It all depends on the discharge rate, the higher that is the better they are for delivering extra juice when needed and normally these lithium batteries have a much lower rate than the ones specifically for car audio
It would be interesting to see a test of the fluted and the solar together against the Headway, simulating alternator, stock battery, plus the solar as a second battery, vs alternator and Headway bank.
Thanks for the test. Would have liked to see an AGM thrown in there for comparison. I'd really like to see you run a test on a 60AH, or greater, Antigravity battery...
Can you use them??? Yes, but they are not going to be any better than the regular car battery most people have under their hoods. Car audio lithium is all about discharge rates, the higher discharge rate the better they are for car audio. These solar batteries have a very slow discharge rate so they are awful at delivering the instantaneous power you need when hitting huge bass notes
I use a Power Queen 50ah battery in my Can Am X3 as a secondary battery for all my accesories including a Rocksford Fosgate Stage 6 sound system. The battery does great with no problems and i blast my music for hours in Glamis.
this can also be a good house battery in your car truck or van , some people spend a lot of time in their vehicle and they do want to run the fans or the radio but do not want to have the engine on. so this battery with a relay and some few loads directed to this battery should be a good setup . there are many works vans where they require mains voltage and use an inverter , this can be smaller and more cost effective bulk storage for the such vans. lifepo4 can put some serious load on alternator and will fry any factory alternator so the regulator needs to be modified with a thermal switch at minimum that will turn the alternator off if the temperature goes too high.
@@JasonWW2000 simplest form of that would be to de energise the regulator with a thermal overload switch that will turn the alternator off when it gets too hot and the alternator will turn back on when the temperature falls back. more complicated commercial ones would reduce the current to maintain safe operating temperature and not just turn the alternator off . just use a 115c nc thermal switch and wire it up in series to the alternator exciation wire. when the case of the alternator goes above 115c the alternator will stop producing power and when it cools down the switch will reset and it will start producing power again. two switches should be mounted. one over the rectifier and one over the coil , & if you can get a smaller pully for the alternator to make it spin faster then it would be even better. alternator overheats when the engine is at idle because the rpm of the alternator fan is dependent upon engine rpm , so a smaller pully will increase the overall alternator rpm and make it produce more amps + run cooler.
"Solar Batteries" are great for one reason. They have a BMS. Meaning? Even when you drain your car dead? The Battery is still going to be fine due to the BMS protecting the cells. Meaning? Long life for you and a good value for those that don't use Battery Tenders etc. So its more of a set and forget type deal. Unlike with Flooded and AGM's that we often have to replace every year or less in daily driven rigs. They also don't deteriorate anywhere near as fast as AGM or Flooded cells in daily use. * I have made my own Lithium pack and its been going strong for about 4 years. That's SOMETHING! And these are USED CELLS! Since we are geeking out here? The best of all worlds would be a 16v Battery internally with a BMS & 16 volt to 14.4 regulator built in to handle voltage drop. Kind of like the old Jacob's electronics box that used to keep up your voltage in your race car. The best of both worlds moreover still us to use SuperCaps for Burst in the same manner has they have Zero issues with charge and discharge, but that would only be for something like competition systems. The power would be expensive to keep clean at that point and the regulator would be horrifically expensive. We are talking about something akin to what you would use in a Prius for drive electronics. Overall? Seem to me that using the high voltage on a Hybrid from the battery pack onboard seems to be the way to go. It already has a Battery, the biggest "Alternator" out there. And it just makes sense.
Good stuff! For DIY with high current capability _and_ BMS protection, you can use a solenoid disconnect as your 'safety'. The BMS can trip the solenoid on over or undervoltage, but no limits on current by the BMS. (Of course, you need to specify the cells so they're good for the currents you want. Headways, some of the bigger 60AH/280/320AH cells are good for 100's of amps discharge without breaking a sweat.) I just got a big bank of 280AH CATL cells to run the house during power outages. (Often, here in the redwoods...:) And I think Jag has some 12V 60AH packs for $150ish, no BMS, and they're good for a few 100 amps discharge. The other trick with those mini 12V 100AH batteries is that they can run in parallel for more current total. They're smallish and light so that can work pretty sweet. Just be careful to run quality equal length cables from each battery to your common plus and minus points so the batteries/BMSes will share the load accurately. (Follow HiFiVega's cable videos!) Active balancers are great for DIY setups, especially with used/repurposed cells. My three current li-ion banks running the house are using recycled scooter batteries. one bank has a regular BMS and an active balancer. It was the earliest built, most heavily stressed bank and it's staying super nicely balanced. Bank 2's active balancer failed (not it's fault) and I didn't replace it. It's currently off-line due to too much variation. Bank 3 is newer, (featured in my channel's 'explod-y" video, actually), and larger. After swapping the damaged pack, it's running ok, but without an active balancer. Yet. I have to manually balance it every few months. (Or maybe I should install another active balancer. Soon.) The 20KWH CATL LiPo pack will have active and standard BMS/balancer. Still working on it. 4 of those cells (about $550) would make a 50lb, 280AH pack about the size of that big car batt in the video that would be able to push 840A continuous without a peep. That's the cell rating. Definitely need a solenoid type BMS. (Or just use a small BMS to monitor voltages and such and alarm if it's getting close. That'd be cheaper and no losses thru the mosfets. (OK, I shut up now. As HiFiVega knows, I'm an ancient electronic tech who's been messing with batteries (From tiny to room-sized) for over 50 years. It's an addiction. And a budget HiFi nut. Just can't do the physical stuff for car audio anymore. It bites...:) Stu Have a great one!
So I shouldn’t use this battery for my car audio system? I was gonna pair it with a 370 amp alternator… I’m trying to find a cheaper way to have power because I have a 8000 watt bass amp and it was just absolutely draining the two group 31 Agm batteries I had on it…. After doing research the bms was my main concern but with a high output alt I should be able to still get the power I want as long as the vehicle is running right??
I have 4 of these same batteries connected in parallel for a battery cart and I successfully used them to jump start my neighbor's car that wouldn't even try to start with my Audew lithium jump box.
Not a great idea to get a solar battery on car audio but if you have one around or can get them real cheap then you could. The BMS robs some power (PCB, MOSFET R(ds), monitoring circuitry) and the worst part is, depending on the BMS, just a hint of under or over voltage and you get locked out! I would be curious if you can get hold of real cheap LiFePo4 32650s/32700s like we could (~$2 a piece) and build a bank with it and a balancer, would it be better than flooded? Then we have LTO...
If the charging voltages are the same yes you can run them together. The agm batteries will typically rest lower and bring your lithium battery down to its level unless you’re running an isolator
Incredible video. Thank you for taking the time to do all the work and editing needed. My question is about charging off the standard power coming from an alternator. If you have a high output alternator (250amp) then charging the lifepo4 will be a challenge. How can you hook up this battery in your vehicle for stereo of you have it on your regular electrical charging system?
Yes it can handle up to 100 amps incoming current, but I’m curious as to how it would handle 250 amps incoming? And would it be beneficial to have a 500 farrad capacitor bank in line with the system? And or another battery either agm or lead acid battery in line (under the hood) to keep things smooth? Does this make sense?
In the defense of The Power Queen, it's only rated for 100amps continuous discharge. You should've went with one of their larger batteries that are rated for how much that amp can pull.
Hey I am new to anything other than your basic lead/acid battery with a cap in the back I've been gone for over 10 years and I'm trying to get back into car audio and I'm watching all these videos saying lithium is the new way to go for car audio first I should say my car is not compatible with a HO alternator (2019 Toyota Camry LE) so all I can do is upgrade my battery system and wiring for best possible performance from this particular car and I am having a really hard time understanding what I need to make it work I know I need some type of BMS that doesn't restrict discharge and I literally just learned that part from this video so thank you for that but I don't understand what type of BMS I need for say an LTO bank ying long style to charge without destroying my alternator as well as burst discharge can you please tell me what kind I need for a car audio setup I've been trying to research it
Im kinda disappointed in the 64ah headway bank...been fed 100A from that power supply..I really did expect the least amount of volt drop...but wasnt the case...even if Headways are able to do a 5c continuous discharge...that 64ah bank should easily do 300A with such noticable volt drop especially while having 100A charge on it...at 1700w....its not even a 200A load.. Im disappointed.. If it stayed in the mid 13s on all Your testing...then I would have said well done
I am considering the power queen option for a boat sound system … I don’t necessarily need a ton of amperage all at once but a lot of capacity for playing without a motor running also the sound system won’t be nearly as large as the car audio systems these days … maybe 2-3k watts total at most and not playing at full volume… from what I can tell this may be a good option for me feel free to correct me if I’m wrong
@@HifiVega if I had multiple in parallel would that split the amperage demand between them? For example if I had 3 100ah in parallel each with 100a bms would that give me an effective 300a of discharge rate or am I an idiot
DIY battery for sure. I’d lean headway because it’s the most popular there is the most info out there about diy builds with them and they’re still very cheap
lol " Solar Batteries" they are not solar batteries, they are Lifepo4 cells and or batteries. That may have a main use for Solar energy storage, but that's not their main purpose. Also the BMS on a lifepo4 battery doe snot artificially limit power, it has a cutoff, If it goes beyond the rating of the BMS it will just shutdown, not "limit" how much power comes out, they are not that sophisticated. I've been working with Lifepo4 cells for over 6 years now, and its scary to watch people that don't completely understand how to use these cells try to explain to others that don't know. I recomend that everyone read the spec sheets and read up on how a BMS Works (Battery Management System) that's connected to the cells for charging and discharging.
Everyone of your complaints is related to terminology. You say cutoff where I say limit the end result is if you push this battery past the internal bms rating it will in fact reduce the the amperage output not shut the battery down on this model in particular. That being said I have worked in the battery business since 2002 as my day job.
Having it inline with a stock lead acid up front would drain the lithium because of the voltage difference between them, the lithium would essentially continuously charge the lead acid? I would think that after a week or 2 the lithium would be down to 10 or 20% state of charge? These questions is why I haven't taken the plunge yet, although I don't *need* the front battery
My problem with the headway cells are they don't provide as much Amp Hours as The solar batteries So you can't use them for long without something charging them where as with the solar batteries the Amp Hours are there ... So in that case wouldn't it be better to remove the BMS on the solar batteries ❓ Because building a 100ah headway bank would take alot more cells than the mini solar battery..
So here’s my question. I have 198 amp hours of limitless lithium in my car audio setup. could solar panels be used to keep my charged when my truck is off????? if it can be done, just wondering what exactly what I need. My resting voltage is 13.2v all the time. Running voltage 14.5 +- . Thanks for any help.
If you've got a 198 amp hour of limitless lithium you must have a hell of a system! I'm a bass head as well and I don't think it would be beneficial. Maybe if you had a windmill instead of solar panels 💪
Hey bro I have a 5000RMS 12 inch blackdeath sub woofer and smart 3k teramp waiting to get wired up what battery would you reccommend someone said 225ah commercial been quoted £250 bit low on cash dude??
@@HifiVega I have a 48 ah headway bank with two of those supercaps and wish I would have tested my voltage before adding the caps but I put it all in at the same time. I know they help quite a bit.
With my 220ah time usb lithium battery w 150a bms if it's not enough do you think I can replace the BMS and then it will be comprable to a headway? One more question I have a 50 farad ion capacitor by Rockville do you think that has the ability to make up for the discharge rate being only 150? I have two AGM's run parallel on the other side of the isolator
nice one for this test ....and i was wondering there is a community that uses car audio set up using server psu modding it sort of 12.4 to 13.2 something like that this setup usually done at home hmmm just wondering if that also can do heavy setups but i guess gonna need a ton of power for that. any ways thanks for the effort.
Great job explaining. Guys don't understand the cells have a C rating that limits discharge amperage necessitating a BMS to make sure you don't damage them.
Awesome comparison. That lead acid had higher burst but would degrade and fail fairly quickly out it was subjected to that consistently. That's the beauty of the BMS as you said. It keeps the battery from discharging more than rated.
the cells inside are rated at 3c , and there are in 4p4s config , 25ah cells so this can do 400amps without the bms according to china , could be an interesting test. as long as the battery does not heat up more than 50c and the voltage does not drop below the minimum voltage ,
@@KuntalGhosh Would be interesting to see. Some ratings out of China are accurate and some are definitely not. Interesting that these are 25ah cells. Most of the newer batteries like this I've seen are 100ah prismatics in 4S1P. Will Prowse does a great job of tearing them down and testing.
@@jstrahn Lead acid is best used for bursts (hence the cranking amps). Continuous current draw cause heat and boiling and they degrade fast at higher temps (say 150 degrees) compared to LiFe and LTO, that's why car batteries don't last much in hot areas. When you go lithium it changes you! Though BMS's are good and all...some suck and some might be decent enough to allow pulse discharge amps and duration settings
This is a very good test, however.. To make the test totally fair, you would have to eliminate one variable - the voltage. These 3 batteries had slightly different starting voltage, so I believe that influenced the clipping point. I think you should have discharged the lithiums to be at exactly the same voltage as the flooded, and then comare them. Even if lithium is 50% charged it is still charged and for these short test the SOC won't impact the results. More of this please👍
Great testing bro ❤😎
Thanks!
Nice vid bro...always like those battery videos
A Power Queen with a 200amp BMS would be a great test.
Or two batteries in parallel. Best of everything I guess.
Great video , thanks for sharing
It all depends on the discharge rate, the higher that is the better they are for delivering extra juice when needed and normally these lithium batteries have a much lower rate than the ones specifically for car audio
It would be interesting to see a test of the fluted and the solar together against the Headway, simulating alternator, stock battery, plus the solar as a second battery, vs alternator and Headway bank.
Thanks for the test.
Would have liked to see an AGM thrown in there for comparison.
I'd really like to see you run a test on a 60AH, or greater, Antigravity battery...
I put the agm I had in my truck when the battery went dead or I would have, but I can always do that in the future
@@HifiVega yes, we'd like that.
Can use anything you want as long as your entire system is speced and matched at least electrically
Can you use them??? Yes, but they are not going to be any better than the regular car battery most people have under their hoods. Car audio lithium is all about discharge rates, the higher discharge rate the better they are for car audio. These solar batteries have a very slow discharge rate so they are awful at delivering the instantaneous power you need when hitting huge bass notes
So what lifep04 discharge rate is good?
Well explained 👏
Thanks
I use a Power Queen 50ah battery in my Can Am X3 as a secondary battery for all my accesories including a Rocksford Fosgate Stage 6 sound system. The battery does great with no problems and i blast my music for hours in Glamis.
Is your 50ah power queen ran in parallel with your starter battery under your hood?
@@BoobeeMyles i run a battery isolator. so when the car is running both batteries are running parallel and the alternator is charging both of them.
ok, so without an isolator, would the lifep04 be fine in parallel with the battery under the hood when car is on & off?
this can also be a good house battery in your car truck or van , some people spend a lot of time in their vehicle and they do want to run the fans or the radio but do not want to have the engine on. so this battery with a relay and some few loads directed to this battery should be a good setup . there are many works vans where they require mains voltage and use an inverter , this can be smaller and more cost effective bulk storage for the such vans. lifepo4 can put some serious load on alternator and will fry any factory alternator so the regulator needs to be modified with a thermal switch at minimum that will turn the alternator off if the temperature goes too high.
A thermal circuit to protect the alternator seems like a treat idea. Do you have any more info on building one?
@@JasonWW2000 simplest form of that would be to de energise the regulator with a thermal overload switch that will turn the alternator off when it gets too hot and the alternator will turn back on when the temperature falls back. more complicated commercial ones would reduce the current to maintain safe operating temperature and not just turn the alternator off .
just use a 115c nc thermal switch and wire it up in series to the alternator exciation wire. when the case of the alternator goes above 115c the alternator will stop producing power and when it cools down the switch will reset and it will start producing power again. two switches should be mounted. one over the rectifier and one over the coil , & if you can get a smaller pully for the alternator to make it spin faster then it would be even better. alternator overheats when the engine is at idle because the rpm of the alternator fan is dependent upon engine rpm , so a smaller pully will increase the overall alternator rpm and make it produce more amps + run cooler.
"Solar Batteries" are great for one reason. They have a BMS. Meaning? Even when you drain your car dead?
The Battery is still going to be fine due to the BMS protecting the cells. Meaning? Long life for you and a good value for those that don't use Battery Tenders etc. So its more of a set and forget type deal.
Unlike with Flooded and AGM's that we often have to replace every year or less in daily driven rigs.
They also don't deteriorate anywhere near as fast as AGM or Flooded cells in daily use. *
I have made my own Lithium pack and its been going strong for about 4 years. That's SOMETHING!
And these are USED CELLS!
Since we are geeking out here? The best of all worlds would be a 16v Battery internally with a BMS & 16 volt to 14.4 regulator built in to handle voltage drop. Kind of like the old Jacob's electronics box that used to keep up your voltage in your race car.
The best of both worlds moreover still us to use SuperCaps for Burst in the same manner has they have Zero issues with charge and discharge, but that would only be for something like competition systems. The power would be expensive to keep clean at that point and the regulator would be horrifically expensive.
We are talking about something akin to what you would use in a Prius for drive electronics.
Overall? Seem to me that using the high voltage on a Hybrid from the battery pack onboard seems to be the way to go.
It already has a Battery, the biggest "Alternator" out there.
And it just makes sense.
TLDR yes, they’re awesome, if you run stock voltage.
Power Queen does say it needs to be stood up and not layed on it's side.
Good stuff! For DIY with high current capability _and_ BMS protection, you can use a solenoid disconnect as your 'safety'. The BMS can trip the solenoid on over or undervoltage, but no limits on current by the BMS. (Of course, you need to specify the cells so they're good for the currents you want. Headways, some of the bigger 60AH/280/320AH cells are good for 100's of amps discharge without breaking a sweat.) I just got a big bank of 280AH CATL cells to run the house during power outages. (Often, here in the redwoods...:) And I think Jag has some 12V 60AH packs for $150ish, no BMS, and they're good for a few 100 amps discharge. The other trick with those mini 12V 100AH batteries is that they can run in parallel for more current total. They're smallish and light so that can work pretty sweet. Just be careful to run quality equal length cables from each battery to your common plus and minus points so the batteries/BMSes will share the load accurately. (Follow HiFiVega's cable videos!) Active balancers are great for DIY setups, especially with used/repurposed cells. My three current li-ion banks running the house are using recycled scooter batteries. one bank has a regular BMS and an active balancer. It was the earliest built, most heavily stressed bank and it's staying super nicely balanced. Bank 2's active balancer failed (not it's fault) and I didn't replace it. It's currently off-line due to too much variation. Bank 3 is newer, (featured in my channel's 'explod-y" video, actually), and larger. After swapping the damaged pack, it's running ok, but without an active balancer. Yet. I have to manually balance it every few months. (Or maybe I should install another active balancer. Soon.) The 20KWH CATL LiPo pack will have active and standard BMS/balancer. Still working on it. 4 of those cells (about $550) would make a 50lb, 280AH pack about the size of that big car batt in the video that would be able to push 840A continuous without a peep. That's the cell rating. Definitely need a solenoid type BMS. (Or just use a small BMS to monitor voltages and such and alarm if it's getting close. That'd be cheaper and no losses thru the mosfets.
(OK, I shut up now. As HiFiVega knows, I'm an ancient electronic tech who's been messing with batteries (From tiny to room-sized) for over 50 years. It's an addiction. And a budget HiFi nut. Just can't do the physical stuff for car audio anymore. It bites...:) Stu Have a great one!
Stu always coming thru with the knowledge!
I did not read all this but I’ll say you’re correct!
So I shouldn’t use this battery for my car audio system? I was gonna pair it with a 370 amp alternator… I’m trying to find a cheaper way to have power because I have a 8000 watt bass amp and it was just absolutely draining the two group 31 Agm batteries I had on it…. After doing research the bms was my main concern but with a high output alt I should be able to still get the power I want as long as the vehicle is running right??
I have 4 of these same batteries connected in parallel for a battery cart and I successfully used them to jump start my neighbor's car that wouldn't even try to start with my Audew lithium jump box.
You need to pair lifepo4 with a supercap or LTO bank.
Been a while since I seen you man and good to see a new video
I’m taking it easy this summer lol. I’ll be back on my consistent weekly schedule in the fall 😉
What lithium battery can be used under the hood of a vehicle the will work along with headway cell?
Not a great idea to get a solar battery on car audio but if you have one around or can get them real cheap then you could. The BMS robs some power (PCB, MOSFET R(ds), monitoring circuitry) and the worst part is, depending on the BMS, just a hint of under or over voltage and you get locked out! I would be curious if you can get hold of real cheap LiFePo4 32650s/32700s like we could (~$2 a piece) and build a bank with it and a balancer, would it be better than flooded? Then we have LTO...
Sweet thanks that was my question, great info man... I'm only running a 3k system i think my agm battery will work for me, just for sum extra juice..
Thanks for watching!
Ok but can u mix the lithium with a … AGM or a lead acid battery to run a sound system
If the charging voltages are the same yes you can run them together. The agm batteries will typically rest lower and bring your lithium battery down to its level unless you’re running an isolator
Price point wand watts out put isn’t that bad you really won’t know the difference with a sub
Does Power Queen say that 13.5v is 100% SOC? Typically it would be 14.6v. So I'm a bit confused.
13.5v is 100% soc at resting voltage not while being charged
Incredible video. Thank you for taking the time to do all the work and editing needed. My question is about charging off the standard power coming from an alternator. If you have a high output alternator (250amp) then charging the lifepo4 will be a challenge. How can you hook up this battery in your vehicle for stereo of you have it on your regular electrical charging system?
So far every one of these solar type batteries I’ve tested the bms has regulated the incoming charge current
Yes it can handle up to 100 amps incoming current, but I’m curious as to how it would handle 250 amps incoming? And would it be beneficial to have a 500 farrad capacitor bank in line with the system? And or another battery either agm or lead acid battery in line (under the hood) to keep things smooth? Does this make sense?
@@alexjarman9658the battery won't ask for 250A. The battery will only allow 50A or 100A incoming power. I think it would be fine.
Nice job
Id suspect the solar lithium on a 10k system thats sucking 700 to 800 amp draw that it will alow its maximum aloud amperage output
See I was wondering that if you had multiple hooked up cuz it can take the power that way
In the defense of The Power Queen, it's only rated for 100amps continuous discharge. You should've went with one of their larger batteries that are rated for how much that amp can pull.
Like a 200 ah ??
Hifi the battery whisperer
👂🏼
Will a 250amp alternator be to much for the power queen batteries?
No I have a 320amp, but the alt will only put out what it needs to, instead of max amperage at once!
What about UPS batteries?
Hey I am new to anything other than your basic lead/acid battery with a cap in the back I've been gone for over 10 years and I'm trying to get back into car audio and I'm watching all these videos saying lithium is the new way to go for car audio first I should say my car is not compatible with a HO alternator (2019 Toyota Camry LE) so all I can do is upgrade my battery system and wiring for best possible performance from this particular car and I am having a really hard time understanding what I need to make it work I know I need some type of BMS that doesn't restrict discharge and I literally just learned that part from this video so thank you for that but I don't understand what type of BMS I need for say an LTO bank ying long style to charge without destroying my alternator as well as burst discharge can you please tell me what kind I need for a car audio setup I've been trying to research it
I would’ve liked to of seen the solar battery as a secondary on the ever start AGM.
I put that one in my truck when the battery died a few months back 😬
@@HifiVega I have the NXT-2KF with the everstart and this is just a hair more for a lot more amp hours
I can run a lifepo4 in parallel with AGM ?
What kind of amp hour lithium would I need to power a Taramps 3000?
300ah with proper charging voltage
You don't need that much he's crazy saying 300ah lmao
I'd say 50ah will easily power your 3kwrms system, 15ah of lithium for every 1kwrms
Im kinda disappointed in the 64ah headway bank...been fed 100A from that power supply..I really did expect the least amount of volt drop...but wasnt the case...even if Headways are able to do a 5c continuous discharge...that 64ah bank should easily do 300A with such noticable volt drop especially while having 100A charge on it...at 1700w....its not even a 200A load..
Im disappointed..
If it stayed in the mid 13s on all Your testing...then I would have said well done
Under load I’ve found headway usually keeps low 13’s high 12’s unlike lto and other types that hold the voltage more steady
funny i was just looking at an electrovolt lithium on ebay wondering the same thing.
It’s hard to say which of these battery vendors are solid or not without testing them all, but this particular one is not bad
I am considering the power queen option for a boat sound system … I don’t necessarily need a ton of amperage all at once but a lot of capacity for playing without a motor running also the sound system won’t be nearly as large as the car audio systems these days … maybe 2-3k watts total at most and not playing at full volume… from what I can tell this may be a good option for me feel free to correct me if I’m wrong
I think this would work out for you as long as you’re not full tilt the whole time
@@HifiVega if I had multiple in parallel would that split the amperage demand between them? For example if I had 3 100ah in parallel each with 100a bms would that give me an effective 300a of discharge rate or am I an idiot
@zayres29 theoretically it should increase ah in parallel, increase voltage in series
Good video
Thanks
Great video!
Does that mean the solar batteries may work but it will take more of them? With an appropriate ah ratio to current demand🤔
Thanks! Yes they will work like agm with less weight and longer life with the exception of not working well in the cold
@@HifiVega South Louisiana here, cold here is hot to yall.. 😆
Id like to have the best battery for the cheapest price for daily use. But will run aroun3k to 4k watts
DIY battery for sure. I’d lean headway because it’s the most popular there is the most info out there about diy builds with them and they’re still very cheap
lol " Solar Batteries" they are not solar batteries, they are Lifepo4 cells and or batteries. That may have a main use for Solar energy storage, but that's not their main purpose. Also the BMS on a lifepo4 battery doe snot artificially limit power, it has a cutoff, If it goes beyond the rating of the BMS it will just shutdown, not "limit" how much power comes out, they are not that sophisticated. I've been working with Lifepo4 cells for over 6 years now, and its scary to watch people that don't completely understand how to use these cells try to explain to others that don't know. I recomend that everyone read the spec sheets and read up on how a BMS Works (Battery Management System) that's connected to the cells for charging and discharging.
Everyone of your complaints is related to terminology. You say cutoff where I say limit the end result is if you push this battery past the internal bms rating it will in fact reduce the the amperage output not shut the battery down on this model in particular. That being said I have worked in the battery business since 2002 as my day job.
What about charging? New alternator regulator? DC-DC converter? What does all that cost?
This battery will work with stock alts and in line with regular batteries
Having it inline with a stock lead acid up front would drain the lithium because of the voltage difference between them, the lithium would essentially continuously charge the lead acid? I would think that after a week or 2 the lithium would be down to 10 or 20% state of charge? These questions is why I haven't taken the plunge yet, although I don't *need* the front battery
@@minus3dbintheteens60 you could install a battery isolator to resolve the parasitic drain issue if you chose.
@@HifiVegahave you installed inline and run stock? Every manufacturer I've talked to warns alt damage b/c of high draw as soc drops.
So can I keep my flooded battery and add one of those p04 solar in the back of car?
Do it, I've been using my lead acid and my 36ah lithium with a 250amp alt powering my taramps 3k for almost 2 years now. It's worked like a charm.
How come the amperage wasn’t measuring?
My sparked conductor is on the fritz 😢
Could I remove the BMS and just install a balancer since almost all car audio lithium battery banks don't use a balancer anyways?
At that point I think you’d be served well by just buying used headway cells and building your own
My problem with the headway cells are they don't provide as much Amp Hours as The solar batteries
So you can't use them for long without something charging them where as with the solar batteries the Amp Hours are there ...
So in that case wouldn't it be better to remove the BMS on the solar batteries ❓
Because building a 100ah headway bank would take alot more cells than the mini solar battery..
Come on give me good news I'm just turning it on just bought a 200 ah timeusb give me good news please
I played this on 2x speed and it was still boringly slow. Cant imagine normal
Is there a way to do away with the bms and use it?
I’m sure there is, but I wouldn’t know unless I tore into the battery and I dunno how safe that would be
@@HifiVega lol understandable
How dare you call this a nerdy video while not wearing a lab coat 😂
You right! Edwin would be ashamed
@@HifiVega Tighten up bruh 😂
They are not rated for high amp draw or charge
Which is why I compared them to an agm
👍👍👍...
🙈 *Promo sm*
So here’s my question.
I have 198 amp hours of limitless lithium in my car audio setup. could solar panels be used to keep my charged when my truck is off????? if it can be done, just wondering what exactly what I need. My resting voltage is 13.2v all the time. Running voltage 14.5 +- . Thanks for any help.
If you've got a 198 amp hour of limitless lithium you must have a hell of a system! I'm a bass head as well and I don't think it would be beneficial. Maybe if you had a windmill instead of solar panels 💪
What if someone buys it and replaces the bms and change it out with balance board
Excellent comparo!
Thanks!
I need to know if I need anything to run a AGM and Lithium in parallel?
I'M looking for a battery that can hold the charge when i bump my suB with car off!!!!!!! no lookin max out put power
Hey bro I have a 5000RMS 12 inch blackdeath sub woofer and smart 3k teramp waiting to get wired up what battery would you reccommend someone said 225ah commercial been quoted £250 bit low on cash dude??
How about for diy bluetooth speaker? Can i use this lifepo4 100ah for a 2.1 set up using a 300 watts 4channel amp
As a stand alone battery
My homie!
I would love for you to test the benefits of pairing an Ioxis ultracap with headway
I have both that might be something I do in the future
@@HifiVega I have a 48 ah headway bank with two of those supercaps and wish I would have tested my voltage before adding the caps but I put it all in at the same time. I know they help quite a bit.
With my 220ah time usb lithium battery w 150a bms if it's not enough do you think I can replace the BMS and then it will be comprable to a headway? One more question I have a 50 farad ion capacitor by Rockville do you think that has the ability to make up for the discharge rate being only 150? I have two AGM's run parallel on the other side of the isolator
Love you please don't change DIg me and everyone are dropping him sorry
Thank mate needed this video. What is your power supply you're using please?
Thanks for watching! I use 2 of these
www.amazon.com/dp/B01ER3LH5W/ref=cm_sw_r_as_gl_api_gl_i_9NTW0EEDZ33MPH2HD115?linkCode=ml2&tag=robertvega-20
LiFePo4 aren't great in colder climates. They don't like freezing temp of 20f or colder without a way of warming them before charging.
For sure
Can you believe I have all three in my setup in the work truck. My AGM battery weighs like 75 lb I think
Hybrid power lol
As long as the lead acid is not in parallel with the other types, you should not worry about the lead acid discharging the other two.
nice one for this test ....and i was wondering there is a community that uses car audio set up using server psu modding it sort of 12.4 to 13.2 something like that this setup usually done at home hmmm just wondering if that also can do heavy setups but i guess gonna need a ton of power for that. any ways thanks for the effort.
I used old server PSU’s to test several smaller amps they work well as long as you stay within their rated wattage
@@HifiVega yeah i was also asking the guys bout that anyways thanks for the reply.
Great job explaining. Guys don't understand the cells have a C rating that limits discharge amperage necessitating a BMS to make sure you don't damage them.
Thanks! I wanted to show people some of the differences between high discharge and these solar style back up power batteries.
Awesome comparison. That lead acid had higher burst but would degrade and fail fairly quickly out it was subjected to that consistently. That's the beauty of the BMS as you said. It keeps the battery from discharging more than rated.
the cells inside are rated at 3c , and there are in 4p4s config , 25ah cells so this can do 400amps without the bms according to china , could be an interesting test. as long as the battery does not heat up more than 50c and the voltage does not drop below the minimum voltage ,
@@KuntalGhosh Would be interesting to see. Some ratings out of China are accurate and some are definitely not. Interesting that these are 25ah cells. Most of the newer batteries like this I've seen are 100ah prismatics in 4S1P. Will Prowse does a great job of tearing them down and testing.
@@jstrahn Lead acid is best used for bursts (hence the cranking amps). Continuous current draw cause heat and boiling and they degrade fast at higher temps (say 150 degrees) compared to LiFe and LTO, that's why car batteries don't last much in hot areas. When you go lithium it changes you! Though BMS's are good and all...some suck and some might be decent enough to allow pulse discharge amps and duration settings
Great video thank you
Thanks
Will my stock alternator charge this battery thanks for the video
Yes it would
Awesome I ordered one for my system it's 2000ish watts rms stock alternator going to try it out and let yall know how well it works
@ronnieanderson3 did you ever install the battery? If so, how does it hold up with your system?
@@ronnieanderson3how’s it going? I just ordered a Redodo smh I’m so ready to put it it
This is a very good test, however.. To make the test totally fair, you would have to eliminate one variable - the voltage. These 3 batteries had slightly different starting voltage, so I believe that influenced the clipping point. I think you should have discharged the lithiums to be at exactly the same voltage as the flooded, and then comare them. Even if lithium is 50% charged it is still charged and for these short test the SOC won't impact the results. More of this please👍
with 100 amp power supply and 100 amp limit on bms thats 2000 watts, try it with higher wattage and it will fail
By fail you mean drop more voltage? Or shut off?
@@HifiVega drop until it shuts off, 3 to 5k you should test that