I would think you would want to install the vent in the middle of the ridge so that rain water can get around the boot. If you install it in the valley how does the water drain?
Installing on the ridge is actually a little harder to seal because of all the contours that you have to seal around. It’s really more luck as to where it’s going to come out, you could pre-drill a hole from the roof and then try to work your way over to that but it becomes a little harder to do when dealing with double walled b vent. But with the whole even in the center valley, the water still runs around it, you just have to make sure that it is sealed well. Through The Roof sealant is amazing. Thank you for your comment It is much easier to seal an opening on a shingled roof.
You would need to get with your building inspector to assess the condition of the chimney and determine if it meets current building codes. It may be possible but every area has its own codes and requirements for things like that. Thank you for the question, and thanks for watching.
If you want to put the b vent inside the chimney and not terminate to the chimney I don’t see why you couldn’t do that, the only real issue I see would be holding the pipe in place. You would need to have a way to attach it at the end of the stack where it exits the chimney. Remember it has to be nonflammable.
It has an old vent pipe going through it already I was just wanting to replace the old corroded galvanized steel with b-vent. It will terminate at the top of the chimney not inside of the chimney. Also I appreciate all of the useful knowledge in this video for future projects.
Awesome video TY. I have a Slant Finn on demand hot water boiler and would like to Horizontally vent it with the B vent as is code here in NY but am un sure what to do once I'm outside the wall on the side of the house, If I need to go up a certain length or just terminate with a T screen end. I'm a trucker but am very handy from videos like yours. ty J.R.
My dad was a Teamster truck driver. So much respect, and thank you for watching my channel. I would use something like this because of the extreme heat it will send out the side of your home. Remember to keep the piping away from anything flammable as it exits. But if you are dealing with an inspector, he may require a special termination method he wants you to use. Horizontal Square Termination Cap-4" x 6 5/8" Direct Vent, 4" x 6.625" amzn.to/3U0C0Qa
great video! we are installing a new furnace at a cabin. the old kerosene furnace used a 6 inch flue pipe. The new propane furnace calls for 4 inch B vent pipe. Could we run the 4 inch pipe up through the existing 6 inch pipe which would eliminate a lot of work?!!.
I don’t see why not, as long as you can keep the b vent centered so it is 2 inches away from the anything flammable. If the 6 inch pipe is not double walled and touching flammables that is. Thank you for watching and thank you for the comments.
Thanks for sharing. It appears that the one what I have is type c and I just noticed that it is split open at the joint due to corrosion. I see the corrosion on the elbows as well. I was looking for the screw size as none of sockets match. You mentioned 1/4" max and mine is less than 1/4. The issue is that I am not able to remove any of them due to corrosion. Slot is wider and flat screw drivers don't fit it either. Any idea on how to remove these screws so that I can replace the pipe.
@@UltimateDiyer Thanks. I was able to remove the screws. Now, I could not remove the pipe. Can I insert a screwdriver into the elbow/pipe joint to pry-out? is there any other method?
I wish more TH-cam knowledge sources were like your videos. Another great one. Question: Are there Type B ducts (8”) that are made similar to the 90 degree articulating type? Also, does a gas rangetop require a Type B (dual wall pipe) for exhaust to your knowledge ? I can not locate this information in the code reference book
Gas ranges actually at the moment do not require any venting, but that does not mean you shouldn’t put one in. All you really need is the single wall, smooth duct, and be sure that you seal all of the joints. The exhaust only requires a regular duct because you do not have extreme heat flowing through it. As to the vent termination area, it always has to be a B vent type as well because it has to be far away from flammable materials like the plywood roofing, note the termination has to be way above your roof. Yes they do make the 8” B vent articulating, elbows. I did find this one in a 7” amzn.to/48hTI5T, if you follow the link and look at the pictures, they show they go all the way to a 10 inch. But it looks like they are not very cheap. Thank you for the comments and all the questions and I really do appreciate you watching.
@@UltimateDiyer Thank you. As always one question spurs on another. I am intending to vent (8” all the way through the roof) even though not required. However in doing so, am I now in need of the Type B products? I think you are saying ‘yes’ due to the flammability issue with ‘low heat’ exhaust from a gas range hood. Is this correct? As far as termination beyond the roof. I do recall in the beginning of the video the 2’ above the roof for 9/12 pitch and lower. Is that required for an ‘optional’ venting system in the first place or only intended for true ‘type B’ appliances (ie Furnace)?
Good video, TY. I want to vent a NuWay propane stove out the wall. I will have a 4' vertical run off the stove with a 90 or 60 degree elbow out the wall through a thimble. The manufacture sells the type C pipe, but I'm going to upgrade to type B. Is there a reason that type B can't be vented through the wall?
No, Type B vent can be vented through a wall, but it requires a special "wall thimble" to ensure proper clearance from combustible materials like wood framing, and to act as a firestop where the vent passes through the wall
Good morning, I am also changing my furnace too , one question, the pipe does not go in the direction of the arrow or does that not matter? Thanks have a good day.
That's very interesting I didn't even pay attention to the little arrows because the pipes can only connect one way. I think the arrow is showing the side that you must connect/push down on as you assemble the piping. Awesome question. Thank you for the question and for watching.
@@UltimateDiyer You want the lap on the inside going in the direction of flow. If it's exhaust lap goes on the inside of next connection. If it's a return line you want the opposite.
Yes you should slope the vent for that reason but there are restrictions on how far you can run a horizontal run and you cannot put multiple lines from other vents on the same line in most cases.
I changed my gas furnace to electric. Can I use the old exhaust for the ventilation of the bathroom in my attic, if so how can I do it without touching the part on the roof? Can I cut it or are there replacement parts? It is a B-vent 6' what i have THANKS
I assume your question is, can you use the old B vent hole to be able to vent your bathroom ventilation? The answer is yes you can, you can use the old pipe and cut it and use regular HVAC ductwork to connect to it or you can take the entire vent stack out and replace it with one on the roof that is made for bathroom venting, which would be my suggestion.
Both methods, though, would use HVAC flex duct to carry the bathrooms exhaust to the roof, you can use single wall vent pipe, but flex works much better
Great video. A couple of questions. How do you snap the together the horizontal seam on the C pipe? And if that penetrates through a roof and it gets wet, will water leak down inside through that seam? Some of the Modine hot dawg heaters that have exhaust fans say to slope the horizontal exit runs down slightly rather than up for drainage but I think that’s because they have the fan pushing the flu gas out. As a sidenote, when PVC burns, the fumes are deadly so you definitely don’t want to use PVC where you shouldn’t. Back when we had old style house phones made of PVC it was found that that would often be the cause of death for people in housefires.
That's great information on the PVC pipes. C pipes just slide together; the proper method is to use a specially designed "C vent connector" that fits snugly and creates a sealed connection without the need for screws.
Awesome video! Thank you. I replaced an inducer fan blade that rotted at the center where it connects to the motor last year. I did not replace the motor because it still worked. If that inducer motor ever stopped working, would there be some type of protection to stop it from running if that motor or fan blade ever stopped functioning? I have a Utica gas boiler for forced hot water heat. Thanks in advance!
Yes the unit “system “ should have safety features that shut off the unit if the forced air fan stops running. Check your units manual and look under safety features.
In SW Ohio, (I don't know the rest of the country) shooting a screw into a product like B vent will fail an inspection 100% of the time. I assume based on the manufacturers and UL listing, I'd be STUNNED if screws are allowed. The manufacturer's trump local codes, and inspectors will defer to manufacturers. Also, B Vent will not be high temp. Because its dual wall, it won't burn your hands. Also, B Vent, like flexible gas line hardware is brand specific. B vent can also not be trimmed. A telescoping piece must be used for distance. On a PVC flue, it's not condensate. It's products of combustion. It's not like AC condensate.
Correction. Code does not allow single wall through any roof. Single wall pipe is run to a chimney where it is vented. If the chimney is clay tile lined, some inspectors will allow the pipe to enter the chimney. Because flue gases eat away mortar (something we've belatedly learned) the chimney must have a flue liner if its brick/mortar. B vent can run through a roof with a roof flashing, storm collar, and storm cap.
Great information, the only single walled piping I would run through a roof would be exhaust fans , anything with heat like HVAC or hot water I use b vent, double walled. I passed inspection because the screws were very short and did not penetrate the inner pipe. But you are correct some places don’t allow screws at all. And you are also correct on the pipe being not hot. But the inspector wanted a half inch clearance from all combustible material. Thank you for watching and the awesome feedback
Sorry, but I couldn't help but laugh watching you slowly sliding down roof out of camera view. Very informative video, even though I don't have a metal roof.
@@UltimateDiyer The glue on the tape melts off and it's useless. Also the glue is toxic. As you mentioned it's not necessary. You can use it on a cold system I/E Forced air Heat A/C However IMO it's a hack way of installing duct. Better off to use a proper duct seal. Now on the double wall as you explained in your video once it's locked it's locked. A few zip screws Would be as far as I go if needed and then if you feel it's not sealed use a high temp caulk around the connections. 35 years as Union Tinknocker If I was to use tape on my connections I would get laughed off the job. Nothing better than a nice clean install. Plumb level hangers etc etc. DIYers are gonna do what they are gonna do to save money. However you can still take pride in your install. Also look at the tape around the connections It looks like Dog !@#$. LOL.
Very nice to see you doing this on a steel roof rather than shingle. Thank you!
You are welcome, I looked and couldn’t find many videos showing a metal roof. Thanks for the comment and thank you for watching.
@@UltimateDiyerPretty handy guy
Great explanations, brother. Thank you.
You are very welcome
I would think you would want to install the vent in the middle of the ridge so that rain water can get around the boot. If you install it in the valley how does the water drain?
Installing on the ridge is actually a little harder to seal because of all the contours that you have to seal around. It’s really more luck as to where it’s going to come out, you could pre-drill a hole from the roof and then try to work your way over to that but it becomes a little harder to do when dealing with double walled b vent. But with the whole even in the center valley, the water still runs around it, you just have to make sure that it is sealed well.
Through The Roof sealant is amazing. Thank you for your comment
It is much easier to seal an opening on a shingled roof.
What are some options for venting through and old brick stack? I woul like to run a line though the chimney to the roof can i use b vent for that?
You would need to get with your building inspector to assess the condition of the chimney and determine if it meets current building codes. It may be possible but every area has its own codes and requirements for things like that. Thank you for the question, and thanks for watching.
If you want to put the b vent inside the chimney and not terminate to the chimney I don’t see why you couldn’t do that, the only real issue I see would be holding the pipe in place. You would need to have a way to attach it at the end of the stack where it exits the chimney. Remember it has to be nonflammable.
It has an old vent pipe going through it already I was just wanting to replace the old corroded galvanized steel with b-vent. It will terminate at the top of the chimney not inside of the chimney. Also I appreciate all of the useful knowledge in this video for future projects.
Awesome video TY. I have a Slant Finn on demand hot water boiler and would like to Horizontally vent it with the B vent as is code here in NY but am un sure what to do once I'm outside the wall on the side of the house, If I need to go up a certain length or just terminate with a T screen end. I'm a trucker but am very handy from videos like yours. ty J.R.
My dad was a Teamster truck driver. So much respect, and thank you for watching my channel. I would use something like this because of the extreme heat it will send out the side of your home. Remember to keep the piping away from anything flammable as it exits.
But if you are dealing with an inspector, he may require a special termination method he wants you to use.
Horizontal Square Termination Cap-4" x 6 5/8" Direct Vent, 4" x 6.625"
amzn.to/3U0C0Qa
great video! we are installing a new furnace at a cabin. the old kerosene furnace used a 6 inch flue pipe. The new propane furnace calls for 4 inch B vent pipe. Could we run the 4 inch pipe up through the existing 6 inch pipe which would eliminate a lot of work?!!.
I don’t see why not, as long as you can keep the b vent centered so it is 2 inches away from the anything flammable. If the 6 inch pipe is not double walled and touching flammables that is. Thank you for watching and thank you for the comments.
Thanks for sharing. It appears that the one what I have is type c and I just noticed that it is split open at the joint due to corrosion. I see the corrosion on the elbows as well. I was looking for the screw size as none of sockets match. You mentioned 1/4" max and mine is less than 1/4. The issue is that I am not able to remove any of them due to corrosion. Slot is wider and flat screw drivers don't fit it either. Any idea on how to remove these screws so that I can replace the pipe.
Locking Chanel lock if you can get ahold of it. You might also try an extraction kit. amzn.to/3TTVNQb
@@UltimateDiyer Thanks. I was able to remove the screws. Now, I could not remove the pipe. Can I insert a screwdriver into the elbow/pipe joint to pry-out? is there any other method?
Removed the old pipe. Waiting for the new. Thanks.
I wish more TH-cam knowledge sources were like your videos. Another great one.
Question: Are there Type B ducts (8”) that are made similar to the 90 degree articulating type?
Also, does a gas rangetop require a Type B (dual wall pipe) for exhaust to your knowledge ? I can not locate this information in the code reference book
Gas ranges actually at the moment do not require any venting, but that does not mean you shouldn’t put one in. All you really need is the single wall, smooth duct, and be sure that you seal all of the joints. The exhaust only requires a regular duct because you do not have extreme heat flowing through it. As to the vent termination area, it always has to be a B vent type as well because it has to be far away from flammable materials like the plywood roofing, note the termination has to be way above your roof.
Yes they do make the 8” B vent articulating, elbows. I did find this one in a 7” amzn.to/48hTI5T, if you follow the link and look at the pictures, they show they go all the way to a 10 inch. But it looks like they are not very cheap.
Thank you for the comments and all the questions and I really do appreciate you watching.
@@UltimateDiyer Thank you. As always one question spurs on another. I am intending to vent (8” all the way through the roof) even though not required. However in doing so, am I now in need of the Type B products? I think you are saying ‘yes’ due to the flammability issue with ‘low heat’ exhaust from a gas range hood. Is this correct?
As far as termination beyond the roof. I do recall in the beginning of the video the 2’ above the roof for 9/12 pitch and lower. Is that required for an ‘optional’ venting system in the first place or only intended for true ‘type B’ appliances (ie Furnace)?
Good video, TY. I want to vent a NuWay propane stove out the wall. I will have a 4' vertical run off the stove with a 90 or 60 degree elbow out the wall through a thimble. The manufacture sells the type C pipe, but I'm going to upgrade to type B. Is there a reason that type B can't be vented through the wall?
No, Type B vent can be vented through a wall, but it requires a special "wall thimble" to ensure proper clearance from combustible materials like wood framing, and to act as a firestop where the vent passes through the wall
@@UltimateDiyer Got it.
Good morning, I am also changing my furnace too , one question, the pipe does not go in the direction of the arrow or does that not matter? Thanks have a good day.
That's very interesting I didn't even pay attention to the little arrows because the pipes can only
connect one way. I think the arrow is showing the side that you must connect/push down on as you assemble the piping. Awesome question. Thank you for the question and for watching.
@@UltimateDiyer You want the lap on the inside going in the direction of flow. If it's exhaust lap goes on the inside of next connection. If it's a return line you want the opposite.
can a horizontal power vent be sloped to outside to allow condensation to run outside in vent?
Yes you should slope the vent for that reason but there are restrictions on how far you can run a horizontal run and you cannot put multiple lines from other vents on the same line in most cases.
I changed my gas furnace to electric. Can I use the old exhaust for the ventilation of the bathroom in my attic, if so how can I do it without touching the part on the roof?
Can I cut it or are there replacement parts?
It is a B-vent 6' what i have
THANKS
I assume your question is, can you use the old B vent hole to be able to vent your bathroom ventilation? The answer is yes you can, you can use the old pipe and cut it and use regular HVAC ductwork to connect to it or you can take the entire vent stack out and replace it with one on the roof that is made for bathroom venting, which would be my suggestion.
Both methods, though, would use HVAC flex duct to carry the bathrooms exhaust to the roof, you can use single wall vent pipe, but flex works much better
@@UltimateDiyer Flex is easier to install. It's def not better.
Question: I need to vent a wood stove thru a 4/12 gable roof. Better to install stack before or after the roof is shingled? TIA.
If you have the option, I think it’s always best to have the stack there as the shingles are being put on rather than trying to cut it later.
@@UltimateDiyer appreciate the reply.
Once the pipe is joined/can it be disconnected from ea.other?
From my roof to the inside it needs replaced
Yes they pull apart
I beat the elbow off with a hammer/never could turn either.
Thanks
Hot in my attic today!
Great video. A couple of questions. How do you snap the together the horizontal seam on the C pipe? And if that penetrates through a roof and it gets wet, will water leak down inside through that seam? Some of the Modine hot dawg heaters that have exhaust fans say to slope the horizontal exit runs down slightly rather than up for drainage but I think that’s because they have the fan pushing the flu gas out. As a sidenote, when PVC burns, the fumes are deadly so you definitely don’t want to use PVC where you shouldn’t. Back when we had old style house phones made of PVC it was found that that would often be the cause of death for people in housefires.
That's great information on the PVC pipes. C pipes just slide together; the proper method is to use a specially designed "C vent connector" that fits snugly and creates a sealed connection without the need for screws.
Looking to do this myself. Have you had any leaks? I have a metal roof as well.
No I have had 0 leaks, just be sure to use a lot of through the roof sealant, I build a large dam all the way around.
Awesome video! Thank you. I replaced an inducer fan blade that rotted at the center where it connects to the motor last year. I did not replace the motor because it still worked. If that inducer motor ever stopped working, would there be some type of protection to stop it from running if that motor or fan blade ever stopped functioning? I have a Utica gas boiler for forced hot water heat. Thanks in advance!
Yes the unit “system “ should have safety features that shut off the unit if the forced air fan stops running. Check your units manual and look under safety features.
Great video
Thank you I appreciate you watching and appreciate the comment
In SW Ohio, (I don't know the rest of the country) shooting a screw into a product like B vent will fail an inspection 100% of the time. I assume based on the manufacturers and UL listing, I'd be STUNNED if screws are allowed. The manufacturer's trump local codes, and inspectors will defer to manufacturers. Also, B Vent will not be high temp. Because its dual wall, it won't burn your hands. Also, B Vent, like flexible gas line hardware is brand specific. B vent can also not be trimmed. A telescoping piece must be used for distance. On a PVC flue, it's not condensate. It's products of combustion. It's not like AC condensate.
See follow up comment
Correction. Code does not allow single wall through any roof. Single wall pipe is run to a chimney where it is vented. If the chimney is clay tile lined, some inspectors will allow the pipe to enter the chimney. Because flue gases eat away mortar (something we've belatedly learned) the chimney must have a flue liner if its brick/mortar. B vent can run through a roof with a roof flashing, storm collar, and storm cap.
Great information, the only single walled piping I would run through a roof would be exhaust fans , anything with heat like HVAC or hot water I use b vent, double walled. I passed inspection because the screws were very short and did not penetrate the inner pipe. But you are correct some places don’t allow screws at all. And you are also correct on the pipe being not hot. But the inspector wanted a half inch clearance from all combustible material. Thank you for watching and the awesome feedback
You never take the plumber strap out of the box
You are correct because it becomes a mess. Thank you wathing and commenting
Excellent vent info. Poor roof skills 😂
God, I know that roof was new and very slick, and I'm getting old as well! Thank you for watching!
I concerned, is our guy gonna slide off the roof?
I almost did! Thanks for watching and commenting.
Sorry, but I couldn't help but laugh watching you slowly sliding down roof out of camera view. Very informative video, even though I don't have a metal roof.
lol, it was hell trying to not slide! Thank you for watching and commenting.
400 a year. 0r 245. or 300 die or so. not 1000's. - and discharge combustion temp is up to 400 deg F not 500
Great information thank you for the comment and thank you for watching
Do not put tape on your B-Vent double wall. DON"T DO IT.
Hey Jimmy, why don’t you put tape on. Is it a hazard of some kind? Thanks for watching and the comment.
@@UltimateDiyer The glue on the tape melts off and it's useless. Also the glue is toxic. As you mentioned it's not necessary. You can use it on a cold system I/E Forced air Heat A/C However IMO it's a hack way of installing duct. Better off to use a proper duct seal. Now on the double wall as you explained in your video once it's locked it's locked. A few zip screws Would be as far as I go if needed and then if you feel it's not sealed use a high temp caulk around the connections. 35 years as Union Tinknocker If I was to use tape on my connections I would get laughed off the job. Nothing better than a nice clean install. Plumb level hangers etc etc. DIYers are gonna do what they are gonna do to save money. However you can still take pride in your install. Also look at the tape around the connections It looks like Dog !@#$. LOL.
all you did was explain pipe. thought this was about installation. how about how to put 2 pipes together. duh wasted my time
Um, I did actually install the pipe. Maybe you tuned away too soon. Thank you for watching and commenting.