Just did my rotor replacement on my W166 ML350 and the front/rear videos are the best. So good, in fact, that I just placed an order with FCP Euro for an accessory belt/tensioner kit. I was not aware of FCP until I cam across these videos and now am a customer. Well done!
Just did the brakes and rotors today. I can confirm, you do not need to remove the caliper carrier. The rotor can be wiggled out gently. No need to remove the 18mm bolts!
I just replaced the pads on my W166 ML350. It was a pretty easy job. I have a couple of comments. The inside caliper bolts are not 15 mm. I had a 17 mm thin wrench. It seemed slightly loose, but I don't have a 16 mm so I can't be sure they aren't 16 mm. Also, as others have pointed out, the piston has to be depressed back into the caliper. I used a ratcheting tool. The piston doesn't have to be rotated. Aside from that, nothing was notable relative to any other time I've changed rear pads.
Excellent video EXCEPT you skipped the piston retraction (most important step I was interested in seeing). At the beginning you show a caliper press tool as being required, but from the video (5:39) it appears that these are the screw type. Screw type or compression? Help? Can you edit that step into your presentation?
Excellent video, with one additional suggestion: although you noted that the brake calipers were tough to fit over the new brake pad, you omitted the portion showing HOW to push the brake piston back into the caliper enough for the caliper to fit over the new pads. Unfortunately, you need a special tool for Mercedes brake pistons; this step, being crucial, could be a project-stopping problem, unless you have separate transportation until you get the tool. You'd have to stop the project while everything is disassembled. Even with the tool it requires some muscle, so I can't really think of an improvised method that would let you push the piston back to a place that would let you put the caliper over the new pads. So be warned, people, and get that tool and make sure it fits mercedes brakes BEFORE you start the job.
I can confirm it's the same process and tools for 2014 gl 63amg. The only extra step I add a little high temp brake grease to the shim / pad contact area, helps with prevention of squeal.
I have a 2015 ML400. Ran into snag on rear brakes. Didn’t have a caliper press and had to order it. Watched your video and saw the brake fitting position instruction. But did this with driver side rear brake disassembled. Wheel cylinder brake caliper extended all the way out. I’m worried I caused damage. I guess I’ll know when I get the retractor. Thanks for your video. Wish I had viewed it before starting the job. Live and learn.
You shot the piston out of your caliper lol? Well.. if you don’t want to bleed your brakes take a c clamp and push the piston back into the caliper, it will be extremely hard to set but once it’s in and set a little bit you’re good to go, or the easier way is take the caliper off and do the same thing.
I've got a x166 550. I want to upgrade to the GL 63 brakes, is it possible to upgrade? Obviously with the rotor, caliper and pads upgrade. Anything else to consider?
Why the Rear brakes squalling with all brand new Mercedes OEM parts on my W166 GLE400? I put brake paste on the back of the pads. There still squalling when it's cold outsight at a light pressure on the brakes coming to a stop. Once the rotors warm up the sounds goes away.
I think you need to put some brake lubricant/grease on the BACK of the brake pads and on the brake piston and caliper where they contact the brake pads. That's the tip I got today from the supervising mechanic when I did my rear brakes.
@@urlawyer I have to do rear brakes again (I did not even put 11k miles on them - all OEM parts) and the pads are done. I believe the pads were a defect from factory
Hi i have changed the front pads and sensor wire last week now just changed rear pads and sensor on the ml w166 but it is still saying check brake wear i have replaced the rear sensor wire twice but still saying check brake wear can you advise ? Thanks
Hi Deedee, often times you may need to use a scanner to reset the error code. Worth giving that a try, along with ensuring the sensors were plugged in correctly.
Great video!! Please show us how to change Nox censors and how to reset them. W166 or diesel engine have a common error of nox censor but cant find a good video on youtube.thanks!
I really should have searched this video BEFORE trying to do the job. I did find out about the service mode after realizing the piston wouldn't compress. However, by that time, I had already taken the caliper off. It didn't retract all the way and I couldn't easily compress the piston with a clamp (had brake reservoir open). There wasn't enough clearance to put the caliper back on. I thought i could "reset" by exiting fitting mode and re-entering fitting mode. Upon exiting fitting mode (with caliper loose), the piston extended itself until it flew off 😭 There is no stop for it. Be careful! DIY was a piece of cake on the front, now a shop is fixing my mistake in the rear 💀
I think service mode only retracts the emergency brake; it did not retract the brake pistons all the way even though I did it right at the start. You need the brake piston compression tool anyway.
Sir, your videos are a masterclass in how to show people how to do this work. Very nicely done.
Just did my rotor replacement on my W166 ML350 and the front/rear videos are the best. So good, in fact, that I just placed an order with FCP Euro for an accessory belt/tensioner kit. I was not aware of FCP until I cam across these videos and now am a customer. Well done!
Word of the wise from a dealer tech..the caliper carrier does not have to be removed to remove the brake rotor.
Does that mean only the two bolts holding the brake assembly need to be removed and The rest of the brake assembly will come off?
Can confirm. Wiggles right on out of there. Also, the calipers are spin-in retracting, like most rear calipers. Easy job.
Thank you! Just did this rotor change today and didn’t have to remove the carrier. Easy job! Thanks for the tip!
This was a great tip!
Just did the brakes and rotors today. I can confirm, you do not need to remove the caliper carrier. The rotor can be wiggled out gently. No need to remove the 18mm bolts!
The best video for a brake job on my ML400!
💙
Tip - if fitment menu doesn’t come up press the answer button first then the okay button. I kept getting the reset trip odometer screen initially.
Thanks for the tip of the drilled rotor!
I hear "Kyle Baskin" every time... DERN YOU TIGER KING!!!
I just replaced the pads on my W166 ML350. It was a pretty easy job. I have a couple of comments. The inside caliper bolts are not 15 mm. I had a 17 mm thin wrench. It seemed slightly loose, but I don't have a 16 mm so I can't be sure they aren't 16 mm. Also, as others have pointed out, the piston has to be depressed back into the caliper. I used a ratcheting tool. The piston doesn't have to be rotated. Aside from that, nothing was notable relative to any other time I've changed rear pads.
Excellent video EXCEPT you skipped the piston retraction (most important step I was interested in seeing). At the beginning you show a caliper press tool as being required, but from the video (5:39) it appears that these are the screw type. Screw type or compression? Help? Can you edit that step into your presentation?
Followed your instructions all the way and I have saved myself some kudos and, with a glass of chardonnay, feel very satisfied!
Thank you for doing these - very helpful - getting a caliper spreader was prolly the only extra tool - and even that isn't truly necessary.
Excellent work, Brendan!
Excellent video, with one additional suggestion: although you noted that the brake calipers were tough to fit over the new brake pad, you omitted the portion showing HOW to push the brake piston back into the caliper enough for the caliper to fit over the new pads. Unfortunately, you need a special tool for Mercedes brake pistons; this step, being crucial, could be a project-stopping problem, unless you have separate transportation until you get the tool. You'd have to stop the project while everything is disassembled. Even with the tool it requires some muscle, so I can't really think of an improvised method that would let you push the piston back to a place that would let you put the caliper over the new pads. So be warned, people, and get that tool and make sure it fits mercedes brakes BEFORE you start the job.
thanks for the professional video
I’m assuming since the calipers move by computer there’s no brake bleeding required?
I can confirm it's the same process and tools for 2014 gl 63amg. The only extra step I add a little high temp brake grease to the shim / pad contact area, helps with prevention of squeal.
Thank you so much!
Do you need to replace any screws/bolts or anything?
Professional explanation. Thank you!!!
Thanks for helping me today I real appreciate you❤❤❤
Awesome instructions and detail. thank you
Great video it helped a lot!
Glad it helped!
Does this apply to a 2015 GL63 AMG?
Very helpful! thx!!
Glad it was helpful!
Awesome video, thanks
Great video. Does the caliper piston need to be retracted manually?
I have a 2015 ML400. Ran into snag on rear brakes. Didn’t have a caliper press and had to order it. Watched your video and saw the brake fitting position instruction. But did this with driver side rear brake disassembled. Wheel cylinder brake caliper extended all the way out. I’m worried I caused damage. I guess I’ll know when I get the retractor. Thanks for your video. Wish I had viewed it before starting the job. Live and learn.
Happened to me as well. Luckily I had someone reset it and retract it back without damage. I hope it worked for you
You shot the piston out of your caliper lol? Well.. if you don’t want to bleed your brakes take a c clamp and push the piston back into the caliper, it will be extremely hard to set but once it’s in and set a little bit you’re good to go, or the easier way is take the caliper off and do the same thing.
Thanks for helping me today I real appreciate you
Do you leave the parking brake engage for front rotor and brake change or does the front also need to be in service mode?
If you have to regrease the pins which brake paste should be used. It’s not clear on the website which item to order.
Is it the same for W166 ML350?
Will any break grease work on MB pins?
how do you realign rear rotors to hub to get the t-screw and bolts back in, do I have to remove the brakes and caliper?
Good work air
Nice leason leaned.
Excellent!!!! Thank you!!
Glad it was helpful!
perfekt erklärt, schöne grüße aus Deutschland
Would these fit a 2018 gle 43 base model
Can you re-use the existing brake pad thickness sensor or do you need to buy a new one?
We always recommend replacements as often times they will fall apart upon removal due to all the heat and cooling they go through.
Might be a stupid question but once the brake is activated can the ignition be turned off?
Typically, the scan tool you are using will ask you to turn off your ignition until you are ready to reset the parking brake on your vehicle!
Can you put 345mm rotors in the back instead of 330mm on 2017 GLE 400?
You may have to change the rear caliper bracket, caliper, and potentially dust shield. Not something we have documented anywhere.
I've got a x166 550. I want to upgrade to the GL 63 brakes, is it possible to upgrade? Obviously with the rotor, caliper and pads upgrade. Anything else to consider?
Why the Rear brakes squalling with all brand new Mercedes OEM parts on my W166 GLE400? I put brake paste on the back of the pads. There still squalling when it's cold outsight at a light pressure on the brakes coming to a stop. Once the rotors warm up the sounds goes away.
I think you need to put some brake lubricant/grease on the BACK of the brake pads and on the brake piston and caliper where they contact the brake pads. That's the tip I got today from the supervising mechanic when I did my rear brakes.
@@urlawyer I have to do rear brakes again (I did not even put 11k miles on them - all OEM parts) and the pads are done. I believe the pads were a defect from factory
Any cross drilled option for 345 mm?
Can you do timing belt DIY for 1992-1995 Audi UrS4/S6 plz.
Güzel dostum aynen devam iyi işler.
You didn't add anti seize to the brake tabs. Also, does the Benz not have floats that need attention?
Is the caliber push in or twist in?
The piston on the caliper is to be pushed in!
Hi i have changed the front pads and sensor wire last week now just changed rear pads and sensor on the ml w166 but it is still saying check brake wear i have replaced the rear sensor wire twice but still saying check brake wear can you advise ? Thanks
Hi Deedee, often times you may need to use a scanner to reset the error code. Worth giving that a try, along with ensuring the sensors were plugged in correctly.
@@fcpeuro thanks for your reply
Great video!! Please show us how to change Nox censors and how to reset them. W166 or diesel engine have a common error of nox censor but cant find a good video on youtube.thanks!
thank you, very helpful
Thanks for helping me to❤
you might want to re-check the bracket bolt spec. as stated in the video to be 55NM, I believe is incorrect.
Whst is the correct one?
good info
Thanks.
😎
Thank you for this, it was a huge help in me changing the brakes on my ML 550.😊
Done ✔️ thanks
main part missed - piston press tool
I really should have searched this video BEFORE trying to do the job. I did find out about the service mode after realizing the piston wouldn't compress. However, by that time, I had already taken the caliper off. It didn't retract all the way and I couldn't easily compress the piston with a clamp (had brake reservoir open). There wasn't enough clearance to put the caliper back on. I thought i could "reset" by exiting fitting mode and re-entering fitting mode. Upon exiting fitting mode (with caliper loose), the piston extended itself until it flew off 😭 There is no stop for it. Be careful! DIY was a piece of cake on the front, now a shop is fixing my mistake in the rear 💀
😢
I think service mode only retracts the emergency brake; it did not retract the brake pistons all the way even though I did it right at the start. You need the brake piston compression tool anyway.
Super!
ha ha I din't know MB had onboard control of the eEBrake
the brake pads removal tools ARE 13mm wrench/socket and 17 mm wrench NOT 15!!! Please DO NOT CONFUSE people!!! Thanks.
Disliking this video because he fails to show how to retract the caliper, which was the main reason why I clicked to begin with.
It’s the first thing he shows. lol pay more attention
Thanks for helping me today I real appreciate you❤❤❤
Thanks your vid pal 😊