3D Printing Bushings for the World's Largest OpenRC F1 RC Car [EDIT: Its a Bushing]
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 มี.ค. 2018
- EDIT - Yes, it's a bushing. No, I'm not worried about lubrication or friction. Have a look at the pinned comment.
The question I've been asked the most is what am I going to use for bearings in the 4x scale OpenRC F1 project. Finding the proper sized bearings was going to take more time and effort than I had. I needed to use 3d printing to solve this problem, and the solution works INCREDIBLY well.
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HEY EVERYONE! I just woke up and saw the comments, just a few things:
1. Wow, thank you for all the kind words and suggestions! I recorded this late last night. Yes, I broke my own rule of recording after midnight, but, I had an idea, and wanted to get it filmed.
2. Yes, it's a bushing. It's crazy the words your mind cannot come up with when it's late and you're tired. Once everyone gets in an orderly line, you can all take turns pointing at me and laughing.
3. LOTS of people talking about lubricant, and friction, and worried that the bushing will just weld itself to the axle. It won't. THIS solution is just so I can get the car together and bring it to MRRF. That's it. It's going to be sitting on a table for people to see. It might roll a bit just so I can show people it does roll. Once the car is RC and under power, this WILL NOT be the solution because of all the awesome reasons everyone is talking about. :)
4. I really hope you're going to MRRF (the Midwest RepRap Festival)!
I would still squirt some lube in there even if the bushing is temporary just to reduce the scratchy noises of plastic rubbing plastic. High Five!
Awesome video. I really can't wait to see it finished! Specially when it's rc ready. To help you with the bearing situation when it's time to make it rc. Check these out www.georgelodgedirect.co.uk/Products/0032003d0003/F59460/
It's 1mm wider but I don't belive that will be a problem. Hope this helps!
I don't know if you're planning to make it a working RC car, but if you are, you might want to consider the amount of force you're going to need to get the car moving.
Bearings do come in a wonderfully large selection of sizes if you need to go with a traditional bearing.
Great stuff as always Joel!
I do wonder how it would compare if the layer lines were at 90*. less surfaces touching, so less friction? maybe even design tiny ridges in the axle...
I am!
Whilst 3d printing is a tool it’s also a research assistant. It allows us to build and try new things and new solutions for everyday issues that we couldn’t before. This is a prime example of this. Whilst this may not be the ultimate solution but it’s a step along the way. We can’t run without walking first. Great video Joel, proved a point and we all learnt something....thank sir.....have a rum on me skipper 👍👍
I'm disappointed you didn't use a 3D printed screw driver. :-)
Lol. In the first video he used Philips screws. Now all of the sudden they are flat screws...
Wonder what would be the reason...
So I could use my chisel!
Because chisels are actually screw drivers. Philips screw drivers are drift punches. And flathead screw drivers are prybars. :-)
3D Printing Nerd which could be 3D printed :)
Just remember there are "no problems" just solutions to the problems. Love your attitude to this. Great videos and keep it up.
It always amazes me how many people don’t actually listen to what you’re saying or read the comments. Anyway, love the build! Can’t wait to see it assembled.
PLA rubbing against PLA produces heat, and two hot PLA parts together become 1 fused PLA part. How about using nylon on those parts better?
or a single layer of Kapton Tape?
some nylons by taulman are made specifically for things like this. A great idea.
Nylon was made for uses like this, Taulman is just advertising its use purpose better. The only other plastic i would consider is POM (Delrin plastic) for a use like this.
I love how you go through the comments and like and or reply it really shows your audience how much you care
Yeah, man! Part of building an awesome community is engaging and interacting! I love doing this when I have the time!
3D Printing Nerd and i love it wen you do
Enjoy MRRF. Can't wait to see all the happenings there. Travel safe.
Hi 3DPN! Thanks for all that you do. Just wanted to say i enioyed the length of this video. Short, concise with enougg extra flare to make it entertaning while still covering the knowledge being transferred. Its always good to break down concepts into smaller easier to consume bite sized chunks. Stay awesome, stay creative, i will see you next time. Hi5
I'm so glad I found your channel. I'm so hyped to see this thing finished
Another good video Joel. Thank you very much for sharing. This is really an amazing series. You know though after you finish this car you're only Next Step Up is to do an actual automobile that you can drive the family around in LOL. We always enjoy your content and looking forward to the rest of this series and other cool content you got coming out this year. Have a wonderful day. God bless you and your family
Hi Joel, Just wanted to let you know that you've got my vote for best community advocate of the year on 3D printing industry.
Wow, thank you so much!
A little trick I use when printing a load bearing axle is to print it in two parts, but of course only works for 3D printing when the axle is 6mm thick or bigger. I design the axles with any necessary threads for retaining nuts using Fusion 360 but then I place a smaller square beam through the middle. The axle is printed vertically while the beam is printed horizontally. After printing the beam is slotted into the axle and you end up with the low friction on the axle surface for rotation but you get the added benefit of the horizontally printed beam for load bearing. I use a Prusa I3 MK2 and the sizes are pretty close so a little help with a mallet is sometimes required to put the axle together but you could print the beam slightly smaller and rely on glue to join the parts.
Of course 'load bearing' is limited by the material but for windmill and a tracked vehicle I'm working on these axles are much more robust then just the vertical printing as those single part axles I find easily shear off under load.
Great job Joel! Glad you are doing this full time! Loving all the content you're putting out
Yay this will be my first MRRF. Dying to see the full car.
Excited to see the final video for this project! Heck - I don't even have a 3D printer yet (thinking about the CR-10 or Prusa i3 soon), but you get me excited for when I do get one.
High five to you joel, you're videos (along with make anything's) have educated me with 3D printing. I kindly request you do a video dedicated to all of you're creations and sucess in 3D printing. I hope you keep up the good work and keep inspiring people like me to believe they could follow in your footsteps and become the new generation of 3D modeling and printing.
Great 👍🏼 and simple temporary solution. Can’t wait to see the reactions of the visitors when they see it.
I think this is, just as you said, a perfect demonstration piece. To show what the printers can do, and if you choose your materials for the loads you are working with, exactly what you can get away with.
Also, please if you do read these comments, please think about in the next version which will be powered and such to just use a single standard bearing size for the entire car. Again, I don't think you will be getting this thing up to 4x speeds, so by picking a single bearing size you will save on all the shafting you will have to purchase/scavenge. I think you could get away with using roller skate bearings, or even fidget spinner bearings with how little actual speed you will see on them.
That's because the outer diameter of the wheels are going to be so huge compared with the bearings, they won't see the load/RPM that would require really super nice bearings. Anyway, thanks for the video. It was neat!
I read this! Yes - demonstration piece. Perfect description. Once powered quite a bit will change and I love your suggestions.
That screw nut design was pretty slick.
Hi, maybe it's good idea to add some lubrication for those parts? For example silicon or teflon oil?
Certain normal lubricants can weaken plastics, I'd just try mineral oil first and see what happens with that.
Yes, but now I don't remember but silicon oil or teflon oil is dedicated to used when two plastic has contact. What is more silicon oil is waterproof and don't collect dust.
Carbon (like in pencils) could wok like dry lubricant.
Kurukuu but carbon is flammable but silicon oil not
graphite lubricant like Kurukuu suggested is best in this case since it fills gaps well enough but cannot corrode or otherwise damage the plastic. As for flammability that is not a concern in a build like this and i've used graphite in far more energy intensive applications than this without fire.
Man great job on another video!! Can't wait to see this thing finished!!
I really wish it were possible to print a full scale model or at least a kid sizable model, but this is pretty sweet too. Can't wait to see it all done
I thought you could print a roller barring. I know it is more complex but I think that would give you much better results.
I would love to see you using other materials like nylon, POM or PC to make this kind of usable things.
Great channel and I wish you many successes in this new stage!
Regards from Argentina
I Like It!! It's going to be interesting to see what you do to "scale up" the electronics for this.
Wfffffff, how smart you are..... Asking myself who is in need of this video
Very cool Joel. It's awesome that you have the time to do a huge project like this AND the time to experiment! #highfive
Great stuff Joel. I'm glad you found a simple solution. Hopefully the PLA on PLA doesn't cause too much wear. I metal shim / cylinder perhaps, just a thought. Cheers
Good initial solution but I agree with other comments that lubrication will aid and that you'll need a better long term solution once you motorize the car. Enjoying this model journey and seeing the solutions to the challenges of upscaling.
Excellent solution, it gets you rolling as a display at MRRF then when your not up against it, time wise, you can sort out the heat problems when you make it R.C.🖐🖐🖐🖐🖐👏👏
Great Video!
Can't Wait to see the car run
OH JOEL. You're such a tease. @7:22, the rolling chassis :)
Even proper hobby grade (mostly entry level) r/c cars sometimes come with bushings instead of bearings. It’ll be fine for a while, but bearings are a priority for when you’re upgrading. For a project like this though, bushings will do fine for the car to run a few times.
You can print a bearing casing and use BBs. You print it in two parts, in the same way you did here but with a rail slot on the inner faces and have a single hole for BB insertion on the outer case. put the parts together and fill with BBs (one by one)and plug the hole. Works great, maybe for this size two rail slots would be ideal.
Joel, great work. Keep it coming.
Good thinking. I did the same thing with my normal scale openrc f1 because I had some bearings laying around but not the right size for the front wheels. Not only does this work at 400% it also works at 100%. 👍
Oh and see you at MRRF!
Hey it was good seeing you at mrrf, i was the local from twitter. And i have to say the car is amazing in person
Great to see you!
Can't wait to see the car at MRRF!
Really excited about this series ;)
Glad to see you are recovering your rhythm and energy back. Have missed it since you started this adventure. Like this coment if you know what I am talking about
The fun thing is this is actualy a type of bearing used in old machines like a steamstrain for instans, I'd know I work with them, it's a simple brass ring an a lot of lubricant, it's called a contact bearing.
You could have used nylon filament for the bushing. It's a fairly low static coefficient of friction of about 0.15-0.25 and that is on a dry surface. It is also very tough and has a higher melting point compared to PLA.
Love the vids, I'm just a Newb, and just starting into 3d printing but, isn't friction going to be an issue in heating up the parts? If there's going to be any kind of speed for any length of time I would think that may be an issue? Thanks for all the great stuff. Looking fwd to seeing this done
This is gonna be so sick!!!
A bit of grease on those bushings will give you close enough to bearing performance.
Don't use regular grease tho it will rot the plastic. Use special plastic grease just google SPG grease
Good job.
A completely 3d printed project.
Have you considered pinning the bolts on the wheel hubs, direction of rotation could un-thread/un-screw the bolts from the hubs or could over tighten & stop rotation.
Am loving this build. I appreciate the purpose of your print, just in my own mechanical prints where i need parts to move, I found carbon fiber PLA gives a nice smooth finish for smooth motion and where i actually need lubrication I use dry PTFE which works well without attracting dust and gunking up. Would be interesting to see if you extend this project to make a 3d printed box car racer (is that what they're called?)
What you could do... You can split the bushing in Fusion360 (essentially making an outer and inner ring) and add a pipe to it that runs between the two rings of the bushing and use the cut feature. This would add a channel that would be mirrored between the two rings. During your print (you'd be printing both at the same time) you can pause the print and drop in actual ball bearings (easily bought on eBay) and finish the print. This would encase the ball bearings and actually create a bearing. You'd have to play around with it a little I'm sure, but it should work well.
Edited because I just read that update about the Friction comments :) Look at the community go! At least you know everyone is looking out for you. Keep up the great work can't wait to see it all done.
hey joel check out christoph laimers video on Design a parametric, 3d-printable Slew Bearing with Fusion 360 might not be the right bearing but something useful maybe
hey, why not printing the bushings with carbon impregnated filament? Protopasta conductive filament has a hi lubricity (low friction) and makes a very good bushing material!
A.... awesome video, as always!
Nice job and great video.
I wonder if a bearing using bb's would allow you to use mostly printed parts but still have a bearing that would perform. i'm thinking something what geardownforwhat uses for his gearboxes
Do you print your outlines (perimeters) inside out or outside in? The default is set to print inside out. It's helped me a ton with tolerance issues since I've changed my settings to outside in.
I'd recommend RC car diff oil for lubrication. Its literally oil made for plastic gears.
Overdonebacon those arent made out of PLA though...my guess would be that those are Nylon
Pretty cool! Wait... this came out today? Nice!
Something about those tires is beautiful to look at. I assume you won't be putting any load on the car since you are essentially using plastic bushings
Great work!
Print a real ball bearing I saw it and it’s great.
Fernando De Zottis
Like Joel said, its absolutely not needed
Joel James yup I heard that
But it is fun to do.
Believe me or not, model bearring is pain in the ass
How about having a go at printing a ball bearing race? How cool would it be to print a fully functioning bearing race,in a single piece print? Might require a finer print but should be possible?
I wonder if adding a little white lithium grease during assembly might help it run smoother. I know this project is more about the 3D printing, but it never hurts to chase a little performance. It could be kind of cool to see what types of grease and lubricants work with 3D printed parts. It could really help those people interested in 3D printing mechanical models.
Have you figured out what you'll do about friction on the axle to the bearing? Being in PLA, it might not last that long if you're putting the car through it's paces for a decent length of time. Heat from friction is going to build up on that pretty quickly me thinks.
So lubrication should be used to reduced heat caused by friction force. I recommended always using lubrication, even if factory said that is not necessary ;)
CosikNS there's a joke in there somewhere.
CosikNS like silicon lubrication?🙄
Well, that's what you said in your comment
Joel James yes, but I didn't expect that anyone will ready my comment under video :D
Hi Joel! When you test run the car add some Graphite Dry Lubricant to the bearings to see if this helps the car coast further. Maybe MatterHacker's has a Graphite impregnated filament???
I think that another reason that you can use a 3D printed bearing at 4x scale is that the parts are less likely to break. Its actually basic knowledge, that for example, a twig is easier to break than a tree branch due to a different diameter.
For your bearings try using Motorkote for slickness. It has a 1000 and one uses.
Interesting. I will be curious to see how the bearings will hold up to friction after extended use since PLA might get damaged with the heat generated.
Great video, as always! If you printed it out of Graphite PLA would it be self lubricating? I think if you scribble a pencil where your bushing bearings sit on the axle, you'll be in good business.
When you hit 1 million subscribers print a lifesized F1 car and drive it yourself.
What about printing a captured ball bearing? I would think if you could dial in your settings it would provide reduced rolling resistance as opposed to 3D printed bushings like you are using.
I think a lot of you are mostly right about the bearing, IF it was a "normal" scale RC car. I'm not sure that the electronics that he'll get in there will be able to push the car hard enough to have to worry about friction issues. Unless he uses gas I think it'll all be okay!
I'd look at the OD and ID requirements for the bearing, find the closest size, and design and print shims for the final fit.
Wouldn't it have been easier to measure the inner dimension of the rim, then the diameter of the axel, and then fill the space between them when designing the part? Great video as always.
Im curious of a few things. You put work into the design already. It seem like with all the time that went into printing and assembly it would have almost saved time to make design implements that would bring the parts together more easily. Easy solution would be to design the holes in the parts where the metal rods were drilled in the last video. Better solution would have been a dovetail clips on either side of every butt joint that would slide into place. Idk It just seems like with all the work going into this that it would be better to put it together in a way that promotes more strength. Still super cool. The thing looks awesome. Can't wait to see it run. Bummed to read your pinned comment realizing it wont run for a while.
Yeah, I'm bummed as well. I mean, it's going to be assembled Saturday at MRRF. After that, though, I'm unsure of how long it's going to take to modify it and power it. THAT is the unknown. I am SUPER excited to power it though, so fingers crossed it happens way sooner than later.
Have you think about the weight of the car? will it affect the amount of friction between those pieces? it might create some unwanted usure..
If you want to lubricate it, would you use graphite or a lubricant based on silicones? I would rather use graphite.
My volume is low if its already mentioned it due to being at work, but will the spinning parts be using a higher heat resistance plastic?
I'm still waiting for the new filament that you made! :D
Btw love your background music
Hey mate. What about design a print in place roller bearing. Should be possible as long as you get your tolerances correct. (Ball bearing wouldn't print correctly.) Also the more load you add to a bush or bearing, the more friction involved.
Nice bush! 😉
Hey cool vid and First comment on your channel for me. But once you have all the weight and eventually have it radio controlled won't those ring bearings just heat up and bind together? I love your channel please keep the vids coming
Fantastic!
Those bushings are gonna be super hot.
SO HOT. Though to be fair, it isn't going to do much rolling with them
You cold probably print a type of needle sleeve bearing that would work fairly easily if you want to get more speed out of in in the future.
You could also use a bit of graphite lube on that wheel and it would be even smoother.
As people have pointed out, just print it in nylon and should work fine for RC (or carbon fibre?)
what about nylon instead of PLA? it's much more slippery and much more temperature resistant to withstand any heat generated due to friction. I prefer Taulman 910 for such applications.
food grade silicone grease would make it smoother if you want to go the extra step. See you at MRRF, I'll have rum! I just wont be there till about 7-8pm friday as I have to work Friday.
I have used PLA bushings exactly like this for spool holders. 608 bearings roll too much and the spool unwinds.
Graphite power...do I need to say more? Great project!
ever thought of trying to 3d print a ball bearing?(or maybe a roller bearing?) honestly it looks like what you're doing works good for your application, but, i've seen a couple people get pretty good results with completely 3d printed ball bearings (even with the balls printed already inside the bearing assembly)
Hey Joel... Where did the Philips head screws go?
I was surprised when you choose the philips heads, now I see you switched to flat heads :-)
If I were you, I'd get some silicone based oil for the surfaces that are moving across each other. That'll make it slide better and cut down on heat from friction.
Great Video..
THIS IS NOTA HAMMER NOT A THING
- IVAN MIRANDA
That screwdriver reference though 😂😂 😂😂 😂😂 😂😂
Hi Joel, save yourself times and import the .step file in fusion 360, you have all the nuts/bolts/bushing in the file. All you need to do is scale them 4x ;)
This is looking awesome. But you invented the bushing. Oh wait maybe not. LOL
what you have done is made a PLA BUSHING. at the speeds your likely to go at with this car I actually think it will work just fine.
I think the plastic will heat past the glass melting temperature and fuse together, its PLA it only has to reach 60* and its wrecked. If you are going to make a bushing at leased use ABS (not really recommended at all), nylon, POM.
I don't think it will. this thing is going to do at most "walking speed" those parts are never going to overcome their own thermal mass to reach glass temp and deform.
if this was a smaller one that was going to go zoom zoom. sure you betcha. I would be surprised if you got "one race" out of a set of them.
but 3dp's monstrosity. its not a race car. its a "display piece" that will be able to move. even a 5mph collision with something hard will probable break it from shear inertia alone.
as long as he keeps it slow and put puts around to show it off at walking speeds I think (I could be wrong) the bushings will hold up just fine.
Nerys It can also be referred to as a bearing. Take for instance Igus. Their plastic linear bearings are just plastic sleeves.
walking speed? He wants to make it into a remote control car...