ScannerDanner Tools: www.scannerdanner.com/tools.html www.amazon.com/shop/scannerdanner Also don't forget to check the description of this video for links to other mentioned videos
ScannerDanner Btw I have come to notice that some test light flicker tests when checking for spark isn’t always as accurate with led style test lights. Best to use the older style test lights for those tests.
@@Mechaniclyfe yes, never use an LED type light for this type of testing, first you risk cooking the light and second, very low voltages still make these lights look the same as higher voltage. I almost never use an LED light for troubleshooting. The test light I used in this video is an incandescent style bulb and it is listed on my Amazon affiliate link above in the pinned comment. It is around $20 for that light
FINALLY! Old school OBD1 diagnosis! Now we're talking. Now, we're in my area of diagnosis. Test lights and flow charts.However, I did enjoy seeing the lab scope used to verify your diagnosis. Thanks , Paul. Great video on control of coil circuit.
As a Corvette fan I appreciate that your keeping them running! Your editing is fantastic Paul. It's always a pleasure to watch your videos. It's very apparent that you take pride in your work. And congratulations on having a shop bay. Nothing to do with this video but I wanted to thank you for all the videos over the years. I recently fixed a vehicle that went to other shops. They gave up. Your classes and videos were instrumental to me in how I found the issue. (2006 Dodge Ram, intermittent crank, no start).
Paul and James, I truly enjoy your videos. Just sent in my monthly subscription and will continue to be a part of your class for as long as you put out videos. Watch your regular and new and improved classes all the time. Your son Caleb is also a big part of your success as he does a great job of editing and the asking of questions all us novices would ask. I know aircraft inside and out and now want to know automotive electronics inside and out. Thank you for that opportunity and answering any questions I might have. Thank everyone involved its a true family effort. also, thank Rosedale Tech for allowing you to do it. Great job ❤️️ Paul I wanted to mention your brother James shop is quite large. Looks like a friendly place to work. Best of luck to all
Thank you Arthur! I agree, Caleb adds an element that I cannot recreate without him and he has gotten really, really good with editing. Although I take the credit for this one. Caleb has about 2 weeks left before he graduates, then I get to have him full time! I am so looking forward to this and you guys will definitely benefit from him being around more. It has been rough the past few months as he has the lead role in the schools musical/play and he's at practice 5 days a week, then leads church worship on Sundays. No time for SD right now, but that is changing soon!! Thank you for helping me make this possible. TH-cam ad revenue alone simple doesn't pay the bills.
FINALLY! A video on a GM OBDI car. And on an engine that I actually have! On that engine, every ignition related part is difficult to gain access to. Two digit fault codes and 50 data PIDs. Aahhh, the good old days. A great video. Thank you for sharing.
Thank you so much for this video. This was my exact problem on my c4. I used noid lights, a test light and a multi-meter and was able to follow along. Also, my car (1996 OBD-II) did not throw any codes. The car died while driving and would not restart, all fixed. Thanks!
The dtc 41 will set if the PCM sees more than 4.6 volts while cranking the engine. The IC signal goes between 0.5 to 4.5 volts. Great video and glad to see you working with your brother 👍. You two are awesome teachers and techs.
For me it's a higher level diagnostic case study involving various potentially defective parts living in different locations. Thank you so much for sharing the knowledge! 👍
Danner, I'm not quite sure whats changed be it softwor techniques. Either way your video editing and flow is insanely better than it was years back. It still worked back then and got the point across. Its just amazing now. Great video Danner(s)
I'm so glad you made this comment. I really have learned how to enhance the videos with still pictures or previous scenes and also the addition of arrows for what I am talking about. It really take a long time to do this! This video was about 6 or 7 hours of editing and as I was completing this, I was thinking to myself, is it worth the time? Sounds like it was!! Thank you so much
Yep Danner was right smart people always had a spare module in the glove box. High failure rate with ignition module along with rotor burn thru, coil failure & distributor cap carbon tracking. Great video and look forward to seeing you guys working together.
Awesome video. Helped me find out my problem with my 96. The issue I’m having now is finding a good ICM. I bought a delco, Delphi, and a Napa but all were junk.
Engine stopped in parking lot with no warning. Just did these checks on my '85 Corvette. No flash on the test light. New cap rotor, they were shot even though I replaced them 1 year ago. Coil had power, replaced it and ICM. Is running great now!
This was the problem with my 92 vette..shop said Opti spark ..then did some testing and called back and said ICM...wow from 1400 to 400.00...great video
Thanks for this video! My 1992 C4 just threw this 41 code this weekend. You've just saved me a whole lot of head scratching. Now I know where to focus my attention. It's likely I have the exact same problem, which requires the exact same solution. Now I know how to check it out properly. Hopefully that will have my Corvette running again very soon.
"Old Rattletraps"? My '87 C4 L98 is hurt by that comment. Truly cut to the quick. LOL. Great video, thank you. I have similar problems but it takes about 90 minutes before I get the performance drop and attempt to stall.
Great video, wish I knew more about how to use these tech devices but these types of videos always help, thanks it guided me in the right direction to troubleshoot some issues on my vette. Thanks
@@tracycolorado haha nah, we're past those days, plus I don't work for him, what we do is mutually beneficial for each other. It is a win, win. If I worked FOR him, you would be right, there would be issues
Love seeing you and your brother together! SO happy for you guys. We'll never forget the Ranger and the 'Vette - the 2 first diag vids from Danner's new shop! 👍👍 I had never even seen an Optispark system until just recently, when a family friend bought a mid-90's Camaro. Car ended up being more than he bargained for, so he got rid of it - I never got to play around with it (probably a good thing from the looks of it). No idea why GM went that route - I think the HEI was 20x more reliable, at least after each system got 15 or more years on them (IMO). Even the flat distributors on the first OBD-II trucks were a cross-firing, moisture-trapping nightmare. GM never likes to stick with what works ... great for us, but annoying when you own one! Appreciate all your hard work on these vids, Paul! Can't imagine the hours this took to piece together. GREAT job! THANK YOU!! 🍻
Hey Scanner you're technical so you'll get this. White balance is all about colour tint in any given light. What you were talking about, with respect, is contrast. Loving your work man thanks.
Perfect... as always Paul..Thank you so much,once again..Don't bother with shots and white balance.Your videos are fine and we will always follow you ...
And the mounting of the icm, right on the hot head. We put nuts on the bolts behind them, to make make them stand off the head and allow air flow behind the icm.
One Thing i do admit Your lighting on the actual lighting on the components is very good..BETTER then eny videos i have seen.wich is excellent.THANK YOU AGAIN FOR YOUR..HUMBLELIZUM...SHOP..JOKE.
I am about as amateur as you can be. I can replace parts and some basic troubleshooting but I love the logic you lay out here. Very solid help.I do not have a cool scanner, Danner. I have one of these boat anchors in a 1994 S10 Blazer, painless wiring harness and MSD coil and distributor. Crank no start. I have signal at the injectors, I have signal at the coil, I have fuel pressure, but no spark at the spark plugs. Can anyone "talk me off the edge of the cliff" cuz I feel I should replace the opti but I want to be sure. ICM I did replace.
@@ScannerDanner if there were wiring mods, it was done by the previous owner. However, everything seems to be coming off of, or connecting to, original wiring harnesses or to the Painless harness. It ran and drove, i let it sit and then it would not start.
@@Muddytrickle okay, is spark good at the coil itself? It should jump more than a half inch gap. I use an incandescent test light for this test. DO NOT use an LED light, it will cook it.
“That’s racist!” Hahaha! Awesome video as always! I just subscribed to your premium channel last night. Really looking forward to learning more. Thanks!
That’s a bad place to put a module. The failure rate is high when they sit on the hot engine. You’d think they would be smarter then that. Ford knew it and moved it. Smart thing to do is move the module or make an insulater to mount it to. No doubt it’s gonna happen again.
Great vid and great Diag. had one 95 Vett in for CEO of local NBC station in for a No Start and noticed a leaking W.P. on the cam cap diaged a Module and replaced the DIST unit but DIDN'T REPLACE the COIL later in the week vett back for interment stall, cut-off and no start.... WTF.. Back at the shop Starts ..runs ruff and rich.. Bang Bang on the PCM and pow BTN. bad coil = bad MOD= bad PCM =$$$ Moral of the story, Replace all ignition components on this type vett at the same time! Period... the initial problem was the water pump leaking on/into the cap.. Popped the module and it was replaced, but latter to find out that errant high voltage back feed into the ECU. Try finding an ECU for a 95 Vett cant... have to have the ECU rebuilt at a cost higher than they cost new. REPLACE ALL
ScannerDanner I’m watching one now 👍🏻 I’m going to be doing some filming on it soon for our new channel any pointers are greatly appreciated all the best jay
@@eastprestonclassics3963 if it is an injector short, you will have good spark and good fuel pressure and no injector pulse when you test for it. You can take and unplug one injector and test it with a test light. I have some videos on testing fuel injectors too. If you have one, a noid light comes in very handy for this test
ScannerDanner The car cold starts and runs really smooth for a car of her age after about 6mins it then dies and won’t re start and at this point I have no spark but still has power going to the opti .I replaced the coil but not the ignition module as the paper work said it had been changed but I’m not sure 🤔
Okay, then don't worry about the injectors and do the tests I've shown in this video with the test light to confirm module operation. Make sure it is an incandescent test light, if you're using an LED type light, throw that thing in the garbage, they are useless for troubleshooting
i forgot about those systems seems there was a relocation to get that module out of the heat and vibrations check old tsb's. ford had the same problem with the thick film modules .
good point, also thermal grease breakdown, which was often just plain dielectric silicone grease. I always changed over to white goop and made sure the bole holes in heatsink/dist base was flat, seen plenty over-torqued, which mushroomed the mating surface and held the module off the base.. they couldn't figure out why the modules lasted days to weeks lol..
crazy ole me? I just bounce and ricochet around wildly, sometimes pretending to be dumb(lazy) depends on the time of day and having partaken in tasty adult beverages ;)
depends on what it does after it stalls. #1 when it stalls does it immediately restart or does it take time? #2 if it doesn't immediately restart, if you open the throttle a little will it start back up? #3 if it doesn't restart and it still doesn't restart after opening the throttle, then you need to find out what you are missing (spark, fuel pressure, injection pulse) for me to help any further.
@@ScannerDanner Thanks Paul, It would restart right away until we replaced the coil and ICM, now it takes time. We will run those other checks. FYI it doesn't throw any codes, and at present won't link to our OBD2 scanner. Cheers
Hey Scanner Danner, We have a 99 Corvette C5 Cranks No Start No spark No Comm No Fuel. One of the guys in our shop installed a new starter on this car and hooked up a gray/blk wire from the wire loom that did not belong on the positive terminal. He heard something pop, a little smoke and he quickly cut the wire and the car has not run since. Relay 42 is for ignition under the hood. With the key on that relay buzzes non stop because every coil is firing continuous like a hi RPM spark all 8 of them. It has no spark or fuel when cranking.. The wipers won't turn off either which might be a separate issue and it has no communication for scan tool. Is the information your reading at 20:03 only available on a Snap On scanner? I've been looking everywhere for the function of the 99 Corvette C5 PCM fired ignition. It has no electronic module or distributor. Its called DIS (Distributorless Ignition System) I can find where to buy the parts all day but nothing on function or testing 99 GM's DIS system with no electric module or distributor. Sure I can test for spark but this is different. We bought the schematics for it, whole package and it has many years worth of Corvette info but has nothing on expected voltages and function at given wires. Each coil has a body ground and a Positive key on 12V positive. Simple enough Also has a ground shared with the injectors that comes through INJ1 and INJ2 Fuses coming to the coil on a pink wire. I just need to be able to understand how the system works before I can understand how all coils are firing continuously like a wire welder with the key on.😀
There is an ECM ground that is blk/wht that says on the diagram "right side of engine above starter". If this is the wire that got connected to battery positive, you cooked the engine computer. I've seen this before on a Cobalt, just watch the first few minutes of this two part series. th-cam.com/video/hJQ6qnhTgdg/w-d-xo.html 45 seconds in, I mention about all of the coils firing, but didn't show it, sorry
For my DIY guys out there, or for those of you in the field doing some side work and need service information. You can buy access to a single car for $20 for a month, just bill this to your customer or make it part of your diagnostic fee eautorepair.adtrk.biz/?a=10817&c=24&p=r&s1=
The C5's all have issues with the body grounds and corrosion. It would be nice to see you go through one of those as it pretty much applies to all C5's as they all eventually start getting intermittent electrical issues.
You seem to be very knowledgeable about these older vehicles. I have a 1988 Corvette I deleted the smog pump and the EGR and the cats set for a little while when I went to start it it idles perfect as soon as you give it gas it falls on its face, popping and strong smell of fuel. Any help would be fantastic.
Popping through the intake? This is classic lean condition systems. And yes lean misfiring can smell like raw fuel. Check fuel pressure first. Second is a resistance measurement of all of your injectors. Shorted injectors are common on this era
@@ScannerDanner I did a home test on the injectors and they all came up at approximately 16.5 waiting to get a fuel pressure gauge to check the fuel pressure brand new cap wires, plugs, temperature sensor and checked the fuel pressure regulator, which was good this car is driving me crazy any help would be much appreciated
I pulled the ECM and reseated the prom Still doing the exact same thing when you step down on the pedal, it falls on its face call will not get up over 10 miles an hour
I have a 1992 Sonoma 4.3. So I checked for spark and fuel. I’m getting both. I removed the distributor and made sure I’m at TDC and I am. Injectors are spraying good. Replaced the ignition coil as well. I’m getting a code ”12” reading. I looked it up and people are saying it’s a no distributor reference pulse from the ecm. Has anybody else ran into this problem and if so what was the solution? Just change out the ecm?
to be clear there are two white wires, one goes to the ECM and is the control wire for the ICM for when to fire and the second is coil negative. Which one have you tested and how did you test it? Do you have injector pulse?
If you are talking about the ignition control module, that is incorrect on this model. On bypass systems, the crank sensor produced and AC sign wave that was converted by the ICM and was then sent to the ECM as a digital signal. If you are talking about something with the alternator circuitry, I can't answer that as I haven't looked at the circuit.
@@ScannerDanner Scanner, my mistake as that's what I was trying 2 remember was the magnetic crank sensor sending out AC sign waves later transferred to the ECM! Thx 4 responding!
@@curlymyhero that is called a by-pass ignition system, where the crank signal is fed to the ICM first, NOT the ECM. Then the ICM converts the AC sign wave into a digital square wave and then sends it to the ECM
Just found your channel. Wish I had you as my mechanic locally. I have a 92 vette with a code 41 that I got from the dashboard, but I think yours has an OBD2 port, right? Mine is an OBD1, and I don't have a clue what scanner to buy. I checked Amazon for a used one. Didn't know what to buy. Do you have any advice for someone in my shoes?
I have an 89 Camaro no spark pick up coil test good on ohms test good I believe 89 has the bypass where the ignition control module inside the distributor controls, spark while cranking and not the computer with that being said the only other issue it could be is that ignition control module I believe as I have power on that ignition coil feed do you have a video doing a no spark with the bypass system like I have?
and pretty much every gm products of that era, same module, same heat sink, just different location. often caused by the junk flat-pack dist cap/rotor and wires killing the coil ;)
@@throttlebottle5906 the LT1, 92-96 Vettes have the good 'ol Optispark distributor mounted to the front of the engine. Looks like an octopus. 1992 and 93 models that have a water pump leak will turn the Opti into green goo. Coolant drips right into it, improvements to seal up the Opti were made in '94. It is driven by a pin turning at the end of the camshaft.
@@ozzstars_cars "anti-spark" is more fitting a term :)) right, big ugly flat cap and other gm's had similar but in standard rear distributor location, they'd always burn through internally and you'll get multiple cylinders firing at once, regardless of the button direction and that's without any green crusties from coolant leak! seems a good candidate for electric water pumps, but i don't recall if there ever was such a thing for them..
1. Check for spark at coil wire 2. If no spark check for battery voltage at pins A and D of ICM 3. If no power at A & D then chase pink wire back to fuse 11 for break in wire 4. Check for Ignition control on pin B, use meter or scope and look for .5 - 4.5 Vac or square waves indicating a signal/pulse 5.if no voltage check for continuity from pin B on ICM to black connecter on ECM pin 5, if open or infinite repair wire 6. Check for 5v on A and B of Opti spark harness, and for battery voltage on pin C 7. Fuel pressure should hold 40-50 psi
not sure what you mean? The reason I did not bother to check the inputs after finding no spark, was I had an RPM signal during cranking. That is why I focused on coil "control" next
@@ScannerDanner ok thanks for reply . i mean what are the necessary inputs to ecu in general not in this case in order the ecu to proceed with the signal to the igniter? Sorry for my English I am a foreigner
ScannerDanner Tools:
www.scannerdanner.com/tools.html
www.amazon.com/shop/scannerdanner
Also don't forget to check the description of this video for links to other mentioned videos
Why would my ltft be all over the place under load changes when stft seems steady between 0 and +10?
ScannerDanner Btw I have come to notice that some test light flicker tests when checking for spark isn’t always as accurate with led style test lights. Best to use the older style test lights for those tests.
Thx Scanner 4 the link, these tools r amazing and I already got 2 in my cart!
Just wish there were more Mercedes in Pennsyl. 4 u guys to tear apart! I like working on them but they r tricky!
@@Mechaniclyfe yes, never use an LED type light for this type of testing, first you risk cooking the light and second, very low voltages still make these lights look the same as higher voltage. I almost never use an LED light for troubleshooting. The test light I used in this video is an incandescent style bulb and it is listed on my Amazon affiliate link above in the pinned comment. It is around $20 for that light
FINALLY! Old school OBD1 diagnosis! Now we're talking. Now, we're in my
area of diagnosis. Test lights and flow charts.However, I did enjoy seeing the lab scope used to verify your diagnosis. Thanks , Paul. Great video on control of coil circuit.
As a Corvette fan I appreciate that your keeping them running! Your editing is fantastic Paul. It's always a pleasure to watch your videos. It's very apparent that you take pride in your work. And congratulations on having a shop bay. Nothing to do with this video but I wanted to thank you for all the videos over the years. I recently fixed a vehicle that went to other shops. They gave up. Your classes and videos were instrumental to me in how I found the issue. (2006 Dodge Ram, intermittent crank, no start).
Paul and James, I truly enjoy your videos. Just sent in my monthly subscription and will continue to be a part of your class for as long as you put out videos. Watch your regular and new and improved classes all the time. Your son Caleb is also a big part of your success as he does a great job of editing and the asking of questions all us novices would ask. I know aircraft inside and out and now want to know automotive electronics inside and out. Thank you for that opportunity and answering any questions I might have. Thank everyone involved its a true family effort. also, thank Rosedale Tech for allowing you to do it. Great job ❤️️ Paul I wanted to mention your brother James shop is quite large. Looks like a friendly place to work. Best of luck to all
Thank you Arthur! I agree, Caleb adds an element that I cannot recreate without him and he has gotten really, really good with editing. Although I take the credit for this one. Caleb has about 2 weeks left before he graduates, then I get to have him full time! I am so looking forward to this and you guys will definitely benefit from him being around more. It has been rough the past few months as he has the lead role in the schools musical/play and he's at practice 5 days a week, then leads church worship on Sundays. No time for SD right now, but that is changing soon!!
Thank you for helping me make this possible. TH-cam ad revenue alone simple doesn't pay the bills.
FINALLY! A video on a GM OBDI car. And on an engine that I actually have! On that engine, every ignition related part is difficult to gain access to. Two digit fault codes and 50 data PIDs. Aahhh, the good old days. A great video. Thank you for sharing.
Thank you so much for this video. This was my exact problem on my c4. I used noid lights, a test light and a multi-meter and was able to follow along. Also, my car (1996 OBD-II) did not throw any codes. The car died while driving and would not restart, all fixed. Thanks!
Awesome! Nice job transfering the tests I was showing to the equipment you have.
The dtc 41 will set if the PCM sees more than 4.6 volts while cranking the engine. The IC signal goes between 0.5 to 4.5 volts. Great video and glad to see you working with your brother 👍. You two are awesome teachers and techs.
For me it's a higher level diagnostic case study involving various potentially defective parts living in different locations. Thank you so much for sharing the knowledge! 👍
Danner, I'm not quite sure whats changed be it softwor techniques. Either way your video editing and flow is insanely better than it was years back. It still worked back then and got the point across. Its just amazing now. Great video Danner(s)
I'm so glad you made this comment. I really have learned how to enhance the videos with still pictures or previous scenes and also the addition of arrows for what I am talking about. It really take a long time to do this! This video was about 6 or 7 hours of editing and as I was completing this, I was thinking to myself, is it worth the time? Sounds like it was!!
Thank you so much
@@ScannerDanner It's absolutely worth the time! THANK YOU!
This vintage ignition was almost always ignition module back in the'90s. ODB one gotta love it.
I'm actually really stoked for more video of the Danner Brothers. Always great content
Finally bought your book today. Great stuff
Yep Danner was right smart people always had a spare module in the glove box. High failure rate with ignition module along with rotor burn thru, coil failure & distributor cap carbon tracking. Great video and look forward to seeing you guys working together.
Awesome video. Helped me find out my problem with my 96. The issue I’m having now is finding a good ICM. I bought a delco, Delphi, and a Napa but all were junk.
Great video Paul good to see your brothers shop up and loaded with clients. Looking foward to seeing many more videos
We appreciate auto technicians like you, thx for sharing.
You are a pair of talented men. Looking forward to more.
Engine stopped in parking lot with no warning. Just did these checks on my '85 Corvette. No flash on the test light. New cap rotor, they were shot even though I replaced them 1 year ago. Coil had power, replaced it and ICM. Is running great now!
Always thankful for the low tech ways to test. Maybe one day I can find a decent scan tool on ebay or some where for cheap.
the test light "control test" is one of my favorites!
working with your brother that shop better be ready to get busy yall are awesome techs
This was the problem with my 92 vette..shop said Opti spark ..then did some testing and called back and said ICM...wow from 1400 to 400.00...great video
Thanks for this video! My 1992 C4 just threw this 41 code this weekend. You've just saved me a whole lot of head scratching. Now I know where to focus my attention. It's likely I have the exact same problem, which requires the exact same solution. Now I know how to check it out properly. Hopefully that will have my Corvette running again very soon.
Glad I could help
Darn it..
No more Heyyy Peteeeeeee..
Excellent diag. like always Paul..
Its great to see this in action just like the book...
What happened to Pete?
"Old Rattletraps"? My '87 C4 L98 is hurt by that comment. Truly cut to the quick. LOL. Great video, thank you. I have similar problems but it takes about 90 minutes before I get the performance drop and attempt to stall.
Danner has a pretty nice shop, congratulations to him. I hope we'll be seeing more of the Danner boys in the future.
count on it!
Clear and too the point as usual, good vid , Paul's vids never get boring
Great video, wish I knew more about how to use these tech devices but these types of videos always help, thanks it guided me in the right direction to troubleshoot some issues on my vette. Thanks
Great to see the Danner brothers together! 👍 Thanks for another informative video!
Reminds me of the early 90s Ford systems.
Good videos Sir. Thanks
top notch. when your brother called you saying it runs perfectly i was not surprised! great video
Congrats Paul and Danner! Im glad you two are working together! Im sure you two will kill it!
Voltage Drop Diagnostics , or each other, what ever comes first.
tracycolorado ha! Thanks always a possibility when working when family! Lol
@@tracycolorado haha nah, we're past those days, plus I don't work for him, what we do is mutually beneficial for each other. It is a win, win. If I worked FOR him, you would be right, there would be issues
thanks man!
boy that remind me alot of the old day diagnostic with test light on module.thanks
Love seeing you and your brother together! SO happy for you guys. We'll never forget the Ranger and the 'Vette - the 2 first diag vids from Danner's new shop! 👍👍
I had never even seen an Optispark system until just recently, when a family friend bought a mid-90's Camaro. Car ended up being more than he bargained for, so he got rid of it - I never got to play around with it (probably a good thing from the looks of it). No idea why GM went that route - I think the HEI was 20x more reliable, at least after each system got 15 or more years on them (IMO). Even the flat distributors on the first OBD-II trucks were a cross-firing, moisture-trapping nightmare. GM never likes to stick with what works ... great for us, but annoying when you own one!
Appreciate all your hard work on these vids, Paul! Can't imagine the hours this took to piece together. GREAT job! THANK YOU!! 🍻
Oh, about 6 or 7 for this one :-)
@@ScannerDanner - Not surprised there! WOW! Thanks for the effort!!!👍 🍻
I just did all of this yesterday with the same conclusion. Glad i was correct.
Thanks a lot for the video, really helped my brother out getting his lt1 back on the tarmac where it belongs here in 🇬🇧
Even with the glare you still produce great videos Paul.
Beautiful job love the way the brothers get along scanners explanation enjoy this very very much thank you guys
Paul, thanks for all the quality content, edits, and reference material you provide!
I'm also liking the arrows pointing out items in videos.
Time consuming but worth it for sure
Hey Scanner you're technical so you'll get this. White balance is all about colour tint in any given light. What you were talking about, with respect, is contrast. Loving your work man thanks.
Very familiar with these cars. I own a 93 Corvette and I've worked on a lot of them as well.
Intermittents are fun on the GM systems! Nice Diagnostics, Nice Outcome for the car.
great video SD thanks opti spark brings back memories
Great video. Watching you guys makes me wish I had a brother! 😅👍🏻👌🏼
Great video always learn when watching.you two brothers are awesome together.
aw job Danner ,test light is 1 of best friend forever.
Perfect... as always Paul..Thank you so much,once again..Don't bother with shots and white balance.Your videos are fine and we will always follow you ...
And the mounting of the icm, right on the hot head. We put nuts on the bolts behind them, to make make them stand off the head and allow air flow behind the icm.
That is a great tip!
A heat sink would help. Be creative, great video.
@@MrCoontastic They came with heat sinks, but the heat sink were mounted flush against the head.
@@diymisfit_Mechanic_UDX404 yes meant like a real cpu cooler or they could of just put it all on the firewall too begin with.
@@MrCoontastic ah ha, yes great idea
Gotta say he knows his stuff!
Good idea to space the module OFF the head. Get an air gap between the head and module. Usually fixes the fried module issue,forever.
Can u just carefully tie it off the engine ?
Nice ! Filming/editing looks great! Tell your brother good look with his new shop. Nice Set up !
Thank you Dos Danners. Good job. I appreciate your videos. Have a blessed and safe week.
Two Danners for the price of one. So Clark is as talkative as ever. Where is Nick? It's gonna be fun!!
Keep the videos coming. really well done thanks!
Thank you! I had a ton of time in the edits on this one
Love these videos with your brother, he is a cool dude! Awesome job guys!
One Thing i do admit Your lighting on the actual lighting on the components is very good..BETTER then eny videos i have seen.wich is excellent.THANK YOU AGAIN FOR YOUR..HUMBLELIZUM...SHOP..JOKE.
Thank you! I really put a lot of time into the edits on this one
Awesome,like the old school tech as well! Thanks
Thanks for this! I drive a 95 Z28 with the LT1! Lots of great info!
Nice! Tell your Corvette friends 😉
@@ScannerDanner I'll tell my Camaro and Impala SS friends, too. ;-)
Great stuff, don't have scope so I appreciate the test light method
I'm glad to be growing up in the days of OBDII.
It's all the same. The flow charts still suck lol
@@ScannerDanner Lol. At least we have more pids to help give us direction though, and everything is (within reason) standardized.
I am about as amateur as you can be. I can replace parts and some basic troubleshooting but I love the logic you lay out here. Very solid help.I do not have a cool scanner, Danner. I have one of these boat anchors in a 1994 S10 Blazer, painless wiring harness and MSD coil and distributor. Crank no start. I have signal at the injectors, I have signal at the coil, I have fuel pressure, but no spark at the spark plugs. Can anyone "talk me off the edge of the cliff" cuz I feel I should replace the opti but I want to be sure. ICM I did replace.
Was the MSD coil and distributor one that is direct plug it or did you modify the wiring?
@@ScannerDanner if there were wiring mods, it was done by the previous owner. However, everything seems to be coming off of, or connecting to, original wiring harnesses or to the Painless harness. It ran and drove, i let it sit and then it would not start.
Is it a flat distributor cap with the plug wires on the sides?
@@ScannerDanner - yes it is.
@@Muddytrickle okay, is spark good at the coil itself? It should jump more than a half inch gap. I use an incandescent test light for this test. DO NOT use an LED light, it will cook it.
Man thus stuff literally excites me. Thank you for opening me up to it!
“That’s racist!” Hahaha! Awesome video as always! I just subscribed to your premium channel last night. Really looking forward to learning more. Thanks!
Thanks so much! I look forward to hearing from you in the comments of the videos.
Good video Paul and Danner you guys are great,fun one
That’s a bad place to put a module. The failure rate is high when they sit on the hot engine. You’d think they would be smarter then that. Ford knew it and moved it. Smart thing to do is move the module or make an insulater to mount it to. No doubt it’s gonna happen again.
Great vid and great Diag. had one 95 Vett in for CEO of local NBC station in for a No Start and noticed a leaking W.P. on the cam cap diaged a Module and replaced the DIST unit but DIDN'T REPLACE the COIL
later in the week vett back for interment stall, cut-off and no start.... WTF..
Back at the shop Starts ..runs ruff and rich.. Bang Bang on the PCM and pow BTN.
bad coil = bad MOD= bad PCM =$$$
Moral of the story, Replace all ignition components on this type vett at the same time! Period...
the initial problem was the water pump leaking on/into the cap.. Popped the module and it was replaced, but latter to find out that errant high voltage back feed into the ECU.
Try finding an ECU for a 95 Vett cant... have to have the ECU rebuilt at a cost higher than they cost new.
REPLACE ALL
Thank you for your reply much appreciated I have fuel pressure I will check the injectors next 👍🏻 keep you posted
I have videos on shorted injectors on these early model GM systems
ScannerDanner I’m watching one now 👍🏻 I’m going to be doing some filming on it soon for our new channel any pointers are greatly appreciated all the best jay
@@eastprestonclassics3963 if it is an injector short, you will have good spark and good fuel pressure and no injector pulse when you test for it. You can take and unplug one injector and test it with a test light. I have some videos on testing fuel injectors too. If you have one, a noid light comes in very handy for this test
ScannerDanner The car cold starts and runs really smooth for a car of her age after about 6mins it then dies and won’t re start and at this point I have no spark but still has power going to the opti .I replaced the coil but not the ignition module as the paper work said it had been changed but I’m not sure 🤔
Okay, then don't worry about the injectors and do the tests I've shown in this video with the test light to confirm module operation. Make sure it is an incandescent test light, if you're using an LED type light, throw that thing in the garbage, they are useless for troubleshooting
Thank you guys lots of fun.
Always enjoy your videos with your bro
i forgot about those systems seems there was a relocation to get that module out of the heat and vibrations check old tsb's. ford had the same problem with the thick film modules .
good point, also thermal grease breakdown, which was often just plain dielectric silicone grease. I always changed over to white goop and made sure the bole holes in heatsink/dist base was flat, seen plenty over-torqued, which mushroomed the mating surface and held the module off the base.. they couldn't figure out why the modules lasted days to weeks lol..
@@throttlebottle5906 yeah, the new ICM came with the dielectric grease and not the good white goop stuff lol
@@throttlebottle5906 I recently spoke with you on another site...you keep good company.
crazy ole me? I just bounce and ricochet around wildly, sometimes pretending to be dumb(lazy) depends on the time of day and having partaken in tasty adult beverages ;)
hi following you from Mauritius island,nice your tutorials
What would you look at next if the icm module and coil are fine, but car intermittently stalls while driving or stationary?.
depends on what it does after it stalls.
#1 when it stalls does it immediately restart or does it take time?
#2 if it doesn't immediately restart, if you open the throttle a little will it start back up?
#3 if it doesn't restart and it still doesn't restart after opening the throttle, then you need to find out what you are missing (spark, fuel pressure, injection pulse) for me to help any further.
@@ScannerDanner Thanks Paul, It would restart right away until we replaced the coil and ICM, now it takes time. We will run those other checks. FYI it doesn't throw any codes, and at present won't link to our OBD2 scanner. Cheers
Real good video like always. Huge blessing working with your brother. Your mom I bet is very happy about that. 🙏🙏🙏 for your Mom.
Mom loves it! Thanks brother
Paul, great video,as always!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Hey Scanner Danner, We have a 99 Corvette C5 Cranks No Start No spark No Comm No Fuel.
One of the guys in our shop installed a new starter on this car and hooked up a gray/blk wire from the wire loom that did not belong on the positive terminal.
He heard something pop, a little smoke and he quickly cut the wire and the car has not run since.
Relay 42 is for ignition under the hood. With the key on that relay buzzes non stop because every coil is firing continuous like a hi RPM spark all 8 of them. It has no spark or fuel when cranking..
The wipers won't turn off either which might be a separate issue and it has no communication for scan tool.
Is the information your reading at 20:03 only available on a Snap On scanner?
I've been looking everywhere for the function of the 99 Corvette C5 PCM fired ignition.
It has no electronic module or distributor.
Its called DIS (Distributorless Ignition System)
I can find where to buy the parts all day but nothing on function or testing 99 GM's DIS system with no electric module or distributor. Sure I can test for spark but this is different.
We bought the schematics for it, whole package and it has many years worth of Corvette info but has nothing on expected voltages and function at given wires.
Each coil has a body ground and a Positive key on 12V positive. Simple enough
Also has a ground shared with the injectors that comes through INJ1 and INJ2 Fuses coming to the coil on a pink wire.
I just need to be able to understand how the system works before I can understand how all coils are firing continuously like a wire welder with the key on.😀
There is an ECM ground that is blk/wht that says on the diagram "right side of engine above starter". If this is the wire that got connected to battery positive, you cooked the engine computer. I've seen this before on a Cobalt, just watch the first few minutes of this two part series. th-cam.com/video/hJQ6qnhTgdg/w-d-xo.html 45 seconds in, I mention about all of the coils firing, but didn't show it, sorry
@@ScannerDanner Ok thanks for responding man. I know you get more mail than you can possibly answer on daily basis.😀
Brotherly working together....so cool......
For my DIY guys out there, or for those of you in the field doing some side work and need service information. You can buy access to a single car for $20 for a month, just bill this to your customer or make it part of your diagnostic fee
eautorepair.adtrk.biz/?a=10817&c=24&p=r&s1=
1992 s10 2.5 no
Spark done changed cap rotor plugs wires pick up coil control module what could it be im out of i deals
The C5's all have issues with the body grounds and corrosion. It would be nice to see you go through one of those as it pretty much applies to all C5's as they all eventually start getting intermittent electrical issues.
If I see one, you can count on it!
It Is Nice to See yall working together Paul your are Gonna have to Video bomb James A bit more XD!!!
Great analysis Danner thanks.
You seem to be very knowledgeable about these older vehicles. I have a 1988 Corvette I deleted the smog pump and the EGR and the cats set for a little while when I went to start it it idles perfect as soon as you give it gas it falls on its face, popping and strong smell of fuel. Any help would be fantastic.
Popping through the intake? This is classic lean condition systems. And yes lean misfiring can smell like raw fuel. Check fuel pressure first. Second is a resistance measurement of all of your injectors. Shorted injectors are common on this era
@@ScannerDanner I did a home test on the injectors and they all came up at approximately 16.5 waiting to get a fuel pressure gauge to check the fuel pressure brand new cap wires, plugs, temperature sensor and checked the fuel pressure regulator, which was good this car is driving me crazy any help would be much appreciated
I pulled the ECM and reseated the prom
Still doing the exact same thing when you step down on the pedal, it falls on its face call will not get up over 10 miles an hour
I have a 1992 Sonoma 4.3. So I checked for spark and fuel. I’m getting both. I removed the distributor and made sure I’m at TDC and I am. Injectors are spraying good. Replaced the ignition coil as well. I’m getting a code ”12” reading. I looked it up and people are saying it’s a no distributor reference pulse from the ecm. Has anybody else ran into this problem and if so what was the solution? Just change out the ecm?
I have a 1992 corvette. It has no ignition control on the white wire. How do I check the inputs? I have replaced the Optus park itself already.
to be clear there are two white wires, one goes to the ECM and is the control wire for the ICM for when to fire and the second is coil negative. Which one have you tested and how did you test it?
Do you have injector pulse?
Control module's like this Vette turn AC volts from the alternator n2 a digital signal for the PCM correct?
I think you're right. This gives me a headache lol
If you are talking about the ignition control module, that is incorrect on this model.
On bypass systems, the crank sensor produced and AC sign wave that was converted by the ICM and was then sent to the ECM as a digital signal.
If you are talking about something with the alternator circuitry, I can't answer that as I haven't looked at the circuit.
@@ScannerDanner Scanner, my mistake as that's what I was trying 2 remember was the magnetic crank sensor sending out AC sign waves later transferred to the ECM!
Thx 4 responding!
@@matthew53690 Actually I was part right--the crank sensor sends out AC volts to the ECM where it's converted...
@@curlymyhero that is called a by-pass ignition system, where the crank signal is fed to the ICM first, NOT the ECM. Then the ICM converts the AC sign wave into a digital square wave and then sends it to the ECM
really nice...amazing channel
Sr i got no 12v to ignition control Module,,,,,what can i do? My car is a 93 camaro z28
I have the same problem in corvette c7 stingray year 2019 and don't have solution, can you help
This really makes me want to buy a scope... if only I had the money for a pico.
I have a pocket scope listed on my tools page (pinned comment), it is called a uScope and the master kit is around $400. Highly recommended!
I have looked at the the uscope, but is having more than one channel worth it as a dealership tech? Thanks for the reply.
Just found your channel. Wish I had you as my mechanic locally. I have a 92 vette with a code 41 that I got from the dashboard, but I think yours has an OBD2 port, right? Mine is an OBD1, and I don't have a clue what scanner to buy. I checked Amazon for a used one. Didn't know what to buy. Do you have any advice for someone in my shoes?
Code 41 is a cam sensor code? 42 is electronic spark timing. 41 I can't remember
I have an 89 Camaro no spark pick up coil test good on ohms test good I believe 89 has the bypass where the ignition control module inside the distributor controls, spark while cranking and not the computer with that being said the only other issue it could be is that ignition control module I believe as I have power on that ignition coil feed do you have a video doing a no spark with the bypass system like I have?
I'm still old school. Not only do I carry a extra HEI module on my truck. I also have a extra cap & rotor too.
Great looking shop
Looks very easy to work on! Aha great video keep it up danners! 😊
I own a '93 Vette. ICM failure on C4 Corvettes '92-'96 is a common failure.
and pretty much every gm products of that era, same module, same heat sink, just different location. often caused by the junk flat-pack dist cap/rotor and wires killing the coil ;)
@@throttlebottle5906 the LT1, 92-96 Vettes have the good 'ol Optispark distributor mounted to the front of the engine. Looks like an octopus. 1992 and 93 models that have a water pump leak will turn the Opti into green goo. Coolant drips right into it, improvements to seal up the Opti were made in '94. It is driven by a pin turning at the end of the camshaft.
More videos Ozz last one was door handle I think :)
@@weldingjunkie I will be filming and posting more Corvettes vids soon. Thanks! th-cam.com/users/ozzstar
@@ozzstars_cars "anti-spark" is more fitting a term :))
right, big ugly flat cap and other gm's had similar but in standard rear distributor location, they'd always burn through internally and you'll get multiple cylinders firing at once, regardless of the button direction and that's without any green crusties from coolant leak!
seems a good candidate for electric water pumps, but i don't recall if there ever was such a thing for them..
1:02 cool starter, Now I wanna fit that on my 97 Z28.
1. Check for spark at coil wire
2. If no spark check for battery voltage at pins A and D of ICM
3. If no power at A & D then chase pink wire back to fuse 11 for break in wire
4. Check for Ignition control on pin B, use meter or scope and look for .5 - 4.5 Vac or square waves indicating a signal/pulse
5.if no voltage check for continuity from pin B on ICM to black connecter on ECM pin 5, if open or infinite repair wire
6. Check for 5v on A and B of Opti spark harness, and for battery voltage on pin C
7. Fuel pressure should hold 40-50 psi
So are you saying the optic spark pretty much sends the fire to the Ignition coil and the ICM controls it.
"Sends the fire"?
James is too funny I remember in the day people kept points and balance resisters in glove box mopar got to love em lol
can you tell the sequence of inputs before the ecu commands the pulse to the igniter transistor ?
not sure what you mean? The reason I did not bother to check the inputs after finding no spark, was I had an RPM signal during cranking. That is why I focused on coil "control" next
@@ScannerDanner ok thanks for reply . i mean what are the necessary inputs to ecu in general not in this case in order the ecu to proceed with the signal to the igniter? Sorry for my English I am a foreigner
Just the words "Opti Spark" trigger pshycological twitches in anyone that worked in the OBD 1 days; ohhh the horror ;) Good vid as usual
A lot of people talk smack on the all the "new electronic systems" but they have no clue.