Worlds Largest OpenRC F1 Car - Phase 5 // Final Glue, Metal Fasteners, Tapping Parts
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ก.ย. 2024
- The final steps of assembly BEFORE IT RUNS are here. I have to re-glue some parts, re-print and tap some parts, get metal fasteners, and deliver it to Robert to install the servo, motors, and batteries. I AM EXCITED! ITS ALMOST TIME!
#3dprinting #openrcf1 #seanisawesome
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3DGloop: 3d.pn/3dgloop
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40 Piece Tap and Die Set SAE: amzn.to/2pEp5E3
Used the 1/2" 13 tap for the parts!
Tacoma Screw: tacomascrew.com
Any fastener you need!
Matterhackers BUILD series PLA: 3d.pn/mhbuild
More than 47lbs of this used in making this car!
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Hi Joel my name is Missy Miller and I have just gotten into 3D printing with my son he is 24yrs old and has autism his name is Joey he is an extremely smart young man he did graduate high school twice lol Yes I said twice once with a Special Ed diploma and Again for a normal high school diploma he just need a little supervision like I said We are totally new to the 3d printing world for our first printer my husband surprised us with a Anet A2 lol and after a few hunting down missing Parts lol And building the A2 we are finely getting some nice looking parts off of it I want to thank you for all that you are doing right now 3d printing is a a hobby for my son and myself and we are making lots of Useful Upgrades for the Anet a2, computer parts and Christmas ornaments and Tons of Pokemon stuff lol joey loves Pokemon and any anime 3d prints he can find thanks again Joel high 5 man you are awesome.
This is AMAZING to hear! Tell Joey he is rad and I owe him an epic highfive some day!
@@3DPrintingNerd I will he will be thrilled you are his favorite 3d printing TH-camr
So awesome Missy! 3d printing is a great creativity outlet! So glad you are both enjoying! If you want any Pokemon models or other fun models to print and maybe try painting, check us out over at ChaosCoreTech! We love Pokemon and anime and all things nerdy 😊 hope your son keeps enjoying! And we love Joel too, he's pretty awesome 😜
@whisser miller Thats a fantastic result, thank you for sharing your experiences and Joeys too. Welcome to the fantastic world of 3D Printing and to the awesome community. We are all here to help each other so please feel free to shout if you need any advice. Please pass on my huge respect to Joey, all the way from this little island we call the UK
That is awesome! Glad to see 3D Printing is doing wonders for your family and your son :)
*claims plastic screws are too weak... makes plastic nuts*
Yup. I had a think on this - the reason plastic screws fail is because it's perimeters being pulled apart. With nuts, it's a compression of sorts, so they should maintain their shape and hold. SHOULD.
@@3DPrintingNerd yeah I understand that, I would just be concerned about the threads stripping while tightening or when actually using the car if there's any kind of pulling force with the body twisting or shaking. That said I think this thing is pretty dope :)
YOU ARE PRETTY DOPE!
Also, I'm VERY curious to see how this performs and what ends up breaking and falling off :)
If they fail just grind down some regular metal nuts
Exactly. Too funny! 😄
So let me get this straight...Joel was worried about his nuts, so he went to Tacoma Screw where he met Dick who set him up with some slots?
Sounds perfectly reasonable to me.
Just FYI, If the plastic nuts fail - you can order "jam nuts". These are the same size hex, but a shorter height & should fit your slots. Nice job with the 3D gloop - I'll have to try some. Can't wait to see this thing zooming around the freeway in Seattle.
Toni Ryan was confused why he didn’t do that. Jam nuts are usually right beside normal nut as the store.
I didn't see them, didn't know to look for them. :(
www.mcmaster.com/91078A222
You have a quarter of a million subscribers, a few of us live in "Not-America". Pretty sure that if you'd asked you'd have had more free M12 fixings delivered to you than you could ever have used 😀
I know I know :)
We have metric and Imperial std in our plain hardware shops, it's just our Imperial is Witt not UNC.
Buy the way those cone shaped bolt heads are called Countersunk head.
Actually, for what it's worth, that type of screw is called a Flat Head.
That must be a Nth America thing because a flat head down here is flat on the top and bottom, not cone and flat.
Very possible, didn't think about it being referred to differently in other countries.
Oh dear God......my level of respect and appreciation for your channel just went up exponentially.............
I'd love to see a video on 3D printing woodworking joints- dovetails, dados, box joints, half-lap joints, pins etc. It would show off the strengths and limitations of 3D printing and allow for even stronger assembled prints.
3D Gloob, contains 60% Methylene Chloride, which produces VOCs and causes skin irritation. Please Joel, when doing these videos remember to follow or mention the SDS on the chemical you are demonstrating , as many people look to you for instructions. Just because it has a silly sounding name & cartoon labeling, doesnt make it less harmful. Its a strong solvent.
This needs an FPV system so you can drive it from behind the wheel. Maybe put a joelbot in the drivers seat!
Really enjoyed the format of this one, guys. Tight editing and it was nice to see the scenery change a few times. Kept things moving and interesting. Great work!
This entire story about this gloop thing sounds like a drug deal "You want some?" - "Yeah sure" :')
Drugs are bad, mkay?
I can't wait to see how this turns out, I've been following this series and am so excited for the finished product and maybe a race or two!
I'm just finally hitting all these. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience!
Hey Joel: Just use medium or thin CA-glue from your local rc hobby store. CA and some activator is the way to go for PLA. I print and build rc airplanes (And yes, they fly great!) from 3D-Labprint. With CA glue, they never break at the glue seam but the material itself breaks. Greetings from Switzerland
One more thing about fasteners : if you use SAE grade fastners for holding softer material parts I, it will act as a cutting tool and erode softer material.To overcome this problem use SS washers to distribute pressure evenly. Happy printing.
I like what you did with the time lapse.
Having that bar at the bottom is genius.
Thank you!
As one of your fivers I can tell everyone it's really worth it to watch your after the five videos☝️
Like a nice little cool down after the video^^
If you want a metal option, there is lock nuts (not nylock), they are about half the thickness of a normal nut as they are made to be doubled up to bind against each other to lock adjustments in place
3D GLOOP is AWESOME STUFF!!!
I love the different colours the pieces has!
I do as well!
Whatever happens that thing is spectacular. My brother-in-law was big into R/C stuff. His thing was full on scale recreation of WW 2 and earlier aircraft. He was nuts for the stuff. So to some degree I enjoy it too. Can't wait to see it with he running gear onboard.
HEY, 3D Printing Nerd, 3D print some fixes for the grate on your front door window!
I love that my sticker is still on there. I only put it on with painters tape. I did it as a joke, but I appreciate you leaving it there. Miss you brother.
Yeah, you did - I saw the error in your ways, and put the sticker on proper. :) See you at MRRF?
You are so awesome. Yes, I will absolutely be at MRRF. (With the FK-1)
Ivan Miranda has more than just "that darn tank"... OK he has two tanks xD.... his videos are good anyway so everyone should check him out
and rocket, and hand-held propulsion device, and giant adjustable stamp. Plus other red things.
and the beach sand digital writer, that was cool.
check my boat out www.thingiverse.com/thing:3058927
Can't wait to see it running. Broom broom
The GT2 gears were probably a good idea because they have a larger gear ratio. This will also improve the speed, because the gear ratio is way smaller on the regular gears, so your improvement will make it go much faster.
here is a suggestion. for your bushings, replace them with 3d printed ABS and make a sealed ball bearing type design and fill it with lubricant before sealing and assembling over the axle, especially where its melting. maybe even lightly glue the inner and outer walls of these bearings to their respective parts for even less friction. i would suggest doing the seal with e6000 adhesive, it is flexible, very sticky and heat resistant. works wonders for car audio and rc projects alike. if it is not strong enough adhesive i suggest e9001. this should prevent any melting and keep the belt tight much longer. if you are serious about this supersized project, there are a lot of design improvements that will need done, for example that wing will break off from shear acceleration force due to the enlargement i promise you. mine had a castle kit on it and i could make it do back flips just by accelerating or front flips by braking, and thats even with weight being doubled by the onboard electronics. i was even planning a flip button on the remote. and replacing the stock monster truck wheels for solid rubber street tires for added traction broke any part from the axle carrier to the differential housing. ive had to do SEVERAL repairs and aluminum upgrades just to use it for a full charge without something breaking, which a rollover and landing impact alone is enough to break parts. but only where point of failure occurred and reinforced any parts that arent available in aluminum. i even had to bore out some connections so they would break away easier than the stock design. traxxas really bodged the design on the teton. you may even need to have a fan blowing on the motor like i did, which may allow you to only use the one motor at high speeds, but ONLY after you get the spur/ pinion gear ratio correct for this specific build. you may also require a servo saver, also due to the enlargement, not for the servo, but for your 3d printed parts. this will prevent that huge servo from snapping your steering system like a twig. i would really like to see this turn out, its a shame you clearly in over your head.
Can't wait to see electronics and see it running...
I would love for this project to continue, even if Joel doesn't work on it to add in some basic autonomous functionality to the car. . .
AUTONOMOUS! Holy crap, brilliant!
It would even need to be to complicated, start with just point to point navigation... Arduino, compass and GPS would be all that's needed to start that process...
The new lighting look from your most recent videos kills. The dark edges of the frame make things seem more comfy and conspiratorial, more late-night cozy, more up-too-late hobby experiment-y. It also evokes nostalgia because of its similarity to the looks of ancient TV shows such as Mr Wizard and the Huntley Brinkley report (see TH-cam for examples). Congrats to the cinematographer!
Mr Wizard! I loved Don Herbert!
The old B&W episodes OOZED dusty menace & fascination
“buh bye” perfection
Wow, never noticed that before,
He and beaker could be twins!
it's time you get a lathe joel
I do not disagree with you
I would just use an angle grinder for making the nuts a bit shorter.
Nice! I was thinking that this had been abandoned.
Tacoma Screw sounds like something you get in a back alley that requires penicillin.
Thanks for the laughs Joel. I needed this this morning.
I don't think I deserve a high five, but you deserve a thumbs up :D
Joel, I use ZAP-A-GAP CA Glue. Gives you about 10secs to move the parts before they set (they do have slower setting glue). I also use their “Kicker” spray when I need the glue to set instantly. The print fails before the glue joint. When gluing long pieces, align just one end, hit that end with the “kicker”, then you can align the rest of the joint and then hit that with the kicker. Much easier than trying to align the whole parts, especially if they have a little flex to them.
You can deny it, but this is definitely a 3d gloop video. I am thinking megaman would like some.
Um... The first part is for sure. Hopefully my honest came through. OH DUDE Mega Man would LOVE some gloop!
This is great Joel, great editing, great project, can't wait to see the next one!! Making my own RC car is probably one reason why I would get a 3D printer!
2:35 "That's a pretty good wiggle i got going right there" LOL
Kinda wished you added some mortise and tenon joints to your builds when you have to slice them apart. That would ensure that all the parts would line up perfectly and give the glued sections more strength.
Oh sure,,,when I suggest solvent welding back when you started this you just brushed me off, but when someone offers you some for free that has ‘3d’ in its name, it’s all of a sudden the best stuff ever. Don’t worry though, my feelings aren’t hurt too bad. Obviously I’m joking, keep up the awesome build. By the way, if you dissolve scrap PLA into a solvent, you can make a very thick past that will bond parts together and fill large gaps.
What solvent would I use to dissolve?
There are a couple products that work. I use Plastruct Bondene. You can also use styrene resin thinner, which is much cheaper, but if you live n California, it will give you cancer if you look at it wrong.
Methylene Chloride is the main solvent used in 3d goop and i belieave is also in the plastruct as well. it is very effective at dissolving pla but is serious stuff and proper precautions should be used at all times
@@3DPrintingNerd Next time you solvent weld something, do it in a well ventilated area and wear respiratory protection. Bad things cab happen if you don't.
Finally!!!!! It’s about time Joel! I love it!
Hi Joel I wanted to thank you for your great work you do for the 3d printing community, also to point out I noticed a big structural flaw at the body of the RC F1 car! I don't know if you are aware of it or if you forgotten (was never mentioned) it! Look at the video "phase 3" in the series, at time stamp 19:57 to 20:05 during which you lifted the RC F1 car up, and the front nose departs from the drivers cabin, due to the weight of the 3d printed tires! And if the final product tires will be even heavier! Well you might just break the bottom chassis at the last possible moment. Please do review it, and take into consideration, because We don't want you to fail! Don't forget that We care about and love you too! High 5...
This should be interesting, I do not have high hopes for longevity but, to print out such a large RC car is awesome. Think I would have started with an aluminum base plate for the chassis however. Rocks and bottoming out is going to be murderous on the undercarriage.
Perhaps an FPV setup for it is in order.
ok ok. I fucking lost it at the blank expression of "Hello amazon." lmfao
hope you lube up when final final assembling. I use Super Lube, its a gel in a squeeze tube. performs very well, i bought for using on telescopes where consistency with temperature changes etc is important and find it works great on 3d printed items like wheel axels and in gearboxes I've used. though its all slow speed stuff but it doesn't react or get into layer gaps to weaken the prints. been loving your journey on this build.
Might end up making a 1:1 version of this one day.
Thanks for saying "SAE" instead of "standard"; SAE not only isn't the default globally, but is also defined in terms of SI (1 inch is by definition 25.4 mm)
Hey Joel you could also use 1/2” jam nuts there are usually half the thickness of a regular nut.
It's funny watching videos and then realizing the TH-camr is in the same state or even same area as you! Cool!
Keep up the entertaining vids!
Thanks, I will!
Epic assembly montage FTW!
Hey Joel, Id love to see what you do with all your waste material, whether it be recycling or massive sheets of wafers, someone who prints on your scale has a loooooot of excess from supports to the little bits and pieces that are meant to be sacrificed (hairy lion anyone?)
Thanks man, love the channel and all the amazing stuff you do.
But 'JAM NUTS' they are half height! Those pla nuts will fail!!!
Looks awesome!!
It would actually look worse if he added the halo on it that's now required on F1 cars this year, lol
Love the all the prints in the background! :D
Joel is nuts
I've been waiting for this bro! Cool video...can't wait to see it running.
I've been waiting for the updates soooooo long
Hey great job, bud. Although on something THAT big you might really need to install some sort of shock system lest it gets shaken to bits...45-60 pounds loaded is pretty significant at speed.
Ooooh wow! I waited patiently and here we are! Great job joel, great job!
7:27 lol.. nice that's a huge camera
Might *want* to *3D print* a new *decorative* piece for your *front door* window/mirror thing.
IM SO EXCITED FOR THIS JOEL OMG!!!! Also your hair is looking rather sweet today if I might add :D
Noice use more references in future videos like this one, they were very funny!
I use 100% infill for plastic nuts and bolts and they don't break at all.
PLEASE be sure to watch the sequence at 13:28 - Sean did an amazing job putting that together!
While that sequence is amazing, nothing beats that Kona Brewing shirt.
Truth. That reminds me, I need to go back to Hawaii.
Dude Joel I love the A-Team inspired build section that was awesome!
Awesome video man I can't wait to see all this come together can't wait for the next video
You should have ordered your fasteners from McMaster Carr they don’t always have the best price but they’re better that what I can find in stores (but not online) and have an insanely large catalog
You reduced the size of the nut by .2 to make it larger? Makes sense
10/10 amazon service 100%
Spray flex seel on the tires! More grip, strength, and durability!
We thought about that!
I'M SO HYPED!!!
The next big project you should do, should be something you have no help with i.e. design, assemble electronics, print and put together. Because some of us makers don't have people that we can go have help us so we need to Google and figure it out.
I still think this needs a First person view rig! Also I wonder if you could Spray black plastidip on the outside of the wheels for grip?
Use you drill to hold your tap will make things a bit faster for you.
According to AVE you need to fill it with smoke and Magic Pixies!
"Dick at Tacoma Screw"... Right after he claims it's a fastener store. I'm dying!!!
I think this video went a bit nuts.
Hi Joel- great job. One thing I don't understand- how can reducing the slice of the nut 0.2mm in both X and Y result in a better fitting nut? It seems like it would end up even tighter, with less clearance.
The tapered bolts are called "countersunk" screws. Much love though.
I want to see this thing drive!
2:46 How gangsters steer in tha hood
So you expect us to believe that m12 bolts and nuts were more expensive than ordering a set of taps in 18th century thread sizes, then 3D printing nuts? Lolz. Great project, though. I’m very intrigued at what can be achieved with such large printers. Looking forward to seeing more larger projects.
Hey Joel nice work on the open rc car this far I hope to one day make some good prints just like you do
Yes finally it's done
Tacoma 🤙🏾🤙🏾
And we get a montage of Joel screwing with us ;>
Ha!
Joel made a T-34
The welds are stronger than the material protecting the internals
I was hoping the doorbell was going to be Angus delivering a pizza...
You and me both
Hey I started with an anet a8 and worked pretty well it was a fun project and have designed a lot of my own prints but I’m looking for an upgrade. Any ideas?
That's hilarious. I'm subscribed to all of the ones you mentioned. Great minds think alike!
Nice, I can't wait to see it in action!
Are you in the pacific northwest? There's a Tacoma Screw about an hour and a half from where I live.
Joel!!!! What about... what about da nutz?? 8:08
You might want to do a fivers things for everyone once. Let people know what they are missing by not supporting your patreon. Also congrats on passing 250k subscribers!
Thank you! That's a neat idea, I may do that again!
Yaay the Thursday video but it's Sunday
Noticed the wood spindles in front door window grid are broken or missing.
Another opportunity for a Fusion 360 tutorial and a practical 3d printed repair.
Obviously you should have made a giant slotted screwdriver for those large screws..
Hahaha!
have you tried dipping the tap in Crisco oil to make easer to tap parts in pla
I haven't, interesting idea
I'm confused you used it as glue but the website says it's a print bed adhesive that releases when cooled
Im nervous for this to be done though as it has no suspension. At small scale and weight like the open rc, its really no big deal, but at such a large scale, I think itll be a real issue resulting in a lot of broken pieces
hey man ive been watching this series for a couple days and figured i would let you know i work for a company that supplies fasteners and for any future projects let me know and i can help you come up with exactly what you need.
HECK YES!!! Email me: Joel at the3dprintingnerd dot com
What are you gonna use for steering? A servo? I know there are other things but I can't wait to see this run. What are you running it with? What size motor, kv, ESC,
Here, watch this! th-cam.com/video/_ye_tJKEEEo/w-d-xo.html