Very well done! I am very impressed with your tutorial style!! Thanks. I also appreciated the comparison at the end a lot. The amount of time you spent making this video will save us beginners loads of wasted time. Casing it is.
Thank you for this. As a new person in leather it helps to know the difference. I feel like i am teaching myself during this covid because no classes are open. So these videos really help.
Having someone who knows the best way to do even the simple steps (or who knows those that do ;) is such an invaluable resource. Thanks a ton Chuck for the time and effort you give to help us all get better!
Chuck your so right. I've done several versions of caseingg, and this by far is a wonderfull technique. After 50 odd years of tooling I'm changing the look of my work. Thanks so much. Just appreciate everything you teach us. Thank You, Tons... Robin Sr., peace...
Fantastic vid Chuck, I really appreciate the desire you seem to have to help everyone improve. Totally agree that a truly cased leather makes an enormous amount of difference!
Wow!! I would not have believed it, if I didn’t see it for myself. Huge difference. Definitely worth the the extra time. Chuck, you know the old saying, “seeing us believing.” Thank you. Best regards, Richard
Thank you so much Chuck. I'm an avid follower in the UK and although I can't catch your live shows (I always catch up) I watch everything you do. You have certainly taught me something today that I'll continue to use for the rest of my leather days so I am really grateful. Kind regards from Oxford.
Brilliant video, thank you. I've never had the difference between casing and wetting explained, and I've always been disappointed with my tooling finish, so this has been exactly what I needed. Subscribed x
Another fantastic video Chuck. They've changed my leather working from looking just okay to giving it that professional look. Thank you for sharing your experience.
Thanks Chuck - great information there. Finally got some tools and leather on the way to me - the leather is from an unknown supplier in China - but it might be okay.
I have mentioned this in other posts but worth mentioning again. It would be nice to have a closer camera shot of your work since you reference detail and technique so much that the viewer can not see with current camera distance.
Chuck, you deliver a wholesomeness that is unequal. You've made this craft super approachable, and I've decided to get into it. Is there any chance you could make a jacket or duster? It sounds like an advanced project, but maybe you can prove me wrong. Classic look and completely custom would make for a great video (or series)! Keep up the great work!
I have been told by some older leather workers that the term "Case" when applied to adding moisture came from years ago when leather wasn't as good as modern leather. It apparently was stiffer? The old saddle and harness makers had a wooden box or case lined with metal. The leather was put in the box with some water and left over night. Thus the term "Case". True or not - I really don't know for sure, but it makes for a good story, especially to start a leather class for new students. Stan
Question, if it’s been cased and you need to rewet, do you just rub water on like the first method or soak the whole thing and cover it for another day to let the water distribute?
I did learn from an old saddle maker and do put the leather when before tooling in a clean trash bag over night makes a huge difference in tooling time .
Wow! That looks like a big difference. Thanks Chuck! I have been having problems with how quickly my leather dries because I live in a desert (~9" rain/year, and average humidity around 44%) and I live at altitude (my house is at 5800'). I re-wet leather often when tooling leather. It looks like the casing would be helpful. You mention that you can re wet the cased leather, but you don't actually show it. Would you use a sponge at that point? Or submerge the whole thing again?
I’ve got a suggestion- can you explain what some terms mean, such as billet, gusset, etc and show what they look like and now they are used in leathercraft? I’ve tried Googling some of these and came up dry. Love you guys and your videos!
Chuck , hey.... I am making a full all weather cloak for outdoors, I have a nice dark Chrome tan, and will be lining with a medium weight grey wool twill..... should I contact cement the whole project then stitch the collar and seams?
@@WeaverLeatherSupply Yes! Thanks Awesome, it was like a clay tablet with a skin on ,so soft. Had to re learn how hard to tap with the mallet. Did a warrior girl on horse back, came out nice. Shame I can't add a picture. Will case again for shore 👍😁
Thanks for the video. I always just assumed that casing meant "wet the leather and then let it dry a bit before stamping". Any chance you could give a more exact measurement for the dish soap or mouthwash? (Tablespoon per two cups?)
Wonderful and educational as always! Question: for those of us who are impatient like me, could you store your leather in something like a humidor or something? So when you're ready to tool, you just pull it out and it's already at the proper hydration?
If your stamping/tooling takes a while to complete, do you just keep it in a baggie to keep it moist? Or rewet or do you have to recase it again after a while?
Quick question and possibly a good idea for a video. As I'm new to leather work I have limited room in my garage for a workspace. The more I get into it the more tools and materials I get.... Space, storage, and organization are becoming an issue. Maybe do some good ideas for space organization?
Hi James, what size are you looking for? I'm showing we've still got some medium, large and XL sizes left. Just pick the size from the drop down. We will have some new apparel coming next year once these are gone! :) www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/item-detail/93-1082-md/weaver-leather-supply-hoodie/pr_48310
Dont forget that the purpose of casing is to get the moisture into the middle of the peice. the glass top method allows the moisture to move into the middle andout the sides.
Chuck, your tooling may be better than you give yourself credit for. Perhaps it just took truly cased leather to show its full potential. If the top toolers always case, and one of them tooled some uncased leather, that tooling would probably look worse than they deserve. So far every tooling video I've seen just whetted the leather and called it casing, until this video. Thank you for showing what true casing is. I will definitely be giving it a try.
I made a purse recently lots of tooling, I didn't use the maul(hammer) with the beveling stamp I just pushed the edges with my hand an it came out way better than what I could of done but I also loose the experience by not using a maul
Thank you for the great videos! I have a question on order of operations. I have a leather project where I am going to be doing 2 edge grooves with a serpentine border in between them, then inside the center of the piece have a modified basket weave along with a few stamps down the center line. This is also going to be wet molded over an oval piece of wood and dyed and sealed. As far as the order of operations, should I case the leather piece first, then do the edge grooves, serpentine border and all the stamping in the center, then wet mold it the oval piece of wood, then, after it dries, dye and seal it?
Hi Jason, Yes, that is the correct order of operations, just be aware that if you stamp or carve and then wet mold- you may lose some of the definition in your stamped areas because you're stretching the leather over a mold.
Hey chuck. Love what you are doing. It’s so helpful. I hope this is a leather element, but either way it’s a question I want an answer too. Awls. There are many different kinds. What are they each for. I basically use a scratch awl to trace patterns, ream holes, line up holes, punch holes, etc. Is there a better awl tool to do these things with?
Hi there! A scratch awl is to be used exactly how you are using it, marking your leather for patterns, lines, and holes. A stitching awl is used in conjunction with pricking irons and stitch markers. Basically you mark where the stitch holes will be and then you use a stitching awl to actually poke each hole as you go. These are mostly used when sewing heavy leather, where a stitching chisel wouldn't be able to get through all the layers.
I do have a question, don't think it's enough for a leather element, but, when you're making say a case for a rounded rectangular box, how would you properly measure a piece to wrap around the rounded corners?
Heyya Chuck, It's me again. lol. my question is...when casing leather, I followed your video to the letter. the piece turned out beautifully. However after the leather had completely dried it wasnt as soft and supple.. So unfortunately I added neats foot oil to the back. so it wouldnt darken the piece. I did some tooling and pyrography for the application of the design. Like I said it turned out beautifully. but when I flipped it over the neats foot oil had soaked through totally ruining 3 weeks of work. My question is what product would have been better to soften the leather . But not darken it in the least possible way? Thank you very much, you've taught me so much. We really do appreciate the show.
Hello. We are so sorry to hear about your project and that the time you invested into it only to have the oil leak through your project. To soften the leather, we have a couple product recommendations for you below: Oakwood Leather Conditioner: www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/item-detail/50-2153/oakwood-leather-conditioner/pr_35391/cp_/shop-now/leather-care/oil-conditioners/conditioner Smith's Leather Balm - www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/item-detail/50205-/smiths-leather-balm/pr_65527/cp_/shop-now/leather-care/oil-conditioners/conditioner Always remember to test out the conditioner on a scrap piece of leather to see how it reacts and conditions before applying to your actual project. Good luck!
A couple comments / questions… You and other leather tool folks always use a thick stone slab for tooling. Other than the weight, does a thick stone slab have “magical” properties that make tooling better? Can a person just go to a big box store or stone business and purchase a thinner (½") piece of marble (or porcelain)? That would provide a nice flat surface that, at least, practically provides some of what thick stone provides. Most stone slabs appear to be 1½" thick. Would a 1" slab be just as good; would a 2" or 2½" (or 3"), but for the weight, slab be better? Relative to wetting… It seems a fine mist spritz of water be just as effective for “re-wetting” a piece. The small droplets sh/would quickly re-absorb into the leather. If one was not using vet-tanned leather, is wetting “treated” / chrome tanned leather ill-advised? What kind of tooling and limitations should we consider doing with chrome tanned leather?
Hi there, The main reason for using a thick piece of marble and quartz for tooling is because it ensures your maul and mallet strikes are deadened and have no bounce which results in a much more crisp impression with your stamping tools. A 1" piece would work as well, anything thinner than that you will run the risk of breaking or cracking it. Thicker than 1-1/2" works great, the thicker the better but because of the weight most leather suppliers sell 1-1/2". As far as re-wetting, the thing you want to avoid is water spots. This is why we recommend using a sponge, not a spray bottle. Chrome tanned leathers will not carve and tool well. Because of the way they are tanned, wetting them won't make them moldable or toolable. You can press a makers mark into most chrome tan leather if you have a press but carving and tooling won't give you good results, the stamping impressions just won't stay. Hope that helps!
Hi Jerry, Just a few of that I really look up to are Peter Main and Jürgen Volbach but there are so many great artists. Check out Shoptalk magazine, they feature a lot of great leather workers and craftsmen.
Thanks Chuck, this answered some things I had been wondering about for a while. One question: does the time required for casing the leather vary much depending on the leather thickness, or is around 15 seconds of soaking followed by 24 hours of sitting typically good for most weights?
Hi Rick, The 24 hours of sitting will be uniform with all thicknesses but as far as soaking I would say soak it until most of the air bubbles subside - this could be a little bit longer than 15 seconds on some heavier weights.
Thanks Chuck. Busy with a tooled cowboy belt. Wish I saw this before I started the billets. Have to tool the belt and have put tape on the back to limit stretching. Do I still dunk the whole thing in water?
Oddly enough, one of the tips I got from the pros is to overcut, not for stretching like I do, but because the leather dries from the edges in and you can cut that off. Yet again, I’m doing something right but for the wrong reason! Just a call but I may say add your tape just before you start tooling. The flesh side will be a good bit less wet and a pretty good packing or painters tape shouldn’t have any issues. I’ve heard a good 3M spray adhesive works well too. Chuck
@@WeaverLeatherSupply I had already dunked the billet (4mm - 10 oz veg) with blue painters tape on the back. But put that piece on a plastic cutting sheet, covered that with some plastic tracing film and weighted it with a plank with a piece of granite on it for weight. left that for about 18 hours before tooling. that side definitely came out better that the the buckle billet that I just sprayed wet. Now to work out how to lay out my 47" belt blank. I am using 8-9oz veg for front and lining 2" wide
Could you please contact us either by phone or message us on Facebook or Instagram with your order number so we can check on your it for you? Our phone number is 800-932-8371.
Hi Eugene, The best way to do this is to bounce it, but, if you're having trouble with that, you can certainly do one hit at a time and just overlap as you go.
Leather Element Idea OR Video Link Request: when dyeing veg tan leather bracelets and belts, how can I keep the dye from running off on my wrist and/rubbing off on the waist of my khaki pants? Is there something I can coat the underside of my projects to prevent this?
Hi Davin, I would jut use the same method - you could roll the belt blank loosely so it fits in a smaller container of water. Just make sure it loosely rolled so it can still absorb the water.
Do you have a video that talks about how to prevent pricking irons from landing on the edge of leather? Seems like every time I make something, the iron always lands at the edge of a wallet pocket.
Hi Caleb, We'll link a video below where Chuck goes over this. The main thing you want to do is make sure the stitching chisels are straight up and down when you go to hit them with the mallet. If the handle is angled inward, there is a good chance the tines can come out the sides of the bottom layer of leather. You also want to make sure the layers of leather are even, of the bottom layer is even slightly smaller that the top layer, this could cause the chisels to poke out the edge. Hope this helps - you can also try practicing on some scrap just to get comfortable with the process. th-cam.com/video/AEsSbYBLxD4/w-d-xo.html
@@WeaverLeatherSupply Thank you for the response. It hard to explain my question haha. So when I create a pattern and then cut out that pattern, everytime I go to stitch, a stitching hole always lands on the edge of a layer of leather. Therefore, it causes the very end of the layer to have a split in the leather due to the stitching hole landing there. Does that make sense? Is there a formula for creating a pattern where the stitching hole doesn't land on the edge of a pocket/layer? Sure it doesn't hurt anything, I just don't like the look of it but also like for every hole to be 5mm apart. Let me know if that makes sense or not haha.
I properly cased my entire 6" piece of leather in water. after 24 hours I used small; 1/4" x 1/4" stamps. The impressions I got seemd to look good, However, the larger stamps did not look good or go deep enough. What am I doing wrong. Is the larger stamps not sharp enough . I thought I did every thing right.
We would recommend to case the entire belt (to keep water lines from showing up if we use a lighter color dye). You can re-wet cased leather if needed but try to keep re-wetting to a minimum and don’t over wet because it just needs a little moisture on the top grain-it’s already wet within the strap. Too much water or rewetting too often will make the tooling back out a bit and it won’t be crisp. Saran wrap will help keep the as-yet-to-be-tooled areas wet as you move down the belt.
Very well done! I am very impressed with your tutorial style!! Thanks.
I also appreciated the comparison at the end a lot.
The amount of time you spent making this video will save us beginners loads of wasted time.
Casing it is.
Glad it was helpful! Thank you for watching!
I loved the fact that you showed us a comparison between wet and cased leather.
Always top tier teaching, Chuck!
I freaking love the leather element, the enthusiasm and teaching top notch! Thanks Chuck!
Thank you for this. As a new person in leather it helps to know the difference. I feel like i am teaching myself during this covid because no classes are open. So these videos really help.
Glad it was helpful, Tammi!
Great video. I suspect my lack of casing is one reason that my tooling and carving, well, SUCKS dishwater. I'll give this a try!
I said it before and I'll say it again. Chuck is what a teacher/instructor should be!
No wonder, that was the missing piece of the puzzle, I think my work is going to look a lot better, thanks a lot ,cheers
Having someone who knows the best way to do even the simple steps (or who knows those that do ;) is such an invaluable resource. Thanks a ton Chuck for the time and effort you give to help us all get better!
Every day learn something new. Thank you Chuck. As always life changing tips from you. Have a lovely weekend.
Thanks, you too!
Nearly everything I learned about leather craft is from Chuck.
Chuck your so right. I've done several versions of caseingg, and this by far is a wonderfull technique. After 50 odd years of tooling I'm changing the look of my work. Thanks so much. Just appreciate everything you teach us. Thank You, Tons... Robin Sr., peace...
I gained the confidence to try tooling thanks to you and your videos. The difference in my early work and the new stuff is a world away.
Fantastic vid Chuck, I really appreciate the desire you seem to have to help everyone improve. Totally agree that a truly cased leather makes an enormous amount of difference!
Wow!! I would not have believed it, if I didn’t see it for myself. Huge difference. Definitely worth the the extra time. Chuck, you know the old saying, “seeing us believing.” Thank you.
Best regards, Richard
In my eyes you are definitely a pro Chuck thanks for all the awesome helpful videos.
What a difference! Thanks for the lesson, Chuck!
Was actually about to muddle through a carving project as your video popped up on my phone. Always good info from you
Had no idea it makes such a difference! Takes some planning ahead, but definitely better to case leather. Thank you for the video!
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you so much for being here. I have learned so much by your videos. Keep them coming.
Thank you, Judith!
Great comparison of techniques, this is exactly why I like this channel! Keep up the good work Chuck!
Brilliant craftsmanship... Thank you Chuck. 🇬🇧
This is the best element yet! Thanks for all the information, your support and kindness.
Thank you, Shawn!
WOW! What a great instructional video! I am blown away! You are my hero, Chuck!
Thank you so much, Lon!
Thank you so much Chuck. I'm an avid follower in the UK and although I can't catch your live shows (I always catch up) I watch everything you do. You have certainly taught me something today that I'll continue to use for the rest of my leather days so I am really grateful. Kind regards from Oxford.
Brilliant video, thank you. I've never had the difference between casing and wetting explained, and I've always been disappointed with my tooling finish, so this has been exactly what I needed. Subscribed x
Another fantastic video Chuck. They've changed my leather working from looking just okay to giving it that professional look. Thank you for sharing your experience.
Thank you so much, Matt!
Another EXCELLENT tutorial, great explanation as to why
Glad you liked it! Thank you!
Man I love these videos, the amount of knowledge you have shared with us, amazing!!
Thanks Chuck - great information there. Finally got some tools and leather on the way to me - the leather is from an unknown supplier in China - but it might be okay.
Id love something new! How about a video on decorative stitching. Or decorative pieces ontop of wallets?
Amazing demonstration, thank you.
I have mentioned this in other posts but worth mentioning again. It would be nice to have a closer camera shot of your work since you reference detail and technique so much that the viewer can not see with current camera distance.
Excellent video. Very informative. Thank you
Very good information. Didn't know there was a difference after having watched so many of your other videos.
I really love this show 😍👍 thanks so much! I'll try it 🙌
Another great video, with sound advice. Thanks Chuck! 🙂
Я из России, увлекаюсь этой темой и всегда с удовольствием и пользой смотрю Ваши видео!!! Спасибо!!!
Thank you for taking the time to comment! I’m so happy you find pleasure and benefit in the videos! Chuck
Chuck, you deliver a wholesomeness that is unequal. You've made this craft super approachable, and I've decided to get into it. Is there any chance you could make a jacket or duster? It sounds like an advanced project, but maybe you can prove me wrong. Classic look and completely custom would make for a great video (or series)! Keep up the great work!
Brilliant Tips! Thank you for sharing
Thank you for this video and info. Will definitely case my leather next time . Thanx
Glad it was helpful!
Impressive difference, thanks!!
I have been told by some older leather workers that the term "Case" when applied to adding moisture came from years ago when leather wasn't as good as modern leather. It apparently was stiffer? The old saddle and harness makers had a wooden box or case lined with metal. The leather was put in the box with some water and left over night. Thus the term "Case". True or not - I really don't know for sure, but it makes for a good story, especially to start a leather class for new students. Stan
Thank you, Stan! That's very interesting!
Thanks for the tip. I haven't tried it yet, but plan to in the near future. Never heard of the "soap" tip, but will try it. Thanks again.
Glad it was helpful!
Question, if it’s been cased and you need to rewet, do you just rub water on like the first method or soak the whole thing and cover it for another day to let the water distribute?
I did learn from an old saddle maker and do put the leather when before tooling in a clean trash bag over night makes a huge difference in tooling time .
Thank you so much for the knowledge!!! I’m eager to learn more!!!!
That's beautiful! Thank you! I qgree. Its worth casing it instead of just getting it wet!
Most helpful videos I've found ever!! Just subbed
Thanks so much, Joe!
Anything to note when you re-wet the cased leather aside from wet the whole piece?
Just what I was looking for this evening! Thanks! :D
What a great case for casing!
Wow! That looks like a big difference. Thanks Chuck!
I have been having problems with how quickly my leather dries because I live in a desert (~9" rain/year, and average humidity around 44%) and I live at altitude (my house is at 5800'). I re-wet leather often when tooling leather. It looks like the casing would be helpful. You mention that you can re wet the cased leather, but you don't actually show it. Would you use a sponge at that point? Or submerge the whole thing again?
Hi David,
To re-wet the cased leather, I would use a sponge and just add a layer and let it wick in.
This was a great question thank you for asking this
Nice and brilliant idea
I’ve got a suggestion- can you explain what some terms mean, such as billet, gusset, etc and show what they look like and now they are used in leathercraft? I’ve tried Googling some of these and came up dry. Love you guys and your videos!
OLD LEATHER SMITH here, that's exactly how it's done, thanks Chuck, GOD'S BLESSINGS ✝️⚾🙃
Thank you, Jim!
Chuck , hey.... I am making a full all weather cloak for outdoors, I have a nice dark Chrome tan, and will be lining with a medium weight grey wool twill..... should I contact cement the whole project then stitch the collar and seams?
Have cased, can't wait till tomorrow !😀
Hope you enjoy it!
@@WeaverLeatherSupply Yes! Thanks Awesome, it was like a clay tablet with a skin on ,so soft. Had to re learn how hard to tap with the mallet. Did a warrior girl on horse back, came out nice. Shame I can't add a picture. Will case again for shore 👍😁
@@WeaverLeatherSupply Here see if this link works to see my first five pieces. th-cam.com/video/VWQaJBvHMQw/w-d-xo.html
succinct and incredibly useful as always. 👍
Thanks for the video. I always just assumed that casing meant "wet the leather and then let it dry a bit before stamping". Any chance you could give a more exact measurement for the dish soap or mouthwash? (Tablespoon per two cups?)
My favorite Weaver video! I currently use a Craftool B701 beveler, which is matted. I’d like to get a smooth one. What do you recommend?
Wonderful and educational as always! Question: for those of us who are impatient like me, could you store your leather in something like a humidor or something? So when you're ready to tool, you just pull it out and it's already at the proper hydration?
If your stamping/tooling takes a while to complete, do you just keep it in a baggie to keep it moist? Or rewet or do you have to recase it again after a while?
Thank you so much!
Hey Chuck, great video, I was wondering, does cased leather take dyes better/differently than non cased leather?
Quick question and possibly a good idea for a video. As I'm new to leather work I have limited room in my garage for a workspace. The more I get into it the more tools and materials I get.... Space, storage, and organization are becoming an issue. Maybe do some good ideas for space organization?
Something new to do this weekend! Thank You Chuck..... and by the way the sweat shirts at Weaver website are all gone... :(
Hi James, what size are you looking for? I'm showing we've still got some medium, large and XL sizes left. Just pick the size from the drop down. We will have some new apparel coming next year once these are gone! :)
www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/item-detail/93-1082-md/weaver-leather-supply-hoodie/pr_48310
XXL. I’m big boned LOL
or just chunky....well i'm fat....its earned...
Great video! After the piece fully dries out over ti, will the burnishing and difference still be so pronounced?
Yes, the burnished look will remain after it dries.
Dont forget that the purpose of casing is to get the moisture into the middle of the peice. the glass top method allows the moisture to move into the middle andout the sides.
Chuck, your tooling may be better than you give yourself credit for. Perhaps it just took truly cased leather to show its full potential. If the top toolers always case, and one of them tooled some uncased leather, that tooling would probably look worse than they deserve. So far every tooling video I've seen just whetted the leather and called it casing, until this video. Thank you for showing what true casing is. I will definitely be giving it a try.
great video
I made a purse recently lots of tooling, I didn't use the maul(hammer) with the beveling stamp I just pushed the edges with my hand an it came out way better than what I could of done but I also loose the experience by not using a maul
Thank you for the great videos! I have a question on order of operations. I have a leather project where I am going to be doing 2 edge grooves with a serpentine border in between them, then inside the center of the piece have a modified basket weave along with a few stamps down the center line. This is also going to be wet molded over an oval piece of wood and dyed and sealed. As far as the order of operations, should I case the leather piece first, then do the edge grooves, serpentine border and all the stamping in the center, then wet mold it the oval piece of wood, then, after it dries, dye and seal it?
Hi Jason,
Yes, that is the correct order of operations, just be aware that if you stamp or carve and then wet mold- you may lose some of the definition in your stamped areas because you're stretching the leather over a mold.
Please pardon my ignorance...but how much of that difference will be negated when dye/antiquing is applied?
Does Weaver actually carry a smooth bevel stamp? I can't find it on the website. Only textured bevels.
Not yet, but we are working on it per Chuck's request :)
When you re-wet the cases leather do you need to case it again if you don’t get the whole project done before it drys to much?
Hey chuck. Love what you are doing. It’s so helpful. I hope this is a leather element, but either way it’s a question I want an answer too.
Awls. There are many different kinds. What are they each for.
I basically use a scratch awl to trace patterns, ream holes, line up holes, punch holes, etc. Is there a better awl tool to do these things with?
Hi there!
A scratch awl is to be used exactly how you are using it, marking your leather for patterns, lines, and holes. A stitching awl is used in conjunction with pricking irons and stitch markers. Basically you mark where the stitch holes will be and then you use a stitching awl to actually poke each hole as you go. These are mostly used when sewing heavy leather, where a stitching chisel wouldn't be able to get through all the layers.
I do have a question, don't think it's enough for a leather element, but, when you're making say a case for a rounded rectangular box, how would you properly measure a piece to wrap around the rounded corners?
Heyya Chuck, It's me again. lol. my question is...when casing leather, I followed your video to the letter. the piece turned out beautifully. However after the leather had completely dried it wasnt as soft and supple.. So unfortunately I added neats foot oil to the back. so it wouldnt darken the piece. I did some tooling and pyrography for the application of the design. Like I said it turned out beautifully. but when I flipped it over the neats foot oil had soaked through totally ruining 3 weeks of work. My question is what product would have been better to soften the leather . But not darken it in the least possible way? Thank you very much, you've taught me so much. We really do appreciate the show.
Hello. We are so sorry to hear about your project and that the time you invested into it only to have the oil leak through your project. To soften the leather, we have a couple product recommendations for you below:
Oakwood Leather Conditioner: www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/item-detail/50-2153/oakwood-leather-conditioner/pr_35391/cp_/shop-now/leather-care/oil-conditioners/conditioner
Smith's Leather Balm - www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/item-detail/50205-/smiths-leather-balm/pr_65527/cp_/shop-now/leather-care/oil-conditioners/conditioner
Always remember to test out the conditioner on a scrap piece of leather to see how it reacts and conditions before applying to your actual project. Good luck!
Hey Chuck, ever seen any leather cuff or spirals that a biker could put on his beard to keep it from blowing up in his face?
How would you make one?
A couple comments / questions… You and other leather tool folks always use a thick stone slab for tooling. Other than the weight, does a thick stone slab have “magical” properties that make tooling better? Can a person just go to a big box store or stone business and purchase a thinner (½") piece of marble (or porcelain)? That would provide a nice flat surface that, at least, practically provides some of what thick stone provides. Most stone slabs appear to be 1½" thick. Would a 1" slab be just as good; would a 2" or 2½" (or 3"), but for the weight, slab be better?
Relative to wetting… It seems a fine mist spritz of water be just as effective for “re-wetting” a piece. The small droplets sh/would quickly re-absorb into the leather.
If one was not using vet-tanned leather, is wetting “treated” / chrome tanned leather ill-advised? What kind of tooling and limitations should we consider doing with chrome tanned leather?
Hi there,
The main reason for using a thick piece of marble and quartz for tooling is because it ensures your maul and mallet strikes are deadened and have no bounce which results in a much more crisp impression with your stamping tools. A 1" piece would work as well, anything thinner than that you will run the risk of breaking or cracking it. Thicker than 1-1/2" works great, the thicker the better but because of the weight most leather suppliers sell 1-1/2".
As far as re-wetting, the thing you want to avoid is water spots. This is why we recommend using a sponge, not a spray bottle.
Chrome tanned leathers will not carve and tool well. Because of the way they are tanned, wetting them won't make them moldable or toolable. You can press a makers mark into most chrome tan leather if you have a press but carving and tooling won't give you good results, the stamping impressions just won't stay.
Hope that helps!
thanks chuck! great learning you teach.just wondering, who is the best tooler and your hero?
Hi Jerry,
Just a few of that I really look up to are Peter Main and Jürgen Volbach but there are so many great artists. Check out Shoptalk magazine, they feature a lot of great leather workers and craftsmen.
@@WeaverLeatherSupply thanks chuck :)
Keep teaching.
Thank you.
Thanks Chuck, this answered some things I had been wondering about for a while. One question: does the time required for casing the leather vary much depending on the leather thickness, or is around 15 seconds of soaking followed by 24 hours of sitting typically good for most weights?
Hi Rick,
The 24 hours of sitting will be uniform with all thicknesses but as far as soaking I would say soak it until most of the air bubbles subside - this could be a little bit longer than 15 seconds on some heavier weights.
How do your pieces dry so flat? Mine curl real bad. How do I fix or prevent that?
Where does the glass slicker come in?
Thanks Chuck. Busy with a tooled cowboy belt. Wish I saw this before I started the billets.
Have to tool the belt and have put tape on the back to limit stretching. Do I still dunk the whole thing in water?
Oddly enough, one of the tips I got from the pros is to overcut, not for stretching like I do, but because the leather dries from the edges in and you can cut that off. Yet again, I’m doing something right but for the wrong reason! Just a call but I may say add your tape just before you start tooling. The flesh side will be a good bit less wet and a pretty good packing or painters tape shouldn’t have any issues. I’ve heard a good 3M spray adhesive works well too. Chuck
@@WeaverLeatherSupply I had already dunked the billet (4mm - 10 oz veg) with blue painters tape on the back. But put that piece on a plastic cutting sheet, covered that with some plastic tracing film and weighted it with a plank with a piece of granite on it for weight. left that for about 18 hours before tooling. that side definitely came out better that the the buckle billet that I just sprayed wet. Now to work out how to lay out my 47" belt blank. I am using 8-9oz veg for front and lining 2" wide
Need to order a few tools from you. Have set up the account. We will have to see how much this works out in our very weak Rand.(around 17/$ now)
Hey I ordered something last Friday and I was wondering when I could expect it to show up?
Could you please contact us either by phone or message us on Facebook or Instagram with your order number so we can check on your it for you? Our phone number is 800-932-8371.
Great video check it answered a ton of my questions
You the best, I need class
Chuck I have a idea Weaver should make hardware kits ( 5 buckles, 5 clips, ETC.. ) something like this to sell to us
To sell.
Do you recommend bouncing the shading background shading tool or one hit at a time
Hi Eugene,
The best way to do this is to bounce it, but, if you're having trouble with that, you can certainly do one hit at a time and just overlap as you go.
@@WeaverLeatherSupply
Thanks so much for answering
Leather Element Idea OR Video Link Request: when dyeing veg tan leather bracelets and belts, how can I keep the dye from running off on my wrist and/rubbing off on the waist of my khaki pants? Is there something I can coat the underside of my projects to prevent this?
How to case different colors of leather?
Thanks for the lesson. What would be the best way to case a belt blank?
Hi Davin,
I would jut use the same method - you could roll the belt blank loosely so it fits in a smaller container of water. Just make sure it loosely rolled so it can still absorb the water.
@@WeaverLeatherSupply Thanks for the great advice 👍
Do you have a video that talks about how to prevent pricking irons from landing on the edge of leather? Seems like every time I make something, the iron always lands at the edge of a wallet pocket.
Hi Caleb,
We'll link a video below where Chuck goes over this. The main thing you want to do is make sure the stitching chisels are straight up and down when you go to hit them with the mallet. If the handle is angled inward, there is a good chance the tines can come out the sides of the bottom layer of leather. You also want to make sure the layers of leather are even, of the bottom layer is even slightly smaller that the top layer, this could cause the chisels to poke out the edge. Hope this helps - you can also try practicing on some scrap just to get comfortable with the process.
th-cam.com/video/AEsSbYBLxD4/w-d-xo.html
@@WeaverLeatherSupply Thank you for the response. It hard to explain my question haha. So when I create a pattern and then cut out that pattern, everytime I go to stitch, a stitching hole always lands on the edge of a layer of leather. Therefore, it causes the very end of the layer to have a split in the leather due to the stitching hole landing there. Does that make sense? Is there a formula for creating a pattern where the stitching hole doesn't land on the edge of a pocket/layer? Sure it doesn't hurt anything, I just don't like the look of it but also like for every hole to be 5mm apart. Let me know if that makes sense or not haha.
Exellent!
I properly cased my entire 6" piece of leather in water. after 24 hours I used small; 1/4" x 1/4" stamps. The impressions I got seemd to look good, However, the larger stamps did not look good or go deep enough. What am I doing wrong. Is the larger stamps not sharp enough . I thought I did every thing right.
Just carved a piece that I cased and there is no comparison! It cut like butter and I won't be using any other technique from now on.
Great to hear!
how would you case a belt to prepare for tooling?
We would recommend to case the entire belt (to keep water lines from showing up if we use a lighter color dye). You can re-wet cased leather if needed but try to keep re-wetting to a minimum and don’t over wet because it just needs a little moisture on the top grain-it’s already wet within the strap. Too much water or rewetting too often will make the tooling back out a bit and it won’t be crisp. Saran wrap will help keep the as-yet-to-be-tooled areas wet as you move down the belt.