Thanks for your video, very helpful. I like your tip on apply some grease to where the wheel attaches to the rotor. I used lithium grease then realized I have some brake caliper grease so I used that instead. Thanks again!
@@pinkcaddygarage267 i tried jamming a flathead in a notch between the wheel and rotor, that went nowhere. I did use some rust spray and after which I was able to get some wiggle on the wheel, thank God. The spray may have help but not certain. Thanks again!
Great video! it makes me want to do it myself. I looked at my car and could not figure out where to jack up the car and put the jack stand, Mercedes is different than most cars, is it possible for you to do a short video on that or just post a picture with the location of jack up points? Thank you.
John, I put my floor jack underneath the lower control arm on the beefiest part which is close to the tire. That way, when you jack it up it does not want to pivot on you and possibly fall off the jack. This is probably not an approved jacking point but it worked for me. Once the car was raised, I put the jackstands on the jacking points where you would put the factory jack to raise the car. Let me know if this isn’t clear.
@@pinkcaddygarage267 Thank you so much for the quick response! I uploaded some pictures here photos.app.goo.gl/bFvLMKBXVNLNosmJ9 Could you please help me to verify that is what you are talking about? 1) For the 1st, 2nd and 4th pictures , are those the jack point for the jack stand? 2) if so do I need an adaptor for my jack stand? (see picture 5), looks like the jack stand will not fit the jack point very well..., if I do need adaptor, what kind do you use? 3) is the 3rd picture what you were talking about for floor jack? ("lower control arm on the beefiest part ") Thanks again and I really appreciate it. John
You got it right! My hydraulic floor jack has a dish in the middle so it was a nice extra measure of safety for the rounded part of the lower control alarm to sit in the dish to help prevent slippage.
No the jack point has a pretty nice slotted area in it for the top of the jackstands go in you just need to keep turning it around till it looks like it has a good solid fit. At least that’s how it works for mine anyway.
Did you use any Jack stand adapters? Or did regular Jack stand worked for you under those plastic Jack points? I’m afraid I might break those Jack points if I don’t use correct Jack stands or adapter.
I was going to tell you “going to be a while” because Mercedes recommends changing the plugs every five years. Then I went and actually read the maintenance manual and it says every five years or 50,000 miles. I guess I’ll be doing that pretty soon because I’m already about 6000 miles past that point.
@@pinkcaddygarage267 I just changed mines at 100k. I enjoyed the video on the brake fluid flush. You make it look easy. What mileage should you flush the brake fluid ?
If memory serves, there are a couple of plastic tabs in the back that slip in to the corresponding slots, and then the front part just pushes down below the rubber seal. Sometimes the tabs are broken off, but as long as you get it pushed in below that rubber seal it’s not going to go anywhere.
Just curious, some DIY videos show that they pressure bleed using a power brake bleeding tool from the master cylinder which you didn’t do. Is that step not really needed? I was thinking of doing this but unsure whether that step is needed or not
I’ve only ever bled from the master cylinder when I was replacing the master cylinder. If you were just doing a complete flush I would not see the need to also bleed from the master cylinder.
@@pinkcaddygarage267 This is my very first foray into DIY and I came across your very informative videos. I also have a GL class like yours and have no clue where the power steering reservoir is 🤦🏻♂️
Technically, you are correct. Dot 4+, has a higher boiling point than Dot 4. However, Unless you are tracking your car, (not likely with a GLS450) Dot 4 should work fine. I will report back if I have any issues though.
@@stevsonsonsh.5995 .... Sticking to MB fluid spec. and you can't go wrong all around! I drive in high desert and never had a brake issue sticking to replacement Zimmermann rotors and hard to fine HP carbon ceramic pads and a full flush... costing less then $600 diy vs dealer rears at $1200 (never got a quote on fronts).
Thank you so much sir! Really appreciate these videos. I have an ML400 and I found your other oil change video very helpful as well!!!
Thanks for your video, very helpful. I like your tip on apply some grease to where the wheel attaches to the rotor. I used lithium grease then realized I have some brake caliper grease so I used that instead. Thanks again!
My pleasure! I literally had to sit on the ground and kick both sides of the tire alternately in order to get it to separate.
@@pinkcaddygarage267 i tried jamming a flathead in a notch between the wheel and rotor, that went nowhere. I did use some rust spray and after which I was able to get some wiggle on the wheel, thank God. The spray may have help but not certain. Thanks again!
Great video! it makes me want to do it myself. I looked at my car and could not figure out where to jack up the car and put the jack stand, Mercedes is different than most cars, is it possible for you to do a short video on that or just post a picture with the location of jack up points? Thank you.
John, I put my floor jack underneath the lower control arm on the beefiest part which is close to the tire. That way, when you jack it up it does not want to pivot on you and possibly fall off the jack. This is probably not an approved jacking point but it worked for me. Once the car was raised, I put the jackstands on the jacking points where you would put the factory jack to raise the car. Let me know if this isn’t clear.
@@pinkcaddygarage267 Thank you so much for the quick response!
I uploaded some pictures here
photos.app.goo.gl/bFvLMKBXVNLNosmJ9
Could you please help me to verify that is what you are talking about?
1) For the 1st, 2nd and 4th pictures , are those the jack point for the jack stand?
2) if so do I need an adaptor for my jack stand? (see picture 5), looks like the jack stand will not fit the jack point very well..., if I do need adaptor, what kind do you use?
3) is the 3rd picture what you were talking about for floor jack? ("lower control arm on the beefiest part ")
Thanks again and I really appreciate it.
John
You got it right! My hydraulic floor jack has a dish in the middle so it was a nice extra measure of safety for the rounded part of the lower control alarm to sit in the dish to help prevent slippage.
One more question: do you put anything between your jack stand and the jack point on the car?
No the jack point has a pretty nice slotted area in it for the top of the jackstands go in you just need to keep turning it around till it looks like it has a good solid fit. At least that’s how it works for mine anyway.
Thank you so much!
Did you use any Jack stand adapters? Or did regular Jack stand worked for you under those plastic Jack points? I’m afraid I might break those Jack points if I don’t use correct Jack stands or adapter.
Sorry for the late reply. I did not use adapters, just regular jackstands, done a few times with no issues so far.
good stuff . Looking good.
Can I have a link to the fluid changer on Amazon
Use the search term “Capri Tools CP21029 Vacuum Brake Bleeder”
How much fluid did you need to buy finally? I'm trying to guess the number of bottles I should buy for my Audi Q5
I think I ended up buying two bottles.
@@pinkcaddygarage267 Thank you. Your videos are awesome.
That capri must hooked to air compressor right? Cant do without aur compressor?
Correct.
hi i have question , when are you going make a video changing the plugs of a mercedes GLS450 👍
I was going to tell you “going to be a while” because Mercedes recommends changing the plugs every five years. Then I went and actually read the maintenance manual and it says every five years or 50,000 miles. I guess I’ll be doing that pretty soon because I’m already about 6000 miles past that point.
@@pinkcaddygarage267 I just changed mines at 100k. I enjoyed the video on the brake fluid flush. You make it look easy. What mileage should you flush the brake fluid ?
I don’t remember exactly what my book said but I think it was 50,000 miles. I ended up changing mine at about 52,000 I believe.
Hello how do you put the plastic cover back, do you need to remove the rubber parts?
If memory serves, there are a couple of plastic tabs in the back that slip in to the corresponding slots, and then the front part just pushes down below the rubber seal. Sometimes the tabs are broken off, but as long as you get it pushed in below that rubber seal it’s not going to go anywhere.
@@pinkcaddygarage267 thank you!
Just curious, some DIY videos show that they pressure bleed using a power brake bleeding tool from the master cylinder which you didn’t do. Is that step not really needed? I was thinking of doing this but unsure whether that step is needed or not
I’ve only ever bled from the master cylinder when I was replacing the master cylinder. If you were just doing a complete flush I would not see the need to also bleed from the master cylinder.
@@pinkcaddygarage267 Got it. That Capri power brake bleeder tool that you’re using, can I use that same tool to flush the power steering fluid?
Yes, it is a nice vacuum pump tool to have if you already have an air compressor to go along with it.
@@pinkcaddygarage267 Thank you! 👌
@@pinkcaddygarage267 This is my very first foray into DIY and I came across your very informative videos. I also have a GL class like yours and have no clue where the power steering reservoir is 🤦🏻♂️
Where did you get the plastic fittings?
If you mean in the ones that go on the vacuum pump, they all came with the pump as a kit.
Wrong brake fluid ...need Super Dot 4 or called Dot 4+
Technically, you are correct. Dot 4+, has a higher boiling point than Dot 4. However, Unless you are tracking your car, (not likely with a GLS450) Dot 4 should work fine. I will report back if I have any issues though.
What if you would use dot 5.1? Isn’t it going to make the brakes more efficient? Less prone to overheating?
@@stevsonsonsh.5995 .... Sticking to MB fluid spec. and you can't go wrong all around! I drive in high desert and never had a brake issue sticking to replacement Zimmermann rotors and hard to fine HP carbon ceramic pads and a full flush... costing less then $600 diy vs dealer rears at $1200 (never got a quote on fronts).
@@Chas_Reno $1200 per axle.... I did the same as you. Zimmermans and pentosin. $700 all in incl an oil change.