Great video, I will add to lubricate the axle seal with grease or gear oil before installing the axle shaft. Running a seal dry will cause premature failure.
Yeah it does but he's correct. Sliding the axle into a dry seal can damage it. Any time you change ANY rubber seal like this it should be oiled. Axle, engine etc. Great video though. It helped refresh my memory as I haven't worked on a GM 10 bolt rear end in several years.
Great video! I wasn’t sure if the G80 locker caused problems getting the axle out. I would suggest oiling the seal before sliding an axle across it and don’t kill that little 5/15 bolt holding the carrier pin. I couldn’t tell you how many people destroyed their carrier having to drill that pin out.
Thank you so much for the video, I had doubts wether I installed the abs tone ring too far in, also the bearing too far in and will need to be taken out but watching your video I could see I was right on the money. :)
thanx so mch! awesome video & thnx for taking time to explain process, nothing like saving a lil $$. seen tons of these videos but nobody has done passenger side!
Gotta wonder why you didn't use your seal/bearing driver kit to install the axle seal as well as the bearing. And, also why you didn't pre-lube the seal with a little gear oil around the lip before pushing the axle back into place. Other than that, good video.
Really good video and narration. I am just amazed at how clean that rear end looks, almost like new, not like mine! PS: You forgot the clips on the drum!
@@tigermanmccool4037 Actually I did the entire underside of the truck, frame, suspension, differential. Wire wheeled and phosphated all of it. 16 yo truck and you can eat off the bottom now! I'm in upstate NY, salt hell. :-)
This is a excellent video. One question I have about the size of the puller used? what size is that? the ones I have seem to small or too large and Need a perfect fit to avoid damaging the ABS reluctor when inserting and pulling. Thanks
They don't use a torque wrench. They should have used a torque wrench to re-install the diff cover (just helps ensure all cover bolts are tightened the same amount). But, they used an air ratchet instead.
What are the green markings highlighting at 15:00-16:00? Are those some sort of plugs for the axle tubes? I know they are rubbery but don't appear to be replaceable parts. Thanks
I have a 1997 GMC truck that is 2wd will it have a press on type of bearing and seal? I am needing to do rear axles. Just didn't know if I was going to have to take it to a shop to get them pressed on.
That snippet that's missing from where they began trying to push the axle in to remove the C-Clip, and then they came back and the axle was far enough in the diff to pull the C-Clip out, that's where I'm at. I've done this on an 02 without a problem, but I can't get the axles in my 2011 to go into the diff far enough to pull the c-clips. I also haven't tried hitting it with a BFH.
2005 chevy avalanche z71. Got the bolt out pin out finally got the c-clip out. Axle will not slid out. Its like its still got the clip in it. The clip is out! But its still will not come out. Ant thoughts? Did i miss a step?
what about examining the abs ring that is in there? there is a lot of these trucks that have it just behind the bearing. and if it's not right it will spin on the shaft and cause a ABS/Stabilatrack light.
I have been trying to figure out what that ring is for hours. Mine has so much play I was not sure if it is correct. Do you know anything about it? and should it rotate with the axle?
Hello thank you for a awesome video. I'm looking for some good advice here hopefully you or any of your commentators can assist me. I have a 05 chevy Tahoe LT,4x4. I believe it's got 3.72 gears. Lately my rear end seems to lock up when turning at slow speeds. And from time to time I may here a clunk as well when turning. I dont here any humming, grinding noise or winding noise. I opened up the cover and replaced the gear fluid with recommend 75-90. I did not see any scoring or anything on the gears from what I can see. When I inspected the cover I found a small piece of curved metal about the size of a quarter. It does not appear that it broke off of anything. It looks more like a retaining clip of some sort that may have loosened up and fall off. Not quite sure if this is what is causing my issue. Additionally when driving straight on street or highway i get the feeling the feeling of dragging or pulling a heavy trailer. The power just isn't there. Please help!!! Thank you for your input
@@snoopfurlow1275 thank you for your reply. So after a careful inspection I found that a retaining clip which holds the small clutch packs came off. This gave way to vibrations which let to some of the teeth in the spider gears to brake. This then cause the binding and lockup I was experiencing. The ring and pinion teeth did not suffer any damage.
When you put the c-clips back in how do they need to be rotated? It looked like the open end of the c-clips were facing you before you rotated the differential.
Any tips on removing the C clips that hold the axle shafts in the differntial. After I push in on the axle it feels like I do not have enough space to remove the C clip feels like that block in the middle of the differntial is in the way.
Would a bad rear bearing cause a negative chamber issue ? Truck drives smooth but the left rear wheel has more negative chamber I noticed. I got to look at it more. Weather has been shitty though
Help please just I bought a 08 f150 rear wheels not spinning do you think is the transfer case or differential when I put the car up to the air rear wheels are like locked
The cross pin bolt must also have loctite, I saw this on a '93 chevy suburban. You can imagine what happens next. The pin will slide out locking up the rear end and destroying everything which will require a whole rear axle assembly.
Im in the middle of this process and i cant get the diff to spin to get access to the bolt and pin. Its been sitting for a while so any tricks to get the gears to spin freely by hand?
Jack the back wheels off the ground and put the transmission in neutral. Don't forget to chalk (block) the front wheels as there's nothing stopping the car from rolling, unless you have it on a lift. :)
2CarPros It's not unusual in these parts to spray things like exhaust parts every day for a week with PB Blaster, etc. before attempting to take them off. And then they break off anyway....
Robert same as Wisconsin. I just got done needing all new lines and all 4 calipers from rust. Kinda think my left rear might be axle seal😭. But all done myself what a pain in the ass
i have an 07 silverado and i have notice that the rear axle it self has a lot of play and when i pull on it back and forth there's a loud clunk. is this normal? some people tell me that it is normal but i just dont know and i dont want to cause any more damage if is not normal.
Bolt came out easy, pin came out easy, right axle pushed right in and I pulled the clip, but left one won't budge, rock solid! Hit it with 4# dead blow, nothing, 4# steel hammer, won't budge, sounds like beating on solid steel! What's up with that? What do I have to do to get the axle to push in?
hey bro I bought a 08 f150 rear wheels not spinning do you think is the transfer case or differential when I put the car up to the air rear wheels are like locked
@@CRS691 No, you're right. It's not going to help. It might make you feel good, but it's not going to help. It probably has thread-locker on it, so just torque on it till it moves.
Passenger side doesn't wear out as fast because 70% of the time there is no passenger which means less wait = less wear. Unless you're like me & love those ladies with lots of back. Ha! 🤯
Wow that truck is like new!..Was the bearing bad? Have never seen mechanics use brand new white cloth towels on a job like that,seems like a waste.It's always nice to see and work on very clean late model vehicles like that,not all of us are that lucky!.....Lol
You spent about 2 minutes showing how to dump oil in the bearing to pre-lube it but didn't show us what you're talking about with the "one end being smaller" or this "small lip" you mentioned. You also never said anything about pre-lubing the new seal!
6:53 I'm pretty much a pro at Slide Hammers, know what I'm saying. Yes, now everyone understands no matter what the content, it can be sexual... I mean, sensual...
For us that actually use these trucks for work and drive dirt and gravel roads the drum brakes hold up 500% better than rear disk in that cloud of dust dirt and mud.
Great video, I will add to lubricate the axle seal with grease or gear oil before installing the axle shaft. Running a seal dry will cause premature failure.
rthomas2471 diff oil works it way down to the bearings and seals as a normal part of operation assuming the diff is filled properly
Yeah it does but he's correct. Sliding the axle into a dry seal can damage it. Any time you change ANY rubber seal like this it should be oiled. Axle, engine etc. Great video though. It helped refresh my memory as I haven't worked on a GM 10 bolt rear end in several years.
rthomas2471 I
@living in a desert ah ha yes
I had to remove speed sensor in order to get that last bit of space to pull c clip out. Great video, thanks for the tips!
Great video! I wasn’t sure if the G80 locker caused problems getting the axle out. I would suggest oiling the seal before sliding an axle across it and don’t kill that little 5/15 bolt holding the carrier pin. I couldn’t tell you how many people destroyed their carrier having to drill that pin out.
forget the last two bolt on the drum! Thanks for the video It's clear and good explanation.
Thank you so much for watching!
Thank you so much for the video, I had doubts wether I installed the abs tone ring too far in, also the bearing too far in and will need to be taken out but watching your video I could see I was right on the money. :)
Glad it helped!
I'm doing this job on a 1995 chevy van G20. This video helped because it's the same design ish. Thanks!
A lot of GM products have a ton of overlap! Great job spotting it and fixing it. Thank you for watching!
Thank you, gentlemen! Nice, clean, detailed instructions. You helped pull my bacon out of the fire.
So glad you liked it! Thanks for watching!
thanx so mch! awesome video & thnx for taking time to explain process, nothing like saving a lil $$. seen tons of these videos but nobody has done passenger side!
Gotta wonder why you didn't use your seal/bearing driver kit to install the axle seal as well as the bearing. And, also why you didn't pre-lube the seal with a little gear oil around the lip before pushing the axle back into place. Other than that, good video.
Is there a plastic spacer that needs to go back in
nice work -- nice to see you put care into a customer car.
+Mike Snow Thanks for the comment!
This was a very helpful video. Thanks 2CarPros.
Really good video and narration. I am just amazed at how clean that rear end looks, almost like new, not like mine!
PS: You forgot the clips on the drum!
You don't replace the clips on the drum, throw them away.
@@flyurway don't forgot to paint the cover while it was off so all your buddies would know you worked on it yourself....lol
@@tigermanmccool4037 Actually I did the entire underside of the truck, frame, suspension, differential. Wire wheeled and phosphated all of it. 16 yo truck and you can eat off the bottom now! I'm in upstate NY, salt hell. :-)
This is a excellent video. One question I have about the size of the puller used? what size is that? the ones I have seem to small or too large and
Need a perfect fit to avoid damaging the ABS reluctor when inserting and pulling.
Thanks
Very, very helpful and concise.
I like the torque wrench you guys use.
They don't use a torque wrench. They should have used a torque wrench to re-install the diff cover (just helps ensure all cover bolts are tightened the same amount). But, they used an air ratchet instead.
@@jcuvier135 they did use a torque wrench on the diff bolts on the final passes.
Thank you! exactly What i was looking for!
Thank you for watching!
Very helpful, got me out of a jam, thanks !
Thanks for watching!
What size bolts was used to pull the drum off?
What are the green markings highlighting at 15:00-16:00? Are those some sort of plugs for the axle tubes? I know they are rubbery but don't appear to be replaceable parts. Thanks
I have a 1997 GMC truck that is 2wd will it have a press on type of bearing and seal? I am needing to do rear axles. Just didn't know if I was going to have to take it to a shop to get them pressed on.
This video is very well done
That snippet that's missing from where they began trying to push the axle in to remove the C-Clip, and then they came back and the axle was far enough in the diff to pull the C-Clip out, that's where I'm at. I've done this on an 02 without a problem, but I can't get the axles in my 2011 to go into the diff far enough to pull the c-clips. I also haven't tried hitting it with a BFH.
2005 chevy avalanche z71. Got the bolt out pin out finally got the c-clip out. Axle will not slid out. Its like its still got the clip in it. The clip is out! But its still will not come out. Ant thoughts? Did i miss a step?
What ended up happening?
Your axle is stuck because of the outer shaft is wore excessively your going to have to all but hammer old out
wow man beautiful video. keep up the great work
Thank you so much for watching and commenting!
what about examining the abs ring that is in there? there is a lot of these trucks that have it just behind the bearing. and if it's not right it will spin on the shaft and cause a ABS/Stabilatrack light.
I have been trying to figure out what that ring is for hours. Mine has so much play I was not sure if it is correct. Do you know anything about it? and should it rotate with the axle?
Do you have a part # for that puller set?
Hello thank you for a awesome video. I'm looking for some good advice here hopefully you or any of your commentators can assist me. I have a 05 chevy Tahoe LT,4x4. I believe it's got 3.72 gears. Lately my rear end seems to lock up when turning at slow speeds. And from time to time I may here a clunk as well when turning. I dont here any humming, grinding noise or winding noise. I opened up the cover and replaced the gear fluid with recommend 75-90. I did not see any scoring or anything on the gears from what I can see. When I inspected the cover I found a small piece of curved metal about the size of a quarter. It does not appear that it broke off of anything. It looks more like a retaining clip of some sort that may have loosened up and fall off. Not quite sure if this is what is causing my issue. Additionally when driving straight on street or highway i get the feeling the feeling of dragging or pulling a heavy trailer. The power just isn't there. Please help!!! Thank you for your input
The pion gears done chipped of in small pieces,its time to replace it
@@snoopfurlow1275 thank you for your reply. So after a careful inspection I found that a retaining clip which holds the small clutch packs came off. This gave way to vibrations which let to some of the teeth in the spider gears to brake. This then cause the binding and lockup I was experiencing. The ring and pinion teeth did not suffer any damage.
When you put the c-clips back in how do they need to be rotated? It looked like the open end of the c-clips were facing you before you rotated the differential.
Removing the abs sensor gives the extra clearance to push in the axle more and the C clips will just fall out..wont even need a magnet or screwdriver
why you didn't pre-lube the seal with a little gear oil around the lip before pushing the axle back into place.
Any tips on removing the C clips that hold the axle shafts in the differntial. After I push in on the axle it feels like I do not have enough space to remove the C clip feels like that block in the middle of the differntial is in the way.
Remove the abs sensor
Would a bad rear bearing cause a negative chamber issue ? Truck drives smooth but the left rear wheel has more negative chamber I noticed. I got to look at it more. Weather has been shitty though
Help please just I bought a 08 f150 rear wheels not spinning do you think is the transfer case or differential when I put the car up to the air rear wheels are like locked
I could not get my bearing puller in without damaging the speed sensor ring, is there a special bearing puller required for this?
Does the pinion output yolk get its lubrication from the diff fluid, or does it have sealed bearings?
The cross pin bolt must also have loctite, I saw this on a '93 chevy suburban. You can imagine what happens next. The pin will slide out locking up the rear end and destroying everything which will require a whole rear axle assembly.
What did they use before locktite was invented?
@@TheJcrandazzoUnicorn jizz
Im in the middle of this process and i cant get the diff to spin to get access to the bolt and pin. Its been sitting for a while so any tricks to get the gears to spin freely by hand?
Jack the back wheels off the ground and put the transmission in neutral. Don't forget to chalk (block) the front wheels as there's nothing stopping the car from rolling, unless you have it on a lift. :)
You can tell that is California, perfectly clean. In New England there be rust on everything. You'd have to chip it off to find the bolts....
Oh man that would make it so much tougher! I'd invest in some liquid bolt breaker. Or maybe a case lol Thank you so much for watching!
2CarPros It's not unusual in these parts to spray things like exhaust parts every day for a week with PB Blaster, etc. before attempting to take them off. And then they break off anyway....
Robert Thomas I'm having trouble taking the pinion shaft out the differential
Fernando Vargas Don't know what to say, mine came out pretty easy. Good luck
Robert same as Wisconsin. I just got done needing all new lines and all 4 calipers from rust. Kinda think my left rear might be axle seal😭. But all done myself what a pain in the ass
Would this be the same process for a 2001? Nice Video
It would be very similar if not the same
i have an 07 silverado and i have notice that the rear axle it self has a lot of play and when i pull on it back and forth there's a loud clunk. is this normal? some people tell me that it is normal but i just dont know and i dont want to cause any more damage if is not normal.
Great video! Thanks!
Thanks for watching!
Hi my 2012 gmc sierra slt 1500 4x4 z71 has two bearings on rear axle
Bolt came out easy, pin came out easy, right axle pushed right in and I pulled the clip, but left one won't budge, rock solid! Hit it with 4# dead blow, nothing, 4# steel hammer, won't budge, sounds like beating on solid steel! What's up with that? What do I have to do to get the axle to push in?
To anyone else with that issue, it was the damn ABS sensor in the way!
Can you guy’s tell me what tools 🧰 needed to pulling out the bearings and pull in side ? thanks. 😊 I hope you guy’s read this thank you & god bless
Is it the same for the driver side as it is the passenger side?
hey bro I bought a 08 f150 rear wheels not spinning do you think is the transfer case or differential when I put the car up to the air rear wheels are like locked
Sounds like the differential needs a replacement. Thanks for watching!
Is it the same process for the driver side?
So what's the appropriate size socket?
any tricks to removing that 8mm bolt that holds in the pin inside the diff? mine is wicked tight and I'm afraid to snap it off. Nice video.
Try spraying WD-40 or some other penetrating fluid and letting it sit before removing it. Thanks for watching!
@@2carpros is that really going to help? since its been in oil its whole life
@@CRS691 No, you're right. It's not going to help. It might make you feel good, but it's not going to help. It probably has thread-locker on it, so just torque on it till it moves.
Use 5/16
It's tighter than 8mm
Do you have to remove the brake drum assembly in order to take out the axle?
Yep. Thanks for watching!
Do you have the part number to the axle seal and the bearings?
Wondering why every video I see is the rear driver side and not passenger side. Is it a nightmare or something ?
Passenger side doesn't wear out as fast because 70% of the time there is no passenger which means less wait = less wear. Unless you're like me & love those ladies with lots of back. Ha! 🤯
@@gunsofsteele Ah makes sense.
how to know if my truck is LSD in the differential. It is a sierra1500 GMC 2007 5.3 engine
Do I have to put a new bearings
Wow that truck is like new!..Was the bearing bad? Have never seen mechanics use brand new white cloth towels on a job like that,seems like a waste.It's always nice to see and work on very clean late model vehicles like that,not all of us are that lucky!.....Lol
Yeah the bearing was junk so it needed replacing. Just trying to make a good video. Part of living in the desert I guess. Thanks for watching Gary!
I don’t understand I can’t get my center pin it keeps hitting something and all the holes look lined up too me
Thanks 2012 CHEVROLET SILVERADO 1500
I'm assuming the process for the bearing on passenger side is the same???
That it is. Thanks for watching!
@@2carpros Cool. Thank you for the response..
should you pack hi temp bearing grease in the bearing
Is this the same drivetrain as a Tahoe, same year?
2carpros, is this the exact same process for the passenger side as well?
Yes it is.
I want the name of the tool to extract the bering or the purchase link
How do you do the front and other side of the rear end?
Same procedure on both sides
how to diagnose bad axle bearing?how do I know if its going bad?
Is it the same for 3/4 ton Chevy express 2500 ?
Very similar! Thanks for watching!
i have a 2004 tahoe Z71 what is a reasonable price to replace my bearings rear and one in front? no time to do it my self
It should run between $250.00 and $325.00 US
Does the c-clip unscrew?
hi how can I replace 2015 suburban axel any help
Supposed to put loctite on that cross pin bolt when you put it back in.
exelente. grasias.
Why am I having a hell of a time with my c clips, was a bitch taking them off now axles don’t go in enough for c clips to go on.?
i wouldn't use a screw driver to pry the seal, just knock the cover left and right with a mallet and not risk a future leak.
This video is showing how to replace only the left rear side. What about the right rear side?
Its the same for the other side.
2CarPros Thanks guys for quick response. Your videos are great and will save me lot of $$$. Thanks again!!!
Thank you so much for watching!
Want to raise the rear of my 2015 tahoe
Thanks for sharin
Thanks for watching Derrick!
what wound cost be pls Help i have to do both sides to Sale my Truck get 2500 for it to pass code
I have a 2008 chevy Silverado 1500 you save me a bunny of money when I can do it my self what do I owe you thank you
What about a 2014 1500?????
Nice!
Thank you! Cheers!
All these new guys running these 24x14s will soon be seeing this problem on them half tons.
Yep. I replace them all the time on half tons. Thanks for watching!
No lube on sales???
Any body know what is behind that bearing?
abs reluctor ring assy
caddymech thanks !
they call it an abs tone ring also
What would indicate I'd need to replace rear bearings? I have a 07 Avalanche and I hear squeaking when pulling off and sometimes while driving.
Gerrendale Owens u-joint
Imagine having and using a bearing/SEAL installation kit on the bearing and then using a piece of flat stock for the seal install 🤦🏻♂️
Doesn’t look to hard actually I gotta leak somewhere on my rear axle on my 93 Sierra. This’ll b the next task followed my new U joints
Nope. You got this! Thanks for watching Luke!
Check your pion seal.its behind the drive shaft,check your rear end cover,
Why dont you loctite the pin bolt?
You spent about 2 minutes showing how to dump oil in the bearing to pre-lube it but didn't show us what you're talking about with the "one end being smaller" or this "small lip" you mentioned. You also never said anything about pre-lubing the new seal!
Red lock tite on the bolt that holds the pin
6:53 I'm pretty much a pro at Slide Hammers, know what I'm saying. Yes, now everyone understands no matter what the content, it can be sexual... I mean, sensual...
why the hell did these trucks still have drums?? 😂
For us that actually use these trucks for work and drive dirt and gravel roads the drum brakes hold up 500% better than rear disk in that cloud of dust dirt and mud.
@@KevinKieffer-r7e my truck with all 4 discs has held up just fine for “work and driving dirt and gravel roads”.
rayt replasement
what obout the other side
Why not do both sides while you're there lol
This vehicle is not from the northeast.
Nope. The desert. Thanks for watching!
Music is irritating & doesn't improve watching or learning experience. Good video excepting.........trash the music
Thank you for watching!
Is it the same if you have a posi track..