Beautiful barrel! As for concerns posted here about annealing, no it won't happen at those temperatures... if anything tempering will occur yet any case hardening that was done beforehand will remain... hardened outer surface with a malleable core.
Well gun is nearly 3 years old and bluing is still good. It has come off where parts slide and minor scrapes from use. I wipe it down with 3 in 1 oil after use.
I've used this same process (except I keep my oil warm by putting the tray on a cast iron stove) on 1911s and shotguns. Leaves a beautiful blue finish. Easy touch up, just repeat.
It can in fact work, I've done it with stainless steel parts for my Lonewolf Longhorn knife. Depending on the size, thickness, shape, and type of the steel you will have to adjust heat accordingly. Personally, depending on what I'm trying to do or what look I want I will either go with mild oil bluing, or full on Carbonizing of the steel. In either case standard motor oil works well, in fact anything containing carbon will work, like WD-40 haha. Be careful as some compounds are also volatile.
No guessing. Try it yourself. Use a piece of carbon steel, heat to cherry red and allow to cool slowly. It will be soft. Work it to the shape you want and polish it as best you can. Heat to cherry red and plunge into water. It will be rock hard and brittle. Polish again and slowly heat to blue , plunge in oil. It will be tempered like a spring. If you are making a knife or chisel it will be better to leave the cutting edge yellow as that will be harder and hold an edge better. Have fun Alan
Absolutely beautiful.....I've watched many videos, and I do believe heat is a necessity in bluing...whether you are cold bluing, or hot bluing with oil. Thank you for the video.
I appreciate what you tried to do here - but frankly, between the howling of the blow torch and the heavy accent I could not for the life of me understand one single syllable.
Check blacksmithing sites for what temperatures create which colors. I think you will find that blue is well up into the tempering region, and that it will affect the hardness of the steel, and the strength. If you have an old side-by-side, the barrels are soldered with a solder that melts well below the tempering temperature, just so it does not change the temper. If you heat an old side-by-side to this heat, you will have a basket of parts, as it will come apart. Case coloring is done at 1400 degF for 3 hours, followed by 1100 degrees for an hour, submerged in charcoal. Your solder will not take this, and neither will the tempering of the barrels. Short answer, DONT DO IT
I did it on an old single break barrel shotgun that was beat up, I used black used oil got a real nice finish looks brand new. But like you said unless your into metallurgy and know what your doing with tempering or just using it to hang up on the wall, watch out. It’s going to look good but be super brittle and probably not safe to fire. You can do it on things like your trigger and hammer and whatnot without too much repercussion.
Yes be carefull what you do. bear in mind you temper steel by heating it. the colours change at set temperatures, indead thats the way I use to temper parts. Springs are tempered to blue with most other things not so hot. The plunge does not reset the hardness but holds it where it is. So experiment first and good luck. Alan
I wanted to add that the cleaner the oil the more blue and purples you get the dirtier the oil esepicialy from carbon in the oil the darker black you get. So if you want to get super dark black getting some oil out of a large diesel that being pitched would be a good idea. If you do not like getting diesel oil used you can also add graphite 1 cup per gallon to regular gasoline/petrol used more oil to add in more carbon sources.
There's a lot of people on here who think they're Metallurgists. since he's only heating the steel to only 560deg and quenching in oil (which takes the heat away a lot slower) he's not causing any major changes to the metal. The critical temperature for hardening (makes the metal go brittle) is much higher, about 800deg.
Hi, No, its got to be spotless before you heat it. No fingerprints, wipe it with a clean cloth and then heat it, ideally hanging. Take it slow and warm it as uniformly as pos. heat the thick bits first and the heat will travel to the thin bits. For a knife I would suggest blue on the body of it to give it a spring like temper but you would want to keep the cutting edge harder so dark straw would be good. (I assume its a carbon steel) Plunge it into the oil as soon as the colours are right. Alan
the proper way to do it is by using bluing salts, such as Nitreblue from Brownell's. Oil quenching results in hard, brittle parts. Hopefully you heat treated them afterwards.
LightningAlan I must say you are the man! Cant wait to try out this bluing technique! Not that I really have anything that needs blueing currently but I'm sure I can find something to blue. I get free unused engine oil from work (we recycle motor oil) so that will be a plus. If I ever make it over seas I am coming to visit you! I had to destroy the oil burner I made though as It would have surely burnt down my barn with more use. That or land me in the hospital. Keep up the vids nice website to
@TheNoke65 No hardening will occur from this 240°C (blue). One needs to quench from 830°C into water or from 1050°C into oil. This is for the 1095 steel, but other steels work similar and the only major difference is in the temperatures of annealing.
People keep commenting about the risk the heat poses to the temper of the metal. It's nonsense. The temperatures are no where near hot enough to weaken your barrel's strength. I have personally fired machine guns until the barrels were cherry red hot and never had the metal fail. Sorry folks, go back to science class. Pretty cool way "blueing" your barrel....
It's not that it needs to be ferrous, it's that the chromium in the stainless steel doesn't allow for consistency of the oxidation. There are some bluings out there that will do it, but it never really looks right in my opinion. The reason steel is blued is to protect it, stainless is already protected as it is more corrosion resistant.
It needs to be as clean as possible when you start to heat it. Do not touch it with your bare hands, hold it with a wire through the bore. Wipe it down with a clean cotton cloth then heat it as uniformly as possible. Then drop it into the oil. No not touch it with anything when its hot. That patch in the middle looks like you may have touched it with a rag when it was hot. Best of luck next time. Alan
Looks lovely, but I'm concerned about the steel getting weak from the heat? Well, I suppose the quick plunge takes care of that - am I correct? I may experiment with this on some small screws and such. TY for the video.
I tried this with an item and I torched one spot longer than I guess I was supposed to and it turned this brownish burnt color. Is there any way to get the metal back to that nice blue color? Thanks for reading, please reply.
Hi only way is to rub it down to bare metal and do it again. Do it slowly and work on the thicker areas first and let the heat transfer to the thinner sections.
Hi, well I use new engine oil, and keep it just for bluing. I don't know if the process upsets the oil or not. It looks just the same! As for using used oil for bluing I have tried that and it gave a black finish. Could be useful for some parts I suppose. Alan
@@marcokauenhowen773 as long as you familiarize yourself with the colors and what temperature they represent you should be fine, it's not so much the warping as the hardness you want it to end
@DystopianEmpire01 Come on guys lets have some sensable comments. How can you warp or weaken brazed joints by heating to 560 degF when you have just had the whole thing glowing cherry red to braze it in the first place.
@GWR4079 I'd say this is very unlikely. A barrel must be ready for high temperatures, the temperature of bluing is nothing. Some vintage revolvers had this even performed in the factory.
Lets see from my younger days heat metal to cherry red and quench that hardens the steel, now polish the steel reheat and carefully whatch for the colour change first its a light staw colour then it gets darker once past the blue colour its all over red rover gotta do it all again question how do you blue the brazing???? now scribers where a straw colour and centre punches were a dark blue called hardening and tempering food for thought
Hi Alan this is a nice video you got here. I wanted to do this on my bicycle i have a chromoly steel road frame. Im just concern of how the torching might affect the frame's welds and the durability of the steel do you think it's possible to this without affecting the steel badly? Thanks
wow that looks really good.. I was hoping I could use an oven to do this.. but I'm guessing no.. lol.. if I ever get a torch I might be able to blue some my gun parts.. neat.. would a butane torch be able to get 1/4" and 1/8" steel .. I guess I could put some effort forward n try.. just don't wanna have to remake parts that all ready work.. lol
That is one kind of example of a type of blueing have you made other videos about you working on this barrel from the start braising and how do you finish it from here on in including the wooden stock? I have always wanted to want the work done to make a gun from scratch. Take care mrbluenun
If you look at my channel you will see engraving, the finished gun and bullet moulding. I have taken more details off my website due to excessive band width use. Thanks for looking.
Hi, well I have tools I made 35 years ago which still have blue on them. As for my gun its had 8 mths of strips / rebuilds and field trips. Its got minor scuffs and where parts slide its worn off, it now has a pleasant used aged look. As any gun I rub it over with an oily rag after use. Alan
Not good idea for home made jet fuel on bmx frames the welds weaken, could cause to fractures then cracks, best to buy jet fuel parts, I only search this video to maybe try to do rims
Not that is matters anyway, I don't have to shoot it. I would have used mild steel rods for the brazing, and cleaned them up with a grinder before polishing. Those bronze gobbs look kinda messy.
All steel is ferrous until it is heated and kept above critical temperature. If what you said was the truth, then explain why stainless steel exhaust heat anodizes?
Hi, Don't know on that one. If you mean a traditional rifle with explosives I would not try. If you mean the knife I would say probably yes but you may upset the tempering of it. Alan
Hell yea it will. Yellow haze color is @ 400 that's the tep most knives are tempered to to bring the hardness down from the original quench. Look up midway vids on rust blueing and take the time to get the pro results.
This is an AIR GUN... DON'T try on a high power firearm! You'll wreck the temper on the barrel of a powder charged firearm! You would have to re-temper your barrel preferably by a gunsmith! I did a similar treatment on the bottom metal and floor plate on my father's rifle and re-tempered it in the oven, but didn't touch the action or barrel...
I really don't care not everyone knows that is an air gun.. and someone might just try that on a real gun then you guys have caused that....think about others safety.
Anyone know what'll happen if you do this to a motorcycle exhaust? I'm sure it'll work initially, I'm just wondering if over time the finish will burn away and look ugly.
me and my little brother figured out a recipe to make the strongest metal in history and plan on making a new kind of metal that we plan on calling Mythril will the oil bluing process weaken impurity-free metal ?.
Bluing is for reducing oxidation on metal. It works really good. But, you must not scratch it after you blue your item. Do not worry. It is not very easily scratched.
im guessing this doesnt get hot enough to cause issues with the steels temper. it looks like hes working on firearm parts from some sort of rifle. ive been thinking about doing this with an old battered rifle myself does anyone know if it could cause a high caliber barrel to lose its temper and become unsafe?
I am restoring an old side by side and am looking for an ez way to restore the case color of the receiver, I had to strip and sand it as i had lots of rust so all the case color was removed. Will heating and quenching in oil have any negative affect on the strength of the steel?
Still would'nt do it, the reciever is going to include the breech face. I've been a gunsmith and tool & die maker for 30 odd years. this is not youtube crackpot advice.
Ryan Ehlis HillyBilly is absolutely correct. Coming from another gunsmith; this method will alter the heat treatment on the receiver. A soft receiver, especially on a side by side, is not what you want in front of your face when firing. The breech face, among other parts, will not hold up.
Winston Churchill well it is all done, receiver has been torch blued and quenched in oil, i shot a few clays with it, seams fine, locks up tight, and looks good. my understanding is that torch bluing happens around 600 degrees, far colder than what is needed to change the steel hardness. Also modern steel shotgun is made with large margin for safety. The receiver and breech face seams to be cast iron? fairly heavy construction.
Hi, Well its coming up to 2 years old and no sign of rust. It has been kept indoors and I do wipe it down with 3 in 1 oil now and again. Where parts slide its come off and where I hold and twist to remove the pressure tube its getting fainter. There are a few battle scars but on the whole its still good. Reject parts left out in my workshop have not fared so well, with typical neglect light rust, so it needs to be looked after. Anyway hope that helps Alan
nice way to destroy a gun it is much easier to just rust blue your gun then this dont let any one tell you it wont hurt the barrel or any high pressure points BUT if you want to take a chance you go for it mate myself i will rust blue or i will use the blue wonder treatment
Beautiful barrel! As for concerns posted here about annealing, no it won't happen at those temperatures... if anything tempering will occur yet any case hardening that was done beforehand will remain... hardened outer surface with a malleable core.
Well gun is nearly 3 years old and bluing is still good. It has come off where parts slide and minor scrapes from use. I wipe it down with 3 in 1 oil after use.
LightningAlan 3 in 1 on the outside only, it leaves a varnish internally due to the oils solvent evaporating gunks up the works!
I've used this same process (except I keep my oil warm by putting the tray on a cast iron stove) on 1911s and shotguns. Leaves a beautiful blue finish. Easy touch up, just repeat.
Does it effect the strength!
how does it resist rust?
It can in fact work, I've done it with stainless steel parts for my Lonewolf Longhorn knife. Depending on the size, thickness, shape, and type of the steel you will have to adjust heat accordingly.
Personally, depending on what I'm trying to do or what look I want I will either go with mild oil bluing, or full on Carbonizing of the steel. In either case standard motor oil works well, in fact anything containing carbon will work, like WD-40 haha. Be careful as some compounds are also volatile.
No guessing. Try it yourself. Use a piece of carbon steel, heat to cherry red and allow to cool slowly. It will be soft. Work it to the shape you want and polish it as best you can. Heat to cherry red and plunge into water. It will be rock hard and brittle. Polish again and slowly heat to blue , plunge in oil. It will be tempered like a spring. If you are making a knife or chisel it will be better to leave the cutting edge yellow as that will be harder and hold an edge better.
Have fun
Alan
Absolutely beautiful.....I've watched many videos, and I do believe heat is a necessity in bluing...whether you are cold bluing, or hot bluing with oil. Thank you for the video.
I appreciate what you tried to do here - but frankly, between the howling of the blow torch and the heavy accent I could not for the life of me understand one single syllable.
What heavy accent was that then? 😁🤔🧐🏴🇬🇧
Tslil Censor Metal + Heat + oil = Bluing
Very complicated stuff.....🙄
Check blacksmithing sites for what temperatures create which colors. I think you will find that blue is well up into the tempering region, and that it will affect the hardness of the steel, and the strength. If you have an old side-by-side, the barrels are soldered with a solder that melts well below the tempering temperature, just so it does not change the temper. If you heat an old side-by-side to this heat, you will have a basket of parts, as it will come apart. Case coloring is done at 1400 degF for 3 hours, followed by 1100 degrees for an hour, submerged in charcoal. Your solder will not take this, and neither will the tempering of the barrels. Short answer, DONT DO IT
I did it on an old single break barrel shotgun that was beat up, I used black used oil got a real nice finish looks brand new. But like you said unless your into metallurgy and know what your doing with tempering or just using it to hang up on the wall, watch out. It’s going to look good but be super brittle and probably not safe to fire. You can do it on things like your trigger and hammer and whatnot without too much repercussion.
Yes be carefull what you do. bear in mind you temper steel by heating it. the colours change at set temperatures, indead thats the way I use to temper parts. Springs are tempered to blue with most other things not so hot. The plunge does not reset the hardness but holds it where it is. So experiment first and good luck.
Alan
I wanted to add that the cleaner the oil the more blue and purples you get the dirtier the oil esepicialy from carbon in the oil the darker black you get. So if you want to get super dark black getting some oil out of a large diesel that being pitched would be a good idea. If you do not like getting diesel oil used you can also add graphite 1 cup per gallon to regular gasoline/petrol used more oil to add in more carbon sources.
There's a lot of people on here who think they're Metallurgists.
since he's only heating the steel to only 560deg and quenching in oil (which takes the heat away a lot slower) he's not causing any major changes to the metal. The critical temperature for hardening (makes the metal go brittle) is much higher, about 800deg.
Hi,
No, its got to be spotless before you heat it. No fingerprints, wipe it with a clean cloth and then heat it, ideally hanging. Take it slow and warm it as uniformly as pos. heat the thick bits first and the heat will travel to the thin bits. For a knife I would suggest blue on the body of it to give it a spring like temper but you would want to keep the cutting edge harder so dark straw would be good. (I assume its a carbon steel) Plunge it into the oil as soon as the colours are right.
Alan
the proper way to do it is by using bluing salts, such as Nitreblue from Brownell's. Oil quenching results in hard, brittle parts. Hopefully you heat treated them afterwards.
LightningAlan I must say you are the man! Cant wait to try out this bluing technique! Not that I really have anything that needs blueing currently but I'm sure I can find something to blue. I get free unused engine oil from work (we recycle motor oil) so that will be a plus. If I ever make it over seas I am coming to visit you! I had to destroy the oil burner I made though as It would have surely burnt down my barn with more use. That or land me in the hospital. Keep up the vids nice website to
They look fantastic. Great job.
@TheNoke65 No hardening will occur from this 240°C (blue). One needs to quench from 830°C into water or from 1050°C into oil. This is for the 1095 steel, but other steels work similar and the only major difference is in the temperatures of annealing.
How to reach this temperature at home?
People keep commenting about the risk the heat poses to the temper of the metal. It's nonsense. The temperatures are no where near hot enough to weaken your barrel's strength. I have personally fired machine guns until the barrels were cherry red hot and never had the metal fail. Sorry folks, go back to science class. Pretty cool way "blueing" your barrel....
Yeah, I guess all these gun experts have never felt their barrel after firing it multiple rounds. Ha ha!
It's not that it needs to be ferrous, it's that the chromium in the stainless steel doesn't allow for consistency of the oxidation. There are some bluings out there that will do it, but it never really looks right in my opinion. The reason steel is blued is to protect it, stainless is already protected as it is more corrosion resistant.
It got a nice blue color, Thanks for sharing
nice way to anneal metal...
Absolutely beautiful ! And so easy .
It needs to be as clean as possible when you start to heat it. Do not touch it with your bare hands, hold it with a wire through the bore. Wipe it down with a clean cotton cloth then heat it as uniformly as possible. Then drop it into the oil. No not touch it with anything when its hot. That patch in the middle looks like you may have touched it with a rag when it was hot. Best of luck next time.
Alan
I use heat bluing on small parts never had any problems.
Looks is the main reason but I do like to think that it does offer some protection as well allthough looking after it with an oily rag is essential.
Ian Anderson would love to have a flute like than for the next Jethro Tull tour.
very beautiful finish!
If you're outside another way is to use used car oil boil the oil then let it sit for a half hr to an hour
Looks lovely, but I'm concerned about the steel getting weak from the heat? Well, I suppose the quick plunge takes care of that - am I correct? I may experiment with this on some small screws and such. TY for the video.
Beautiful color!
Wouldn't heat up to temperatures high enough to change color as you will likely anneal the steel.
I tried this with an item and I torched one spot longer than I guess I was supposed to and it turned this brownish burnt color. Is there any way to get the metal back to that nice blue color? Thanks for reading, please reply.
Hi only way is to rub it down to bare metal and do it again. Do it slowly and work on the thicker areas first and let the heat transfer to the thinner sections.
Hi, well I use new engine oil, and keep it just for bluing. I don't know if the process upsets the oil or not. It looks just the same!
As for using used oil for bluing I have tried that and it gave a black finish. Could be useful for some parts I suppose.
Alan
LightningAlan I’ve done a shotgun with old black oil and it came out black looks nice too once you give it a light buff
@@HumCo34 what type of oil weight would u prefer? Like 5w20-5w30?
@@HumCo34 Hi i want to do that to.. Do you just heat it with a torch to? Wont that warp te barrel?
@@marcokauenhowen773 as long as you familiarize yourself with the colors and what temperature they represent you should be fine, it's not so much the warping as the hardness you want it to end
@@rebelsyell8832 I just use any old oil I have, you can mess around with different oils and see what it does
nicely done! sir.
Nice results. The blue reminded me of the 2 cycle oil.. ever tried that? Looks like it'd give really good strong results, also.
@DystopianEmpire01 Come on guys lets have some sensable comments. How can you warp or weaken brazed joints by heating to 560 degF when you have just had the whole thing glowing cherry red to braze it in the first place.
@GWR4079 I'd say this is very unlikely. A barrel must be ready for high temperatures, the temperature of bluing is nothing. Some vintage revolvers had this even performed in the factory.
that looks beautiful dude, thnx
best technique ever i want to do this to well my gun but do you use the oil before after or in between heating ?
So you oil first then blow torch it, then re - oil again? I would like to do this process to a knife blade. Looks great, thanks for the video.
Lets see from my younger days heat metal to cherry red and quench that hardens the steel, now polish the steel reheat and carefully whatch for the colour change first its a light staw colour then it gets darker once past the blue colour its all over red rover gotta do it all again question how do you blue the brazing???? now scribers where a straw colour and centre punches were a dark blue called hardening and tempering food for thought
YOU NEED 2 TURN THE VOLUME UP WHEN U RECORD. HAVE HEADPHONES ON WITH VOLUME ALL THE WAY UP AND NOT ABLE TO MAKE OUT ANYTHING YOU SAY.
I blue myself.
Must hurt.
Hi Alan this is a nice video you got here. I wanted to do this on my bicycle i have a chromoly steel road frame. Im just concern of how the torching might affect the frame's welds and the durability of the steel do you think it's possible to this without affecting the steel badly? Thanks
Kris Viacrusis it wont hurt the structural integrity of your bike in the slightest bit...it wont affect welds etc at all....
wow that looks really good.. I was hoping I could use an oven to do this.. but I'm guessing no.. lol.. if I ever get a torch I might be able to blue some my gun parts.. neat.. would a butane torch be able to get 1/4" and 1/8" steel .. I guess I could put some effort forward n try.. just don't wanna have to remake parts that all ready work.. lol
To take the temperature out of the metal you must get the metal hot enough where it loses magnetivity
lawrence Powel are you ok there?
looks perfect great work! does it work by a k98 steel?
That is one kind of example of a type of blueing have you made other videos about you working on this barrel from the start braising and how do you finish it from here on in including the wooden stock? I have always wanted to want the work done to make a gun from scratch.
Take care
mrbluenun
If you look at my channel you will see engraving, the finished gun and bullet moulding. I have taken more details off my website due to excessive band width use. Thanks for looking.
Hi, Many thanks!
Take care
mrbluenun
Hi,
well I have tools I made 35 years ago which still have blue on them. As for my gun its had 8 mths of strips / rebuilds and field trips. Its got minor scuffs and where parts slide its worn off, it now has a pleasant used aged look. As any gun I rub it over with an oily rag after use.
Alan
Yes it works fine. I used oil from that green oil bottle in the video
Looks great
what oil your using...thanks..
Hi Alen, very nice video! Are you in England? I hear it's hard to even own a gun there?
can i do this on bmx bike frame ?
Janis Jermaks if there is no paint on jour frame jou can do it I think
Not good idea for home made jet fuel on bmx frames the welds weaken, could cause to fractures then cracks, best to buy jet fuel parts, I only search this video to maybe try to do rims
Not that is matters anyway, I don't have to shoot it.
I would have used mild steel rods for the brazing, and cleaned them up with a grinder before polishing. Those bronze gobbs look kinda messy.
WHAT I CAN'T HEAR YOU WITH ALL THE NOISE
NICE finish ! thanks for the post :)
Is this a zinc alloy or steel
"WHAAAT!? CAN YOU SPEAK UP, MATE!"
Does someone knows how much temperature is required to do this process?
How does this compare to salt bluing in regards to durability, and protection of the firearm?
All steel is ferrous until it is heated and kept above critical temperature. If what you said was the truth, then explain why stainless steel exhaust heat anodizes?
Hi,
Don't know on that one. If you mean a traditional rifle with explosives I would not try. If you mean the knife I would say probably yes but you may upset the tempering of it.
Alan
Hi,
It's a seamless hydraulic tube. full spec, "Steel, fine grain quality (RR) St.37.4 per DIN 1630" .
LightningAlan Hi can you please tell me what kind of torch you were using? Butane, acetylene, propane? Thanks!
Propane
I used butane with a really hot torch end, and the results came out just as good :)
Will this affect the metals hardness?
Yes
Hell yea it will. Yellow haze color is @ 400 that's the tep most knives are tempered to to bring the hardness down from the original quench. Look up midway vids on rust blueing and take the time to get the pro results.
@leoisforevercool no its to protect it from rust..
could this be done to a shotgun barrel or guns in general like a 45 ACP?
Yes. Just get it down to bare clean metal. Iv did several things around the house.
@@mattperry1449 So a shotgune barrel wont warp if you heat it up?
Awsome!!!
How well does this hold up to wear
Would I be able to do this with the stainless steel liners I have in my knife?
used/dirty motor oil makes it a deeper dark blue
that is beautiful
This Guy is trying to get someone hurt. Do not heat your gun that hot ever!
This is an AIR GUN... DON'T try on a high power firearm! You'll wreck the temper on the barrel of a powder charged firearm! You would have to re-temper your barrel preferably by a gunsmith! I did a similar treatment on the bottom metal and floor plate on my father's rifle and re-tempered it in the oven, but didn't touch the action or barrel...
I really don't care not everyone knows that is an air gun.. and someone might just try that on a real gun then you guys have caused that....think about others safety.
Darwin at work.
sometimes it's better to sit in silence and be thought a fool than to open YOUR mouth and remove all doubt.
Anyone know what'll happen if you do this to a motorcycle exhaust? I'm sure it'll work initially, I'm just wondering if over time the finish will burn away and look ugly.
Can this be done to s 12 ga shotgun barrel and receiver. ASAP
I'm impressed
Hey lightningAlan, would I be able to do this to my battered old air arms TX200?
@wakigold Hi, I just use new normal low cost car engine oil. not fully synthetic.
Alan
@LightningAlan
Hello,
What kind of oil do you use?
what Exact temperature gave you these colors? thanks
I tried on stainless steel and its color faded you can help me keep it color longer. Thank you
stainless steel wont take a blue, it's in the name
I was taught to use used old motor oil. Does it matter?
I've used Sunnen honing oil. Very dark with a high sulfer content.
What kind of airgun did you make?
me and my little brother figured out a recipe to make the strongest metal in history and plan on making a new kind of metal that we plan on calling Mythril will the oil bluing process weaken impurity-free metal ?.
Great bro 👍👊
What is bluing exactly for? It's only for looks right?
Bluing is for reducing oxidation on metal. It works really good. But, you must not scratch it after you blue your item. Do not worry. It is not very easily scratched.
Does it yield against rust
is titanium or stainless?
Really nice mate, I bet you get abit of hardening too in the process. is that solderings or welds? willl welds blue too? Thanks
beutiful engravings
im guessing this doesnt get hot enough to cause issues with the steels temper. it looks like hes working on firearm parts from some sort of rifle. ive been thinking about doing this with an old battered rifle myself does anyone know if it could cause a high caliber barrel to lose its temper and become unsafe?
he said it was an airgun
Hi,
No, stainless steel does not work the same, its got to be a ferrous metal.
Alan
Stainless is ferrous.
I am restoring an old side by side and am looking for an ez way to restore the case color of the receiver, I had to strip and sand it as i had lots of rust so all the case color was removed. Will heating and quenching in oil have any negative affect on the strength of the steel?
Absolutely, It will render it unsafe to fire.
Nerd well i talking about the striped receiver only. The bbl is being refinished using mild heat (175 degrees) and cold blue and browning solution
Still would'nt do it, the reciever is going to include the breech face. I've been a gunsmith and tool & die maker for 30 odd years. this is not youtube crackpot advice.
Ryan Ehlis HillyBilly is absolutely correct. Coming from another gunsmith; this method will alter the heat treatment on the receiver. A soft receiver, especially on a side by side, is not what you want in front of your face when firing. The breech face, among other parts, will not hold up.
Winston Churchill well it is all done, receiver has been torch blued and quenched in oil, i shot a few clays with it, seams fine, locks up tight, and looks good. my understanding is that torch bluing happens around 600 degrees, far colder than what is needed to change the steel hardness. Also modern steel shotgun is made with large margin for safety. The receiver and breech face seams to be cast iron? fairly heavy construction.
This is TH-cam. You don't get sensible comments from senseless people.
GREAT VID!
You mean ferritic? Ferrous means it contains iron in its composition.
Hi,
Well its coming up to 2 years old and no sign of rust.
It has been kept indoors and I do wipe it down with 3 in 1 oil now and again.
Where parts slide its come off and where I hold and twist to remove the pressure tube its getting fainter. There are a few battle scars but on the whole its still good.
Reject parts left out in my workshop have not fared so well, with typical neglect light rust, so it needs to be looked after.
Anyway hope that helps
Alan
What type of oil
how to remove old rust and make shiny easily ?
That is cool as shit please make more videos!
nice way to destroy a gun it is much easier to just rust blue your gun then this dont let any one tell you it wont hurt the barrel or any high pressure points BUT if you want to take a chance you go for it mate myself i will rust blue or i will use the blue wonder treatment