Thank you for another fun video, Classic Model Trains! After TH-cam takes their cut, this will cover the jewelry cleaner from WalMart. (but not the beer or cigs...;-) )
Super. My railroad still has six MU-2 drives in daily operation, all bought new around 40 to 50 years ago. Two Plymouth CR-4 center cab switchers and one trolley equipped with RADIAL couplers, (Trolley freight, 4 3/4 inch radius curves on the street trackage. I also have an Athearn SW-7 with radial couplers.) one Plymouth MDT end cab switcher, one F7A, and matching F7B dummy, and one GP-20. (Skipped the Centuries, later on got a GP-20 body, made a dummy with Powertorque ALCO non powered trucks, and my Sharknose was a Powertorque. It survives also as a Twin Powertorque, six axle mini Baldwin BP-20. Long story.) All got extra weight, Regular and radial Kadee couplers, some details, full handrails, lighting, good servicing once a year. and windows, (Scotch tape on the GP-20.🙂) and look and run great. The F7 and the GP-20 got their grooves for traction tires filled in, (My railroad eats traction tires.) And the GP-20s got dynamic brake blisters and cooling fans from two Lionel GP-9s. Both will still pull a respectable train, inside or outside, and have a nice patina, from being used so much, that looks very realistic. Hello again from the Tracy Mountain Railway in Colorado. 💙 T.E.N. Edit: All of these are American MU-2 drives, but some locomotives had an Austrian or Australian version of the MU-2 drive, which ran well but was quite different. 💙
Yup!! Partridge family was a bit before my time. Marsha, Marsha, Marsha was my TV crush.... Oh and Mary from Little house on the prairie :-). Thanks for always supporting my channel!!
Excellent demonstration with the jewelry cleaner. Definitely trying this technique. Thank you for passing along a successful solution to cleaning the riveted MU. Take care.
Great video Ron. Those MU2’s can be a challenge to to do preventive maintenance on. This weeks beautiful model is none other than Susan Dey (Laurie Partridge). She was my first TV love back in the day when I was 8 years old. She was incredibly beautiful when she was young.
Love it! That reminded me of a technique I use to break in sealed can brushed 540 size R/C motors. We can't really get inside them without messing up the can. I submerge the motor in White Fuel (Coleman) and hook them up to a 6 volt lantern battery, let it run. Yes naptha vapors can ignite... so you must have the brushes fully submerged for the entire clean. the black junk just pours out. disconnect the battery and lift the motor out. Let it dry right out doesn't take long, then give the bronze bearings on each end just a taste of oil. Motors run brilliantly. It can also be done with water but then you have to really make sure all the water is gone. As your video shows.
Ron! You're doin' a great job producin' these videos! I love the sad music parts while the train failure is realized. LOL!! And your talent as a mechanic is incredible. I learn so much from this channel Thanks! ✌
Perfect timing on this video Ron. I just picked up 2 of these (Burlington and a Santa Fe) in a lot recently. Definitely gonna give this a try and see if I can get them to run just a lil bit better! Thank You Sir!!
Set up my layout upon retiring. Not since 8th grade has it been in use. Took your advice on one of my locos that was DEAD, only the head light worked. It roared back to life! Thanks for the simple/useful video. Have viewed some of your others too. Stewart Goodson Blounts Creek NC
Neat trick, I still drill them out and use small 2-56 screws after tapping a hole. For the window piece you can get the Novus 1-3 set and work through that and bring that clear look back. I use it on model car and plane kits and it works like a charm. Great video as always!!
Another great video. Actually used to race RC cars and would dip the motors in water while they were running to clean them and help them break in. Great tip for the old TYCO motors.
I have done repair video's on all 4 of the motor drives tyco offered. MU, MU-2, Powertorque, and the motor used in the steamers. Perhaps I will swing around to a C430, but Ive got some other loco's in the que first. Thanks for supporting my channel and your kind words :-)
I think it's great that you have so many memories with your Train collection, I have around a dozen now and two that don't/won't work anymore no matter what I do ...and that's ok. I run most of the others at least once a month thanks for the updates on how to ?
I really love your videos. You have a lot of excellent knowledge on Tyco products. In this episode you adlib Derek Bieri quite a bit, and I think it takes away from your content. Just be you! We like you!
Thanks. I watch a lot of VGG myself. Ive never set out to "copy" his style, but I'm from the upper midwest, North Dakota also. Perhaps its just the way we all sound up here :-)
I drilled my MU-2 motor rivets for 00-90 then threaded them 00-90 drilled out the rivet lips disassembled the motor then put back together with 00-90 hex head screws. worked just fine.
I love those MU-2 motors. What I used to do is carefully drill out the ends of those rivets, pull the pins, and replace them with 2-56 screws and nuts. Otherwise, I'd clean and lube everything as you did on the newer ones.
As a kid I remember watching The Partridge Family on TV after school. I have the recalled version of the Spirit of '76 Tyco loco with the MU-2 drive. I will clean that up. The recalled version has the seal on the side that says "President of the United States" which Tyco was later told they could not use. They then came out with the version you have on your shelf.
Another very nice work Ron! Why the hell Tyco started using rivets instead of screws? Just to save some pennies? Very bad decision (at least for us). But your trick solved the cleaning problem! Kudos!
My trick for the MU-2s is to do the scary thing and drill the rivets. The only problem is that the rivets are drilled, so you can't assemble it back together! Or can you? My trick is to get a nice bead of solder on the end of the rivet- reassemble, and then carefully peen the solder blob into a "head" that keeps the bottom of the truck nice and snugly assembled. It works quite well! If you don't feel comfortable drilling rivets though, the shown method seems like a great trick to clean up an MU-2!
That sounds like a pretty good idea also to me. If a Feller knows how to solder correctly I can see this working very well!! I shall try it out in the future. Thanks for the GREAT idea :-)
My father drilled rivets and used long screws and nuts to replace the rivets thru bolt style. He loved trains . Jerry rigged everything in a good way that worked for his needs
Susan Dey I think. Let’s see if I am right! 😊. Yep. Remember her braces caught radio signals in the Partridge Family. Thanks will get some of that cleaner as I have committed sacrilege by breaking off the truck covers to access the commutator and brushes for cleaning then just adding some more grease after using a lot of Isopropyl Alcohol try clean off as much old grease as can. Super glued the truck covers back on and good to go. Have had good luck with this method on a fair number of C430s and GP20s.
I think when you oiled the axle ends that's migrating over to the axle pickup, so she is sluggish at low voltage. I am just going to re-lube the pinion gear and leave it at that.
Ron, I would like to interact with you more, I live in Ashland, and work and rent, from a Hobby Shop owner, who buys a lot of estate sales, and a lot of vintage, items.
Crackin me up, another great / fun / informative video Ron, I've also had a lot of the same troubles with those dang little screws until I bought my "Mini spring loaded parts grabber". Awesome little device to hold them screws and get them started in there little holes in places that, most of the times, are tough to reach. Police? 14 year old? Factory and pink slips? I've had them both happen to me, a couple of times I think, not necessarily in that order. I think I just heard you say "Thrust Washer".
Love your videos Ron, thank you for sharing. I drill the rivet heads off and replace with 2.5mm screws. mxuteuk makes a nice set on Amazon " mxuteuk M2.5 Screw Assortment Set, M2.5 x 4/6/8/10/12/16/20/25mm Hex Socket Head Cap Screws Bolts Nuts Kit,400PCS 304 Stainless Steel Assorted Screws with Hex Wrench G035-M2.5" that does the trick. That way the truck can be serviced properly for years to come.
When you were pointing at all your engines on the shelf at the beginning, it sounded like you were saying bear turds, bear turds, bear turds. I tried closed-captions and it had no idea either. Is that what you were saying? And Susan Dey was pretty stunning in that photo! Thanks for sharing that one.
@@classicmodeltrains I have just done it on one for a friend. You don’t want replacement rivets. If you need to get it apart again 22 mm M3 bolts and nuts is the way to go. Takes some drilling to enlarge the holes.
@@classicmodeltrains Just an update on this. I took out that top pin and rivet that holds the armatures around the motor because something is slightly warped and motor was rubbing on an armature. There’s nothing to that assembly if anybody comes across this. You drill the rivet out and pull the pin. The top middle block is a magnet that magnetizes the steel armatures. That’s all that is there. Need an M3 bolt, a washer or two for a spacer and a nut to put them back together. Need a pair of 22 mm bolts to put the truck back together. End holes have to be drilled out slightly to accommodate the bolts. Guaranteed they used rivets and pins at the factory just because it was the cheapest option at the time with no thought on future service.
@classicmodeltrains translucent, yes, but not yellowed. It could've been my video settings. I set some of my Tyco windows in the sun to get the yellow out of them. They're still frosted, but less yellowed
hey Ron! Can you do a video on how to improve the power on a tyco 4-6-0? The tender wheels don’t get good power. I love your videos and you teach me so much!
@@classicmodeltrains the tender wheels don’t get good power unless I kind of lean it to the right with my hand. I tried putting weights on one side but it wouldn’t work. And I’m pretty sure that the locomotive gets one side of the power and the tender gets the other side, therefore when the tender doesn’t get good power the locomotive will refuse to move until the tender wheels get good enough power.
@@thetoontrain473 the wheels and truck assemblies need to be cleaned up. Putting weight off center will cause problems down the road. Are you working on a "Pacific" 4-6-2 ? I have several repair video's on them and how to fix them up.
Great video Ron!!! Im hoping you'll take this in the good natured way in which it is intended ........ I think all of your viewers should start a drinking game every time you say, "Thrust Washer" , ... we have to drink. What do you think? Could be fun.
Ive though of a lot of ways a drinking game could be played while watching my Vid's. I noticed I have quirky speech habits. I edit them out during post. Ive though about leaving them in and mention this kind of game, but honestly a Feller would have to sit down with a 6 pack :-)
@@classicmodeltrains .. awesome, heck, leave them in. Part of the charm of your videos is the inclusive "everyman" vibe that you project. It's fantastic that your sharing your experience.
You can do this procedure using Isopropyl Alchohol (IPA) at a pinch, and with any hard to dismantle drive units. Keep IPA well away from painted parts though. NOTE: IPA fumes can be flammable so this is at your own risk, but so long as the motor is submerged completely it does not spark and I have not had any problems over many years.
I just stuck a Q-tip with knockoff wD-40 in the cimmutator of mine and poked at it with the wet and then the dry end until it decided to run, sparks a lot but it stops sparking once it gets going, derails on 18 radius though 😞
I was at Walmart the other day and they don’t carry this cleaner anymore. In fact I was unable to locate it on the web. Do you have or heard of a good substitute cleaner? The ones they had was one for silver or another for gold. Not sir if different cleaner chemical or different strengths.
Dang it! This would've saved me having to drill out the rivets on a Tyco F7 mu2 only to find that the armature bearings were riveted in as well. Left THAT well enough alone. Did hose it down with contact cleaner. Reattached the cover plate with 2-56 screws and nuts.
Guess it's a good thing you put the windshield in first, Right? Guess I also learned something today. I had thought, up till now, that everything on your wall there was already rebuilt and/or restored. Go figure...
I cant confirm your comment. This one has it in the back. it can be put in front or back I believe. The newer power torques I know for sure their all in the front. This Sharknose is my only MU drive. I have a lot of 60's red box with MU-2's and I believe there in the back
Can you fit two mu-2 drives into a 430 model? ...I built a golden eagle with two power torque motors .. added alittle extra weigh..and it pulls 30 cars with ease...I want to build a 430 with dual mu-2 moters ...I was wandering if you knew if its possible with the narrower rear end 🙂
I'm not able to diagnose problems via TH-cam messaging. Sorry. Check out my playlist of tyco repairs. Perhaps there is a solution for you in one of those video's.
The traction tires can be removed with a small metal pick set. sometimes the truck side frame makes it difficult, so I remove the side frame, replace traction tires, and glue truck side frame back on.
@@FreedomSquareGardenRailway Metal side frame cannot. don't. Sorry. I though yours had plastic. None of my Tyco MU-2's have metal side frames. are you perhaps referencing a MU ? something from the 50's?
I like the cleaning method, but there are two spots on the armature that really need lubrication. These are journal/strap bearings that hold the armature to the frame body of the truck. The best way to get to them is to drill out the rivets which everyone hates. I don't know the exact size of the screws, washers, and nuts, but my guess would be #2-56 1" screw with matching nut and washer. The screw/washer combo would be mounted on the topside for the pivot plate and the washer at the bottom for the truck cover plate. I would like to add that someone on TH-cam a long time ago actually drilled out the rivets, but never showed the reassembly process. The video does show a good deal of the inside of the motor assembly. I will leave the information to this video for reference. Channel Name: watchnu2 Title: MANTUA MU MOTOR BREAKDOWN_WMV V9.wmv Video Link: th-cam.com/video/KGfIyZ_OrNk/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for the link to the video. I believe a nut on the bottom of the truck would hang to low and get caught up on the switches. I also believe the pan head of the machine bolt would do the same thing. I completely agree that both journals of the armature need good lubrication. I was able to get to one very easy. Perhaps the oiling of the gear externally will transfer oil onto the worm gear and If I wish hard enough it might make its way into that other journal. Now the only way for me to test this theory would be to run this GP for many hours and see if a dry journal squeal starts to rear its head.
@@classicmodeltrains I would not disagree about the nut being a problem. My idea would be considered experimental until proven otherwise. The nut could be modified through grinding and sanding to avoid being too low to cause problems. As far as using a pan screw without a washer, the washer would serve two purposes. The first would allow enough for the swivel plate to have enough surface area to contact, and the second reason would compensate for the screw being too long even though grinding/sanding would compensate for length. As an interesting twist, I have a Tyco/Mantua PRR F7A unit from the 1960s which have screws in the bottom truck plate. Could the answer already be found? Well... I haven't disassembled it to find out. Maybe, it has the answer or maybe not. The saga will continue to this answer... As far as the oil reaching the bearings mentioned in your comment, I would hope this happen. Your method is more of a non-evasive method to the 'drilling out the rivets' method. Your method would be far simpler. If the engine develops a squeal, then the bearings mentioned may need to be addressed. Otherwise, time may tell for the owners of the Tyco/Mantua MU2 drives.
Hy Ron, never seen this before. Must be constructed by a guy who never ever serviced a loko or never ever had anything to do with it ( lokos..... or model rails....) is this brand still alive? can' t believe it😂😂😂. Regards from Germany Rainer
I’ll definitely keep this method in my mind. But this locomotive isn’t the rarest I’ve seen quite a few. Rare Tyco MU-2 driven GP20’s are the CNW and Red and silver ones. The CNW one I own! Nice revival:)
Good morning rails. Thanks for your kind words on my vid, but I want to say I didnt claim this one is the rarest. I said it's sorta rare. I had a hard time finding this road name. when I do see it, its priced a little higher than other GP's. I could be wrong. Thanks for the good info you shared :-)
@@classicmodeltrains Not really, that is it is simple and it makes it possible to repair it if something is physically wrong with it beyond it being clogged with petrified grease and oil logged, like if a wheel has a broken flange.
Thank you for another fun video, Classic Model Trains! After TH-cam takes their cut, this will cover the jewelry cleaner from WalMart. (but not the beer or cigs...;-) )
Thank you so much!! Yup one jug of cleaner paid off. Gunna go into debt for beer and smokes. Good thing I have a day job :-)
Super. My railroad still has six MU-2 drives in daily operation, all bought new around 40 to 50 years ago. Two Plymouth CR-4 center cab switchers and one trolley equipped with RADIAL couplers, (Trolley freight, 4 3/4 inch radius curves on the street trackage. I also have an Athearn SW-7 with radial couplers.) one Plymouth MDT end cab switcher, one F7A, and matching F7B dummy, and one GP-20. (Skipped the Centuries, later on got a GP-20 body, made a dummy with Powertorque ALCO non powered trucks, and my Sharknose was a Powertorque. It survives also as a Twin Powertorque, six axle mini Baldwin BP-20. Long story.) All got extra weight, Regular and radial Kadee couplers, some details, full handrails, lighting, good servicing once a year. and windows, (Scotch tape on the GP-20.🙂) and look and run great. The F7 and the GP-20 got their grooves for traction tires filled in, (My railroad eats traction tires.) And the GP-20s got dynamic brake blisters and cooling fans from two Lionel GP-9s. Both will still pull a respectable train, inside or outside, and have a nice patina, from being used so much, that looks very realistic. Hello again from the Tracy Mountain Railway in Colorado. 💙 T.E.N. Edit: All of these are American MU-2 drives, but some locomotives had an Austrian or Australian version of the MU-2 drive, which ran well but was quite different. 💙
Sounds like you did a lot of work to them Classic's. Nice to hear a good tale of good 'ol loco's still doing there duty
Susan Dey! Partridge Family. Always a pleasure to hear your voice and watch you fix or clean something. I really look forward to it.
Yup!! Partridge family was a bit before my time. Marsha, Marsha, Marsha was my TV crush.... Oh and Mary from Little house on the prairie :-). Thanks for always supporting my channel!!
I can watch these vids over and over,so much info and the commentary is awesome,Thanks Ron.
Very kind of you Bart!
Excellent demonstration with the jewelry cleaner. Definitely trying this technique. Thank you for passing along a successful solution to cleaning the riveted MU. Take care.
Thanks SFB! Hope it works as well for you :-)
Great video Ron. Those MU2’s can be a challenge to to do preventive maintenance on. This weeks beautiful model is none other than Susan Dey (Laurie Partridge). She was my first TV love back in the day when I was 8 years old. She was incredibly beautiful when she was young.
Thanks! Yup Susan was a head turner for sure.
Your quickly becoming my favorite channel Ho related great instructions for newbies like me
Thank you very much!!
I JUST LOVE your complete clear instructions on these engines and restorations ... and I love the classics ... I love them .. the old lines
Thanks for supporting my channel and your kind words :-)
Your videos are so much fun. Entertainment education. Thanks!
Thank you :-)
Good Job! I love Reading, my Favorite Railroad. I am glad you now know how to pronounce it. I need that GP20.
Thanks Ben and I was mispronouncing it till the you tubers got me on the right path.
@@classicmodeltrains Haha, we learn as we go!
Love it! That reminded me of a technique I use to break in sealed can brushed 540 size R/C motors. We can't really get inside them without messing up the can. I submerge the motor in White Fuel (Coleman) and hook them up to a 6 volt lantern battery, let it run. Yes naptha vapors can ignite... so you must have the brushes fully submerged for the entire clean. the black junk just pours out. disconnect the battery and lift the motor out. Let it dry right out doesn't take long, then give the bronze bearings on each end just a taste of oil. Motors run brilliantly. It can also be done with water but then you have to really make sure all the water is gone. As your video shows.
I like the white fuel idea. Faster evaporation for sure.
Ron! You're doin' a great job producin' these videos! I love the sad music parts while the train failure is realized. LOL!!
And your talent as a mechanic is incredible. I learn so much from this channel Thanks! ✌
Thank you so much!!
Perfect timing on this video Ron. I just picked up 2 of these (Burlington and a Santa Fe) in a lot recently. Definitely gonna give this a try and see if I can get them to run just a lil bit better! Thank You Sir!!
Glad this worked out for you. I hope the new loco's pull through :-)
Modern good quality train controllers really gives a life to these old motors that the train set type didn't. Another fab video thanks.
I agree! Thanks for stopping by :-)
I think I'd just drill out the rivets and use some small screws for reassembly. Thanks for the tip using jewelry cleaner. Cheers from eastern TN
They use a special kind of rivet for the assembly. Put together in a jig. Very difficult to achieve at small scale.
Set up my layout upon retiring. Not since 8th grade has it been in use. Took your advice on one of my locos that was DEAD, only the head light worked. It roared back to life! Thanks for the simple/useful video. Have viewed some of your others too. Stewart Goodson Blounts Creek NC
Hello Stewart, Glad you dug out your old set and got it running again. It waited for you for quite some time :-)
Neat trick, I still drill them out and use small 2-56 screws after tapping a hole. For the window piece you can get the Novus 1-3 set and work through that and bring that clear look back. I use it on model car and plane kits and it works like a charm. Great video as always!!
Drilling and tapping sounds like a pretty good idea also!!
Another great video. Actually used to race RC cars and would dip the motors in water while they were running to clean them and help them break in. Great tip for the old TYCO motors.
Thanks John!
Ron C 430 next please!! U the man thank U!!
I have done repair video's on all 4 of the motor drives tyco offered. MU, MU-2, Powertorque, and the motor used in the steamers. Perhaps I will swing around to a C430, but Ive got some other loco's in the que first. Thanks for supporting my channel and your kind words :-)
Outstanding cleaning tip. I laughed hard when you were talking how dirty the body was! Lol🫵✌️
Thanks! I sure seem to find the dirty ones.
I was waiting for you to say, look up….way up and let’s meet Casey & Finnigan 🤣. Great fun presentation.
:-)
I think it's great that you have so many memories with your Train collection, I have around a dozen now and two that don't/won't work anymore no matter what I do ...and that's ok. I run most of the others at least once a month thanks for the updates on how to ?
Thanks
I love this episode
Thanks!!
I really love your videos. You have a lot of excellent knowledge on Tyco products. In this episode you adlib Derek Bieri quite a bit, and I think it takes away from your content. Just be you! We like you!
Thanks. I watch a lot of VGG myself. Ive never set out to "copy" his style, but I'm from the upper midwest, North Dakota also. Perhaps its just the way we all sound up here :-)
WOW ..... What a BRILLIANT Idea!!!! 👍
I wished I came up with it :-)
Susan Dey. - Cheers - TN
:-)
I drilled my MU-2 motor rivets for 00-90 then threaded them 00-90 drilled out the rivet lips disassembled the motor then put back together with 00-90 hex head screws. worked just fine.
right on
Nice job servicing that tyco mantua reading gp20 with the mu2 motor!
Thanks Matt
Cindy Crawford. 😂 Wow that cleaner is life changing!
Susan Dey, from the Partridge family. Yup this little trick is pretty neat :-)
I love those MU-2 motors. What I used to do is carefully drill out the ends of those rivets, pull the pins, and replace them with 2-56 screws and nuts. Otherwise, I'd clean and lube everything as you did on the newer ones.
Right on!
The old tyco's are the best
Built real good for sure :-)
Love Your Videos Ron Keep up the Good work👍👍👍👍.
Thank you :-)
Thanks Ron I am a big Reading fan
You Bet Joe
Absolutely brilliant idea thank you brother
Thank you, Glad you enjoyed it :-)
I just bought a Mantue GP-20 in Burlington markings. this will help! Thank you!
Glad to help out!!
As a kid I remember watching The Partridge Family on TV after school. I have the recalled version of the Spirit of '76 Tyco loco with the MU-2 drive. I will clean that up. The recalled version has the seal on the side that says "President of the United States" which Tyco was later told they could not use. They then came out with the version you have on your shelf.
Yup. Theres 3 versions of the '76. I need 2 more!!
Another very nice work Ron! Why the hell Tyco started using rivets instead of screws? Just to save some pennies? Very bad decision (at least for us). But your trick solved the cleaning problem! Kudos!
Thanks Regis. Dang bean counters always messing up what the engineers actually wanted :-)
My trick for the MU-2s is to do the scary thing and drill the rivets. The only problem is that the rivets are drilled, so you can't assemble it back together! Or can you? My trick is to get a nice bead of solder on the end of the rivet- reassemble, and then carefully peen the solder blob into a "head" that keeps the bottom of the truck nice and snugly assembled. It works quite well! If you don't feel comfortable drilling rivets though, the shown method seems like a great trick to clean up an MU-2!
That sounds like a pretty good idea also to me. If a Feller knows how to solder correctly I can see this working very well!! I shall try it out in the future. Thanks for the GREAT idea :-)
My father drilled rivets and used long screws and nuts to replace the rivets thru bolt style. He loved trains . Jerry rigged everything in a good way that worked for his needs
Awesome repair buddy.
Thank you :-)
Susan Dey I think. Let’s see if I am right! 😊. Yep. Remember her braces caught radio signals in the Partridge Family. Thanks will get some of that cleaner as I have committed sacrilege by breaking off the truck covers to access the commutator and brushes for cleaning then just adding some more grease after using a lot of Isopropyl Alcohol try clean off as much old grease as can. Super glued the truck covers back on and good to go. Have had good luck with this method on a fair number of C430s and GP20s.
Erick your always right!
@@classicmodeltrains LOL nope you stumped me on the last one :). All the best Ron. Great video, thanks!
I think when you oiled the axle ends that's migrating over to the axle pickup, so she is sluggish at low voltage. I am just going to re-lube the pinion gear and leave it at that.
:-)
Awesome Video Ron. Thank you.
Thank you also!!
Ron, I have a taco reading GP20.Identical to the one you're working on.Thanks for the video
Right on Carl! hope its a good runner for ya
Ron, I would like to interact with you more, I live in Ashland, and work and rent, from a Hobby Shop owner, who buys a lot of estate sales, and a lot of vintage, items.
@@carltesh9612 send me a e-mail. address in the description of all my video's. leave a number. I will call you.
Crackin me up, another great / fun / informative video Ron, I've also had a lot of the same troubles with those dang little screws until I bought my "Mini spring loaded parts grabber". Awesome little device to hold them screws and get them started in there little holes in places that, most of the times, are tough to reach. Police? 14 year old? Factory and pink slips? I've had them both happen to me, a couple of times I think, not necessarily in that order. I think I just heard you say "Thrust Washer".
Another Feller mentioned that to me yesterday. I'm looking into scoring one of them fancy things. Thrust Washer... Is that code for drink a beer? :-)
@@classicmodeltrains yes it is, and I think I'll have another. Thanks a bunch. P.S. Love that intro in some of the older vids
@@SteveAliciaGregoire The Ol' Chevy pickup? I throw that in every now and then 🙂
Thanks i order some today alone with lebell oil thank Ron
Glad to help out Steve
Love your videos Ron, thank you for sharing. I drill the rivet heads off and replace with 2.5mm screws. mxuteuk makes a nice set on Amazon " mxuteuk M2.5 Screw Assortment Set, M2.5 x 4/6/8/10/12/16/20/25mm Hex Socket Head Cap Screws Bolts Nuts Kit,400PCS 304 Stainless Steel Assorted Screws with Hex Wrench G035-M2.5" that does the trick. That way the truck can be serviced properly for years to come.
Thank you Randall!! A few Fellers have shared the way they bolt them back together after the rivet has been drilled out. Thanks for your information!!
Thats was amazing 🧼 🚂🇨🇦🇺🇸 im getting some of that!! Thanks Ron
Glad it could help you out 4ever :-)
When you were pointing at all your engines on the shelf at the beginning, it sounded like you were saying bear turds, bear turds, bear turds. I tried closed-captions and it had no idea either. Is that what you were saying? And Susan Dey was pretty stunning in that photo! Thanks for sharing that one.
I was saying PowerTorque. That’s the kind of drive system in the other half of my Tyco engines. I gotta quit mumbling :-)
Loved this one Ron I just picked up ones of those type engines was wondering how to lube it mine is the spirit of 76 U B
Hope this technique works for ya!
That is an amazing way to clean and saves so much time... I like these MUs more than pancake motors ..seem stronger ..IDK
The MU's and MU-2's are a great design. Wished they kept them in production
Another great video.
Thank you
You can get in there. Dremel the rivets and pull the pins. Drill out the holes to take M3 bolts. Good tip on the jewelry cleaner.
original rivets are different that a simple bolt. Ive heard Fellers doing that. I just wished we could get proper replacement rivets
@@classicmodeltrains I have just done it on one for a friend. You don’t want replacement rivets. If you need to get it apart again 22 mm M3 bolts and nuts is the way to go. Takes some drilling to enlarge the holes.
@@classicmodeltrains Just an update on this. I took out that top pin and rivet that holds the armatures around the motor because something is slightly warped and motor was rubbing on an armature. There’s nothing to that assembly if anybody comes across this. You drill the rivet out and pull the pin. The top middle block is a magnet that magnetizes the steel armatures. That’s all that is there. Need an M3 bolt, a washer or two for a spacer and a nut to put them back together. Need a pair of 22 mm bolts to put the truck back together. End holes have to be drilled out slightly to accommodate the bolts. Guaranteed they used rivets and pins at the factory just because it was the cheapest option at the time with no thought on future service.
GREAT video nice job love the videos
Thank you very much
Hiya Ron, for future reference it might do some good to let the sun bleach thay window piece back to white
I'm not sure what your referencing. If it's the Passenger cars they are supposed to have translucent windows.
@classicmodeltrains translucent, yes, but not yellowed. It could've been my video settings. I set some of my Tyco windows in the sun to get the yellow out of them. They're still frosted, but less yellowed
@@scale_model_apprentice oh gotcha! Guess I didn’t really notice the yellowing. Yeah good idea :-)
hey Ron! Can you do a video on how to improve the power on a tyco 4-6-0? The tender wheels don’t get good power.
I love your videos and you teach me so much!
Thanks for your kind words! Tyco 4-6-0? I'm at a loss as what your referencing. Perhaps the tender drive 2-8-0's? Chattanooga's?
@@classicmodeltrains the tender wheels don’t get good power unless I kind of lean it to the right with my hand. I tried putting weights on one side but it wouldn’t work.
And I’m pretty sure that the locomotive gets one side of the power and the tender gets the other side, therefore when the tender doesn’t get good power the locomotive will refuse to move until the tender wheels get good enough power.
@@thetoontrain473 the wheels and truck assemblies need to be cleaned up. Putting weight off center will cause problems down the road. Are you working on a "Pacific" 4-6-2 ? I have several repair video's on them and how to fix them up.
@@classicmodeltrains I’m talking about a 4-6-0 type, basically similar to the 4-8-0 but a different wheel arrangement
Thank you for sharing.👍
Sure thing! Thanks for watching :-)
I only have one with the MU motor. It runs great. It's in a c430 soo engine. I need a rear coupler and pocket for it. I can't find one anywhere.
I Make my own out of Kadee parts. One of my earlier video's shows how.
Great video Ron!!!
Im hoping you'll take this in the good natured way in which it is intended ........ I think all of your viewers should start a drinking game every time you say, "Thrust Washer" , ... we have to drink. What do you think? Could be fun.
you better watch out man prohibition is coming again ha ha 😂!
@@FreedomSquareGardenRailway all the more reason to drink and tinker with model trains!!
Ive though of a lot of ways a drinking game could be played while watching my Vid's. I noticed I have quirky speech habits. I edit them out during post. Ive though about leaving them in and mention this kind of game, but honestly a Feller would have to sit down with a 6 pack :-)
@@classicmodeltrains .. awesome, heck, leave them in. Part of the charm of your videos is the inclusive "everyman" vibe that you project. It's fantastic that your sharing your experience.
You can do this procedure using Isopropyl Alchohol (IPA) at a pinch, and with any hard to dismantle drive units. Keep IPA well away from painted parts though.
NOTE: IPA fumes can be flammable so this is at your own risk, but so long as the motor is submerged completely it does not spark and I have not had any problems over many years.
I bet it works as a good solvent/degreaser!! Thanks for the tip :-)
I just stuck a Q-tip with knockoff wD-40 in the cimmutator of mine and poked at it with the wet and then the dry end until it decided to run, sparks a lot but it stops sparking once it gets going, derails on 18 radius though 😞
Do what works for ya. Weird that it would derail on curves. something binding up I suppose.
I have cleaned these with spray electric contact cleaner from the automotive store with great success,
Right on! lots of different techniques have been flown my way :-)
Be careful some are not plastic compatible even if they say so. Ask me how I know!
@@peterkneissl3358 I have honestly never had any issues and I have used various brands
I was at Walmart the other day and they don’t carry this cleaner anymore. In fact I was unable to locate it on the web. Do you have or heard of a good substitute cleaner? The ones they had was one for silver or another for gold. Not sir if different cleaner chemical or different strengths.
Great video.😊😊
Thank you!!
@@classicmodeltrains your welcome🙏
Dang it! This would've saved me having to drill out the rivets on a Tyco F7 mu2 only to find that the armature bearings were riveted in as well. Left THAT well enough alone. Did hose it down with contact cleaner. Reattached the cover plate with 2-56 screws and nuts.
I do have a CB&Q gp20 that is mu2 powered, so I'll give this a go. My Santa Fe gp20 is power torque.
Sounds like you got the old MU-2 working again. Hope this procedure saves some time. :-)
@@classicmodeltrains Should save some time making sure metal shavings haven't gotten into the armature.
Guess it's a good thing you put the windshield in first,
Right?
Guess I also learned something today. I had thought, up till now, that everything on your wall there was already rebuilt and/or restored.
Go figure...
That wall-O-loco's has enough work for me for the next few years. :-)
I have an old F unit that has the MU power truck in the back. Is that right?
I cant confirm your comment. This one has it in the back. it can be put in front or back I believe. The newer power torques I know for sure their all in the front. This Sharknose is my only MU drive. I have a lot of 60's red box with MU-2's and I believe there in the back
Great episode! Any issues rinsing the motor with water after soaking it in the jewelry cleaner? I’m worried about corrosion.
I made sure and blow dry it with compressed air.
@@classicmodeltrains Thanks, do you use canned compressed air?
@@jimorlando5700 no. I have a big air compressor in my service truck I use.
Can you fit two mu-2 drives into a 430 model? ...I built a golden eagle with two power torque motors .. added alittle extra weigh..and it pulls 30 cars with ease...I want to build a 430 with dual mu-2 moters ...I was wandering if you knew if its possible with the narrower rear end 🙂
Ive been wanting to try that myself.....Challenge Accepted!!!!
@@classicmodeltrains yes you lead the way ...all I gotta know if that mu-2 is gonna fit in the butt of that 430 😉
th-cam.com/video/X6sS0K0Ca1o/w-d-xo.htmlsi=JGHPEG76O90nCr2d
were did get the black grease for wheel bearing
Conductive grease from amazon
I need help on a 1969 tyco mantra santa fe f7 rear truck gimble doesn't pivet help please
I'm not able to diagnose problems via TH-cam messaging. Sorry. Check out my playlist of tyco repairs. Perhaps there is a solution for you in one of those video's.
Nice Any way you get around the rivets if you need to replace a traction tire on these?
The traction tires can be removed with a small metal pick set. sometimes the truck side frame makes it difficult, so I remove the side frame, replace traction tires, and glue truck side frame back on.
@@classicmodeltrains ok these side frames are.metal I will give it a shot _ I did not think they can be pried off - Thanks again.
@@FreedomSquareGardenRailway Metal side frame cannot. don't. Sorry. I though yours had plastic. None of my Tyco MU-2's have metal side frames. are you perhaps referencing a MU ? something from the 50's?
I like the cleaning method, but there are two spots on the armature that really need lubrication. These are journal/strap bearings that hold the armature to the frame body of the truck. The best way to get to them is to drill out the rivets which everyone hates. I don't know the exact size of the screws, washers, and nuts, but my guess would be #2-56 1" screw with matching nut and washer. The screw/washer combo would be mounted on the topside for the pivot plate and the washer at the bottom for the truck cover plate.
I would like to add that someone on TH-cam a long time ago actually drilled out the rivets, but never showed the reassembly process. The video does show a good deal of the inside of the motor assembly. I will leave the information to this video for reference.
Channel Name: watchnu2
Title: MANTUA MU MOTOR BREAKDOWN_WMV V9.wmv
Video Link: th-cam.com/video/KGfIyZ_OrNk/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for the link to the video. I believe a nut on the bottom of the truck would hang to low and get caught up on the switches. I also believe the pan head of the machine bolt would do the same thing. I completely agree that both journals of the armature need good lubrication. I was able to get to one very easy. Perhaps the oiling of the gear externally will transfer oil onto the worm gear and If I wish hard enough it might make its way into that other journal. Now the only way for me to test this theory would be to run this GP for many hours and see if a dry journal squeal starts to rear its head.
@@classicmodeltrains I would not disagree about the nut being a problem. My idea would be considered experimental until proven otherwise. The nut could be modified through grinding and sanding to avoid being too low to cause problems. As far as using a pan screw without a washer, the washer would serve two purposes. The first would allow enough for the swivel plate to have enough surface area to contact, and the second reason would compensate for the screw being too long even though grinding/sanding would compensate for length.
As an interesting twist, I have a Tyco/Mantua PRR F7A unit from the 1960s which have screws in the bottom truck plate. Could the answer already be found? Well... I haven't disassembled it to find out. Maybe, it has the answer or maybe not. The saga will continue to this answer...
As far as the oil reaching the bearings mentioned in your comment, I would hope this happen. Your method is more of a non-evasive method to the 'drilling out the rivets' method. Your method would be far simpler. If the engine develops a squeal, then the bearings mentioned may need to be addressed. Otherwise, time may tell for the owners of the Tyco/Mantua MU2 drives.
Hy Ron, never seen this before. Must be constructed by a guy who never ever serviced a loko or never ever had anything to do with it ( lokos..... or model rails....) is this brand still alive? can' t believe it😂😂😂. Regards from Germany Rainer
This type of motor truck was used from 1960 till around 1973 from a manufacturer called TYCO. They are not around anymore. stopped in 1993.
That's
Susan day from the partridge family
Sure a cutie back then
What is the name of the electric grease
Carbon conductive grease. got it from Amazon
"..until the end of time" 🤣
:-)
I’ll definitely keep this method in my mind. But this locomotive isn’t the rarest I’ve seen quite a few. Rare Tyco MU-2 driven GP20’s are the CNW and Red and silver ones. The CNW one I own! Nice revival:)
cnw never had a gp20
@@ufolive1 Tyco Made a model of their GP20 in CNW colours. I never said It was realistic
@@railsofontario3029 tyco made a few By imagination only Roads or Motive power
@@bernardc2553 I’m aware.
Good morning rails. Thanks for your kind words on my vid, but I want to say I didnt claim this one is the rarest. I said it's sorta rare. I had a hard time finding this road name. when I do see it, its priced a little higher than other GP's. I could be wrong. Thanks for the good info you shared :-)
Do you have Lionel HO GP30?
I do not.
Tiene poca fuerza el motor y se quebró cremallera del costado lo quiero nuevo donde se compra
Parece que você teve azar com um desses no passado. Eu não corro muito, então não tenho conhecimento de suas deficiências.
These drives take a lot of power to get going.
Oh?
Thanks
Thanks for watching!!
Necesitó el motor de locomotora tyco
Eu preciso de alguns desses motores também
Susan dey? Or day?
Yup! Susan Dey.
@@classicmodeltrains did i win anything Ron?🙏
Should Note No Engineers were drown or Injured during this process..bahahah 😂
Ha hahahaha.....:-)
What you can do is drill out the bolts and then replace them with nylon nuts and bolts. That is howvI refurbished Tyco motors like that.
Sounds a lot more involved than just doing this. But if it works, that's all that matters :-)
@@classicmodeltrains
Not really, that is it is simple and it makes it possible to repair it if something is physically wrong with it beyond it being clogged with petrified grease and oil logged, like if a wheel has a broken flange.
Wax on the end of the screwdriver
OOOhhhhh....... Thats a GREAT idea!! simple, and I don't have to buy anything special. Thank You!!!!
Susan Dey!
Such a cutie
That motor runs a lot quieter than the Tyco power torque motors.
A much superior motor/drive system for sure
If you are going to use jewelry cleaner, you might as well go on and use a ultrasonic jewelry cleaner.
A really good point!! I should get a tiny ultrasonic just for motors :-)
Susan Dey!
Yup!
Susan Dey
Yup!!
Sharon day
Susan Dey
Susan Day.
Yup!
"Toy" Trains do not creep!
I have some that will.
Susan Dey
What a FOX!!
Susan Dey òr Laura Partridge
Yup!!
Susan Dey
Yup!
man something about the women from back in the day!!! they dont make em like that anymore!!!!
Not over processed, that's for sure :-)
Suzanne day
Yup. Susan Dey
Susan Dee
Yup, Susan Dey
Uh, Susan Dey
Yup