those fittings.
I saved $5000 by doing it myself, probably a 3hr job I fabricated the wall mount too. Doing research took 8 hours of research sifting through inconsistent videos comparing to the manual for several afternoons. The 30 videos I went through turned out to be a huge time waste I should have just studied the manual, where I live most professional installers don't follow the book after learning it myself.
If 8 hours of research was enough to “learn the book yourself,” there would be a lot more HVAC techs in the world.
Is that 5k in savings including the cost of your labor. 11hrs of work on this project would be a high labor cost so saving 5k is truly impressive
@@mattsnyder4754 I'm the kind of guy who'll try anything if I have the instructions and the right tools or can afford them, I replaced or timing chain and timing chain balancer in our car before we had to take a whole section of the motor apart and torque 30 bolts approximately I ran into a spot were I needed a special tensioning wrench and welded one from stuff I had, the job was successful. But I agree not just anyone off the street can do an install because there's way too much half baked into available, but I've seen local pro's look like they learnt how to install from TH-cam using patio blocks on grass as a base is not acceptable here and there do it and within a few years the outdoor unit looks like the leaning tower of Pisa, the guy across the street from me had a HVAC company install his and that had to service it 8 times it still sounds like a jet plane you can hear it way down the street. I seen a really good This Old House episode where they skipped the manual J and used rule of thumb and put in the wrong size and the guys utility bill was way higher than all the neighbors who switched, 3/4 of the companies here rely on rule of thumb. Anyways everything I mentioned is where I am it may be better where you are, when you can't trust people you learn to be a good researcher.
@@mattsnyder4754 It's only a 1 year course here.
I only wish my old system was as new as your old system. Mine is 23 years old and an R-22 system. The refrigerant for it is CRAZY $$$$$$$...
Great work April however, the purpose of the mini split system is to get 100 percent of the cool and heat . But by reusing your old duct work you lose 40-60 percent of heating and cooling in the duct work.
I had a couple problems with a mini split: one was the noise that the indoor unit makes in every room. The other was the condensate lines needed monthly maintenance and eventually got moldy. The entire system was horrible to clean out. The mold got everywhere including the interior fan blades.
Very good video I might recommend on the inside of your air handler to put a angled air dam so it doesn't create turbulence by hitting that flat panel it makes the are deflect into your ductwork just a piece of sheet metal put in there at an angle has a deflector
5) A vertical condenser gives you a shelf to set things on should you be working in that area.
Do they make a ground source heat pump kit? Five feet below the surface of the ground is approximately 50 degrees all year long which is plenty of low-grade heat to be had without having to super stress the system in -20 degree. If one owns a decent size backhoe or excavator to dig trenches for the heat exchanger coils barriered in the yard the cost drops to a reasonable level...
As I’ve often thought over the years, I wish you were my neighbor ❤️
Not a criticism of April or of this channel, but two observations about electrical norms in the US which I find fascinating.
Instead of "disconnect box", which is four syllables, why not refer to that as an "isolator"?
Also on the topic of the electrical side of things, I find it amazing that those wire nut things are permitted. They just look like such a bodge, and a fire waiting to happen. Whats wrong with a bit of terminal strip, or even a wago connector?
As far as my words of choice, I try to use words that someone who's not familiar with the type of project, would instantly recognize and remember. Definitely "Disconnect Box" would stick in their memory whereas Isolator may not. Thanks for watching.
Thanks so much for taking the time to reply.
Just to clarify, my comment really was not intended as a criticism of you, more of an observation.
Your countryman Adam Booth from the Abom79 channel uses the same term "disconnect box", so it makes sense that this phrase would be easier for viewers to understand.
Here in the UK however, the word "isolator" is quite commonly used - for example if a bathroom is fitted with an extractor fan, there will usually be a labelled switch, which can be used to disconnect that device from the electrical system, just outside the bathroom (our 240v power and regulations do not allow switches other than pull-cords or sockets to be installed in bathrooms). Those are labelled with the words "Fan isolator", or sometimes simply "Isolator", so the word is in common usage over here.
Similarly, I have noticed other TH-camrs describe an electrical outlet as a "receptacle" whereas that word is not in common usage here. We would call it an outlet, or most often a socket.
As for "wire nuts", I have seen your fellow countryman, Adam Savage (both examples I chose were called Adam!) use those for various projects, but i have to say that they look risky to me. I for one think a screw terminal strip is safer and easier to service.
Anyway, fascinating video. Thanks for making it!
Nice installation. Well done. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it.
Great job April. glad you had help and got the unit changed over. Looks really good and should be perfect for your location. Stay safe and keep up the fun projects around there. Star gazing she says, I want a sky lite she says, can't wait to see how that turns out. Have fun !! Fred.
Thanks! Yes, stay tuned.
Would love to use my ac for heat pump..... in Alberta it can get severely cold and they do not work. Natural gas burns hot every time it ignites and i can count on my family keeping warm and having hot water. Even my solar panels tell me that they don't want to work the winter.
April! so glad you made this video! I have been considering doing this myself for a couple years now.
Great! Glad you found it useful. Thanks for watching.
You are "Always" Amazing and Inspiring April!
Aw thanks! And thanks for watching.
So good that your husband and friends were there to finish this project, it's a daunting task by yourself.
That is not my husband and friends, they are my Employees. I do as much as I can by myself but physically at times I need others. Thanks for watching.
No April you are not normal. You're very awesome one of a kind person and I love watching your projects come together. Great job April and thanks for sharing this project. You're appreciated🤙🏾💯
Thank you so much!
"let's cut a hole in the wall!"
The old blower wheel from the air handler makes a great whole house attic fan.
I've looked at the MRCOOL systems and wondered how DIY they really are. Now I know! Thanks for another great video.
Glad you like them!
Not a fan of the return pan off I would have done a reduced angled as not to choke one side. The theory is that the motor will tilt slightly over time where the pan off is due to air turbulance. This instance its a slight difference and I dont see it being that much of an issue, but if yours is more then 5” panned off then think about making a transition piece with a filter rack
As a HVAC/R technician I must say you did a good job.
Thanks! I appreciate that. Thanks for watching.
I didn't see one in the video, but being in Texas, I hope you also have a whole-house dehumidifier. AC units generally to a good job at dehumidification, but they have the side effect of making the space cooler...which is fine during a hot summer day, but sometimes it makes it too cold. Dedicated dehumidifiers that are controlled separately from your AC (i.e. a humidistat) are great at improving comfort during the time-of-day/time-of-year when it's a comfortable temperature outside, but it's humid. If you live anywhere in the US east of the Rockies, you should consider adding a whole-home dehumidifier to your HVAC system.
I would make that new roof access a nice insulated window with a motorized transom. Having the natural light not to mention a way to evacuate Texas summer heat will cool the house down.
In working in electrical stuff, make sure you have some electrical gloves rated at 20 KVAC. Sounds nuts, right? Depending on the type of A/C you're tearing apart it can be 120V all the way up to 3 KV. You want that extra safety buffer in there. Most home units are 2 phase 120VAC even though they say they're 240 Volt units, technically correct. The run capacitors for the unit can give you a lethal shock. Some units have an auto-discharge unit that when you open the panel or have a button to do it, however never assume that stuff works, assume that the capacitor has a charge on it and to be very careful when you ground in putting the prongs into the dirt 2.5 to 3 feet from where your feet or knees are.
It gets a whole crap ton colder up north than -22F! ND, MN, WI especially
There’s generally auxiliary heat for when it’s too cold (usually resistive coils). But the heat pump will still be able to provide the majority of your heat throughout the year.
Nice job. I just installed a MRCOOL Universal Residential 3-Ton 36000-BTU 17.5-Seer Upflow/Horizontal Central Air Conditioner from Lowes. It took me 1.5 days. It connected right to my Carier natural gas furnace. There are always some added costs to these systems but it was well worth it. Added costs such as I needed to run new electrical since this system runs on a 35amp circuit so 8 gauge wire was needed to the condenser and a new disconnect box replacing an older 30amp system. Needed to buy duct sheeting and tools to reconnect to the Plenum of the existing duct system, duct tape, duct calk, 1/2 inch sheet metal screws and PCV for the water discharge and 8 Gauge 1/4 inch spade connectors for the condenser. After having it all together I had to buy a new thermostat, smart thermostat now, "yea", since my existing one did not support cooling. It's up and running like a dream. I only had a little bit of difficulty connecting the lines outside on the condenser. I could have really used a second person to steady the line because those lines need to be perfectly aligned to start hand threading them together to make sure they were not cross threading. MRCOOL is highly reputable and it comes with a 10 year warranty DIY as long as you buy the pre-charged systems. Non pre-charged systems only warranty if you use a certified HVAC Pro. When I had my furnace replaced 5 years ago I was quoted an additional $9000 for AC. I put this system in including tax for around $3800 total. I believe I saved some cash here, lol.. Do some vigilant research on your current system because you can do this. It is so nice have those window units out of my windows which are well over a thousand dollars for the 4 that I had running. And these new condensers run so so so much quieter, more efficient than the older units. Peace....www.lowes.com/pd/MRCOOL-Universal-2-3-Ton-Up-to-20-SEER-Air-Conditioner-and-A-Coil-w-15ft-Quick-Connect-Line-Set/5013333377
So you can run your furnace and the heat pump?
@@mattneff1262 I don't have a heat pump. my MRCOOL is a cool only system. A-Coil, Lines and Compressor. The A-Coil attaches to your existing gas or electric furnace. Check the link to Lowes and you'll see the system. They do however make the same thing with a heat pump but this would require an entirely different compressor that what I have.
Thanks for sharing this note. This sounds like a great option for me. I have a Carrier split system with a failed condenser. Wire rub eventually grounded to my return refrig line and burned a hole. Complete loss of my R-22. So new condenser, new precharged lineset, new coil, all fitted up to existing air handler...Holy Cow! So I can really toss out all of these $10k+ quotes I ve been collecting?!
@@swcswc111 I'm glad this helped and it's why I posted it. We live in a world that has some really good honest HVAC technicians in it, and we have some really bad and crooked HVAC technicians. When ever someone tells you your Condenser is bad. Invest in a multimeter and test the capacitor yourself. Lots of video on it. The capacitor rip-off is real with bad HVAC people trying to sell you a whole new system when you really only need a $20 part. Sounds like they were quoting you on whole system replacements. Because brazing a new condenser, line, vacuum, nitrogen pressure test, and recharge is expensive but not $10,000+.
I could be wrong but i think you may have your condensate drain backwards. your primary hole is slightly lower than the secondary outlet hole. Your drain going into the emergency drain pan may fill up right away. your primary outlet should be going outside and secondary to your pan. once again i could be wrong just going by the video.
I would mostly definitely still pressure test to ensure those lines sealed tight. And these dont require the lines to be vacuumed below 500 microns? That seems wild. I would assume having the excess moisture could still cause non condensables and create issues in these systems. Maybe im wrong. Ive never been hands on with one of these Mr. Cools. Interested to see how it works now
I bought this unit and in the process of installing. I really wish someone would do a detailed video on how to do the ductwork
Your a/c guy should have recommended a high level cutout switch in the condensate drain line.
I have been waiting for someone to show this unit! I am getting on soon!!! awesome job.
Awesome! Thank you. I'm glad you found it useful. Thanks for watching.
Great work I'm not sure I would try it! You done a great job 👍
Thank you!
For safety, you need to do four things.
Turn off the thermostat so it's not calling for service or running the fan in your furnace and that is actually used even when not heating, it's used for cooling, too.
You need to turn off the furnace fan at the furnace.
You turn off the circuit breaker for the A/C unit in the breaker box but please stand to the side of the breaker box, the side closest to the switch you're turning off to help mitigate the rises of arc flash and associated events. Same thing when you turn it back on, same procedure.
Pull out the the quick disconnect (you say it's code that you need it, that depends purely on the city and state you're in).
I'll be honest, it should be code regardless for the quick disconnect to be a part of this unit.
Viper pan and drain treatment or nucalgon pan tablets have helped me prevent the condensate lines from clogging up. I use them around the beginning of the season.
A cutoff float valve in the primary drain isn't a bad idea either and it's cheap. Highly recommend a surge protector.
@@gwizz911 sure, let’s put something corrosive to evaporator coils in there.
Amazing, I learned a lot from your video! I'm not planning on installing a split system, however your video was well done and very informative. Thanks so much!
Thanks! Glad you found it helpful. Thanks for watching.
I installed a Mr. Cool mini split three years ago, and I have been pleased with it.
The HVAC installers constantly tell me that "I hope you can get the parts when it eventually breaks."
I know......but a MrCool system is about 1/3 the price of a professionally installed system from Lennox, Mitsubishi, Fujitsu etc. The HVAC industry has priced itself out of many jobs.
These are 10 years systems if you get more than that its a bonus. When saying these most all mini split systems. Biggest problem is parts aren't accessible in our "normal" supply chain. Extra effort extra time and when you finally get the part its for a customer that wants Diy pricing so most of us just pass. I say good for ya'll doing your own stuff
@@jonsaircond8520 Who is "us" in this situation?
@@binglebongle8601 Guess any in the business that I know of would be "us"
And based off the number of calls a year I get requesting me to help a internet bought unit. After I decline you get the frustrated well who does..... um I'm not sure. I live in one of the most competitive markets in the country so shouldn't be hard at all. I install a average of 70 mini split systems per year I'm not interested in doing any I don't control what was purchased or where I can get warranty parts at. Such as had a part I needed and since it was a unit I install basically every week I just got it off a new one I keep in stock in my shop.
you can also try to add turbin ventilator in the roof, this free energy only use wind to make the turbin works
Also check your condensate line for goop.
Your star gazing door is a FUN idea, and so COOL April! 😎😃😉
Thanks! I think so too!
As someone that does HVAC the only thing I would do is make a better transition at 15:35. That little bit is some of your airflow. Otherwise I like the install.
Thanks!
I really enjoyed your video. Can you provide specifics as to the make/model of system you installed? How many tons of HVAC did you have and how many tons did you replace it with?
Awesome job, as usual! Any chance you could provide the link or product name to that specific setup?
I'm not a fan of skipping the leak test and you are supposed to torque your flare connections. Also we lose our rebate if we DIY. I also don't like the excess line set coiled up, I think it causes issues.
Great work April! Thanks for always sharing with us!💖👍😎JP
Thanks for always watching. I appreciate the support.
@@AprilWilkerson Your very welcome April! Have a wonderful week ahead 😎JP
I have been looking at putting one of their mini-splits in for my garage. I keep going back and forth on short electrical and long line set or vise versa.
My heat pump is worth its weight in gold. Just the money savings alone are significant. Better operation all around. You did a fantastic job thank you for sharing.👍♥️
Glad you enjoyed it! And thanks for sharing and for watching.
Where there's a will there's a way! You knocked this one out of the park!
Thanks!
What do you do to plug the hole from the porch to the attic (where the line set comes out)? Do you use the same Barrier foam?
April, what's the seer rating on the unit you installed? I really enjoyed this video!
One . That attic is the envy of any hvac tech . That fact that she can stand up and move around feeling is awesome . She would be hating life if this attic was tight .Who wears daisy dukes around insulation ?
As hot as it gets in Texas and up in the attic, yes I'm wearing shorts. I don't wear them for extra Views, I wear them because Texas is an oven.
I think his point was t he insulation not your views. I hate working on systems in attics because the fiberglass and sweat are a horrible combo. I wear long sleeves and jeans no matter how hot it is, because every call after that I don’t want to feel fiberglass in my skin all day.
There is also a switch that drops in the top of the drain line that if it backs up in the line it will shut the air handler off.
The refrigerant is usually called Freon. The older form is R22 Freon which the US government has outlawed. The next itteration is R143. R12 was used in refrigerators and freesers and auto A/C systems. The large lineset is the vapor or gas line. The small lineset is the liquid line. You may lose a little of the air handling efficiency because you blanked off part of the case without a transition between the different sizes.
R22 is not outlawed. It is phased out of new manufacture and for new equipment. It is still being sold and used for service and repair. R143 is not a thing. You possibly mean 134a, which replaced r12 in cars, but 134a is also on the way out. 410a (puron) replaced r22 and that is also being phased out now.
Freon is a brand name.
I have watched your channel for years. I always enjoy the content. I think you are fearless!!! I always look forward to your new video wondering what you are going to do next! Timothy
Awesome! Thank you! I'm glad you enjoy my channel. Thanks for watching and for staying along for the ride.
April, did you need to reconfigure the system to run horizontally?
Hands down your best how to video yet impressed
Thanks! Glad you found it useful. Thanks for watching.
I guess April should be the month when you were born ❤. Great job ❤🎉just think about a big solar system should be good to feed for your AC system. A perfect 👍 house 🏠
Actually, I wasn't born in April but it was my Mom's favorite name. :) Thanks for watching.
So how a AC works is it takes all the hot air in your house and dissipates it outside through the condenser. Whatever hot air is still left in the house the blower fan in the air handler or furnace however you want to say it blows the hot heat over the evaporator coil cooling the air. A heat pump works in reverse it takes the cold air out of the house and the cold air that’s left blows over the evaporator coil that’s now super heated warming the air and now the condenser is outputting cold air. It can do this with a reversing valve. Heat pumps don’t work in colder climates because the condenser is outputting cold air and if the outside is also really cold they can freeze up.
13:06 Torque specs, this isn't hand tight. 16:28 another option is the "Safe-T-Switch" that screws into the second drain. 17:22 Could use sealant too, the slang in the HAVC biz its called Pookie. Great video!
Very helpful!! Thank you very much.❤
Glad it was helpful!
Nicely done April! 😃👍🏼👊🏼
Thank you!!
Something about the condenser high and low lines should be kept as short as possible on the outside unit, there's efficiency reasons for this.
Added bonus, no issue with lighting after lol
This is inspiring… I can wait to install one of these units…
You make great reviews. Thank you April.
Glad you like them! Thanks for watching.
We have to get you going with a whole home power back up system. Please reach out!! Love your show
Remember when you add a coupling or fitting to PVC it creates and area where water and mildew can become trapped check your connections and make then as little as possible
Damn girl.. Great install you made it look perfect.. You saved about ten grand if you lived where I do.. Fantastic attention to detail...
Thanks! I love passing along information. Thanks for watching.
I sincerely love your work an inspiration to say the least... Keep on keeping on
Thank you so much!
YOU ARE AWESOME! An HVAC guy didn't even know universal /Central systems existed, then told me he'd charge me $4,500 to install, even though all our ducting was brand new and I have a single story house.
Sorry April, -22F does not cut it in North Dakota or northern Minnesota ( I grew up in ND and now live in northern Minnesota). The record low for both states is -60F, and -30F is expected.
Maybe stuff some steel wool into that crack before the foam, they say mice won’t chew the steel wool.
currently waiting for my current unit to die and creating a small fund for this, would love to know the energy difference you have seen in the last month.
You should of connect the drain pan line to the outside so if water does get in pan it can drain out just in case that flow switch goes bad
April: This task IS DIYable...
Also April: LET'S CUT A HOLE IN THE WALL!!!
:)
Hmmm...Access panel to roof to star gaze...DO IT!