Thank you for showing this Boedy. It seems very sensitive. Really like the digital degree wheel from HMWF Worksaws. Great job on the timing advancement
Great vid. I think if I was going to try to do that on more then one saw I’d make up an adjustable stop so once I had my baseline and mark I could dial the piston down the six degrees or whatever and the stop would hold the crack in that position while I carefully tightened the flywheel. Thing definitely sounded good once you buttoned it back up! 👍🏼
If the key is not needed to secure the flywheel in place why not just remove it, especially on saws with a removable key? Also, why not use the TDC method and then mark the degrees on the flywheel?
The key is a place holder. Without it, you would need to time it anytime you remove the flywheel. In this situation, I would still need to time it again if the flywheel is removed, but on a saw where the timing isn't advanced, or even if it has a removable key that has been advanced, the key holds the position needed and you can simply put the flywheel back on and it is lined up properly.
On the 55, the floppy cap only works on the fuel tank. The oil cap is much smaller and I had to use the stock 55 cap. But on the fuel side, it is a standard Husqvarna flippy cap. Just go to Lowes or anyplace that sells Husqvarna saws and the flippy caps they sell will work. Same cap fits all the modern Rancher saws and pro Husqvarnas.
Boedy if you are going to do this more times consider spendinh 25 bucks and get yourself a timing light so you get concrete timing numbers and not "kinda winging it" and no real way to see if you actually got there. Altho it can very well be accurate like that too dont get me wrong
I have a timing light, but seems like SUCH a hassle to do that. Think about it...you would need to mark out top dead center AND all the degrees up to about 30⁰, put it back together, start it, remove the recoil, hook up your timing light, and then attach a separate 12v power supply to finally get it to work. That's a hell of a lot of work.
If we lived close I'd show you a much easier way to do this. To much to type and seeing it is better vs something being lost in translation in a typed message.
@@novicelumberjack I'll try to explain it here first. If that makes sense, no vid needed. I have two ways I do it actually. One is "precise", the other quick n dirty. Both work. The engine tells you if you went to far in either case. I've had one not like any advance. Popped and a wouldn't rev out. Anyway, here it goes. First off, leave the "crankshaft is being retarded" speak out of it. You are confusing yourself and probably others. In this process think of the crankshaft as a fixed shaft and all you are doing is rotating that flywheel in relation to it. Counter clockwise as viewed from the flywheel side. It's that simple. I use a degree wheel, not Joe's electronic unit. Before removing the flywheel spin the magnets away from the coil or remove the coil so it can't move the flywheel once loose. Mark one of your fins with a thin sharpie. Read the degree wheel and write it down. Rotate the flywheel, in the direction the engine spins, the number of degrees you want. So say 6° is the desired advance and you started at 90°, @ 96° mark the saw body in line with the previously marked fin. Now remove the flywheel and file your key, whichever side needed based on its location in the flywheel or in the crankshaft. Place the flywheel back on, rotate it against the key, while holding the drill chuck on the degree wheel, and tighten the nut. Just enough to snug it. Now put the degree wheel at your original mark. In this explanation, 90°. If your marked fin is at the mark on the saw body you are @ 96° and finished except the full tightening of the flywheel nut. If not, remove and repeat the filing until the fin lines up. Then tighten the nut. I put a piston stop in and rotate against it with the flywheel to tighten it. I don't use it for the advancing process I described.
@@novicelumberjack Now the quick n dirty. No wheel. Put a piston stop in. Rotate to it. Mark the flywheel and saw body together. Remove the flywheel and file the key. Put the flywheel back on. Check how far the marks are off after rotating against the piston stop. I shoot for 3/16"-1/4" of rotation as indicated by the misalignment of the line on the flywheel in relation to the saw body. Repeat until you achieve the 3/16" to 1/4" of flywheel advance. Its fast and works. I hope these explanations make sense. They do in my head. 😂
Thanks for taking us through this and looking forward to hearing it run.
Glad you are getting back into this saw.
Thank you for showing this Boedy. It seems very sensitive. Really like the digital degree wheel from HMWF Worksaws. Great job on the timing advancement
Thank you! That digital gauge is the bestest! At first I wasn't so sure about it, but now that I'm used to it, it is VERY handy.
Great vid. I think if I was going to try to do that on more then one saw I’d make up an adjustable stop so once I had my baseline and mark I could dial the piston down the six degrees or whatever and the stop would hold the crack in that position while I carefully tightened the flywheel. Thing definitely sounded good once you buttoned it back up! 👍🏼
You had me doubting myself for a second yesterday
Good job! Runs strong!
Great “how to video” 👍🏻
On a Husqvarna 372xp the flywheel nut is to be torqued to 35 Newton Meters. Is that small impact tool doing that or more?
Sometimes an impact gun is a lifesaver😃 Sometimes they can be evil🤬 excited to see how it responds to the advance!
Watch out with metal piston stops and impacts. Pistons can get damaged that way, also put a dent in one of my own but it wasnt too bad.
Good point!
Easy to tell if youve advanced to far as your saw sounds like its making popcorn..thats if the cord doesnt rip outta your hand...
If the key is not needed to secure the flywheel in place why not just remove it, especially on saws with a removable key? Also, why not use the TDC method and then mark the degrees on the flywheel?
The key is a place holder. Without it, you would need to time it anytime you remove the flywheel. In this situation, I would still need to time it again if the flywheel is removed, but on a saw where the timing isn't advanced, or even if it has a removable key that has been advanced, the key holds the position needed and you can simply put the flywheel back on and it is lined up properly.
👍
Are those fuel and oil flippy caps OEM? Could I bother you for part number?
On the 55, the floppy cap only works on the fuel tank. The oil cap is much smaller and I had to use the stock 55 cap. But on the fuel side, it is a standard Husqvarna flippy cap. Just go to Lowes or anyplace that sells Husqvarna saws and the flippy caps they sell will work. Same cap fits all the modern Rancher saws and pro Husqvarnas.
@@novicelumberjack Thanks. That's how you get a subscriber. Great content
@@stickyricky9612 Cool! Welcome aboard!
👍🆙BigGuy
Boedy if you are going to do this more times consider spendinh 25 bucks and get yourself a timing light so you get concrete timing numbers and not "kinda winging it" and no real way to see if you actually got there. Altho it can very well be accurate like that too dont get me wrong
I have a timing light, but seems like SUCH a hassle to do that. Think about it...you would need to mark out top dead center AND all the degrees up to about 30⁰, put it back together, start it, remove the recoil, hook up your timing light, and then attach a separate 12v power supply to finally get it to work. That's a hell of a lot of work.
@@novicelumberjack yea you are right, I suppose it's a bit of a hassle. Keep er' going!
Comment from me
DISCORD Server 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
If we lived close I'd show you a much easier way to do this. To much to type and seeing it is better vs something being lost in translation in a typed message.
I'd love to see how you do it!
@@novicelumberjack
Maybe I can make a vid and email you the link.
@@MrJeepfreak1972 That'd be great!
@@novicelumberjack
I'll try to explain it here first. If that makes sense, no vid needed.
I have two ways I do it actually. One is "precise", the other quick n dirty. Both work. The engine tells you if you went to far in either case. I've had one not like any advance. Popped and a wouldn't rev out. Anyway, here it goes.
First off, leave the "crankshaft is being retarded" speak out of it. You are confusing yourself and probably others. In this process think of the crankshaft as a fixed shaft and all you are doing is rotating that flywheel in relation to it. Counter clockwise as viewed from the flywheel side. It's that simple. I use a degree wheel, not Joe's electronic unit. Before removing the flywheel spin the magnets away from the coil or remove the coil so it can't move the flywheel once loose. Mark one of your fins with a thin sharpie. Read the degree wheel and write it down. Rotate the flywheel, in the direction the engine spins, the number of degrees you want. So say 6° is the desired advance and you started at 90°, @ 96° mark the saw body in line with the previously marked fin. Now remove the flywheel and file your key, whichever side needed based on its location in the flywheel or in the crankshaft. Place the flywheel back on, rotate it against the key, while holding the drill chuck on the degree wheel, and tighten the nut. Just enough to snug it. Now put the degree wheel at your original mark. In this explanation, 90°. If your marked fin is at the mark on the saw body you are @ 96° and finished except the full tightening of the flywheel nut. If not, remove and repeat the filing until the fin lines up. Then tighten the nut. I put a piston stop in and rotate against it with the flywheel to tighten it. I don't use it for the advancing process I described.
@@novicelumberjack
Now the quick n dirty. No wheel. Put a piston stop in. Rotate to it. Mark the flywheel and saw body together. Remove the flywheel and file the key. Put the flywheel back on. Check how far the marks are off after rotating against the piston stop. I shoot for 3/16"-1/4" of rotation as indicated by the misalignment of the line on the flywheel in relation to the saw body. Repeat until you achieve the 3/16" to 1/4" of flywheel advance. Its fast and works.
I hope these explanations make sense. They do in my head. 😂