Loved this. Straight simple answers. No beating around the bush, some long history lesson everyone knows, and no excessive use of technical terms. You quickly explained what they meant and what it did. Thanks for uploading this!
@@Schmidt54 lol I didn't even know that was a rule. I like the color blue, I also like button up shirts. Where I live that leaves me with plaid as the only option. :D
@@cartercustoms4600 Well, me too, I got 3 blue plaid shirts and I never worked with metal. So I am an impostor, only protected by the anonymity of the internet. ;-)
Gold is for the mistress, silver for the maid Copper for the craftsman, cunning at his trade. "Good!" said the Baron, sitting in his hall, "But Iron, Cold Iron, is master of them all."
As a extremely noob want to be blacksmith/bladesmith I found both the videos with Adam to be really informative and helpful. Thanks you both for sharing.
This was pretty useful for me because I watch a lot of your videos where you just briefly mention the type of steel of the knife, sword, whatever you're reviewing and I'm really a very casual fan, I'm not really interested in buying or using these weapons, and I wasn't curious enough to research this stuff for myself but it's still useful to know.
Krystof Dayne “Casual fan... not interested in buying… not interested in using… Not curious enough to research…“ I don’t think “useful to know“ means what you think it means 🤔
@@bradl8887 Well, first of all, it can still be useful knowledge in the sense that I can use it to understand his videos better. But second of all, and more importantly, piss of about semantics here, honestly. Maybe "useful" is not the exact right term I wanted to use here but after all, English is only my fourth language... So I'm guessing, and this is an assumption, that you're kinda ticked off by the mere existence of the sort of casuals fans like myself, although I would guess people like myself are not an unsubstantial part of Skall's subscriber base. If that's not the case, you're actually only ticked off because of semantics. Either way, to reiterate, piss off.
C: "The riddle... of steel." TD: "Yes! You know what it is don't you boy. Shall I tell you? It's the least I can do. Steel isn't strong boy, flesh is stronger! Look around you. There, on the rocks; that beautiful girl. Come to me my child... That is strength boy! That is power! What is steel compared to the hand that wields it? Look at the strength in your body, the desire in your heart, I gave you this! Such a waste. Contemplate this on the tree of woe. Crucify him!"
Thanks for yet another awesome video Skall!!! While I am no blacksmith, I am actually able to follow your rather technical discussion and already understand a good deal of what you discussed. :) My modern take on a wakizashi has an extended grip allowing me to use two hands for better control in my old age. I have my 1095 KaBar at roughly 57 rockwell with the extended 9" blade and composite handle for most hard use cutting tasks. It can cut through a steel belted radial tire and after a trip to the strop is still shaving sharp. I've had it several years and never needed to sharpen, only strop it. Then I have a 7cr17 MoV bladed stainless bowie that I tend to use in the kitchen even though I bought it for field food prep. It's somewhere in the low to mid 50's rockwell. I have my 'old faithful' Buck 119 pattern in 420 stainless. The 420 requires the most sharpening maintenance but is also the easiest blade to resharpen. Then there's my Kukri that gets most of it's use chipping up Mesquite branches into little bits to add to my gas grill for that little extra Mesquite flavor. the Windlass ad said 'high carbon steel' but did not give the specs. I would guess it falls somewhere in the 1070 to 1085 range as it's cut more Mesquite branches than I can count and that bastard is still shaving sharp! Most of my general purpose blades are 440 stainless, AUS-8, 7cr17 or better. I've been looking at some new blades in D-2 tool steel which I didn't hear either of you mention. I have no practical experience using D-2 so I was hoping to hear more about it. Maybe next time. :) I heard you mention differential hardening which I used to think was just for katana swords. However, I've seen quite a few videos of smiths using clay binding and other methods of differential heat treat and it looks hard to do but has rewarding results. In fact, I think if I were to ever spend more than $100 on a blade it would be differentially heat treated rather than the hard steel wrapped and forge welded in mild steel San Mai technigue. Any input you have on these thoughts are greatly appreciated. Thanks again! :)
You can’t go wrong with 5160 spring steel. The stuff’s pretty much indestructible. It will always spring back to true, hence the name spring steel. Just make sure to keep a wire brush handy as it will rust if not oiled regularly.
I don’t wanna be the Ackchyually guy, but spring steel is more corrosion resistant than most, other than stainless. Spring steel needs little to almost no maintenance.
@@someonenotfunny9823 actually.... lol. spring steel requires maintenance dude-know why coil springs are all coated? because spring steel rusts. "spring steel" only means that the steel has sufficient carbon content where it can be hardened and then tempered into a spring. its not more complex than that.
@@fettmaneiii4439 While you are correct in that it requires maintenance, it does require much less maintenance than that of other steels, particularly when comparing it to high carbon steels. What also sets it apart from the competition is its combination of manganese, sulfur and silicone content, giving it its unique properties which allow it to be called spring steel in the first place. Spring steel is also used in aircraft landing gear and other heavy duty, long lasting equipment, and its used there for a reason, its why they don't just coat and temper the other metals in its place. Not to say that spring steel is the best katana metal, it just usually fits the prerequisites of durability of what most people want from their longer blades, especially with the added bonus of chromium on the 5160 variant of spring steel, although a little rarer for swordsmiths however. It is a little more complicated than you give credit i'm afraid.
He speak fast lol i had a bit of trouble to follow along but English is not my base language. But i like the way he seem passionate about what's he's talking about
Facts. Like, if he was telling me about the quality of the steel that was used in the axe that's about to behead me...I feel like I'd be pretty comfortable.
The one video of the many I've seen that does not go into "steel voodoo" and superstition...straight facts from the get go...with the right added visuals and demo item...this would be the golden standard...TYVM!!! very informative no hype!!!
Thanks for making this video! I like super high carbide knife steels, so seeing a swordsmith explain their priorities when selecting steel is a different world for me. I also like the anecdote about historical steel vs modern steel.
It’s actually quite simple. Blades from 1-4 inches,S35VN,S30VN,for edge retention and decent durability. Blades 5-8 inches,1055,AUS10,5160 for durability,ease of sharpening. Blades 8-14 inches 1095,1090,1085,1080,5160,52100 all spring tempered for toughness,durability,edge retention,ease of sharpening. Swords ⚔️ would be similar but it depends on what style it is and of course spring tempered as well. “Whatever a little knife can do a big can do to but not in reverse” Lynn Thompson Coldsteel.
I like tool steel, and spring steel. Keep in mind, I don't even own a set of Fullers any more, and I never had enough of an operation, or income to buy steel. I worked with what I could get, which ment scrapping. Leaf springs, files, drill bits, and so forth. That's what I always worked with. If you're just getting started, these are great cheap options to Practice with. Get a good set of Fullers first. (Rebar sucks, it doesn't take a decent temper. I know, it's cheap-to-free, but don't use it. Raw iron is better for blades.)
@@Hypersteel-4340 Scrap Steel. That's what I was talking about, for practice. How do you even tell the difference between tool steels, Rockwell test? Whatever you can get your hands on, if you can afford bulk steel, then buy it. It really depends on what you're making.
I was directed here while binging videos om S&W K-frames, as I am planning to buy either a classic 19 or 66. Sometimes the algorithm actually works for you rather than against you, even when it comes to weapon videos.
Yes thank you!!!! Finally, I knew I wasnt wrong. And that's why 5160 has always been my favorite steel. Great video, highly informative. And extremely helpful. 100 percent agree with everything U guys said. cant beat affordable, and highly durable well forged 5160. It is the best value for your money. since I bought my darksword medieval knight bastard sword last year, and seen a tfw weapon in action, I have been so impressed with 5160 steel. Short story- I made mistake and bought 4 swords from darksword armory website. and I paid extra for sharpening services from darksword armory website also. Spent a ton of money and when the 1st 2 came in, I sent ranting email, only For them to tell me it past the paper test hahaha, anyway long story short, I had to re sharpen all 4 swords I ordered from darksword, by myself. Scratched my favorite one,the bastard, made it too sharp, but did very well on other 3. that steel though. holy crap it took forever with accusharp, and sandpaper but I sharpened all 4(bastard, g.messer,waylander,14 century medieval knights sword-wide blade with profile tapering to a more acute tip has fuller length 3/4 of the blade) to a razor sharp edge with no scratches. Cant believe I was able to do that without vice grip and without scratching them. but after I sharpened that sword properly, it has been my favorite sword I own. I have accidentally smacked against solid wood posts many times, and concrete, dropped it so many times, I have intentionally and unintentionally beat the hell out of that sword for a year and, nothing. That 5160 Blade absorbs shock, resists corrosion and holds its edge like no other blade I own. Love 5160. Love darksword blades(as long as they're sharpened from Kult of athena) I reccomend traditional Filipino weapons of course with the 5160/d2 tool steel mix. Which is the best mix I've seen yet for the price. D2 is the Same steel on my kleins journey linemen pliers(im electrician). So u will be satisfied 5160/d2 tfw weapon. I reccomend both tfw qnd dsa(from koa) for beautiful high quality "affordable" blades that will last forever. Just make sure to order darksword swords from kult of Athena, never order sword off darksword website. Never order their sharpening services. Just look at website for products,then leave website and go over to kult of athena to check for darksword sword availability. I had to find that out the hard way. Took me 5 purchases and many angry emails to darksword before I realized they're not gonna change the quality of sharpening services and go to k.o.a
"I could go on for a while..." at 8m mark. The plight of all blacksmiths. I can't tell you how many people ask a question and I'm like, well I hope you know what your getting yourself into....grab a chair, a drink, and probably a few days worth of food. We are going to be here a while.... Then about 20 minutes later I'm asked to stop because now their head hurts. Steel, so simple, yet so complex. It really is an amazing alloy.
A Blacksmith I know uses mostly leaf springs for blades,quenched in oil. As far as I've seen it's pretty up there. Many files will slide on it,while it being somewhat flexible, hard to chip,or brake.
After lots of consideration, I've come to the realization that it really depends on blades geometry and while there are some over all best steels they all have some trade offs that can make one better over the other. And it gets quite complex. Given there are lots of variables. And depends entirely on if it's spring tempered and hardened or only edge hardened. Intended targets also make use of it.
No mention of the glorious 420 J2, comprised of roughly 40% chromium, 40% fingernail polish and 20% emo teenager tears when they realise their fancy new fantasy sword can't really be sharpened.
@@MrZetor It’s not that it can’t be sharpened, but it will have very poor edge stability if you do sharpen it. Most things can be sharpened if you have the right tools and patience, but not all things are meant to be.
Sounds like it should be a good metal for a katana, especially if heat treated appropriately for the intended use. I wouldn't use 1060 for fighting knights in plate armor!
You’re so goddamn valid Skall :,)) Thank you so much for all this high quality content and providing such amazing knowledge and insight into a subject that you’re passionate about, as are we:) bless yah man.
Hi Skall I am a long time fan of your channel and your vodeos have taught me a lot about medieval weapons amd fighting. I am myself looking to get into medieval arms but i am limeted to a small budget (300-400€) and know many people with the same problem. So i wanted to aks you if you could make a series of videos containig 3-5 budget weaposn of each “category“ (1h swords, 2h swords, crossbows,...). You dont need to have personal experience with the weapon i think your general knowledge and judgement would be enough. Thank you for reading this wether you pick up my request or not. Greetings from Germany
Juergen Stunz have you looked up HEMA groups on social media? That would be your best bet for help with what you can buy and own in Germany, most people start with wooden weapons.
Good video. Maybe a follow up some time dealing with some of the more specific-use steels like tool steels and what-not? Some of them can make awesome swords.
To be honest S30V was a huge letdown to me. Sure it stays "sharp" a lot longer but only if you use the word loosely. It loses it's fine razor edge almost immediately so there isn't much of a point going to super high grits when sharpening it. Unless you just want to spend ages polishing it for the looks because it's also one of the hardest steels to sharpen and polish.
"Sure they can corrode if you neglect them." Don't. Take care of your steel, and it will take care of you. If you just want something pretty to hang on your wall, Stainless is fine for that. However, if you want to Work it (Blacksmithy, not simple Stock Removal) different kinds of stainless can be more difficult to fold, hammer weld, and temper, depending on the alloy. That's something to keep in mind, carbon steel is a lot easier to anneal, and re-temper when you're done.
Hey, honestly it's still a bit complicated for me so i stay with the thinking carbon steel for cutting some tatami mat bottle etc and if there is a burglar and stainless steel for decorating! You will die laughing if u see my first "sword" i bought 🤣 united cutlery jungle toothpick aus-6 stainless steel that shit is so dangerous for the user it cut but it look like it would break so fucking easily and kill u in the process 😄
Great video! It would be fun to see what the outcome would be if you went all scientific about it and designed the optimal sword using whatever modern technology and materials are (even remotely) available today.
I have worked with edged and blunt weapons of all kinds all my life since the 70's, only had one knife break while I was chopping a 2x4 which was a Buck brand fixed blade hunting knife as an adult in the late 90's. As a child I didn't know or understand edge alignment while chopping down trees until I basically learned myself after years of doing it. A little boy dropping a big tree felt kind of powerful to know I could move an object that large which sometimes took me chopping most of a day with my small bowie knife. Just saying I have had every kind of knife from cheap stainless knives from Taiwan to expensive German forest daggers. The same different imagined worth that other had on axes, swords, spears, bows, maces, machetes, you name it I have owned it however I have never bought a weapon for a thousand dollars or more. To me that is too pretentious when I have bought weapons for two hundred dollars that functioned beyond perfectly, trust me I test each one to the max! I really would love for a TH-cam sword expert to watch the videos of the guy who makes titanium edged weapons using 3 types of welded titanium! The cuts he does on large trees makes it look like his weapons are magical (which of course they are not) even when compared to the best swords and axes that anyone has ever made. Trust me this has been my passion for 40 years and I am waiting for a super alloy that can out function metals that are brand new and especially those ancient metals that everyone cling to just to be historical. Once this happens maybe melee weapons will make a comeback when dealing with close in combat such as room clearing observing the twenty foot rule as you know, might be extended or silent 'purposes' in military operations.
Don't forget that 5160 was a popular steel for leaf springs on older trucks. So you can get it real cheap if you're willing to do a bit of extra pounding...
@@fallenstudent1103true you can get totally crap demascus steel,even the original demascus recipe made hundred of years ago is not that great compared to modern steels tho it was probably the best back then
I'm trying to get a better understanding of the differences between the steel composition of bell knives for a bell knife skiver used in leather work. Nippy makes a 301A bell knife for the international market. This is composed of Japanese SKS51 steel (perhaps unhardened). For its domestic market, Nippy makes the 301 and the 301N, which are both made of hardened German steel, the 301N being harder than the 301. Fortuna, a German company, makes bell knives of only hardened German steel, a Type-S and a Type-K, the latter being more hardened than the former. It seems that the only bell knife worth considering is one made of hardened German steel.
Ive found a site selling custom blades ranging from 1045 to tool steel forget all the numbers and everything else but basically the ones the site say are best for heavy cutting is the tool steel and springsteel.
I would love a video discussing titanium swords and potential titanium alloys to create an extremely hard/shap edge that is also more immune to snapping than any iron alloy could possibly be.
Like I said, titanium alloys. Everyone knows elemental titanium is inferior to hardened steel. What I fear nobody has ever even tried is making alloys with titanium, or even new forging techniques to harden a titanium sword's edge. I think there's a lot of potential for new sword materials that simply aren't being explored because people are just too comfortable with steel. It's also kind of irresponsible to claim steel is the best material for a sword blade, for the reasons I just listed.
Check out chandler he black smithed some titanium. Was interesting becuase even heated glowing red you could see the hammer blows where not moving the metal much. The one he had made a decent blade if i remember. Also in alot of planes the pilots cockpit is encased in titanuim because it can be made into decent armor. Also check out the cold war subs made from a vandium aluminum alloy. Was the only way to get aluminum strong enough to break ice.
Well, I was researching swords that you can buy in US for long time enough that I finally understood that it is the best for money and quality (not the looks) to go to the point I started from - order from Russia. Their steel swords are always battle ready (cause they use it widely for buhurts and full contact duels), always 1065 and 50hrc, and price depends purely on look and size.
@@GlowingSpamraam It depends on the mass and velocity of the bullet you want to stop. Defeating a 0.32 ACP pistol bullet is much easier than defeating 0.50 BMG.
“Ballistic” Those steels are tool steels used for mining, like a drill bit for rock or excavator bucket teeth (which just the core of the tooth is “Abrasion-Resistant-Rating”) Most military Units issue Multilayer ceramic plates which is MUCH lighter but crumbles.
@@randybowen4675 mmm. I was looking more for more alloy composition but thanks anyway. In America commercially available ballistic plates and shields are sold made of that steel. for example of those being used in ballistics look up Demolition Ranch's "AR500 Armor Torture Test" or other vids with such steels in the title.
I have a custom fighting knife that’s worked like a champ through a deployment made of S35VN CPM. It cost me $330 and it’s only about “7 overall length. I can’t imagine what a sword made of the same metal would cost.
Do you guys have a vid on steel care for those types that are subject to a lot of rusting and for edge retention of softer less rusting steel...for farm tools and blades kind of type???
Very well explained after 2 years of hobby blade and knifemaking pattern welding I got a little idea what is going on in the steel universe I did make something very good but I still have to learn very very much . Like he said it depends so much on the right way of heat treatment you can have the best steel in the world and still mess it up easily.
Thanks Gentlemen. Great info'! Question: I am hooked on T10 clay temper for gorgeous Hamons and general nastiness and 9260 for flex., How are these two steels rate on your list of quality for doing damage? You also made me rethink the 1060 that I have and will now take it to the back yard and damage some tree limbs. Much more affordable.
Two questions, really. 1, what's a good way of gauging how good damascus/pattern welded steels like what Alec Steele generally makes are for swords and knives? 2, if I have both kitchen knives and EDC knives, which produces a better edge when used by a newbie; whetstones or belt grinders like the Work Sharp you use?
this is some content i'v been searching for. i'v started getting involved by fixing and modifying the knives, axe blades, ect. i had. recently i worked on some custom blades made from random material that i'v found around and quite satisfied with the results but working on cold metal began to seem like hours of grinding and waste of good metal so i really want to try smithing (black smithing has always been kind of a wet dream for me anyway) the thing is, i dont really know what to use as an anvil. any advice on obtaining an anvil with an ok price/quality rate would be much appreciated
Anvils of high quality steel are of high price 7 to 10+ $ per pound + shipping and shipping is expensive. Old anvils in need of some repair quite often are in the 4 to 8$ per lb. Down to cast iron which is not very good at all for hot steel working or cold steel working but are in the 1 to 2$ per pound range. Often you can find light anvils made of railroad tracks. They are medium good quality. Next is what it know as an A.S.O. anvil shaped object. Honestly this is the best value for the $ if you want to get started on the cheaper side. If you can find a steel object that's 100 to 400 lbs and is or can be made to be a few inches thick on top and at least a few inches long...u should be golden to start. If your going to weld stuff together to make an A.S.O. the best way is to get it at least full red hot w a rosebud torch and solid weld tye entire surface not just around the edges then wrap it in heavy insulation and let it kuul slowly. Welding around the outside traps air between the layers and deadened the surface from rebound. You want lots of rebound. 1in steel bearing should rebound 10 to 11 inches of dropped from 12 inches. Rebound means the anvil face is doing 80 to 90 % as much work as the hammer. In some cases if your a welder or know a welder steel can be welded with hard facing rods then ground flat. $$ in that too. Looking on line for anvils can be good and shocking too Hope this helps at least some Blessed days ya'll, Crawford out
@@danielcrawford7315 thanks for the tips, i'd also ask what kind of steel to search for to make an good a.s.o. im all for making useful stuff out of scrap material, i'v heard pieces of old rail road tracks are quite good as you said but they are not easy to find.
@@some1orno1 anything big and heavy lol. I hear most people talk about going to scrap yards and ask for cut offs or big stuff. Even mild steel can work however you do have to touch up the face more often. That said if you could find 4130 or 4360 it would be prime. Personally I am going to use the forks from an industrial loader. As I understand it's a higher carbon boron infused steel, for sure tough stuff with good flexibility and wear resistance. Mine are from rubber tire loaders like John Deere 644 and Cat 950. Luck would have it I work for a drilling rig moving company so we have some broke ones they let me have. Now I just have to cut them and weld them. They are 8in wide 3in thick and 8ft long b4 the elbow bend n 4ft above. Wishing you the best of luck in your ventures. Blessed days sirSir, Crawford out
@@some1orno1 , of you do use rail iron...make sure you dont just pick it up off the rail right of way...if caught they will prosecute you! Touchy farts. Lol. If you can its extremely helpful to add weld in plates on either side of the upright to add mass but also to reinforce the upright as it reduces web flex. Also heard of guys welding plates of big truck springs on top of the track itself, again adding mass but more over giving you a wider harder surface for stricking on. Lots of people on TH-cam have done videos on it. In the end the bigger and heavier it is the better for you to use. Hope that helps at least some! Blessed days sirSir, Crawford out
Loved this. Straight simple answers. No beating around the bush, some long history lesson everyone knows, and no excessive use of technical terms. You quickly explained what they meant and what it did. Thanks for uploading this!
Same
"Once upon a time" : >
just kidding
@@Leftyotism hehe :3
Skyforge Steel, of course!
Gods be praised
Best steel in all of skyrim
May Kodlak Whitemane watch over us
Someone stole my sweet roll but I tracked them down and beheaded them with my skyforge steel axe
@@andrewp8284 and threw them in the Skyforge?
Red plaid = woodworker, lumberjack
Blue plaid = metalworker, smith
Green Plaid = Outdoorsman guide
LMAO I'm a blacksmith, just looked down. Legit wearing a blue plaid shirt today, now that is funny.
@@cartercustoms4600 Of course. You adhere to the rule. How else are people gonna recognize you?! ;-)
@@Schmidt54 lol I didn't even know that was a rule. I like the color blue, I also like button up shirts. Where I live that leaves me with plaid as the only option. :D
@@cartercustoms4600 Well, me too, I got 3 blue plaid shirts and I never worked with metal. So I am an impostor, only protected by the anonymity of the internet. ;-)
Gold is for the mistress, silver for the maid
Copper for the craftsman, cunning at his trade.
"Good!" said the Baron, sitting in his hall,
"But Iron, Cold Iron, is master of them all."
J.T iron is best element
Irons not great of course there are ferrous metals that are great but just iron is shit.
Where does that come from?
@@PlanetHell67 I think it's from the medieval period. Honestly, though, I can't remember.
@@TheWoodsman661 holy shit 2yrs ago and u recommented bravo 🙌🏼
Whatever you need. by Ysmir if it's simple and strong, I can forge it.
I need 600 iron daggers.
@@HisaoNakaii i need 6000 LEAD daggers
• I need Skyforge Steel Greatsword.
• Are you a companion ?
*hands you a s125v billet on the table*
I love that anytime I search swords, daggers, axes basically any old melee weapons, TH-cam and Google always shows me your videos first.
As a extremely noob want to be blacksmith/bladesmith I found both the videos with Adam to be really informative and helpful. Thanks you both for sharing.
This was pretty useful for me because I watch a lot of your videos where you just briefly mention the type of steel of the knife, sword, whatever you're reviewing and I'm really a very casual fan, I'm not really interested in buying or using these weapons, and I wasn't curious enough to research this stuff for myself but it's still useful to know.
Krystof Dayne “Casual fan... not interested in buying… not interested in using… Not curious enough to research…“
I don’t think “useful to know“ means what you think it means 🤔
@@bradl8887 Well, first of all, it can still be useful knowledge in the sense that I can use it to understand his videos better. But second of all, and more importantly, piss of about semantics here, honestly. Maybe "useful" is not the exact right term I wanted to use here but after all, English is only my fourth language... So I'm guessing, and this is an assumption, that you're kinda ticked off by the mere existence of the sort of casuals fans like myself, although I would guess people like myself are not an unsubstantial part of Skall's subscriber base. If that's not the case, you're actually only ticked off because of semantics. Either way, to reiterate, piss off.
Excellent video, really goes to show how a blacksmith is a materials scientist. Thank you for this.
C: "The riddle... of steel."
TD: "Yes! You know what it is don't you boy. Shall I tell you? It's the least I can do. Steel isn't strong boy, flesh is stronger! Look around you. There, on the rocks; that beautiful girl. Come to me my child... That is strength boy! That is power! What is steel compared to the hand that wields it? Look at the strength in your body, the desire in your heart, I gave you this! Such a waste. Contemplate this on the tree of woe. Crucify him!"
Was that from Conan the barbarian?
@@rachelflamestoker7129 it indeed is.
Thanks for quoting one of my favorite scenes my dude
Been a while since I watched that movie...
Huh. Never thought id see a conan quote
Our daddy taught us not to be ashamed of our steels
Especially since they're of such a good carbon content and all
Yeah, I see that. Your daddy gave ya good advice.
It gets bigger when I hammer it.
Oh shit I'm sorry
@@ARTEMISXIX MMMMMmmmmm~
Well my daddy taught me a few things too like uuh, how not to break the hammer by using someone else's mouth.
Thanks for yet another awesome video Skall!!! While I am no blacksmith, I am actually able to follow your rather technical discussion and already understand a good deal of what you discussed. :) My modern take on a wakizashi has an extended grip allowing me to use two hands for better control in my old age. I have my 1095 KaBar at roughly 57 rockwell with the extended 9" blade and composite handle for most hard use cutting tasks. It can cut through a steel belted radial tire and after a trip to the strop is still shaving sharp. I've had it several years and never needed to sharpen, only strop it. Then I have a 7cr17 MoV bladed stainless bowie that I tend to use in the kitchen even though I bought it for field food prep. It's somewhere in the low to mid 50's rockwell. I have my 'old faithful' Buck 119 pattern in 420 stainless. The 420 requires the most sharpening maintenance but is also the easiest blade to resharpen. Then there's my Kukri that gets most of it's use chipping up Mesquite branches into little bits to add to my gas grill for that little extra Mesquite flavor. the Windlass ad said 'high carbon steel' but did not give the specs. I would guess it falls somewhere in the 1070 to 1085 range as it's cut more Mesquite branches than I can count and that bastard is still shaving sharp! Most of my general purpose blades are 440 stainless, AUS-8, 7cr17 or better. I've been looking at some new blades in D-2 tool steel which I didn't hear either of you mention. I have no practical experience using D-2 so I was hoping to hear more about it. Maybe next time. :) I heard you mention differential hardening which I used to think was just for katana swords. However, I've seen quite a few videos of smiths using clay binding and other methods of differential heat treat and it looks hard to do but has rewarding results. In fact, I think if I were to ever spend more than $100 on a blade it would be differentially heat treated rather than the hard steel wrapped and forge welded in mild steel San Mai technigue. Any input you have on these thoughts are greatly appreciated. Thanks again! :)
You can’t go wrong with 5160 spring steel. The stuff’s pretty much indestructible. It will always spring back to true, hence the name spring steel. Just make sure to keep a wire brush handy as it will rust if not oiled regularly.
Is 5160 spring steel number one or are there any other that can top it?
I don’t wanna be the Ackchyually guy, but spring steel is more corrosion resistant than most, other than stainless. Spring steel needs little to almost no maintenance.
@@someonenotfunny9823 actually.... lol. spring steel requires maintenance dude-know why coil springs are all coated? because spring steel rusts. "spring steel" only means that the steel has sufficient carbon content where it can be hardened and then tempered into a spring. its not more complex than that.
@@fettmaneiii4439 While you are correct in that it requires maintenance, it does require much less maintenance than that of other steels, particularly when comparing it to high carbon steels. What also sets it apart from the competition is its combination of manganese, sulfur and silicone content, giving it its unique properties which allow it to be called spring steel in the first place. Spring steel is also used in aircraft landing gear and other heavy duty, long lasting equipment, and its used there for a reason, its why they don't just coat and temper the other metals in its place. Not to say that spring steel is the best katana metal, it just usually fits the prerequisites of durability of what most people want from their longer blades, especially with the added bonus of chromium on the 5160 variant of spring steel, although a little rarer for swordsmiths however. It is a little more complicated than you give credit i'm afraid.
6150 better cause it has vanadium in it
These are the sorts of videos I like seeing. They help buyers navigate the dire straights of quality versus budget. Awesome job!
This one video taught me more about steel than I've ever known.
I love this chatting with Adam. More of that. He is an awesome guest and his knowledge is great supplement to your channel 💪😎
Great video guys I’m a metallurgist and your right about the steels your talking about , I love 5160 Steel and 9260 steel .
How would you properly temper 1095 for say a battle ready gladius style blade 18" or so
If they were to touch their ponytails the energy that would come from it would destroy the universe
Lol
Or just get tangled which wud b just as awesome 😏
I love these kind of videos
Adam's got a very pleasant voice
Are you royalty
He speak fast lol i had a bit of trouble to follow along but English is not my base language. But i like the way he seem passionate about what's he's talking about
Facts. Like, if he was telling me about the quality of the steel that was used in the axe that's about to behead me...I feel like I'd be pretty comfortable.
Please have Adam back for future videos.
I was expecting worse of an explanation. Pleasantly surprised for a quick overview.
I was really looking for a video like this,thanks.
A very enjoyable video. I could have easily listened to Adam talk for an hour more.
The kind of steel that ends them rightly.
I tried to end myself rightly last night.
What about making some pommels then melting them to make a pommel sword that would be the sword that have been ended rightly.
@@purplehaze2358 glad to see you failed and are still amongst the living.
@@draxxsklounst6595 *N O T F O R L O N G*
@@purplehaze2358 well if you see Tom Petty, tell him I said hi.
5160 spring steel is my absolute favorite for large choppers and medium sized swords. It's affordable and very, very tough.
The one video of the many I've seen that does not go into "steel voodoo" and superstition...straight facts from the get go...with the right added visuals and demo item...this would be the golden standard...TYVM!!! very informative no hype!!!
It was great to hear from Adam. I'm hoping to better understand steel when used for hand tools, such as axe and adze.
A swordsman and a blacksmith sit down to make a video...
That sounds like the beginning of a joke tbh...
As underrated as it goes
Could be a porno if you ask me
What could the punchline be?
Answer: they both said fuck that and went to the pub!
😂
A swordsman and a blacksmith sit down to make a video
Swordman says he's a metal fan
Blacksmith asks "which one?"
*BA DUM TSSS*
A swordsman and a blacksmith sit down to make a video
Blacksmith says to the swordsman "Wow, you're looking quite sharp"
*BA DUM TSSS*
These videos are fantastic! Could listen to him talk for hours
Thanks for making this video! I like super high carbide knife steels, so seeing a swordsmith explain their priorities when selecting steel is a different world for me. I also like the anecdote about historical steel vs modern steel.
You guys really are on the same wavelengh. You even finish each othe sentences. That must be the love of swords.
Quality talk with clearly an expert! Awesome
finally asked for this during a live stream and have been waiting since thx for listening to your community and being a good content creator
It’s actually quite simple. Blades from 1-4 inches,S35VN,S30VN,for edge retention and decent durability. Blades 5-8 inches,1055,AUS10,5160 for durability,ease of sharpening. Blades 8-14 inches 1095,1090,1085,1080,5160,52100 all spring tempered for toughness,durability,edge retention,ease of sharpening. Swords ⚔️ would be similar but it depends on what style it is and of course spring tempered as well. “Whatever a little knife can do a big can do to but not in reverse” Lynn Thompson Coldsteel.
he was sooo nervous and yet he did a great job
Thanks for the info! Helped me make a decision on a sword for my son.
I like tool steel, and spring steel. Keep in mind, I don't even own a set of Fullers any more, and I never had enough of an operation, or income to buy steel. I worked with what I could get, which ment scrapping. Leaf springs, files, drill bits, and so forth. That's what I always worked with. If you're just getting started, these are great cheap options to Practice with. Get a good set of Fullers first. (Rebar sucks, it doesn't take a decent temper. I know, it's cheap-to-free, but don't use it. Raw iron is better for blades.)
L6 tool steel or 5160 steel? I want to know your opinion please.😇😇😇😶😶
@@Hypersteel-4340 Scrap Steel. That's what I was talking about, for practice. How do you even tell the difference between tool steels, Rockwell test? Whatever you can get your hands on, if you can afford bulk steel, then buy it. It really depends on what you're making.
4:50 I love that he assumes I've been isekaid and not just fing around in the back yard.
I was directed here while binging videos om S&W K-frames, as I am planning to buy either a classic 19 or 66. Sometimes the algorithm actually works for you rather than against you, even when it comes to weapon videos.
Smith and Wesson is so much better than Colt !!!!
thx for highlighting this in the community today
would like to heard more about 1060
This video is pure gold. I just wish that he were talking a little bit slower, cause i had to listen multiple times to get some phrases
This is the kind of content i come for to this channel. Thanks, both of you, quality stuff.
Yes thank you!!!! Finally, I knew I wasnt wrong. And that's why 5160 has always been my favorite steel. Great video, highly informative. And extremely helpful. 100 percent agree with everything U guys said. cant beat affordable, and highly durable well forged 5160. It is the best value for your money. since I bought my darksword medieval knight bastard sword last year, and seen a tfw weapon in action, I have been so impressed with 5160 steel. Short story-
I made mistake and bought 4 swords from darksword armory website. and I paid extra for sharpening services from darksword armory website also. Spent a ton of money and when the 1st 2 came in, I sent ranting email, only For them to tell me it past the paper test hahaha, anyway long story short, I had to re sharpen all 4 swords I ordered from darksword, by myself. Scratched my favorite one,the bastard, made it too sharp, but did very well on other 3. that steel though. holy crap it took forever with accusharp, and sandpaper but I sharpened all 4(bastard, g.messer,waylander,14 century medieval knights sword-wide blade with profile tapering to a more acute tip has fuller length 3/4 of the blade) to a razor sharp edge with no scratches. Cant believe I was able to do that without vice grip and without scratching them.
but after I sharpened that sword properly, it has been my favorite sword I own. I have accidentally smacked against solid wood posts many times, and concrete, dropped it so many times, I have intentionally and unintentionally beat the hell out of that sword for a year and, nothing. That 5160 Blade absorbs shock, resists corrosion and holds its edge like no other blade I own. Love 5160. Love darksword blades(as long as they're sharpened from Kult of athena)
I reccomend traditional Filipino weapons of course with the 5160/d2 tool steel mix. Which is the best mix I've seen yet for the price. D2 is the Same steel on my kleins journey linemen pliers(im electrician). So u will be satisfied 5160/d2 tfw weapon.
I reccomend both tfw qnd dsa(from koa) for beautiful high quality "affordable" blades that will last forever. Just make sure to order darksword swords from kult of Athena, never order sword off darksword website. Never order their sharpening services. Just look at website for products,then leave website and go over to kult of athena to check for darksword sword availability.
I had to find that out the hard way. Took me 5 purchases and many angry emails to darksword before I realized they're not gonna change the quality of sharpening services and go to k.o.a
Love this video, tons of good information for aspiring weapon smiths. Glad to hear there is a single go to type of steel for almost any project.
The steel Skall’s balls are made of
he have two pommels as balls
pommel steel
@@mostcomplicatedman8115 bruh, made my day haha
@@mostcomplicatedman8115 Sheesh, wouldnt smash
@@mostcomplicatedman8115 so he ends people rightly with a teabag?
Falchions were for use against lightly armoured opponents. Otherwise, great video! Really interesting stuff!
It's crazy how much steel has progressed in 3 years. Like a sword time maxhine.
"I could go on for a while..." at 8m mark. The plight of all blacksmiths. I can't tell you how many people ask a question and I'm like, well I hope you know what your getting yourself into....grab a chair, a drink, and probably a few days worth of food. We are going to be here a while.... Then about 20 minutes later I'm asked to stop because now their head hurts. Steel, so simple, yet so complex. It really is an amazing alloy.
I suddenly feel thrown back to job training... but informative video again!
A Blacksmith I know uses mostly leaf springs for blades,quenched in oil. As far as I've seen it's pretty up there. Many files will slide on it,while it being somewhat flexible, hard to chip,or brake.
After lots of consideration, I've come to the realization that it really depends on blades geometry and while there are some over all best steels they all have some trade offs that can make one better over the other.
And it gets quite complex. Given there are lots of variables. And depends entirely on if it's spring tempered and hardened or only edge hardened. Intended targets also make use of it.
No mention of the glorious 420 J2, comprised of roughly 40% chromium, 40% fingernail polish and 20% emo teenager tears when they realise their fancy new fantasy sword can't really be sharpened.
That sounds _exactly_ like Shad's fantasy 'sword' design!
I rather get INFI steel the toughest steel on the market
@@MrZetor It’s not that it can’t be sharpened, but it will have very poor edge stability if you do sharpen it. Most things can be sharpened if you have the right tools and patience, but not all things are meant to be.
@@GODWITHUS0712 i will stick to Crucible steel.
420j could make a good steel if heat treated correctly.
I have a 1060 Carbon steel Katana. I plan to use it as a last resort if ever run out of bullets. I hope it’s a good steel
Sounds like it should be a good metal for a katana, especially if heat treated appropriately for the intended use. I wouldn't use 1060 for fighting knights in plate armor!
You’re so goddamn valid Skall :,)) Thank you so much for all this high quality content and providing such amazing knowledge and insight into a subject that you’re passionate about, as are we:) bless yah man.
High Carbon content?
Hi Skall
I am a long time fan of your channel and your vodeos have taught me a lot about medieval weapons amd fighting. I am myself looking to get into medieval arms but i am limeted to a small budget (300-400€) and know many people with the same problem. So i wanted to aks you if you could make a series of videos containig 3-5 budget weaposn of each “category“ (1h swords, 2h swords, crossbows,...). You dont need to have personal experience with the weapon i think your general knowledge and judgement would be enough.
Thank you for reading this wether you pick up my request or not.
Greetings from Germany
Juergen Stunz have you looked up HEMA groups on social media? That would be your best bet for help with what you can buy and own in Germany, most people start with wooden weapons.
Where are you located in germany? I live there, too.
Lol, how did I miss this one! I love steel! 🥰
I have read way too much about all kinds of knife-steels. 😅
Excellent info! Really useful as I delve into sword collecting.
Let's have him again for another episode.
This is why I love steels like 3V and CruWear. Stupid strong, but also have very good edge retention.
I have a question. Is tamahagane steel tougher than 1095 high carbon steel?
Thanka :D Topic was very interesting and it is nice to know a bit about this beautiful art, the past and the present.
Good video. Maybe a follow up some time dealing with some of the more specific-use steels like tool steels and what-not? Some of them can make awesome swords.
What about surface treatments on the edge, such as nitriding/cementing?
To be honest S30V was a huge letdown to me. Sure it stays "sharp" a lot longer but only if you use the word loosely. It loses it's fine razor edge almost immediately so there isn't much of a point going to super high grits when sharpening it. Unless you just want to spend ages polishing it for the looks because it's also one of the hardest steels to sharpen and polish.
"Sure they can corrode if you neglect them." Don't. Take care of your steel, and it will take care of you. If you just want something pretty to hang on your wall, Stainless is fine for that. However, if you want to Work it (Blacksmithy, not simple Stock Removal) different kinds of stainless can be more difficult to fold, hammer weld, and temper, depending on the alloy. That's something to keep in mind, carbon steel is a lot easier to anneal, and re-temper when you're done.
Hey, honestly it's still a bit complicated for me so i stay with the thinking carbon steel for cutting some tatami mat bottle etc and if there is a burglar and stainless steel for decorating! You will die laughing if u see my first "sword" i bought 🤣 united cutlery jungle toothpick aus-6 stainless steel that shit is so dangerous for the user it cut but it look like it would break so fucking easily and kill u in the process 😄
@@bucksorel6805 Yeah, for swords, that's pretty okay. For kitchen knives, machetes, and your tacklebox, some corrosion resistance may be desirable.
There are many steel types but Steelix has always been my favourite
Great video! It would be fun to see what the outcome would be if you went all scientific about it and designed the optimal sword using whatever modern technology and materials are (even remotely) available today.
I have worked with edged and blunt weapons of all kinds all my life since the 70's, only had one knife break while I was chopping a 2x4 which was a Buck brand fixed blade hunting knife as an adult in the late 90's. As a child I didn't know or understand edge alignment while chopping down trees until I basically learned myself after years of doing it. A little boy dropping a big tree felt kind of powerful to know I could move an object that large which sometimes took me chopping most of a day with my small bowie knife. Just saying I have had every kind of knife from cheap stainless knives from Taiwan to expensive German forest daggers. The same different imagined worth that other had on axes, swords, spears, bows, maces, machetes, you name it I have owned it however I have never bought a weapon for a thousand dollars or more. To me that is too pretentious when I have bought weapons for two hundred dollars that functioned beyond perfectly, trust me I test each one to the max!
I really would love for a TH-cam sword expert to watch the videos of the guy who makes titanium edged weapons using 3 types of welded titanium! The cuts he does on large trees makes it look like his weapons are magical (which of course they are not) even when compared to the best swords and axes that anyone has ever made. Trust me this has been my passion for 40 years and I am waiting for a super alloy that can out function metals that are brand new and especially those ancient metals that everyone cling to just to be historical. Once this happens maybe melee weapons will make a comeback when dealing with close in combat such as room clearing observing the twenty foot rule as you know, might be extended or silent 'purposes' in military operations.
Don't forget that 5160 was a popular steel for leaf springs on older trucks.
So you can get it real cheap if you're willing to do a bit of extra pounding...
Man, I'd love to see a collab with "Alec Steele"!
As underrated as it goes
I really like Damascus steel. Not just for the cool patterns you get on it but it’s usually very hard, good quality steel.
Damascus can be any combination of steels. Damascus doesn't equal good quality steel but there are people making Damascus with good steels.
@@fallenstudent1103true you can get totally crap demascus steel,even the original demascus recipe made hundred of years ago is not that great compared to modern steels tho it was probably the best back then
I'm trying to get a better understanding of the differences between the steel composition of bell knives for a bell knife skiver used in leather work. Nippy makes a 301A bell knife for the international market. This is composed of Japanese SKS51 steel (perhaps unhardened). For its domestic market, Nippy makes the 301 and the 301N, which are both made of hardened German steel, the 301N being harder than the 301. Fortuna, a German company, makes bell knives of only hardened German steel, a Type-S and a Type-K, the latter being more hardened than the former. It seems that the only bell knife worth considering is one made of hardened German steel.
Ive found a site selling custom blades ranging from 1045 to tool steel forget all the numbers and everything else but basically the ones the site say are best for heavy cutting is the tool steel and springsteel.
As a wannabe bladesmith this is critical info
Thank you
Very good video. I knew some of this but I did learn. Thanks.
Very nice and handled different opinions and facts and I appreciate this...thank you
I would love a video discussing titanium swords and potential titanium alloys to create an extremely hard/shap edge that is also more immune to snapping than any iron alloy could possibly be.
Like I said, titanium alloys. Everyone knows elemental titanium is inferior to hardened steel. What I fear nobody has ever even tried is making alloys with titanium, or even new forging techniques to harden a titanium sword's edge. I think there's a lot of potential for new sword materials that simply aren't being explored because people are just too comfortable with steel. It's also kind of irresponsible to claim steel is the best material for a sword blade, for the reasons I just listed.
Check out chandler he black smithed some titanium. Was interesting becuase even heated glowing red you could see the hammer blows where not moving the metal much. The one he had made a decent blade if i remember. Also in alot of planes the pilots cockpit is encased in titanuim because it can be made into decent armor. Also check out the cold war subs made from a vandium aluminum alloy. Was the only way to get aluminum strong enough to break ice.
Well, I was researching swords that you can buy in US for long time enough that I finally understood that it is the best for money and quality (not the looks) to go to the point I started from - order from Russia. Their steel swords are always battle ready (cause they use it widely for buhurts and full contact duels), always 1065 and 50hrc, and price depends purely on look and size.
Best steel for making armour?
This i was especially wondering vs bullets
pixel pixel swords
Well, considering even tank armor is deceptively vulnerable, it's safe to say there is no best steel for that. Especially if you're gonna wear it.
A deceptively simple question that doesn't have an easy answer.
@@GlowingSpamraam It depends on the mass and velocity of the bullet you want to stop. Defeating a 0.32 ACP pistol bullet is much easier than defeating 0.50 BMG.
Guys like these need to make a chart for buyers.
May you please do a follow up video about ballistic AR50-500 steel?
“Ballistic”
Those steels are tool steels used for mining, like a drill bit for rock or excavator bucket teeth (which just the core of the tooth is “Abrasion-Resistant-Rating”)
Most military Units issue Multilayer ceramic plates which is MUCH lighter but crumbles.
@@randybowen4675 mmm. I was looking more for more alloy composition but thanks anyway. In America commercially available ballistic plates and shields are sold made of that steel. for example of those being used in ballistics look up Demolition Ranch's "AR500 Armor Torture Test" or other vids with such steels in the title.
Really great and informative!! 5160 seems pretty good then…
Blut und Eisen!!!!!
Otto Von Bismarck Blød Ok Járn!
I have a custom fighting knife that’s worked like a champ through a deployment made of S35VN CPM. It cost me $330 and it’s only about “7 overall length. I can’t imagine what a sword made of the same metal would cost.
Would regularily oiling the blade be feasible for avoiding/reducing rust?
How do you feel about S5 shock steel
Or T10 steal
Do you guys have a vid on steel care for those types that are subject to a lot of rusting and for edge retention of softer less rusting steel...for farm tools and blades kind of type???
GREAT EXPLANATORY VIDEO !!!
Very well explained after 2 years of hobby blade and knifemaking pattern welding I got a little idea what is going on in the steel universe I did make something very good but I still have to learn very very much . Like he said it depends so much on the right way of heat treatment you can have the best steel in the world and still mess it up easily.
They're masterworks all, you can't go wrong!
This question would only exist in a modern world with no use for swords
Straightforward
Thanks Gentlemen. Great info'! Question: I am hooked on T10 clay temper for gorgeous Hamons and general nastiness and 9260 for flex., How are these two steels rate on your list of quality for doing damage? You also made me rethink the 1060 that I have and will now take it to the back yard and damage some tree limbs. Much more affordable.
Aaaah made me remember when i attended metallurgy classes back in highschool
Super informative video guys thanks for sharing
Who knew Skall knows Ruby Da Cherry
Two questions, really. 1, what's a good way of gauging how good damascus/pattern welded steels like what Alec Steele generally makes are for swords and knives? 2, if I have both kitchen knives and EDC knives, which produces a better edge when used by a newbie; whetstones or belt grinders like the Work Sharp you use?
this is some content i'v been searching for. i'v started getting involved by fixing and modifying the knives, axe blades, ect. i had. recently i worked on some custom blades made from random material that i'v found around and quite satisfied with the results but working on cold metal began to seem like hours of grinding and waste of good metal so i really want to try smithing (black smithing has always been kind of a wet dream for me anyway)
the thing is, i dont really know what to use as an anvil. any advice on obtaining an anvil with an ok price/quality rate would be much appreciated
Anvils of high quality steel are of high price 7 to 10+ $ per pound + shipping and shipping is expensive.
Old anvils in need of some repair quite often are in the 4 to 8$ per lb. Down to cast iron which is not very good at all for hot steel working or cold steel working but are in the 1 to 2$ per pound range.
Often you can find light anvils made of railroad tracks. They are medium good quality.
Next is what it know as an A.S.O. anvil shaped object. Honestly this is the best value for the $ if you want to get started on the cheaper side. If you can find a steel object that's 100 to 400 lbs and is or can be made to be a few inches thick on top and at least a few inches long...u should be golden to start. If your going to weld stuff together to make an A.S.O. the best way is to get it at least full red hot w a rosebud torch and solid weld tye entire surface not just around the edges then wrap it in heavy insulation and let it kuul slowly. Welding around the outside traps air between the layers and deadened the surface from rebound. You want lots of rebound. 1in steel bearing should rebound 10 to 11 inches of dropped from 12 inches.
Rebound means the anvil face is doing 80 to 90 % as much work as the hammer. In some cases if your a welder or know a welder steel can be welded with hard facing rods then ground flat. $$ in that too.
Looking on line for anvils can be good and shocking too
Hope this helps at least some
Blessed days ya'll, Crawford out
@@danielcrawford7315 thanks for the tips, i'd also ask what kind of steel to search for to make an good a.s.o. im all for making useful stuff out of scrap material, i'v heard pieces of old rail road tracks are quite good as you said but they are not easy to find.
@@some1orno1 anything big and heavy lol. I hear most people talk about going to scrap yards and ask for cut offs or big stuff. Even mild steel can work however you do have to touch up the face more often. That said if you could find 4130 or 4360 it would be prime.
Personally I am going to use the forks from an industrial loader. As I understand it's a higher carbon boron infused steel, for sure tough stuff with good flexibility and wear resistance. Mine are from rubber tire loaders like John Deere 644 and Cat 950. Luck would have it I work for a drilling rig moving company so we have some broke ones they let me have. Now I just have to cut them and weld them. They are 8in wide 3in thick and 8ft long b4 the elbow bend n 4ft above.
Wishing you the best of luck in your ventures.
Blessed days sirSir, Crawford out
@@some1orno1 , of you do use rail iron...make sure you dont just pick it up off the rail right of way...if caught they will prosecute you! Touchy farts. Lol. If you can its extremely helpful to add weld in plates on either side of the upright to add mass but also to reinforce the upright as it reduces web flex. Also heard of guys welding plates of big truck springs on top of the track itself, again adding mass but more over giving you a wider harder surface for stricking on.
Lots of people on TH-cam have done videos on it. In the end the bigger and heavier it is the better for you to use.
Hope that helps at least some!
Blessed days sirSir, Crawford out