Great video and help, thank you. I wish these companies were documenting their stuff so we can do some troubleshooting instead of making black boxes that you can't find documentation on. Thankfully we have people like you!
OMG just had a service tech come to our house two days ago and he did none of these tests. He was completely guessing at what could be wrong and basically told us we needed to buy a new refrigerator. The fridge was only making loud noises at certain times and then the water pad switch quit working and wouldn't dispense any water, even though the ice maker was working and water would flow to ice-maker but not through water pad. Water filter had been changed on time and water side still would not work, his answer was buy a new fridge or let him replace the compressor for 1600.00 when we were not having any cooling problems. Unbelievable! Thank you so much for this video!!!
Hey Ben! Thank you so much for this. Was able to determine my 7 year old KitchenAid KFIS29PBMSOO had a broken evaporator fan and the thermistor / sensors were shot, causing the coils to ice up. Had minimal cooling in main fridge but lower ice box was fine. Following your other video, I dismantled the interior (was able to do so without removing the top sections!) and thawed out the coils (what a mess!) and replaced the fan and sensors with new parts for about $100. Was motivated to try and self-repair when I saw a new fridge would run $3-4K. Hoping to get at least a few more years out of this beast as it has been a good fridge and everything (including the ice maker and water dispenser) still work. Thanks again. You’re a champ. Great videos - keep up the good work.
I am having same issue for almost same kind French door model, can you please advice all good now - working as expected or what is your refrigerator status? Please share...
I have the same fridge - KFIS29PBMS000. I ran all the tests in the video and they all passed. I have taken the refrigerator and freezer apart. This unit has two evaporators; one for the freezer and one for the fridge. Neither one is frozen over and both fans are running. The refrigerator gets to about 42 degrees and the freezer is only getting up to 22 degrees - both too low. . Coils are clean. Compressor is running. Replaced refrigerator and freezer thermistors just in case. Trying 8 hour defrost mode now. Could it be low on refrigerant? Is there anything else to check? The new refrigerators are crap and I don't want to spend $3000 every 3-5 years on a new fridge. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.
I have this same fridge and matching kitchenaid appliances. All within 2 years had some type of failure ranging from minor to major. 2 people in the house. Clean light use. Refrigerator, microwave, dishwasher, oven... all absolute disappointing junk. Im shocked how bad the quality of appliances has gotten. My parents bought new stuff in 1980. Those same units still in good operation today.
No complaints about this video, it has been a life and money saver for me...repair guys replaced my ice maker motor on an assumption and still didn't work, I kept the old one and now I think I have 2 working ones lol. I bought all Kitchenaid 9 years ago, dishwasher was replace after 5 years, frig cost 1000+ in repairs, and now my Microwave/Confection has be replaced. So much to say about Kitchenaid but do not need any legal consequences, just don't buy it.
I’m a lab scientist and work on maintaining and repairing expensive lab equipment- so I figured how hard can this be for a 63 yo gal. Did my research on line, ordered the part and set aside a morning for the job. I used your U tube video to help through the process, but reading the comments 1st is helpful. One explains how you can skip a few steps, such as removing the doors and interior drawer frame, if you angle the evaporator cover by about 30 degrees to get it from behind the drawer frame. Took some force and bravery but it came out and went back in ok. Got the fan in, made sure it worked and put everything back together. It is colder than ever and isn’t icing up any more. Only 1 problem - the under shelf lighting comes on and flashes at a regular interval. I know the shelves get their power from the hangers at the back and won’t work at all if that connection is bad, but mine come on and flash, not flickering - flashing at regular interval. Maybe I altered a setting while in maintenance, but don’t know which one or why there would be a flashing light setting at about 5 second intervals for the under shelf lighting?! Anyone have an ideas? Happy with the outcome anyway, my food is staying cold.
Is intermittent flashing lights means that either a wire has not been securely plugged back in or your freezer LED board is starting to go bad. It's a very common occurrence but it doesn't actually relate to the fan issue it's a new problem all together
@@cheryllaster1365 for the refrigerator, yes. But there's a situation with these where if the freezer light driver, in the freezer, is going bad it tends to affect the refrigerator cabinet instead. You'd want to verify incoming voltage to the refrigerator board to confirm that you are getting insufficient voltage before replacing one or the other.
Thanks Ben for all your training videos. My 2016 Kitchen Aid KRFF507ESS01 refrigerator box evaporator still ices up every 1.5 months. I have performed the Tech repair pointer twice in that a new fan , thermistor and thermostat were installed according to instructions. Cleaned all component's including the drain tube. Being sure the new thermistor was zip tied firmly to the coil as instructed. It works for a little over a month and then begins to ice up again. Adjusting the temp from 37 to 41 degrees does not help in dissipating the ice. Diagnostics shows all is 01 passing. Not sure if test #7 refers to the freezer or the fresh food section but set to the 8 hour mode. The test #6 is laughable where there is no defrost heater in the bad design of this brand. Am I missing something here visually when the fridge is disassembled? Any suggestion would be greatly appreciated when I take this expensive fridge apart for the fourth time. By the the way Kitchen Aid customer service is "0" help. They know they have an engineering problem and wont face up to it. A simple heater modification kit would be all they need to send. Frustrating to say the least. Thanks Ben for your videos.
My 2018 KitchenAid KRSC503ESS01 have the same problem with you. I tested #6, it is always 01(Bi-metal closed), which means the defrost heater should be running. But actually it is not running. I tried to test if the diagnostic code could switch to 02 (which means open) after I put the thermostat to hot water. Unfortunately, it doesn't change.
@@primbo1212 Hi Bo Li, I don't think there is any defrost bi-metal heat/defrost wire in the fresh food section evaporator located at the base and behind the cooling tower. This is is the problem. The fridge is incapable of balancing itself. The engineers ( and I use the term lightly ) who designed these fridges are Jr's at their chosen occupation. Yes the government gives these manufacturers strict guide lines and directives for "greener" appliances but we went to to the darn moon in 19 freakin 69 and we still cant get a $3000.00 appliance to last more than five years. Whirlpool / Kitchen Aid have the audacity to put "Made In The USA" stickers inside of my fridge. Loser company's who purposely design planned obsolescence into their product should be ashamed to mention made in the USA.
@@theresagustafson7808 Hi Theresa, not so much. A repair tech said a minimum of 1200 dollars to repair with no promise it will last giving the replacement parts are identical. Getting parts would be 6 weeks minimum. My wife bought a ge profile with good reviews. I kept the kitchen aid so I can experiment on my own by changing out the capacitors on the control board and making my own heat wire for the evaporation coil in the fridge section. We live in a world of planned obsolescence.
So I don’t know if this will help. I had a similar problem. All my drawers were freezing and ice for,ing on back wall of the bottom part of the refrigerator. The problem according to my repair guy was an improperly placed thermostat sensor? So it was only sensoring one side of the refrigerator and not keeping the heater on long enough to defrost everything. And then it would build up freeze blocking the drain tube at the back and just keeping getting worse. What he did was with added another sensor or split the one that was there. When he was done it sort of looked like a ‘Y” and he put one end in one side and one on the other. Then defrosted the ice build up and cleared the drain port behind the drawers and never. Had the problem since. He said it’s a defect and this is how he’d been fixing it. It seems like he made the part, or split the sensor wires. Not sure. Just thought I’d mention it.
Hi Ben, thanks for this very helpful video. If you have a moment, I wonder if you could answer a question. I have the Kitchenaid KRMF706ESS01. Out of the blue yesterday, I saw and heard a door ajar light/alarm (with all doors shut). That resulted in the water/ice-maker not working. I unplugged the fridge, and after plugging back in the door ajar light was off but the interior lights were now out and the water/ice-maker still not working. Doing the diagnostics shown in this video proved that both refrigerator door sensors may not be good (they both show code 01 when doors are closed or open). But weirdly, tests 01 and 02 for freezer thermistor and rc thermistor don't even register a test code at all (just goes blank after showing the test number). Same goes for codes 46 and 56 for the water dispenser and ice dispenser tests. No codes appear, just goes blank. ... Any idea if those two tests are related to my interior light and water/ice maker problems? Or do you think it's possible that both door sensors could have failed at the same time? We had two VERY short power outages during a rainstorm the night before and the fridge is not plugged into a GFI outlet. Each outage happened for less than two seconds and no electrical appliances or clocks went out. Also those two short outages happened at least 12 hours before these issues happened. Any thoughts?
Hey Jim, have you figured out the problem? We had the same fridge and similar problems: it started with the door alarm, then lights went out, but we tried replugging back in, the lights came back flickering for a bit then went out again, but the cooling stopped working all together. After we replugged back in again, the cooling started working again, but not the lights. It's so frustrating.
@@sueyou2992 Much to my chagrin, I needed a service appointment. About $350 and a month later it was determined that the cable/harness for the meat/cheese drawer had failed (no idea why) and needed to be replaced. I gotta say, I wasn't happy with how KitchenAid handled everything. You'd think that after spending $3500 on a fridge that it would last longer than three years without needing service... And we're empty nesters. No kids abusing the product. It just failed. ... I've been a longtime owner of GE products that always worked great. This is my first KitchneAid product and probably my last.
Great video. My KA refrigerator looks identical, but my codes do not exceed 48, and there is no cover where the code paper work usually is. Is it possible to find the codes based on the model/serial number?
This video is fantastic. Thanks for posting. My compressor stopped running about 2 days ago. When I go thru diagnostic steps 1-3 I get an 01. When I go to step 4 and force an 01 the compressor and fan work like normal. What should I be looking for that's starting them from running when I'm out of diagnostic mode? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Hi Ben, this is a great video, so thank you very much. I am having a problem finding the codes for my fridge. The codes only go up to 43, and I was hoping my code was going to be 56 or 59 as I am having ice dispensing problems. I checked the top of my fridge as shown in your video but the sheet of codes was not there. Do you know how I can get my hands on these codes by using my model and serial number? Thanks,
Great video to at least get a clue on this refrigerator. Had a full frost freeze up, opened the panel covering the coils and of course it's frozen. Took out the two bottom screws but couldn't figure out how to get the bottom panel out completely. pulled the clipped sides but the top didn't come out. tried to remove the top, one screw, a pull but won't clear the top light and air ducting and didn't want to force it. Defrosted it, put it in 8 hr mode and waiting for the morning. Was in ADR mode(?) but changed to 8 hr mode and closed it up till am as said. Is it OK to leave in 8 Hr mode? Also, is ADR Automatic Defrost or ? Thanks again for all the good and only information I could find, you tube or other. David
Hello, i have a question, in the code 6 it show me 3 not 1 neither 2, and the code 7 doesn't show, I think that can be bimetal with troubles or the sensors. I appreciate if you can confirm that, thanks for this video was very useful.
So on test 6 I got a 2 bi metal open is that a pass or fail for the heater? Manual doesn't say what's pass or fail on test 6 having issues with fridge building Ice havnt noticed freezer.
Hey Ben! Thanks for the video- great information! I don't recall the repair tech running through any of these tests but I'm hopeful his diagnoses of a bad compressor was correct without it.
My diagnostic codes only go to 48. Any thoughts on where to find the codes for that setup? Ice maker is on the door and the panel is identical to the one in your video. Thanks!
Hi is there a spacial way for the force defrost to work. I choose Long defrost, but when I exit service mode it does not start defrosting. I read somewhere something with the door switches has to be done. Thanks Ben as always you are great
So I have a kitchenAid 5 door refrigerator. I purchased this used. I had it plugged in for about 2 weeks. All seemed good. I put it into use. Found ice maker not working. It cooled but was always a few degrees higher than set temp. After about 6 weeks it would not cool. I watched your video. Following that I replaced evaporator fan Thermistor and thermostat. As well as fan in ice maker. When installing i found evaporator frozen. After that the ice maker would make about 3 cubes and melt. Held temp better. Fast forward 8 weeks. Evaporator is frozen again. And unit is not able to hold temp. Found evaporator frozen again. I am a hvac technician. However I am not very knowledgeable in refrigeration. Could you possibly guide me in the right direction from here. Thank you. Mark.
Hi Ben, very helpful video. I live in Maryland and have a KitchenAid french door refrigerator freezer model number - KFIS29PBMS000. I ran all the tests in your video and they all passed. I have taken the refrigerator and freezer apart. This unit has two evaporators; one for the freezer and one for the fridge. Neither one is frozen over and both fans are running. The refrigerator gets to about 42 degrees and the freezer is only getting up to 22 degrees. Coils are clean. Compressor is running. Replaced refrigerator and freezer thermistors just in case. Trying 8 hour defrost mode now. Could it be low on refrigerant? Is there anything else to check? The new refrigerators are crap and I don't want to spend $3000 every 3-5 years on a new fridge. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.
I have a KitchenAid KRMF706ESS01 - while the diagnostics seem very robust and this video is very helpful, the refrigerator itself has to be the worst appliance that I ever owned. The newest problem is that the freezer won't go below 20 degrees and the refrigerator section won't go below 40 degrees. I don't see any ice build up in the back as a lot of people have reported. When I run service test 6 Defrost Heater/Bi-metal, it displays 03 which is not described in the tech reference. (01=bi-metal closed 02=bi-metal open) what does 03 mean? Does this point to a potential problem? All of the other diagnostics check out ok. Any input from anyone would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
Hello Ben I have this exact fridge and liked your video. My control board was bad and I just replaced it. How do I program it to put the fridge back in use? Thank you!
Hi Ben, very helpful video. We have a KSSC42QTS02 side by side that is from 2008. I can run diagnostics but the codes are different than the above. How do I find out what the codes mean? I can't find any manuals online describing the diagnostics code. Help pls! Problem is - Fridge/freezer not cooling. thanks so much
Thank you for this info. You've saved us a service call fee! I am not handy by any stretch of the imagination but I still try. And with your help I was successful. Salute good Sir!
Great video! I followed every step, but couldn't figure it out So I had a tech here today to diagnose my KitchenAid KRMF706ESS00, and he said compressor is working but the fridge isn't cooling so it's likely the sealed system, and usually the leak is in the evaporator coil. Does that sound right, and could it be anything else? Thanks very much!
Had a fridge in storage it’s a kitchen aid French door. Does it have to be level for fridge to blow air? The freezer working great. Stays manual let plug in for 24 hours hoping will work soon. Right now no air coming in top. The bottom is starting to cool
Hi Ben ...thanks for the video. I have question and was wondering if u would be kind enough to answer. I have a kitchenaid krfc604fss00 with icemaker in the door. Can u tell me or direct me to info on how to remove it?
@Bens Appliance, If my fridge is freezing up constantly, should I use step#38, the forced defrost mode? Already changed the mode step #7 to basic see if that does anything.
Very helpful Video Ben: Unfortunately I have tried several of the tests you outlined in the video and still my evaporator will ice up after running for about a week and them the refrigerator section will start to climb in temp from about 35° to 45° and then hold. I assume this is cause from the lack of air flow over the Evap. The freezer section is working properly. When I took this apart the 1st time , I found the Evap Fan housing had been worked on before and the Styrofoam housing was broken. I replaced this housing including the fan and the fan is working OK. Test #1 & #2 show the thermistors to be within value and I have put the #7 test into 02 (Defrost in Basic mode) Any ideas what to look at next? Thanks for any input.
Great video and well done. I have a Kitchenaid side by side with panel ice and water dispenser. The issue I have is that the icemaker produces ice, the door opens for the ice maker but the auger motor doesn't dispense the ice. I've replaced the ice auger motor and it still doesn't dispense ice. Any ideas on what to do next?
Anyone found fix for this? I’m having same problem? No ice dispensing, water dispensing works fine? I also replaced ice auger motor and it did not fix anything.
There was a person who was replacing the door actuator switch for the ice maker as a fix but I haven't seen if this fixed the problem. I hear the ice maker flap open but the auger doesn't work.
I have issues with my icemaker not producing ice. Sometimes when I unplug it and plug it in it starts producing again. I just checked all of the error codes and everything seems fine. I also get repeat around the edges of the ice opening in the door. Any ideas on what I can try? Thanks for the helpful video!
Hello Ben. I have a Whirlpool Gold side-by-side gsf26c4exs03. It suddenly stopped cooling or freezing today. There's power and the fans are still pushing air out on both sides, but it's warm. Your procedure worked on mine to access diagnostics from the front panel. I have 02 open which is defrost. 06 bi-metal is closed. (passed). 16,17,24 are also open and 25=00. Do you think the defrost timer is bad? I am not sure how to manually turn that off to check. Thanks.
That doesn't have a defrost timer. It has a control board. I'd look at the compressor/relay and see if the compressor is vibrating and running, or if its not running well at all. Also check condenser coils underneath for impacted dirt.
Hi Ben. When I enter diagnostic mode, the first 2 tests (01 & 02) do not flash a code. No 01, 02 or 03 -- the display just goes blank. Other diagnostic tests seem to work fine. Any ideas?? My symptom is that the ice and water dispenser as well as all the interior LEDs have quit working at the same time.
Hi Ben I've noticed recently that my fridge is having power issues, it only happens once or twice a month (lights, water or ice dispenser wont work and it may not be cooling), if you leave it alone for a while or restart the fridge it will continue to work as normal, I suspect it could be the power supply or the main board but I'll like to order the part I need and I was wondering if there a diagnostic I can run to figure it out what is the right one I need.
I have the 5 drawer model. 5 years old. Over a year ago I lost one of the small drawers panel board controls. Then the freezer stopped cooling. I was able to get away with using the fridge part for another year while the water dispense glitches (still waiting for a tech to come -too busy & they said probably replace). It’s been flashing “PF” (power failure) even though there’s power to the fridge and it’s running. No breakers flipped. Now the fridge and freezer have stopped cooling. Could it just be the mother board? I’m having a hard time throwing out a 6,000+ fridge without any servicing.
What should the temperature be in the icemaker? The freezer is 5 below and the refrigerator section is 34°. The icemaker checks in at 10° but I get some melting when the icemaker does work but it is not working consistently.
Great video, Ben. I have a KitchenAid KRMF706ESS 5 door unit and last night the ice/water dispenser was starting and then stopping and starting and then stopping and not running long enough to dispense any ice. I set my glass down on the counter it started dispensing without even touching the paddle to depress it and activate the switch. It did this a couple of times and got me worried so I locked it out but even when locked out I can put a glass under and as soon as I depress the lever a bit the display lights up and beeps showing me the lock so it seems like the paddle switch is working just fine but then it just stops and starts off and on and again does it after I have let go of the paddle. Would the correct test be the water dispenser test #46 and if so what does that tell me is bad if anything? Any thoughts on what this might be? Thanks
So... what does it mean when a code doesn't appear for a test. Several of my tests show a blank set of digits? Otherwise, I love this video. Is there any place to get a 'decision tree' for what the diagnostics mean? I think I may need a new control board of some type... But which one and how do I find out?
What a great video. I think I have a power board issue. The lights will go out and a few days later, the entire unit shuts down. When I unplug it and then plug it back in, It flashes PO and will begin to work again after I hit "confirm". It runs ok for about 3-5 days and the issue starts over. Doesn't this sound like a power board issue?
Yes, sounds like its either a board failure, or the wires are shorting/disconnecting intermittently. I'd try to take it apart and inspect it all before you go all-in for the board buy.
Usually the temperature of the chef's pantry or 4th drawer is controlled by the panel that's either on top of the pantry or on top of the 4th door. The wire harness that goes into each UI does have a tendency to break, so I'd check the physical wire connection for damage or defect.
On my kitchenaid refrigerator I hooked up an Reverse Osmosis water filter system to it and when I installed the included water filter in the upper right corner of the fridge the water comes out very slow, so I took out the filter that was included and the flow of water was much improved but now the replace water filter light comes on and I don’t know how to turn it off, opening and closing the water filter door on the upper right will not reset it like it would if I were putting in a fresh refrigerator filter, I was told I could run my own RO system through the fridge without the need to use the one the fridge came with, so is there a way to turn off the ‘’replace filter light’’ while using my RO system ?
I have the same model in this video. My pad for testing only goes up to test 48 and can't get to test 58. My ice maker quit working. Just a week ago. water works. Any clue before I start replacing parts. Thank you Great video.
Is there a way to manually send water to various parts of the fridge (i.e. water dispenser, ice makers)? My Whirlpool Fridge (WRV986FDEM01) won't dispense water/ice after our power flickered out, and it's making a mechanical clicking/clunking noise intermittently (10 counts at a time). We had a tech come out a few weeks ago, and he replaced the valve/motor that sends water to the freezer ice maker, since he said that was the only place he couldn't get water to. I really can't afford to have a $280 part replaced every time a storm comes through. Any advice/tips? Thanks!
Hi My KitchenAid goes up to step 48 only. At step 44, what should it be? There are 2 digits showing. At 45, mine is at 02=water fill is off, how do I fix that? At 47, mine is 02=open, what does that mean?
Hey Ben! I have the same refrigerator you where talking about. Every thing is working fine except it keeps flashing the PO letters. I have ran the test, pushed the measure fill button and unpluged the unit with no success. Is there anything else I can try to reset unit?
Hello, I own a KSC24C8EYY02. Few days ago, we had a power outage. Since then, my freezer won’t keep my foods frozen. I can feel the cold air but ice cream won’t stay frozen. What do you recommend that I should do first? What should I check?
I JUST had someone call me today about a similar issue - their thought was that the power/control boards got damaged and they went out and bought a new set to fix it. I would due the standard due diligence though - clean black coils from behind/underneath fridge, check for excessive ice buildup in freezer, and ensure all fans run properly, before going to that super expensive step, though.
@@bensappliancesandjunk Thank you so much for your response. I have a question about the #7 defrost mode and the #38 Forced defrost. If I were to use the #7 option, do I leave it at 02 for it to stay in the basic 8 hour mode? it says to switch back to ADC on before exiting the Service diagnostic mode. for #38 Forced Defrost, what is the difference between the short defrost and the long defrost? Will it help with my situation? Maybe to thaw out the coils in the freezer instead of removing everything and using a blow dry?
@@GOMD77 Leave it at 02 to stay at 8-hr basic defrost. Whirlpool tells techs to leave it on 02 as it'll unthaw the fridge better over time. #38 - I want to say that its the difference between a 5min and 15min defrost time. It would help thaw the coils out a bit better before having to use a steamer/fan or whatever.
My 2016 Kitchenaid KRMF706ESS01 doesn't get up to code 56 (stops at 48). Is there a way to upgrade the software, or does the unit simply not have the ability to run such tests? The ice maker shutoff arm is stuck in the up position (indicating ice storage bin full), so the unit won't make ice, and I don't see a Reset or Test button anywhere - just an On/Off switch for the ice maker, which is On. I've tried unplugging the unit, waiting a minute, and plugging it back in to see if that would reset it, but no luck.
Hey Ben, I have this same model and the LED lights were flickering then the entire thing lost all power an hour later. What do you suspect this could be?
Ben. Any idea why when I calibrate my water dispenser for one cup that when I go to dispense one cup it comes out as 1/4 cup range? Very odd. We live on well water. Maybe pressure in house water line isn’t strong enough? New filters coming soon in mail.
Hey Ben, excellent video. We have a model WRF767SDHZ double door Whirlpool with bottom freezer. Our ice maker does fine making ice it does NOT, however, dump ice into the door dispenser anymore. Because of this video we ran the diagnostic code 57 to dump any ice then ran #56. It gave E5. We are now defrosting to see if that will clear the whatever might be the issue. If we get another E5 after the defrost what would be your best suggestion? Thanks in advance.
On No. 38, I'd liek to turn on the Long Defrost. How do you turn it on once you've gotten to "Lo" blinking? Seems there isn't a way to turn it on. In the video, Ben said "If you use this it will defrost the unit in the lower cabinet." Thanks!
Great video, Ben! Thank you so much for providing this. I ran the full set of diagnostics on my KitchenAid (KFIV29PCMS03) and everything passed. This is strange, though, as the ice maker is not making ice. I've tried the regular and Max Ice mode, but neither worked. I am stumped by something else that may be related: The water dispenser didn't work, but when I reset the filter (dropped the door, removed and replaced the filter, then clicked the door closed, the water dispenser worked! Then I did it again and the water dispenser didn't work. This seems to be some sort of way to take the water dispense out of commission. And when the water dispenser DIDN'T work, the ice maker DID. Very strange. Do you think there is some sort of connection or interdependency with this behavior that is keeping my ice maker from working, when the water dispenser will work? I know the dual water valve feeds both the ice maker and water filter/dispenser lines. Could there be an issue with that valve? Thanks in advance for any advise or additional troubleshooting you can provide. And keep the videos coming!
Update/Resolution: After replacing the dual water valve the problem was fixed. Initially, when I buttoned everything up it worked. After 24 hours the water dispenser quit working, with a zero "0" code when the paddle was depressed. I pulled the fridge power for 60 seconds and plugged it back in and all is functioning well. Apparently this resets the main circuit board, even though the power was disconnected during the entire replacement process. It's been working well for several weeks now.
Another common issue on these is the wires going from the ice maker in the door to the main part of the fridge. They are in a wear area so the wires literally get rubbed against metal every time you open or close the freezer door. Eventually they get cut or short out. I’ve had to add lengths of wire twice in 2 years to ours because they have been worn down so badly. Kitchenaid knows of the issue and doesn’t care. They run along the bottom left corner, in the gap you see when the door is open. I think there’s a grey plastic cover over them. Pop it off and I bet you find a problem or one that is coming soon.
Hey thanks for doing this. I had a question about test 3 (fan and motor test). The graphic on your vid shows what's tested for 1 and 2. However for 3 and 4 I am getting noise. What part is being tested in 3 and 4? When I put it on 3 it displays 13. The others show 01, 02, and 04.
Service Test - 3: Evaporator Fan and Air Baffle Motors ■ Control the RC and FC evaporator fan motors by depressing SW3 (01 = both fan motors off. 02 = FC fan on). ■ Depress SW3 once to advance. Service Test 3 will flash quickly and advance to tests 13/23 very quickly. The result is RC fan on, pantry air damper on. Pantry air damper will open and close automatically (13 = damper open, 23 = damper closed). Verify airflow inside pantry on lefthand side when damper is open (13 displayed). Airflow in pantry will cease when “23” is displayed. ■ Depress SW3 to advance to last step (04 = both RC and FC fans on).
On service test 3 on code 13=damper open, air flow is verified, however 912 is not displayed? All other cooling tests are good with the exception of the ice box motor not turning on and off.
My kitchenaid fridge has episodes where is seems like it shuts off since interior lights go out and water/ ice dispenser isnt working but control panel still lights and work. The wine/ cheese and deli UI doesnt have light though. Any idea where i should start looking since there are 3 motherboards?
GREAT video, thank you. If you get a chance can you see why a 2022 model doesn't have the same test function numbers. Mine stops at 48 then to 77 and resume to normal. Trying to figure out why my Ice Maker quit again, last time it was the wires at the bottom of the door (very poor design? broke from opening and closing, imagine that.
I have a KRFC704FPS00 and it keeps freezing up. I can't find a evaporator fan kit for this unit. Any help would be appreciated. I'm guessing that's the issue based on watching some of your videos.
So how do you know something is wrong and what do you do if it's wrong, on each of those? And on #4, what if you go into that mode? Will it come out on its own?
Ran the diagnostics. Think we have a board issue. Service test 1, 2, 37 and 39 does not display anything. In all cases, it says the board will test.... Is this referring to the main control board?
Hi - I'm going through the codes and got to Code 6 and am getting 03 as my code.... can you clarify what that means? It's not in your vid or the manual. Thanks
My Model is KRSC703HPS01: Having trouble with Fridg evaporator/heater frosting up. Do you have more information on Test 6 Defrost heater/Bi-metal, I am getting a code 03? But, no code 3 is listed on my spec sheet. Test 7 FC Defrost mode has a code 03=pass. So, not sure if the Diags Firmware could be out of alignment witht he docs.
Ben, Thank you so much for your video I was shocked where the paper was at lol. Back of my pantry forms a thick Ice I did the all the tests through the sheet ..I do not understand #64. Would you please help me...when the refrigerator is in test mode those lights in pantry is off and after I turn off the mode it comes on. However is the 2nd time I have ice in back area of that pantry that I can not push the pantry bin all the way back. Also the side lights so not come on. Help me
When my KitchenAid freezer side goes in defrost mode it seems to stay off too long . Temp rises above 20 degrees Ice Cream , pop sickles etc. become soft. ANY WAY TO CHANGE SETTINGS for shorter defrost time OR some other settings so freezer doesn't warm up as much? THANKS..
Great video and help, thank you.
I wish these companies were documenting their stuff so we can do some troubleshooting instead of making black boxes that you can't find documentation on.
Thankfully we have people like you!
Few TH-cam videos are so thorough, well spoken and easy to follow. On to the tests to find out (I hope) why no ice.
Thanks
OMG the diagnostic instructions are hidden in the top door hinge cover. This is the most useful video I’ve found. Thank you.
Man iam a tech in nc,i dont know as much as you do,you know what you are doing i liked your video so much,keep on,thx
OMG just had a service tech come to our house two days ago and he did none of these tests. He was completely guessing at what could be wrong and basically told us we needed to buy a new refrigerator. The fridge was only making loud noises at certain times and then the water pad switch quit working and wouldn't dispense any water, even though the ice maker was working and water would flow to ice-maker but not through water pad. Water filter had been changed on time and water side still would not work, his answer was buy a new fridge or let him replace the compressor for 1600.00 when we were not having any cooling problems. Unbelievable! Thank you so much for this video!!!
So how did u fix it
I really appreciate the time you take to make these remarkably well done videos that are easy to follow. You are a true tradesman and helpful human!
Hey Ben!
Thank you so much for this. Was able to determine my 7 year old KitchenAid KFIS29PBMSOO had a broken evaporator fan and the thermistor / sensors were shot, causing the coils to ice up.
Had minimal cooling in main fridge but lower ice box was fine. Following your other video, I dismantled the interior (was able to do so without removing the top sections!) and thawed out the coils (what a mess!) and replaced the fan and sensors with new parts for about $100.
Was motivated to try and self-repair when I saw a new fridge would run $3-4K.
Hoping to get at least a few more years out of this beast as it has been a good fridge and everything (including the ice maker and water dispenser) still work.
Thanks again. You’re a champ. Great videos - keep up the good work.
I am having same issue for almost same kind French door model, can you please advice all good now - working as expected or what is your refrigerator status? Please share...
I have the same fridge - KFIS29PBMS000. I ran all the tests in the video and they all passed. I have taken the refrigerator and freezer apart. This unit has two evaporators; one for the freezer and one for the fridge. Neither one is frozen over and both fans are running. The refrigerator gets to about 42 degrees and the freezer is only getting up to 22 degrees - both too low. . Coils are clean. Compressor is running. Replaced refrigerator and freezer thermistors just in case. Trying 8 hour defrost mode now. Could it be low on refrigerant? Is there anything else to check? The new refrigerators are crap and I don't want to spend $3000 every 3-5 years on a new fridge. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.
I have this same fridge and matching kitchenaid appliances. All within 2 years had some type of failure ranging from minor to major. 2 people in the house. Clean light use. Refrigerator, microwave, dishwasher, oven... all absolute disappointing junk. Im shocked how bad the quality of appliances has gotten. My parents bought new stuff in 1980. Those same units still in good operation today.
I am shocked as well. they want 3k + and its falling apart just after 6 months. completely outrageous
@titoqwentezproductionz3406 we shouldn't be too surprised. I'm learn wolf or sub zero appliances are no better and certainly cost more
@@whitenas yep its a real shame
Thank you Ben for your excellent video. Your explanations were well paced.
I can not thank you enough for this video. You just saved me $170. Thank you so much again.
Really? I just put this video out. I am so happy to hear it helped you!
@@bensappliancesandjunk i know. I called Abt to come and look at my fridge and they said it was $170 fee. So your video saved me that money.
No complaints about this video, it has been a life and money saver for me...repair guys replaced my ice maker motor on an assumption and still didn't work, I kept the old one and now I think I have 2 working ones lol. I bought all Kitchenaid 9 years ago, dishwasher was replace after 5 years, frig cost 1000+ in repairs, and now my Microwave/Confection has be replaced. So much to say about Kitchenaid but do not need any legal consequences, just don't buy it.
Appreciate the Great info. Pls consider adding chapter dividers for each code - would make it even more useful. 😉
I’m a lab scientist and work on maintaining and repairing expensive lab equipment- so I figured how hard can this be for a 63 yo gal. Did my research on line, ordered the part and set aside a morning for the job. I used your U tube video to help through the process, but reading the comments 1st is helpful. One explains how you can skip a few steps, such as removing the doors and interior drawer frame, if you angle the evaporator cover by about 30 degrees to get it from behind the drawer frame. Took some force and bravery but it came out and went back in ok. Got the fan in, made sure it worked and put everything back together. It is colder than ever and isn’t icing up any more. Only 1 problem - the under shelf lighting comes on and flashes at a regular interval. I know the shelves get their power from the hangers at the back and won’t work at all if that connection is bad, but mine come on and flash, not flickering - flashing at regular interval. Maybe I altered a setting while in maintenance, but don’t know which one or why there would be a flashing light setting at about 5 second intervals for the under shelf lighting?! Anyone have an ideas? Happy with the outcome anyway, my food is staying cold.
Is intermittent flashing lights means that either a wire has not been securely plugged back in or your freezer LED board is starting to go bad. It's a very common occurrence but it doesn't actually relate to the fan issue it's a new problem all together
@@bensappliancesandjunk I figure I caused the problem. Are the wires for it under the water filter cover? I thought I’d check on them next.
@@cheryllaster1365 for the refrigerator, yes. But there's a situation with these where if the freezer light driver, in the freezer, is going bad it tends to affect the refrigerator cabinet instead. You'd want to verify incoming voltage to the refrigerator board to confirm that you are getting insufficient voltage before replacing one or the other.
Thanks Ben for all your training videos. My 2016 Kitchen Aid KRFF507ESS01 refrigerator box evaporator still ices up every 1.5 months. I have performed the Tech repair pointer twice in that a new fan , thermistor and thermostat were installed according to instructions. Cleaned all component's including the drain tube. Being sure the new thermistor was zip tied firmly to the coil as instructed. It works for a little over a month and then begins to ice up again. Adjusting the temp from 37 to 41 degrees does not help in dissipating the ice. Diagnostics shows all is 01 passing. Not sure if test #7 refers to the freezer or the fresh food section but set to the 8 hour mode. The test #6 is laughable where there is no defrost heater in the bad design of this brand. Am I missing something here visually when the fridge is disassembled? Any suggestion would be greatly appreciated when I take this expensive fridge apart for the fourth time. By the the way Kitchen Aid customer service is "0" help. They know they have an engineering problem and wont face up to it. A simple heater modification kit would be all they need to send. Frustrating to say the least. Thanks Ben for your videos.
My 2018 KitchenAid KRSC503ESS01 have the same problem with you. I tested #6, it is always 01(Bi-metal closed), which means the defrost heater should be running. But actually it is not running. I tried to test if the diagnostic code could switch to 02 (which means open) after I put the thermostat to hot water. Unfortunately, it doesn't change.
@@primbo1212 Hi Bo Li, I don't think there is any defrost bi-metal heat/defrost wire in the fresh food section evaporator located at the base and behind the cooling tower. This is is the problem. The fridge is incapable of balancing itself. The engineers ( and I use the term lightly ) who designed these fridges are Jr's at their chosen occupation. Yes the government gives these manufacturers strict guide lines and directives for "greener" appliances but we went to to the darn moon in 19 freakin 69 and we still cant get a $3000.00 appliance to last more than five years. Whirlpool / Kitchen Aid have the audacity to put "Made In The USA" stickers inside of my fridge. Loser company's who purposely design planned obsolescence into their product should be ashamed to mention made in the USA.
I'm having the same issue. Did you happen to figure it out?
@@theresagustafson7808 Hi Theresa, not so much. A repair tech said a minimum of 1200 dollars to repair with no promise it will last giving the replacement parts are identical. Getting parts would be 6 weeks minimum. My wife bought a ge profile with good reviews. I kept the kitchen aid so I can experiment on my own by changing out the capacitors on the control board and making my own heat wire for the evaporation coil in the fridge section. We live in a world of planned obsolescence.
So I don’t know if this will help. I had a similar problem. All my drawers were freezing and ice for,ing on back wall of the bottom part of the refrigerator. The problem according to my repair guy was an improperly placed thermostat sensor? So it was only sensoring one side of the refrigerator and not keeping the heater on long enough to defrost everything. And then it would build up freeze blocking the drain tube at the back and just keeping getting worse. What he did was with added another sensor or split the one that was there. When he was done it sort of looked like a ‘Y” and he put one end in one side and one on the other. Then defrosted the ice build up and cleared the drain port behind the drawers and never. Had the problem since. He said it’s a defect and this is how he’d been fixing it. It seems like he made the part, or split the sensor wires. Not sure. Just thought I’d mention it.
For code 6 is it testing the bimetal in the freezer evaporator or the thermistor on the refrigerator section?
Hi Ben, thanks for this very helpful video. If you have a moment, I wonder if you could answer a question. I have the Kitchenaid KRMF706ESS01. Out of the blue yesterday, I saw and heard a door ajar light/alarm (with all doors shut). That resulted in the water/ice-maker not working. I unplugged the fridge, and after plugging back in the door ajar light was off but the interior lights were now out and the water/ice-maker still not working. Doing the diagnostics shown in this video proved that both refrigerator door sensors may not be good (they both show code 01 when doors are closed or open). But weirdly, tests 01 and 02 for freezer thermistor and rc thermistor don't even register a test code at all (just goes blank after showing the test number). Same goes for codes 46 and 56 for the water dispenser and ice dispenser tests. No codes appear, just goes blank. ... Any idea if those two tests are related to my interior light and water/ice maker problems? Or do you think it's possible that both door sensors could have failed at the same time? We had two VERY short power outages during a rainstorm the night before and the fridge is not plugged into a GFI outlet. Each outage happened for less than two seconds and no electrical appliances or clocks went out. Also those two short outages happened at least 12 hours before these issues happened. Any thoughts?
Hey Jim, have you figured out the problem? We had the same fridge and similar problems: it started with the door alarm, then lights went out, but we tried replugging back in, the lights came back flickering for a bit then went out again, but the cooling stopped working all together. After we replugged back in again, the cooling started working again, but not the lights. It's so frustrating.
@@sueyou2992 Much to my chagrin, I needed a service appointment. About $350 and a month later it was determined that the cable/harness for the meat/cheese drawer had failed (no idea why) and needed to be replaced. I gotta say, I wasn't happy with how KitchenAid handled everything. You'd think that after spending $3500 on a fridge that it would last longer than three years without needing service... And we're empty nesters. No kids abusing the product. It just failed. ... I've been a longtime owner of GE products that always worked great. This is my first KitchneAid product and probably my last.
Great video. My KA refrigerator looks identical, but my codes do not exceed 48, and there is no cover where the code paper work usually is. Is it possible to find the codes based on the model/serial number?
Ben you’re amazing I love your info and the care you give people. Please keep ip the good work and helping out the little guys.
Is the defrost heater/bi-metal supposed to be open or closed? Does it affect the compressor from turning on?
Would also like to know please.
This video is fantastic. Thanks for posting. My compressor stopped running about 2 days ago. When I go thru diagnostic steps 1-3 I get an 01. When I go to step 4 and force an 01 the compressor and fan work like normal. What should I be looking for that's starting them from running when I'm out of diagnostic mode? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Loved your video, I have no idea how my refrigerator worked you made it seem so easy even I could understand it.
Thank you. i found the instructions under that right hinge over just like you said. Now i can enter the service mode to check all the systems
Hi Ben, this is a great video, so thank you very much. I am having a problem finding the codes for my fridge. The codes only go up to 43, and I was hoping my code was going to be 56 or 59 as I am having ice dispensing problems. I checked the top of my fridge as shown in your video but the sheet of codes was not there. Do you know how I can get my hands on these codes by using my model and serial number? Thanks,
Great video to at least get a clue on this refrigerator. Had a full frost freeze up, opened the panel covering the coils and of course it's frozen. Took out the two bottom screws but couldn't figure out how to get the bottom panel out completely. pulled the clipped sides but the top didn't come out. tried to remove the top, one screw, a pull but won't clear the top light and air ducting and didn't want to force it. Defrosted it, put it in 8 hr mode and waiting for the morning. Was in ADR mode(?) but changed to 8 hr mode and closed it up till am as said. Is it OK to leave in 8 Hr mode? Also, is ADR Automatic Defrost or ?
Thanks again for all the good and only information I could find, you tube or other.
David
Test #4 is confusing. If it proceeds through the steps how is this identified? I don't see anything changing,
Well did answer you; I think I got stuck.
Thank you. How do I get it to start making ice again? How cold should I keep the freezer? And how do I change the temp.?
Video was very helpful. I have an issue with code 17 says door is open when it's not. Any advise?
me as well. also, mine skips codes mentioned here.
Hello, i have a question, in the code 6 it show me 3 not 1 neither 2, and the code 7 doesn't show, I think that can be bimetal with troubles or the sensors. I appreciate if you can confirm that, thanks for this video was very useful.
I'm having same problem did he get back to you?
@@dannaclark4428 never, i had to contact the manufacturer cause it seem is a problem of that model in specific
So on test 6 I got a 2 bi metal open is that a pass or fail for the heater? Manual doesn't say what's pass or fail on test 6 having issues with fridge building Ice havnt noticed freezer.
Hey Ben! Thanks for the video- great information! I don't recall the repair tech running through any of these tests but I'm hopeful his diagnoses of a bad compressor was correct without it.
Votre vidéo m’a rassuré. Votre présentation est claire et extrêmement utile. Merci beaucoup!
My diagnostic codes only go to 48. Any thoughts on where to find the codes for that setup? Ice maker is on the door and the panel is identical to the one in your video. Thanks!
I have the same problem.
Hi is there a spacial way for the force defrost to work. I choose Long defrost, but when I exit service mode it does not start defrosting. I read somewhere something with the door switches has to be done. Thanks Ben as always you are great
So I have a kitchenAid 5 door refrigerator. I purchased this used. I had it plugged in for about 2 weeks. All seemed good. I put it into use. Found ice maker not working. It cooled but was always a few degrees higher than set temp. After about 6 weeks it would not cool. I watched your video. Following that I replaced evaporator fan Thermistor and thermostat. As well as fan in ice maker. When installing i found evaporator frozen. After that the ice maker would make about 3 cubes and melt. Held temp better. Fast forward 8 weeks. Evaporator is frozen again. And unit is not able to hold temp. Found evaporator frozen again.
I am a hvac technician. However I am not very knowledgeable in refrigeration. Could you possibly guide me in the right direction from here. Thank you. Mark.
Hi Ben, very helpful video. I live in Maryland and have a KitchenAid french door refrigerator freezer model number - KFIS29PBMS000. I ran all the tests in your video and they all passed. I have taken the refrigerator and freezer apart. This unit has two evaporators; one for the freezer and one for the fridge. Neither one is frozen over and both fans are running. The refrigerator gets to about 42 degrees and the freezer is only getting up to 22 degrees. Coils are clean. Compressor is running. Replaced refrigerator and freezer thermistors just in case. Trying 8 hour defrost mode now. Could it be low on refrigerant? Is there anything else to check? The new refrigerators are crap and I don't want to spend $3000 every 3-5 years on a new fridge. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.
Thank you for the thorough easy to follow video
Thank you so very much Sir for your work!I fixed a lot units with your videos
Man awesome!!! Thank u. This video saved me a a service call🙌💯
Hi Ben if diagnostic #6 flashes 03, what are the implications?
Same issue here. Can't seem to find that code sheet either for my model.
Hello. On #6 test I got a 03. What does that mean. My refrigerator is not cooling more than 50°
I have a KitchenAid KRMF706ESS01 - while the diagnostics seem very robust and this video is very helpful, the refrigerator itself has to be the worst appliance that I ever owned. The newest problem is that the freezer won't go below 20 degrees and the refrigerator section won't go below 40 degrees. I don't see any ice build up in the back as a lot of people have reported. When I run service test 6 Defrost Heater/Bi-metal, it displays 03 which is not described in the tech reference. (01=bi-metal closed 02=bi-metal open) what does 03 mean? Does this point to a potential problem? All of the other diagnostics check out ok. Any input from anyone would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
I have the EXACT same problem. Did you ever find a fix?
@@moogierawrx3 I have this problem just today were you able to find out what it was?
I have the exact situation did you ever find out what it was?
Hello Ben I have this exact fridge and liked your video. My control board was bad and I just replaced it. How do I program it to put the fridge back in use?
Thank you!
I am wondering the same thing, did you ever get it figured out?
Thank you for this info. My Top LEDS have been on in a very dim light. Changed out bottom led, bu didn't fix. What next?? Thank you
Hi Ben, very helpful video. We have a KSSC42QTS02 side by side that is from 2008. I can run diagnostics but the codes are different than the above. How do I find out what the codes mean? I can't find any manuals online describing the diagnostics code. Help pls! Problem is - Fridge/freezer not cooling. thanks so much
Thank you for this info. You've saved us a service call fee! I am not handy by any stretch of the imagination but I still try. And with your help I was successful. Salute good Sir!
Great video! I followed every step, but couldn't figure it out So I had a tech here today to diagnose my KitchenAid KRMF706ESS00, and he said compressor is working but the fridge isn't cooling so it's likely the sealed system, and usually the leak is in the evaporator coil. Does that sound right, and could it be anything else? Thanks very much!
Had a fridge in storage it’s a kitchen aid French door. Does it have to be level for fridge to blow air? The freezer working great. Stays manual let plug in for 24 hours hoping will work soon. Right now no air coming in top. The bottom is starting to cool
Does test 4 also put units with reversing valves into the "home" position?
If mine is not getting cold, witch test should i do first?
Hi Ben ...thanks for the video.
I have question and was wondering if u would be kind enough to answer.
I have a kitchenaid krfc604fss00 with icemaker in the door.
Can u tell me or direct me to info on how to remove it?
Outstanding informative post and I'm in Michigan Grosse pointe area, wish you were here... my kitchen aid could use some help
@Bens Appliance, If my fridge is freezing up constantly, should I use step#38, the forced defrost mode?
Already changed the mode step #7 to basic see if that does anything.
Great video by the way
Very helpful Video Ben: Unfortunately I have tried several of the tests you outlined in the video and still my evaporator will ice up after running for about a week and them the refrigerator section will start to climb in temp from about 35° to 45° and then hold. I assume this is cause from the lack of air flow over the Evap. The freezer section is working properly. When I took this apart the 1st time , I found the Evap Fan housing had been worked on before and the Styrofoam housing was broken. I replaced this housing including the fan and the fan is working OK. Test #1 & #2 show the thermistors to be within value and I have put the #7 test into 02 (Defrost in Basic mode) Any ideas what to look at next? Thanks for any input.
My KA fridge is doing the same thing, frosting up and temp rising. Replaced the fan and computer and it's still icing up every 2 weeks
Great video and well done. I have a Kitchenaid side by side with panel ice and water dispenser. The issue I have is that the icemaker produces ice, the door opens for the ice maker but the auger motor doesn't dispense the ice. I've replaced the ice auger motor and it still doesn't dispense ice. Any ideas on what to do next?
Same for me. Did you figure out how to fix? Thanks.
@@whoamirly7815 not yet but some thought it’s a broken wire at the bottom hinge but not the case for me.
Anyone found fix for this? I’m having same problem? No ice dispensing, water dispensing works fine? I also replaced ice auger motor and it did not fix anything.
There was a person who was replacing the door actuator switch for the ice maker as a fix but I haven't seen if this fixed the problem. I hear the ice maker flap open but the auger doesn't work.
I have issues with my icemaker not producing ice. Sometimes when I unplug it and plug it in it starts producing again. I just checked all of the error codes and everything seems fine. I also get repeat around the edges of the ice opening in the door. Any ideas on what I can try? Thanks for the helpful video!
Hello Ben. I have a Whirlpool Gold side-by-side gsf26c4exs03. It suddenly stopped cooling or freezing today. There's power and the fans are still pushing air out on both sides, but it's warm. Your procedure worked on mine to access diagnostics from the front panel. I have 02 open which is defrost. 06 bi-metal is closed. (passed). 16,17,24 are also open and 25=00. Do you think the defrost timer is bad? I am not sure how to manually turn that off to check. Thanks.
That doesn't have a defrost timer. It has a control board. I'd look at the compressor/relay and see if the compressor is vibrating and running, or if its not running well at all. Also check condenser coils underneath for impacted dirt.
I have a Kitchen Fridge KRFF707ESS01. It is frosting up every few months. I would like to ask you what I should do? should I replace the thermistor?
Hi Ben. When I enter diagnostic mode, the first 2 tests (01 & 02) do not flash a code. No 01, 02 or 03 -- the display just goes blank. Other diagnostic tests seem to work fine. Any ideas?? My symptom is that the ice and water dispenser as well as all the interior LEDs have quit working at the same time.
Hi Ben I've noticed recently that my fridge is having power issues, it only happens once or twice a month (lights, water or ice dispenser wont work and it may not be cooling), if you leave it alone for a while or restart the fridge it will continue to work as normal, I suspect it could be the power supply or the main board but I'll like to order the part I need and I was wondering if there a diagnostic I can run to figure it out what is the right one I need.
I have the 5 drawer model. 5 years old. Over a year ago I lost one of the small drawers panel board controls. Then the freezer stopped cooling. I was able to get away with using the fridge part for another year while the water dispense glitches (still waiting for a tech to come -too busy & they said probably replace). It’s been flashing “PF” (power failure) even though there’s power to the fridge and it’s running. No breakers flipped. Now the fridge and freezer have stopped cooling. Could it just be the mother board? I’m having a hard time throwing out a 6,000+ fridge without any servicing.
What should the temperature be in the icemaker? The freezer is 5 below and the refrigerator section is 34°. The icemaker checks in at 10° but I get some melting when the icemaker does work but it is not working consistently.
Hey Ben, I have a Maytag fridge and it’s showing that the door is open but all the doors are closed. Any tips of what the problem may be.
Great video, Ben. I have a KitchenAid KRMF706ESS 5 door unit and last night the ice/water dispenser was starting and then stopping and starting and then stopping and not running long enough to dispense any ice. I set my glass down on the counter it started dispensing without even touching the paddle to depress it and activate the switch. It did this a couple of times and got me worried so I locked it out but even when locked out I can put a glass under and as soon as I depress the lever a bit the display lights up and beeps showing me the lock so it seems like the paddle switch is working just fine but then it just stops and starts off and on and again does it after I have let go of the paddle. Would the correct test be the water dispenser test #46 and if so what does that tell me is bad if anything? Any thoughts on what this might be? Thanks
Thanks for the video!
Mine has code for 56 Ice Maker of E1= No cooling.
What’s the fix…?
Thanks!
So... what does it mean when a code doesn't appear for a test. Several of my tests show a blank set of digits? Otherwise, I love this video. Is there any place to get a 'decision tree' for what the diagnostics mean? I think I may need a new control board of some type... But which one and how do I find out?
Thank you for explaining step-by-step finally I will fix by myself
Very welcome
What a great video. I think I have a power board issue. The lights will go out and a few days later, the entire unit shuts down. When I unplug it and then plug it back in, It flashes PO and will begin to work again after I hit "confirm". It runs ok for about 3-5 days and the issue starts over. Doesn't this sound like a power board issue?
Yes, sounds like its either a board failure, or the wires are shorting/disconnecting intermittently. I'd try to take it apart and inspect it all before you go all-in for the board buy.
How do you change the temperature settings located on top of the interior drawer?
Usually the temperature of the chef's pantry or 4th drawer is controlled by the panel that's either on top of the pantry or on top of the 4th door. The wire harness that goes into each UI does have a tendency to break, so I'd check the physical wire connection for damage or defect.
On my kitchenaid refrigerator I hooked up an Reverse Osmosis water filter system to it and when I installed the included water filter in the upper right corner of the fridge the water comes out very slow, so I took out the filter that was included and the flow of water was much improved but now the replace water filter light comes on and I don’t know how to turn it off, opening and closing the water filter door on the upper right will not reset it like it would if I were putting in a fresh refrigerator filter, I was told I could run my own RO system through the fridge without the need to use the one the fridge came with, so is there a way to turn off the ‘’replace filter light’’ while using my RO system ?
Do you have to "reprogram" the four number code in this style of refridgerator when you instal a new mother board? I don't see the code anywhere. TIA!
Thank you Ben for the video. How come my ice maker didn’t make any ice. How do I fix it. Thank you
I have the same model in this video. My pad for testing only goes up to test 48 and can't get to test 58. My ice maker quit working. Just a week ago. water works. Any clue before I start replacing parts. Thank you Great video.
did you figure it out? I'm having the same problem and my panel doesn't show codes over 48 as well.
Is there a way to manually send water to various parts of the fridge (i.e. water dispenser, ice makers)? My Whirlpool Fridge (WRV986FDEM01) won't dispense water/ice after our power flickered out, and it's making a mechanical clicking/clunking noise intermittently (10 counts at a time). We had a tech come out a few weeks ago, and he replaced the valve/motor that sends water to the freezer ice maker, since he said that was the only place he couldn't get water to. I really can't afford to have a $280 part replaced every time a storm comes through. Any advice/tips? Thanks!
Hi
My KitchenAid goes up to step 48 only. At step 44, what should it be? There are 2 digits showing. At 45, mine is at 02=water fill is off, how do I fix that? At 47, mine is 02=open, what does that mean?
Hey Ben! I have the same refrigerator you where talking about. Every thing is working fine except it keeps flashing the PO letters. I have ran the test, pushed the measure fill button and unpluged the unit with no success. Is there anything else I can try to reset unit?
Hello, I own a KSC24C8EYY02. Few days ago, we had a power outage. Since then, my freezer won’t keep my foods frozen. I can feel the cold air but ice cream won’t stay frozen. What do you recommend that I should do first? What should I check?
I JUST had someone call me today about a similar issue - their thought was that the power/control boards got damaged and they went out and bought a new set to fix it. I would due the standard due diligence though - clean black coils from behind/underneath fridge, check for excessive ice buildup in freezer, and ensure all fans run properly, before going to that super expensive step, though.
@@bensappliancesandjunk Thank you so much for your response. I have a question about the #7 defrost mode and the #38 Forced defrost. If I were to use the #7 option, do I leave it at 02 for it to stay in the basic 8 hour mode? it says to switch back to ADC on before exiting the Service diagnostic mode.
for #38 Forced Defrost, what is the difference between the short defrost and the long defrost? Will it help with my situation? Maybe to thaw out the coils in the freezer instead of removing everything and using a blow dry?
@@GOMD77 Leave it at 02 to stay at 8-hr basic defrost. Whirlpool tells techs to leave it on 02 as it'll unthaw the fridge better over time.
#38 - I want to say that its the difference between a 5min and 15min defrost time. It would help thaw the coils out a bit better before having to use a steamer/fan or whatever.
Dude, freaking awesome video! You helped me big time! Thanks so much for sharing!!
My 2016 Kitchenaid KRMF706ESS01 doesn't get up to code 56 (stops at 48). Is there a way to upgrade the software, or does the unit simply not have the ability to run such tests? The ice maker shutoff arm is stuck in the up position (indicating ice storage bin full), so the unit won't make ice, and I don't see a Reset or Test button anywhere - just an On/Off switch for the ice maker, which is On. I've tried unplugging the unit, waiting a minute, and plugging it back in to see if that would reset it, but no luck.
Hey Ben, I have this same model and the LED lights were flickering then the entire thing lost all power an hour later. What do you suspect this could be?
Great vid! Thank you Sir! Very informative
Ben. Any idea why when I calibrate my water dispenser for one cup that when I go to dispense one cup it comes out as 1/4 cup range? Very odd. We live on well water. Maybe pressure in house water line isn’t strong enough? New filters coming soon in mail.
Hey Ben, excellent video. We have a model WRF767SDHZ double door Whirlpool with bottom freezer. Our ice maker does fine making ice it does NOT, however, dump ice into the door dispenser anymore. Because of this video we ran the diagnostic code 57 to dump any ice then ran #56. It gave E5. We are now defrosting to see if that will clear the whatever might be the issue. If we get another E5 after the defrost what would be your best suggestion? Thanks in advance.
On No. 38, I'd liek to turn on the Long Defrost. How do you turn it on once you've gotten to "Lo" blinking? Seems there isn't a way to turn it on. In the video, Ben said "If you use this it will defrost the unit in the lower cabinet." Thanks!
Great informative video. I wish my tech was as knowledgeable.
Great video, Ben! Thank you so much for providing this. I ran the full set of diagnostics on my KitchenAid (KFIV29PCMS03) and everything passed. This is strange, though, as the ice maker is not making ice. I've tried the regular and Max Ice mode, but neither worked. I am stumped by something else that may be related: The water dispenser didn't work, but when I reset the filter (dropped the door, removed and replaced the filter, then clicked the door closed, the water dispenser worked! Then I did it again and the water dispenser didn't work. This seems to be some sort of way to take the water dispense out of commission. And when the water dispenser DIDN'T work, the ice maker DID. Very strange. Do you think there is some sort of connection or interdependency with this behavior that is keeping my ice maker from working, when the water dispenser will work? I know the dual water valve feeds both the ice maker and water filter/dispenser lines. Could there be an issue with that valve? Thanks in advance for any advise or additional troubleshooting you can provide. And keep the videos coming!
This appears to be a common problem. Wish this guy would comment on his idea of the problem.
L
Update/Resolution:
After replacing the dual water valve the problem was fixed. Initially, when I buttoned everything up it worked. After 24 hours the water dispenser quit working, with a zero "0" code when the paddle was depressed. I pulled the fridge power for 60 seconds and plugged it back in and all is functioning well. Apparently this resets the main circuit board, even though the power was disconnected during the entire replacement process. It's been working well for several weeks now.
Another common issue on these is the wires going from the ice maker in the door to the main part of the fridge. They are in a wear area so the wires literally get rubbed against metal every time you open or close the freezer door. Eventually they get cut or short out. I’ve had to add lengths of wire twice in 2 years to ours because they have been worn down so badly. Kitchenaid knows of the issue and doesn’t care. They run along the bottom left corner, in the gap you see when the door is open. I think there’s a grey plastic cover over them. Pop it off and I bet you find a problem or one that is coming soon.
Hi Andrew. Do you have a link on where to get the parts?
Hey thanks for doing this. I had a question about test 3 (fan and motor test). The graphic on your vid shows what's tested for 1 and 2. However for 3 and 4 I am getting noise. What part is being tested in 3 and 4? When I put it on 3 it displays 13. The others show 01, 02, and 04.
Service Test - 3: Evaporator Fan and Air Baffle Motors
■ Control the RC and FC evaporator fan motors by depressing SW3 (01 =
both fan motors off. 02 = FC fan on).
■ Depress SW3 once to advance. Service Test 3 will flash quickly and
advance to tests 13/23 very quickly. The result is RC fan on, pantry air
damper on. Pantry air damper will open and close automatically (13 =
damper open, 23 = damper closed). Verify airflow inside pantry on lefthand side when damper is open (13 displayed). Airflow in pantry will cease
when “23” is displayed.
■ Depress SW3 to advance to last step (04 = both RC and FC fans on).
Hi Ben, I have a kitchenaid KRFF507ESS01. Behind my crisp drewer, It is frozen with ice! What should I do? Thanks a billion.
I have the same issue. Were you able to figure it out?
On service test 3 on code 13=damper open, air flow is verified, however 912 is not displayed? All other cooling tests are good with the exception of the ice box motor not turning on and off.
My kitchenaid fridge has episodes where is seems like it shuts off since interior lights go out and water/ ice dispenser isnt working but control panel still lights and work. The wine/ cheese and deli UI doesnt have light though. Any idea where i should start looking since there are 3 motherboards?
GREAT video, thank you. If you get a chance can you see why a 2022 model doesn't have the same test function numbers. Mine stops at 48 then to 77 and resume to normal. Trying to figure out why my Ice Maker quit again, last time it was the wires at the bottom of the door (very poor design? broke from opening and closing, imagine that.
I have a KRFC704FPS00 and it keeps freezing up. I can't find a evaporator fan kit for this unit. Any help would be appreciated. I'm guessing that's the issue based on watching some of your videos.
So how do you know something is wrong and what do you do if it's wrong, on each of those? And on #4, what if you go into that mode? Will it come out on its own?
Ran the diagnostics. Think we have a board issue. Service test 1, 2, 37 and 39 does not display anything. In all cases, it says the board will test.... Is this referring to the main control board?
Thanks!!! 45 is giving me a 02. I’m not getting ice but it’s like the dumping system is stock.
Same here. What was fix
Hi - I'm going through the codes and got to Code 6 and am getting 03 as my code.... can you clarify what that means? It's not in your vid or the manual. Thanks
Will need filter cause the water to stop flowing or stop from making ice?
Thank you a million times over.
Question is there anyway i can get a digital copy of the instruction manual for diagnostic mode and codes?
My Model is KRSC703HPS01: Having trouble with Fridg evaporator/heater frosting up. Do you have more information on Test 6 Defrost heater/Bi-metal, I am getting a code 03? But, no code 3 is listed on my spec sheet. Test 7 FC Defrost mode has a code 03=pass. So, not sure if the Diags Firmware could be out of alignment witht he docs.
@bensappliancesandjunk Any more info you can help here? Thanks in advance?
Ben, Thank you so much for your video I was shocked where the paper was at lol. Back of my pantry forms a thick Ice I did the all the tests through the sheet ..I do not understand #64. Would you please help me...when the refrigerator is in test mode those lights in pantry is off and after I turn off the mode it comes on. However is the 2nd time I have ice in back area of that pantry that I can not push the pantry bin all the way back. Also the side lights so not come on. Help me
I have another video on the ice sheet. Just look up the other kitchenaid video
When my KitchenAid freezer side goes in defrost mode it seems to stay off too long . Temp rises above 20 degrees Ice Cream , pop sickles etc. become soft. ANY WAY TO CHANGE SETTINGS for shorter defrost time OR some other settings so freezer doesn't warm up as much? THANKS..