I made an ooopsie! You guys were right 1985 was the first year you could get EFI on a 5.0 as an option. 1986 it was standard equipment. Whoops haha. Apprecite the insight.
Ask around for an obd1 tech whos great with diagnostics. Bet the guys at your local ford dealer know of someone who does it on the side. Had an 87 G20 van that acted similar..once fixed it ran flawlessly for many yrs 0 issues. This way you dont throw parts at it like I did.
My one of my friends has a 85 f150 flare side that’s the efi that we rebuild at 18 and 19 years old and we did all the work on it but yes the efi started in 85 on trucks and 86 on the foxbodys fun facts of the day
I have an 86 f150 with the 5.0 EFI, I had tore it down to do head gaskets and valve cover gaskets. During disassembly I broke some coolant pipes and my power steering pump as well as having a stripped head stud and I'm so deep into it it's all overwhelming. To see you get stuff done on yours makes me happy and I wish I could do the same, mines been torn apart in the driveway for over a year now. Love the vids!!
I've got an 86 Eddie Bauer Bronco with the 5.0L EFI. I had lots of corroded/dryrotted wires on top of the motor, the sheathing wasn't good back then & the wires get green under the sheathing. I was testing voltages at the sensor & at the corresponding EEC computer pin, to see if it was having voltage drops in the wiring or connectors. A new main battery ground is also recommended. Also the distributors love to fail, & also the ignition switch in the column are known to go bad at this age. Replace every vacuum line, pull part the upper & lwr intake & replace the gasket. Clean out the fresh air intake in the cowl & behind the blower fan, it's a popular spot for rodents nests. Also, they run much better with a functional egr on them, better power midrange, and better fuel economy. I'm getting over 16mpg in my 86 Bronco. Pull your cowl off & see if the seam sealer has cracked, letting the water come in from the cracks.
Good job on the repair! Had 86 f250 HD with 6.9 international diesel. The motor was so heavy it squatted the front end after some time. So...a lift kit was the cure 😊. 4" in the front....2" in the rear on the massive dana 60 axle. Looking forward to seeing this truck more
Those were IH engines? Place I worked for back then got one new I was the delivery guy. Was surprised how well it moved out for being a diesel, would want to rev out like a gas engine. PRetty reliable, too.
Over the past 2 years I have fixed my 85 4x4 bull nose up. Everything new from a new 302 to new exhaust gas tank...new lines etc etc. The first 5 months of breaking my moter and parts in my truck would go from running/driving exactly how I envisanged....to randomly dying over and over. It seemed to not be getting gas....after several months of chasing this problem I randomly drilled a vent hole in my gas cap. 3 months of excellent trouble free driving. Hopefully the person that needs to read this has the same problem and it fixes your problem. In my build I went with a mechanical fuel pump ,carberator, and h.e.i. conversion. I have by passed the computer completely and that it what had confused my so much with my randomly sputtering and stopping issue.
I had an 88 bronco with the 5.7 and kept saying the TP sensor was bad, well after replacing 3 of them someone said it's something else that's the problem but making the TP sensor act up so after months of trying to figure it out in yanked the efi off and put a crate 5.8 with eldlebrock performer intake and carb with headers, ran great after that.
Whoa, this is intense! 😱 It’s always so tough when something goes wrong with a beloved vehicle like the Bullnose. I’m really curious to find out what the cause is and how it all played out. It’s clear you’ve put a lot of work into this, and I hope you figure out what happened. Wishing you the best of luck in getting it all back in shape! 🔧🚗
I would never have attempted repair on an EFI Bull. I hate, hate, HATE the early EFI from '86 clear through '95 and take any issues at all as an opportunity to carb swap. Good on ya for trying to keep this gem originalish, I could never.
Happy you fixed it. Had a 88 f150 with a similar problem, idles fine and drives great but once the engine is warm misfire only at low rpm. Tried everything I could in the Hanes or on forums and didn’t get it fixed, possibly something internal? Miss that truck a ton, made a lot of good memories with it
INjectors, CTS 7 MAF usually brought on those symptoms for me. Needs to be diagnosed though otherwise you keep throwing parts at it. Been there! Know anyone who can find you an old timer that knows OBD1 well?
I have an 86 F250 with 460 that came with 4 barrel. After pulling the carb to rebuild.. talking to a carb guy, the number of jets I'd need to buy to have on hand to properly tune, having to deal with a choke. I called FiTech and went EFI. I'm surprised you didn't swap intakes and put on a Sniper. HA
Just a tip with the haynes manual if you have an 1980 f100 it will.not be 100% on wiring colors and some functions.. as 80 was a bit different then the 81+ sorta one off year.. have foind that a few times in the last 10+yrs of owning my 80 f100 lol
I've found that many things on the 1980 f100 is different than other years. I have an 80 f100 my dad bought new that I drive now. A lot of the time when getting parts for it, they always gave us the wrong part the first time. Mine, luckily hasn't had any major issues besides regular wear and tear. It's been a great truck
If you have trouble with the ECM more that once, you may need to replace the starter solenoid with the proper one if it doesn't have the original. There is a diode inside it that without the diode it will fry part of the ECM.
5-speed was available with 5.0 in ‘86. I test drove one and couldn’t believe how much improved it was vs a 1980 302 I was driving at the time. I like this gen of F series trucks as they are handsome and have an excellent driving position. Here in the upper Midwest they have literally disappeared turning into iron oxide...
Would highly recommend a terminator x system for it, put one on my stock 86 fox and it fixed all my drive ability issues, lmr has has one for the 5.0 that’s pretty much plug and play.
Love the bullnose trucks, I have an original 86 base with the 300i6 and 4 speed that has 60k original miles. I’m currently getting ready to repaint it since it got caught outside in a hail storm and the paint fade is bad
So I was *just* dealing with an 18C code on my Bricknose. Oddly enough what fixed it was that I ran a brand new wire from the ECU to where the spout plug is (that you unplug to time the distributor). Just spliced it in between to essentially replace the wire (while keeping the spout connector functional). Not the best or most professional repair, but it works lol. My best guess is that it had a short somewhere in that wire between the ECU and the spout plug that was causing it to not function properly. It did the same thing your truck did, very rough start then it would somewhat even itself out. But in general, it ran like shit. Died on the road quite a few times. But yeah - if the problem comes back, check that wire lol.
Hearing it crank gave my flash backs to the 86’s we had. The biggest problems we had were fuel pumps, if you bypass the frame pump just put a high pressure from a 90 and up into it
Do NOT R134 convert. Propane runs in R-12 systems flawlessly, and it's colder than R134 could ever dream to be. It's super cheap, more environmentally friendly than any auto refrigerant ever, it's cheap, and it requires no modification whatsoever to an R-12 system. Did I mention it's cheap?
R-100 (aka canned computer duster) is a great replacement for R-12. It won’t get quite as cold as propane but it’s eco friendly and non flammable. It does have a different density (if that’s the right term) then R-12 so you’ll have to figure out how much to put in the system to correctly charge it
My 92 f150 was doing the same thing. It got so bad the truck wouldn’t even start. Chased ghosts for awhile and it turned out to be the ecu. At some point I’ll upgrade the truck to a sniper system. The OEM parts are getting harder to find and they are not programmable.
I had an 85 F250 granny 4sp 4x4 with a 5.0L. And a 86 Bronco with a a 5.0L. Both ran great. I actually ran a PCM for a 5.8L in my 85 trying to diag a issue (ended up being a clogged fuel filter), and it ran a lot better. I'm pretty sure the spark tables are a little hotter. The Bronco ended up with a 5.0L from a 2000 Explorer. Used the stock bronco intakes and the explorer longblock with the P heads. Had to run Ford racing headers to clear the spark plugs.
I don’t know how much well this would help you but I have a 95 Mustang GT it was doing the same shit but it turned out to be my distributor pick up but it’s a 302 car still OBD one car
This beyond opened my eyes to my 91 f150 that’s giving issues. 5.8L e4od, was having a problem where it would run bad when hot, traced it back to a bad ECM/ECU, replaced that and problem just now started back up. I didn’t even think to double check the wire harness. Maybe my problem was there the whole time.
Could also be the ignition module attached to the distributor. The thermal paste in behind the module dries up and it gets way too hot essentially frying the module and causing your engine to run like crap.
@ ironically already replaced that as that was my first initial thought. Will be tracing wires sometime this week as it’s technically the only thing I haven’t looked at
There are 3 capacitors in the ecm that leak because of age. If your lucky and catch them before they leak out and damage the traces on the board you can just replace the caps. If yours was likemine and burnt the board i had to replace my ecm. Mine is a 1991 bronco 5.8. Vacuum leaks are another issues those little brittle lines.
Wire in resistors for the egr position snsr along with the TAD & TAB that are for the smog pump. Look it up, you can stop that pesky MIL for the deletes.
Seems like a lot of 1980s vehicles have biodegradeable insulation on their wires. Probably the multiple bare wires were what caused the ECU to get fried... You might check to see if the PROM chip is socketed. If it is, you might be able to swap it into the '89 ECU and have the same timing curve, etc, that the original ECU had. I'd also look into finding a later engine harness, since it seems like the quality of wire improved after 1987 or so, at least in my experience. Maybe Junkyard Mook might still have the original harness from her '89 F150 and would be willing to sell it, if it's in decent condition. I know that she and Kevin went with a Sniper system on said truck either last year or in 2022.
Hey Craig have you ever ran across any of the late 80s early 90s Ford Bigfoot cruiser trucks. I've looked for one since I was sixteen with no luck. Not sure how rare they are but I've only ever seen 1 90ish ranger brand new on a dealer lot and 1 f150 driving on the road. Just curious if maybe it was location, since I'm in ohio.
I have an 86 with the efi having the same problem can’t even changing to gear cuz it dies I’ve changed basically everything I was told to change the selector valve under the truck just havent had the time to she’s been down a year now
I think it's interesting that we both have 86 Ford's that are both XLT Lariat's and both are the same exterior and interior colors Except mine is a F-150, has the 300 6 and is a short box
So thankful my Lexus oil changes are not expensive. Especially cause my filter is just the OEM Toyota filters which are $7 😂 my Duramax is a different story
Glad to see The Bull Nose back out on the road bro do you plan on getting new weather stripping so no water gets in dont want that bad boy rusting from the inside
Good afternoon craig, im gonna be starting the build on my 1974 ford Maverick and you're part if my inspiration to do so, thank you and merry Christmas
Put a Sniper EFI on it and please get wheels for it, those steel wheels don’t look good. You had nice wheels on it at one point and it looked amazing!!
I purchased my dad a 86 bullnose last year and the first thing we did after it had sat for 20+ years was rip off the EFI and put a carb setup on it..... thing ran like brand new as soon as we swapped to a carb and has ran great ever since.. the early EFI is shit
Unless you worked for a dealer only the 351 and 300 could get a zf5 The f150s were all M5od unless again you had dealer ties and could get the 88+ zf5 All 351s in f250s and 300s were zf5 and up
I had a 96 that would rev up especially in red lights almost rear ended a few cars no mechanic could figure it out only code throwing was o2 (had long tubes) and a water temp sensor well changed the temp sensor after like 4 different mechanics and problem went away 😂
I battled similar issues with my Bricknose. At this point I have 3 vacuum lines on the motor and 5 wires controlling the motor. My issue was always battling high idle probs. Now it runs perfectly with no CE lights. I also now know what every single wire and vacuum line does and what all the stuff I removed did. Keep up the great and motivational videos. I'm 65 and wish I could work as hard as you do!
Cool you’re trying to fix with stock parts but honestly, throw a Stinger PIMP plug n play megasquirt ecu in it and move on. Did this on my Foxbody SVO mustang and it was a night and day difference
Would love to buy the heat shield stuff but the nearest guy is 250 miles from what they're tracker says, kinda sucks that I cant buy from them directly.
How in the world do you have 224k subs when the average views are 20-25k and the comment section is always minimal, usually 200 comments or less per video. Where are the rest of your subs hiding? You should have 100-150k views. Something rotten in Denmark.
The 1985 model year was the first year for EFI on the bull nose. However it was only available with the 302 (5.0 L). The 300 in-line six didn't have EFI until '87 & the 351 & 460 still had carburetors until '88
I made an ooopsie! You guys were right 1985 was the first year you could get EFI on a 5.0 as an option. 1986 it was standard equipment. Whoops haha. Apprecite the insight.
I used to have that problem with my 92. It was probably the map sensor on yours.
Ask around for an obd1 tech whos great with diagnostics. Bet the guys at your local ford dealer know of someone who does it on the side.
Had an 87 G20 van that acted similar..once fixed it ran flawlessly for many yrs 0 issues. This way you dont throw parts at it like I did.
A friend had an 84 Bronco with EFI 302 in it.
Can't escape the critics always someone to correct someone worse than grammar nazis lol
My one of my friends has a 85 f150 flare side that’s the efi that we rebuild at 18 and 19 years old and we did all the work on it but yes the efi started in 85 on trucks and 86 on the foxbodys fun facts of the day
I have an 86 f150 with the 5.0 EFI, I had tore it down to do head gaskets and valve cover gaskets. During disassembly I broke some coolant pipes and my power steering pump as well as having a stripped head stud and I'm so deep into it it's all overwhelming. To see you get stuff done on yours makes me happy and I wish I could do the same, mines been torn apart in the driveway for over a year now. Love the vids!!
My new 83 F250 has a 460 and I’m learning the ways of the carburetor! 🛠️
I've got an 86 Eddie Bauer Bronco with the 5.0L EFI. I had lots of corroded/dryrotted wires on top of the motor, the sheathing wasn't good back then & the wires get green under the sheathing. I was testing voltages at the sensor & at the corresponding EEC computer pin, to see if it was having voltage drops in the wiring or connectors. A new main battery ground is also recommended. Also the distributors love to fail, & also the ignition switch in the column are known to go bad at this age. Replace every vacuum line, pull part the upper & lwr intake & replace the gasket. Clean out the fresh air intake in the cowl & behind the blower fan, it's a popular spot for rodents nests. Also, they run much better with a functional egr on them, better power midrange, and better fuel economy. I'm getting over 16mpg in my 86 Bronco. Pull your cowl off & see if the seam sealer has cracked, letting the water come in from the cracks.
Good job on the repair! Had 86 f250 HD with 6.9 international diesel. The motor was so heavy it squatted the front end after some time. So...a lift kit was the cure 😊. 4" in the front....2" in the rear on the massive dana 60 axle.
Looking forward to seeing this truck more
Those were IH engines? Place I worked for back then got one new I was the delivery guy.
Was surprised how well it moved out for being a diesel, would want to rev out like a gas engine.
PRetty reliable, too.
My favorite newer(ish) looking Fords, the bullnose. Hope to have one. But I'm good with my 83 Chevy and 89 5.7 swapped S10 (for now) haha
Over the past 2 years I have fixed my 85 4x4 bull nose up.
Everything new from a new 302 to new exhaust gas tank...new lines etc etc.
The first 5 months of breaking my moter and parts in my truck would go from running/driving exactly how I envisanged....to randomly dying over and over.
It seemed to not be getting gas....after several months of chasing this problem I randomly drilled a vent hole in my gas cap.
3 months of excellent trouble free driving.
Hopefully the person that needs to read this has the same problem and it fixes your problem.
In my build I went with a mechanical fuel pump ,carberator, and h.e.i. conversion.
I have by passed the computer completely and that it what had confused my so much with my randomly sputtering and stopping issue.
Appreciate the insight. I have a vented cap on all of my trucks to help alleviate this issue.
I had an 88 bronco with the 5.7 and kept saying the TP sensor was bad, well after replacing 3 of them someone said it's something else that's the problem but making the TP sensor act up so after months of trying to figure it out in yanked the efi off and put a crate 5.8 with eldlebrock performer intake and carb with headers, ran great after that.
Whoa, this is intense! 😱 It’s always so tough when something goes wrong with a beloved vehicle like the Bullnose. I’m really curious to find out what the cause is and how it all played out. It’s clear you’ve put a lot of work into this, and I hope you figure out what happened. Wishing you the best of luck in getting it all back in shape! 🔧🚗
I would never have attempted repair on an EFI Bull. I hate, hate, HATE the early EFI from '86 clear through '95 and take any issues at all as an opportunity to carb swap.
Good on ya for trying to keep this gem originalish, I could never.
agree not easy but workable I'm on 4 th or 5th
I plan to upgrade in the future for sure, just hate doing things twice. So this was a good band aid until we progress further with the build.
Stupid approach. This efi system couldn’t be simpler.
Happy you fixed it. Had a 88 f150 with a similar problem, idles fine and drives great but once the engine is warm misfire only at low rpm. Tried everything I could in the Hanes or on forums and didn’t get it fixed, possibly something internal? Miss that truck a ton, made a lot of good memories with it
INjectors, CTS 7 MAF usually brought on those symptoms for me. Needs to be diagnosed though otherwise you keep throwing parts at it. Been there!
Know anyone who can find you an old timer that knows OBD1 well?
Happy to see this thing back on the road!
I have an 86 F250 with 460 that came with 4 barrel. After pulling the carb to rebuild.. talking to a carb guy, the number of jets I'd need to buy to have on hand to properly tune, having to deal with a choke. I called FiTech and went EFI. I'm surprised you didn't swap intakes and put on a Sniper. HA
Just a tip with the haynes manual if you have an 1980 f100 it will.not be 100% on wiring colors and some functions.. as 80 was a bit different then the 81+ sorta one off year.. have foind that a few times in the last 10+yrs of owning my 80 f100 lol
I've found that many things on the 1980 f100 is different than other years. I have an 80 f100 my dad bought new that I drive now. A lot of the time when getting parts for it, they always gave us the wrong part the first time. Mine, luckily hasn't had any major issues besides regular wear and tear. It's been a great truck
@twinturbotony93 yep there a few different things mine is now siting on a 93 4x4 chassis so underneath is easy enough now for parts lol
ITs not the sheet metal rusting out that kills these trucks... its the wiring harnesses. And the Caps in the EEC for us EFI guys.
If you have trouble with the ECM more that once, you may need to replace the starter solenoid with the proper one if it doesn't have the original. There is a diode inside it that without the diode it will fry part of the ECM.
5-speed was available with 5.0 in ‘86. I test drove one and couldn’t believe how much improved it was vs a 1980 302 I was driving at the time. I like this gen of F series trucks as they are handsome and have an excellent driving position. Here in the upper Midwest they have literally disappeared turning into iron oxide...
Would highly recommend a terminator x system for it, put one on my stock 86 fox and it fixed all my drive ability issues, lmr has has one for the 5.0 that’s pretty much plug and play.
Love the bullnose trucks, I have an original 86 base with the 300i6 and 4 speed that has 60k original miles. I’m currently getting ready to repaint it since it got caught outside in a hail storm and the paint fade is bad
So I was *just* dealing with an 18C code on my Bricknose. Oddly enough what fixed it was that I ran a brand new wire from the ECU to where the spout plug is (that you unplug to time the distributor). Just spliced it in between to essentially replace the wire (while keeping the spout connector functional). Not the best or most professional repair, but it works lol. My best guess is that it had a short somewhere in that wire between the ECU and the spout plug that was causing it to not function properly. It did the same thing your truck did, very rough start then it would somewhat even itself out. But in general, it ran like shit. Died on the road quite a few times. But yeah - if the problem comes back, check that wire lol.
See thats the wild thing is that was one of the first things that I had checked and repaired. No change. Wish I got that lucky haha. Oh well.
@Thecraig909 Ah, gotcha lol. Well, hopefully it's all squared away now with the new ECU!
Hearing it crank gave my flash backs to the 86’s we had. The biggest problems we had were fuel pumps, if you bypass the frame pump just put a high pressure from a 90 and up into it
Do NOT R134 convert. Propane runs in R-12 systems flawlessly, and it's colder than R134 could ever dream to be. It's super cheap, more environmentally friendly than any auto refrigerant ever, it's cheap, and it requires no modification whatsoever to an R-12 system. Did I mention it's cheap?
r290?
@ Yessir, that's what they call it. Very common use in refrigeration, and no more flammable than R-134, R1234, etc.
And then, kaboom.... 😂jk but nice facts!
Note taken! thank you
R-100 (aka canned computer duster) is a great replacement for R-12. It won’t get quite as cold as propane but it’s eco friendly and non flammable. It does have a different density (if that’s the right term) then R-12 so you’ll have to figure out how much to put in the system to correctly charge it
My 92 f150 was doing the same thing. It got so bad the truck wouldn’t even start. Chased ghosts for awhile and it turned out to be the ecu. At some point I’ll upgrade the truck to a sniper system. The OEM parts are getting harder to find and they are not programmable.
New vintage USA makes some sweet gauges for those!
I had an 85 F250 granny 4sp 4x4 with a 5.0L. And a 86 Bronco with a a 5.0L. Both ran great. I actually ran a PCM for a 5.8L in my 85 trying to diag a issue (ended up being a clogged fuel filter), and it ran a lot better. I'm pretty sure the spark tables are a little hotter. The Bronco ended up with a 5.0L from a 2000 Explorer. Used the stock bronco intakes and the explorer longblock with the P heads. Had to run Ford racing headers to clear the spark plugs.
I don’t know how much well this would help you but I have a 95 Mustang GT it was doing the same shit but it turned out to be my distributor pick up but it’s a 302 car still OBD one car
I think you need a Obs F-150 next Craig.🤔
This beyond opened my eyes to my 91 f150 that’s giving issues. 5.8L e4od, was having a problem where it would run bad when hot, traced it back to a bad ECM/ECU, replaced that and problem just now started back up. I didn’t even think to double check the wire harness. Maybe my problem was there the whole time.
Could also be the ignition module attached to the distributor. The thermal paste in behind the module dries up and it gets way too hot essentially frying the module and causing your engine to run like crap.
@ ironically already replaced that as that was my first initial thought. Will be tracing wires sometime this week as it’s technically the only thing I haven’t looked at
@@Gradys_Garage Good luck!
My 84 bullnose I got rid off my ecm and pcm,went to a dura- spark system .never had a problem since,and still cruising with today.
The new computer has a different timing curve (for emissions) that could be causing your high RPM hesitation
I plan to either send my OG out to get repaired or buy another one of the correct computers because I'll admit it is definitely slower haha.
Glad to see the bullnose getting some attention
good video! and 85 f150 was first year for efi my 85 was factory efi i swapped it to carb.
Check the ecm open up and check the caps
There are 3 capacitors in the ecm that leak because of age. If your lucky and catch them before they leak out and damage the traces on the board you can just replace the caps. If yours was likemine and burnt the board i had to replace my ecm. Mine is a 1991 bronco 5.8. Vacuum leaks are another issues those little brittle lines.
That’s why I love my carb 😂
Wire in resistors for the egr position snsr along with the TAD & TAB that are for the smog pump. Look it up, you can stop that pesky MIL for the deletes.
Love to see you, paint it back to original tone
Get window seals then and repop badges willl make it look great.
85 efi was a option available on only the 5.0. 86 it wad standard equipment on only the 5.0.
Oof yep you're right thank you.
Seems like a lot of 1980s vehicles have biodegradeable insulation on their wires. Probably the multiple bare wires were what caused the ECU to get fried... You might check to see if the PROM chip is socketed. If it is, you might be able to swap it into the '89 ECU and have the same timing curve, etc, that the original ECU had. I'd also look into finding a later engine harness, since it seems like the quality of wire improved after 1987 or so, at least in my experience. Maybe Junkyard Mook might still have the original harness from her '89 F150 and would be willing to sell it, if it's in decent condition. I know that she and Kevin went with a Sniper system on said truck either last year or in 2022.
Mass air swap!!!!!
85 was the first year for EFI. My 85 came factory with a 5.0 aod and efi
Good truck
If it gives you any more issues just put the fox body engine and computer system in it
pointset and distributor and auto choke carb to the front. those were the daze.
We used to fight those computers. We’d grab spares from the junkyard and swap them out. Back when the yards were full of these.
they arent in yards like 20 yrs ago. Most are Appliances by now LOL
Hey Craig have you ever ran across any of the late 80s early 90s Ford Bigfoot cruiser trucks. I've looked for one since I was sixteen with no luck. Not sure how rare they are but I've only ever seen 1 90ish ranger brand new on a dealer lot and 1 f150 driving on the road. Just curious if maybe it was location, since I'm in ohio.
Great truck !!!!
I have an 86 with the efi having the same problem can’t even changing to gear cuz it dies I’ve changed basically everything I was told to change the selector valve under the truck just havent had the time to she’s been down a year now
All Advanced Auto is closing. I'm going to check them out haha. Washington, Oregon, California , Nevada, and New Mexico!! Take advantage of it I guess
Have you tried your throttle position sensor?😊
My 86 had that same issue ours ended up being loose wiring to the alternator
And ours was a short bed 4x4 Manual
Great stuff thanks
My foxbody had a super similar issue , it ended up being throttle body base gasket letting cooling into the intake
I think it's interesting that we both have 86 Ford's that are both XLT Lariat's and both are the same exterior and interior colors
Except mine is a F-150, has the 300 6 and is a short box
So thankful my Lexus oil changes are not expensive. Especially cause my filter is just the OEM Toyota filters which are $7 😂 my Duramax is a different story
If its got a EGR system check it out running bad would make your oil gritty and durty too.
Ignition control module goes bad on those models on those years tend to go bad quite often It’s just right on the bottom side of the distributor too
I have those same mud flaps on my 68 f250
1985 years as terrible year for ford wiring, I had a tempo and my grandpa had a bronco and f350 all had problems with fuseable links
Same car wash qweg was pushing kevins cali wagon that was a add oil type motor
Glad to see The Bull Nose back out on the road bro do you plan on getting new weather stripping so no water gets in dont want that bad boy rusting from the inside
I wish I knew more about those. I have a 1993 F150 with the 5.0. I put in a new computer and ignition module. Found out my distributor is bad now.
Put the poverty caps on it awsome ride best truck ever
My ford Granada mk2 has similar looking wiring cracked and disintegrating hope to get it fixed 2025
Had the same issue on my 86 got tired of it so i put a carburetor 😂
Good afternoon craig, im gonna be starting the build on my 1974 ford Maverick and you're part if my inspiration to do so, thank you and merry Christmas
Have you deleted the egr yet? Are you able to do that down in California?
Nope. Has to have all the smog stuff
Put a Sniper EFI on it and please get wheels for it, those steel wheels don’t look good. You had nice wheels on it at one point and it looked amazing!!
If it doesnt have a CARB EO# on the sniper it wont pass Ca smog
They are real strict out here
Is your local advance closing ? I seen they are closing 800ish stores my local one isn’t but just curious since the deals you got
I purchased my dad a 86 bullnose last year and the first thing we did after it had sat for 20+ years was rip off the EFI and put a carb setup on it..... thing ran like brand new as soon as we swapped to a carb and has ran great ever since.. the early EFI is shit
Thing needs to be painted
Don’t go to r134 run propane it works better and is much colder on the older systems
How did you figure out the overheating issue, because mine over heats. What core rad do you have on to
Answer to the title-> aftermarket......well the surging could be emi from that goofy wiring by the distributor.
Was almost right lol.
My 96 300 truck was having idle and running issues, ended up being the fuel pump
Ford had a better idea !
Unless you worked for a dealer only the 351 and 300 could get a zf5
The f150s were all M5od unless again you had dealer ties and could get the 88+ zf5
All 351s in f250s and 300s were zf5 and up
That truck needs the old wheels back on it,it looked better then I thank
I had a 96 that would rev up especially in red lights almost rear ended a few cars no mechanic could figure it out only code throwing was o2 (had long tubes) and a water temp sensor well changed the temp sensor after like 4 different mechanics and problem went away 😂
I battled similar issues with my Bricknose. At this point I have 3 vacuum lines on the motor and 5 wires controlling the motor. My issue was always battling high idle probs. Now it runs perfectly with no CE lights. I also now know what every single wire and vacuum line does and what all the stuff I removed did. Keep up the great and motivational videos. I'm 65 and wish I could work as hard as you do!
Cool you’re trying to fix with stock parts but honestly, throw a Stinger PIMP plug n play megasquirt ecu in it and move on. Did this on my Foxbody SVO mustang and it was a night and day difference
Would love to buy the heat shield stuff but the nearest guy is 250 miles from what they're tracker says, kinda sucks that I cant buy from them directly.
@Thecraig909 the floor mats you got are sick. What’s the guys name on marketplace? Want to pick up a pair!
SODA!!! 🤣🤣🤣
Exhaust, and leave it/enjoy!
Had to replace the ECU on my 94 351, so many blown capacitors. It would run ok, but shift terribly and got 6MPG. Computers, amirite?
How in the world do you have 224k subs when the average views are 20-25k and the comment section is always minimal, usually 200 comments or less per video. Where are the rest of your subs hiding? You should have 100-150k views. Something rotten in Denmark.
A 5.0 with idling issues....I thought that was part of the factory tune, lol.
351 and carb swap that junk. You will be much happier. Could swap in either an MAF or Stinger ECU, but probably still not worth it.
Advanced auto is moving out of the west coast completely.
All that water could be what happened to the computer ?
What happen to Meg....
Sorry Cwaig but, those mud flaps would look stupid on your truck.
Cutting out going uphill or low tank...dead giveaway.
The 1985 model year was the first year for EFI on the bull nose. However it was only available with the 302 (5.0 L). The 300 in-line six didn't have EFI until '87 & the 351 & 460 still had carburetors until '88
efi was CFI or throttlebody on the 84-5's
We don’t wanna see the bug we wanna see foxbody
Put some nice wheels on it.....Bullnose probably the best lookin Ford truck