I always love seeing Chuck's videos! Even when I get an email from Weaver Leather Supply, I read it while hearing Chuck's voice and his enthusiasm. haha
Thank you so much it's like y'all read my mind. I eventually make what I want and it comes out nice, but I usually end up forgetting something like not burnishing or painting a throat. Thinking about the order of operations makes everything easier and cleaner.
3:32 - "The tanneries basically said: we're gong to tan the leather up to this point; from there is up to you." Great description. My mind immediately went to cask-conditioning (ale) and I understood my role in leatherwork differently. Thanks!
Thanks for doing this video. I'm still in the beginner stage, and I needed an explanation of what order to perform these tasks in. This video is extremely helpful!! Thanks again!
Yes, understanding the order is key, and WHEN is even more important than understanding HOW to do each one. When I outlined the steps for one recent project, I was stunned that I had misordered them somewhat, rendering some steps impossible or v difficult. Luckily, *that was before I began!
I have always enjoyed your videos. I've picked up a lot of useful tips. The videos are short to the point, informative, and enthusiast.I do some leather work some of it is in native american rawhide work drums rattles. Have you done any rawhide work videos?
Love your videos. My question might have been covered and I’ve just missed it. How do you go about wet molding and stamping or carving the same leather? Seems to me if you stamp or carve first, you run the danger of ruining the piece when you wet mold. If you wet mold first, you have bends and curves not to mention leather that wants not to lie flat on the surface. I can’t seem to figure this out.
Hey Chuck, I've been wanting to try out making clothes for a while now. With leather of course. I know this isn't exactly relevant to the video but I haven't really found any videos on this and so I'm nervous about throwing away so much leather. It's easy enough to make small mistakes but a full coats worth is intimidating. Can you make a video on making a vest that includes tailoring tips if you have any? I should add, I hand sew everything.
Thanks for posting this. I tried to make a veg tan bracelet (first time leather work for me!) and I cut the leather first, then dyed, the then tried to do the edgework and add the buckles. The beveling was really hard to do and came out super crooked bc the leather was crispy after putting on my finish lol. gonna try again
Off topic! I would like to see a short video explaining lacing and grommet sizes like what size lacing should go with 1/4 " ID. Grommets and how far apart should the layout be ect.
I knew every individual step, and I knew how each needed to link to another, but this put it all together in a way that helped me see it all at once, and for that I am grateful. And as always, seeing Chuck's glee made me feel /better/, somehow.
Chuck, I love your videos. BUT I just messed up a week's worth of projects by changing my normal order of operations to match your video's order of steps. You suggested doing edges before finishing -- were you assuming that we all use machines to burnish? I use gum trag and canvas, and now know that it works as a resist and if you use it before you apply stain. Darn it, projects trashed, lesson learned. But I still love you and have learned so much from watching your videos.
Hi Chuck and greetings from Australia. Thought this would be an interesting leather element subject. I have recently got back into competition shooting after a break of over 20 years. One of my original holsters from all that time ago had been stored out of sunlight and in a dry environment. It has gone quite hard and dry but does not have any cracks or flaking, how can I restore the leather to somewhat close to what it was?
Have you done a leather element on product photography? While not directly leather involved, its essential for those wanting to go into the business side of leather.
Hey Chuck. Great Video, amswered a few questions I had. But I got one more: When I'm making a belt I usually dye and oil after tooling, then seal the surface with a thin coat of leather balm with atom wax. Then I apply a generous amount of antique to fill in tooling only, and the leather balm inhibits it from messing with my dye. But no matter how many coats of finish I apply after, the antique always cracks and crumbles. Sometimes after wearing the belt for a while, sometimes even before I finished sewing a liner on. Is there any way to stop that from happening? I use Fiebings Antique Paste Keep it up!
Hi there, It's probably the oil, we would say go oil, then dye and then the order you've been doing. Here is a video Joe Meling did for us on the process he takes. fb.watch/48C2CR9078/
Hi Josef, I rarely oil my leather, but, if I do it's a very lightly oiled rag that I run across the leather after the dye has dried. I do know that some folks will oil before dyeing so I would say if this is something you want to do, maybe experiment with oiling before and after dyeing and see which works best for you.
@4:56 you say “then we add our groove.” Is this something other than the stitching groove? Wouldn’t you want to add the stitching groove before you punch holes? What groove are you talking around at 4:56, please?
What about a project with tooling and wet formed, my last phone case I formed it then tooled it by leaving the plywood form under while tooling. Is there a better way
Hi Paul, You can tool before wet forming, but, I would steer clear of tooling the areas that will be shaped because you'll lose your depth. Tooling while the leather is on the mold is probably your best bet.
Ive made the mistake of lining my project to early in the process of making my project... Now some of earliest made wallet and card cases have an "intentional" dyed lining interior lol😅🤦♂️
I would suggest using an edge coating then. If ur slicking ur edges before dying then you need to use an acrylic paint of some kind preferably one made for leather.. Fiebings Edge Kote or Angelus Leather Paint are great choices. A key thing to remember is, dyes *do not* work on finished edges or glued surfaces.
Well well well some nice tips and things to learn here, when I put on ma leather, and rock to sum Metallica, Delta Parole, Foo Fighters or the Smashing Pumpkins I feel like I can do anything in the whole wide world.
I always love seeing Chuck's videos! Even when I get an email from Weaver Leather Supply, I read it while hearing Chuck's voice and his enthusiasm. haha
Glad you like them!
Chuck is a national treasure!
I just received my leather from Weaver , its better than I had imagined, huge double shoulder, great deal
Great to hear, thank you so much!
Great video, Chuck! I see veg tanned leather as a blank canvass. There are so many things that we can do with it. The possibilities are endless!
About a week into leatherwork, trying different types of projects, and this has been my main issue so far. Thank you!
Thank you so much it's like y'all read my mind. I eventually make what I want and it comes out nice, but I usually end up forgetting something like not burnishing or painting a throat. Thinking about the order of operations makes everything easier and cleaner.
Thank you, glad it was helpful!
3:32 - "The tanneries basically said: we're gong to tan the leather up to this point; from there is up to you." Great description. My mind immediately went to cask-conditioning (ale) and I understood my role in leatherwork differently. Thanks!
Magik. Thank you sir, superb delivery, so easy to understand.
Enjoy chuck’s videos informative and interesting
Glad you like them, thank you Colin!
Another great video Chuck! Looking forward to some upcoming project videos. Can't wait! Keep.it up!
Thanks for doing this video. I'm still in the beginner stage, and I needed an explanation of what order to perform these tasks in. This video is extremely helpful!! Thanks again!
Yes, understanding the order is key, and WHEN is even more important than understanding HOW to do each one.
When I outlined the steps for one recent project, I was stunned that I had misordered them somewhat, rendering some steps impossible or v difficult. Luckily, *that was before I began!
OLD LEATHER SMITH here, Excellent Chuck as always, GOD'S BLESSINGS ✝️⚾🙃
Thank you so much, Jim!
I have always enjoyed your videos. I've picked up a lot of useful tips. The videos are short to the point, informative, and enthusiast.I do some leather work some of it is in native american rawhide work drums rattles. Have you done any rawhide work videos?
Love your videos.
My question might have been covered and I’ve just missed it. How do you go about wet molding and stamping or carving the same leather? Seems to me if you stamp or carve first, you run the danger of ruining the piece when you wet mold. If you wet mold first, you have bends and curves not to mention leather that wants not to lie flat on the surface. I can’t seem to figure this out.
Hey Chuck, I've been wanting to try out making clothes for a while now. With leather of course. I know this isn't exactly relevant to the video but I haven't really found any videos on this and so I'm nervous about throwing away so much leather. It's easy enough to make small mistakes but a full coats worth is intimidating. Can you make a video on making a vest that includes tailoring tips if you have any? I should add, I hand sew everything.
I love Chuck.
Thanks for posting this. I tried to make a veg tan bracelet (first time leather work for me!) and I cut the leather first, then dyed, the then tried to do the edgework and add the buckles. The beveling was really hard to do and came out super crooked bc the leather was crispy after putting on my finish lol. gonna try again
Off topic! I would like to see a short video explaining lacing and grommet sizes like what size lacing should go with 1/4 " ID. Grommets and how far apart should the layout be ect.
I knew every individual step, and I knew how each needed to link to another, but this put it all together in a way that helped me see it all at once, and for that I am grateful.
And as always, seeing Chuck's glee made me feel /better/, somehow.
Chuck, I love your videos. BUT I just messed up a week's worth of projects by changing my normal order of operations to match your video's order of steps. You suggested doing edges before finishing -- were you assuming that we all use machines to burnish? I use gum trag and canvas, and now know that it works as a resist and if you use it before you apply stain. Darn it, projects trashed, lesson learned. But I still love you and have learned so much from watching your videos.
Hi Chuck and greetings from Australia. Thought this would be an interesting leather element subject. I have recently got back into competition shooting after a break of over 20 years. One of my original holsters from all that time ago had been stored out of sunlight and in a dry environment. It has gone quite hard and dry but does not have any cracks or flaking, how can I restore the leather to somewhat close to what it was?
Have you done a leather element on product photography? While not directly leather involved, its essential for those wanting to go into the business side of leather.
Thank you so much for the video!
Thank you so much for watching!
@@WeaverLeatherSupply No problem! Its my pleasure
I needed this
Glad it was helpful!
Hey Chuck. Great Video, amswered a few questions I had.
But I got one more:
When I'm making a belt I usually dye and oil after tooling, then seal the surface with a thin coat of leather balm with atom wax. Then I apply a generous amount of antique to fill in tooling only, and the leather balm inhibits it from messing with my dye.
But no matter how many coats of finish I apply after, the antique always cracks and crumbles. Sometimes after wearing the belt for a while, sometimes even before I finished sewing a liner on.
Is there any way to stop that from happening?
I use Fiebings Antique Paste
Keep it up!
Hi there,
It's probably the oil, we would say go oil, then dye and then the order you've been doing. Here is a video Joe Meling did for us on the process he takes. fb.watch/48C2CR9078/
Great video Chuck! Where does oiling the leather fit in with all the other steps?
Hi Josef,
I rarely oil my leather, but, if I do it's a very lightly oiled rag that I run across the leather after the dye has dried. I do know that some folks will oil before dyeing so I would say if this is something you want to do, maybe experiment with oiling before and after dyeing and see which works best for you.
@4:56 you say “then we add our groove.” Is this something other than the stitching groove? Wouldn’t you want to add the stitching groove before you punch holes? What groove are you talking around at 4:56, please?
What about a project with tooling and wet formed, my last phone case I formed it then tooled it by leaving the plywood form under while tooling. Is there a better way
Hi Paul,
You can tool before wet forming, but, I would steer clear of tooling the areas that will be shaped because you'll lose your depth. Tooling while the leather is on the mold is probably your best bet.
Thank you!
You're welcome!
Actually another question, where would you put oiling into this? I use the fiebings leather colours (water base) and it dries my leather right out.
Better just to use the pro dye instead friend!
Ive made the mistake of lining my project to early in the process of making my project...
Now some of earliest made wallet and card cases have an "intentional" dyed lining interior lol😅🤦♂️
Is there a certain order you use stamping tools?
Yes, see if this helps! th-cam.com/play/PLzvwlO3D_z7ey-cfnAsgYGtNsHSv84uTM.html&feature=shared
What about learning the whole "enchilada" what books should be the best suggestions?
Not possible. It depends on your project. Belt? Sheaths? Saddles? All different books with different skill sets.
@@knight4today, Oh okay just wanted to get a picture of what lies ahead more like jackets /mocs/gloves to work maybe with suede later.
When I do my edges before my die I can't get the die to take on the edges.
I like to use my dye as the way to wet my edges in order to burnish it
I would suggest using an edge coating then. If ur slicking ur edges before dying then you need to use an acrylic paint of some kind preferably one made for leather..
Fiebings Edge Kote or Angelus Leather Paint are great choices. A key thing to remember is, dyes *do not* work on finished edges or glued surfaces.
Well well well some nice tips and things to learn here, when I put on ma leather, and rock to sum Metallica, Delta Parole, Foo Fighters or the Smashing Pumpkins I feel like I can do anything in the whole wide world.