Your brother and I have one thing in common and thea is the love for the FE block. I know them well and everything in all of the 332, 352, 390 is interchangeable. The stroke is where the cubic inch comes in. There is one FE block 352 that has the heavy casting and that was the one that they used for the 427 which is the largest bore and 428 which is slightly smaller bore than the 427 but longest stroke and there are some modifications inside the block for clearance... mind you not much and very few had the main bearing with a blt on either side of the blck to help support the main journals... very few but if you find one I forget the marking spots to confirm this but those are rare and very valuable
I'm doing a 66 galaxie as we speak. I love ur videos. I dont know if I'm ready to build a engine on my own yet but very informative.. Here from Utah. If u would like to see my progress let me know . Great channel
Hell yeah me too, it's been with me for a year and I got it all running and stopping, gonna be another year before I start working on it again. I want to enjoy it a little more before it goes down
@8:50 you said it's "..two-hundred thousandths," but showed a measurement difference of two thousandths. Just got it backwards is all, but it's like fingernails on a chalkboard. Great videos. Can't wait till you get to the body
@@nuvey7939 Thank you, I always get mixed up when talking about the reading, but know in my head what it is. I didn't go back and look, but I might have meant .002 or .0002.
I’m half way through machinist school. I’ve spent a lifetime as a mechanic, and now I’m studying machining in retirement, and we spent a long time covering that. lol
@@nuvey7939 My friend Dave... I have featured several of his cars on my channel... He owns a machine shop, he has been doing it for 45 years now. I should get him to give me some lessons on speaking about my micrometer readings. I printed your reply out. It will help. Thank you again.
OMG I got parts everywhere. I need to get them from my dads and go threw them. I use to store my extra parts in his basement. There are still tons of parts there.
@@OldCarAlley Some of them are probably worth good money it would be a good idea to consider selling off the ones you are not likely to need. That would help offset the cost of your projects. I am like that with electrical/computer stuff I don't like to have to run to the store in a pinch or wait for the mailman to arrive.
@@1575murray Totally... I have a 283 Chevy, a couple manuals and a old powerglide. I have diff carriers for old Chevy's, mouldings, glass, tune up kits, carb kits, you name it, I seem to have it. Stuff I use, I keep, like the tune up kits and carb kits.
What a great Go-2 channel.. this has become. It astonishes me to see all the various tasks required to revive an old car like this. And What a car. I know from personal experience, how smooth these cars ride, so it's gonna be truly wonderful to see it hissing down the tarmac again.
Your doing a phenomenal job on this engine and have a great engine to rebuild! I have no doubt when you are finished with this project everything mechanically and also the rest of the car will be in wonderful shape when you are finished. If I were buying this car from you I would buy in complete confidence and know I have a solid old Ford! Keep up the good work. Really enjoyed this video and look forward to the next phase of this project.
..Looks like that catalog will come right in handy, & that duel reservoir is a Great Start ! (-or a better Stop anyway.) I can tell already, that with this rebuild, you will have this engine running like a sewing machine but, some stopping security in an emergency ? >Essential. Fastidiously good progress. Cheers
@@OldCarAlley That would have been quite a few since they have been produced from 1955 on. The most successful engine ever produced hands down, still being produced 64 years later.
I know you're on a budget build, however I would at minimum have the block vatted. It's usually less than $200. They pull every plug and team out every passage. Well worth the money
When I take the heads in, I will ask about the cost, and have them do the cam bearings too, if they clean the block. That block cleaning can damage them, on rare occasions. Would you just happen to have the molding for the hood... the long one down the center? I'll get with you on trim parts I need in a reply to your email.
@@williamlane9140 Need them all. What about a left door window regulator? I will try to get a list together in the next day or two, and email it to you.
Wow, that old engine is in great shape. Too bad the head had that imperfect casting that damaged the pushrod - I guess you would have to take a few points off Ford's 1966 engine assembly.
I am glad to see that it checked out so well. When you first opened it up I was concerned when I saw that sludge. Hope the transmission is just as good (and I'll bet it is.)
I guess I need to show the inside of the rocker covers again. The sludge coating was paper thin. It was where it fell of the cover, and looked thick. When I was moving them into the trunk, I poked threw and was surprised it was clean under that sludge looking stuff.
but with over sized pistions you should you could probly find a used crank in good shape that close to the small end size and a cam shaft that perfuctly good then have it soked and have new
I agree take the block in and have it dipped and cleaned. way better than you can do and worth it. Get your crank polished and you can have the shop hone the block.
I have a maximum budget. If I go over, the car docent get finished. Thats why I do all the LABOR. These engine shops don't work for free. I have done engines, with more ware, and there still running, 30 plus years later. I think the old 352 will be fine. The key is maintenance. Keeping it cool and keeping the oil changed.
@@OldCarAlley its your car you can do what you want.. I have rebuilt more engines then I can count and there are some things I never skimp on. Had a few go bad fast by cutting corners. One is not having a block tanked and the cam berings installed. Two is not having the crank cleaned and polished.
@@1gatomon I did this kind of work for a living, so why on earth would I pay someone else to do something I am more than capable of doing. I have never had a engine failure.... If I do it will be the first. Polishing the crank is exactly that, polishing. The material taken off will not even be measurable. If I just reassembled the engine with all the old parts doing nothing, it would probably run well, for a long time. I have gone threw way worse. This engine has minimal ware. A very quick hone on the bores is all it needs. The factory machining is still visible in the bores. This car will see maybe three or four thousand miles a year at most, so it will take a couple generations to ware the engine out.... provided the oil changed every couple thousand miles or every year, what ever occurs first. There are many other components on the car that will most likely ware out before the engine.
I see you got the auto krafters catalog... they have everything you need..really wish you would keep the AC unit..you can get a new condenser..you should have the block put in a vat to clean water jackets..the right way..Cheers 🍻🍻🍻🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
I got 90% of the crap out... it's always at the lowest part of the block, by the freeze plugs where the crud collects. I can wash the rest out, and save myself as few hundred dollars. I am going to clean the engine inside and out. As far as the A/C goes, the condenser is bad and the receiver/dryer will need replacing. The evaporator part is the old TXV system. If the Thermo Expansion Valve or evaporator is bad, I most likely will never find another good one. It's just plain and simply not worth the added cost of repairing it... A few hundred dollars here and there add up quick into the thousands. Thats how projects go way over budget.
i like that a/c as well. here in the southern san joaquin valley of calif, we see very hot summers weeks of 100+temps. i understand why your removing it. why clutter up that 352 beauty! keep up the neat videos!
Should be a decent rebuild, 352 family engine wasn't a high revving/wear engine, just a long stroke V-8 so it will be fine, main thing is a good no skimp valve job and be sure the cam is 100%, lobes wear out so check all dimensions
No there not.... but I just wanted to make sure there not tapered or out of round, or beyond any of the many specs in different places in the bore, and on the pistons and crank.
Your brother and I have one thing in common and thea is the love for the FE block. I know them well and everything in all of the 332, 352, 390 is interchangeable. The stroke is where the cubic inch comes in. There is one FE block 352 that has the heavy casting and that was the one that they used for the 427 which is the largest bore and 428 which is slightly smaller bore than the 427 but longest stroke and there are some modifications inside the block for clearance... mind you not much and very few had the main bearing with a blt on either side of the blck to help support the main journals... very few but if you find one I forget the marking spots to confirm this but those are rare and very valuable
I'm doing a 66 galaxie as we speak. I love ur videos. I dont know if I'm ready to build a engine on my own yet but very informative.. Here from Utah. If u would like to see my progress let me know . Great channel
I am always open to see other projects.
Hell yeah me too, it's been with me for a year and I got it all running and stopping, gonna be another year before I start working on it again. I want to enjoy it a little more before it goes down
Love the videos thanks so much for the consistency
Polish that crank !!!. Dip the engine block, will get rid of the rust in the water jackets.
@8:50 you said it's "..two-hundred thousandths," but showed a measurement difference of two thousandths. Just got it backwards is all, but it's like fingernails on a chalkboard. Great videos. Can't wait till you get to the body
.1 = Hundred Thousandths
.01 = Ten Thousandth
.001 = Thousandth
.0001 = Ten-thousandth (requires vernier micrometer)
Two-hundred thousandths is .2"
@@nuvey7939 Thank you, I always get mixed up when talking about the reading, but know in my head what it is. I didn't go back and look, but I might have meant .002 or .0002.
I’m half way through machinist school. I’ve spent a lifetime as a mechanic, and now I’m studying machining in retirement, and we spent a long time covering that. lol
@@nuvey7939 My friend Dave... I have featured several of his cars on my channel... He owns a machine shop, he has been doing it for 45 years now. I should get him to give me some lessons on speaking about my micrometer readings. I printed your reply out. It will help. Thank you again.
It's nice when you have a good original part that you need on hand like that flywheel.
OMG I got parts everywhere. I need to get them from my dads and go threw them. I use to store my extra parts in his basement. There are still tons of parts there.
@@OldCarAlley Some of them are probably worth good money it would be a good idea to consider selling off the ones you are not likely to need. That would help offset the cost of your projects. I am like that with electrical/computer stuff I don't like to have to run to the store in a pinch or wait for the mailman to arrive.
@@1575murray Totally... I have a 283 Chevy, a couple manuals and a old powerglide. I have diff carriers for old Chevy's, mouldings, glass, tune up kits, carb kits, you name it, I seem to have it. Stuff I use, I keep, like the tune up kits and carb kits.
@@OldCarAlley Those tune up kits and carb kits are priceless you probably can't even get them any more.
What a great Go-2 channel.. this has become. It astonishes me to see all the various tasks required to revive an old car like this. And What a car. I know from personal experience, how smooth these cars ride, so it's gonna be truly wonderful to see it hissing down the tarmac again.
I have to agree with the comments below about dipping the block. Nice job. I'm excited to see the car done.
What a great car! The engine is in as good shape as the bottom of the car!
I can’t wait.hope you don’t get tired of me. I love the car. Thanks
Your doing a phenomenal job on this engine and have a great engine to rebuild! I have no doubt when you are finished with this project everything mechanically and also the rest of the car will be in wonderful shape when you are finished. If I were buying this car from you I would buy in complete confidence and know I have a solid old Ford! Keep up the good work. Really enjoyed this video and look forward to the next phase of this project.
..Looks like that catalog will come right in handy, & that duel reservoir is a Great Start ! (-or a better Stop anyway.) I can tell already, that with this rebuild, you will have this engine running like a sewing machine but, some stopping security in an emergency ? >Essential. Fastidiously good progress. Cheers
Looks like an excellent candidate for a rebuild! The camshaft that came out of my 327 Chevy had two flat lobes!
Back in the day, GM had a recall on all the small blocks because of soft cams.
@@OldCarAlley That would have been quite a few since they have been produced from 1955 on.
The most successful engine ever produced hands down, still being produced 64 years later.
I know you're on a budget build, however I would at minimum have the block vatted. It's usually less than $200. They pull every plug and team out every passage. Well worth the money
When I take the heads in, I will ask about the cost, and have them do the cam bearings too, if they clean the block. That block cleaning can damage them, on rare occasions.
Would you just happen to have the molding for the hood... the long one down the center? I'll get with you on trim parts I need in a reply to your email.
@@OldCarAlley I do have that piece. It's immaculate. I have only one door handle. I have the convertible header piece also. Like new
@@williamlane9140 Need them all. What about a left door window regulator? I will try to get a list together in the next day or two, and email it to you.
I'm not sure what you need for the window. I have complete systems. Shoot me an email with your phone number. It's easier that way
Another interesting video...keep them coming and keep up the good work
Wow, that old engine is in great shape. Too bad the head had that imperfect casting that damaged the pushrod - I guess you would have to take a few points off Ford's 1966 engine assembly.
I am glad to see that it checked out so well. When you first opened it up I was concerned when I saw that sludge. Hope the transmission is just as good (and I'll bet it is.)
I guess I need to show the inside of the rocker covers again. The sludge coating was paper thin. It was where it fell of the cover, and looked thick. When I was moving them into the trunk, I poked threw and was surprised it was clean under that sludge looking stuff.
but with over sized pistions you should you could probly find a used crank in good shape that close to the small end size and a cam shaft that perfuctly good then have it soked and have new
I agree take the block in and have it dipped and cleaned. way better than you can do and worth it. Get your crank polished and you can have the shop hone the block.
I have a maximum budget. If I go over, the car docent get finished. Thats why I do all the LABOR. These engine shops don't work for free. I have done engines, with more ware, and there still running, 30 plus years later. I think the old 352 will be fine. The key is maintenance. Keeping it cool and keeping the oil changed.
@@OldCarAlley its your car you can do what you want.. I have rebuilt more engines then I can count and there are some things I never skimp on. Had a few go bad fast by cutting corners. One is not having a block tanked and the cam berings installed. Two is not having the crank cleaned and polished.
@@1gatomon I did this kind of work for a living, so why on earth would I pay someone else to do something I am more than capable of doing. I have never had a engine failure.... If I do it will be the first. Polishing the crank is exactly that, polishing. The material taken off will not even be measurable. If I just reassembled the engine with all the old parts doing nothing, it would probably run well, for a long time. I have gone threw way worse. This engine has minimal ware. A very quick hone on the bores is all it needs. The factory machining is still visible in the bores. This car will see maybe three or four thousand miles a year at most, so it will take a couple generations to ware the engine out.... provided the oil changed every couple thousand miles or every year, what ever occurs first. There are many other components on the car that will most likely ware out before the engine.
you may have to put a high volume oil pump
watching all spec hope mine that close try keep out of machine shop
It had almost zero ware..... was looked after, and is kinda low milage.
👍😎🇺🇸
need to get some bug spay for those crickets
I sprayed one of them with brakeclean. Could not find the other one.
every one wants you to vat the blk.What do you think? Again nice vid nice progject nice way to unwind!!
We will see... I can clean it just as good. I try to do everything myself. That helps keep the budget from going way over the value of the car.
I see you got the auto krafters catalog... they have everything you need..really wish you would keep the AC unit..you can get a new condenser..you should have the block put in a vat to clean water jackets..the right way..Cheers 🍻🍻🍻🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
I got 90% of the crap out... it's always at the lowest part of the block, by the freeze plugs where the crud collects. I can wash the rest out, and save myself as few hundred dollars. I am going to clean the engine inside and out.
As far as the A/C goes, the condenser is bad and the receiver/dryer will need replacing. The evaporator part is the old TXV system. If the Thermo Expansion Valve or evaporator is bad, I most likely will never find another good one. It's just plain and simply not worth the added cost of repairing it...
A few hundred dollars here and there add up quick into the thousands. Thats how projects go way over budget.
i like that a/c as well. here in the southern san joaquin valley of calif, we see very hot summers weeks of 100+temps. i understand why your removing it. why clutter up that 352 beauty! keep up the neat videos!
Should be a decent rebuild, 352 family engine wasn't a high revving/wear engine, just a long stroke V-8 so it will be fine, main thing is a good no skimp valve job and be sure the cam is 100%, lobes wear out so check all dimensions
The heads are out getting done to run unleaded gas... they will be better than new. I am installing a new camshaft and valve lifters.
Good choice, I think you need 'special' oil now containing ZINC for cam break in, not like the old days
@@zxtenn That might be a great idea. I will try to get some.
What manual did you use for specs?
Interesting but how many times do you need to measure those cylinder bores! They aren’t going to change!
No there not.... but I just wanted to make sure there not tapered or out of round, or beyond any of the many specs in different places in the bore, and on the pistons and crank.
Old Car Alley I know. It’ll be a great engine when you’re done!
I've not watched but the last two videos you put out. But I'm wondering are you sure that's a 352? It could be a 390.
It's a 352, I measured the bore.
when you plastic gage it you know
Could be a miss print in the book, regarding the crankshaft.
The micrometer was not calibrated. It ended up being exactly what it was suppose to be, after correcting the micrometer....
@@OldCarAlley Great! I enjoy your videos very much.
Where's your other cars
In my dads garage.
Once you’ve explained something, move on. No need to explain the tolerances and what you’re going to do about it 4 times.