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Circuit Breaker Disassembly & How It Works
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 มิ.ย. 2012
- This is a video of me taking apart a circuit breaker and trying to figure out how it works. This was a Federal Pacific 20 amp breaker, but I think the operation is similar for Square D GE Cutler Hammer etc.
i love how this is unfocused the whole way through but you still went with it
I recently stopped by a circuit breaker shop and they seemed like a chop shop. They carefully remove the rivets and have new rivets to replace them. They are able to replace tabs to adjust compatibility.
3rd Viewer 2nd like This is cool! I think I heard you wrong, the hiik end attaches to the bus bar! the screw is attached to the lead in wire and of corse the naked wire goes to Ground bus bar! Black is always Pos! White is always Com! Naked is Ground to the earth/soil! Thanx for your sacrifice of a Breaker for Visual Knowledge!!
Thanks for easy explanation of CB. Great job!
Glad you enjoyed the video, they are amazing little devices.
Bi-Metal strips expand at different rates under thermal rise & bend though separating the contacts interrupting the Circuit ( OPEN )
Thanks for the information.
I enjoy opening things up. After watching upon you opening the switch, I’m curious why my switch doesn’t eliminate the power in the off position.
Thinking doesn’t always explain the reason, because explain why, in the off position there’s still power to the outgoing wire?
damn man. focus is a real problem here.
Its good explanation thanks
I'm glad the video was helpful for you.
great video
Why does the bi-metal bend in the proper direction every time it heats? What if it bent the other way?
A bi-metal is made by stamping two different metal sheets together. Picture two playing cards back to back with each one representing a different metal. Different metals flex at different temperatures. As the load increases so does the heat on the bi-metal causing one of the two metals to flex or curve and "pull" the flip side metal with it. As it cools the other metal "pulls" it back to original position. Because of that it will always bend same way when heated and the opposite way when cooled.
You're doing it wrong. You are NOT tripping it. The bottom bi-metal has to release the catch lip at the bottom of that toggle lever, thereby allowing the wire link to swing up to the right, releasing the contact arm.
Because you have the cover off, the center bolt holding the arm is not supported straight, and is loose, allowing the arm to deflect enough to allow the wire link holding the contacts closed to 'break the knee' over top dead center, and enter the 'Off' condition.
Pulling 'upward' (vertically - away from the bolt), will probably do the same.
In operation, the trip happens when the bi-metal leaf warps downward and clears the catch on the end of the toggle, releasing the 'stiff knee', and the contact arm swings free by spring, independent of the handle.
It is clear why these are fire hazards - there is no fast trip magnetic feature.
Also, there is apparently no calibration or adjustment to the element (other than manually bending) . I don't know what the consistency of the trip setting was, leaving the factory...
[I hope it is not bad etiquette commenting on an old post, but wanted to correct misconceptions]
I’m convinced that reading the comments from others can assist others with information! TY 4 sharing 👍
The part that u say will bent rite is correct how it trips is by the spring mechanisms when the metal heat up by the amperage it will soften and the spring mechanisms will break the circuit disconnecting the shorted appliances
Wish the stupid camera would focus.