Butcher Block vs Quartz Countertops | Everything you need to know!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 มิ.ย. 2024
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Chapters
0:00 Introduction
1:04 How butcher block is made
3:00 How quartz countertops are made
4:43 Appearance
5:23 Porosity
6:38 Sponsor
7:44 Cost
8:48 Hardness and scratch-resistance
9:41 Heat resistance
10:14 Conclusion
Countertop trends seem to change every single year and social media is fuelling this movement. Homeowners are encouraged to upgrade their work surfaces regularly to the latest trend to add value to their home. Butcher block and quartz countertops are the two most popular choices right now. Both materials can redefine the look and functionality of a kitchen or bathroom and create a space that reflects your personal style.
Butcher block countertops are made from strips of wood which are glued together to create a solid, durable surface. Butcher blocks can be made from nearly any wood, but the most common ones are maple, walnut, beech, cherry and red oak. They can also be crafted from teak, bamboo and sustainably farmed exotics like wenge, zebrawood, and iroko. The top finish coat not only enhances the natural beauty of the wood but also provides protection against moisture, stains, and bacteria. It's important to note that using mineral oil or beeswax to seal your butcher block countertop involves regular oiling or resealing to prevent drying, cracking, and staining.
Quartz, on the other hand, is an engineered stone made from a combination of natural quartz crystals and resins, resulting in a non-porous and stain-resistant surface. To make countertops, white and clear quartz or silicon dioxide is ground into a fine powder. It is mixed with plastic resins, colored pigments, recycled glass and metallic flecks. Quartz countertops are a fairly new product. They were invented in the 1960s and have recently become very popular because of their durability, low maintenance and wide range of color and pattern options. The manufacturing process of quartz countertops is more energy intensive than butcher blocks.
Butcher blocks add warmth and natural coloring to a space. Wood mixes well with many other countertop materials, like granite, concrete, marble and quartz. Quartz countertops are usually more minimalist, lighter in color and have uniform designs.
Next, let’s compare their porosity which refers to the amount of voids that allow liquid and air to pass through. Porosity determines the material’s susceptibility to water, oil and food stains. As expected, butcher blocks are very sensitive to liquid so you must limit any exposure to moisture. On the other hand, quartz didn’t absorb any of the liquid and wasn’t affected by the food coloring. They have the same susceptibility to oil. The unsealed butcher block was permanently stained, while the quartz sample was unaffected.
One of the biggest advantages of butcher block countertops is cost. Butcher block is one of the most affordable countertop materials. With installation, it costs $40-$100 per sqft, much cheaper than quartz, which costs $100-$200 per sq ft. Their cost difference directly relates to their DIY-ability. We used basic tools to cut holes for the sink and faucet, route the edge and smoothen the surfaces.
Butcher blocks are also not as heat resistant as quartz. You can’t place hot pots and pans on the wood because it will develop gouges and deep burn marks. Fortunately, sanding will take off a thin layer from the surface and eliminate any blemishes. Quartz countertops are heat resistant, but not heat-proof. You should avoid placing very hot pans on the surface since anything over 150 degrees Fahrenheit can permanently damage the resin in quartz.
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#butcherblock #quartz #countertops #diy #remodel #kitchen #construction #architecture #design - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
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Which countertop would you prefer? Quartz is definitely lower maintenance, but recent reports of silicosis among workers who manufacture and install quartz countertops concerns me. I'm conducting some interviews and researching this topic. I'll try to publish a video on silicosis soon!
Strange to call it butcher block. A real butcher block has the end grain facing upwards.
I went with limestone countertops in my kitchen. It looks great as long as I avoid cooking in the kitchen.
😂
Lovely surface but oh so capable of stains. Also not very sustainable but then what is?
Just avoid acidic or water based foods
I can't believe I live in a country/world where I'm not sure if "it looks great as long as I avoid cooking in the kitchen" is sarcastic or for real. 😱
@@justinsayin3979 a little bit of both. I use rubber mats everywhere and zero tolerance policy toward other cooks in my kitchen.
We had butcher block countertops in my fathers NYC deli that received daily, commercial level abuse. The best thing about it is you can just take a belt sander and smooth it out. If you’re actually going to do serious cooking and prep on the counter, go for the butcher block.
I worked in commercial kitchens as well. True butcherblock or stainless steel both worked well. Easy to keep clean and durable.
Wood counter tops have to be sealed on all six sides. Any time water meets wood, the wood acts like a straw, especially end grain. Wood always moves in response to humidity... expanding and contracting. Wooden counter tops in high humidity environments will always be problematic. The maintenance of wood never ends.
Use hard wax oil and the maintenance becomes super simple. The underside won't need reapplication, and neither, I'd expect, would the sides of a 'waterfall' counter. The ends of the counter top would either be butted against the wall or other cabinetry, or, if not, would hardly require much maintenance. No need to sand back layers of plastic coatings... In high humidity, is bamboo, like they do in the tropic of Asia. Bamboo is dense and very fast-growing.
Butcher block counters are ideal if you are into working with dough. Bread, pasta, pastry, anything that needs to be rolled out on a floured surface works best on wood as the texture of the grain helps evenly distribute your bench flour over the surface. We chose walnut and only seal them every 3 months but we live in a humid environment. You do have to be careful with wet metal as the wood will react with the moisture and metal of a pot lid and leave a ring that has to be sanded off and refinished. But we like the look of a lived in kitchen so we keep the rings.
Butcherblock actually refers to the end grain, not just normal strips glued together no matter how thick. When you finish wood with a heavy polyurethane finish, they are no longer good for what wood is usually used for, like as a cutting board or for working doughs for baking.
Quartz will most definitely chip. You have to be careful when placing heavy cast iron pots/pans in the sink or it will chip the edges. I learned that the hard way a couple days after the installation.
I was wondering if a tempered glass seal could be put onto stone, but then why do you need stone 🤷
I’m also guessing quartz isn’t as porous as granite, which I never understood why people would want a sponge in their kitchen absorbing food, oils and small food particles.
Another interesting post. In our work/home we have three kitchens. One has quartz material, one is granite and one was created using 4x8 porcelain tiles. The granite one so far requires the most maintenance. Occasionally we re-apply sealer. Both the quartz material and porcelain tile we just wipe down. And yes. We are careful with heat for the quartz. The porcelain tile can take very hot objects. The one caution with porcelain is that a heavy object dropped onto the surface might crack the material.
The grout is generally the Achilles heel of a tile countertop. What has been your experience with that?
I wouldn’t have thought of using butcher block in a bathroom, that looks good! It looks like it might make a good table top for hobbyists and crafters too!
The first time I watched one of your videos, I became an instant fan!
The information you provide is thoughtfully prepared and professionally presented.
Being able to see how things are manufactured and what products are used makes your videos even more interesting and informative.
Thank you for your quality video production and the valuable content you provide.
Me too! I love her method! “Just the facts ma’am!” Pertinent, informative data. No silly fluff!
I would love a review/comparison of store bought butcher block materials! I will be doing butcher block countertops in my kitchen in a few months, plus my brother is doing butcher block countertops in his kitchen AND bathroom in a few months, so we're both already trying to evaluate the material options. Thanks for this comparison video and the polyurethane recommendation - I've heard of other waxing and oiling options, but had a feeling that good ole polyurethane may still be the most practical choice.
I added formica countertops to my kitchen, buying one and making two small others. You can lean against it and it does not freeze you, it warms up when you put your hand on it. The look I chose was suede, and I love it. I have tile in my bathroom and it is frightfully cold. Tile and granite can stain easily and require maintenance. Wood and formica don't. I like quartz much better than granite or tile because it requires less maintenance, but it can stain. My favorite wood finish is a modified tung/linseed/rosin oil clearcoat finish called Waterlox Original Satin. I'll put that on a butcher block topper in the bathroom when I finally get tired of the tile.
Question: Did you brush your first coat of poly, then wipe on the remaining coats? Waterlox is a wiping finish, too. I truly love it.
My house flooded & the kitchen had to be rebuilt. We also decided to get formica countertops. Cleanup is super easy. Since my wife & I grew up in homes with it and don’t plan to sell soon, we feel like saving our money was the right thing to do. In a few years we might decide to put in something else, but hopefully next time it’ll be a planned renovation.
Woodworker checking in. Polyurethane is a good sealant. HOWEVER - for high water environments, a scratch will allow moisture to get underneath the finish and both stain the wood and cause bubbling with polyurethane. Once you get a scratch, the whole thing will need to be stripped and refinished. Oil finishes, like BLO (boiled linseed oil), will soak in and harden into an impervious barrier. Some oil finishes, like Tung, will create an even better water resistance coating that soaks into the wood while sealing it against scratches. Using a wax cleaner will continually maintain the waterproofness without having to do any other maintenance.
If I use tung oil, how often do I need to reseal if I use a wax cleaner? Can you give me an example of a wax cleaner?
@@SarahHoffmanAR I use one by 7th Generation. For Tung Oil, I haven't needed to redo it. If I were to, I'd lightly rub some 1000 grit sandpaper over everything, apply it (making sure to mix with mineral spirits - pure tung can take a loooong time to cure, like a month or more), use a heat gun to rub it down after 10-15 mins or so. That'll help to get it into the wood and allow it to dry faster (1-2 days).
I’ve had good experiences with oil based wipe on polyurethane it does soak into the wood and fairly easy to repair
I love how thorough this video was.
I like combining them with epoxy countertop. You can do epoxy over existing countertops and update the look without throwing the old countertops away. Or make a new one with plywood and epoxy. Also you can relatively easily update the look down the road with a new coat. It would be interesting to hear your thoughts on the different epoxy countertop solutions.
@BelindaCarr, your dedication to ensuring the safety and well-being of everyone involved in the renovation process is commendable. We eagerly look forward to your video on silicosis, as this knowledge will undoubtedly prove beneficial for our industry. Keep up the vital work of shedding light on these critical topics!
Another great video. I am doing some work with butcher block now and I do prefer it. I reuse materials and actually butcher block has some nice character flaws that just look cool. Thank you. Love your sink too!
Poly or not,I would never install butcherblock in a high humidity bathroom environment. Plus, the strongest chemicals you'll ever use in your house are those to clean your bathroom. That's just looking for trouble.
250K SUBS, THAT DIDN'T TAKE LONG! Not surprised, well done Belinda.
I would love to see you do a similar video on granite vs. Concrete countertops. Concrete seems to be gaining in Popularity but I was surprised to find out it’s even more expensive than granite!
I love concrete countertops, however pouring them yourself is where the savings come from. They need to be quite thick though.
Yes and no.
concrete countertop costs comparatively very little in raw material, but is a hell of a lot more time consuming, both in terms of prep and drying delays. A contractor worth his name will need several visits which all add up substantially to the cost.
That being said, it can be done diy.
As for granite, the only cost you can handle are the measurements and the prep so that upon delivery is installed and done.
You are such an inspiration. Love your channel
Thanks this was very informative
Great Video for anyone who is trying to decide what to choose, or simply just curious. It would be terrific to hear a comparison of different vendors for either one of these materials. Thanks !
Vendors from every city in the world?
+1 ... We were fortunate in finding a Bowling Alley going out of business. . The bowling lanes' length was cut into 12ft to 15ft lengths; I forget. . Bloody heavy... this I do recall. . Anywho,,, the recycled lanes made for a superior large kitchen island top; Complete with sight line markings.. Cheers,
My only objection to wood countertops is that so many people come to grief because they don't understand wood! you have to attach the countertops with relief slots to allow for expansion and contraction, you have to seal all six sides evenly or the uneven finish (finished top and unfinished underside) will induce cupping and warping. My solution for burning is a set of huge Victorian highly decorative trivets that remain out on the countertop beside the stove at all times. I prefer quartz for around the sink, since I have never seen a wood countertop that didn't get moldy in that application. The wood tops add so much warmth (and improve acoustics!) so I use them often. Great analysis, Belinda. Thanks
I am enjoying your videos. Thank you so much.
It makes me believe there are true educators out there that do NOT have to belong to subversive teacher unions.
Alrways great to watch one of your videos.
Great video, but also wanted to add that quartz countertops can also stain if its left for a while
I always do my kitchen islands with maple and mineral oil. It has been working well for more than 42 years. Great for baking.
Thank you for the information. The home i bought recently came with a butcher's block usland and i gave been thinking about looking up the maintenance requirements do yhis information is really useful.
I think I prefer butcher block, at least in the kitchen, but I wouldn't use polyurethane with food. I'd seal with oil. I agree the patina from use can be beautiful.
Totally agree! Isocyanates and food don't mix!
I selected Caesarstone in Apple Martini Green for my kitchen back in 2014. I love it.
I work in commercial (not residential) casework manufacturing. Quartz and laminate are the most popular countertops in my region, followed by solid surface (Corian), and distantly by stone and butcher block. In my own house we inherited tile, which handles heat very well, but the grout is hard to keep clean. I'd love to see comparisons on all of the surfaces.
Excellent Video, again. In my experience , butcher block is easier on knives if you are using it as a prep surface. Also, depending on your tastes, the nicks, cuts, gouges, etc add to overall look of butcher block over time as it wears. Having said that, I do like quartz for other jobs on the house.
Thats why I have both in my kitchen!
If you use the right type of epoxy on wood it can be more heat resistant. Alumilite epoxies for instance can handle over 400 degrees so you can basically go from oven or stove top directly to counter top. I recommend coating all sides just like you would with poly urethane and then a flood coat on top to make a basically solid surface. Once it gets beat up and scratched over time you can sand and redcoat with a thin layer or polish it with a car buffer and some polishing compound.
Using recycled or legitimately sustainable wood is best for butcher's blocks. Hard wax oil won't require repeated sanding back like polyurethane does. Also contains less plastic which would otherwise end up in our water systems and food chain. Regular wiping down will maintain the timber. Quartz might be hard, but it's easily chipped. It's cold to touch, and glass and crockery are more likely to smash if dropped on it. Also, stone and quartz have led to a shocking rise in silicosis amongst workers...
Yeah, I’ve heard about that and it’s very concerning. The manufacturers say they can avoid that with the proper precautions but it’s not their lungs on the line. Safety precautions in so many industries are frequently skimped if not ignored entirely. (Government regulators like OSHA have been completely defanged since the 80s. )And that’s assuming we’ve identified practices that can fully protect workers. It can take decades to discover the precautions are inadequate.
I have a kitchen with granite on one half and butcher block on the other half. I put the butcher block in so I could use it as a huge chopping board next to the oven. This has worked well. I oiled and waxed it first, Then the occasional application of wax keeps it from misbehaving. The real benefit is that is was super cheap so if it gets messed up, I'll just get another slab and replace it but the patina of knife marks and wax look pretty cool. If I did it again, I think I would go butcher block all around.
Yes. Please compare the butcher blocks!!
Thanks!
My house proudly sports 1980's era green Formica countertops laminated over particle board cores.
Installed a Formica countertop in the 90s that got a lot of compliments over the years. Mostly though, it was just so carefree compared to other options.
As always great informative content! Thankyou!
Could you make a video about SIP (structural insulated panel) homes? I am interested about your opinion!
Thank You, Belinda! Your information on butcher block counter tops was information. And, Yes, a comparison of butcher blocks would be wonderful. Quartz really does not interest me. TU ❤
You can have BOTH: I had black quartz installed as a countertop and then added a low and a high butcher block as the actual work surfaces that can also be moved around. To make the wood "pop" in the overall image, each butcher block is lit from above with a Nordlux MIB pendant light (Halogen, not LED... to bring out the natural wood color better).
Butcher block surfaces that can be moved around... You mean a cutting board? 😂
The only way oil &/or wax finish makes sense for wood countertops in a kitchen is if you plan on using the surface for food prep (which will guarantee stains & show knife cuts). This is a personal choice. If low maintenance is a concern, portable cutting boards or mats are a must along with heat resistant trivets as standard practice.
Regardless (and if U have kids around then ESPECIALLY regardless) countertops will sustain damage over time, just accept it. Knives, pots, etc. get dropped, stuff happens. Countertops are a wear surface & need replacement at intervals.
Well, at those prices I would like those intervals to be pretty long. At least 40 years.
I went with butcher block because I have had butcher block for years. I built a really nice counter top using bowling alley floor and even build a massive 8x4 foot center island once.
Though my new desk is going to be custom built and I am going to use butcher block and then route out enough spots to add in led lighting so that when the tv is playing it will work with the sound. I am also going to route out places for wireless chargers. I have even considered doing some sort of headphone jack and bluethooth amp type thing. I am still looking for what I want. I want a headphone jack to a unit that can send out bluetooth signals in which i can boost the sound along with the base, treble and mid range all while still being able to plug in a headphone jacks at the same time.
I can also inlay a bunch of stuff as well to make the desk quite cool.
Certain stone based countertops will need sealant and regular maintenance of said sealant. There are photos to be found of what looks like unsealed marble being stained by spilled red wine.
On a different note, I scored a slab of what was a bowling alley that I've chopped up into 3 pieces. 2 of the smaller pieces have been flood-coated with epoxy and are now installed in my bathroom. The final 6ft long piece will be flood-coated in epoxy, then going into my kitchenette once I finalize where the induction cooktop and sink are going.
“Light sanding” that’s so funny. This will go by the way of the refinishing of the bathtub.
Thank You for this information
A major drawback of quartz is if a heavy pan or other object is dropped on it it can crack or break.
Suggestion of looking at the many laminate countertop materials (Formica)
I always had really good experiences with Formica. It’s sturdy, not cold to the touch, it’s impervious to liquids and I’ve never seen it stain though I imagine it might if you left wine long enough-like weeks. You can’t cut directly on it, but I’ve never had a desire to apply a knife to my countertop anyway. Granite is beautiful but I don’t feel it’s really practical for a busy lifestyle. I do wonder though about the environmental footprint of Formica though. Heaven knows we don’t need more plastic in the world.
We had a butcher block counter in my kitchen growing up. It had multiple burn marks on it and whatever they used as sealant on top kept pulling away from the wood or flaking off. It was a little warped around the sink. I would never NEVER have any kind of wood countertop. And it's not like it just got left, my parents took care of it and tried multiple things to fix the issues with it, including a refinishing that meant we couldn't use our kitchen for a few days. Butcher block SUCKS when it comes to practicality.
I would liked to have heard you talk about the differences between the three types of butcher block. They differ in durability, scratch resistance and cost. Also if you know,,or can find out, what is the environmental impact of the three? It must also differ.
It would be interesting to exam the differences among major retailers butcher block. Especially environmentally.
thanks kindly. I always find your TH-cams most interesting and thought provoking.
Great video, @BelindaCarr. Your channel is great and quite balanced.
A quick question did you actually mean "homey" rather than "homely"?
1) "Quartz-Composite" is not "Quartz". Please do not abbreviate
2) "Curing a resin (under heat and pressure)" and "Sintering" are entirely different processes. The two ought not to be used interchangeably.
3) Diving further into point#2, true sintered alternatives are available for the polymer-resin-bonded quartz-composites. While the QCs are heat resistant (e.g. boiling water proof) the sintered variants are stable to much higher temperatres (let's say molten lead proof). Their Achilles'-heel is (as is that of quartz composites, to a lesser extent) that they can shatter if you drop a jam-jar or similar upon them from a height of ~1m (~5 bananas). The cheaper wooden alternatives won't shatter; just dent. The sintered material is 2x as expensive as their resin bonded counterparts :(
The price would indeed be a huge drawback, but I would love to read about some examples of these sintered products. Any links or product names you can share?
@@aliannarodriguez1581 Use your favourite search-engine to search for "dekton" (one example). Ultimately, it is hard to beat a thicc slab of e.g. natural granite (which too is mostly quartz). I cam imagine that if you sandwiched/base-supported Dekton with an energy-absorbing material, it would be less prone to brittle fracture, especially if pre-stressed in compression. But that is one experiment outside my budget ;) I'd propose to use a low-tempco ferritic-steel (8.5 PPM/kelvin) to match the CTE of Quartz, and use polka-dots of silicone to bond the dekton to the steel underlayment, and provide levelling and absorption.
My next kitchen will be tool cabinets with butcher block counter tops. The wet area an vintage wall mounted “farmers sink”.
Dear Belinda,
I find that quartz or stone wins out because of their durability and lack of need for maintenance, both when installed and while being stored. I have had a piece of quartz countertop lying behind a shed for years, and it is still perfect, while butcherblock pieces lying around have deteriorated rapidly due to moisture.
I am not a builder by profession, but I do quite a lot of DIY and renovating and find your videos, especially in relation to new and different building technologies.
I would appreciate it if you would consider doing a review of the Wikihouse modular system as I would be really interested to hear your views on how this compares with other innovative building systems.
Kind regards
Jerome
I really like a white quartz countertop which has a lot of veining which in my opinion looks good. I also like to know if different thicknesses are available for quartz countertops or to use as a back splash instead of regular tile?
Another great video Belinda, I have had quartz countertops over 10 years now, Silestone specifically, and couldn't be happier with this product. I am glad I chose this maintenance free product over granite, which is pourous. One thing you didn't mention is quartz, or maybe just Silestone, is the only surface treated with Microban, the anti-bacterial, and odor controlling solution, at least that was the case when I bought it. Thank you for another great, and infomative, episode.
Surely that wears off after a while?
@@aliannarodriguez1581 Not according to the manufacturer
I used epoxy coated acacia wood counters in my do to DIY friendliness and I do not use it for chopping stuff up. They've held up well over 5yrs even with an undermount sink. I even got an acacia wood bench in my shower that looks amazing it's coated with epoxy as well. Downsides are I really shouldn't use them as cutting boards and the table top epoxy might need a recoat in a decade or so. Also I need to use hotpot mittens/holders under hot dishes for obvious reasons. But they look amazing and DIY friendly and fairly inexpensive.
I'm interested to learn more about the flammability of each surface and how well each passes the "meat tenderizer test" - live demonstrations of each test would really help to distinguish the materials.
Use a cutting matt with the tenderizer and you'll be just fine with either surface.
@@kimberleemodel7182 Thanks Kimberlee - I was thinking the same thing as I don't know whether a wooden cutting board would insulate the quartz countertop from the shock of deliberate blows to the board unless it incorporated a spongy intermediate layer. In any case, it's always reassuring when testing of working surfaces in different working scenarios is undertaken including accident scenarios just so that everyone becomes aware of the limitations of the surfaces in the different circumstances - and live testing goes a long way to illustrate this. Perhaps manufacturers should include suitable secondary surfaces as part of their product offerings...
@@bevanthistlethwaite3123use a cutting board and a wet towel under it to stop slipping and cushion impacts. Only a crazy person would use a meat tenderizer on their bare countertop
If you like patina on a surface then marble wins over both. Thanks for mentioning the heat issue quartz has especially as folks assume it is as resistant as granite which it isn't. Lastly quartz can be cut with a wet saw and edged and polished with a polisher and installed by an average healthy person of normal strength up to about 5 or 6 feet depending on how many sink cut outs. Is it safer and easier with 2 people, yes. Is it something you would want to do everyday, no. Most DIY projects are one-offs for people and the extra effort is part of the payoff of seeing a project completed.
Quartz all the way. Non combustible. Can be used as a back splash behind a stove as a design feature. Another edge is the chipped edge to give it a natural stone like look. The house we are renting in Germany has a butcher block counter. It is warm natural look. It is not bad. They have held up well. I remodeled my Hawaii home before selling it with a Cambria Montgomery countertop. Gorgeous counter top. We had it as a backsplash heat shield behind our Blue Star stove.
What are you doing that you need to worry about combustion?
I enjoy your videos very much, but you must also look in the manufacturing consequences of quartz. Silicosis is linked to quartz countertops and many workers are dying of it. It is easy to find the information. This would eliminate quartz in my choice of countertop.
I prefer wood for my counters but slabs of quartz are great for "seam"less shower walls. Commercially a great deal of hotels use it.
Your bathroom counter looks beautiful
I like the boat you're blocked by the course. I'm going to build a lot captain so yeah I don't want quartz. But you mentioned the other one similar to quartz which is not as heavy but I just forgot what it's called buthose are what I would like. In the kitchen and probably in the bathroom it's bad it will go along with the wood somehow. Or a marble may or may not
Marks and burns and stains produce a distinctive appearance and I'll take wood over resin and stone any day. Using natural materials (oils, natural resins) to seal and preserve the wood means it can be repurposed or chipped and composted at the end of life, also replaced (or sections replaced) with minimal skill required. In light of wanting a more sustainable constuction, it just doens't make sense to create another plastic product... Just my 2c worth. I do enjoy your videos and find they often focus me on the sustainable aspects of construction. Thank you for all your research and hard work.
I worked for a quartz countertop company and made many kitchens and bathroom countertops with hand tools and we did not have CNC machines.
Belinda, good as normal but the only quartz con for DYI is weight. You DO NOT NEED A CNC. 99% of stone and quartz countertops were done with a Skillsaw and router before 1999.
You can switch to 1/4 porcelain 5' by 10' slabs and use tile tools.
Concerning Butcher block used in the kitchen, can I still use the poly as a sealer or do I have to use a different product since food is prepped on these countertops? Bc I noticed some sealing products are not allowed in food prep areas
Why would you prep directly on your counter? Its a lot easier to replace a large cutting board
What about stainless steel? How does that match up as a countertop material in the kitchen price-wise?
Hi Belinda, have you considered the risks of SILICOSIS for fabricators and stonemason workers using Quartz? This is a significant unethical risk for Quartz. Please look into this. This is a particular problem with engineered stone due to the high level silica and combined with resin (basically glue) in the product.
It should be noted that manmade stone benchtops are often higher in silicates than natural stone and is leading to an epidemic of silicosis - as workers are "not encouraged enough" (cough) to follow safe work practices - wet grinding and wearing adequate respirators. Education into safe working by "artisans" is important.
Sad when "Quartz" means synthetic benchtop, rather than a real natural material -- has "Granite" been similarly coopted?
can you make a video on concrete countertops?
I have Wilsonart solid surface countertops in my kitchen and bathroom. I prefer this option. I manufactured it to have a coved backsplash. Makes for a good look and you don't get a buildup of crud in the the corner, especially behind the sink. Scratches and such can be sanded out easily and it is non porous. Ive built many for people over the years. As with any material there are advantages and disadvantages. I enjoy your videos!
What area do you serve?
Maryland,DC, and Northern Virginia
I have lived with a solid oak contertop for 10 years now, uit's been treated with a hardwax oil and it's still going strong, might be in need of a resurfacing in a few years.
Give me a solid block of epoxy any day of the week!
for me the best type is the one needs no/less maintenance.
DIYers can pick up a piece of butcher block, often pre-finished for small jobs.Quartz is basically non-DIY. I couldn't prove it--with modern finishing materials, but I suspect butcher blocks would not as good over time or have as good resale value. A clear difference is that wood is softer in use. Quartz surfaces are unforgiving when placing glass or ceramic materials on them, and the feel is abruptly different between say, a kitchen with wood and stainless steel, to quartz and porcelain, or fireclay finishes.
I think porcelain slab would have been an interesting third type of product to add to this comparison video: better heat resistance than Quartz, more versatile (can be used on walls...)
Hmm, those are coming in larger and larger sizes now….
What material is in the "artificial veins"
Processing of manufactured stone is of upmost importance. Dust from these operations leads to Silicosis a fatal lung disease. Manufactured stone is at least as dangerous as Asbestos If you use these products wet grinding of the product in all aspects of manufacture is required.
I wish you had included something about drops. If I accidentally drop a plate or a glass on these counters, what would be the result? Does the item break? Does the impact damage the surface?
What do you think will happen if you drop a dish on a hard surface? Will it bounce?
Can you look into the epoxy countertops that I'm seeing everywhere on TH-cam? They look like they solve all problems.
There is one sure-fire way to avoid all those considerations, practical or trend-wise: Stainless steel the whole kitchen. I don't care if anyone says "looks like a workplace" because, well, it *is* a workplace. I don't know what you're doing in the kitchen but I'm busy, not taking in the decor.
Cooking in a kitchen? You're in a distinct minority these days.
Belinda,
"Homely" has a completely different meaning between British English and American English.
This led to much confusion while watching "Grand Designs" as the descriptor "homely" kept popping up while I thought the object was rather nice. In American English, the proper adjective is "homey", while "homely" means "unattractive".
How do we know if the materials are food safe, as these are imported products? For sustainability you can get FSC ratings, though the validity may still be suspect.
Quartz a.k.a Engineered Stone is banned or will soon be banned in many countries due to high rates of installation worker silicosis. It's near impossible to avoid the fine particle, high silicone content dust when cutting and final finishing on site. Additional safety measures will add cost, so of course cutting will be moved to countries where human life is less valuable. Quartz is not an ethically viable option.
I kind of wondered if it was even possible to make the process safe.
I just love the look of wood products so I am biased.
I'm surprised by anybody using butcher block. It isn't in style here but who knows in other places. By the way, I don't believe there's anything such as natural quartz, I believe it is natural quartzite. Minwax is an ok product but it will need sanding and revealing every so often and marina grade products would be better suited for a periodically wet/damp location. I also hope you sealed bother sides(beneath) and the edges as moisture will migrate through the material. I also think there is probably some Aluminum trihydrate in that quartz mix as well. 
After seeing this I can envision it coming back in style, especially for people who prioritize sustainability.
I got quartz recently for $39 a square foot and I am a huge fan! I’ll never use anything else in my house
At that price people might have to take out a second mortgage to satisfy their itch for a new countertop.
Trendy investment are appraiser's worst nightmare. "But I paid this much!"
Red oak is way to soft and porous, I can't believe. someone would think that was a good idea. I work wtih a professional wood mill cabinet maker.
Why would you change your counter top "regularly to add value of your home"?
Would you do it just before you try to sell your home?
I enjoy HGTV but it has taught people to treat their kitchens like their wardrobes. So many crappy flips are being done to make homes look like the California styles on HGTV and they use builder grade parts to get novice buyers to overpay for something that will need immediate repairs.
That quartz melts with hot pots and pans makes me wonder if it is any better than Formica.
Having grown up with Formica I could never bring myself to take something hot and place it directly on the counter no matter the material. It’s just an ingrained aversion.
Where I’m from quartz with install is $50pqf
Actual butcher blocks are end grain.
Wood is too high maintenance for me, I definitely prefer quartz.
I prefer the stainless steel options
A big misconception about wood finishes is that it needs to be the “hardest”. The poly you used will chip crack and look awful in no time. Refinishing will be difficult. I’ve been woodworking for over 50 years and used poly once.
Thanks for sharing your experience on this, I found it very helpful to know that. When it comes to wood it’s very easy to make a misstep that permanently alters it. One example is waxing wood floors. I’ve heard that if you do that even once, you’ve taken away most of your options for restoring it in the future.
@@aliannarodriguez1581 I can’t say I’ve heard of that but can’t say it’s not true. If wood has a finish on it like poly or varnish. Wax is just going to be on the surface. Much like a car.
As I have been for 50 years. I have found that a wipe on poly provides a durable natural looking thin coat and easily repaired. I do not like the plastic look of many poly finishes.
@@monteglover4133 I have a finishing technique that allows me to never have to use poly. Its tuff as nails and so much easier to apply that any other finish. If you get caught up in the “it must be hardest”. Your missing out on one of the joys of finishing.
I wonder about the safety of handling and machining the mineral products. Dust, lungs. And DIY experts are prone to disregarding safety advice. And mining/quarrying cause permanent damage to Planet Earth.
Wood has antibacterial qualities, I'm not sure about bamboo but I'd say probably. I would choose plantation-grown or grass. Bamboo is the only option here, but I'd look for other grasses too. Some of those can be grown in a season.
I wonder about cork.
The quartz is the clear winner in every dimension, why would want to cut down all those trees to produce a countertop that requires so much maintenance
It would be nice if they used the urban trees that came down in storms. Overall though it seems like this is a tiny amount of wood compared to what’s chopped down, for example, to make toilet paper.