How To Build A Large Raised Garden Bed Out of Wood and Corrugated Steel!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 มี.ค. 2022
- In this video I show you how to build a raised garden bed that looks good, is strong, functional, and easy to build. This is not the cheapest build but it is relatively inexpensive considering how large and well built it is. I say relatively because it does cost more than some of my smaller beds but it will last a very long time and will save money in the long run. The materials I used were combined for strength and longevity, but also to help keep the costs down. I also show how to save a fortune filling it. This is incredibly easy and fast to build so you can be growing your favorite fruits and vegetables in no time! I have all of the materials I used down below.
Supplies Used In the Video:
Dewalt Drill and Impact Combo Kit: amzn.to/3qh2Tzl
Dewalt DWS779 Sliding Miter Saw: amzn.to/369ckKr
1" Metal to Wood Roofing Screws: amzn.to/3ijxOGQ
Kreg Pocket Hole Screw Kit:amzn.to/37Jmz8L
#8 x 1-5/8" Inch Exterior Screws: amzn.to/3JHkxqd
3x 2.16-ft x 8-ft Corrugated Silver Steel Roof Panel: Local Store
9x 2x4x8's: Local Store
4x 1x4x8's: Local Store
Thank you for watching and for subscribing. You can support the channel at no cost to you by using one of the above affiliate links. This helps support the channel for new content!
Blessings,
Adam
How To Home assumes no liability for damage or injury. How To Home highly recommends using proper safety procedures and professionals when needed. Our content is for entertainment purposes only. No information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not How To Home. How To Home will not be held liable for any negligent or accidental damage or injury resulting from equipment, tools, electrical, fire, electronics or any items contained in this video. Attempt projects and repairs at your own risk. - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
I made some nearly identical boxes without having seen this video. I have one critique: buy a roll of galvanized flashing and cut four strips of it the same height as your galvanized roofing. Bend them into "V" shapes and place them behind each corner seam behind the roofing panels. This will ensure that any moisture from the dirt doesn't seep into the wood from the gaps at the seams. It only costs a few bucks for a big 50' roll, and it will make a difference over several years.
Saw someone say just do a bead of silicone
Dumb question but how do I "stick" the galvanized flashing on the sides? Just nail it in?
It is adhesive!@@johnred6768
Yup i thought of this after I filled with dirt. I was rushing and excited but the gaps did worry me. Because it's corregated steel the gaps are kind of significant. Silicone wouldnt work to fill the gaps
@@Augustin54because of the nature of the corrugated steel the gaps are too significant to use a bead of silicone
My wife and I built 4 of these using the information in this video. It was fairly easy for someone who is not a builder. We have had a number of complements on the raised beds. We are going to build 2 more.
Bought all the supplies yesterday, building it this week, the cost was about $200 now. Still a great deal on a great looking and durable raised bed! Thanks!
Awesome video. Thanks.
I’ve been looking at making a bed like this. Love the look. Probably will stain the wood so it matches the house.
I’ve seen beds stained a cherry color with a black cage with chicken wire on top. Looked really nice.
I’ll have to build a cage to keep the deer out. Making one right now for a much smaller bed I just finished.
So rewarding making raised beds yourself.
I’ve got all the materials to do one of these in a 4x3 size, on the back two corners I’m going to use 6’ 2x4’s and attach a trellis screen between those two, with a 2x4 across the top for stability. Thank you for giving me several ideas to make my own inexpensive garden beds.
Almost the same way I did it, except i used L flashing on the corners to prevent dirt leakage and rot on the wood where the sheet metal corners have fairly significant gaps.
Super helpful video! My husband is going to modify the design slightly to make 1' tall beds for our little ones' to have their own garden boxes, and this is just what we needed to get a design plan in place and make it happen!
I made very similar beds to this video in 2019 and they are still holding up great! I recommend the extra height (the width of the panel) as it is so much easier on your back!
really nice! The only change I might make to my build is to staple some galvanized screen on the bottom to keep gophers out (optional if you have a gopher/mole issue) -nice job!
Thanks for making this, my mothers been wanting raised beds so she doesn’t have to bend over as much because of her back, now I can build some of these for here
Thank you, I really like this video, this is exactly what I was looking for, I am going to start building my raised bed following your instructions.
That looks great. Your presentation is excellent. Thank you for posting such and informative video.
Thanks for the video, I built one cost was about 130. Your video was helpful! Now to fill the sucker!
Nice! Thanks. That was very helpful and informative
Thank you!!! Going to be building a couple of these here soon!
Building this now and we're really excited. The#10 1-5/8 screws are too short for the 2x4's. The Kreg manual recommends 2-1/2 in long fasteners.
For the fill of the raised bed I have access to free wood chips so I have used those to fill my beds before adding the dirt
Very nice raised planters! Do you happen to know what gauge the steel panels are? It looks very light duty, so I'm wondering if the panels might bow out when all the organic fill expands from heavy rains and/or frost expansion if you live in a four season climate. This would be more likely on the lower half of the planter. What are your thoughts on this?
Thanks! We decided to build 12 of these bad boys, your plans were our final choice to design our garden.
You are very welcome! Really glad to hear you liked them. Do you think they are easy enough for anyone to build or do you think if I made plans for them that they would be beneficial? Thanks a lot for the feedback and the Super Thanks!
@@HowToHomeDIY yes, please make plans
Great job. I have to build a few beds for a local Garden Club. I'm going to try your method with the pocket screws.
This build is beautiful and aesthetically pleasing.
Glad you like it. We are very happy with it. Thanks a lot for the feedback!
I made similar beds using galvanized tin roofing a few years ago. I did one thing different as I cut the tin across the wavy edges and arranged the sheets in vertical waves (overlaping the curves). This did make it more work for me but I felt that it made the metal stronger. Hopefully, the wood takes much longer to rot and I get more use from the beds before reworking.
Nice build, it looks really nice. You are going to have a bit of soil settling as those leaves decompose. I washed the bed down after the first 6 inches of soil was added to fill in all the gaps below. Still had settling after the planting season.
Excellent! I have metal trailer skirting that I am going to use for raised beds and this gives me good ideas on how to put the bed together!!
That should work! And definitely save some money! I am glad it was able to give you some ideas. Enjoy the build Lynda!
@@HowToHomeDIY thanks I will try. Won't be an easy job.
awesome video i'm excited to try this
Great looking raised beds, thanks. I find the metal rusts over time, but if you don't care it's fine. You might want to use "colored roofing" that would last longer before rusting. And in my area, I put in 1/4 inch screen mesh at the bottom to stop voles from tunneling in and eating my root vegies.
The silver galv is $18/sheet. The painted is $36/sheet. If you're making multiple beds the cost might come into play. At that point you mine as well a Vego or Birdies bed and save all the effort
Great video!! I built about 5 of these about 5 years ago. This year I noticed the metal is rusting from the inside and is now showing on the outside. I would recommend something to protect the metal. Not sure what that is--thinking rustoleum. I'll keep looking on TH-cam to see what others are doing.
This is great! Love it. Thinking of using panels from an old tin metal shed. Should work great! Love and blessings!
Thank you very much! Really glad to hear that you like it. That should definitely work really well and save a nice chunk of change! Thanks a lot for the feedback. Love and blessings!
Are yours rusty? I was thinking about the same thing, but the only used ones I can find are rusty.
@@annhett I am not sure what you mean by rusty and what material you have. Most metal sheds never rust.... They just get bent sliding doors and wind damage. I am talking about those common sheds with the noisy sliding doors. Then again, I can't see how rust would matter anyhow. Maybe just a little higher iron count in your broccoli? It should be perfectly safe considering the soil and stuff everything grows in contains iron. Plus, plant's roots are selective and filter impurities.
Very similar to my bed design that I built 6 of. I used raw corrugated steel for the metal, and 6x6's for the corners. I sent the corner pieces through the table saw so that non of the wood is in direct contact with soil, like your. Simple design that will last for a long time.
You forgot to mention that over time, the soil level will drop considerably, due to the logs and branches breaking down. A lot of people are not capable of figuring that out.
Good job!!
You are right about that. Was adding some soil to mine today actually. Thanks for the feedback!
@@HowToHomeDIY I have not seen this anywhere, but I feel it may be a very beneficial additive to your specific situation. Since you have so much wood in the bottom of your beds that "needs" to break down, you may consider brewing up a batch of compost tea that is fed specifically for fungus, and then apply that to the bed. Wood breaks down mainly through fungal activity, and promoting that activity could possibly make more nutrients available in your soil faster. Plus, having all the additional fungus in your soil certainly will not hurt anything.
@@dropndeal The nitrogen in not being "stripped" away. The wood is just going to hold the nitrogen while decomposition takes place, and then it will be released back into the soil and be available when the wood is broken down. Only the nitrogen directly next to the wood will be sequestered during the process, so you do not need to be completely worried about the nitrogen being "burnt off" in the process. Soil biology is a fascinating topic, with millions and millions of organisms helping us out!! I am pleased to see people thinking about what happens in their soil that affects their plants.
A little involved and being in the city a little not possible. But turned out great. Thank you!
Excellent design - really like using pocket screws - lends some strength.
Glad you liked it! It is a strong build. Thanks a lot for the feedback!
thank you, very motivational.
We have just build a similar raised bed from heavy recycled plastic sheeting, and laying a piece of thick weedcloth on the bottom before filling in with dirt.
Very cool. You may have inspired me to get off my lazy butt and do something in the garden. :)
Love to hear it! The work is definitely worth it considering what you get from it. We had salads tonight, much of it from the garden. Very good! Thanks a lot for the feedback. Now get outside and plant something! 😂
Great video. What kind and length of screws did you use for the pocket holes?
Thanks!
Brilliant design. Minimal materials! Well done again!
Thanks a lot Lenny. We really like it and already have it full of plants. Looking forward to harvest time! Thanks a lot for the feedback!
Can you also list what size drill bits and exact length of metals and wood I'm very new to all this my husband passed away last year he was the one that would do this or teach me so I really need help and I appreciate you for these videos
I built 9 of these 8ft x3ft x 2ft boxes. Paid $210 for all the material used from Craigslist!! Cost me another $117 to fill with dirt and mushroom compost with wood logs on the bottom!
Should pocket screw the top boards to each other too, not just the sides. Also, I would use 2-by lumber on the top
I have a corrugated steel bed. They steel heats up during the summer and the soil dries out very quickly. The soil has to watered almost daily. It is a pain in the neck but I do not have to bend over when weeding or planting.
Can you please provide exact measurements of the wood cuts
Thank you
Looks very nice..Would you tell me what type of wood planks you used? Thanks
Thanx dude!
I built 2 of these 2 summers ago I did the same thing wood first 6 couple scoops of dirt then 2 bags of cow manure spread over the top then more dirt till it was mounded up over.
due to covid and everything we didn't plant until last year we had a good crop its kind of like a Hugelkultur Raised Bed Garden
Awesome! Do you have an idea what you will be planting this year?
@@HowToHomeDIY nope no idea some tomato plants probably not really thinking about this year still trying to eat last yrs cucumber and tomato's. we canned a bunch of it
What do you think about using 5mm thick polypropylene sheets instead of galvanized steel sheets?
Do you need to stain the wood frame? Also do you need to ensure the logs you placed at the bottom of the bed are seasoned or unseasoned? Would there be any risk to the garden/plants/veggies if the logs have insects and stuff in them? I had a lot of down trees on my property but they've been sitting for a long time. Are fresh lawn clippings better or old? Thanks!
Use ground contact rated lumber and there is no need for further treatment.
Have you ever thought of drilling the pocket holes from the outside so when it does rot, it is easier to swap out?
Is the supports 19" or should they be 21", just checking. thanks great video.
That miter saw table you made that yourself and if yes would you mind sharing with me please how you did this or is this in another video?
“No need to over do it with the screws”
Over does it. 😂😂🎉
How did I over do it?
Probably a dumb question, but Instead of leaves, what if I used grass clippings? We don't have many trees, but we have a big yard and I often have to sweep it and end up having to find someplace to dumb the lawn sweeper and let the piles of clippings break down for the rest of the year. Seems like that might make for a good compost best.
I realize it is nice to hide the pocket holes, but wouldn't the joint be stronger if the pocket holes were on the outside considering the force is outward from the soil in the garden?
We add hardware cloth to the bottom to keep critters out (moles and voles, etc.)
Sounds like a great idea!
What is that magical magnetic bracelet you have on?
what drill bit size do you use for the pocket holes?
I'm building two 4x12 beds with this design. I used the cheap doug fir. What would you suggest to use as a sealer to help it last longer?
I saw on another video, raw lin seed oil if your not using treated wood.
The 1x4 on top, is it centered on the 2x4? Slightly to one side or another? Doing some drawings cause I’m planning on building this into a sub irrigated wicking bed/planter thing pond liner and such, one feature I’m adding to the inside is a place to add a pvc or conduit trellis/cage (removable) but just trying to figure the location of that firming board for my drawings to see if I need to adjust for that inside clamp and conduit/pvc
Also, thank you for the video.
Love this build! What type of plants are you considering planting in there?
Hey Gary, for this particular bed, currently the majority of it is mixed bell peppers. I also planted staggered rows of sugar snap peas and a staggered row of melting peas that will climb up a trellis. Carrots. And on the main trellis I planted 3 crimson watermelon seedlings along the northern 4ft end and planted 2 mounds of sugar baby watermelon seeds in between but staggered out the crimson seedlings for a potential successive harvest. So quite a bit can fit in it. I am glad you liked it and really appreciate the feedback!
Best part of my job I can get all the dirt I want
Where did you get your pocket hole jig?
What gauge of corrugated steel?
Can you list the length of the cuts please? Great Video!
and how many of each cut you need?
Are you using 2" screws for the corners?
Lots of comments have centered on PT (PRESSURE TREATED) LUMBER and whether it's safe to use. Here's my take;
Years ago, PT lumber was made with some pretty harsh chemicals. Today, they're much "safer", but still not ideal for contact with food.
This design is GOOD because THE WOOD DOESN'T CONTACT THE SOIL, making it a moot point.
I'm purposely using reclaimed PT Lumber and reclaimed galvanized roofing sheet metal in my boxes because of the cost savings and my desire to RE-USE things whenever possible.
What really affects your veggies is the SOIL and WATER. Not the frame or metal.
Being self-sufficient includes using your own brain power as much as possible as you save money and build something that lasts.
looking to build something similar and this was very helpful. For the 2x4's, how long would you expect them to last before starting to rot? I like how this build protects them all from the soil itself so may help the wood structure last longer. I expect using 2x4 would be quite a bit cheaper but would you ever suggest using something like cedar in place of standard 2x4's?
It all just depends on how much you want to spend. Cedar is awesome and I have used it for some of my other beds. But one this big it would be very expensive.
Use pressure treated, ground contact lumber. It will still rot eventually, but non-treated will disintegrate within 12-18 months with ground contact, and/or be full of termites.
suuuuuuuper tk u
Do you think it would be necessary to install a middle brace for added stability against bowing?
YES. I built this last year and kick myself for not doing that. Use "Simpson Strapping" for the bottom, center, and a piece of 1x4 cedar for the top
The predrilled pocket holes are nice, but don't you risk screws coming loose weaking the frame? Great design though
No. It is quite strong.
I'm in the Texas Hill Counrty and I have a BUNCH of cedar trees....can I use cedar to fill the lower parts of the planter bed? I know it's rot resistant so I don't know if that will hurt my gardening going forward.
I'm here in Texas, too, and have cedars on our land as well. I would Definitely use Cedar to build the bed frames... but not to fill them up. They just last too long, are full of flammable resins, and thus are worth more than normal wood scraps.
I save all the cedar I find for other purposes like bonfires, fence posts and anything you want to last or smell great.
@@madarain Thank you for the information. I'll do that.
what the height of this garden bed?
I can’t get my screws to screw through the pocket holes of my pressure-treated lumber. I use the Kreg jig to drill the pocket holes.
Did you figure this out? That's the exact reason I'm here reading comments.
What type of wood did you use
This may be a dumb question, but do you need to use treated wood for this?
Not dumb at all. You don't have to but if you don't I would use a wood that is rot resistant like cedar or seal the wood. Cedar is a little on the expensive side right now though.
What is the actual size of this bed?
What are safe methods to keep away slugs & ants?
Hi
Where did you get Kreg exterior 1 5/8" screws? I can't find that size by Kreg anywhere.
The 1 5/8" screws were not made by Kreg they were just normal exterior screws. I only used the 1 5/8" to screw town the top boards at the end. I have links in the description for everything I used.
@How To Home
Ok thanks.
So what length did you use for all the main pocket holes? Just want to make sure I get the right ones and they don't poke through.
Thanks
Great video. I copied your design. The only thing I did differently was assemble all the 4 sides separately in the garage due to weather and then carried them out and screwed them together in the back yard. I built 2 that are 3'x8'. Funny thing is I can't find 1x4 pressure treated anywhere locally. I am going to add a support across the center midway to keep it from bowing.
I had to do the same thing turned out great though!
I have neighbors wanting me to build theirs now. Great design! I give you all the credit!
What length were your Kreg Jig screws? thanks!
2.5"
Will it rust?
Just curious..that looked like pressure treated wood, if for food growing, aren't you supposed to avoid p.t?
That depends on what you read. The new pressure treated wood doesn’t contain the chemicals that the old pt wood did. Some say it’s safe now, others still believe it could be harmful. There are also questions as to whether anything could leech into the soil enough to actually be harmful. But all of that aside, in this build though, none of my soil is touching the wood so I’m not concerned at all.
You can use cedar posts instead but you’re right pressure treated wood is chemically treated and should not be used for vegetable gardens.
Is this a 3x8 foot raised bed. Sorry I might be missing that in the description.
No problem, not sure if I put it there or not. It’s 4x8.
You know there's a recession when ads run this often
What length of screw did you use for the wood to wood part of the build?
Did you ever figure this out?
I'm wondering the same thing!
When you use the pocket hole jig, do you have to use the specific screws or can I use deck screws?
I would not recommend using any regular screws. They are tapered from the head to the shaft of the screw which will make them continue to drive the screw even though it has reached the bottom of the hole from the drill bit. The Kreg screws have a flat head so they stop where they are supposed to. They are more money but worth it.
@@HowToHomeDIY Thank you for your response!
@@HowToHomeDIYwhat length do you suggest?
Is galvanized steel save for a garden bed? Wouldn’t the chemicals get in to the soil?
Completely safe. Raised garden beds should not contain too much acidity to cause the zinc from galvanized steel to leech into the soil and should be fairly neutral. Even if the soil was acidic enough to cause the zinc to leech into the soil, zinc is completely normal to have in soil and the zinc serves as an important nutrient to plants.
Wouldn't it be better to put some kind of barrier between the tin and the dirt because that tin will rust out from moisture within a couple of years
This is exactly what I do. Use a vapor barrier on the inside. Allows you to also use pressure treated wood if you want the boxes to last longer but not leach anything harmful into the soil.
Are there cut plans somewhere?
No not currently. Maybe I should make some.
Are the metal panels bad for planting vegetables?
No. I have seen some claim that there is a coating on them but based on what I have found, it's not going to cause any issues.
What type of wood was used? Was it pressure treated?
Yes it was pressure treated.
Did you use a treated wood or like a cedar? Or pine?
For this one, pressure treated.
Did you build that with pressure treated wood?
I did.
What about a false bottom to limit the amount of fill soil?
If you do that, you'll have to realize that, at some point, the false bottom will rot out. Also, you'll have drainage issues.
Fill the bottom with logs,branches, or other organic materials to take up space.
Will the aluminum leak to the plants?
If you are referring to the corrugated sheets, I don't think there would be a problem. There are made of metal and not aluminum.
How did you seal the inside corners to prevent dirt loss?
It just sits flat on the ground. I haven't lost any dirt but I do have to add dirt every year as the limbs that I used for my base layer decompose.
@@HowToHomeDIY I was referring to the inside upright corners. I'm thinking expanding foam might work there.
Oh yeah I haven’t had any dirt loss there. The canned foam would work for a while anyways. If you want it to last longer I would coat the foam with a silicone product.
Is that cedar wood treated?
On this raised bed it’s not cedar. Just standard pressure treated wood.
Does the steel rust over time?
At some point it will. I’ve had mine for years though and no signs of it yet.
Why 11? 2x4x8? Seems like too many unless I’m missing something
Same. I count 8?
Nope you guys are right. I miscounted. It’s actually 8.5 so 9 of them. Corrected it in the description. Thanks!
I just bought all the materials to build this, and it came to around $260.......Ouch!! I know it's less than all wood, but I'm thinking of taking it back and building the other version that you showed with the fence pickets. I know that one won't last as long, but I can build 4 of them for the price of one of these. Thoughts??
Hey Kim! Yeah that is more than I spent on the materials, I believe was under $200. I am guessing lumber in your area must be higher than here or the prices are shooting up again 😥. So it really depends on what you are wanting to do. If you are just starting your garden and want to get as much bed space as possible then the cedar fence picket beds might be the better option since they are a better bang for the buck as far as square footage price goes. They aren't quite as big (6'x4' ft I think) or last quite as long as this one but they are certainly a good option as that is what many of our beds are made of. Either option has its pros and cons. Not sure if I helped you or not but I hope so!
@@HowToHomeDIY yes, thank you so much! I am still not sure which way to go. I bought the lumber for the one with the roofing panels but then was going to return it and get the cedar fence pickets, and add one more picket to make it higher, because I need the height, and I do need to do more of them......we'll see. lol. Thank you for the videos, and for your help and taking the time to respond!
Hi. PA here. Bought the material at Lowe's yesterday. $270 including screws.
@@hadleyhayes7569 that’s ridiculous.
It was just under 150$ in materials for me.
Woodglut has a very large project base.
the wood material numbers seem off, am i missing something?
How so?