I like watching videos like this because you almost always learn something new. You get to see peoples different methods as well. I think having someone hold the grain is the most difficult method I've seen. I've seen people use a steralised bowl and a colander or large strainer to hold the grain while rinsing and then you just pour the liquid from the bowl back into the mix. I've also seen people who've set up a hook in which the place the bags string onto and let gravity pull it out naturally.
i like your style, i was just reading about DMS apparently adding a bad smell and taste - any advice? I think im gonna "carefully" carry my bucket outside for 20 minutes to speed up cooling xD
Great video guys , wish this was about when I started BIAB a year ago! Just remember when anyone gets bitten by the bug and upgrades, the Peco still serves as a sparge water heater... that's how I sold it to the Mrs! Alas I have just upgraded to a braumeister, but the peco is a great way of getting into all grain with out breaking the bank! Other tips I have learnt, the Ikea STABIL splatter guard in 33cm, makes a great false bottom to keep the bag and grain off the element. Also the IKEA IDEALISK expandable colander is perfect to allow the grains to drain over the peco or another vessel and keep adding back in during heat up - stops your assistant shaking like a shitting dog! Keep the videos coming lads!
I always mash in my 30l pot with 15 litres and wrap it up to keep the heat for an hour then I use a fermenting bucket with 18l water in. I add the bag of grains to the bucket and stir and leave for 5 or 10 mins to sparge, then drain, pour that back in the pot and that gets me the overall 30 litres I need to boil. Works for me. Might not be right though haha.
Think I missed it in the video, when did the hop tea bags come out? Or did they stay in the boiler as the wort was transferring to the fermentor? I'm never sure whether to take them out pre-chill step or leave them in.
Am i right in saying after you put in grains at 68 degrees, you then need to continue to turn on and off the Peco boiler for an hour to keep it at a constant 68 degrees? Or once its at the 68 degrees at rhe start you just leave it amd it cools over time? Then reheat for boiling?
Ideally you’ll want to keep the temperature constant and accurate for the full length of the mash , after the grains are removed then you’ll bring to a boil
Could you ferment in the peco boiler straight after cooling down instead of transferring to another vessel? Would be super convenient. Also i wonder could you use the heating element to raise temperatures (attached to an inkbird or similar) instead of an outside source of heat, or would the element kill off the yeast surrounding it?
In theory you could ferment in the PECO after use as the wort would have been sterilised after the boil, but you wouldn't want the hop bags and trub left in the fermenter for best results so we would recommend its transferred to a fermenter. I wouldn't recommend the element to heat during fermentation
Single infusion mashing will require 60 mins at target mash temp to allow all the enzymatic reactions to take place and convert the starches into fermentable sugars
Can you help me cool it without a Wort Chiller? if its very cold can I leave it beside an open window? Can I put it outside for 20 minutes? Is there any other option as the chiller really isnt feasible for me xD
Hi, You could try filling a sink with ice cold water and put the stock pot with wort into the water and stir to get it to cool. Setting outside will pick up natural yeast and bugs as it cools
@@Geterbrewed ok i see, I made a west coast IPA last weekend and where looking for this info when to pull them up. I pulled them up before cooling the brew.
Hi guys. I have a spare fermentation bucket on the right (purchased from your good selves). Can I just drill a hole and add a hesting element to it? Or is it a different plastic grade not suitable for boiling?
I've never been able to hit my target OG (always low), (measuring after I've cooled it, but still in the kettle), and I'm always short on preboil volume. I even squeeze the bag and never get close, any suggestions?
We suggest a seal on each side of the fermenter wall, if you need some extra seals add a note in the comment box at checkout and we can add one foc, i always suggest doing a water test to ensure a good seal if possible before beginning the brew
@@Geterbrewed I've got seals on both sides and the tap is screwed in nice and tight. Not sure what else I can do 😂. Everything looks nice and water tight but will start leaking after an hour and it stops after a couple of days when the liquid dries in the seal.
I don't get the need for an airlock on a bucket fermenter. The lid is not going to be tight fitting enough that it will pressurise during fermentation.
He told you why in the video lol. The whole point is to allow CO2 out and not allow Oxygen in. Depending on what you're fementing you don't want Oxygen to enter after the yeast starts working as you allow bacteria, wild yeasts, etc into the fermenter and as such will effect the quality of the beer.
Hands up who else is a bag squeezer then? Don't be shy! 👋 I don't sparge with my BIAB either.
Hilarious !! Enjoyed that comment Bag Squeezer Support Group needed!!
@@Geterbrewed can't waste those precious sugars! Great video by the way. Quick but doesn't miss anything.
like to sqezze my bag to lol
I love to squeeze my bag, but only when the missus is out of the kitchen.
I like watching videos like this because you almost always learn something new. You get to see peoples different methods as well. I think having someone hold the grain is the most difficult method I've seen. I've seen people use a steralised bowl and a colander or large strainer to hold the grain while rinsing and then you just pour the liquid from the bowl back into the mix. I've also seen people who've set up a hook in which the place the bags string onto and let gravity pull it out naturally.
Yeah we like to hear how others do it, everyone will have their own technique
No water shortages for wort cooling I use the no chill method
i like your style, i was just reading about DMS apparently adding a bad smell and taste - any advice? I think im gonna "carefully" carry my bucket outside for 20 minutes to speed up cooling xD
Never seen a plastic Kettle like that! pretty cool
Great video guys , wish this was about when I started BIAB a year ago! Just remember when anyone gets bitten by the bug and upgrades, the Peco still serves as a sparge water heater... that's how I sold it to the Mrs! Alas I have just upgraded to a braumeister, but the peco is a great way of getting into all grain with out breaking the bank! Other tips I have learnt, the Ikea STABIL splatter guard in 33cm, makes a great false bottom to keep the bag and grain off the element. Also the IKEA IDEALISK expandable colander is perfect to allow the grains to drain over the peco or another vessel and keep adding back in during heat up - stops your assistant shaking like a shitting dog! Keep the videos coming lads!
Very good had a laugh at your dog comment
I always mash in my 30l pot with 15 litres and wrap it up to keep the heat for an hour then I use a fermenting bucket with 18l water in. I add the bag of grains to the bucket and stir and leave for 5 or 10 mins to sparge, then drain, pour that back in the pot and that gets me the overall 30 litres I need to boil. Works for me. Might not be right though haha.
Cool. It is 2022 btw, instant read thermometers are really affordable. Try one you'll glad you did.
There is always one
Simple and informative. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
This is great! can you do a bottling video with the kit as well please?
We have some content on bottling on the channel but will be working on more, thanks for letting us know
How is best to clean this thing? PBW with the element in? Then sanitise before using next brew day?
We chatted about cleaning with Brent a few months back and covered this in the video here: th-cam.com/video/Aa1AMk7w2XA/w-d-xo.htmlsi=AfYwRdFqm9fSfd02
Think I missed it in the video, when did the hop tea bags come out? Or did they stay in the boiler as the wort was transferring to the fermentor? I'm never sure whether to take them out pre-chill step or leave them in.
It’s personal preference, we usually leave in during chilling
Never seen a BIAB in a bucket, that's a cool idea!
Yeah its been hugely popular to be honest
BIABIAB, baby.
Am i right in saying after you put in grains at 68 degrees, you then need to continue to turn on and off the Peco boiler for an hour to keep it at a constant 68 degrees? Or once its at the 68 degrees at rhe start you just leave it amd it cools over time? Then reheat for boiling?
Ideally you’ll want to keep the temperature constant and accurate for the full length of the mash , after the grains are removed then you’ll bring to a boil
Could you ferment in the peco boiler straight after cooling down instead of transferring to another vessel? Would be super convenient. Also i wonder could you use the heating element to raise temperatures (attached to an inkbird or similar) instead of an outside source of heat, or would the element kill off the yeast surrounding it?
In theory you could ferment in the PECO after use as the wort would have been sterilised after the boil, but you wouldn't want the hop bags and trub left in the fermenter for best results so we would recommend its transferred to a fermenter. I wouldn't recommend the element to heat during fermentation
Should I keep the malt at strike temperature for an hour?
Single infusion mashing will require 60 mins at target mash temp to allow all the enzymatic reactions to take place and convert the starches into fermentable sugars
How are you boiling in a plastic bucket
It’s a PECO Boiler , www.geterbrewed.com/peco-digital-mashing-bin-boiler-eb1d/ They are heat tolerant
Details about electrical resistance? Watt and shop?
Can you help me cool it without a Wort Chiller? if its very cold can I leave it beside an open window? Can I put it outside for 20 minutes? Is there any other option as the chiller really isnt feasible for me xD
Hi, You could try filling a sink with ice cold water and put the stock pot with wort into the water and stir to get it to cool. Setting outside will pick up natural yeast and bugs as it cools
Hi there. is there a rule of thumb for how much water you need? when a recipe says 10 liters batch size, how much water do i put in the kettle? thanks
Yeah checkout this video which should help : th-cam.com/video/xHFp8QWrEPQ/w-d-xo.html
HI, My Friend good video good tips,, but I have one question, how can I to calculate my full volume BIAB No Sparge, thanks
There are simple calculators online.
When did you pull up the hopbags? I've looked at a lot of videos and everyone's missing to explain this part.
Hey, the hop bags are usually left in whilst the cooling process takes place. What beer style will you be brewing?
@@Geterbrewed ok i see, I made a west coast IPA last weekend and where looking for this info when to pull them up. I pulled them up before cooling the brew.
@@accel84 that’ll still work , let us know how the beer turns out
Should you stir in the dry pitched yeast?
no just sprinkle on top is fine
Hi guys. I have a spare fermentation bucket on the right (purchased from your good selves). Can I just drill a hole and add a hesting element to it? Or is it a different plastic grade not suitable for boiling?
I wouldn't recommend that to be honest , checkout the peco boilers , they are cheap and certified safe
How do you stop the bag burning on the element?
You can use a false bottom , splatter guard from Ikea fits perfectly
The element is not switched on while the bag is in.
I've never been able to hit my target OG (always low), (measuring after I've cooled it, but still in the kettle), and I'm always short on preboil volume. I even squeeze the bag and never get close, any suggestions?
Hi, checkout the video we did on calculating volumes : th-cam.com/video/xHFp8QWrEPQ/w-d-xo.html
Are you buying crushed malt or crushing yourself?
Boil an extra half hour for an hour It will raise your final gravity
Was your sparge water the same temperature as your strike water?
Yeah, with highly modified malt we usually just do a single temp
Anyway to get a good seal on the fermenter tap? Mine keeps leaking.
We suggest a seal on each side of the fermenter wall, if you need some extra seals add a note in the comment box at checkout and we can add one foc, i always suggest doing a water test to ensure a good seal if possible before beginning the brew
@@Geterbrewed I've got seals on both sides and the tap is screwed in nice and tight. Not sure what else I can do 😂. Everything looks nice and water tight but will start leaking after an hour and it stops after a couple of days when the liquid dries in the seal.
Funny I was told on the phone this morning that they’ve never had any complaints about a leaky tap?
Any idea when this kit will be back in stock?
We have the basic boiler kit availakle just awaiting digital boiler stock replenishment
@@Geterbrewed thank you - I’ll await the digital boiler restock 👍🏻
I don't get the need for an airlock on a bucket fermenter. The lid is not going to be tight fitting enough that it will pressurise during fermentation.
The seal the lid makes is sufficient and allows the bubbler / airlock to work effectively
He told you why in the video lol. The whole point is to allow CO2 out and not allow Oxygen in. Depending on what you're fementing you don't want Oxygen to enter after the yeast starts working as you allow bacteria, wild yeasts, etc into the fermenter and as such will effect the quality of the beer.