@Dave Moss Tuning, I see you keep adding preload based on the fork travel that is used, but shouldnt he get stiffer springs? Fork preload defines where the suspension sits because of the weight of the rider, fork bottoming is linked to spring rate combined wits rider skill.
I look at the range of total adjustment eg: 18 complete revolutions. Then via dial in, see where the rider ends up in the range. At 15 turns, clearly the rider needs to upgrade to stronger springs and the guesstimate is then based on rider skill progression for an accurate recommendation. Similarly, the reverse would be true if two turns of preload did not allow the rider to get into the ideal travel zone.
Spring rate for weight, preload is a bandaid for incorrect spring rate. If you run max preload you need new springs to suit your weight instead. Compression simply controls how fast or slow the fork will compress.
When bottoming out, you should place spring with a higher spring rate. By adding all this preload, the rider sag of the front gets less, which means the front of the bike is a bit higher and these bikes like to run wide already out of turn by default. It is dangerous to bottom out and adding preload helps a bit, but it is not how this should be solved. At a trackday you don't just swop springs, but it would be nice if this was mentioned on the video.
I use preload to get the cable tie on the 15-20mm range from bottom out. Then I will use compression to get around the 10mm mark. If bottoming keeps being repeated, I will add two turns of preload and then two clicks of compression. At 4 turns from maximum preload and 4 clicks or 1/2 a turn from maximum compression, those settings trigger the upgrade conversation for springs, oil, oil volume and revalving.
@CatalystReactionSBW I am no specialist, but I don't see how preload and compression help in preventing bottoming out. I might take a little bit more time to bottom out with more preload and compression under heavy breaking, but that is really a band aid for springs that are to soft, because at the end, under braking load, we are compressing a spring that has an X spring rate. With adding more and more preload, you start to ignore rider sag settings at some point, or is this less critical because you are on the track and not on the road? Am I being to theoretical or do I miss something in the big picture?
@CatalystReactionSBW thanks! If I set my preload based on riding, ie making sure the zip tie is around 15-20 mm ,rather than setting sag using the traditional method, is it the same thing and just as good?
Looks more like a birthmark - but is that all you got from this video?? What I can see, is Dave performing some sort of magic, maybe an exorcism for all I know, and he transfers a death trap into the best ride this man ever had. Yeah - DEATH trap! Bottoming out your forks is begging for disaster. ABS might save your day, unless you hit anything higher that what you braked for. Did you see Dave after the first laps doing one push on the forks, and telling immediately how bad it was? I could see myself that it was soft, but he was talking about the rebound. That is more like a feel, and you need to try a lot of different options to find out on your own bike. Dave, however is obviously very methodical about this. He doesn´t even know the rider beforehand, yet he sets a few base lines according to what he can see and go from there. He also paid close attention to his tires if you noticed. The wear pattern will tell a lot about suspension or inflation problems. So, was it a bruise or not? I don´t know, and I don´t care, it has nothing to do with what this video is about. If you wanna learn about bruises, go watch a medical channel of some sort...
Front is about brake dive so you add preload as needed. Rear is about swing arm angle and travel used, so you set preload to optimize shock travel. That manages weight transfer fore and aft very efficiently. Once done and travel is optimized you can measure sag to see what YOU needed for your year, make and model motorcycle.
@@catalystreactionsbwadding preload to the forks only raises the front, screwing up the geometry. It does nothing for stiffening the front. In this case, the springs are just too soft.
@6114457 For many riders, the added stability from a raised front crates more confidence under braking. Then some will choose to keep that preload setting and lower the front 2mm to get the turn in as before. We are never stuck - we are only limited by knowledge and understanding.
@@catalystreactionsbw ?? In the video you talked about the forks being too soft and then adding preload. Adding preload does nothing to solve the problem. Raising the front for srabilty wasn't discussed at all. Please, stop misleading people by continuing to claim that preload make suspension stiffer.
Dave Moss, always getting shit done! Wish you lived in Florida.
@Dave Moss Tuning, I see you keep adding preload based on the fork travel that is used, but shouldnt he get stiffer springs? Fork preload defines where the suspension sits because of the weight of the rider, fork bottoming is linked to spring rate combined wits rider skill.
I look at the range of total adjustment eg: 18 complete revolutions. Then via dial in, see where the rider ends up in the range. At 15 turns, clearly the rider needs to upgrade to stronger springs and the guesstimate is then based on rider skill progression for an accurate recommendation. Similarly, the reverse would be true if two turns of preload did not allow the rider to get into the ideal travel zone.
Nice job ! Would have double checked preload first on both sides 😅
How do you determine whether to add pre load or compression when the fork travel is approaching bottoming?
Spring rate for weight, preload is a bandaid for incorrect spring rate. If you run max preload you need new springs to suit your weight instead. Compression simply controls how fast or slow the fork will compress.
@@LinkinMcOwnage And oil age.
When bottoming out, you should place spring with a higher spring rate. By adding all this preload, the rider sag of the front gets less, which means the front of the bike is a bit higher and these bikes like to run wide already out of turn by default.
It is dangerous to bottom out and adding preload helps a bit, but it is not how this should be solved.
At a trackday you don't just swop springs, but it would be nice if this was mentioned on the video.
I use preload to get the cable tie on the 15-20mm range from bottom out. Then I will use compression to get around the 10mm mark. If bottoming keeps being repeated, I will add two turns of preload and then two clicks of compression. At 4 turns from maximum preload and 4 clicks or 1/2 a turn from maximum compression, those settings trigger the upgrade conversation for springs, oil, oil volume and revalving.
@CatalystReactionSBW I am no specialist, but I don't see how preload and compression help in preventing bottoming out. I might take a little bit more time to bottom out with more preload and compression under heavy breaking, but that is really a band aid for springs that are to soft, because at the end, under braking load, we are compressing a spring that has an X spring rate.
With adding more and more preload, you start to ignore rider sag settings at some point, or is this less critical because you are on the track and not on the road?
Am I being to theoretical or do I miss something in the big picture?
How much fork travel should I be ideally using for fast canyon riding on less than smooth roads? 2005 R6. Thanks for the Informative video!
Thank for your kind words. Ideal if 15-20mm consistently from the bottom of the chrome tube.
@CatalystReactionSBW thanks! If I set my preload based on riding, ie making sure the zip tie is around 15-20 mm ,rather than setting sag using the traditional method, is it the same thing and just as good?
@Rangeman001 Yes, then when you have travel optimized, record front and rear sag numbers to see what you needed for that year make and model.
Does the rider have a TH-cam channel, be good to see the improvement in feel after those sessions.
I do not believe so.....
@CatalystReactionSBW what's his channel called please?.I have seen your videos and I just wondered how the bike handles after?.ps nice Job.
Dam😮😫 this guy has a pretty good bruise on his left leg.
Looks more like a birthmark - but is that all you got from this video??
What I can see, is Dave performing some sort of magic, maybe an exorcism for all I know, and he transfers a death trap into the best ride this man ever had. Yeah - DEATH trap! Bottoming out your forks is begging for disaster. ABS might save your day, unless you hit anything higher that what you braked for.
Did you see Dave after the first laps doing one push on the forks, and telling immediately how bad it was? I could see myself that it was soft, but he was talking about the rebound. That is more like a feel, and you need to try a lot of different options to find out on your own bike. Dave, however is obviously very methodical about this. He doesn´t even know the rider beforehand, yet he sets a few base lines according to what he can see and go from there. He also paid close attention to his tires if you noticed. The wear pattern will tell a lot about suspension or inflation problems.
So, was it a bruise or not? I don´t know, and I don´t care, it has nothing to do with what this video is about. If you wanna learn about bruises, go watch a medical channel of some sort...
@@olenilsen4660 Well said!
@@olenilsen4660😊
@@olenilsen4660 I think it’s fine that he mentions a bruise…
When adding front preload should add also at the back ? Otherwise the static sag gets out of balance.
Front is about brake dive so you add preload as needed. Rear is about swing arm angle and travel used, so you set preload to optimize shock travel. That manages weight transfer fore and aft very efficiently. Once done and travel is optimized you can measure sag to see what YOU needed for your year, make and model motorcycle.
@@catalystreactionsbw Thanks Dave
@@catalystreactionsbwadding preload to the forks only raises the front, screwing up the geometry. It does nothing for stiffening the front. In this case, the springs are just too soft.
@6114457 For many riders, the added stability from a raised front crates more confidence under braking. Then some will choose to keep that preload setting and lower the front 2mm to get the turn in as before. We are never stuck - we are only limited by knowledge and understanding.
@@catalystreactionsbw ?? In the video you talked about the forks being too soft and then adding preload. Adding preload does nothing to solve the problem. Raising the front for srabilty wasn't discussed at all. Please, stop misleading people by continuing to claim that preload make suspension stiffer.
I love these bikes, wish mine had Ohlins :(
The only rule you need to know is, don't let Dave touch your bike!
Huh???
Someone sounds salty about something